IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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A 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


&>. 


^ 


A 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibllographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


n 


n 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  i'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  ie  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainas  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mats,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


The 
tot 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exempiaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4t6  possible  de  se  procure;.  Les  details 
de  cet  exempiaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


|~~|   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 


n    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  \n6gaUt  de  i'impression 

includes  si^pplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Edition  disponible 


The 
posi 
oft 
film 


Ori( 

beg 

the 

sion 

oth( 

first 

sion 

or  il 


r~3  Pages  discoloured,,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~~^  Showthrough/ 

r~~|  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  includes  si^pplementary  material/ 

I      1  Only  edition  available/ 


The 
shal 
TINI 
whii 

INAap 
diffe 
entii 
begi 
right 
requ 
metl 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totaiement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  fiimd  fut  reproduit  grflce  &  la 
g6n6ro8it6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationaie  du  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6td  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim^e  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  la  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

TFii: 


o]{p:g()x   in  ml 


t 


NKKTi  iii;s    dl' 


rHAIHIK   AM)    KOCKV-MOINTAIX    I.IKK 


i:v 


FRANCIS     VARKMW 


KotiMn    KDiTiov,   i;i;visi;i) 


BOSTON 
LITTLE,    BKOWX,   AND    (O.MPAXY 

1S72 


I   /' ''  '^ 


210!) '.  ?; 


J',iilt.n'il  acconliiig  to  Act  (if  Conjircss,  in  the  year  187:2,  l>y 

HIANCIS    I'AllK.MAN, 

III  till-  Oll'ni'  of  tliu   Librarian  of  C'on;;russ   at   Wa>liin!;ton. 


1 
■i 


•I 


CAMBRIDGE: 
•IJK.SS   OK   JOHN    WILSON   AN1>    SON. 


TO 


THK    C'OMItADK    OK    ,\     SCm^k 


II 


^\Nr» 


Tin:       KU  I  KXI)      OF      A       f.  I  F  K  T  I 


ME. 


(n'lXCV    ADAMS    SHAW 


t 


TiiK  -()n-„n  Trail"  is  1],o  fitl,-  nn.lcr  win,,,  lliis 
1'<'«'I<  lli'st  n|i|,r!iiv,|.  It  wiis  iil'Iciwards  cImiipMl  l,y  llio 
l.iil.lislK.r.  aiKl  is  n..u-  ivsl..iv<l  1„  llir  lunu  in  wl.idi  it 
orininally  stood  in  llic  KnickoH.ockcp  Magazine.  As 
the  early  (■ditioiis  wciv  printed  in  my  al.sciicc,  I  did  ii„t 
coi'ivct  the  pi-oofs.  a  proecss  donl.ly  necessary,  sinre  the 
lH)ok  was  written  IVoni  dietatioii.  Tlie  necessary  ec.rrec- 
tions  liave  heen  made  in  the  i)resent  edition. 


a 


k 
t\ 
it 


I'KKFAci-:  'io  Tin:  Forirrii  kdition. 


'T"^!!!']  rnllowiiiu'  >I<('lclirs  lli'st  :i|i|ii':\ii'<l  ill  1^47.  A 
.Niiiiiiiicr's  ii(l\i  iiliircs  (if  Iwii  ndiiIIis  jiisl  out  ol'  cn\- 
IcLl'c  niilillt  well  clluli'^li  I'C  !ill<i\\('(|  [n  lull  ililn  (»lili\iiin, 
were  il  not  lli;it  a  ccrtiiiii  iiitciot  will  ;il\vavs  atiach  jo 
llic  rccoid  of  that  wliicli  has  passed  away  iicNcr  to  ret  iini. 
Tiiis  hook  is  the  I'i'ljcctioii  of  t'oiins  ami  conditioiis  of 
life  which  have  ceased,  in  ureal  niea>iii'e,  to  exist.  It 
luirrors  the  iiiiaLi'e  (»i"  an  in-e\()eahle  past. 

i  icnieniher  that. as  we  rode  hy  the  foot  of  l*ike"s  Teak, 
when  for  a  fortnight  we  met  no  face  ol"  niaii.  my  c.nu- 
jiaiiion  remarked,  in  a  tone  any  thinti'  Imt  com|ihi('ent.  lliaf 
a  time  would  come  wlieii  tliose  jilaiiis  wouM  he  a  i:i'a/.im;' 
coniiti'y,  the  lud'falo  u'i\<'  phu'c  to  tame  cattle,  farm-houses 
l)e  scattereij  aloiiLi'  the  water-courses,  and  w^dscs.  hears, 
and    Indians  he   nnmhei'cil  amouL;'  the  thiiiLis  that    were. 


W 


e  condoiefl 


with  each  other  on  so  uielaiichnly  a  pi 


osoect , 


hut  \\i'  little  thoUiiht  what  the  future  had  in  store.  We 
knew  lliat  there  was  mme  or  less  i^dld  in  the  seauis  of 
Ihose  uutr(»ddeii  mountains:  hut  we  did  not  foresee  that 
it  would  laiild  cities  in  the  waste  and  plant  h(»tels  and 
•I'amhliiui-houscs  amou'^'  the  haunts  of  tlie  iii'izzly  hi'ar. 
A\'e  knew  that  a  few  fanatical  outcasts  were  urojiinu'  their 


VIll 


rmi  v(  i;  to   riii;  loi  urn   liDinoN. 


Wiiy  Mcidss  llic  plains  to  seek  an  asylinn  from  ^rrUilc  |i{'i"- 
MTiition;  Init  \vi*  )riil  not  iiiia'jinc  that  llic  |iuly^'anii)iis 
Iinnlfs  nl"  Moiiiioii  \\(nil(|  I'car  a  swai'niiiiir  .hM'tisalcm  in 
IIic  liosoin  <>l"  solitinlc  il.Ncil'.  We  knew  tliat.  niun'  and 
uioi'c,  vcar  al'icr  www  ilic  ti'ains  (»!'  cnii^ifant  \sau<»nt4 
wiiiild  ci'ccii  in  slow  j)i'i)('('ssi()n  tnuai'ils  I'ai-liai'ons  (>r('U'(>n 
III-  will!  ami  distant  ('alil'ornia  :  Imt  we  did  mil  dicani  how 
( 'nninit'i'cc  and  (lold  uonid  hrcvfl  nations  aIi»i|o' ihc  I'a- 
cilir,  the  discmliant inu;'  screech  oC  the  loconiolive  hreak 
Hie  spell  o|"  weird  niysteiions  nionntains,  wuman's  rights 
in\ade  lh(.'  fastnesses  ol'  the  Arapahoes,  and  despairing; 
saxaLicry,  assaileil  in  iVont  and  rear,  sail  its  scalpdocks 
and  feathers  hefure  tiinniphant  connnon|ilace.  AVe  wei'u 
no  proph«'ts  to  foresee  all  this;  and,  had  we  foreseen  it. 
perhaps  some  pervers(>  reurets  niiuiit  have  tempered  thu 
ardor  of  our   rejoi<,*in,u'. 

The  wild  cavalcade  that  denie<|  witli  me  down  tlio 
ooriii's  of  the  IJlack  Hills,  with  its  paint  and  warphmies, 
llnttcrinii'  tro|»hies  imd  savage  emhroidery,  hows,  arrows, 
lances,  and  shields,  will  never  he  seen  apiin.  Those  who 
lormed  it  have  found  hloody  <inives,  or  a  o'liastliei-  hnrial 
in  tho  maws  of  wolves.  The  Indian  of  to-day,  armed 
with  a  revolver  and  crowned  with  an  old  hat  ;  cased, 
])ossil>ly,  in  tronsers  or  niufdcil  in  a  tawdry  shiit,  is  an 
Indian  still,  hut  an  Indian  shorn  of  the  pictnrescjuenoss 
which  was  his  most  conspicuous  merit. 

'.riie  mountain  trajiper  is  no  more,  and  the  lirini  ro- 
mance of  his  wild,  hard  life  is  a  memory  of  the  past. 

As  regards  the  niotives  which  sent  us  to  the  mountains, 
our  likinii;'  for  them  would  have  snlficed  ;  hut,  in  my  ease, 
another  incentive  was  adiled.     I  went  in  great  measure 


rin:i\(i;  m   ini:  loi  inii   inri'inN. 


IK 


I 


f 


I 


lis  ii  .simlriil.  to  |ii<'|i;irc  \'nv  II  lilrniry  iiiiilci'liikiiit:'  «>f 
which  thr  |il;iii  \\;is  iih't'iidy  Ihi'iuciI,  hiil  whu'h,  IVkiii  Hm' 
lorrt'  III'  iiic\'ii;ili|c  circiiiiMliiiiiTs.  is  still  liiil  half  iici'iiiii- 
|ili>hi'i|.  Ii  \\;is  this  thai  pi'itiu|ilc(|  smnc  iinticnlin'^s  mi 
my  |iait.  w  h';rh,  without  a  lixcd  |iiii|in>r  in  \  icw  .  lui'^ht  he 
i.'lia !•,;:• '(1  wiih  Miiitht'iil  ia>hiir>s.  My  laisiiu'ss  was  oWmt- 
satioii.  ami  I  was  w  iliiii'i  to  pay  draily  lor  (he  o|i|)oitii- 
nits  .if  cxrrci^iii^'  il. 

'|\\o  or  three  years  !iu'<i.  I  made  a  \i>il  to  oiir  liiiide, 
ihehrave  and  1 1  iiediearled  lleiiry  ( 'hatillon,  at  the  town 
of  < ';ir<iii  Jejel .  Hear  St.  Loiiis.  It  Was  more  than  twenty 
Ncars  sinee  we  had  met.  Time  hiiipj  liea\y  on  hl^  iianijs, 
lis  iisnal  with  tiid  moniitain-meii  married  and  eslaMished  ; 
his  hair  was  toucheil  with  'jray.ami  his  face  and  liiiiire 
^  ho  wed  tol\(ns  of  early  har(h  hip  ;  hut  the  manly  simplieiiy 
(tf  his  ejiarailer  was  iinchaii'.ed.  Me  told  me  that  the 
Jiidiaiis  with  whom  1  hail  Ixen  domestiealed.  a  hand  of 
the  haled  Sioiix.  hud  ii"ar!y  all  heeii  killed  in  H.Lihis  with 
llie  while  men. 

'I'he  railhl'nl  |)('shiiii'iers  is.  I  lielieve.  still  livinLion  the 
I'ronlier  <it'  Missomi.  The  hnniii-  I'Mynioiid  perisheil  in 
the  snow  diirin;i'  Kremonrs  disastrous  passage  ol'  the 
moimtains  in   the  winter  of  Is  IS. 


HoHK.v,  Mari'li  :'.lt.  1S72. 


C  0  N  T  E  N  T  S. 


CHAl'TEH 

I.  TiiK  FnoNTiKi:      .     .     .     . 

II.  Bi!p:.\kixg  Tin;  I(  k     . 

III.  Four  Li'.AVKxwoirm      ,     . 

IV.  "JlMI'IXC.    Okk" 

V.  TiiK  "Bio  Hmi;  "     . 

VI.  TllK    Pl.ATTr.    AM)    TIIK    DksK 

VII.  TiiK  IirriAi.o 

VIII.  'rAKIN(;    FlfKNCM    Li:a\k 

IX.  SCKXKS   AT   FoiJT   Laisamik 

X.  Tin;  Wau  PAiniK.s    . 


KT 


XI.    s 


CKNF.S   AT   TJII':   Ca:mi' 


XIT.     1 


ir--Lr;cK 


XIII.     IIrx'i:cr,  Tx 


DIAXS 


XIV.  Tmo    OoiLI.AM.AM    VlM.AGK 

XY.  The  IIintixg  Camp 

XVI.  TiiK  TnAi'i'Kij.s      .     .     .     . 

XVII.  Tjik  Black  IIii.i.s      . 

XVIII.  A  Mouxtaix  IlrxT  . 


XIX.   r 


ASSAGE    ok    TIIK    MorxTAIXJ 


XX.     TiiK  I. 


OXKI.V   JoT'IlXKY 


XXI.     T 


HE  Pl'K15L()   AX1>  Bj.; 


Ni's  Four 


I 

10 

21 


51 

80 
•J7 

nn 

i;!7 

l.")7 

ISO 
212 
2;i7 


2(it 
2S0 

;;oi 


xn 


(ONTKMS, 


XXII.  TiiK  l!()i(;i;,  nii:  \'ni.r\  i  i.i;i; 

XXI  I  I.  IXDI.W    Al.AK.MS 

XXIN'.  Tm;  Ciiasi: 

XXV.  Tin:  I!ii  kaio  (ami- 

XX\'I.  Down    iki:  Akkansas    ,     . 

XXVJI.  'J'jii.:  8j.:i  1  i,K.\ii;.\js   .     .     , 


I'AdR 


I'M-.r. 

# 

.     '.W.d 

1 

.    :;i') 

1 

.    ;L'7 

1 

.    ;i;".7 

.    ;;.-.  [ 

i 

.    :\7-2 

THE   OrtEGOX    TRAIL. 


CHAPTER 


I. 


T  U  K      F  R  0  N  T  r  E  U. 


T  AST  spi'liitr,  1S4G,  was  a  l)iisy  season  in  the  eity  of 
-'— '  St.  Louis.  Not  only  were  eniisirants  from  every 
]iart  of  the  eountry  [tre))arinf>;  for  the  journey  to  Oreu'ou 
and  California,  hut  an  unusual  numlicr  of  traders  wero 
makinu"  ready  thcii-  wau'ons  and  (jutlits  for  Santa  Fe. 
The  hotels  wei'e  crowded,  and  the  gunsmiths  and  sad- 
dlers were  kept  constantly  at  work  in  jd'oviding  arms  and 
ciiuipnients  for  the  ditlerent  parties  of  ti-avellers.  Steam- 
hoats  were  Icavin*^  the  levee  and  passiuir  up  the  Missouri, 
crowded  with  passenji'ers  on  theii-  way  to  the  frontier. 

In  one  of  these,  the  '•  Radnor,'*  since  snajiged  and  lost, 
my  friend  and  relative,  Quincy  Adams  Shaw,  and  mysidf, 
left  St.  Louis  on  the  •28th  of  Aj)ril,  on  a  tour  of  curiosity 
and  amusement  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  hoat  was 
loaded  until  the  water  hroke  alternately  over  her  <iuards. 
Her  ujtper-deck  was  covered  with  large  wagons  of  a  })e- 
culiar  form,  for  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  and  her  hold  was 
cranuned  with  goods  for  the  same  destination.  There 
were  also  the  equipments  and  jirovisions  of  a  party  of 
Oi'cgon  emigrants,  a  hand  of  nudes  and  horses,  piles  of 
saddles  and  harness,  and  a  multitude  of  nondescript 
articles,  indispcnsaljle  on  the  prairies.     Almost  hidden 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL 


in  tliis  modloy  was  a  small  French  cart,  of  tlic  sort  very 
iil»|ii-()|)iiately  called  a  'Mnule-killer/'  heyond  the  iVonliers, 
ami  not  lar  distant  a  tent,  toiretlier  with  a  niisLcllaneons 
assortnuMit  of  lioxes  and  Itarrels.  The  wliole  e(|nii)a,nc 
was  far  IVoni  ])rejM»ssessin<^  in  its  appearance  ;  yet,  snch 
as  it  was,  it  was  destined  to  a  lonti'  and  ardnons  jonrney, 
on  which  the  persevcrintr  readin*  will  acc(jnipany  it. 

The  passenu'ers  on  board  the  "  Radnor  "  corresjxnided 
with  her  IVciuht.  In  her  caljin  were  Santa  Fe  traders, 
gamblers,  specnlators,  and  adventurers  of  various  de- 
scriptions, and  her  steerage  was  crowded  with  Oregon 
emigrants,  "  mountain  men,"  negroes,  and  a  party  of 
Kanzas  Indians,  who  had  l)een  on  a  visit  to  St.  Louis. 

Thus  laden,  the  boat  struggled  upward  for  seven  or 
eight  days  against  the  rapid  current  of  the  Missouri, 
grating  upon  snags,  and  hanging  for  two  or  three  hours 
at  a  time  uj)on  sand-bars.  We  entered  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri  in  a  drizzling  rain,  but  the  weather  soon  became 
clear,  and  showed  distinctly  the  broad  and  turl»id  river, 
with  its  eddies,  its  sand-bars,  its  ragged  islands  and  forest- 
covered  shores.  The  Missouri  is  constantlv  chantiing  its 
course  ;  wearing  away  its  banks  on  one  side,  while  it 
forms  new  ones  on  the  other.  Its  channel  is  continually 
shifting.  Islands  arc  formed,  an<l  then  washed  away: 
and  while  the  old  forests  on  one  side  are  undermined 
and  swept  off,  a  young  growth  sj)rings  u})  from  the  new 
soil  upon  the  other.  With  all  these  changes,  the  water 
is  so  charged  with  mud  and  sand  that,  in  s})ring,  it  is 
])erfectly  oj)a(pie,  and  in  a  i'ew  minutes  deposits  a  sedi- 
ment an  inch  thick  in  the  l)ottoni  of  a  tumbler.  The 
river  was  now  high;  but  when  we  descended  in  the  au- 
tumn it  was  fallen  very  low,  and  all  the  secrets  of  its 
treacherous  shallows  were  exposed  to  view.  It  was  fright- 
ful to  see  the  dead  and  broken  trees,  thick-set  as  a  mili- 


',>* 


I 


THE    FRONTIER. 


rt  very 
jiiliers, 
luucous 

jt,  such 
ourney, 
t. 

spouded 
tradoi'B, 
iuus  do- 
Oi'ogou 
)arty  of 
louis. 
^cvcii  or 
^lissoiui, 
ee  lioui's 
[h  of  the 
1  hecauic 
id  river, 
id  forest- 
iijjing  its 
while  it 
iHiuially 
d  tiway: 
ienuiued 
the  new 
he  water 
|ing,  it  is 
a  scdi- 
r.     The 
the  au- 
ts  of  its 
[is  friiiht- 
,s  a  mili- 


^ 

vi 


iary  ahattis.  firmly  imhedded  in  the  sand,  and  all  jtoiniing 
down  stri'uni,  ready  to  impale  any  nnhaj)py  stcamlinat 
that  at  high  water  shoidd  pass  over  them. 

Ill  fivi!  or  six  days  we  l>egan  to  see  signs  of  the  great 
western  movcmt'nt  that  was  taking  plaee.  Parlies  of 
emigrants,  with  their  tents  and  wagons,  were  encamped 
on  open  spots  near  the  hank,  on  their  way  to  the  connnon 
reiitlezvons  at  independence.  On  a  rainy  day,  near  sun- 
set, we  reached  the  landing  of  this  place,  which  is  some 
miles  from  the  river,  on  the  extreme  frontier  of  Missouri. 
The  scene  was  characteristic,  for  here  were  represented 
at  one  view  the  most  remarkahle  features  of  this  wild  and 
cnternrisinir    region.       On  the  muddv  shore  stood  some 

111  », 

thirty  or  forty  dark  slavish-looking  Spaniards,  gazing 
stunidiv  out  IVom  hcneath  their  broad  liats,  Tliev  were 
attached  to  one  of  the  Santa  Fc  companies,  whose  wagons 
were  crowded  t«)gether  on  the  hanks  above.  In  the  midst 
of  these,  crouching  over  a  smoulderirg  (ire,  was  a  group 
of  Tuflians,  ])elonging  to  a  remote  Mexican  trilte.  One  or 
two  French  hunters  from  the  mountains,  with  tbeir  long 
hair  and  buckskin  dresses,  were  looking  at  the  boat;  and 
seated  on  a  log  close  at  hand  were  three  men,  with  rifles 
lying  across  their  knees.  The  foremost  of  these,  a  tnll, 
strong  figure,  with  a  clear  ))lue  eye  and  an  open,  intelli- 
gent face,  might  very  well  re})resent  that  race  of  restless 
and  intrepid  pioneers  whose  axes  and  rifles  have  opened 
a  i)ath  from  the  Alleghanies  to  the  western  prairi(>s.  lie 
was  on  his  way  to  Oregon,  probably  a  more  congenial 
field  to  him  than  anv  that  now  remained  on  this  side  of 
the  great  plains. 

Early  on  the  next  morning  we  reached  Kanzas.  about 
five  hundred  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  Here 
we  landed,  and  leaving  our  equipments  in  charge  of  Colo- 
nel Chick,  whose  log-house  was  the  suljstitnte  for  a  tavern, 


TlIK    OREGON    TRAIL. 


we  set  out  Lii  ii  wiiuon  for  West])()i't,  where  we  hopod  to 
procure  iiiiilcs  jiiid  Iwjrses  lor  the  journoy. 

Jt  Wiis  ii  rcuiiirkal)!}'  IVcsli  and  hcniitirul  ^fay  nioriiini;'. 
The  woods,  ihroiiuh  which  the  iuiscral)le  road  C(jii(hictcd 
us,  were  liuhled  l»y  the  hriylit  sunsliiue  and  eidivened  hy 
a  nndtitude  of  hirds.  We  overtook  on  Ihe  way  our  kite 
leUow-t  r;i\fllers,  tlie  Kan/.as  Indians,  who,  adorned  witli 
all  their  linery,  wei'e  i)roceeding'  homeward  at  a  round 
))ace  ;  iind  whiitever  they  nuuht  have  seemed  on  hoard 
the  boat,  they  made  a  very  striking'  and  piclures(iue  feat- 
ure in  the  lorest  landscape. 

Westp(U't  was  lull  of  Indians,  wliosc  little  shaujiy 
ponies  were  tied  hy  dozens  alon<^  the  houses  and  fences. 
Sa(!s  iiud  Foxes,  with  shaved  heads  and  painted  faces, 
Shawanoes  and  Delawares,  flntterinti'  in  calico  frocks  and 
tnrhiuis,  Wyandots  dressed  like  white  men,  and  a  few 
-wretched  Kan/.as  wrapj)ed  in  old  blankets,  were  strollini^ 
al)out  the  streets,  or  lounging  in  and  out  of  the  slio])s  and 
liouses. 

As  1  stood  at  the  door  of  the  tavern,  I  saw  a  remark- 
able-looking personage  coming  up  the  ;strcet.  lie  had  a 
ruddy  face,  garnished  with  the  stumj)s  of  a  bristly  red 
beard  and  moustache;  on  one  side  of  liis  head  was  a 
round  cap  with  a  knob  at  the  top,  such  as  Heottish  labor- 
ers sometimes  wear;  his  coat  was  of  a  nondosoriiit  form, 
and  made  of  a  gray  Scotch  plaid,  with  th.e  fringes  lumg- 
ing  all  about  it ;  he  wore  trousers  of  coarse  homcs|)un, 
and  hob-nailed  shoes ;  and  to  eomjJete  his  e(|uipment,  a 
little  l)Iack  pipe  was  stuck  in  one  corner  of  his  mouth.     In 

this  curious  attire,  I   recognized  Ca{)tain  C ,  of  the 

IJritish  army,  who,  with  his  brother,  and  Mr.  R ,  an 

English  gentleman,  was  bound  on  a  hunting  expedition 
across  the  continent.  I  had  seen  the  ca})tain  and  liis 
companions  at  St.  Louis.     They  had  now  been  for  some 


I 


THE    FRONTIER. 


1  to 


)e( 


(I'IHII'J:. 

(lucteil 
10(1  by 
iir  late 
■d  with 
ruunil 
Ixjard 
le  Iciit- 

shn<jiiy 
reuces. 
I  laces, 
jks  and 
[  a  lew 
.ti'oUini^ 
(jj)s  and 

■eiiiark- 
|e  luid  a 
tly  red 
was  a 
lal  )()!•- 
|t  Ibnu, 
liang- 
liesjdui, 
pieiit,  a 
Ih.     In 
of  the 
•,  an 
Dcdition 
hid  his 
|r  some 


time  at  \Vcst|ioi't.  niakiiijr  projiarations  for  tlicir  deitarfure, 
and  waitiii'jf  I'm-  a  rciiiloi-eeiiieiit,  since  tht'V  wcic  too  few 
in  nunilier  to  attciiiitt  it  alone.  They  iniuht,  it  is  true, 
have  joined  some  of  tlie  parties  of  einii:rants  who  wer(> 
on  the  ]»oint  of  sdtinu'  out  I'or  Orcu'on  and  CaJilornia  ; 
lint  tliey  iirofcsscd  Li'rcat  disinclination  to  ha\('  any  con- 
nection witli  the  ''  Kentucky  Icllows." 

The  captain  now  ui-u'e(l  it  upon  us.  that  we  sliould  join 
forces  and  jirocccd  to  the  inonntains  in  company.  Jh-cI- 
inu'  no  trreater  iiartialitv  for  the  societv  of  the  cmiu'i'ants 
tiiaii  they  did.  \\<'  tliouuht  the  aiM'aimvnient  a  uood  one, 
and  consented  to  it.  Our  future  fellow-travellers  had 
installed  themselves  in  a  little  lou'-house,  where  we  found 
them  surrounded  hy  saddles,  harness,  tinns.  jdstols,  tele- 
s('ojies,  knives,  and  in  short  theii'  complete  appointments 
for  the  prairie.  K .  who  had  a  taste  for  natursd  his- 
tory, sat  at  a  tiihle  stuHinir  a  woodpecker;  the  hi'other  of 
the  captain,  who  was  an  Irishman,  was  splieinu"  a  trail-rope 
on  the  floor.  The  caj)tain  j)ointed  out.  with  much  com- 
jdaccncy,  the  different  articles  of  their  outfit.  "  You  see," 
said  he,  ''  that  we  are  all  old  travellers.  J  am  convinced 
that  no  jiarty  ever  went  upon  the  j)i'airie  hettei-  pi'ovided." 
'i'he  hunter  whom  thev  had  emploved,  a  surlv-lookin<r 
Canadian,  named  Sorel,  and  their  muleteer,  an  American 
r.uHian  from  St.  liouis,  were  loumiinu'  ahout  the  huildiny:. 
In  a  little  Ion-  stable  close  at  hand  were  their  horses  and 
mules,  selected  with  excellent  judiiinent  by  the'  ca|)tain. 

We  left  them  to  coni])lete  their  arranu'cments.  while  we 
]iushed  our  own  to  all  convenient  s|)eed.  The  emigrants, 
for  whom  our  IVieiids  professed  such  contempt,  were 
encamped  on  the  prairie  alxnit  eig'ht  or  ten  miles  distant, 
to  the  number  (d'  a  thousand  or  more,  and  new  parties 
were  constantly  passin<r  out  from  Independence  to  join 
them.     They  were  in  great  confusion,  holding  meetings, 


THE    ORLGON    TRAIL. 


piiss'mti'  ivsolulioiiH,  luid  drawing'  up  rcgiilalioiis,  hut 
uiiahlc  to  unite  iu  the  cinjico  of  leaders  io  conduct  tlicm 
across  the  praiiio.  Beinj^  at  leisure  one  day,  I  rode  over 
to  Independence.  'JMie  town  was  crowded.  A  uiullitude 
of  siiops  had  spruni;'  up  to  furnish  the  enii,i;rants  and 
Santa  Fe  traders  witli  necessaries  for  their  Journey;  and 
tliere  was  an  incessant  hannnering  and  hanging  IVoni  a 
dozen  hhicksmiths'  sheds,  wliere  the  lu-avy  wagons  wei'e 
being  repaired,  and  the  horses  and  oxen  sliod.  The 
streets  were  thronged  with  men,  horses,  and  nudes. 
Whih)  1  was  in  the  town,  a  train  of  emigrant  wagons 
from  Illinois  passed  through,  to  Join  the  camp  on  the 
prairie,  and  stopjicd  in  the  j)rincipal  stitct.  \  nudti- 
tude  of  healthy  children's  faces  were  peeping  out  fnjm 
under  the  covers  of  the  wagons.  ilero  and  there  a 
huxom  damsel  was  seated  on  liorschack,  holding  over  her 
sunliurnt  face  an  old  umbrella  or  a  parasol,  once  gaudy 
enough,  liut  now  miserably  faded.  The  men,  very  sober- 
looking  countrymen,  stood  al)out  their  oxen  ;  and  as  I 
passed  1  noticed  three  old  fellows,  who,  with  tlieir  long 
whi|is  in  their  hands,  were  zealously  discussing  the  doc- 
trine of  regeneration.  The  emigrants,  however,  are  not 
all  of  this  stamp.  Among  them  are  some  of  the  vilest 
outcasts  in  the  country.  1  have  often  perplexed  my.-'.df 
to  divine  the  various  motives  that  give  impulse  to  this 
migration;  but  whatever  they  may  be,  whether  an  insane 
hope  of  a  better  condition  in  life,  or  a  desire  of  sliuking 
of!"  restraints  of  law  and  society,  or  mere  restlessness, 
certain  it  is,  that  nudtitudes  bitterly  repent  the  Journey, 
and,  after  they  have  reached  the  land  of  promise,  are 
happy  enough  to  escape  from  it. 

In  the  course  of  seven  or  eight  days  we  had  l)rouglit 
our  preparations  nearly  to  a  close.  Meanwhile  our  friends 
had  completed  theirs,  and,  becoming  tired  of  Westport, 


THE    rilONTIKR. 


>;,  but 
ilu'iu 
3  over 
Ititudc 
:.s  and 
' ;  and 
Toiu  a 
8  wore 
The 
mules. 

on  the 
nmlti- 
it  IVoni 
:heie   a 
ver  \wv 
<i'audy 
,'  soher- 
id  as  I 
r  lon;j; 
le   doc- 
ire  not 
3  vilest 
uiv- 'If 
to  iliis 
insane 
;liaking 
!ssiiess, 
itiu'ney, 
Ise,   arc 

|)i'ought 
ilVieuds 
bstport, 


they  told  us  tliat  tlicy  would  set  out  in  advance,  and  wait 
at  the  cross iuij,'  of  the  Kanzas  till  we  should  conic  up. 

Accordingly  It ,  and  the  muleteer  went  I'orward  with 

the  wagon  ami  tent,  while  the  captain  and  his  brother, 
together  with  Sorcl.  iind  a  trap[>('r  named  Hoisverd,  who 
had  joined  them,  Iblluwed  with  the  band  of  horses.  The 
commencement  of  the  journey  was  ominous,  for  the  cai> 
tain  was  scarcely  a  mile  from  Westport,  ri<ling  along  in 
state  at  the  head  oi  his  party,  leading  his  intended  buflido 
liorse  by  a  rope,  when  a  tremendous  thunder-storm  came 
on  and  drenched  them  all  to  the  skin.    They  hurried  on  to 

reach  the  place,  about  seven  miles  olf,  where  11 ,  was 

to  have  had  the  camp  in  leadiness  to  receive  them.  But 
this  prudent  person,  when  he  saw  the  storm  ajtproaching, 
liail  selected  a  sheltered  glade  in  the  woods  where  he 
pitehed  his  tent,  and  was  sipjiing  a  condbrtable  cup  of 
collee  while  the  captain  galloped  for  miles  beyond  through 
the  rain  to  look  for  him.  At  length  the  storm  cleared 
away,  and  the  shari)-eycd  trapper  succeeded  in  discovering 

his  tent  ;  U ,  had  by  this  time  finishet^  his  coffee,  and 

was  seated  on  a  bulfalo-robc  suKjking  his  [)i[)0.  The  cap- 
tain was  one  of  the  most  easy-temjiered  men  in  existence, 
so  he  bore  his  ill-luck  with  great  composure,  shared  the 
dregs  of  the  colfee  with  his  brother,  and  lay  down  to 
sleep  in  his  wet  clothes. 

We  ourselves  had  our  share  of  the  deluge.  Wc  were 
leading  a  pair  of  mules  to  Kanzas  when  the  storm  broke. 
Such  shai'p  and  incessant  flashes  of  lightning,  such  stnii- 
iiing  and  continuous  thunder  1  had  never  known  befoi'e. 
The  woods  were  com[>letely  (jl)scured  by  the  diagonal 
sheets  of  rain  that  fell  with  a  heavy  roar,  and  rose  in 
s})ray  from  the  ground,  and  the  streams  swelled  so  rapidly 
that  we  could  hardly  ford  them.  At  length,  looming 
through  the  rain,  wc  saw  the  log-house  of  Colonel  Chick, 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


!  ' 


who  received  us  willi  his  usual  l)hiiul  liospitnlity  ;  while 
Ills  wile,  wh(j,  thouj^ii  u  little  soured  and  stil'li'Mcd  by  a 
lon<^  course  of  cunj|Hueetiuj;s,  was  not  licliind  hiui  in 
good-will,  supplied  us  with  the  means  oC  hetlerini;'  our 
drenched  and  hedraji'uled  condition.  Tlic!  storm  clearinuj 
away  at  about  sunset  opened  a  nohlt;  prosjiect  iVom  the 
porch  of  the  colonel's  house  which  stands  upon  a  hi<;h 
liill.  The  sun  streamed  iVom  the  breaking'  clouds  upon 
the  swift  an<l  angry  Missouri,  and  on  the  vast  expanse  of 
forest  that  stretched  from  its  hanks  back  to  the  distant 
bluffs. 

Returning  on  the  next  day  to  Westport  we  received  a 
message  from  the  captain,  who  had  ridden  back  to  deliver 
it  in  person,  but  finding  that  we  were  in  Kanzas,  had 
intrusted  it  witli  an  acipiaiidance  of  his  named  Vogel, 
who  kept  a  small  grocery  and  liquor  shoj).  Wliiskey,  by 
the  way,  circulates  more  freely  in  Westport  than  is  alto- 
gether safe  in  a  place  where  every  man  carries  a  loaded 
j)istol  in  his  ]»ocket.  As  we  i)assed  tins  establishment 
we  saw  Vogel's  broad  (Jerman  face  thrust  from  his  door. 
He  said  he  bad  something  to  tell  us,  and  invited  us  to 
take  a  dram.  Neithei'  his  li(iuor  nor  his  message  were 
very   jjalatablo.     Tlie    captain   had  returned  to  give  us 

notice  that  R ,  who  assumed  the  direction  of  his  party, 

lia*^^  determined  u})on  another  route  from  that  agreed 
uf)on  between  us;  and  instead  of  taking  the  course  of 
the  traders,  had  resolved  to  jtass  northward  by  Fort 
Leavenworth,  and  follow  the  i)ath  nuu'ked  out  by  the 
dragoons  in  their  exi»edition  of  last  summer.  To  adopt 
such  a  ])lau  without  consulting  us,  we  looked  upon  as  a 
high-handed  })roceeding ;  but  sui)])ressing  our  dissatisfac- 
tion as  well  as  we  could,  we  made  uj)  our  minds  to  join 
them  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  where  they  were  to  wait 
for  us. 


'? 


:.fi 
.■i 
I 


f 


I 


Tin:   rnoNrir.R. 


9 


iiuent 
door, 
us  to 
wore 
0  us 
»arty, 
mrced 
•se  of 
Fort 
)y  the 
adopt 
11  as  a 
tislac- 


1 


I 


Arcoi'dinj/ly,  otir  preparation  l)('iii<r  now  complete,  wc 
nttempl('(l  one  line  luoriiiii^-  to  licgiii  our  joiiriicy.  'J'lie 
first  step  was  an  unl'ortuiiate  one.  No  sooner  were  onr 
animals  put  in  liai'ness  tliaii  the  slial't-miilc  reared  and 
phiuucd,  Iturst  ropes  and  straps,  and  nearly  tlunu'  tlie  cart 
into  the  Missouri.  Finding;  lier  wholly  nneontrollaldt',  wc 
exelianjicd  iirr  loi-  anotlier,  witli  wiiieli  we  were  Inrnislicd 
liy  our  friend  Mr.  l>oone,  of  \Vesti»ort,  a  ji:i'andson  of 
Daniel  {{ooiic,  the  pioneer.  This  foretaste  of  praii'ie 
experience  was  very  soon  followed  by  another.  West  port 
was  scarcely  out  of  si^ht  when  we  eneonntered  a  dcej) 
muddy  jiidly,  <jf  a  sj)ecies  that  afterward  became  but  too, 
familiar  to  us,  and  here  for  the  space  of  an  hour  or  more 
the  cart  stuck  fast. 


CllAI'TKIl  ir. 


imi;AKiN(;  tiik  k  i:. 


T^.MMlMllNiJ  IVoiu  th(!  luiid-holcs  of  WcstpoH,  we  |mr- 
-*— -^  siicil  our  wiiy  I'oi'  souh!  limu  uloiij^'  tlio  iiiirrow  truck, 
in  <li(>  du'ckorcd  suiisliinc  juid  slmdow  of  tho  woods,  till 
at  loiij^tli,  issiiiiiii;  into  the  broad  li};lit,  vvc;  It'll  lu^hind  us 
tlic  fartl)cst  outskirts  of  the  j^Tciit  forest,  tliat  once  spread 
from  tii(!  western  plains  to  the  short;  of  tiie  Atlantic. 
Looking'  over  an  intervening  belt  of  bushes,  we  saw 
the  ureen,  ocean-like  exi)ansc  of  jtrairie,  stretcliing  swell 
beyond  swell  to  the  hoi'izon. 

It  was  a  mild,  calm  spring  day;  a  day  when  one  is 
moiH;  disposed  to  nuising  and  reverie  than  to  action,  and 
the  softest  part;  of  his  nature  is  apt  to  gain  the  up|)er 
hand.  1  rode  in  advance  of  the  party,  as  wo  i)assed 
througii  tlie  bushes,  and,  as  a  nook  of  green  grass 
ottered  a  strong  temptation,  I  dismounted  and  lay  down 
there.  All  the  trees  and  saplings  were  in  flower,  or  ))ud- 
ding  into  fresh  leaf;  the  red  clusters  of  the  maple-blos- 
soms and  the  rich  flowers  of  the  Indian  a})plo  were  there 
in  pi'ofusion  ;  and  1  was  half  inclined  to  regret  leaving 
behind  the  land  of  gardens,  for  the  rude  and  stern  scenes 
of  the  prairie  and  the  mountains. 

Meanwhile  the  party  came  in  sight  out  of  the  l)ushes. 
Foremost  rode  IJeniy  Chatillon,  our  guide  and  hunter, 
a  flne  athletic  figure,  mounted  on  a  hardy  gray  Wyandot 
l)ony.     He  wore  a  white  blanket-coat,  a  broad  hat  of  felt, 


I 


JUlF.AKlNft     TIIK    ICE. 


11 


I  SCO  lies 


luoccusins,  ami  trow.srrs  of  dt'or-skiii,  orniimciitrtl  along 
tiju  scams  with  rows  of  loiiu^  IVin^^cs.  His  i<nit»!  was  slm-k 
ill  Ills  Itclt  :  liis  hullL't-jioucli  ami  jtowdci-lioni  iimiu  at  his 
side,  and  iiis  rille  lay  hd'ori;  iiiiii,  iTsliiiu-  aiiaiiist  {\\v  hi^h 
]inmm*'l  *)['  his  siddlo,  whicdi,  lik«;  all  his  ('(|ui|)im.'iits,  had 
sct'ii  hard  s(  rvicc,  and  was  much  the  worse  lor  wear. 
Shaw  I'ttUoucd  close,  mounted  on  a  little  sornd  horse, 
and  leading"  a  lar^cM-  animal  i)y  a  rope.  His  outfit,  which 
resenililcd  mine,  had  liceii  provided  with  a  view  to  iiso 
rather  than  ornament.  It  consisted  of  a  plain,  hlack 
Spanish  saddle,  with  holstci's  of  heavy  pistols,  a  hlanket 
rolled  up  l)eliiml,and  the  trail-rope  attached  to  his  horse's 
neck  han^in,i;"  coiled  in  front,  lie  carried  a  doul>le-har- 
relled  smooth-hore,  whik;  1  had  a  rille  of  some  fil'teeii 
j)ounds  weiiiht.  At  that  tinu;  our  attire,  thou^di  far  from 
elejiJint,  hore  some  marks  of  civilization,  and  ollered  a 
very  favorahlu  contrast  to  the  inimitahlc  shahhiness  of 
our  appeaiance  on  the  return  journey.  A  I'cd  llannel 
shirt,  iielled  around  the  waist  like  a  frock,  then  consti- 
tuted our  upper  ji'arment ;  moccasins  had  supplanted  our 
failinji'  hoots  ;  and  the  remaining  essential  [)ortion  of  our 
attiie  consiste(l  of  an  extraordinary  article,  manufactured 
hy  a  squaw  out  of  smoked  huckskin.  Our  muleteer,  Dos- 
hiuriers,  hrought  up  the  rear  with  his  cart,  wading'  ankle- 
deep  in  the  mud,  alternately  pulVmg  at  his  pipe,  and  ejac- 
ulating in  his  prairie  patois,  '"  iSacrc  cnfiint  de  ijarce 
as  one  of  the  mules  woidd   seem  to  r(!Coil  Ijcfore  s( 


r" 


)mo 


ahyss  of  unusual  ])i'ofundity.  The  cart  was  of  the  kind 
that  one  may  see  i)y  scores  around  the  niarket-[)lace  at 
Quel)ec,  and  had  a  white  covering  to  protect  the  articles 
within.  These  were  our  j»rovisions  and  a  tent,  with  am- 
munition, hlankets,  and  presents  for  the  Indians. 

We  were  in  all  four  men  with  eight  animals  ;  for  he- 
sides  the  spare  horses  led  by  Shaw  and  myself,  an  uddi- 


12 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


tioiial  mule  was  driven  along  with  us  as  a  reserve  in  case 
of  accident. 

After  this  sunimintr  up  of  our  forces,  it  may  not  he 
amiss  to  glance  at  the  cliaracters  of  the  two  men  who 
accomi)anied  us. 

Dcshiuriers  v.'as  a  Canadian,  with  all  the  characteristics 
of  the  true  Jean  Bai)tiste.  Neither  I'atiuue,  exposure,  nor 
hard  labor  could  ever  impair  his  cheerfulness  and  gayety, 
or  his  politeness  to  his  h'Hov/i'ois  ;  and  when  night  came, 
he  would  sit  down  by  the  fu'c,  smoke  his  jiipe,  and  tell 
stories  with  the  utmost  contentmcut.  The  jjrairie  was 
Ids  clement.  Henry  Chatillon  was  of  a  diflerent  stamp. 
When  we  were  .at  St.  Louis,  several  uenllemen  of  the 
Fur  Company  had  kindly  oflered  to  procure  for  us  a 
hunter  and  guide  suited  for  our  purposes,  and  on  coming 
one  afternoon  to  the  office,  we  found  there  a  tall  and 
exceedingly  well-dressed  man,  with  a  face  so  open  and 
frank  that  it  attracted  our  notice  at  once.  We  were 
surjirised  at  'oeing  told  that  it  was  he  who  wished  to  guide 
us  to  the  mountains.  He  was  born  in  a  little  French 
town  near  St.  Louis,  and  from  the  age  of  (ifteen  years  had 
been  constantly  in  the  neighl)orhood  of  the  Ilocky  Moun- 
tains, cm))loyed  for  the  most  part  by  the  company,  to  sup- 
l)ly  their  forts  with  bufflilo  meat.  As  a  hunter,  he  had 
but  one  rival  in  the  whole  region,  a  man  named  Simoneau, 
with  whom,  to  the  honor  of  both  of  them,  he  was  on 
terms  of  the  closest  friendship.  He  had  arrived  at  St. 
Louis  the  day  before,  from  the  mountains,  where  he  had 
been  for  four  years ;  and  he  now  asked  only  to  go  and 
spend  a  day  with  his  mother,  before  setting  out  on  an- 
other expedition.  His  age  was  about  thirty  ;  he  was  six 
feet  high,  and  very  powerfully  and  gracefully  moulded. 
The  prairies  had  been  his  school ;  he  could  neither  read 
nor  write,  but  he  had  a  natural  refmement  and  delicacy 


BBEAKING    THE    ICE. 


13 


of  mind,  sucli  as  is  rare  even  in  wonicii.  Ilis  manly  face 
Avas  a  niin-or  of  upi'i<,ditnoss,  simplicity,  and  kindness  of 
lioart :  lie  lind.  moreover,  a  keen  perception  of  cliaractci", 
and  a  tact  tliat  would  i>reserve  liim  from  flagrant  error  in 
anv  society,  ircnry  had  not  the  restless  energy  of  an 
Anglo-Aiucrican.  He  was  content  to  take  things  as  ho 
found  thcni  ;  and  his  chief  fault  arose  from  an  excess  of 
easv  ucncrosity.  not  conducive  to  tliriving  in  the  world. 
Yet  it  was  commonly  remarked  of  him,  that  whatever 
he  might  choose  to  do  with  what  helonged  to  himself,  the 
projierty  of  others  was  always  safe  in  his  hands.  His 
bravery  was  as  mucli  celebrated  in  the  mountains  as  his 
skill  in  hunting  ;  I)ut  it  is  characteristic  of  him  that 
in  a  couutiy  where  the  rifle  is  the  chief  arbiter  between 
man  and  man,  he  was  very  seldom  involved  in  (piar- 
rels.  Once  or  twice,  indeed,  his  rpiiet  good  nature  had 
been  mistaken  and  })resumed  upon,  but  the  consequences 
of  the  error  were  such,  that  no  one  was  ever  known  to 
repeat  it.  Xo  better  evidence  of  the  intrejjidity  of  his 
temper  c(juld  be  asked,  than  the  common  report  that  he 
had  killed  more  than  thirty  grizzly  bears.  He  was  a 
proof  of  what  unaided  nature  will  sometimes  do.  1  have 
never,  in  the  city  or  in  the  wilderness,  met  a  better  man 
than  my  true-hearted  friend,  Henry  Chatillon. 

We  were  soon  free  of  the  woods  and  bushes,  and  fairly 
upon  the  broad  ])rairie.  Now  anil  then  a  i^hawanoe 
passed  us,  riding  his  little  shaggy  pony  at  a  "  lo[)e  ;"  his 
calico  shirt,  his  gaudy  sash,  and  the  gay  handkerchief  bound 
around  his  snaky  hair,  fluttering  in  the  wind.  At  noon 
we  stopped  to  rest  not  far  from  a  little  creek,  re[)lete  with 
frogs  and  young  turtles.  There  had  i)een  an  Indian 
encampment  at  the  place,  and  the  framework  of  the 
lodges  still  remained,  enabling  ns  very  easily  to  gain  a 
shelter  from  the  sun,  by  merely  spreading  one  or  two 


14 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


blankets  over  tlicm.  Tliua  shaded,  wo  sat  upon  onr  sad- 
dles, and  Shaw  lor  tlio  fh-st  time  liuhted  his  favorite 
Indian  ))i))e  ;  wliile  Deslauriers  was  squatted  over  a  hot 
he<l  ol"  coals,  shading  his  eyes  witli  one  liand,  and  liold- 
inn'  a  little  stick  in  the  otlier,  with  which  he  retiulaled  the 
hissinu^  contents  of  the  frviuir-pan.  The  horses  were 
fnrned  to  feed  among  the  scattered  bushes  of  a  low  oozy 
meadow.  A  drowsy  spring-like  sultriness  pervaded  the 
air,  and  the  voices  of  ten  thousand  young  frogs  and 
insects,  just  awakened  into  life,  rose  in  varied  chorus 
from  the  creek  and  the  meadows. 

Scarcely  were  we  seated  when  a  visitor  aj)proached. 
This  was  an  old  Kanzas  Indian  ;  a  man  of  distinction,  if 
one  might  judge  from  his  dress.  His  liead  was  sliaved 
and  painted  red,  and  from  the  tuft  of  hair  remaining  on 
the  crown  dangled  several  eagle's  feathers,  and  the  tails 
of  two  or  three  rattlesnakes.  His  cheeks,  too,  were 
dau))ed  with  vermilion ;  liis  ears  were  adorned  with 
green  glass  pendants;  a  collar  of  grizzly  bears'  claws 
surrounded  liis  neck,  and  several  large  necklaces  of  wam- 
pum hung  on  his  breast.  Having  shaken  us  by  the  hand 
with  a  grunt  of  salutation,  the  old  man,  dro])ping  his  red 
blanket  from  his  shoulders,  sat  down  cross-legged  on  the 
ground.  We  offered  liim  a  cup  of  sweetened  water,  at 
which  he  ejaculated  "  Good  !  "  and  was  beginning  to  tell 
us  how  great  a  man  he  was,  and  how  many  Pawnees  he 
had  killed,  when  suddenly  a  motley  concourse  appeared 
wading  across  the  creek  towards  us.  They  filed  i)ast  in 
rapid  succession,  men,  women  and  children  :  some  were 
on  horseback,  some  on  foot,  but  all  were  alike  squalid 
and  wretched.  Old  squaws,  mounted  astride  of  shaggy, 
meagre  little  })onics,  Avitli  perluips  one  or  two  snake-eyed 
children  seated  behind  them,  clinging  to  their  tattered 
blankets ;  tall  lank  young  men  on  foot,  with  bows  and 


BREAKING    THE    ICE. 


15 


m 


-I 


arrows  in  tlioir  liands  ;  and  oirls  wljosc  native  ndiness 
not  all  the  cliarnis  of  glass  heads  and  scarlet  cloth  could 
disunisc,  made  up  the  procession  ;  although  here  and 
there  was  a  man  who,  like  our  visitor,  seemed  to  hold 
some  rank  in  this  rcspectahle  community.  They  were 
the  dregs  of  the  Ivanzas  nation,  nvIio,  while  their  hetters 
were  gone  to  hunt  the  bulTalo,  had  left  the  village  on  a 
begging  ox))e(lition  to  Westjjort. 

When  this  raganmnin  horde  liad  passed,  we  cauglit 
our  horses,  saddled,  harnessed,  and  resumed  our  journey. 
Fordintr  the  creek,  the  low  roofs  of  a  munher  <jf  rude 
buildings  aj)pearcd,  rising  from  a  cluster  of  groves  and 
woods  on  the  left ;  and  riding  up  through  a  long  lane, 
amid  a  profusion  of  wild  roses  and  early  spring  flowers, 
we  found  the  log-church  and  school-houses  belonging  to 
the  ^h'thodist  .Shawanoc  Mission.  The  Indians  were  on 
the  point  of  gathering  to  a  religious  meeting.  Some 
scores  of  them,  tall  men  in  half-civilized  dress,  were 
seated  on  wooden  benches  under  the  trees  ;  while  their 
liorses  were  tied  to  the  sheds  and  fences.  Their  chief, 
Parks,  a  remarkably  large  and  athletic  man,  had  just 
arrived  from  Westport,  where  he  owns  a  trading  estab- 
lishment. Beside  this,  he  has  a  large  farm  and  a  con- 
siderable munber  of  slaves.  Indeed  the  Shawanoes  have 
made  greater  jirogrcss  in  agriculture  than  any  other  ti-il)C 
on  the  Missouri  frontier;  and  both  in  ai)pearance  and  in 
character  form  a  marked  contrast  to  our  late  acquaintance, 
the  Kanzas. 

A  few  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  the  ])anks  of  the  river 
Kanzas.  Traversing  the  woods  that  lined  it,  and  plough- 
ing through  the  deep  sand,  we  encami)ed  not  far  fi-om  the 
bank,  at  the  Lower  Delaware  crossing.  Our  tent  was 
erected  for  the  first  time,  on  a  meadow  close  to  the  woods, 
and  the  camp  preparations  being  complete,  we  began  to 


16 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


think  of  supper.  An  old  Delaware  woman,  of  some  three 
hundred  pounds  weit^iit,  sat  in  the  porch  of  a  little  lo^- 
house,  close  to  the  water,  and  a  very  ])retly  lialf-hrced 
girl  was  enga^'cil,  under  her  superintendence,  in  feeding 
a  large  flock  of  turkeys  that  were  fluttering  and  goblding 
about  the  door.  Hut  no  offers  of  money,  or  even  of  tobacco, 
could  induce  her  to  part  with  one  of  her  favorites:  so  I 
took  my  rifle,  to  see  if  the  woods  or  the  river  could  fur- 
nish us  any  thing.  A  nndtitude  of  quails  were  ))lain- 
tively  whistling  in  the  meadows  ;  but  nothing  appr()})riato 
to  the  rifle  was  to  be  seen,  exce])t  three  buzzards,  seated 
on  the  spectral  linil)S  of  an  old  dead  sycamore,  that  thrust 
itself  out  over  the  river  from  the  dense  sunny  wall  of  fresh 
foliage.  Their  xvAv  heads  were  drawn  down  between 
their  shoulders,  and  they  seemed  to  luxuriate  in  the  soft 
sunshine  that  was  ])ouring  from  the  west.  As  they  offered 
no  epicurean  temptations,  I  refrained  from  disturbing 
their  enjoyment ;  but  contented  myself  with  admiring  the 
calm  beauty  of  the  sunset,  —  for  the  river,  eddying  swiftly 
in  deep  purple  shadows  between  the  impending  woods, 
formed  a  wild  but  traniiuillizing  scene. 

When  I  returned  to  the  camp,  1  found  Sliaw  and  an 
old  Indian  seated  on  the  ground  in  close  conference,  pass- 
ing the  pipe  between  them.  The  old  man  was  explain- 
ing that  he  loved  the  whites,  and  had  an  especial  partiality 
for  tobacco.  Deslauriers  was  arranging  upon  the  ground 
our  service  of  tin  cups  and  plates;  and  as  other  viands 
were  not  to  l)e  had,  he  set  before  us  a  repast  of  biscuit 
and  bacon,  and  a  large  pot  of  coffee.  Unsheathing  our 
knives,  we  attacked  it,  disposed  of  the  greater  part, 
and  tossed  the  residue  to  the  Indian.  Meanwhile  our 
horses,  now  hobbled  for  the  first  time,  stood  among  tlie 
trees,  witli  their  fore-legs  tied  together,  in  great  disgust 
and  astonishment.     They  seemed  by  no  means  to  relish 


I 


BRKAKING    THE    ICE. 


17 


l<j;  uiir 

part, 

IG  our 

g  tlie 
lisg'ust 

Irelish 


this   foretaste  of  wliat   awaited   tlieui.     Mine,  in    |)artic- 

iilar,  had   coiiccivcMl  a  mortal  aversion  to  tho   ]>rairie  Ulb. 

One  ut'    them,   eliristcned    IFiMKh-ick,    an    animal   whoso 

strength   and   liardihood   were  his  only  merits,  and   who 

p^         yielded  to  nothing  hut  the  eogont  aruuments  of  t!ie  whij), 

M         looked   toward  us  with  an   indignant  eountenancc,  as  if 

-^         he  meclitated   avenging  liis  wrongs  with  a  kiek.       The 

other,  Pontiae,  a  good  horse,  though  of  plebeian  lineage, 

stood  with  his  lieiid  di'ooping  and  his  mane  hanging  al)out 

his  eves,  with  the    grieved   and   sulky  air  of  a   luhlierly 

hov  sent  olf   to  sehool.     IJis   forchodinu's  were   hut  too 

I         just;  for  when  I  last  heard  I'rom  him.  he  was  under  tho 

i|        lash  of  an  Ogillallah  brave,  on  a  war  i)arty  against  the 

■:M        Crtnvs. 

As  it  grew  dark  and  the  voiees  of  the  wliippoorwills 
suceeeded  the  whistle  of  the  (piails,  we  removed  our 
saddles  to  the  tent  to  serve  as  j)illows,  spread  our  blankets 
upon  the  ground,  and  prepared  to  bivouac  for  the  lirst 
time  that  season.  Each  man  selected  the  ])lace  in  the 
tent  which  he  was  to  occujjy  for  the  journey.  To  Deslau- 
riers,  however,  was  assigned  the  cart  into  whieli  he  could 
crec})  in  wet  weather,  and  find  a  much  better  shelter  than 
his  hoiir(/f'oi..s  enjoyed  in  the  tent. 

The  river  Kanzas  at  this  point  forms  the  boundary  line 
between  the  country  of  the  Shawanoes  and  that  of  the 
Dclawares.  We  crossed  it  on  the  following  dav,  rafting 
over  our  horses  and  equipments  with  much  ditliculty,  and 
^  unlading  our  cart  in  order  to  nudvc  our  way  up  the  steep 
ascent  on  the  farther  bank.  It  was  a  Sunday  morning ; 
warm,  tranquil  and  l)right;  and  a  perfect  stillness  reigned 
over  the  rough  inclosurcs  and  neglected  fields  of  tho 
Dclawares,  except  the  ceaseless  hum  and  chirruping  of 
myriads  of  insects.  Now  and  then  an  Indian  rode  past 
on  his  way  to  the  meeting-house,  or,  through  the  dilapi- 


18 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


dated  entrance  of  some  shattered  lo,:^-lionso,  an  old  woman 
niitilit  1)(3  discerned  enjoying-  all  the  Inxnry  of  idleness. 
Tliere  was  no  vdlaue  hell,  lor  the  Delawares  juive  none  ; 
and  yet  uj)()n  that  forlorn  and  rnde  settlement  was  the 
same  spirit  of  Sahl)alh  repose  and  tran(inillity  as  in  some 
New  Knjiland  viUajie  anionic  the  monntains  of  New 
Hampshire,  or  the  Vermont  woods. 

A  military  road  led  from  this  point  to  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, and  for  many  miles  the  farms  and  cahins  of  the 
Delawares  were  scattered  at  short  intervals  on  either 
hand.  The  little  rnde  structnres  of  lo<::s  erected  usually 
on  the  horders  of  a  tract  of  woods  made  a  })icturesque 
feature  in  the  landscape.  But  the  scenery  needed  no 
foreign  aid.  Nature  had  done  enough  for  it ;  and  the 
alternation  of  rich  green  prairies  and  groves  that  stood  in 
clusters,  or  lined  ihe  hanks  of  the  numerous  little  streams, 
had  all  the  softened  and  polished  heauty  of  a  region  that 
has  been  for  centuries  under  the  hand  of  man.  At  that 
early  season,  too,  it  was  in  the  height  of  its  freshness. 
The  woods  were  Hushed  with  the  red  buds  of  the  maple  ; 
there  were  l're(iuent  flowering  shrubs  uidvuinvn  in  tlie 
east;  aiul  the  green  swells  of  the  prairie  were  thickly 
studded  with  blossoms. 

Encamping. near  a  spring,  by  the  side  of  a  hill,  we 
resumed  our  journey  in  the  morning,  and  early  in  the 
afternoon  were  within  a  few  miles  of  Fort  Leavenworth. 
Tiie  road  crossed  a  stream  densely  bordered  with  ti'ces, 
and  running  in  the  bottom  of  a  deep  woody  hollow.  We 
wei'c  about  to  descend  into  it  when  a  wild  and  confused 
procession  appeared,  })assing  through  the  water  below, 
and  coming  up  the  steep  ascent  towards  us.  We  stop})ed 
to  let  them  pass.  They  were  Delawares,  just  returned 
from  a  hunting  expedition.  All,  both  men  and  „omen, 
were  mounted  on  horseback,  and  drove  along  with  them 


'3 


BREAKING    THE    ICE. 


19 


woman 
lU'iiess. 
'  none ; 
A'us  the 
in  somo 
jl'    New 

Lcavcu- 
s  of  the 
II  either 
I  usually 
turesque 
eded   no 
and  the 
stood  in 
streams, 
Li'ion  that 
At  that 
cshness. 
;  maple ; 
1   in  tlie 
thiekly 

hill,  we 
ly  in  the 
leuworth. 
[th  trees, 
|)W.     We 

confused 

r  helow, 
stop})ed 

returned 
,;omen, 

ith  them 


-J^^. 


a  considcraltlo  nuinhor  of  pack-mules,  hidcn  with  the  furs 
thcv  liiid  taken,  to.ui'ther  with  the  hufliiln-nilH-s.  kettles, 
and  other  articles  of  tlieir  travellinu'  e(|uipnient.  which, 
ns  Weil  as  tlu'ir  ('l(ithin<j;  and  their  weapons,  had  a  worn 
and  diniiy  l(jok.  as  if  thoy  liad  seen  hard  service  of  late. 
At  the  rear  of  the  party  was  an  old  man,  who,  as  he 
came  up.  stop]ied  his  horse  to  sj»eak  to  us,  lie  rode  a 
touiih  shairiry  ])ony,  with  mane  aud  tail  well  knotted  with 
burs,  and  a  rusty  Spanish  l)it  in  its  month,  to  which.  l»y 
^vay  of  reins,  was  attached  a  striui:?  of  raw  hide.  J  lis 
saddle,  rohljed  ))rol>al)ly  from  a  Mexican,  had  no  covering::, 
being'  merely  a  tree  of  the  Spanish  form,  with  a  piece  of 
jirizzly  liear's  skin  laid  over  it,  a  pair  of  rude  wooden  stir- 
ruj)S  attached,  and,  in  the  aljsencc  of  girth,  a  thong  of 
hide  passing  around  the  horse's  belly.  The  rider's  dark 
features  aud  keen  snaky  eye  were  uiuMpiivocally  Indian. 
He  wore  a  buckskin  frock,  which,  like  his  IVinged  leg- 
gings, was  well  })olished  and  blackened  liy  grease  and 
long  service,  and  an  old  handkerchief  was  lied  around 
liis  head.  Resting  on  the  saddle  before  him  lay  his  ritle, 
a  weapon  in  the  use  of  which  the  Delawares  are  skilful, 
tliough,  from  its  weight,  the  distant  i)rairie  Indians  arq 
too  lazy  to  carry  it. 

"  Who's  your  chief?  "  he  immediately  iiupiired. 

Henry  Chatillon  i)ointed  to  us.  The  old  Delaware 
fixed  his  eyes  intently  upon  us  for  a  moment,  and  then 
senteutiouslv  remarked,  — 

"  Xo  good  !  Too  young  !  "  With  this  flattering  com- 
ment he  left  us  and  rode  after  his  people. 

This  tril)e,  the  Delawares,  once  the  ])eacetul  allies  of 
William  Penn,the  tributaries  of  the  conquering  Iroquois, 
are  now  the  most  adventnrous  and  dreaded  warriors  upon 
the  ]n-airies.  They  make  war  upon  remote  tribes,  the 
very  names  of  which  were  unknown  to  their  fathers  in 


20 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I      II 

!i         'I  i 


tlicii'  ancient  scats  in  Pennsylvania,  and  tlioy  pusli  these 
new  (|nanvls  with  true  Indian  rancor,  sending  out  their 
war-parties  as  far  as  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  into  tlie 
Mexican  territories.  Their  neij^hbors  and  Cornier  conleil- 
crates.  the  Shawanoes,  who  are  toleruhlc  farmers,  are  in 
a  prospercMis  condition;  hut  tlie  Delawares  dwindb-  every 
year,  from  tlie  number  of  men  lost  in  tlieir  AvarUke  expe- 
ditions. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  party  we  saw,  stretching-  on  the 
right,  the  forests  tiiat  follow  the  course  of  the  Missouri, 
and  the  deep  woody  channel  through  which  at  this  point 
it  runs.  At  a  distance  in  front  were  the  white  Ijarracks 
of  Fort  lieaveinvorth,  just  visible  through  the  trees  u\n)n 
an  eniincncc  above  a  bend  of  the  river.  A  wide  green 
meadow,  as  level  as  a  lake,  lay  between  us  and  the  Mis- 
souri, and  upon  this,  close  to  a  line  of  trees  that  bordered 
a  little  brook,  stood  the  tent  of  the  Captain  and  his  com- 
panions, with  their  horses  feeding  around  it ;  but  they 
themselves  were  invisible.  Wright,  their  muleteer,  was 
there,  seated  on  the  tongue  of  the  wagon,  repairing  his 
harness.  Boisverd  stood  cleaning  his  ritle  at  the  door  of 
the  tent,  and  8orel  lounged  idly  about.  On  closer  exam- 
ination, however,  we  discovered  the  Ca])taiirs  brother. 
Jack,  sitting  in  the  tent,  at  his  old  occupation  of  splicing 
trail-ro])es.  He  welcomed  us  in  his  broad  Irish  Ijrogue, 
and  said  that  his  brother  was  fishing  ii?  the  river,  and 
R gone  to  the  garrison.  They  returned  before  sun- 
set. Meanwhile  we  pitched  our  own  tent  not  far  off,  and 
after  sujtper  a  council  was  held,  in  which  it  was  resolved 
to  remain  one  day  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  on  the  next 
to  hid  a  final  adieu  to  the  frontier,  or,  in  the  })hraseology 
of  the  region,  to  "jump  off."  Our  deliberations  were 
conducted  liy  the  ruddy  light  from  a  distant  swell  of  the 
prairie,  where  the  long  dry  grass  of  last  summer  was  on 
fire. 


tlicso 


their 

1 

to  the 

4 

•onied- 

arc  in 

A 

^  every 

1 

e  expe- 

1 

on  the 

■■'-V. 

issoiiri, 

1 

s  point 

V 

arracks 

3S  upon 

^iS^^^ 

3  green 
lie  Mis- 

ordered 

■'!■ 

lis  com- 

)ut  they 

'cr,  was 

•inir  his 

door  of 

J 

r  exam- 

»rothcr, 

splicing 

^JH 

1)  rogue, 
er,  and 

M 

vc  sun- 

M 

off,  and 

1 

csolvcd 

■■/. 

he  next 

"x 

scology 

1 

IS  were 

I  of  the 

was  on 

CHAPTER  III. 


FORT    LHAVKNWOUTII. 


/^X  tlie  next  morning  wc  rode  to  Fort  Ijeavenworth. 
^^  Colonel,  now  General  Kearney,  to  whom  1  had  had 
the  honor  of  an  introduction  when  at  St.  Louis,  was  Just 
arrived,  and  received  us  at  his  quarters  with  the  courtesy 
haliitual  to  him.  Fort  Leavenworth  is  in  fact  no  fort, 
heing  without  defensive  works,  except  two  hlocl<-houscs. 
No  rumors  of  war  had  as  yet  disturhed  its  tran(|uillity. 
In  the  S(piarc  grassy  area,  surrounded  l)y  l)arracks  and 
the  (pmrters  of  the  officers,  the  men  were  passing  and 
repassing,  or  lounging  among  the  trees  ;  although  not 
many  weeks  afterwards  it  presented  a  different  scene  ; 
for  here  the  offscourings  of  the  frontier  were  congregated 
for  the  expedition  against  Santa  Fe. 

Passing  through  the  garrison,  we  rode  toward  the 
Kickapoo  village,  five  or  six  miles  l)eyond.  The  j)ath,  a 
nil  her  duhious  and  uncertain  one,  led  us  alontr  the  ridue 
of  liigh  bluffs  that  liorder  the  Missouri  ;  and,  by  looking 
1(1  the  right  or  to  the  left,  we  could  enjoy  a  strange  con- 
trast of  scenery.  On  the  loft  stretched  the  jtrairie,  rising 
into  swells  and  undulations,  thickly  s}»rinkled  with  groves, 
or  gracefully  ex])an(ling  into  wide  grassy  l)asins,  of  miles 
in  extent ;  while  its  curvatures,  swelling  against  the  hori- 
zon, were  often  surmounted  bv  lines  of  sunnv  woods ;  a 
scene  to  which  the  freshness  of  the  season  and  the  |)eculiar 
mellowness  of  the  atmosphere  gave  additional  softness. 


22 


IML    OIIKGUN    TllAIL. 


«:ii^ 


Below  us,  oil  the  rij^lit,  was  a  tract  of  ra<rged  and  hrokcu 
woods.  We  could  look  down  on  the  tops  of  the  trees, 
some  livinfj;  and  some  dead  ;  some  erect,  others  leaning 
at  every  auule,  and  others  piled  in  masses  together  hy 
tli(,'  passauc  of  a  hurricane.  Beyond  their  extreme  verge 
the  tnrhid  waters  of  the  Missouri  were  discernihlo 
through  the  boughs,  rollin«5  powerhdly  along-  at  the  foot 
of  tlie  wooilv  declivities  on  its  farther  l)ank. 

'I'hc  path  soon  after  led  inland  ;  and,  as  we  crossed  an 
open  meadow,  we  saw  a  cluster  of  liuildin<^-s  on  a  rising 
ground  before  us,  with  a  crowd  of  people  surroimdiiig 
them.  They  were  the  storehouse,  cottage,  and  stal>les  of 
the  Kick;n)oo  trader's  establishment.  Just  at  that  mo- 
ment, as  it  chanced,  he  was  beset  with  half  the  Indiana 
of  the  settlement.  They  had  tied  their  wretched,  neg- 
lected little  ponies  by  dozens  along  the  fences  and  out- 
liouses,  and  were  either  lounging  alunit  the  place,  or 
crowding  into  the  trading-house.  Here  were  faces  of 
various  colors:  red,  green,  white,  and  lilack,  curiously 
intermingled  and  disposed  over  the  visage  in  a  variety  of 
l)atterns.  Calico  shirts,  red  and  blue  blankets,  in'ass 
ear-rings,  wiunpum  necklaces,  appeared  in  profusion. 
The  trader  was  a  blue-eyed,  open-faced  man,  who  neither 
in  his  manners  nor  his  ajipearance  betrayed  any  of  the 
rouglmess  of  the  frontier  ;  though  just  at  present  he  was 
ol)liged  to  keep  a  lynx  eye  on  his  customers,  wlio,  men 
and  women,  were  climbing  on  hi:^  counter,  and  seating 
themselves  amoiig  his  boxes  and  bales. 

The  village  itself  was  not  far  oif,  and  sufficiently  illus- 
trated the  condition  of  its  unfortunate  and  self-abandoned 
occujjants.  Fancy  to  yourself  a  little  swift  stream,  work- 
ing its  devious  way  down  a  woody  valley ;  sometimes 
wholly  hidden  under  logs  and  fallen  trees,  sometimes 
spreading  into  a  broad,  clear  pool ;  and  on  its  banks,  in 


li 


FORT   LEAVEN WOllTir. 


23 


little  nooks  cleared  nwny  nmoii*^  llio  \\vvh,  ininintiiiv  lo^- 
lu)uses,iii  utter  ruin  and  nc^^h^ct.  A  laltyrintli  of  luirrow, 
oltstrtK'tcil  |)aths  eomiectiMl  these  haltitatioiiH  one  witli  aii- 
otlier.  Soinetinu's  we  met  a  stray  calf,  a  piir,  or  a  pouy, 
lielonjjfinL!:  to  some  of  tlie  villativrs,  wlio  usually  lay  in 
the  sun  in  front  of  their  dwellinu's,  and  lookeil  on  us  with 
cold,  suspicious  eyes  as  we  apiiroached.  Farthei*  on,  in 
place  of  the  lou-huts  of  the  Kickajioos,  we  found  tho 
jnikici  lodii'es  of  their  neiu'hhors,  the  I'ottawattanues, 
whose  condition  sttenied  no  hetter  than  theii's. 

rirowini;'  tiivd  at  last,  and  exhausted  liy  the  excessive 
heat  and  sultriness  of  the  day,  we  returned  to  our  friend, 
the  trader.  V*\  this  time  the  crowd  around  him  had  dis- 
]iersed,  and  left  him  at  leisure.  Tie  invited  us  \o  his 
cottau'e,  a  little  white-and-irreen  huildinu',  in  the  style  of 
tho  old  French  settlements:  and  ushered  us  into  a  neat, 
well-fuiMiisheil  room.  The  hlinds  were;  (dosed,  and  tho 
heat  and  uhue  of  the  sun  excluded  ;  the  room  was  as 
cool  as  a  cavern.  It  was  neatly  carjjcted,  too,  ami  fur- 
nished in  a  manner  that  we  hardly  expected  on  the  fron- 
tier. The  sofas,  chairs,  tal)les,  and  a  well-dlled  liookcaso, 
would  not  have  disu'raccd  an  eastern  city;  thouuh  thero 
■\vcre  one  or  two  little  tokens  that  indicated  the  rather 
(piestionalile  civilization  of  the  rcii'ion.  A  ])istol,  loaded 
and  capi»ed,  lay  on  the  mantel-piece  ;  and  through  tho 
iihiss  of  the  hookcase,  ]icei)ini2;  ahovc  the  works  of  John 
Milton,  glittered  the  handle  of  a  very  mischievous-lookin<5 
knife. 

Our  host  went  out,  and  returned  with  iced  water,  glasses, 
and  a  hottle  of  excellent  claret,  —  a  refreshment  most  wcl  ■ 
come  in  the  extreme  heat  of  the  day  ;  and  soon  aftei- 
appeared  a  merry, laughing  woman,  who  must  have  l)e(Mi, 
a  year  or  two  before,  a  very  rich  specimen  of  ci-(M)1(^ 
beauty.     Slie  came  to  say  that  lunch  was  ready  in  the 


24 


THE    ORKOON    TRAIL. 


noxt  room.  Our  Imstosa  ovidcntly  livod  on  tlio  snnny 
Hiilc  »r  lili',  ami  d'ouhlcil  licrsclf  with  none  (»r  its  cni'cs. 
She  Silt  (loNMi  iind  cntcftiiiniMl  ns  while  we  \vcr(!  !il  tiililo 
will)  iin('('(|(»l('s  of  li.sliin,ii-|)!irti('s,  IVolics,  and  the  ollicci'M 
at  llu;  I'ort.  Takini;  Icavi;  at  IcnuHi  of  tlio  hospital »l(! 
trader  and  his  friend.  \V(!  rod(^  hack  !<•  the  uari'ison. 

Shaw  passed  on  to  the  eainp,  while  I  icniained  to  call 
Upon  (Jolonel  Kearney.  I  fonnd  him  still  at  talile.  'I'herc 
Bat  onr  IViend  the  Captain,  in  the  same  remarkalile  haldli- 
ments  in  which  wo  Haw  him  at  Westiiort  ;  the  Mack  niiio. 


pip 


however,  heinjr  for  the  present  laid  aside,  lie  daniiled 
his  little  ca|»  in  his  hand,  ami  talked  of  Hteeple-eJiases, 
touchinji;  oceasioiiidly   upon    his    antiei|»ated    exploits    in 


bufiido-hnntinu'. 


T\ 


M're,  too,  was 


It- 


somewhat  ]noro 


cU'gantly  attired.  Foi-  the  last  tmie,  we  taste(l  the  luxu- 
ries of  eivili/.at  ion,  and  drank  adieus  to  it  in  wine  jrood 
cnouii'h  to  make  us  re<i'ret  the  leave-lakin^^  Then,  mount- 
ing", W(!  rode  toucther  to  the  camp,  where  every  thing  was 
in  readiness  for  departui-e  on  the  morrow. 


CHAITKU   IV. 


"  .1  i:  M  p  r  N  (i    0  V  F\" 


O 


rn  trnnsaflant 


til 


mill 


cs. 


Ic  ('()in|»iiiii()ns  worn  well  C(iiri|»|i('(l  for 
Tlicy  Imd  u  \Vii,L''<)n  di-iiwii  l>y  six 
11(1  criUMnKMl  with  provisions  lor  six  months, 
besides  iimmiinit ion  (>non.u'h  lor  a  rcuimcnt ;  s|»!ii'('  rifles 
nnd  ro\vlinL^-]>i('('('s,  ropes  and  harness,  |»ei'sonnl  liii<ji:im"e, 
and  a  niiseellaneons  asscM'tment  of  articdes,  which  pro- 
dueeil  infinite  emliari'assment.  Thev  had  also  deeoratcMl 
their  jiersons  with  t(deseo|ics  and  portaMe  coinjtasses, 
and  eai-ried  Mnulish  doiilile-harivlled  rifles  of  sixteen 
to  the  jtoiind  calihre,  sliing  to  their  saddles  in  dragoon 
fashion. 

By  snni'ise  on  the  twenty-third   of  May  we   had   break- 
fasted ;  the  tents  were  levelled,  the  animals  saddled  and 


harnessed, 


and 


all 


was   prepared 


Arancr   (Imn 


A 


u'et 


uj)!  "  cried  Deslanriers  to  his  mnlc.  "W light,  our  friends' 
mnleteer,  after  some  swearing  and  lashing,  got  his  insnl)- 
ordinate  train  in  motion,  and  then  the  whole  j)arty  filed 
from  the  ground.  Thus  wc  hade  a  long  adieu  to  hed  and 
hoard,  and  the  principles  of  Hlackstone's  Commentaries. 
The  day  was  a  most  aiisj»ieions  one  ;  and  yet  Shaw  and  1 
felt  certain  misgivings,  which  in  the  se(]nel  ]»roved  l)nt 
too  well  founded.  We  had  just  learned  tlial  though 
R had  taken  it  upon  him  to  adopt  this  course  with- 
out consulting  us,  not  a  single  man  in  the  ])nrty  knew  the 
way  ;  and  the  absurdity  of  the  proceeding  soon  became 


26 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


mnnifcst.  His  })laii  was  to  strike  tlic  trail  of  several 
coniiKUilos  of  dragoons,  who  last  sniuincr  had  made  au 
expedition  under  Colonel  Kearney  to  Fort  Laramie,  and 
l»y  tliis  means  to  reach  the  grand  trail  of  the  Oregon  emi- 
grants up  the  riattc. 

We  rode  lor  an  hour  or  two,  when  a  familiar  cluster  of 
huildings  ai)p('ared  on  a  little  hill.  ''Hallo!"  shouted 
the  Kickapoo  trader  from  over  his  fence,  "  where  are  you 
going?"  A  few  rather  emphatic  exclamations  might 
have  been  heard  among  us,  when  we  found  that  we  had 
gone  miles  out  of  our  way,  and  were  not  advaPiCed  an 
inch  toward  the  Rocky  Mountains.  So  we  turned  in  the 
direction  the  trader  indicated  ;  and  with  the  sun  for  a 
guide,  ])egan  to  trace  a  "  bee-line  "  across  the  ])rairies. 
Wc  struggled  through  copses  and  lines  of  wood ;  we 
waded  brooks  and  ])ools  of  water;  we  traversed  pi-airies 
as  green  as  an  emerald,  cx|)anding  before  us  mile  after 
mile,  wider  and  more  wild  than  the  wastes  Mazep[)a 
rode  over. 

"  Man  nor  bnito, 
Nor  (lint  of  lioof,  nor  print  of  foot, 
Lay  in  tiio  wild  luxuriant  soil ; 
No  siji'n  of  travel  ;  none  of  toil ; 
Tlio  very  air  was  mute." 

Riding  in  advance,  as  we  passed  over  one  of  these 
great  plains,  we  looked  hack  and  saw  the  line  of  scattered 
horsemen  stretching  for  a  mile  or  more;  and,  far  in  the 
rear,  against  the  liorizon,  the  white  wagons  creeping 
slowly  along.  "•  Here  we  are  at  last !  "  shouted  the  Cap- 
tain. And,  in  truth,  we  had  struck  upon  the  traces  of  a 
large  body  of  horse.  We  turned  joyfully  and  followed 
this  new  course,  with  tempers  somewhat  improved  ;  and 
towards  sunset  encamj)ed  on  a  liigh  swell  of  tlie  ])rairie, 
at  the  foot  of  which  a  lazy  stream  soaked  along  through 
clumps  of  rank  grass.     It  was  getting  dark.     "We  turned 


"  JUMriMG    OFF." 


27 


the  horses  loose  to  feed.  "  Drive  down  llie  tent-pickets 
hard,"  said  lleniy  ChatiUon,  "■  it  is  going  to  blow."  AVc 
did  so,  and  secured  tlie  tent  as  well  as  we  could  ;  lor  the 
sky  had  changed  totally,  and  a  I'ri'sh  damp  smell  in  the 
wind  warned  us  that  a  stormy  night  was  likely  to  succeed 
the  hot,  clear  day.  The  })i'airie  also  wore  a  new  aspect, 
and  its  vast  swells  had  grown  Itlack  and  sombre  imder 
the  shadow  of  the  clouds.  The  thunder  soon  began  to 
growl  at  a  distance.  Picketing  and  hobbling  the  horses 
among  the  rich  grass  at  the  foot  of  the  sloj)e  where  we 
encamped,  we  gained  a  shelter  just  as  the  rain  began  to 
fall  ;  and  sat  at  the  opening  of  the  tent,  watching  the 
proceedings  of  the  Captain.  In  defiance  of  the  rain,  ho 
was  stalking  among  the  horses,  wrapped  in  an  old  Scotch 
plaid.  An  extreme  solicitude  tormented  him,  lest  some 
of  his  favorites  should  escape,  or  some  accident  should 
befall  them  ;  and  he  cast  an  anxious  eve  towards  three 
wolves  who  were  sneaking  along  over  the  dreary  surface 
of  the  plain,  as  if  he  dreaded  some  hostile  demonstration 
on  their  jiart. 

On  the  next  morning  we  had  gone  but  a  mile  or  two 
'Alien  we  came  to  an  extensive  l^elt  of  woods,  through  the 
midst  of  which  ran  a  stream,  wide,  <lecp,  and  of  an 
appearance  particularly  nniddy  and  treacherous.  Deslau- 
riers  was  in  advance  with  his  cart;  he  jerked  his  pipe 
from  ins  mouth,  iashed  his  nudes,  anil  poured  forth  a 
volley  of  Canadian  ejaculations.  In  plunged  the  cart, 
but  midway  it  stuck  fast.  He  leai)ed  out  knee-deep  in 
water,  and,  by  dint  of  saercs  and  a  vigorous  ajiplication 
of  the  whip,  urged  the  nudes  out  of  the  slough.  Then 
approached  the  long  team  and  heavy  wagon  of  our  friends; 
but  it  paused  on  the  brink. 

"Now  my  advice  is," — began  the  Captain,  who  had 
been  anxiously  contem})lating  the  nniddy  gulf. 


:^i<i; 

'!i; 


28 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


'Ir    ' 
"4  I, 


If, 


"  Drive  on  !  "  cried  R- 


iii( 


'1     !;rl' 


tf; 


But  Wright,  the  miileleur,  apparently  liad  not  as  yet 
decided  the  point  in  his  own  mind  ;  and  he  sat  still  in  his 
fecat,  on  one  of  the  shaft-mules,  whistling  in  a  low  con- 
teni|)lative  strain  to  himself. 

"  My  advice  is,"  resumed  the  Captain,  "  that  we  nn- 
load ;  for  I'll  bet  any  man  five  pounds  that  if  we  try  to 
go  through  we  shall  stick  fast." 

"  By  tlie  powers,  we  shall  stick  fast!"  echoed  Jack,  the 
Captain's  brother,  shaking  his  large  head  with  an  air  of 
firm  conviction. 

"  Drive  on  !  drive  on ! "  cried  R ,  petulantly. 

"  Well,"  observed  the  Captain,  turning  to  us  as  we  sat 
looking  on,  much  edified  by  this  by-play  among  our  con- 
federates, "  I  can  only  give  my  advice,  and  if  people  won't 
be  reasonable,  why  they  won't,  that's  all !  " 

Meanwhile  Wri'ht  had  apparently  made  up  his  mind  ; 
for  he  suddenly  began  to  shout  fcrth  a  volley  of  oaths 
and  curses,  that,  com})arcd  with  the  French  imprecations 
of  Deslauriers,  sounded  like  the  roaring  of  heavy  cannon 
after  the  popping  and  sputtering  of  a  bunch  of  Chinese 
crackers.  At  the  same  time  he  discharged  a  shower  of 
blows  upon  his  mules,  Avho  hastily  dived  into  the  mud, 
and  drew  the  wagon  lumberinu'  after  them.  For  ;i  mo- 
ment  the  issue  was  doubtful.  Wright  writhed  about  in 
liis  saddle,  and  swore  and  lashed  like  a  madman  ;  Ijut  who 
can  count  on  a  team  of  half-broken  nudes  ?  At  the  most 
critical  point,  when  all  should  have  been  harmony  and 
combined  etl[brt,  the  perverse  brutes  fell  into  disorder, 
and  huddled  together  in  confusion  on  the  farther  bank. 
There  was  the  wagon  up  to  the  hub  in  mud,  and  visibly 
settling  every  instant.  There  was  notliing  for  it  but  to 
nnload  ;  then  to  dig  away  the  mud  from  before  the  wheels 
with  a  spade,  and  lay  a  causeway  of  bushes  and  branches. 


1  . 


"  JUMPING    OFF.' 


29 


This  agivoalilc  labor  acL'oiiiplisliod,  the  wagon  at  length 
emerged;  hut  as  some  interrui)ti()n  of  this  sort  oeeurred 
at  least  Ibui"  or  (ivc  times  a  day  for  a  fortnight,  our 
[)rogress  towards  the  Platte  was  not  without  its  obsta- 
eles. 

We  travelled  six  or  seven  miles  farther,  and  "nooned" 
near  a  brook.  On  the  j)oint  of  resuming  our  journey, 
when  the  horses  were  all  driven  down  to  water,  my  home- 
sick charger,  Pontiac,  nuule  a  sud'len  leap  across,  and  set 
oft'  at  a  round  trot  for  the  settlements.  I  mounted  my 
remaining  horse  and  started  in  pursuit.  Making  a  cir- 
cuit, 1  headed  the  runaway,  hoping  to  drive  him  back  to 
canii),  but  he  instantly  broke  into  a  gallop,  made  a  wide 
tour  on  the  prairie,  and  got  by  me  again.  I  tried  this 
plan  rei)eatedly  with  the  same  result ;  Pontiac  was  evi- 
dently disgusted  with  tlie  prairie,  so  I  abandoned  it  and 
tried  another,  trotting  along  gently  behind  him,  in  hopes 
that  1  might  qul"tly  get  near  enough  to  seize  the  trail- 
rope  which  was  fastened  to  his  neck,  and  dragged  about 
a  dozen  feet  l)ehind  him.  The  chase  grew  interesting. 
For  mile  after  mile  I  folbjwed  the  rascal  with  tb.e  utmost 
care  not  to  alarm  him,  and  gradually  gjt  nearer,  until  at 
length  old  Ilendrick's  nose  was  fairly  Ijrushed  by  the 
whisking  tail  of  the  unsuspecting  Pontiac.  Without 
drawing  rein  I  slid  softly  to  the  ground ;  but  my  long 
heavy  rifle  encumbered  me,  and  the  low  sound  it  made  in 
striiving  the  horn  of  the  saddle  startled  him,  he  pricked 
up  his  ears  and  sprang  otf  at  a  run.  "  My  friend," 
thought  1,  remounting,  '•  do  that  again  and  I  will  shoot 
you!" 

Fort  Leavenworth  was  about  forty  miles  distant,  and 
thither  I  determined  to  follow  him.  1  made  up  my  mind 
to  spend  a  solitary  and  supperless  night,  and  then  set  out 
again  in  the  morning.     One  hope,  however,  remained. 


I'  tl' 


30 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


:> ' 


:i  !'  i: 


I'' 
J-'i        Si' 


if 


Tlie  creek  where  the  wnL^'on  had  stuck  was  just  heforc 
us;  rontiiic  niiulit  1)0  tliirsty  with  his  run  and  stop  there 
to  (h'ink.  I  kc{)t  as  near  him  as  possible,  taking  every 
precaution  not  to  alarm  him  again  ;  and  the  residt  proved 
as  I  had  hojied,  for  he  walked  deliberately  among  the 
trees  and  stooped  down  to  the  water.  I  alighted,  dragged 
old  Ilendrick  tln'ough  the  mud,  and  with  a  feeling  of 
infinite  satisfaction  picked  up  the  slimy  trail-ro))e,  and 
twisted  it  three  times  round  my  hand.  "  Now  let  me  see 
you  get  away  again !  "  I  thought,  as  I  remounted.  But 
Pontiac  was  exceedingly  reluctant  to  turn  back  ;  Ilen- 
drick, too,  who  had  evidently  flattered  himself  with  vain 
hopes,  sliowed  the  utmost  repugnance,  and  grumhled  in  a 
manner  ])eculiar  to  himself  at  being  compelled  to  face 
about.  A  smart  cut  of  the  whip  restored  his  cheerful- 
ness ;  and,  dragging  the  recovered  truant  behind,  I  set  out 
in  search  of  the  camp.  An  hour  or  two  elapsed,  when, 
near  sunset,  I  saw  the  tents,  standing  on  a  swell  of  the 
prairie,  beyond  a  line  of  woods,  while  the  bands  of  horses 
were  feeding  in  a  low  meadow  close  at  hand.     There  sat 

Jack  C ,  cross-legged,  in  the  sun,  splicing  a  trail-rope; 

and  the  rest  were  lying  on  the  grass,  smoking  and  telling 
stories.  That  night  we  enjoyed  a  serenade  from  the 
wolves, 'more  lively  than  any  with  which  they  had  yet 
favored  us;  and  in  the  morning  one  of  the  musicians 
appeared,  not  many  rods  from  the  tents,  quietly  seated 
among  the  horses,  looking  at  us  with  a  pair  of  large  gray 
eyes ;  but  perceiving  a  I'itle  levelled  at  him,  he  lea}icd  up 
and  made  off  in  hot  haste. 

I  pass  by  the  following  day  or  two  of  our  journey,  for 
nothing  occurred  worthy  of  record.  Should  any  one  of 
my  readers  ever  be  impelled  to  visit  the  ])rairies,  and 
should  he  choose  the  route  of  the  Platte  (the  best,  per- 
ha})s,  that  can  be  adopted),  I  can  assure  him  that  he 


'* 


1 


;; 


•  JU-MriNG    Ori\ 


31 


and 


per- 


iiccd  not  think  to  enter  at  once  upon  the  paradise  of  liis 
imagination.  A  dreary  j)reliniinary,  a  }>rotracted  crossing 
of  tlie  threshohl,  awaits  Inm  Ijeforc  he  finds  himself  I'airly 
ni)on  tlie  verge  of  the  "great  American  desert,"*  —  those 
barren  wastes,  the  liaunts  of  the  buffalo  and  the  Indian, 
Avhere  the  very  shadow  of  civilization  lies  a  inmdred 
leagues  behind  him.  The  intervening  country,  the  wide 
and  fertile  belt  that  extends  for  several  hundred  miles 
beyond  the  extreme  frontier,  will  })robal)ly  answer  toler- 
ably well  to  his  preconceived  ideas  of  the  prairie  ;  for 
this  it  is  from  which  picturesque  tourists,  })ainters,  poets, 
and  novelists,  who  have  seldom  penetrated  fai'ther,  have 
derived  their  conceptions  of  the  whole  region.  Jf  he  has 
a  ])ainter's  eye,  he  may  fmd  his  period  of  probation  not 
■wholly  void  of  interest.  The  scenery,  though  tame,  is 
graceful  and  ])leasiug.  Here  are  level  plains,  too  wide 
for  the  eye  to  measure ;  green  undulations,  like  motion- 
less swells  of  the  ocean ;  abundance  of  streams,  followed 
through  all  their  windings  by  lines  of  woods  and  scattered 
groves.  But  let  him  be  as  enthusiastic  as  he  may,  he 
will  lind  enough  to  damp  his  ardor.  His  wagons  will 
stick  in  the  nuid  ;  his  horses  will  break  loosi; ;  harness 
will  give  way ;  and  axle-trees  prove  unsound.  His  bed 
will  be  a  soft  one,  consisting  often  of  black  nnid  of  the 
richest  consistency.  As  for  food,  he  must  content  him- 
self with  biscuit  and  salt  provisions  ;  for,  strange  as  it  may 
seem,  this  tract  of  country  produces  very  little  game.  As 
he  advances,  indeed,  he  will  see,  mouldering  in  the  grass 
by  his  })ath,  the  vast  antlers  of  the  elk,  and  farther  on 
the  whitened  skulls  of  the  Ijutfalo,  once  swarming  over 
this  no\v  deserted  region.  Perhaps,  like  us,  he  may  jour- 
ney for  a  fortnight,  and  see  not  so  much  as  the  hoof-print 
of  a  deer ;  in  the  spring,  not  even  a  prairie-hen  is  to  be 
had. 


32 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


Yet,  to  coiiijicnsato  him  for  this  unlooked-for  deficiency 
of  game,  he  will  find  himself  beset  with  ''■  varmints  ''  innu- 
meraltle.  The  wolves  Avill  entertain  him  with  a  concert 
at  night,  and  skulk  around  liim  by  day,  just  beyond  rifle- 
shot;  his  horse  will  step  into  badger-holes;  from  every 
marsh  and  nuid-puddle  will  arise  tbe  bellowing,  croaking 
and  trilling  of  legions  of  frogs,  infinitely  various  in  color, 
sha})e,  and  dimensions.  A  profusion  of  snakes  will  glide 
away  from  under  his  horse's  feet,  or  (juietly  visit  him  in 
his  tent  at  night ;  while  the  i)ertinacious  hununing  of  un- 
numbered mosquitoes  will  Ijanish  sleep  from  his  eyelids. 
When  thirsty  with  a  long  ride  in  the  scorching  sun  over 
some  boundless  reach  of  j)rairie,  he  comes  at  length  to  a 
pool  of  water,  and  alights  to  drink,  he  discovers  a  troop 
of  young  tadpoles  s})orting  in  the  bottom  of  his  cup.  Add 
to  this,  that,  all  the  morning,  the  sun  Ijeats  upon  him  with 
a  sultry,  })enetrating  heat,  and  that,  with  j)rovoking  regu- 
larity, at  al)out  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  a  thunder- 
storm rises  and  drenches  him  to  the  skin. 

One  day,  after  ii  jtrotracted  morning's  ride,  we  stopped 
to  rest  at  noon  u})on  the  open  prairie.  No  trees  were  in 
sight;  but  close  at  hand  a  little  dribbling  brook  was 
twisting  from  side  to  side  through  a  hollow  ;  now  forming 
holes  of  stagnant  water,  and  now  gliding  over  the  mud  in 
a  scarcely  perceptible  current,  among  a  growth  of  sickly 
bushes,  and  great  clumps  of  tall  rank  grass.  The  day 
was  excessively  hot  and  oppressive.  The  horses  and  mules 
were  rolling  on  the  prairie  to  refresh  themselves,  or  feed- 
ing among  the  bushes  in  the  hollow,  AVe  had  dined  ;  and 
Deslaurigrs,  pufling  at  his  pipe,  knelt  on  the  grass,  scrub- 
bing our  service  of  tin-})late.  Shaw  lay  iii  the  shade, 
under  the  cart,  to  rest  for  awhile,  before  the  word  should 
be  given  to  "  catch  up."  Henry  Chatillon,  before  lying 
down,  was  looking  about  for  signs  of  snakes,  the  only  liv- 


iff 


1  I 


?l:!f 


"  JUiAlPING    OFF." 


33 


iiitr  tilings  tliat  lie  feared,  and  nttcrliiji:  various  ejaculations 
ol"  disgust  at  finding  several  suspicious-looking  holes 
close  to  the  cart.  1  sat  leaning  against  the  wheel  in  a 
scanty  strip  of  shadi;,  nial<ing  a  pair  of  hohhles  to  rejilace 
those  which  niv  contumacious  steed  Pontiac  had  hrolvcn 
tlic  night  before.  The  camp  of  our  friends,  a  rod  or  two 
distiint,  presented  the  same  scene  of  lazy  traiKpiillity. 

''Hallo!"  cried  Henry, looking  up  from  his  inspection 
of  the  snake-holes,  "  here  comes  the  old  Ca})taiii." 

The  Ca{)tain  ai)j)roached,  and  stood  for  a  moment  con- 
temj)lating  us  in  silence. 

"•  J  say,  Parkman,"  he  began,  "  look  at  Shaw  there, 
asleep  under  the  cart,  with  the  tar  dri})ping  off  the  hub  of 
the  wheel  on  his  shoulder." 

At  this  Shaw  got  up,  with  his  eyes  half  opened,  and 
feeling  the  part  indicated,  found  his  hand  glued  fast  to  his 
red  tlannel  shirt. 

"  He'll  look  well,  when  he  gets  among  the  squaws, 
won't  he  ?  "  oliserved  the  Ca})tain,  with  a  grin. 

He  then  crawled  under  the  cart,  and  beivaii  to  tell 
stories,  of  which  his  stock  was  inexhaustible.  Yet  every 
moment  he  would  glance  nervously  at  the  horses.  At 
last  he  jumi)ed  \\\)  in  great  excitement.  '"  Hee  that  horse  ! 
There  —  that  fellow  just  walking  over  the  hill  I  Jiy  Jove  I 
he's  olf.  It's  your  big  horse,  Shaw  ;  no  it  isn't,  it's  Jack's. 
Jack  I  Jack!  hallo,  Jack!"  Jack,  thus  invoked,  jumped 
up  and  stared  vacantly  at  us. 

"  Go  and  catch  your  horse,  if  you  don't  want  to  lose 
him,"  roared  tiie  Captain. 

Jack  instantly  set  otf  at  a  run  through  the  grass,  his 
broad  trousers  flapjting  about  his  feet.  Tlie  Captain 
gazed  anxiously  till  he  saw  that  the  horse  wjis  caught ; 
llicn  he  sat  down,  with  a  countenance  of  thoughtfuliicss 
and  care. 


u 


Tin:    OREGON    TRAIL. 


:'};;!' 


"I  tell  yoii  what  it  is,"  he  said,  'this  will  novor  do  at 
all.  We  shall  lose  every  horse  iii  the  hand  some  day  or 
other,  and  then  a  j)retty  pliiiht  we  should  he  in  I  Xow  I 
am  eon\  inced  that  the  only  way  for  us  is  to  have  every 
man  in  the  camj)  stand  horsc-j^nard  in  rotation  whenever 
we  stop.  Snj)|)osin.ii'  a  hundred  I'awnees  should  jump  \\\) 
out  oC  that  ravine,  all  yelling"  and  (la]»|)in<i,'  their  hnflido 
rohes,  in  the  way  they  do  !  Why,  in  two  minutes,  not  a 
lioof  would  he  in  sight."  We  reminjled  tlu;  Captain  that 
a  hundred  Pawnees  wouM  pi'ohahly  demolish  the  horse- 
guard  if  he  were;  to  resist  their  de})redations. 

"  At  any  rate,"  i)ursued  the  Captain,  evading-  t!ie  j)oint, 
"  onr  whole  system  is  wrong;  I'm  eonvineed  of  it  ;  it  is 
totally  unmilitary.  Why,  the  way  we  travel,  strung  out 
over  the  j)rairie  lor  a  mile,  an  enemy  might  attack  the 
foremost  men,  and  cut  them  oil'  belbre  the  rest  could 
come  uj)." 

•'  We  ai-e  not  in  an  enemy's  country  yet,"  ?nU  Shaw; 
'•  when  we  are,  we'll  travel  together." 

"  Then,"  said  the  Captain,  "we  might  he  attacked  in 
camp.  We've  no  sentinels;  we  'camj)  in  disorder ;  no 
precautions  at  all  to  guard  against  surprise.  i>iy  own 
convictions  are,  that  we  ought  to  'camp  in  a  ludlow- 
sipiare,  with  the  fires  in  the  centre  ;  and  have  sentinels, 
and  a  regular  password  a])])ointed  for  every  night.  iJcside, 
there  should  l)e  videttcs,  riding  in  advance,  to  find  a  place 
foi  the  cam])  and  give  warning  of  an  enemy.  These  are 
my  convictions.  1  don't  want  to  dictate  to  any  man.  I 
give  advice  to  the  best  of  my  judgment,  that's  all ;  and 
then  let  peo])le  do  as  they  please." 

His  plan  of  sending  ont  videttcs  seemed  particidarly 
dear  to  him  ;  anil  as  no  one  else  was  disposed  to  second 
his  views  on  this  i)oint,  he  took  it  into  his  head  to  ride 
forward  that  afternoon  himself. 


Il 


"  JUMPING  orr." 


35 


lo  at 
ly  ov 
'u\v  I 
3  very 
never 
,|.  up 
utValtJ 
not  a 
I  Ihat 
liorse- 

])oint, 
;  it  is 


Shaw ; 

kcd  in 
V  ;  no 

ly  "^^'^^ 

loUow- 
itinels, 
lU'sido, 
\\  place 
«se  arc 
[an.  I 
|l ;  and 

icnlarly 
Isccond 
to   ride 


"Come,  Parknian,"  said  lie,  "  will  you  o-q  -witli  nie?" 

We  set  out  toi;etlier,  aud  I'ode  a  mile  or  two  in  adviinee. 
Tlic  ('ii|)tirni,  in  the  course  of  twenty  years'  service  in  the 
JJritish  army,  had  seen  somethini:;  of  lilo;  and  hein<j; 
naturally  a  jth-asant  fellow,  he  was  a  very  entertainiiiji; 
coin]»aniou.  lie  cracked  Joi<es  and  told  stories  I'or  an 
liour  or  two  ;  until,  lookinji,'  hack,  we  saw  tlu;  prairii  oeliind 
ns  stit'tcirmji'  away  to  the  horizon,  without  a  liorseman  or 
a  wa,i;'on  in  i*i,uht. 

"  Now,"  said  the  Captain,"!  thiidv  the  videttes  had 
hetter  stop  till  the  main  body  comes  up." 

1  was  of  the  same  oi)inion.  There  was  a  thick  j^rowth 
of  woods  just  before  us,  with  a  stream  runniui^  through 
tlicni.  llavin<>'  crossed  this,  we  found  on  the  other  side 
a  level  meadow,  half  encircled  by  the  trees;  and,  fasten- 
ing' our  horses  to  some  bushes,  we  sat  down  on  the  <!;rass, 
■vliile,  with  an  >)ld  stump  of  a  tree  for  a  target,  I  began 
to  display  the  superiority  of  the  renowned  rifle  of  the 
l)ackw()ods  over  the  foreign  innovation  borne  by  the  Ca[)- 
tain.  At  length  voices  could  be  heard  in  the  distance, 
behind  the  trees. 

"  Tlicrc  they  come,"  said  the  Ca))tain ;  "  let's  go  and 
see  how  tluw  get  through  the  creek." 

We  mounted  and  rode  to  the  bank  of  the  stream,  where 
the  trail  crossed  it.  It  ran  in  a  deej)  hollow,  full  of  trees. 
As  we  looked  down,  we  saw  a  confused  erowd  of  horse- 
men riding  through  the  water;  and  among  the  dingy 
habiliments  of  our  party  gliitered  the  uniforms  of  four 
dragoons. 

Shaw  came  whipjung  his  horse  up  the  bank,  in  advance 
of  the  rest,  with  a  somewhat  indignant  countenance.  The 
iirst  woi'd  he  s})oke  was  a  blessing  fervently  inv(»ked  on 

the  head  of  R ,  who  was   riding,  with   a  crest-fallen 

air,  in  the  rear.     Thanks  to  the  in<>enious  devices  of  this 


36 


THE    OREfiON    TRAIT,. 


gentleman,  wo  had  missed  tlie  traek  en  I  i  rely,  and  wn  ad- 
ored, not  towunis  llie  I  Matte,  l)ut  to  the  village  of  tli(!  '.owa 
Indiana.  This  we  learned  IVoin  the  di'au'oons,  wli )  had 
lately  deserted  from  Fort  Leavenworth.  'I'licy  t(  Id  ns 
that  onr  hest  plan  now  was  to  keep  to  the  northwai'd  until 
we  should  strike  the  trail  i'ornied  hy  several  j)arlies  of 
Orejion  eniig'rants,  who  had  that  season  set  out  IVoni  St. 
Joseph,  in  Missouri. 

In  extremely  had  temper,  we  eiu;amped  on  this  ill- 
starred  spot,  while  the  deserters,  whose  ease  admitted  of 
no  delay,  rode  ra[)idly  forward.  On  the  day  foUowin;^', 
striking  the  St.  Joseph's  trail,  we  turned  our  horses'  heads 
towards  Fort  Laramie,  then  about  seven  hundred  miles  to 
the  westward. 


iliLi. 


CllAlTKR   V. 


THE    "BIO     n  HI  E  .' 


''  I  ^IIE  }j:roiit  medley  of  Oregon  and  (.'iilifornia  cmiurants 
-*•  at  their  eani]is  around  Jndependenee  liad  heard  ro- 
])orts  lliat  several  additional  ))arties  were  on  the  ])i)int  of 
netting  out  from  St.  Joseph  farther  io  the  norlliward. 
The  prevailing  impression  was,  that  these  were  Mormons, 
twenty-three  hundred  in  numher  ;  and  a  great  alarm  was 
cxeitcd  in  eonsetiucnce.  The  people  of  Illinois  and  Mis- 
souri, who  com[)Osed  hy  far  the  greater  part  of  the  emi- 
grants, have  never  been  on  the  best  terms  with  the  "  Latter 
Day  Saints  ;  "  and  it  is  notorious  throughout  the  country 
how  much  blood  has  been  spilt  in  their  feuds,  even  far 
within  the  limits  of  the  settlements.  No  one  could  ])re- 
dict  what  would  be  the  result,  when  large  armed  bodies 
of  these  fanatics  should  encounter  the  mfjst  impetuous  and 
reckless  of  their  old  enemies  on  the  broad  i)i'airie,  far 
beyond  the  rcacli  of  law  or  military  force.  The  women 
and  children  at  Independence  raised  a  great  outcry  ;  the 
men  themselves  were  seriously  aiarmed  ;  and,  as  I  learned, 
they  sent  to  Colonel  Kearney,  requesting  an  escort  of 
dragoons  as  far  as  the  Platte.  This  was  refused  ;  and,  as 
the  sequel  ])roved,  there  was  no  occasion  for  it.  Tlio 
St.  Joseph  emigrants  were  as  good  Christians  and  as  zeal- 
ous Mormon-haters  as  the  rest ;  and  the  very  i'cw  families 
of  the  "  Saints  "  who  passed  out  this  season  by  the  routo 


38 


Tin;    ()UE(J()N    'IHAIL. 


of  tlu'  IMaltc  rciniiiiKMl  lidiiiid  until  tlio  fiTciit  tide  of  cmi- 
^'rutioii  liiul  ^'oiic  liy,  stiiinliii;;'  in  i|Mit*>  as  nnidi  !i\V(;  oi' 
the  ''  gentiles*'  iis  the  liiltcr  diil  n\'  llicni. 

W('  were  now  upon  lliis  St.  .loscpli  trail.  Il  was  evi- 
dent, l»y  tlic  tiaceH,  that  hiiy(!  parties  were  a  lew  days  in 
ad\anee  ol'  ns  ;  and  as  we  too  supposed  thcni  to  he  Moi-- 
mons,  we  had  sonic  apprehension  of  interruption. 

'i'he  joui'uey  was  monotonous.  One  day  we  ro(l(!  on 
for  hours,  without  .seeinji"  a  tree  or  a  hush  :  lid'ore,  he- 
hind,  and  on  either  side,  stretched  tlic  vast  ex|»anse,  roU- 
in<!;  in  a  succession  ol'  gracel'ul  swells,  covered  witli  tlic 
iinbrok«'n  carpet  of  I'resli  <;-reen  g'rass.  Ilcrt;  and  there 
a  crow,  a  raven,  or  a  turkey-huzzard,  relieved  the  uni- 
Ibrnutv. 

"  What  shall  we  do  to-ni,uht  for  woo<l  and  water?"  wc 
))egan  to  ask  of  each  other;  for  the  sun  was  within  au 
hour  of  setting.  At  length  a  dark  green  speck  aiijiearcd, 
far  oil' on  the  riglit:  it  was  the  top  of  a  tree,  ])eering 
over  a  swell  of  the  prairie  ;  and,  leaving  the  trail,  wc  made 
all  haste  towards  it.  It  ])rovcd  to  he  the  vanguard  of  a 
cluster  of  hushes  and  low  trees,  that  surrounded  some 
pools  of  water  in  an  exteusivc  hollow  ;  so  we  encamped 
on  the  rising  ground  near  it. 

Shaw  and  J  were  sitting  in  tlic  tent,  when  Deslauriers 
thrust  his  brown  face  and  old  felt  hat  into  the  opening, 
and,  dilating  his  eyes  to  their  utmost  extent,  announced 
supper.  There  were  the  tin  cups  and  the  iion  spoons, 
arranged  in  order  on  the  grass,  and  the  coflce-p:)t  pre- 
dominant in  the  midst.  The  meal  was  soon  dispatched  ; 
hut  Henry  Chatillon  still  sat  cross-legged,  dallying  with 
the  remnant  of  his  coffee,  the  beverage  in  universal  use 
upon  the  prairie,  and  an  especial  favorite  with  him.  lie 
})referred  it  in  its  virgin  tiavor,  unimi)aired  by  sugar  or 
cream ;  and  on  the  ])resent  occasion  it  met  his  entire 


r  '■ 


THE 


(( 


Hid    HMi:. 


39 


n|>|)ntviil,  bcinir  cxcfcdin^:!)'  stroiiL',  or,  us  he  oxi»i*csso(l  it, 
'•  ri^lit  liliiek.'' 

It  was  a  troiycous  sunset;  ami  tlic  ruddy  jj,lo\v  of  the 
skv  was  rt'fl('i't('(l  IVoni  sonic  cxfrnsivo  pools  of  water 
ainonir  tlic  shadowy  c(»j»ses  in  llu'  meadow  below. 

"1  niusl  have  a  hath  to-niuhl,"  said  Shaw.  "How 
is  it,  I)eshiiiriers'.''  Any  eliaiKM!  lor  a  swim  down 
there?" 

'•  Ahl  1  cannot  tell;  just  as  you  please.  >h»nsicur,"  re- 
plied Dcslauriers,  shrnjxiiinu'  his  shonhlers,  perplexed  hy 
liis  iynorance  of  Knu'lish,  and  (sxtrcmelv  anxious  to  con- 
form  in  all  respects  to  tlio  opinions  and  wishes  of  his 
hou)'(ii'iiin. 

"•  Look  at  ills  moccasin,"  said  1.  It  had  evidently  been 
lately  inunersed  in  a  profound  abyss  of  black  nuid. 

*'  Come,"  said  Shaw  ;  ''  at  any  rate  we  can  see  for  our- 
selves." 

Wc  set  out  toL'ether  ;  and  as  we  approached  the  bushes, 
whi(di  were  at  some  distance,  we  found  the  ground  becom- 
inu'  rather  treacherous.  We  could  only  ^et  alon<>:  by 
step|)ing  upon  larue  clumps  of  tall  rank  jj,'rass,  with  fathom- 
less gulfs  between,  like  innumerable  little  ([uaking  islands 
in  an  ocean  of  nuid,  where  a  false  step  Avould  have  in- 
volved our  boots  in  a  catastrophe  like  that  which  luul 
befallen  Deslauriers's  moccasins.  The  thing  looked  des- 
jierate  ;  wc  se]>arated,  to  search  in  dilferent  directions, 
Shaw  going  olf  to  the  right,  wliilc  I  kei)t  straight  for- 
ward. At  last  I  came  to  the  edge  of  the  bushes, —  they 
were  young  water-willows,  covered  with  their  caterpillar- 
like  blossoms,  but  intervening  l)etween  them  and  the  last 
grass  clumi)  was  a  black  and  deei)  slough,  over  which,  by 
a  vigorous  exertion,  I  contrived  to  jump.  Then  I  shoul- 
dered my  way  through  the  willows,  tramjjling  them  down 
by  main  force,  till  I  came  to  a  wide  stream  of  water, 


40 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


thrcG  iuchos  uocp,  lang-uidly  creeping  along  over  a  bottom 
of  sleek  mut.  ^fy  arrival  produced  a  groat  connnotiou. 
A  iiuge  g'^^en  bull-l'rog  uttered  an  indignant  croak,  and 
jiini[»ed  off  the  haidc  with  a  loud  sj)lash  ;  his  webbed  I'eet 
twinkled  al)ove  the  surface,  as  he  jerked  them  energeti- 
cally upward,  and  I  could  sec  him  ensconcing  himself  in 
the  ur'-esisting  slime  at  the  bottom,  whence  several  large 
air-bubbles  struggled  lazily  to  the  top.  Some  little  S{)ot- 
ted  frogs  followed  the  patriarch's  example  ;  and  then  three 
turtles,  not  larger  than  a  dollar,  tumbled  themselves  off  a 
broad  "  lily  pad,"  where  they  had  been  reposing.  At  the 
same  time  a  snake,  gayly  striped  with  black  and  yellow, 
glided  out  from  the  l)ank,  and  writhed  across  t  the  other 
s'de  ;  and  a  small  stagnant  pool  into  wliich  my  foot  had 
inadvertently  pushed  a  stone  was  instantly  alive  with  a 
congregation  of  black  tadpoles. 

"  Any  chance  for  a  bath  where  you  are  ?  "  cdled  out 
Shaw,  from  a  distance. 

Tlio  answer  was  not  encourac'ing.  I  retreated  throuah 
the  willows,  and  rejoining  my  com})anion,  we  proceeded  to 
push  our  researches  in  com})any.  Not  far  m  the  right,  a 
rising  ground,  covered  with  trees  and  bushes,  seemed  to 
sink  down  abruptly  to  the  water,  and  give  hope  of  better 
success;  so  towards  this  we  directed  our  stei)S.  When 
we  reached  the  place  we  found  it  no  easy  matter  to  get 
along  lictween  the  hill  and  the  water,  impeded  as  we  were 
by  a  growth  of  stiff,  obstinate  young  biich-trees,  laced 
togetiier  by  grape-vines.  In  the  twilight  we  now  and 
then,  to  support  ourselves,  snatched  at  the  touch-me-nijt 
stem  of  some  ancient  sweetbrier.  Siuiw,  wlio  was  in 
advance,  suddenly  uttered  an  emphatic  monosyllable  ;  and, 
looking  up,  I  saw  him  with  one  hand  grasping  a  sapling, 
and  one  foot  immersed  in  tiie  water,  from  which  ho  had 
forgotten  to  withdraw  it,  his  whole  attention  being  engaged 


•J' 


.! 


'D"0^ 


THE 


(; 


RIG     BLUE. 


»» 


41 


1 

n 


in  coiitoniplating  tho  movements  of  a  watcr-siinkc,  about 
five  I'eet  lono;,  ciu-ioiisly  clicckered  with  black  and  fj!:rcen, 
Avlio  was  (l''lil)ei'ately  swimming  across  the  pool.  Tliere 
being  no  stick  or  stone  at  hand  to  pelt  him  with,  we  looked 
at  him  I'oi-  a  time  in  silent  disgust,  and  then  pushed  for- 
ward. Oui"  })erseveranco  was  at  last  rewarded ;  for,  seve- 
ral rods  iartiier  on,  we  emerged  upon  a  little  level  grassy 
nook  among  the  l)rusliwood,  and  by  an  extraordinnry  dis- 
pensation of  fortune,  the  weeds  and  floating  sticks,  which 
elsewhere  covered  the  pool,  seemed  to  have  drawn  a})art, 
and  left  a  few  vards  of  clear  water  iust  in  front  of  this 
favored  spot.  We  sounded  it  with  a  stick  ;  it  was  four 
feetdee[):  we  lifted  a  specimen  in  our  closed  hands;  it 
seemed  reasonably  transparent,  so  w^e  decided  that  the 
time  for  action  was  ari'ived.  But  our  ablutions  were,  sud- 
denly interrui)ted  l)y  ten  thousand  ]>uncturcs,like  poisoned 
needles,  and  the  humming  of  myriads  of  overgrown  mos- 
quitoes, rising  in  all  directions  from  their  native  nuid  and 
swarming  to  the  feast.  We  were  fain  to  beat  a  retreat 
with  all  possible  speed. 

We  made  towards  the  tents,  much  refreshed  by  the  bath, 
which  the  heat  of  the  weather,  joined  to  our  prejudices, 
had  rendered  very  desirable. 

"  Wliat's  the  matter  with  the  Captain?  look  at  him  !  " 
said  Sliaw.  The  Cajitain  stood  alone  on  the  ])rairie, 
swinging  his  hat  violently  around  his  head,  and  lifting 
first  one  foot  and  then  the  other,  without  moving  fiom  the 
s))ot.  First  he  looked  down  to  the  ground  with  an  air  of 
sui)reme  abhorrence;  then  he  gazed  n})ward  with  a  per- 
plexed and  indignant  countenance,  as  if  trying  to  trace 
the  flight  of  an  unseen  enemy.  We  called  to  know  what 
was  the  matter;  but  he  re[)lied  only  l)y  execrations  di- 
rected against  some  unknown  object.  We  approached, 
when  our  cars  were  saluted  by  a  droning  sound,  as  if 


42 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I 


twenty  hoc-hives  lia<l  hecn  overturned  at  once.  Tlic  air 
ahove  was  liiU  of  hu'ge  Mack  insects,  iii  a  state  of  great 
commotion,  and  n)iiltitudes  were  tiying  ahout  just  altove 
the  tops  ot"  the  grass-hhulcs. 

"  Don't  1)C  afraid."  called  tlie  Ca})lain,  observing  us 
recoil.     "  The  brutes  won't  sting." 

At  this  1  knocked  one  down  with  my  hat,  and  discovered 
him  to  be  no  other  than  a  "  dor-luig  ;  "  and,  hjoking  cdoser, 
we  found  the  ground  tliickly  perforated  witli  their  lioles. 

Wc  took  a  hasty  leave  of  this  flourishing  colony,  and 
walking  up  the  rising  ground  to  the  tents,  found  Deslau- 
riers's  lire  still  glowing  brightly.  We  sat  down  around 
it,  and  Shaw  began  to  expatiate  on  the  admirable  facili- 
ties for  bathing  that  we  had  discovered,  reconnnending 
the  Captain  by  all  means  to  go  down  there  l)efore  break- 
fast in  the  morning.  The  Caj)tain  was  in  the  act  of 
remarking  thct  he  couldn't  have  l)elieved  it  possible,  when 
lie  suddenly  interruj)ted  himself,  and  clapijcd  his  hand  to 
his  cheek,  exclaiming  that  "  those  infernal  humliugs  were 
at  him  auain."  In  fact,  wc  beuan  to  hear  sounds  as  if 
bullets  were  humming  over  our  heads.  In  a  moment 
something  rapped  me  sharply  on  the  forehead,  then  upon 
the  neck,  and  immediately  I  felt  an  indefinite  nuinl)er  of 
shar})  wiry  claws  in  active  motion,  as  if  their  owner  were 
bent  on  pushing  his  explorations  farther.  I  seized  him, 
and  dro})j)ed  him  into  the  fire.  Our  party  sjieedily  broke 
up,  and  we  adjourned  to  our  respective  tents,  where,  clos- 
ing the  opening  fast,  we  hoped  to  1)0  exem])t  from  inva- 
sion. But  all  jirecaution  was  fruitless.  The  dor-lmgs 
hummed  through  the  tent,  and  marched  over  our  faces 
until  daylight ;  when,  opening  our  blaidccts,  wc  found 
several  dozen  clinging  there  with  the  utmost  teiiacity. 
The  first  object  that  met  our  eyes  in  the  morning  was 
Deslauricrs,  who  seemed  to  be  apostro})hizing  his  frying- 


I 


i 


THE    "  BIG    BLUE. 


43 


pan,  wliicli  lie  lield  by  the  liandlc,  at  arm's  U'liutli.  It 
a|i|t('an'(l  that  lie  had  left  it  at  night  l»y  the  fire  ;  and  the 
bottom  was  now  covered  with  dor-bngs,  liinily  imbedded. 
Ilnndreds  of  others,  cnrionsly  parched  and  shrivelled,  lay 
scattered  among  the  ashes. 

The  horses  and  mnles  were  turned  loose  to  feed.  We 
had  just  taken  our  seats  at  breakfast,  or  rather  reclined  in 
the  classic  mode,  when  an  exclamation  from  Ilcnrv  Chatil- 
Ion,  and  a  shout  of  alarm  from  the  Captain,  gave  warning 
of  some  casualty,  and  looking  up,  we  saw  the  whole  band 
of  animals,  twenty-three  in  number,  filing  off  for  the  set- 
tlements, the  incorrigible  Fontiac  at  their  head,  jumping 
along  with  hobbled  feet,  at  a  gait  much  more  raj)i(l  than 
graceful.  Three  or  four  of  us  ran  to  cut  them  olT,  dash- 
ing as  best  we  might  through  the  tall  grass,  which  was 
glittering  with  dew-drops.  After  a  race  of  a  mile  or  more, 
Shaw  caught  a  horse.  Tying  the  trail-rope  Ijy  way  of 
bridle  round  the  animal's  jaw,  and  leaj)ing  upon  his  back, 
he  got  in  advance  of  the  remaining  fugitives,  while  we, 
soon  bringing  them  together,  drove  them  in  a  crowd  up  to 
the  tents,  where  each  man  caught  and  saddled  his  own. 
Then  were  heard  lamentations  and  curses  ;  for  half  the 
horses  had  l)roke  their  hobbles,  and  many  were  seriously 
galled  by  attempting  to  run  in  fetters. 

It  was  late  that  morning  before  we  were  on  the  march  ; 
and  early  in  the  afternoon  we  were  compelled  to  encamp, 
for  a  thunder-gust  came  up  and  suddenly  enveloped  us  in 
whirling  sheets  of  rain.  AVith  much  ado  we  i)itched  our 
tents  amid  the  tempest,  and  all  night  long  the  thunder 
])cllowed  and  growled  over  our  heads.  In  the  morning 
liii'lit  peaceful  showers  succeeded  the  cataracts  of  rain, 
that  had  been  drenching  us  through  the  canvas  of  our 
tents.  About  noon,  when  there  were  some  treacherous 
indications  of  fair  weather,  wc  got  in  motion  again. 


44 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL 


Not  a  brcatli  of  air  stirred  over  the  free  and  open  prairie : 
tlic  clouds  were  like  light  jnlcs  of  cotton ;  and  where  the 
blue  sky  was  visil)le,  it  wore  a  hazy  and  languid  aspect. 
The  sun  beat  down  npon  ns  with  a  sultry,  pcncti'ating 
heat  almost  insu])portai)le,  and  as  onr  ])arty  crept  slowly 
along  over  the  interminable  level,  the  horses  hung  their 
heads  as  they  waded  fetlock  deep  through  the  mud,  and 
the  men  slouched  into  the  easiest  position  nj)on  the  sad- 
dle. At  last,  towards  evening,  the  old  familiar  black  heads 
of  thunder-clouds  rose  fast  above  the  horizon,  and  the 
same  deep  muttering  of  distant  thunder  that  had  become 
the  ordinary  accompaniment  of  our  afternoon's  journey 
began  to  roll  hoarsely  over  the  prairie.  Only  a  few  min- 
utes elapsed  l)efore  the  whole  sky  Avas  densely  shrouded, 
and  tlie  prairie  and  some  clusters  of  woods  in  front  as- 
sumed a  ])nrple  hue  Itenoath  the  inky  shadows.  Suddenly 
from  the  densest  fold  of  the  cloud  the  flash  leaped  out, 
quivering  again  and  again  down  to  the  edge  of  the  prairie  ; 
and  at  the  same  instant  came  the  sharp  burst  and  the 
long  rolling  peal  of  the  thunder.  A  cool  wind,  fdled  with 
the  smell  of  rain,  just  then  overtook  us,  levelling  the  tall 
grass  ])y  the  side  of  the  path, 

"  Come  on  ;  we  must  ride  for  it ! "  shouted  Shaw,  rush- 
ing by  at  full  s})ced,  his  led  horse  snorting  at  his  side. 
The  whole  party  broke  into  full  gallop,  and  made  for  the 
trees  in  front.  Passing  these,  we  found  beyond  them  a 
meadow  which  they  half  inclosed.  We  rode  ])ell-mell 
upon  the  ground,  leaped  from  horsel^iack,  tore  off  our  sad- 
dles ;  and  in  a  moment  each  man  was  kneeling  at  his 
horse's  feet.  The  hobbles  were  adjusted,  and  the  animals 
turned  loose  ;  then,  as  the  wagons  came  wheeling  rajnd^y 
to  the  spot,  we  seized  ui)on  the  tent-poles,  and  just  as  the 
storm  broke,  we  wei'e  prepared  to  receive  it.  It  came 
upon  us  almost  with  the  darkness  of  night:  the  trees, 


THE    "  BIG    BLUE." 


45 


wliieli  wcro  close  at  liand,  were  comi)lctcly  sliroiuled  by 
the  roaring'  torrents  of  rain. 

We  were  sitting-  in  the  tent  when  Deshtiiriei's,  with  liis 
broad  IVlt  hat  lianging  about  liis  ears,  and  his  shouklers 
glistening  with  rain,  thrust  in  his  head. 

''  V(jnlez  vous  du  sou|)er,  lout  de  suite  ?  I  can  make  lire, 
sous  hi  cliarettc  —  .1  b'lieve  so  —  I  try." 

"Never  mind  supper,  man  ;  come  in  out  of  tlie  rain."' 

Deshiuriers  accordingly  crouched  in  the  entrance,  for 
modesty  would  not  ])ermit  him  to  intrude  farther. 

Our  tent  was  none  of  the  best  defence  against  such  a 
cataract.  The  rain  could  not  enter  bodily,  l)ut  it  beat 
through  the  canvas  in  a  fine  drizzle,  that  wetted  us  just  as 
effectually.  AVe  sat  upon  our  saddles  with  faces  of  the  ut- 
most surliness,  while  the  water  drojjped  I'rom  the  vizors  of 
our  ea])S,  and  trickled  down  our  cheeks.  My  india-rubber 
cloak  conducted  twenty  little  ra})id  streandcts  to  the 
ground;  and  Shaw's  blanket  coat  was  saturated  like  a 
sponge.  ]>ut  what  most  concerned  us  was  the  sight  of 
several  puddles  of  water  rapidly  accunndating;  one,  in  par- 
ticular, that  was  gathering  around  the  tent-pole,  threatened 
to  overspread  the  whole  area  within  the  tent,  holding  forth 
but  an  indifferent  jjromise  of  a  comfortable  night's  rest. 
Towards  sunset,  however,  the  storm  ceased  as  suddenly  as 
it  began.  A  bright  streak  of  clear  red  sky  appeared  above 
the  western  verge  of  the  prairie,  the  horizontal  rays  of 
the  sinking  sun  streamed  through  it,  and  glittered  in  a 
thousand  ])rismatic  colors  upon  the  dri})ping  groves  and 
the  prostrate  grass.  The  pools  in  the  tent  dwindled  and 
sunk  into  the  saturated  soil. 

But  all  our  lioj)es  were  delusive.  Scarcely  had  night 
set  in  when  the  tunmlt  broke  forth  anew.  Tlie  thunder 
here  is  not  like  the  tame  thunder  of  the  Atlantic  coast. 
Bursting  with  a  terrific  crash  directly  above  our  heads,  it 


hj 


I 


46 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


roared  ovoriho  boundless  waste  of  ])rairie,  seeiiiiii,2:  to  roll 
around  the  whole  circle  of  the  lirnuinient  with  a  jx'culiar 
and  awl'ul  reverheration.  The  liiihtninu' Hashed  all  night, 
]>lMyiiig  with  its  Jivid  jilare  ui)on  the  neighlioring  trees, 
revealing  tlie  \a.st  exj)anse  of  t'le  phiin,  nnd  then  leaving 
us  shut  in  as  if  hy  a  |(al]tal»l<'  wall  of  darkness. 

It  did  not  disturb  us  nutcli.  Now  and  then  a  ])eal 
awakene(l  us,  ;ind  made  us  conscious  of  the  electric  battle 
that  was  raging,  and  of  the  floods  that  dashed  upon  the 
stnn(di  cauNas  over  our  heads.  We  lay  upon  india-rubber 
cloths,  [)laced  between  our  blaidvcts  and  tin;  soil.  For  a 
while  (hey  excluded  the  water  to  admiration  ;  but  when  at 
length  it  accumulated  and  began  to  run  over  the  edges, 
they  served  (Mjually  well  to  retain  it,  so  that  towards  tlio 
end  of  the  night  we  were  unconsciously  reposing  in  small 
pools  of  rain. 

On  finally  awaking  in  the  morning  the  prospect  was 
not  a  cheerful  one.  The  rain  no  longer  ])oured  in  tor- 
rents ;  liut  it  pattered  with  a  quiet  i)ertinacity  upon  the 
strained  and  saturated  canvas.  We  disengnged  ourselves 
from  our  blankets,  every  Iil>re  of  which  glistened  with 
little  bead-like  drops  of  water,  and  looked  out  in  the  vain 
hope  of  discovering  some  token  of  fair  weather.  The 
clouds,  in  lead-colored  volumes,  rested  u})on  the  dismal 
verge  of  the  })rairie,  or  hung  sluggishly  overhead,  while 
the  earth  wore  an  aspect  no  more  attractive  than  the 
lieavens,  exhibiting  nothing  but  })Ools  of  water,  grass 
beaten  down,  and  nuid  well  tramjjled  by  our  nudes  and 
horses.  Our  companions'  tent,  with  an  air  of  forlorn  and 
])assive  misery,  and  their  wagons  in  like  manner  drenched 
and  woe-liegone,  stood  not  far  off.  The  Ca})tain  was  just 
returning  from  his  morning's  inspection  of  the  horses. 
lie  stalked  tlirough  the  mist  and  rain,  with  his  plaid 
around  his  shouldei's,  his  little  pipe,  dingy  as  an  antiqua- 


THE    "  BIG    BLUE. 


47 


rian  I'clic,  projcding  from  beneath  his  nioustaclie,  and  his 
l)r()th('i'  Jack  at  liis  lieels. 

At  noon  the  sky  was  clear,  and  we  set  out,  trailing 
tlu'ough  nuid  and  slime  six  inches  deep.  Tliat  night  we 
were  spared  the  customary  infliction  ol'tlie  showcr-balh. 

On  the  next  afternoon  we  were  moving  slowly  aloui 


n» 


not  lap 
Jack  V- 


oui  a  ]iatch  of  woods  which   lay  on  the  right. 
—  rode  a  little  in  advance, — 


"  Tlie  liveloiii;-  day  lie  hiid  not  spoke;  " 

when  suddenly  he  faced  about,  pointed  to  the  woods,  and 
roared  out  to  his  brother, — 

"  0  Hill !  here's  a  cow." 

The  Captain  instantly  galloped  forward,  and  he  and 
Jack  made  a  vain  attem))t  to  capture  the  ]»rize  ;  but  the 
cow,  with   a  well-grounded  distrust  of  tneir   intentions, 

took  refuge  among  the  trees.    K joined  them,  and  they 

soon  drijve  her  out.  We  watched  their  evolutions  as  they 
gallojteil  around  her,  trying  in  vain  to  noose  her  with  their 
trail-rojies,  which  they  had  converted  into  Inriettes  for  the 
occasion.  At  length  they  resorted  to  milder  measures, 
and  the  cow  was  driven  along  with  the  party.  Soon  alter 
the  usual  ;hunder-storm  came  up,  the  wind  blowing  with 
such  fury  that  the  streams  of  rain  flew  almost  horizontally 
along  the  prairie,  roaring  like  a  cataract.  'J'he  horseo 
turned  tail  to  the  storm,  and  stood  hanging  their  heads, 
beai'inu'  the  infliction  with  an  air  of  meekness  an<l  resiu- 
nation  :  while  we  drew  our  heads  between  our  shoulders, 
and  crouched  forward,  so  as  to  make  our  backs  serve  as  a 
pent-house  for  the  rest  of  our  persons.  Meanwhile  the 
cow,  taking  advantage  of  the  tunndt,  ran  off,  to  the  great 
discomfiture  of  the  Captain.  In  defuince  of  the  storm, 
he  ])ulled  his  cap  tight  over  his  brows,  jerked  a  huge 
buffiilo-pistol   from  his  holster,  and   set    out  at  full  speed 


48 


after  lior 
time,  til 
bill  at  Ic 


THE  ori:gon 

TU.  IL. 

\     Tliis  was  the 

last  wc 

saw  of  them  for 

some 

13  mist  and  rain 

inakiiijj,' 

an   inipeneti 

•able 

veil ; 

i<i;th  we  heard  the 

Caj>taiii's  shout,  am 

I  SPW 

him 

tlirou^h  the  tem|i( 

,'st,  the 

[)icture  of  a 

Hibernian                    1 

looming" 

cavalier,  with  his  cocked  pistol  held  aloft  for  safety's  sake. 


d 


nte 


of 


<ancc  01  anxiety  ana  excitement,  j  ne  cow 
trotted  before  him,  but  exhibited  evident  signs  of  an  in- 
tention to  run  olf  again,  and  the  Captain  was  roaring  to 
us  to  head  her.  But  the  rain  had  got  in  behind  our  coat 
collars,  and  was  travelling  over  our  necks  in  mimerous 
little  streamlets,  and  being  afraid  to  move  our  heads,  for 
feai'  of  adn  itting  more,  we  sat  stiff  and  immovable,  look- 
ing at  the  Captain  askance,  and  laugliing  at  his  frantic 
movements.  At  last  the  cow  made  a  sudden  plunge  and 
ran  off;  the  Ci'Dtain  giasped  h\::>  pistol  firmly,  s})urred  his 
horse,  and  galloped  after,  with  evident  designs  of  mis- 
chief. In  a  mon>ent  we  heard  the  faint  report,  deadened 
by  the  rain,  ana  then  the  coiupieror  and  his  victini  rea|> 
peared,  the  latter  shot  through  the  body,  and  quite  helj)- 
less.  Not  long  after,  the  storm  moderated,  and  wo 
advanced  again.  The  cow  walked  painfully  along  under 
the  charge  of  Jack,  to  whom  the  Captain  had  committed 
her,  while  he  himself  rode  forward  in  his  old  capacity  of 
vidette.  We  were  approaching  a  long  line  of  trees,  that 
followed  a  stream  stretching  across  our  path,  far  in  front, 
when  wc  beheld  the  vidette  galloping  towaids  us  appar- 
entl}'^  much  excited,  out  with  a  broad  grin  on  his  face. 

"  Let  that  cow  drop  behiml ! ''  he  shoutt  ■!  to  us  ;  '  here's 
her  owners." 

And,  in  fact,  as  we  approached  the  line  of  trees,  a  large 
white  object,  like  a  tent,  was  visible  })ehincl  them.  On 
approaching,  liowever,  we  found,  iiistead  of  tlic  expected 
Mormon  camp,  nothing  but  the  lonely  ]»rairie,  and  a  large 
white  rock  standing  by  the  path.     The  cow,  therefore, 


THE 


i)Ui  uLi:i;. 


49 


^Vont, 
ppar- 

here's 


llargc 

On 

leeted 

llarti'e 

I'oro, 


resiuiUMl   her   })lace   in    our  procession.     She  walixcd  on 

until  we   L'iieaiuj»ed,  when  Ji ,  approacluui;'  with  his 

English  douhle-harrelled  rille,  toi>l<  aim  at  her  heart,  and 
disehariied  into  it  lirst  one  hullrt  and  then  the  other.  She 
Avas  then  butelicrv'd  on  the  most  approved  ))rineiplcs  ol' 
woodcraft,  and  I'uniisiu'd  a  veiy  welcome  item  to  our 
somewhat  limited  l)ill  ot"  fare. 

In  a  day  or  two  more  we  reached  tli(!  river  called  the 
'•  IJiu'  niue.''  \>Y  titles  e(pially  elegant,  almost  all  the 
streams  of  thi.-s  region  are  designated.  We  had  struggled 
Ihrt.'igh  ditclies  and  Utile  brooks  all  that  morning;  hut 
on  traversing  the  dense  woods  that  lined  the  hanks  of  the 
IJlue,  W(;  found  that  more  formidable  diflieulties  awaited 
us,  foi-  the  stream,  swollen  by  the  rains,  was  wide,  deej), 
and  rapid. 

No  sooner  were  we  on  the  spot  than  R flung  olT 

his  clotlies,  and  swam  across,  or  splashed  through  the 
shallows,  with  the  end  of  a  rope  between  his  teeth.  We 
all  looked  on  in  admiration,  wondering  what  might  be 
the  object  of  this  enei'getic  prc})aration  ;  Init  soon  we 
heard  him  shouting:  "Give  that  ro))e  a  turn  round  that 
stumj).  Yon,  riorel  ;  do  you  hear?  Look  shai'p,  now, 
i^oisverd.  Come  over  to  this  side,  some  of  you,  and  help 
me."  Ti)e  men  to  whom  these  orders  were  directed  paid 
not  the  least  attention  to  them,  though  they  were  poured 
out  without  pause  or  intermission.  Henry  Chatillon  di- 
rected the  work,  and  it  })roceeded  (piietly  and  ia[)idly. 
R "s  sharj)  biattling  voice  might  have  ])een  heard  in- 
cessantly ;  and  he  was  leaping  about  with  the  utuKjst 
activity.  His  connnands  were  I'ather  anuisingly  incon- 
sistent ;  for  when  he  saw  that  the  men  would  not  do  as 
he  told  them,  he  aceonnnodated  himself  to  ei'-cumstanees, 
and  with  the  utmost  vehemence  ordered  them  to  d(j  pre- 
cisely that  which  they  were  at  the  time  engaged  upon,  no 


.00 


Till.    OIIEGUN    TUAIJ-. 


4 


(louUt  recollect in*i'  llic  wtory  of  Mahomcf  ami  tlio  rcfraclory 

mouiilaiii.     Shaw  shiIUmI  ;    K oh.scrved    it,  and,   i\\>- 

proacliini^  with  a  coiinfciiance  of  iiidiuMiation,  hc^aii   lo 
va|)(ii'  M  liltlc,  hut  WHS  insla.)tly  rcMhiccd  to  silcuco. 

Tlic  ral't  Wiis  ;it  Icniith.  complete.  We  piled  our  goods 
upon  it,  witli  the  exception  of  our  guns,  which  each  man 
chos(^  t«  retain  in  his  own  keeping.  Sorel,  JJoisverd, 
Wrigh'i,  and  Deslauriers  took  their  stations  at  the  lour 
corners,  to  hold  it  togetli  r,  and  swim  across  with  it;  and 
in  a  moment  more  all  our  earthly  possessions  were  float- 
ing on  the  turhid  -waters  of  the  l>ig  lUtie.  We  sid  on  the 
bank,  anxiously  watching  the  result,  until  we  saw  the  ral't 
sale  landed  in  a  little  cove  I'ar  down  on  the  (jp|)osite  liaak. 
The  cm[»ty  wagons  were  easily  passed  across  ;  and  then, 
each  man  mounting  a  horse,  we  rode  through  the  stream, 
the  stray  animals  I'ollowing  of  their  own  accord. 


I 


■    ■** 


I 


I 


w 


CIIAITF.R   VI, 


Tin:  rLATTi:  and  tiik  dkskiit. 

JV,  were  now  ut  the  end  of  our  solilary  joiiniey- 
ings  iiloiij^  the  St.  Joscpli  trail.  On  the  t'vonin<^ 
of  the  t\v('iity-thir(l  of  May  wo  cucamjwd  near  its  juut'liou 
with  tlic  old  leu'itiniaU'  trail  of  the  Ore.uoii  cniiiifants. 
We  had  ridden  lonj^  that  afternoon,  tryinj;'  in  vain  to 
lind  wood  and  watei',  until  at  length  we  saw  llu>  sunset 
Bky  lellected  from  a  |iool  eneireled  hy  hushes  and  rocks. 
The  water  lay  in  the  bottom  of  a  hollow,  the  smooth 
jirairic  gracefully  rising  in  ocean-like  swells  on  every 
side.  We  pii'died  ^ur  tents  by  it;  not  however  before 
the  keen  eye  of  lienry  Chatillon  had  discerned  some 
unusual  objec^t  npon  the  faintly-defmed  outline  of  the 
distant  swell,  lint  in  the  moist,  hazy  atniosphei'e  of 
the  evening,  nothing  could  be  clearly  distinguished.  As 
we  hiy  around  the  (h'c  after  supper,  a  low  and  distant 
sound,  strange  enough  amid  the  loneliness  of  the  prairie, 
reached  our  ears  —  peals  of  laughter,  and  the  fanit  voices 
of  men  and  women.  For  eight  days  we  had  not  cn- 
counteicd  a  human  being,  and  this  siuiinlar  warninir  of 
their  vicinity  had  an  effect  extremely  im[iressive. 

Al)out  dark  a  sallow-faced  fellow  descended  the  hill  on 
horseback,  and  splashing  through  the  pool,  rode  up  to  the 
tents.  lie  was  enveloped  in  a  huge  cloak,  and  his  broad 
felt  hat  was  weeping  about  liis  cars  with  the  drizzling 
moistm-c  of  the  evening.  Another  followed,  a  stout,  square- 


52 


THE    OIIKGON    TllAIL. 


hnill,  iiitrlli^cut-lookiii;^'  iniin,  wlio  auiiounccil  hiinscH'  ns 
UiiuU'i'  of  an  emiiiiunt  i»iiity,  ('iiciinipcd  u  mile  in  iul\iiiii;o 
of  US.  Altoiit  Iwciity  NVii^oiirt,  Ik;  .siiid,  wore  with  hiiu  ; 
tlic  rest  of  his  parly  wwc  on  the;  other  side;  of  the  IJii;' 
IJhie,  waitiiiL!,"  foi"  a  woman  wlio  was  in  the  pains  of  eiiild- 
hiiHi,  ami  (|nniTellinL!,'  meanwhih;  amoni;'  tliemselves. 

'I'liese  were  the  Ih'st  emiii'i'ants  that  we  liad  overtal<en, 
ulthon^ii  we  luul  fonntl  ai)nn(laiit  and  niehmelioly  traces 
of  tiieir  pn)<iress  thron<j,hont  the  eonrse  of  the  journey. 
Sometimes  we  passed  the  ^ravo  of  one  wiio  had  sieixened 
and  died  on  the  way.  The  earlli  was  nsnally  torn  up, 
and  eovered  lliielviy  with  wolf-traeks.  Sona;  laid  escaped 
this  violation.  One  m(n-nin|j,',  a  piece  of  plank,  standinj^ 
upriuht  on  tin;  snnunit  of  a  }2,rassy  hill,  attracted  our 
notice,  and  ridinii,'  up  to  it,  we  found  the  followinj^'  words 
very  i'oii<:]dy  traced  npoJi  it,  apparently  with  a  red-hot 
piece  of  iion  :  — 

^lARY  EI.LIS. 


DIIOU    MAY     7  til,     1j45. 

A(iKU  TWO   .M(JNriI8. 


Sn(.'li  tokens  were  of  connnon  occurrence. 

We  were  late  in  hreakinjj;  up  our  camp  on  the  follow- 
ing morning",  and  scarcely  luul  we  ridden  a  mile  when  we 
saw,  far  in  advance  of  us,  drawn  against  the  horizon,  a 
line  of  objects  stretching  at  regular  intervals  along  the 
level  edge  of  the  prairie.  An  intervening  swell  soon  hid 
them  from  sight,  until,  ascending  it  a  (juarter  of  an  hour 
after,  we  saw  close  before  us  the  emigrant  caravan,  with 
its  heavy  white  wagons  creeping  on  in  slow  procession,  and 
a  large  drove  of  cattle  following  ])ehind.  Half  a  dozen 
yellow-visaged  ]\Iissonrians,  uKJunted  on  horseback,  were 
cursing  and  shouting  among  them,  their  lank  angular 
proportions  enveloped  in  browai  homespun,  evidently  cut 


Tin:  ri.AiTE   and  Tin:  ni:si;irr. 


53 


ho 

lid 

1)1 1 1" 

lith 

Ind 

Ion 

>ro 

ar 

mt 


and  iidjiislcd  liy  llic  liiiiids  of  ii  dninostio  I'om.'ilc  tailor. 
As  wo  a|i|irnacli('d.  tlicy  oallod  out  to  us  :  "  How  aro  yo, 
Itovs  ?     Arc  vc  for  Oi-otroii  or  (.'aliforiiia  ?  " 

As  we  pusliod  rapidly  l>y  tlio  wau'ous,  cliildrou's  faoos 
wore  thrust  out  from  the  while  ('ovoriu,u:s  to  look  at  us; 
while  the  oai'c-worii,  thiu-foalurod  matron,  oi'  th(>  huxom 
^irl,  seated  in  front,  suspondo(|  tho  knittini:'  on  whieh 
most  of  them  woro  cniTiiucd  to  stare  at  us  with  woiidor- 
injz"  omiosity.  IJy  the  side  of  each  wauon  stalked  tho 
proj»riet(»r,  ni',!_dn<j:  on  liis  patient  oxon,  who  shouldered 
heavily  alon^'.  inch  hy  inoh,  on  their  intorminahio  jour- 
ney. It  was  easy  to  sec  that  fear  and  dissension  ])revailod 
nmonti;  them;  some  of  tlie  men  —  hut  those,  with  one 
exception,  woi'c!  haeholoi's  —  looked  wistfully  upon  ns  as 
we  rode  li^litly  and  swiftly  hy,  and  then  impatiently  at 
tlu'ir  own  lumheriuLj:  watrons  and  heavv-'iaited  oxon. 
Others  wore  nnwillinii' to  advance  at  all,  imtil  the  party 
they  had  left  hehind  should  have  rojoino*!  them.  Many 
Avere  mnrmurinu"  au'ainst  the  loader  they  had  chosen,  and 
wished  to  depose  him;  and  this  discontoid  was  fomented 
hy  some  amhitious  sjjirits,  who  had  hoj)os  of  succeedinj^ 
in  his  place.  The  women  were  divided  hetween  ro<^'rets 
for  tho  homes  tlioy  had  loft  and  fear  of  the  deserts  and 
sava'i'cs  hofore  them. 

Wo  soon  left  them  far  l)ohind,  and  hoped  that  we  had 
taken  a  (nial  leave  :  hut  our  eomi)anions'  wagon  stuck  so 
long  in  a  deoj>  muddy  ditch,  that  hofore  it  was  extricated 
the  van  of  tho  emigrant  caravan  appeared  again,  descend- 
ing a  ridge  close  at  hand.  Wagon  after  wagon  plunged 
through  the  nuid  ;  and  as  it  was  nearly  noon,  and  the 
place  promised  shade  and  water,  wo  saw  with  satislaction 
that  tlioy  were  resolved  to  encamp.  Soon  tho  wagons 
were  wheeled  into  a  circle:  the  cattle  were  grazing  over 
the  meadow,  and  the  men,  with  sour,  sullen  faces,  were 


64: 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


lookiiii;  about  for  wood  and  water.     Tlicv  seemed  to  meet 

l)ut  iiidiUbreut  success.     As  we  left  the  ground,  I  saw  a 

tall,  slouching'  fellow,  with  the   nasal  accent  of  "  d(nvn 

east,"  contemplating  the  contents  of  his  tin  cup,  which  ho 

had  just  filled  with  water. 

"  Look  here,  you,"  said  he  ;  "  its  chock-full  of  animals !" 

The  cup,  as  he  held  it  out,  exhibited  in  fact  an  cxtraor- 

(iiiuiry  variety  and  profusion  of  animal  and  vegetaljle  life. 

Riding   up   the   little   hill,  and   looking   back    on  the 

meadow,  we  could  easily  sec  that  all  was  not  right  in  the 

camp  of  the  emigrants.     The  men  were  crowded  together, 

and    an   angry  discussion  seemed   to  be  going  forward. 

R was  missing  from  his  wonted  i)lace  in  the  line,  and 

tlie  Captain  told  us  that  he  had  remained  behind  to  get 
his  horse  shod  l)y  a  blacksmith  attached  to  the  emigrant 
party.  Something  whispered  in  our  ears  that  mischief 
was  on  foot ;  we  ke[)t  on,  however,  and  coming  soon  to  a 
stream  of  tolerable  water,  we  stopped  to  rest  and  dine. 
Still  the  absentee  lingered  behind.  At  last,  at  the  distance 
of  a  mile,  he  and  his  horse  suddenly  appeared,  sharply 
denned  ..gainst  the  sky  on  the  summit  of  a  hill ;  and  close 
behind,  a  huge  white  object  rose  slowly  into  view. 
'•  What  is  that  blockhead  bringing  with  him  now  ?  " 
A  moment  dispelled  the  mystery.  Slowly  and  solemnly, 
one  behind  the  other,  four  long  trains  of  oxen  and  four 
emigrant  wagons  rolled  over  the  crest   of  the  hill   and 

gravely  descended,  while  R rode  in  state  in  the  van. 

It  seems,  that  during  the  process  of  shoeing  the  horse, 
the  smothered  dissensions  among  the  emigrants  suddenly 
broke  into  0}icn  rupture.  Some  insisted  on  })ushing  for- 
ward, some  on  remaining  where  they  were,  arid  some  on 
going  l)ack,  Kearsley,  their  captain,  threw  up  his  com- 
mand in  disgust.  "  And  now,  boys,"  said  he,  "  if  any  of 
you  arc  for  going  ahead,  just  you  come  along  with  me." 


THE    ri-ATTE    AND    THE     DESERT. 


;)0 


lur 
lud 


)r- 

1011 

Ini- 
of 


Four  wagons,  Avilh  ten  men,  one  woman,  and  one  small 
child,  made  \\\>  the  Torcc  of  the  "go-ahead"  Taction,  and 

II ,  wilh  his  usual  proclivity  toward  mischief,  invitod 

them  to  join  our  party.  Fear  of  the  Indians  —  for  1  can 
conceive  no  other  motive  —  must  have  induced  him  to 
court  so  burdensome  an  alliance.  At  all  events,  the  pro- 
ceeding was  a  cool  one.  The  men  who  joined  us,  it  is 
true,  were  all  that  could  be  desired  ;  rude  indeed  in  man- 
ners, but  frank,  manly,  and  intelligent.  To  tell  them  we 
could  not  travel  with  them  was  out  of  the  question.  I 
merely  reminded  Kearsley  that  if  his  oxen  could  not  keep 
up  with  our  mules  he  nmst  expect  to  be  left  behind,  as  we 
could  not  consent  to  be  farther  delayed  on  the  journey  ; 
but  he  immediately  re}ilied,  that  his  oxen  "  s7i(9?//t?  keep 
up ;  and  if  they  couldn't,  why,  he  allowed,  heVl  fmd  out 
how  to  make  'em." 

On  the  next  day,  as  it  chanced,  our  English  companions 
broke  the  axle-tree  of  their  wagon,  and  down  came  the 
whole  cumbrous  machine  lumbering  into  the  bed  of  a 
brook.  PIcre  was  a  day's  work  cut  out  for  us.  Mean- 
while our  emigrant  associates  kept  on  their  way,  and  so 
vigorously  did  they  urge  forward  their  powerful  oxen, 
that,  what  with  the  broken  axle-tree  and  other  mishaps, 
it  was  full  a  week  before  we  overtook  them  ;  when  at 
length  we  discovered  them,  one  afternoon,  crawling 
quietly  along  the  sandy  brink  of  the  Platte.  But  mean- 
while various  incidents  occurred  to  ourselves. 

It  was  probable  that  at  this  stage  of  our  journey  the 
Pawnees  would  attempt  to  rob  us.  We  began  therefoi'c 
to  stand  guard  in  turn,  dividing  the  night  into  three 
watches,  aiul  aitpointing  two  men  for  each.  Deslauriers 
and  I  held  guard  together.  We  did  not  march  with  mili- 
tary precision  to  and  fro  before  the  tents:  our  discipline 
was  by  no  means  so  strict.     We  wrapped  ourselves  in  our 


fin 


56 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


(1  Dcslaur: 


LlaulvC'ts,  and  sat  down  Ijy  tlic  fire  ;  ana  I'cslauricrs,  com- 
bining his  cnlinaiy  f'linccions  with  his  dntics  as  seniinol, 
cnip'tycd  liiinsolf  in  boihng  the  liead  of  an  antelope  I'-i- 
our  breakfast.  Yet  we  were  models  of  vigilance  in  eom- 
parison  with  some  of  the  party;  f(jr  the  ordinary  j)raetiL'('. 
of  the  guard  was  to  lay  his  rifle  on  the  ground,  and, 
enveloping  his  nose  in  his  blanket,  meditate  on  his  mis- 
tress, 01'  Avhatever  subject  best  pleased  him.  This  is 
all  well  enoutih  when  amoni>;  Indians  who  do  not  habit- 
ually  i)roceed  further  in  their  hostility  than  rol)bing 
travellers  of  their  horses  and  mules,  though,  indeed,  a 
Pawnee's  forbearance  is  not  alwavs  to  be  trusted  ;  but  in 
certain  regions  farther  to  the  west,  the  guard  must  beware 
how  ho  exposes  his  person  to  the  light  of  the  fire,  lest 
some  keen-eyed  skulking  marksman  should  let  fly  a  bullet 
or  an  arrow  from  the  darkness. 

Among  various  talcs  that  circulated  around  our  camp- 
fire  was  one  told  by  Boisverd,  and  not  inapproj)riate  here. 
He  was  ti-apping  with  several  comj)anions  on  the  skirts 
of  the  lUackfoot  country.  The  num  on  guard,  knowing 
that  it  behooved  him  to  put  forth  his  utmost  })rccaution, 
kept  aloof  from  the  fire-light,  and  sat  watching  intently 
on  all  sides.  At  length  he  was  aware  of  a  dark,  crouch- 
ing figure,  stealing  noiselessly  into  the  circle  of  the  light. 
He  hastily  cocked  his  rifle,  l»ut  the  sharp  click  of  the  lock 
caught  the  ear  of  the  Blackfoot,  whose  senses  were  all  on 
the  alert.  Raising  his  arrow,  already  fitted  to  the  string, 
he  shot  it  in  the  direction  of  the  sound.  So  sure  was  his 
aim,  that  he  drove  it  through  the  throat  of  the  unfor- 
tunate guard,  and  then,  with  a  loud  yell,  bounded  from 
the  camp. 

As  I  looked  at  the  partner  of  my  waich,  puffing  and 
blo\ying  over  his  fire,  it  occurred  to  me  that  he  might  not 
prove  the  most  efficient  auxiliary  in  time  of  trouble. 


fir 


THE  TLATTE  AND  THE  DESKUT 


57 


a 


on 


ind 

QOt 


"  Deslaiiriers,"  said  I,  "  would  you  run  away  if  tlie  Paw- 
nees sliould  (ire  at  us  ?" 

"  All !  oui,  oui.  Monsieur  !  "  he  rei)licd  very  decisively. 

At  tliis  instant  a  wliinisical  variety  of  voices, —  barks, 
howls,  yelps,  and  whines,  —  all  mingled  together,  sounded 
fi'oni  the  prairie,  not  far  off,  as  if  a  conclave  of  wolves  of 
every  age  and  sex  were  assenil)led  there.  Dcslauriers 
loolvcd  up  from  his  worlc  with  a  laugli,  and  l)egan  to  imi- 
tate this  medley  of  sounds  with  a  hidicrous  accuracy.  At 
this  they  were  repeated  with  redoubled  emi)hasis,  tlie 
musician  l)eing  ai)parently  indignant  at  the  successful 
efforts  of  a  rival.  Tliey  all  proceeded  from  the  throat  of 
one  little  wolf,  not  larger  than  a  spaniel,  seated  by  him- 
self at  some  distance.  lie  was  of  the  species  called  the 
prairie-wolf:  a  grim-visaged,  but  harndess  little  brute, 
whose  worst  ])ropensity  is  creeping  among  horses  and 
gnawing  the  ro[)es  of  raw  hide  by  which  they  are  picketed 
around  the  camp.  Other  beasts  roam  the  ])rairies,  far 
more  formidable  in  aspect  and  in  character.  These  arc 
tlie  large  wliite  and  gray  wolves,  whose  deep  howl  we 
heard  at  intervals  from  far  and  near. 

At  last  I  fell  into  a  doze,  and  awaking  from  it,  found 
Dcslauriers  fast  asleep.  Scandalized  l)y  this  breach  of 
disci})line,  I  was  aljout  to  stimulate  Jiis  vigilance  by  stir- 
ring him  with  the  stock  of  my  rifle  ;  but,  compassion  pre- 
Tailing,  I  determined  to  let  liim  sleep  a  while,  and  then 
arouse  him  to  administer  a  suitalilc  reproof  for  such 
forgetfulness  of  duty.  Now  and  then  I  walked  the  rounds 
among  the  silent  horses,  to  see  that  all  was  riuht.  The 
night  was  chill,  damp,  and  dark,  the  dank  grass  bending 
under  the  icy  dew-drops.  At  the  distance  of  a  rod  or  two 
the  tents  were  invisilile,  and  nothing  could  bo  seen  but 
the  obscure  hgures  of  the  horses,  deeply  breathing,  jind 
restlessly  starting  as  they  slejtt,  or  still  slowly  champiiif 


^iti 


\ 


58 


THE    OREGON     TRAIL. 


the  grass.  Far  ofT,  l)cyon(l  the  bhack  outline  of  the  prairie, 
there  was  a  niddy  ligiit,  gradually  Increasinn;,  like  the 
glow  of  a  conflagration  ;  until  at  length  the  broad  disk  of 
the  moon,  blood-red,  and  vastly  magnified  ])y  the  va])ors, 
rose  slowly  upon  the  darkness,  flecked  liy  one  or  two  little 
clouds,  and  as  the  light  poured  over  the  gloomy  plain,  a 
fierce  and  stern  howl,  close  at  hand,  seemed  to  greet  it  as 
an  unwelcome  intruder.  There  was  something  im[)ressive 
and  awful  in  the  place  and  the  hour  ;  for  I  and  the  beasts 
were  all  that  had  consciousness  for  many  a  league  around. 

Some  days  elai)sed,  and  brought  us  near  the  Platte. 
Two  men  on  horseback  a])proached  us  one  morning,  and 
we  watched  them  with  tlic  curiosity  and  interest  that, 
upon  the  solitude  of  the  plains,  such  an  encounter  always 
excites.  They  were  evidently  whites,  from  their  mode  of 
riding,  though,  contrary  to  the  usage  of  that  region,  neither 
of  them  carried  a  rifle. 

"  Fools  I  "  remarked  Henry  Chatillon,  "  to  ride  that 
way  on  the  prairie;  Pawnee  find  them  —  then  they  catch 
it." 

Pawnee  had  found  them,  and  they  had  come  very  near 
"  catching  it ;  "  indeed,  nothing  saved  them  but  the  ap- 
proach of  our  party.  Shaw  and  I  knew  one  of  them,  —  a 
man  named  Turner,  whom  we  had  seen  at  Westport.  lie 
and  his  companion  belonged  to  an  emigrant  party  en- 
camped a  few  miles  in  advance,  and  had  returned  to  look 
for  some  stray  oxen,  leaving  their  rifles,  with  character- 
istic rashness  or  iu'uorance,  behind  them.  Their  ne<>lcct 
had  nearly  cost  them  dear  ;  for,  just  before  we  came  up, 
half  a  dozen  Indians  ap})roached,  and,  seeing  them  ai> 
})arently  defenceless,  one  of  the  rascals  seized  the  bridle 
of  Turner's  horse  and  ordered  him  to  dismount,.  Tur- 
ner was  wholly  unarmed  ;  but  the  other  jerked  a  pistol 
out  of  his  pocket,  at  which  the  Pawnee  recoiled  ;  and  just 


% 


■I 

I 


THE     TLAITE    AND    THE     DESERT. 


59 


near 
!  ap- 
—  a 
He 
en- 
ouk 
ter- 
cet 
up, 

'1> 
idle 

ur- 

^tol 

list 


1 


'Si 


then  some  of  our  men  appcariug  in  tlic  distance,  the  whole 
party  wliii)pcd  their  rugged  little  horses  and  made  off. 
In  no  way  daunted,  Turner  foolishly  persisted  in  going 
for  wa  I'd. 

Long  after  leaving  him,  and  late  that  afternoon,  in  the 
midst  of  a  gloomy  and  barren  prairie,  we  came  suddeidy 
upon  the  great  trail  of  the  Pawnees,  leading  from  their 
villages  on  tlio  Platte  to  their  war  and  hunting  grounds 
to  the  southward.  Here  every  summer  passes  the  motley 
concourse:  thousands  of  savages,  men,  women,  and  cliil- 
(h'cn,  horses  and  mules,  laden  with  their  weapons  and  im- 
pl^'Uients,  and  an  innumerable  multitude  of  unruly  wolfisli 
dogs,  who  have  not  acquired  the  civilized  accom[)lishment 
o!"  barking,  but  howl  like  their  wild  cousins  of  the  prairie. 

The  jjcrmanent  winter  villages  of  the  Pawnees  stand 
on  the  lower  Platte,  but  throughout  the  summer  the 
greater  |)art  of  the  inhabitants  are  wandering  over  the 
plains. —  a  treacherous,  cowardly  banditti,  who,  by  a  thou- 
sand acts  of  pillage  and  murder,  have  deserved  chastise- 
ment at  llio  hands  of  government.  Last  year  a  Dahcotah 
warrior  performed  a  notalde  exploit  at  one  of  these  vil- 
lages. He  ap])roachcd  it  alone,  in  the  middle  of  a  dark 
night,  and  clambering  up  the  outside  of  one  of  the  lodges, 
which  are  in  the  form  of  a  half-sphere,  looked  in  at  the 
round  hole  made  at  the  top  for  the  escape  of  smoke.  The 
dusky  light  from  the  embers  showed  him  the  forms  of 
the  sleeping  inmates  ;  and  dropping  lightly  through  tlio 
opening,  he  unsheathed  his  knife,  and,  stirring  the  fire, 
coolly  selected  his  victims.  One  by  one,  he  stabbed 
and  scalped  them;  when  a  child  suddenly  awoke  and 
screamed.  He  rushed  from  the  lodge,  j-elled  a  Sioux 
war-cry.  shouted  his  name  in  triumph  and  defiance,  and 
darted  out  upon  the  dark  prairie,  leaving  the  whole  village 
behind  him  in  a  tumult,  with  the  howling  and  baying  of 


GO 


THE    ORFXiON    TRAIL. 


dogs,  ilic  scrcnms  of  women,  and  tlio  yells  of  the  enraf^ed 
Avarriors. 

Our  IVieiid  Kearslcv,  as  Ave  learned  on  reioiiiinii' liim, 
sijxnalized  liiniscU'  hv  a  less  l)loodv  acliievenient.  Jle  and 
his  men  were  good  woodsmen,  well  skdled  in  Ihe  use  of 
the  rille,  but  found  themselves  wholly  onlol'  their  element 
on  the  ])raii-ie.  None  ol'  them  had  ever  seen  a  hulliilo  ; 
and  thev  had  verv  vauuc  conecidions  of  his  miture  and 
appearance.  On  the  day  after  tlicy  reached  the  Platte, 
looking  towards  a  distant  swell,  they  beheld  a  nndtitudo 
of  little  black  s})ecks  in  motion  n].on  its  snrfacc. 

"  TalvC  yonr  lilles,  boys,"  said  Kearslcy,  "  and  we'll 
liave  fresh  meat  for  snpper."  This  indncement  was  quite 
sufiicient.  The  ten  men  left  their  wagons,  and  set  out  in 
liot  haste,  some  on  horseback  and  some  on  foot,  in  ])nrsnit 
of  the  supposed  buffalo.  Meanwhile  a  high,  grassy  ridge 
shut  the  game  from  view  ;  but  mounting  it  after  half  an 
hour's  running  and  riding,  they  found  themselves  suddeidy 
confronted  by  about  thirty  mounted  Pawnees.  Amaze- 
ment and  consternation  were  mutual.  Having  nothing  but 
their  bows  and  arrows,  the  Indians  thought  their  hour  was 
come,  and  the  fate  that  they  were  conscious  of  richly 
deserving  al)out  to  overtake  them.  So  they  began,  one 
and  all,  to  shout  forth  the  most  cordial  salutations,  run- 
ning up  with  extreme  earnestness  to  shake  hands  with 
the  ]\Iissourians,  who  were  as  much  rejoiced  as  they  were 
to  escape  the  expected  conflict. 

A  low,  undulating  line  of  sand-hills  bounded  the  horizon 
before  us.  That  day  we  rode  ten  hours,  and  it  was  dusk 
before  we  entered  the  hollows  and  gorges  of  these  gloomy 
little  hills.  At  length  we  gained  the  summit,  and  the 
long-exi)ected  valley  of  the  Platte  lay  before  us.  We  all 
drew  rein,  and  sat  joyfully  looking  down  ujjon  the  pros- 
pect.    It  was  right  welcome ,  strange,  too,  and  striking 


THE    PLATTE    AND    THE    DLSERT. 


61 


I 

I 


to  tlio  iinuu'i nation,  and  yet  it  liad  not  one  pictnrcsquc  or 
boantilnl  t'calnrc  ;  nor  hail  it  any  ol'  the  Iratnics  of  n-i-an- 
denr,  (jtlicr  than  its  vast  extent,  its  solitude,  and  i(s  wild- 
ness.  F(jr  league  after  league,  a  plain  as  IcncI  as  a  lake 
was  outspread  beneath  us;  here  and  there  the  I'lattc, 
divide(l  int(j  a  dozen  threaddikc  sluices,  was  traversing"  it, 
and  an  occasional  clump  ol"  wood,  rising  in  the  midst  like 
a  shadowy  island,  relieved  the  monotony  of  the  waste.  No 
living  thing  was  moving-  throughout  the  vast  !;!ndsca|)G, 
except  the  lizards  that  dai'ted  over  the  sand  and  through 
the  rank  grass  and  prickly  jjcar^  at  our  lect. 

We  hail  passed  the  more  tedious  ])ari  of  tlu;  journey; 
Init  I'our  hundred  miles  still  inferNcned  between  us  and 
Fort  Laramie  ;  and  to  reach  that  point  cost  us  the  travel 
of  three  more  weeks.  During  the  whole  of  this  time  wo 
were  j)assing  uj)  the  middle  of  a  long,  nai'row,  sandy  jilain, 
reachinu'  like  an  outstretched  belt  nearly  to  the  liocky 
Mountains.  Two  lines  of  sand-hills,  broken  often  into 
the  wildest  and  most  fantastic  forms,  flanked  the  valley 
at  the  distance  of  a  nnle  or  two  on  the  right  and  left; 
while  beyond  them  lay  a  barren,  trackless  waste,  extend- 
ing for  hundreds  of  miles  to  the  Arkansas  on  the  one 
side,  and  the  ^lissouri  on  the  other.  Jjelbre  and  behind 
us,  the  level  monotony  of  the  plain  was  unbroken  as  I'ar 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  Sometimes  it  glared  in  the  sun, 
an  expanse  of  hot,  bare  sand;  sometimes  it  was  veiled 
by  long  coarse  grass.  Skulls  and  whitening  bones  of 
buffalo  were  scattered  everywhere ;  the  ground  was 
tracked  by  myriads  of  them,  and  often  covered  with  the 
circular  indentations  where  the  bulls  had  wallowed  in  the 
hot  weather.  From  every  gorge  and  ravine,  o})ening 
from  the  hills,  descended  deep,  well-worn  paths,  where 
the  Ijulfalo  issue  twice  a  day  in  regular  })rocession  to 
drink  in  the  Platte.     The  river  itself  runs  through  the 


02 


THE    OllEGON    Til  AIL. 


iiii(]st,  a  tliiii  slieot,  of  ni[ii(l.  itirhid  walcr,  linlf  a  mile 
wide,  and  .scarcely  two  feet  deep.  Its  low  baid<s,  lor  the 
most  jiart  without  a  hush  or  a  tree,  are  of  hjose  stiiid, 
with  which  tlie  strenni  is  so  chiii'ged  that  it  iiirutes  on  the 
teeth  in  driidcing'.  The  nailed  landscape  is,  of  itself, 
dreary  and  monotonous  enougii ;  and  yet  the  wild  beasts 
Jind  wild  m  i  tlui>  Ivcq 'cnt  the  valley  of  the  Tlatte  malce 
.  it  a  -icenc  of  .  'f  •  vl  a.id  excitement  to  the  traveller.  Of 
those  whr.  lui  ■'  !>m  -leycd  there,  scarcely  one,  pei-luips, 
i;i lis  to  look  baciv  with  '  ud  regret  to  his  horse  and  his 
rifle. 

Early  in  the  morning  after  wc  reached  the  Platte,  a 
long  procession  of  sijualid  savages  ap})roached  our  camp. 
Each  was  on  foot,  leading  his  hoi'sc  by  a  rojie  of  bull-hide. 
J  lis  attire  consisted  merely  of  a  scanty  cincture,  and  an 
old  bulliilo  robe,  tattered  and  begrimed  by  use,  which 
hung  over  his  shoulders.  His  head  was  close  shaven, 
except  a  ridge  of  hair  reaching  over  the  crown  from  the 
middle  of  the  forehead,  vc''  much  like  the  long  Itristles 
on  the  liack  of  a  hyena,  and  he  carried  his  bow  and 
arrows  in  his  hand,  while  his  meagre  little  horse  was 
laden  with  dried  buffalo  meat,  the  produce  of  his  hunting. 
Such  were  the  first  specimens  that  we  met  —  and  very 
indifferent  ones  they  \\erc  —  of  the  genuine  savages  of 
the  [)rairie. 

They  were  the  Pawnees  whom  Kearsley  had  encoun- 
tered the  day  before,  and  belonged  to  a  large  hunting 
party,  known  to  be  ranging  the  prairie  in  the  vicinity. 
They  strode  rapiiUy  l)y,  within  a  furlong  of  our  tents,  not 
])ansing  or  looking  towards  ns,  after  the  manner  of  In- 
dians when  meditating  mischief,  or  conscious  of  ill  desert. 
1  went  out  to  meet  them,  and  had  an  amicable  conference 
with  the  chief,  presenting  hhn  ^vith  half  a  jiound  of 
tobacco,  at  which  mimcrited  bounty  he  expressed  much 


••f 


i 


THE    rLAITE    AND    THE     DESERT. 


63 


as 
ivy 


lot 
In- 

)Vt. 

ICC 
of 
ich 


I 


gratilicalion.  Tliose  (Mlows,  or  some  of  their  com- 
jiaiiious,  had  coiumittc'd  a  dastardly  otitra.uv  upon  ;m 
Ciiiigraiit  i»{irty  h'  advance  of  us.  Two  men,  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  icst,  were  seized  by  them,  l)ut,  lashing" 
their  horse  ,  tliey  ))roke  away  and  fled.  At  this  tho 
Piwnees  raised  the  yell  iind  shot  at  them,  traiislixin}^  the 
liindmost  tlirough  tju^  liack  with  several  arrows,  while  his 
companion  giilloped  away  and  brought  in  the  news  to  his 
party.  'J'he  j)anic-stricken  emigrants  remained  for  several 
days  in  camp,  not  daring  even  to  send  or  bi  (piest  of 
the  dead  body. 

Our  New-Kngland  climate  is  mild  an  e(M,,  ;  le  eom- 
pai'ed  with  that  of  the  J'latte.  This  ■  y  lorning,  for 
instance,  was  close  and  sultry,  the  sun  lisiir  with  a  faint 
oppressive  heat ;  when  suddenly  darkiK  griiered  in  the 
west,  and  a  furious  blast  of  sleet  and  liail  drove  full  in 
our  faces,  Icy  cold,  and  urged  with  such  demoniac  vehe- 
mence that  it  felt  like  a  storm  of  needles.  It  was  curious 
to  see  the  horses ;  they  faced  about  in  extreme  dis- 
pleasure, holding  their  tails  like  whii)ped  dogs,  and  shiv- 
ering as  the  angry  gusts,  howling  louder  tluvn  a  concert 
of  Avolves,  swe})t  over  us.  Wright's  long  train  of  mules 
came  sweeping  round  before  the  storm,  like  a  flight  of 
snow-birds  driven  by  a  winter  temjiest.  Thus  we  all 
remained  stationary  for  some  minutes,  crouching  close  to 
our  horses'  necks,  much  too  surly  to  s})eak,  though  once 
the  Captain  looked  u})  from  between  the  collars  of  his 
coat,  his  face  hlood-red,  and  the  muscles  of  his  mouth 
contracted  by  the  cold  into  a  most  ludicrous  grin  of 
agony.  He  grumbled  something  that  sounded  like  a 
curse,  directed,  as  we  believed,  against  the  unha[)py  hour 
when  he  had  first  thought  of  leaving  home.  The  thing 
was  too  good  to  last  long;  and  the  instant  the  jiuffs  of 
wind  subsided  we  pitched  our  tents,  and  remained   in 


Ai 


64 


Tllli    ()U1:G()N    THAU,. 


cnmi)  for  llic  rest  of  a  gloomy  ninl  lowcriiiu;  day.  Tlio 
ciuigniiits  also  ciicaiupctl  near  at  hand.  Wc  hciii^  (irst 
on  tli(!  ground,  luid  a|)|»roj)i'iidLMl  idl  iIk^  wood  within 
rcacli ;  so  tliat  (»ur  lii'c  idonc  hhi/.c.'d  cheerily.  Around  it 
soon  gathered  a  gronp  of  nneonth  figures,  shivering  in 
the  di'izzling  rain.  Conspicnons  among  tluMn  wei'e  I  wo 
or  three  of  th(!  half-savage  men  who  sjxjnd  their  reckless 
lives  in  trapping  among  the  Rocky  Moinitains,  or  in  trad- 
ing for  the  Fur  Company  in  the  Indian  villages.  They 
were  all  (jf  Canadian  extraction;  their  hard,  weather- 
beaten  faces  and  bushy  moustaches  looked  out  from 
beneath  the  hoods  of  their  white  ea[)otes  with  a  bad  and 
brutish  expression,  as  if  their  owners  might  he  the  willing 
agents  of  any  villany.  And  such  in  fact  is  the  character 
of  many  of  these  men. 

On  the  day  following  wc  overtook  Kearsley's  wagons, 
and  tlienceforward,  for  a  week  or  two,  we  were  fellow- 
travellers.  One  good  cflect,  at  least,  resulted  from  the 
alliance;  it  materially  diminished  tlu;  fatigues  of  stand- 
ing guard  ;  for  the  party  being  now  more  numerous,  there 
were  longer  intervals  between  each  man's  turns  of  duty. 


'I 


CHAPTER    VII. 


TIIH     nUFFALO. 


liul- 


^ 


C^OUR  days  oil  the  I'lutle,  luid  yet  no  hul'lalo !  Last 
•*-  year's  signs  of  tlunn  were  provokiiigly  al)un(laiii  ; 
and  wood  l)cin<^  extremely  scarce,  wo  Ibnnd  an  admirable 
substitute  in  the  lioii  tie  vdche,  which  burns  like  i)eat,  ])ro- 
ducinj^  no  uni)leasant  elfects.  The  wagons  one  morning 
had  left  the  camp ;  Shaw  and  I  were  already  on  horse- 
back, but  Ilenry  Chatillon  still  sat  cross-legged  by  the 
dead  cmltcrs  of  tlie  lire,  playing  pensively  with  the  lock 
of  his  rifle,  while  his  sturdy  Wyandot  pony  stood  (luietly 
l)ehind  him,  looking  over  his  head.  At  last  lie  got  up, 
patted  the  neck  of  the  pony  (which,  from  an  exagger- 
ated appreciation  of  his  merits,  he  hatl  christened  "  Five 
Hundred  Dollar"),  and  then  mounted,  with  a  melancholy 
air. 

"  What  is  it,  Ilenry  ?  " 

"  Ah,  I  feel  lonesome  ;  I  never  been  here  before  but  I 
see  away  yonder  over  the  buttes,  and  down  there  on  the 
prairie,  black  —  all  black  with  bnfTalo." 

In  the  afternoon  he  and  I  left  the  party  in  search  of 
an  antelope,  nntil,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two  on  the 
right,  the  tall  white  wagons  and  the  little  black  specks  of 
horsemen  were  just  visible,  so  slowly  advancing  that  they 
seemed  motionless  ;  and  far  on  the  left  rose  the  broken 
line  of  scorched,  desolate  sand-hills.  The  vast  plain 
waved  with  tall  rank  grass,  that  swept  our  horses'  bellies  ; 


ill 

Hi; 


HM 


C)(\ 


Tlin    OUIXJON     IIIAIL. 


^ 


it  HNViiy('(l  to  mid  IVo  in  liiilows  with  tlic  liulit  \nvm%  iiii<l 
I'ar  iiii<l  iiciir  juilclniic  iiinl  wolves  were  iuo\  inn*  tlinmuli 
it,  the  Iiiiiry  Itiicks  ol'  tlir  liillcr  iiilciiiMtciy  ii|»|i('iu'iiiii'  iiml 
disM|>|»('iU'iii'i'  ns  tlicy  honiuictl  jvwkwiinlly  nloiiu' ;  wliilr  I  lie 
nnt('lo|i(',  with  the  Hiin|ile  curiosity  pci'iiliiii'  t(»  thcin.  would 
ol'icM  niiproiicii  us  closely,  their  little  horns  iiiid  while 
Ihi'onts  just  visihle  iii»ov(>  th(!  ^'rass  tops,  as  they  ^'a/jMl 
caii'erlv  at  us  with  their  round  hiack  eves. 

1  disniomdetl,  and  amused  niyself  with  lirini:!;  at  the 
wolves.  Henry  attentively  scrutinizeil  the  stn'i'oundinu; 
hindscaj)c;  at  leu«ith  ho  p;av(^  a  shout,  and  called  on  nic 
to  mount  auain,  pointiuL!;  in  the  din'ctioii  ol"  the  sand- 
lulls.  A  mile  ami  a  hall'  IVoni  us  two  Mack  specks 
Blowly  triivorscd  tlu;  hare  ^larin^  face  of  one  of  them, 
and  (lisappear<Ml  hehind  the  suuuuit.  ''Let  us  uo  I " 
cried  Henry,  helahorinji;  the  sides  of  ''  Five  lliuidred  Dol- 
lar; "  and  I  lollowinn'  in  his  wake,  we  ;4'alh>p*'"'  Vapidly 
throu<ih  the  rank  grass  toward  the  hase  of  the  hills. 

From  one  of  their  opening.s  descended  a  deep  ravine, 
widening  as  it  issued  on  the  prairie.  W'v  entereil  it,  and 
galloping  up,  in  a  moment  were  surrounded  i»y  the  Ideak 
sand-hills.  Half  of  their  stecj)  sides  wei'c;  hai'e  :  the  rest 
were  scantily  clothe(l  with  (dumj)s  of  grass,  and  \arious 
uncouth  ])lants,  consjticuous  among  which  ap|)eared  the 
reptile-like  ))rickly-pear.  They  were  gashed  with  numher- 
less  ravines  ;  and  as  the  sky  had  suddeidy  dai'kened,  and 
ji  cold  gusty  wind  arisen,  the  strange  shruhs  and  the  di-eary 
hills  looked  douhly  wild  and  desolate.  But  Henry's  face 
was  all  eagerness.  He  tore  off  a  little  hair  from  the 
piece  of  hulfalo-rohe  under  his  saddle,  and  threw  it  up,  to 
show  the  course  of  the  wind.  It  hlew  directly  heforc  us. 
The  game  were  therefore  to  windward,  and  it  was  neces- 
sary to  make  our  l)cst  speed  to  get  round  them. 

We  scramliled  from  this  ravine,  and,  galloping  away 


Tin;  uurFAi.o. 


07 


t " 


wmo, 
.  11  ud 
l)li"a.k 
('  rest 

.1  the 
inl)tM*- 
l.  and 

face 
u  the 
up,  to 
I) re  us. 
Ineccs- 

away 


tliroULdi  till'  linlldws.  soon  fnuiid  another.  windiiiL'  lil\(^  a 
snake  ainoii'jf  llic  hills,  and  so  (1(M'|i  that  il  conipli'tcly  eon- 
ceuled  ns.  Wi-  rode  up  the  Itotloni  of  it,  'jlancinu'  tlironuh 
th<'  hushes  at  lis  e(|n(.,  jil|  Iloiiry  ahruptly  jerked  his 
rein,  and  slid  lail  of  his  saddle.  Full  a  tpnirler  of  a  niilo 
dislanl.  on  the  onllint'  of  the  fartiicst  hill,  a  loni>'  proces- 
sion, of  hnlfalo  were  walkinju',  in  Indian  lile,  with  the 
utmost  jrravity  and  (hdiheration  ;  then  more  appeared, 
(damlM'i'iirn'  from  a  hollow  not  far  off.  and  aseen<lin,u',  one 
behind  the  other,  tlic  jrrassy  slope  of  another  hill  ;  then  a 
shatiuy  head  and  a  j»air  of  short  ln'oken  liorns  issued 
f)nt  of  a  ravine  close  at  hainl,  and  with  a  slow,  stattdy 
step,  one  hy  one,  the  enormous  brutes  ciime  into  n  iew, 
taking'  their  way  aeross  th(^  valley,  wholly  nnconseiouH 
of  an  enemy.  In  a  monuMit  Henry  was  woi'mim;'  hirt 
way,  lyinn'  flat  on  tlie  f>;ronnd,  thronuh  u'rass  and  ))i'i('kly- 
[)eai's,  towards  his  unsnspeetinu;  victims.  JIc  had  with 
him  hoth  my  rifl(!  and  his  own.  Jh'  was  soon  out  of 
siu'lit.  and  still  the  hnffalo  kejit  issuinji:  into  th(>  valley. 
Foi' a  lonu' time  all  "was  silent;  1  sat  holdin<z  his  horse, 
and  wouderinii'  what  he  was  about,  when  snddenly,  in 
rapid  succession,  came  the  sharj)  re|)orts  of  tlie  two  rilles, 
and  the  wliole  line  of  buffalo,  (piiekening  their  pain;  into 
a  elnmsy  ti'ot,  <rradnally  disappeared  over  the  riiji^'e  of 
the  hill.  Henry  rose  to  his  feet,  and  stood  lookinj^  after 
them. 

"  You  have  missed  them,"  said  I. 

"  ^'<'s,"  said  Henry;  "let  us  go."  lie  descended  into 
the  raJne,  loaded  the  rifles,  and  mounted  his  horse. 

We  r"de  up  the  hill  after  the  hnffalo.  The  herd  was 
out  of  sight  when  we  reached  the  toj),  but  lying  o:i  *ho 
grass,  not  far  off,  was  one  quite  lifidess,  and  an(^fh(M'  vio- 
lentlv  struguliuir  in  the  death  agonv. 


a 


You  see  I  miss  him!"  remarked  Henry.     He  had 


68 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


fired  from  a  distance  of  more  than  a  hundred  and  fifty 
yards,  and  both  l)alls  liad  passed  through  thf'  lungs,  the 
true  mark  in  shooting  buffalo. 

The  darkness  increased,  and  a  driving  storm  came  on. 
Tying  our  horses  to  the  horns  of  the  victims,  Ilenry  began 
tlie  bloody  work  of  dissection,  slashing  away  with  tlie 
science  of  a  connoisseur,  while  1  vainly  tried  to  imitate 
him.  Old  IFendrick  recoiled  with  horror  and  indignation 
wben  1  endeavored  to  tie  the  meat  to  the  strings  of  raw 
hide,  always  carried  for  this  purpose,  dangling  at  the 
back  of  the  saddle.  After  some  difficulty  we  overcame 
his  scruples;  and, heavily  burdened  with  the  more  eligible 
portions  of  the  Iniffalo,  we  set  out  on  our  return.  Scarcely 
had  we  emerged  from  the  labyrinth  of  gorges  and  ravines, 
and  issued  upon  the  open  prairie,  when  the  jn'ickling  sleet 
came  driving,  gust  upon  gust,  directly  in  our  fLices.  It 
was  strangely  dark,  though  wanting  still  an  liour  of  sun- 
set. The  freezing  storm  soon  penetrated  to  the  skin,  but 
the  uneasy  trot  of  our  heavy-gaited  horses  kej)t  us  warm' 
enough,  as  we  forced  them  unwillingly  in  the  teeth  of 
the  dect  and  rain,  by  the  powerful  suasion  of  our  Indian 
v/hips.  The  prairie  in  this  place  was  hard  and  level.  A 
flourishing  colony  of  prairie-dogs  had  burrowed  into  it  in 
every  direction,  and  the  little  mounds  of  fresh  earth 
around  tiieir  holes  were  about  as  numerous  as  the  hills  in 
a  corn-field  ;  but  not  a  yelp  was  to  be  heard  ;  not  the 
nose  of  a  single  citizen  was  visible;  all  had  retired  to  the 
depths  cf  their  burrows,  and  we  envied  them  their  dry 
and  comfortable  habitations.  An  hour's  hard  riding 
shovred  us  our  tent  dimly  looming  through  the  storm,  one 
side  pufli'd  out  by  the  force  of  the  wind,  and  the  other 
collapsed  in  pro]iortion,  while  the  disconsolate  horses 
stood  shivering  close  around,  and  the  wind  kept  up  a  dis- 
mal whistling  in  the  boughs  of  three  old  half-dead  trees 


4 


w 


m 


THE    BUTKALO. 


69 


fifty 
,  the 

3  on. 

cgau 

.  the 

litate 

ation 
raw 

t  the 

■came 

io'iblc 

ircely 

vines, 

r  sleet 

:s.     It 

f  sun- 

hi,  but 
warm 
th  of 
ndian 
I.     A 
o  it  in 
earth 
ills  in 
ot  the 
to  the 
ir  dry 
Iriding 
^n, one 
other 
Ihorscs 
a  dis- 
trees 


I 


above.  Shaw,  like  a  patriarch,  sat  on  liis  saddle  in  the 
entrance,  with  a  \n\iO  in  his  mouth  and  liis  arms  'olded, 
contem])latiug-,  willi  cool  satisfaction,  the  jiiles  of  meat 
that  ^vc  Hung  on  the  ground  beibre  him.  A  (hirk  and 
dreary  night  succeeded  ;  but  the  sun  rose,  with  a  heat  so 
sultry  and  languid  that  tlie  Captain  excused  himself  on 
that  account  IVom  waylaying  an  old  buflalo  bull,  who 
with  stupid  gravity  was  walking  over  the  i)rairic  to  driidc 
at  the  river.     So  much  for  the  climate  of  the  Platte. 

JUit  it  was  not  the  weather  alone  that  had  ju-oduced 
this  sudden  abatement  of  the  s})ortsman-like  zeal  which 
the  Captain  had  always  professed.  He  had  l)cen  out  on 
the  afternoon  before,  together  with  several  members  of 
liis  party:  but  their  hunting  was  attended  with  no  other 
result  than  the  loss  of  one  of  their  best  horses,  severely 
injured  by  Sorel,  in  vainly  chasing  a  wounded  bull.  The 
Captain,  whose  ideas  of  hard  riding  were  all  derived  from 
transatlantic  sources,  expressed  the  utmost  amazement 
at  the  feats  of  Sorel,  who  went  leaping  ravines,  and  dash- 
ing at  full  s))eed  up  and  down  the  sides  of  precipitous 
hills,  lashing  his  horse  with  the  recklessness  of  a  Rocky 
Mountain  rider.  Unfortunately  for  the  poor  animal,  lie 
was  the  projierty  of  11 ,  against  whom  Sorel  enter- 
tained an  unbounded  aversion.  The  Captain  himself,  it 
seemed,  liad  also  attempted  to  "  run "  a  bulfalo,  but 
though  a  good  and  practised  horseman,  he  had  soon  given 
over  the  attempt,  being  astonished  and  utterly  disgusted 
at  the  nature  of  the  ground  he  was  reipiired  to  ride  over. 

"  Here's  old  Fapin  and  Frederic,  down  from  Fort  Lar- 
amie," shouted  Henry,  as  we  returned  from  a  recon- 
noitring tour  on  the  next  morning.  We  had  for  some 
days  expected  this  encounter.  Pajiin  was  the  huiur/rois, 
or  "  boss,"  of  Fort  Laramie.  He  had  come  down  the 
river  with  the  buflalo-robes  and  the  beaver,  the  produce 


il 


70 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


m 


of  tlic  last,  winter's  tradiiij^'.  I  had  uiuonj^  our  bii^u'2,age  a 
leltei'  whicli  1  wislicd  to  coiniiiit  to  their  hands;  so  re- 
questing Henry  to  detain  the  boats  it'  he  eouhl  until  my 
return,  1  set  out  after  the  wagons.  They  were  about 
lour  miles  in  advanee.  In  hall"  an  hour  1  overtook  them, 
got  the  letter,  trotted  baek  upon  the  trail,  and  looking 
carefully,  as  I  rode,  saw  a  pat  eh  of  broken  storm-blasted 
trees,  ;ind,  moving  ucar  them,  some  little  black  s})ecks 
like  men  and  horses.  Arriving  at  the  })laee,  1  found  a 
strange  assembly.  The  boats,  eleven  in  number,  deep- 
laden  with  the  skins,  hugged  close  to  the  shoi'e,  to  escape 
being  l)orne  down  by  the  swift  current.  Tlu^  rowers, 
swarthy  ignoble  Mexicans,  turned  their  brutish  faces 
upwards  to  look,  as  I  reached  the  bank.  ra[)in  sat  in  the 
mi^ldle  of  (jne  of  the  ))oats,  upon  the  canvas  covering  that 
protected  (he  cargo.  lie  was  a  stout,  robust  fellow,  with 
a  littl(!  gray  eye,  that  had  a  ])eeuliarly  sly  twinkle. 
"  Frederic,"  also,  stretched  his  tall  raw-boned  ])r()portions 
close  by  the  hourgcois,  and  "  mountain  men  "  com})leted 
the  group:  some  lounging  in  the  boats,  some  strolling  on 
shore  :  some  attired  in  gayly-])ainted  buH'alo  robes,  like 
Indian  dandies  ;  some  with  hair  saturated  with  red  paint, 
and  plastered  with  glue  to  their  temples  ;  and  one 
bedaubed  with  vermilion  u})Oii  the  forehead  and  each 
cheek.  They  were  a  mongrel  race;  yet  the  French  blood 
seemed  to  j)i'edomiiuite  :  in  a  few,  indeed,  might  l)e  seen 
the  black  snaky  eye  of  the  Indian  half-breed,  and,  one 
and  all,  they  seemed  to  aim  at  assimilating  themselves 
'to  their  red  associates. 

1  shook  hands  with  the  honrgeoh^  and  delivered  the 
letter:  then  the  boats  swung  round  into  the  stream  and 
floated  away.  They  had  reason  for  haste,  for  already 
the  voyage  from  Fort  Laramie  had  occu})ied  a  full  month, 
and   the   river  was  growing  daily  more  shallow.     Fifty 


i 


1 


J.!:.': 


THE    BUFFALO. 


71 


oca 

)  rc- 
iny 

ibout 

hem, 

)kini^ 

asU.'d 

pecks 

lud  a 

decp- 

iscape 

)wcrs, 
liiccs 

in  the 

ig  that 

,',  with 

vinkle. 

)i-ti()ns 

ipleted 
uig  on 

!S,  like 
paint, 

id  one 
I  each 
1  blood 
|)e  seen 
fd,  one 
iiselves 

led  the 
Ivui  and 
i\lrcady 
Inionth, 
Fifty 


tini(>s  a  diiy  the  l)oat.s  had  been  agmund  ;  indeed,  those 
who  naviu'iile  the  I'latte  invariably  sjjend  half  their  time 
n[)ou  sand-bars.  Two  of  these  boats,  llie  property  of 
private  traders,  afterwards  separatin*"'  from  the  rest,  got 
hopelessly  inv(;lve(l  in  the  shallows,  not  very  far  from  the 
I'awiiee  vilbiu'es,  and  were  soon  snrronnded  l)y  a  swarm 
(il"  the  iuhal)itants.  They  carried  off  ev(!ry  thing  that 
they  thoiiulit  vahia!)le,  inclnding  most  of  the  rol;es  ;  and 
amused  iheinselv(!s  by  tying  np  the  men  left  on  guard, 
and  siiuudly  whipping  them  witli  sticks. 

We  eneainped  that  night  upon  the  l)ank  of  tlie  river. 
Amoug  th(3  enugrants  was  an  overgrown  boy,  some 
eighteen  years  old,  witli  a  head  as  round  and  al)ont  as 
large  as  a  piim])kin,  and  fever-and-ague  tits  had  dyed  his 
face  of  a  corresponding  color,  lie  wore;  an  old  winte  hat, 
tieil  under  his  chin  with  a  handkerclnef ;  his  body  was 
short  aud  stout,  but  his  legs  were  of  disproportioned  and 
appalliug  lengtli.  1  observed  h.im  at  sunset,  breasting 
the  hill  with  gigairtic  strides,  and  standing  against  the 
sky  On  the  sunnnit,  like  a  colossal  pair  of  tongs.  In  a 
momeut  after  we  lieard  him  screaming  franticallv  behind 
the  ridge,  and  nothing  donbting  that  he  was  in  the 
chitches  of  Indians  or  grizzly  bears,  some  of  the  party 
caught  u[)  their  rilles  and  ran  to  the  i-escue.  His  out- 
cries, liowever,  were  but  an  cbnllition  of  joyons  excite- 
ment :  he  had  chased  two  wolf  pnps  to  their  l)urrow,  and 
was  ou  his  knees,  grubbing  away  like  a  dog  at  the  month 
of  the  hole,  to  get  at  them. 

JJeforc  morning  he  caused  more  serions  discpuet  in  the 
camp.  It  was  his  turn  to  liold  the  middle-guard  ;  i)ut  no 
sooner  was  he  called  np  than  he  coolly  arranged  a  })air 
of  saddle-bags  under  a  wag(>n,  laid  his  head  upon  them, 
closc('  his  eyes,  opened  his  month,  and  lell  aslee[).  The 
guard  on  our  side  of  the  camp,  thinking  it  no  [)art  oi'  his 


72 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


duty  to  look  after  tlic  cattle  of  the  emigrants,  contented 
liimself  Avitli  watching  our  own  horses  and  mules  ;  the 
wolves,  he  said,  were  unusually  noisy  ;  but  still  no  mis- 
chief was  anticii»ated  until  the  sun  rose,  when  not  a  hoof 
or  horn  was  in  sight.  The  cattle  were  gone.  While 
Tom  was  quietly  slumbering,  the  wolves  had  driven  them 
away. 

Then  we  reaped  the  fruits  of   R 's  ])reci()us  plan 

of  travelling  in  comj)any  with  emigrants.  To  leave  them 
in  their  distress  was  not  to  be  thought  of,  and  we  I'elt 
bound  to  wait  until  the  cattle  could  be  searched  for,  and, 
if  })ossible,  recovered.  But  the  reader  may  be  curious  to 
know  what  })unishment  awaited  the  faithless  I'om.  By 
the  wholesome  law  of  the  prairie,  he  who  falls  asleep  on 
guard  is  condenmed  to  walk  all  day,  leading  his  horse  by 
the  bridle  ;  {ind  we  Ibund  nmch  fault  with  our  companions 
for  not  enforcing  such  a  sentence  on  the  offender.  Never- 
theless, had  he  lieen  of  our  own  party,  1  have  no  doubt 
that  he  would  in  like  manner  hav(!  escaped  scot-free. 
But  the  emigrants  wc.it  farther  than  mere  forbearance : 
they  decreed  that  since  Tom  couldn't  stand  guard  without 
falling  asleep,  he  shouldn't  stand  guard  at  all,  and  hence- 
forward his  slumbei's  were  unbroken.  Establishing  such 
a  premium  on  drowsiness  could  have  no  very  beneficial 
effect  upon  the  vigilance  of  our  sentinels  ;  for  it  is  far 
from  agreealile,  after  riding  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  to 
feel  your  slnmliers  interrupted  by  the  but  of  a  ritie  nudg- 
ing your  side,  and  a  sleei»y  voice  growling  in  your  ear 
that  you  nnist  get  up,  to  shiver  and  freeze  for  three 
weary  hours  at  midnighi:. 

"Buffalo:  buflah)!"  It  was  but  a  grim  old  Imll, 
roaming  the  prairie  by  himself  in  misanthropic  seclusion  ; 
but  there  might  be  more  behind  the  hills.  Dreading  the 
i.ionotony  and  1:  nguor  of  the  camp,  Shaw  and  1  saddled 


-..1 


THE    BUFFALO. 


73 


ludg- 
l  car 

lu'ce 

IbuU, 
lion ; 
the 
idled 


our  liorsos,  br.cklod  our  liolstcrs  in  tlieir  places,  and  set 
out  witli  llci'ry  Chatillon  in  scarcli  oi'  the  game.  Henry, 
not  inicndiDg  to  taI<o  part  in  the  chase,  hut  merely  con- 
ducting us,  carried  his  rifle  with  liini,  while  we  left  ours 
beliind  as  iucumbrances.  We  rode  for  some  live  or  six 
miles,  and  saw  no  living  thing  but  wolves,  snakes,  and 
))rairie-dogs. 

''  This  won't  do  at  all,"  waid  Shaw. 

'^AVhat  won't  do?" 

"  There's  no  wood  about  here  to  make  a  litter  lor  the 
wounded  man:  1  have  an  idea  that  one  of  us  will  need 
something  of  the  sort  before  the  day  is  over." 

There  was  some  foundation  for  such  an  idea,  for  the 
ground  was  noin2  of  the  best  for  a  race,  and  grew  worse 
continually  as  we  proceeded ;  indeed,  it  soon  became 
desperately  bad,  consisting  of  abrupt  hills  and  deep 
hollows,  cut  by  frequent  ravines  not  easy  to  pass.  At 
length,  a  mile  in  advance,  we  saw  a  band  of  bulls. 
Some  were  scattered  grazing  over  a  gieen  decli^  ity, 
while  the  rest  were  crowded  together  in  the  wide  hollow 
below.  Making  a  circuit,  to  keep  out  of  sight,  we  rode 
towards  them,  until  we  ascended  a  hill,  within  a  furlong 
of  them,  Ijeyond  which  nothing  intervened  t'  t  could  pos- 
sibly screen  us  from  their  view.  We  disi.  nted  behind 
the  ridge,  just  out  of  sight,  drew  our  sadiH  births,  exam- 
ined our  pistols,  and  mounting  again,  rod''  over  the  hill, 
and  descended  at  a  canter  towards  them,  >iiding  close  to 
our  horses'  necks.  Instantly  they  took  alarm  :  those 
on  the  hill  descended,  those  Ixdow  gathercu  into  a  mass,  and 
the  whole  got  into  motion,  shouldering  ea(di  other  along 
at  a  clumsy  gallop.  We  followed,  spurrinu-  oui-  horses  to 
full  s{)eed  ;  and  as  the  herd  rushed,  crowding  and  tramp- 
ling in  terror  through  an  opening  in  the  liills,  we  were 
close  at  their  heels,  half  suffocated  by  the  (  i  uds  of  dust. 


74 


THE    OIIEGON     TllAIL. 


w. 


But  as  \vc  drew  neai',  (licir  aliinii  iiinl  sjx'ctl  increascid  ; 
our  lioi'ses,  bcMUij,'  now  t(j  lh<(  work,  showed  siuiis  of  the 
utmost  Ibar,  bouiUiiii^"  violently  aside  as  we  ajiproaclied, 
and  refusing"  to  entei'  anion<;'  tlie  lierd.  The  Imflido  now 
broke;  into  several  small  bodies,  sca,m])Orin;^'  over  the  hills 
in  dil'H'i'cnt  dii'eetions,  and  1  lost  sitiiil  of  Shaw;  neither 
of  us  knew  w  hei'c  the  other  had  <>'one.  Old  Pontiac  ran 
like  a  fi'aiitie  elephant  up  hill  and  down  hill,  his  ponder- 
ous hoofs  sti'ikin<;'  the  praii'ie  like  sled<i'e-hammers.  IJe 
sliowed  a  curious  mixture  of  eauerness  and  terror,  strain- 
ing to  gvcrtake  the  panic-stricken  herd,  l)ut  constantly 
recoilinu'  in  dismav  as  we  drew  near.  The  fugitives, 
indeed,  otfered  Jio  very  attractive  spectacle,  with  their 
shaggy  manes  and  the  tattered  remnants  of  their  last 
winter's  r.air  C(jvei"ing  their  backs  in  irregular  shreds  and 
patches,  and  flying  oil"  in  the  wind  as  they  ran.  At  length 
I  urgXMJ  my  horse  close  behind  a  bull,  and  after  trying  in 
vain,  by  blows  and  spurring,  to  bring  him  alongside,  I 
tired  ironi  this  disadvantageous  position.  At  the  report 
Pontiac  swerved  so  nnicli  that  J  was  again  thrown  a 
little  behind  tlui  game.  'J'he  bullet,  entering  too  much 
in  the  rear,  failed  to  disable  the  l)ull  ;  for  a  bullalo 
re(iuires  !j  be  shot  at  particular  points,  or  he  will  cer- 
tainly escape.  The  herd  ran  up  a  hill,  and  1  followed  in 
])ursuit.  As  Pontiac  rushed  headlong  down  on  the  other 
side,  I  saw  Shaw  and  Henry  descending  the  hollow  on 
the  right,  at  a  leisurely  gallop;  and  in  front,  the  buffalo 
were  Just  disappearing  behind  the  crest  of  the  next  hill, 
their  short  tails  erect,  and  their  hoofs  twinkling  through 
a  cloud  of  dust. 

At  that  moment  I  heard  Shaw  and  Henry  shouting  to 
me;  but  the  muscles  of  a  strongei-  arm  than  mine  could 
not  have  checked  at  once  the  furious  course  of  Pontiac, 
whose  mouth  was  as  insensible  as  leather.     Added  to  this, 


fl:.' 


THE    BUFFALO. 


75 


if  tl)C 

cIumI, 
)  now 
!  hills 
citl\(3r 
vc  I'lin 
diuUm- 
.     He 
straiii- 
itantly 
filives, 
1  their 
iir  last 
(Is  and 
;lciii2,th 
ying  in 

j;side,  I 
repurt 
rowii  a 
much 
jiillalo 
ill  ecr- 
wed  in 
(?  other 
low  oil 
ontTalo 

xt  hill, 
h  rough 

liting  to 

le  could 

I'ontiac, 

to  this, 


■■It. 
'4 


I  rode  him  that  morning  wiih  a  snaflle,  having  the  day 
heforc,  for  tlic  hcnelit  of  my  other  horse,  unl)uckled  from 
my  Itridlc  the  curb  which  1  e<Mmnonly  used.  A  stronger 
and  haidicr  lirute  never  trod  the  piairie  ;  l)Ul  the  noveJl 
siglit  of  tlie  liiiffalo  fdled  him  with  teri'oi',  and  wiien  at 
full  speed  he  was  alu'ost  iucoutroUalile.  (jiaining  the  top 
of  the  ridge,  i  s;iw  nothing  of  the  laiffalo ;  they  iiad  all 
vainsluMl  amid  the  intricacies  of  the  hills  and  liolhnvs. 
ludoading  my  pistols,  in  the  best  way  1  could,  I  galloped 
on  uniil  I  saw  tiiem  again  senttliug  along  at  tl>o  base  of 
the  hill,  iheir  paiue  somewhat  abated.  Down  went  old 
Poutiuc  'unonLi'  tlu'Ui,  seattering  them  to  the  right  and 
left;  a:id  then  we  had  another  long  chase.  About  a  dozen 
bulls  were  before  us,  scouring  over  the  hills,  rushing  down 
the  declivities  with  tremendous  weight  and  impetuosiity^ 
and  then  laboring  with  a  weary  ^;dlop  upward.  Still 
Pontiac,  in  spite  of  spurring  and  i(v.ating,  would  noi  close 
with  them.  One  bull  at  length  fell  a  little  behind  tiio 
rest,  and  by  dint  of  much  cftbrt,  I  urged  my  horse  witiiin 
six  oi  eight  yards  of  Ins  side.  His  back  was  darkened 
with  sweat:  he'  was  panting  heavily,  while  his  tongue 
hdled  out  a  foot  IVoni  his  jaws.  Gradually  1  came  up 
abreast  of  him.uruing  Pontiac  with  leg  and  rein  nearer  to 
his  side,  when  suddenly  he  did  what  budido  in  such  cir- 
cumstances will  always  do:  he  slackened  his  gallop,  ami 
turning  towards  us,  with  an  aspect  of  mingled  rage  and 
distress,  lowered  his  huge,  shaggy  iiead  for  a  cliargo. 
Pontiac,  with  a  snort,  leaped  aside  in  terror,  nearly  throw- 
ing me  to  the  ground,  as  1  was  wdiolly  unprepared  for 
such  an  evolution.  I  raised  my  i)istol  in  a  passion  to 
strike  him  on  the  head,  Imt  thinking  better  of  it,  lired  the 
bullet  after  the  l)ull,  who  )iad  resumed  his  llight ;  then  drew 
rein,  and  determined  to  rejoin  my  compaiuons.  It  was 
high  time.     The  breath  blew  hard  from  Pontiac's  nostrils, 


76 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


and  the  sweat  rolled  in  big  drops  down  liis  sides;  I  my- 
seir  felt  as  if  drenched  in  warm  water.  Pledging  myself 
to  take  my  revenge  at  a  future  oj)i)ort unity,  1  icjolced  al)out 
for  some  indications  to  show  me  where  1  was,  and  what 
course  I  ought  to  ])ursue  ;  I  might  as  avcU  have  looked 
for  landmarks  in  the  midst  of  the  ocean.  How  many 
miles  1  had  run,  or  in  what  direction,  1  liad  no  idea  ;  and 
around  me  the  pi'airic  was  rolling  in  steep  swells  and 
])itches,  without  a  single  distinctive  ^'"ature  to  guide  me.  I 
had  a  little  compass  hung  at  my  neck;  and  ignorant,  that 
the  Platte  at  this  point  diverged  considerably  from  its  east- 
erly course,  I  thought  that  by  keeping  to  the  nortliward  I 
should  certainly  reach  it.  So  I  turned  and  rode  about 
two  hours  in  that  direction.  The  prairie  changed  as  1 
advanced,  softening  away  into  easier  undulations,  but 
nothing  like  the  Platte  appeared,  nor  any  sign  of  a  human 
being:  the  same  wild  endless  expanse  lay  around  mc  still ; 
and  to  all  ai)pearancc  I  was  as  far  from  my  object  as  ever. 
I  began  now  to  think  myself  in  danger  of  being  lost, 
and,  reining  in  my  horse,  sunuuoned  the  scanty  share  of 
"WCK.  dcraft  that  1  possessed  (if  that  term  is  applicable  ui)on 
the  prairie)  to  extricate  mc.  It  occurred  to  mc  that  the 
buffalo  might  prove  my  best  guides.  I  soon  found  one  of 
the  paths  made  by  them  in  their  passage  to  the  river :  it 
ran  nearly  at  right  angles  to  my  course ;  but  turning  my 
horse's  head  in  the  direction  it  indicated,  his  freer  gait 
and  erected  ears  assured  me  that  I  was  right. 

But  in  the  mean  time  my  ride  had  been  by  no  means 
a  solitary  one.  The  face  of  the  country  was  dotted  far 
and  wide  with  countless  hundreds  of  buffalo.  They 
trooped  along  in  fdes  and  columns,  bulls,  cows,  and 
calves,  on  the  green  faces  of  the  declivities  in  front.  They 
scrambled  away  over  the  hills  to  the  right  and  loft ;  and 
far  off,  the  pale  blue  swells  in  the  extreme  distance  were 


% 


THE    BUFFALO. 


77 


my 
gait 


;d  far 

Tliey 

and 

Tliey 

;  and 

were 


1 


dotted  widj  innnmorablo  specks.  Sometimes  I  surprised 
sliatTL^v  ''Id  liulis  grazing  alone,  or  sleeping  behind  the 
ridges  I  ascendiMl.  They  would  leap  up  at  my  api)roaeh, 
stare  stupidly  at  uk;  through  their  tangled  manes,  and 
then  gallop  licavily  away.  Tlie  antelope  were  very  nu- 
merous ;  and  as  they  are  always  l)old  when  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  liulfaio,  they  would  approach  to  look  at  me, 
gaze  intently  with  their  great  round  eyes,  then  suddeidy 
leap  aside,  and  stretch  lightly  away  over  the  prairie,  as 
swiftly  as  a  race-hors(\  Scpialid,  ruflian-like  wolves 
sneaked  through  the  hollov/s  and  sandy  ravines.  Several 
times  I  ])assed  through  villages  of  prairie-dogs,  who  sat, 
each  at  the  mouth  of  his  hurrow,  holding  his  ]»aws  before 
him  in  a  supj)licating  attitude,  and  yelping  away  most 
veliemently,  whisking  his  little  tail  with  every  s<pieak- 
ing  cry  he  uttered.  Prairie-dogs  are  not  fastidious  in 
their  choice  of  com))anions ;  various  long  checkered 
snakes  wei'e  sunning  themselves  in  the  midst  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  denuu'e  little  gray  owls,  with  a  large  white  ring 
around  each  eye,  were  perched  side  l)y  side  with  the  right- 
ful inhabitants.  The  prairie  teemed  with  life.  Again 
and  again  I  looked  toward  the  crowded  hill-sides,  and  was 
sure  I  saw  horsemen  ;  and  riding  near,  with  a  mixture  of 
hope  and  dread,  for  Indians  were  abroad,  I  found  them 
transformed  into  a  group  of  buffalo.  There  was  nothing 
in  human  shape  amid  all  this  vast  congregation  of  brute 
foi-ms. 

When  I  turned  down  the  buffalo  path,  the  prairie 
seemed  changed;  only  a  wolf  or  two  glided  by  at  in- 
tervals, like  conscious  felons,  never  looking  to  the  right 
or  left.  Being  now  free  from  anxiety,  I  was  at  leisure  to 
o])serve  minutely  the  objects  around  me  ;  and  here,  for 
the  first  time,  I  noticed  insects  wludly  dilferent  from  any 
of  the  varieties  found  farther  to  the  eastward.     Gaudy 


78 


THF,    ORKCON    TUMI,. 


1 

1 


i^ 


I  Iff  ' 


biiffoi'flics  fluMcrrd  alidiit.  my  Iiorsc's  IhmiI  ;  sli-aiiu'cly 
fonncd  licclli's,  jjliKcriiiu' willi  nu'lallic  lustre,  were  (;rii\V'l- 
iiiu'  ii|i(»ii  iihiiits  lliiil  I  had  never  seen  liefoi'e  ;  inidtitiidoa 
of  li/.ards,  loo,  were  dai'tiii|^  like  light niiiu"  onlt  tlio 
sand. 

1  had  I'nn  to  a  ^vont  distance  from  llio  river.  It,  cost 
mc  a  h»nu'  ride  on  tlie  l)nl'(iilo  path,  liel'ore  1  saw.  I'loni  tlio 
i'ide('  of  a  sand-hill,  the  pale  surface  of  the  IMatte  iilisten- 
inji:  ill  (he  midst  of  its  deseit  valley,  and  the  faint  outline 
of  the  hills  lieyond  \vavin|Lr  alon<^  the  sky.  l''rom  where  I 
stood.  iKjt  a  ti'ee  nor  a  i)ush  nor  a  living"  tliinu'  was  visiido 
tlirouuliout  llu;  whole  extent  of  the  sun-scorched  land- 
scape. In  half  an  liour  I  came  ujion  the  trail,  not  far 
from  the  river;  and  seeinir  that  (he  ]tarty  had  not  yet 
])assed,  1  turned  eastward  to  meet  them,  old  rontiac's 
long  swiniLi'ini:'  ti'ot  a.irain  assurinir  uic  that  1  was  ritiht  in 
doinji' so.  IIa\in,e'  heen  sliu'htly  ill  on  leaving  cam])  in 
the  uiorning,  six  or  seven  hours  of  rough  I'iding  laid 
fatigued  me  extremely.  I  soon  stopixnl,  therefoi"(>,  flung 
my  saddle  on  the  ground,  and  with  my  head  resting  on  it, 
and  my  horse's  trail-rope  tied  loosely  to  my  arm.  lay  waltz- 
ing the  arrival  of  the  party,  speculating  meanwhile  on 
the  extent  of  the  injuries  Pontiac  had  received.  At  length 
the  Avliite  wagon  coverings  rose  from  the  verge  of  the 
jilain.  I)y  a  singular  coincidence,  almost  at  the  same 
moment  two  horsemen  appeared  coming  down  IVom  the 
hills.  They  were  Shaw  and  Ilenry,  who  had  searched  for 
me  awhile  in  the  niorninu'.  l)ut  well  knowinu'  the  I'utilitv 
of  the  attemjjt  in  such  a  broken  country,  had  placed  them- 
selves on  the  top  of  the  highest  hill  they  could  find,  and 
picketing  their  horses  near  them,  as  a  signal  to  me,  had 
lain  down  and  fallen  asleep.  The  stray  cattle  had  heen 
recovered,  as  the  emiurants  told  us,  about  uonii.  ]3efore 
Bunset,  we  jtushcd  forward  eight  miles  farther. 


Tin:   luiivi.o. 


79 


])Ocn 


fore 


3c 


■  'i 


I 


"Jim;  7,  IMJO. —  I"(iur  ttini  arc  llli^^ill;.' :  I{ ,  Smil.  ami  two  ciiii- 

trratils      'IIk  y  m'I  tint  tlii'  iiioiiiiii;;  atirr  luiHiild,  ami  have  nut  yet    iiiadt! 
tlii'ir  a|i|n'aiaiic('  ;  wlii'lliiT  killnl  or  lo.st,  wc  (iiiiiiiit  li'll." 

I  IiikI  till'  !i!i.)\('  ill  luy  iKitc-iiiKik,  and  well  iTinciiilici' 
llic  '•(tiiiii'il  luld  nil  the  occiisiuii.  Oiir  lire  was  llir  sccih; 
(tf  it  :  for  tin'  siipcriurily  of  llciiry  ('liiililldir.s  cxiicriciicG 
ami  skill  made  him  tlic  resort  (tf  tlic  wIikIc  ('am|i  U|»on 
cxcrv  uiicstiuii  uf  dinicultv.  Ilf  was  moiddiii'^'  ladlcts  at, 
llic  life,  when  the  Captain  drew  near,  with  a  perlurlxMl 
and  eai-e-\\(irn  e.\|iressi()n  of  eonntenam-e.  faithfnlly  rc- 
llected  on  the  liea\y  featnrcs  of  .lacd;,  who  lollow'(>d  closo 
hchind.  Then  the  emigrants  camo  strnu'u'iini^'  I'rom  their 
wa^''ons  towards  the  common  centre.  \'arions  suti'uvs- 
(ions  were  made,  to  acconni  for  the  alisenee  of  the  fonr 
men.  and  one  or  two  of  tli(>  emiii'rants  deehire(l  that, 
when  out  after  the  cattle,  they  liad  seen  Indians  dou;'<i'in<; 
tliem.  ami  crawliiiLi'  like  wolves  ah)n<j:  tlic  I'ldu'cs  of  ili(> 
l\ills.  \{  this  the  Captain  slowly  sliook  Ills  head  with 
douhh'  irravity.  and  solemnly  remarked, — 

"It's  a  serious  thinii:  to  he  travelling:  throujih  this 
curse(l  wilderness  :  "  an  opinion  in  which  Jack  immedi- 
ately exjiressed  a  thoronuh  eoincidence.  Henry  would 
not  commit  himself  l)y  declarinii'  any  positive  opinion. 

"  ^lavlte  he  onlv  foll(»wcd  the  Imtfalo  too  i'ar  ;  niavl)C 
Indian  kill  him  ;  maylte  he  <2;ot  lost  ;   1  cannot,  tell." 

"With  this  th(^  auditors  were  oldig'cd  to  rest  content  ; 
the  emiu'rants.  not  in  the  least  alai-meil.  thoutrh  cui'ions 
to  know  what  had  hecome  of  theii-  comrades,  walked 
ha(dc  to  their  wagons,  and  the  Cajitaiu  hetook  himself 
pensively  to  his  tent.     Shaw  and  1  followed  his  exam})le. 


^1 


^2 


^y 


.0-^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


P/ 


A 


^  ,5^^. 


1.0 


I.I 


|50      '""^ 


25 
2.0 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4 

1.6 

.4 6"      — 

► 

v] 


<? 


/i 


A 


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/ 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


d 


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^^ 


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:\ 


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'rraTvrTKt-frmdtm 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


TAKING   FRENCH   LEAVE. 


f~\^  tlic  ei<^lith  of  June,  at  eleven  o'clock,  we  reached 
^-^  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte,  at  the  usual  fording- 
placc.  For  league  upon  league  the  desert  uniformity  of 
the  prospect  was  almost  unbroken  ;  the  hills  were  dotted 
with  little  tufts  of  shrivelled  grass,  but  betwixt  these  the 
white  sand  was  glaring  in  the  sun  ;  and  the  channel  of 
the  river,  almost  on  a  level  with  the  plain,  was  but  one 
great  sand-bed,  about  half  a  mile  wide.  It  was  covered 
with  water,  but  so  scantily  that  the  bottom  was  scarcely 
hidden  ;  for,  wide  as  it  is,  the  average  depth  of  the  Platte 
docs  not  at  this  point  exceed  a  foot  and  a  half.  Stopping 
near  its  bank,  we  gathered  bois  de  vache,  and  made  a 
meal  of  l)uffalo-meat.  Far  off,  on  the  other  side,  was  a 
green  meadow,  where  we  could  see  the  white  tents  and 
wagons  of  an  emigrant  camp  ;  and  just  opposite  to  us  we 
could  discern  a  group  of  men  and  animals  at  the  water's 
edge.  Four  or  five  horsemen  soon  entered  the  river,  and 
in  ten  minutes  had  waded  across  and  clambered  up  the 
loose  sand-bank.  They  were  ill-looking  fellows,  thin  and 
swarthy,  with  care-worn  anxious  faces,  and  lips  rigidly 
compressed.  They  had  good  cause  for  anxiety  ;  it  was 
three  days  since  they  first  encamped  here,  and  on  the 
night  of  their  arrival  they  had  lost  a  hundred  and  twenty- 
three  of  their  best  cattle,  driven  off  by  the  wolves,  through 
the  neglect  of  the  man  on  guard.     This  discouraging  and 


^ 


TAKING  FRENCH  LEAVE. 


81 


1 


tor's 

and 

the 

and 

gidly 
waa 
the 
cnty- 


jr  and 


alnrinintr  ciilaniity  was  not  tlio  first  tliat  had  ovcrtaktni 
them.  Since  leavinu:  the  settlements  tliey  had  met  with 
iiothiiii:'  liut  mislurtune.  Some  of  tlieir  }»arty  had  died; 
one  man  had  heen  killed  hy  the  Pawnees  ;  and  al)ont  a 
week  Itelore  tlioy  had  been  ])lundere(l  hy  the  Dahcotahs 
of  all  their  hest  horses,  the  wretched  animals  on  which 
our  visitors  were  monnted  l)ein<^  the  oidy  ones  that  were 
left.  They  had  encamped,  they  told  us,  near  sunset,  hy 
the  side  of  the  IMatte,  and  their  oxen  were  scattered  over 
the  nx'adow,  while  the  horses  were  feeding'  a  little  larther 
ol'f.  Suddenly  the  ridtres  of  tiic  hills  were  alive  with  a 
swarm  of  mounted  Indians,  at  least  six  hundred  in  num- 
ber, who  came  ponring  with  a  yell  down  towards  the  camj), 
rushing  up  within  a  few  rods,  to  the  great  terror  of  the 
emigrants  ;  when,  snddenly  wheeling,  they  swept  around 
the  band  of  horses,  and  in  live  minutes  disappeared  with 
their  prey  through  the  openings  of  the  hills. 

As  these  emigrants  were  telling  their  story,  we    saw 

four  other  men  approaching.     They  proved  to  be  R 

and  his  companions,  who  had  encountered  no  mischance 
of  any  kind,  but  had  only  wandered  too  far  in  pursuit  of 
the  game.     They  said  they  had  seen  no  Indians,  but  only 

"millions  of  buffalo;"  and  both  R and  Sorel  had 

meat  dangling  behind  tlieir  saddles. 

The  emigrants  recrossed  the  river,  and  we  prepared  to 
follow.  First  the  heavy  ox-wagons  i)lunged  d(nvn  the 
bank,  and  dragged  slowly  over  the  sand-beds  :  sometimes 
the  hoofs  of  the  oxen  were  scarcely  wet  by  the  thin  sheet 
of  water;  and  the  next  moment  the  river  would  Ix;  Ix^il- 
ing  against  their  sides,  and  eddying  around  the  wheels. 
Inch  by  inch  they  rece(le(l  i'roni  the  shore,  dwindling 
every  moment,  nntil  at  length  they  seemed  to  be  lloating 
far  out  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  A  more  critical  ex- 
periment awaited  us  ;  for  our  little  nude-cart  was  ill-littcd 


m  il 


'4 


:  H' 

■  ■it 


M 


I  III 
'-i'r 


I 


82 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


it 


i! 

I   I 


for  tlic  passiiuc  of  so  swift  a  stream.  Wc  watclied  it  witli 
anxiety,  till  it  seemed  a  motionless  white  speek  in  the 
midst  of  the  waters  ;  and  it  was  motionless,  for  it  had 
shudv  fast  in  a  (jnicksand.  'J'he  nudes  were  losing  their 
footing,  the  wheels  were  sinking  deeper  and  deeper,  and 
the  water  licgan  to  rise  tlirongh  the  I)ottom  and  dreneh 
the  gotjds  witliin.  All  of  us  who  had  remained  on  the 
liitlier  hank  galloped  to  tlie  resene  ;  the  men  jumped  into 
the  water,  adding  their  strengtli  to  that  of  the  nudes,  until 
by  nuieh  effort  the  eart  was  extrieated,  and  eonveyed  in 
safety  across. 

As  we  gained  the  other  bank,  a  rough  group  of  men 
surrounded  us.  They  were  not  robust,  nor  large  of  frame, 
yet  they  had  an  aspect  of  hardy  endurance.  Finding  at 
home  no  scope*  for  their  energies,  they  had  betaken  tliem- 
selves  to  the  prairie;  and  in  them  seemed  to  be  revived, 
wdth  redoulded  force,  that  fierce  s]>irit  whicli  impelled 
their  ancestors,  scarcely  more  lawless  than  themselves, 
from  the  (lerman  forests,  to  inundate  Kurojje,  and  over- 
whelm the  Uoman  empire.  A  fortnight  afterwards  this 
unfortunate  party  j)assed  Fort  Laramie,  while  we  were 
there.  Not  one  of  their  missing  oxen  had  been  recovered, 
though  they  had  renuiined  encamped  a  week  in  search  of 
them;  and  they  had  been  compelled  to  abandon  a  great 
part  of  their  l)aggage  and  provisions,  and  yoke  cows  and 
heifers  to  their  wagons  to  carry  them  forward  u|)()n  their 
journey,  the  most  t(;ilsome  and  hazardous  part  of  which 
lay  still  before  them. 

It  is  worth  noticing  that  on  the  Platte  one  may  some- 
times see  the  shattered  wrecks  of  ancient  claw-footed 
tables,  well  waxed  and  rubbed,  or  massive  bureaus  of 
carved  oak.  These,  some  of  them  no  doubt  the  relics  of 
ancestral  prosj)erity  in  the  colonial  time,  must  have  en- 
countered strange  vicissitudes.    Brought,  perhaps,  origin- 


TAKING  FRENCH  LEAVE. 


83 


ilh 
the 
iml 
iL'ii- 
[\ntl 
lu'h 
till) 
into 
lutil 
d  in 

men 
•tune, 
i;j;  at 
llicni- 
^•ived, 
polled 
elves, 

over- 
s  this 

were 
Ivered, 

ch  or 

o-reat 
s  and 
their 
which 

sonie- 
j-l'ooted 
Jwis  of 
[lies  of 
Ive  cn- 
I  origin- 


ally from  En<ilan(l  ;  then,  with  the  doelining  fortnnes  of 
their  ownei's,  burne  across  the  AUcj^hanies  to  the  wilder- 
ness of  Ohio  or  Kentuekv  ;  then  to  Illinois  or  Missonri  ; 
and  now  at  last  fondly  stowed  away  in  the  limiily  wa^'on 
i'oi'  the  intcrnunaltle  Jonrney  to  Oregon.  Ihit  the  stern 
jiiivations  oi'  the  way  are  little  antieipatfd.  The  eher- 
ished  relic  is  soon  Hung  out  to  seorch  and  rrack  upon  tiie 
hot  prairie. 

We  resumed  our  journey  ;  but  we  had  gone  scarcely  a 
mile,  when  R called  out  from  the  rear, — 

"  We'll  'camp  here." 

"•  Why  do  you  want  to  'camp?  Look  at  the  sun.  It 
is  not  three  o'clock  yet." 

"  We'll  'camp  here  !  " 

This  was  the  only  rej)ly  vouchsafed.  Doslauriers  was 
in  advance  with  his  cart,  b^eeing  the  nuile-wagon  wheel- 
ing from  the  track,  he  began  to  turn  his  own  team  in  the 
same  direction. 

"  Co  on,  Doslauriers  ; "  and  the  little  cart  advanced 
again.  As  we  rode  on,  we  soon  heard  the  wagon  of  our 
}s   creakin«r  and    ioltiuL''    behind    us.   and 


confederates  creakin«r 


J' 


na   tne 

driver,  Wright,  discharging  a  furious  volley  of  oaths 
against  his  nudes ;  no  doul)t  venting  upon  them  the 
wiath  which  he  dared  not  direct  against  a  more  appro- 
priate object. 

Something  of  this  sort  had  frequently  occurred.  Oni' 
English  companion  was  by  no  moans  partial  to  us.  and 
we  thought  we  discovered  in  his  conduct  an  intention  to 
thwart  and  annoy  us,  especially  by  retarding  the  move- 
ments of  the  jtarty,  which  he  knew  that  we  were  anxious 
to  ([uicken.  Therefore  he  would  insist  on  oncamjiing  at 
all  unseasonable  hours,  saying  that  fifteen  miles  was  a 
suflicient  day's  journey.  Finding  our  wishes  disregarded, 
we   took   the  direction   of    aHairs  hito   our  own  hands. 


y'^ 


m 


If* 


84 


THE    OllECION    TRAIL. 


lit 


lur 


Kcc'j)ii»<r  always  iit  a<lvance,  to  the  incxpressiljlu  indigna- 

{U)n  (>r  R ,  \vo  encamped  at  wluit  time  and  place  we 

thouuiit  proper,  not  nuicli  caring  whether  tlie  rest  chose 
to  iollow  or  not.  They  always  ilid  so,  iKjwevei',  })itchiiig 
their  tent  near  onrs,  with  sullen  and  wrathful  counte- 
nances. 

'rravclling  together  on  tl»ese  terms  did  not  suit  our 
t.istes,  and  lor  some  time  we  had  meditattnl  a  separation. 
We  resolved  to  leave  camp  early  in  the  morning,  and 
j)ush  Ibi'ward  as  rapidly  as  j)ossil)le  for  Fort  Laramie, 
"wiiich  we  ho|)ed  to  reacli,  i)y  hard  travelling,  in  lour  or 
five  days.  The  Captain  soon  trotted  up  between  us,  and 
we  explained  our  intentions. 

'•  A  very  extra(  rdinary  proceeding,  uijon  my  word  !  " 
he  remarked.  The  most  prominent  impression  in  his 
mind  evidently  was,  that  we  were  deserting  his  jtarty,  in 
wliat  he  regarded  as  a  very  dangerous  stage  of  the  jour- 
ney. AVe  ventured  to  suggest  that  we  were  oidy  four  in 
numl)er,  while  his  party  still  included  sixteen  men  ;  and 
as  we  were  to  go  forward  and  they  were  to  Iollow,  a  full 
proportion  of  the  perils  he  ajjprehended  would  fall  upon 
us.  J]ut  the  austerity  of  the  Captain's  features  would  not 
relax.  "  A  very  extraordinary  proceeding,  gentlemen  !  " 
and  repeating  this,  he  rode  off  to  confer  with  his  prin- 
cipal. 

Before  sunrise  on  the  next  morning  our  tent  was  down  ; 
we  harnessed  our  best  horses  to  the  cart  and  left  the 
camp.  l>ut  first  we  shook  hands  with  our  friends  the 
emigrants,  who  sincerely  wished  us  a  safe  journey,  though 
some  others  of  the  party  might  easily  have  been  consoled 
had  we  encountered  an  Indian  war-party  on  the  way.  The 
Cai)tain  and  his  brother  were  standing  on  the  top  of  a  hill, 
wrapped  in  their  ])laids,  like  spirits  of  the  mist,  keej)ing 
an  anxious  eye  on  the  band  of  horses  below.     We  waved 


TAKING    FRENCH    I.FAVK. 


So 


\vu 

lose 
Viug 
luto- 

our 
lion. 

iind 
imio, 
111-  or 
,,  and 

)rd  1 " 
n  his 
•ty,  in 
!  jour- 
ibuv  in 

,  and 

ii  rail 
upon 

Id  not 
Ucn '. 
prin- 

lown ; 
fft  the 
Is  the 
lliou^h 
insolod 
The 
,  a  hill, 
jccj)in«2; 
Iwavod 


ndioii  to  Ihcm  as  wo  rode  olT  the  ^n-oiind.  The  CMplain 
replied  with  a  siihitation  of  the  ntniost  diuiiity,  whicli 
Jack  tried  to  iiiiitate,  though  not  witli  perfect  success. 

In  live  minutes  \vc  had  gaiued  llie  foot  of  the  liills.  hut 
here  we  came  to  a  stop,  ilemirick  was  in  tiie  siiafts.  aud  lie- 
iuLi'  the  iucarnation  of  perverse  and  hrutish  ohstinacy,  ho 
utleriy  refused  to  move.  I)eslauriei's  hished  and  swore 
till  he  was  tired,  hut  Ilondrick  stood  like  a  rock,  urn  ml  »1  in  j; 
to  hiuisolf  and  looking  askance  at  his  enemy,  until  he  saw 
a  favoralile  opjjortunity  to  take  his  revcnire.  when  he  struck 
out  nndor  the  shaft  with  such  cool  maliunity  of  intention 
that  Ih'slauriers  only  escaped  the  hlow  liy  ti  sudden  skip 
into  the  ail',  such  as  no  one  hut  a  Fronclnnan  could  achieve. 
Shaw  and  he  then  joined  forces,  and  lashed  on  i)oth  sides 
at  once.  The  hrute  stood  still  for  a  while,  till  he  could 
hear  it  no  longer,  when  he  hou'an  to  kick  and  plunu-o  till 
he  thi'oatoned  the  utter  demolition  of  the  cart  and  harness. 
We  glanced  hack  at  the  camp,  which  was  in  full  sight, 
ions,  insi)irod   hv  emulation,  were   levellintr 


'P 


their  tents  and  driving  in  their  cattle  and  horses. 

'^  Take  the  horse  out,"  said  1. 

I  took  the  saddle  from  Pontiac  and  put  it  npon  Ilon- 
drick ;  the  former  was  harnessed  to  the  cart  in  an  instant. 
'•'■  Avanre  donc!^^  cried  Deslauriers.  Pontiac  strode  up 
the  hill,  twitching  the  little  cart  after  him  as  if  it  were  a 
feather's  weight ;  and  though,  as  w(;  gained  the  lop,  we 
saw  the  wagons  of  onr  deserted  comrades  just  getting  into 
motion,  wc  had  little  fear  that  they  could  overtake  us. 

Leaving  the  trail,  wc  struck  directly  across  the  country, 
and  took  the  shortest  cut  to  reach  the  main  stream  of  the 
Platte.  A  deep  ravine  suddenly  intercepted  us.  We 
skirted  its  sides  until  we  found  them  less  ahrujtt,  and 
then  plunged  through  in  the  ()(>st  way  wc  could.  Passing 
hehind  the  sandy  ravines  called  •'  Ash  Hollow^"  we  stoi)}ied 


1  i; 


,:  i  I,  s 


111 


)3 


m 


i'lii 


86 


THE    OIIEUON    TRAIL. 


M 


il 

i  i 


fur  a  sliort  nooning  at  the  side  of  a  pool  of  rain-water; 
but  soon  resumed  our  Journey,  and  some  hours  h<'foro 
sunset  descended  the  ravines  and  gor/^es  o]  jning  down- 
ward upon  the  IMatte  west  of  Ash  llullow.  Our  horses 
waded  to  tlie  fetlock  in  sand  ;  the  smi  scorched  like  Ih'o, 
and  the  air  swarmed  with  sand-flies  and  mos<]uitoes. 

At  last  we  gained  the  Platte.  Following  it  for  ahout 
five  miles,  we  saw,  just  as  the  sun  was  sinking,  a  great 
meadow,  dotted  witii  hundreds  of  cattle,  and  beyond  them 
an  encami)nient  of  emigrants.  A  party  of  them  came  out 
to  meet  us,  looking  upon  us  at  first  with  cold  and  suspi- 
cious faces.  Seeing  four  men,  ditferent  in  appearance  and 
equij)nient  from  themselves,  emerging  from  the  hills,  they 
had  taken  us  for  the  van  of  the  much-dreaded  Mormons, 
whom  fhey  were  very  apprehensive  of  encountering.  We 
made  known  our  true  character,  and  then  they  greeted  us 
cordially.  Tliey  expressed  mucli  surj)risc  that  so  small  a 
party  should  venture  to  traverse  that  region,  though  in 
fact  such  attenipts  are  often  made  by  trappers  and  Indian 
traders.  We  rode  with  them  to  their  camp.  The  wagons, 
some  fifty  in  numl)cr,  with  here  and  there  a  tent  inter- 
vening, v.'cre  arranged  as  usual  in  a  circle  ;  the  best 
horses  were  picketed  in  the  area  within,  and  the  wholo 
circumference  was  glowing  with  the  dusky  light  of  fires, 
displaying  the  forms  of  the  women  and  children  who  were 
crowded  around  them.  This  patriarchal  scene  was  curious 
and  striking  enough  ;  but  we  made  our  esca[)e  from  the 
])lace  with  all  i)ossiblc  disj)atch,  being  tormented  by  the 
intrusive  questioning  of  the  men  who  thronged  about  us. 
Yankee  curiosity  was  nothing  to  theirs.  They  demand- 
ed our  names,  whence  we  came,  whither  wc  were  going, 
and  what  was  our  business.  The  last  query  was  'par- 
ticularly embarrassing;  since  travelling  in  that  country, 
01'  indeed  anywhere,  from  any  other  motive  than  gain, 


I 


, 


J 


TAKING  FRKNCH  LEAVE. 


87 


iter ; 
'lovo 
osvii- 
oi'sos 
fire, 

about 
o-reut 
tliem 
lie  oufc 
suspi- 
ce  and 
rt,  they 
rmons, 
..     We 

etcd  113 

small  a 
)ii«>U  in 
Ind'uui 
vajions, 
t  intcr- 
Ihc  best 
Nvholo 
f  fires, 
10  were 
eiirious 
om  the 
by  the 
out  us. 
ouiaud- 
going, 
•as  par- 
iouutry, 
Ln  gain, 


was  an  idea  of  wliicli  tlu'V  took  no  counii/ancf.  Yet  tlu'y 
wore  fin('-lo()kin<>'  fellows,  with  an  air  of  fninUnoss,  •gen- 
erosity, and  even  eonrtosy,  liavinjj  (!onie  frcnn  one  of  the 
least  biirliarous  of  the  frontier  eounties. 

We  passed  about  a  mile  beyond  them,  and  eneam|»e(l. 
TJeint!;  too  few  in  number  to  stand  <iuard  witlioiit  exeessive 
fiilitrue,  we  extinguished  our  tire,  h'st  it  sliould  attraet  the 
notice  of  wanderin|jj  Indians;  and,  |iieketin!i'  our  iiorses 
close  around  us,  slept  undisturbed  till  moi'nin<^.  l''or  three 
days  we  travelled  without  interruption,  and  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  third  encamped  by  the  well-known  sj)ring  on 

Scott's  niuir. 

Henry  Chatillon  and  I  rode  out  in  the  morning,  and, 
descending  the  western  side  of  the  iilulf,  were  crossing 
the  plain  beyond.  Homething  that  seemed  to  me  a  tile  of 
biiifalo  came  into  view,  descending  the  hills  several  miles 
before  us.  But  Henry  reined  in  his  horse,  and,  peering 
across  the  prairie  with  a  better  and  more  practised  eye, 
soon  discovered  its  real  nature.  ''Indians!"  he  said. 
"  Old  Smoke's  lodges,  I  b'lieve.  Come  ;  let  us  go  I  Wah  ! 
get  u|),  now,  '  Five  Hundred  Dollar.'"  And  laying  on 
the  lash  with  good  will,  he  galloped  forward,  and  1  rodo 
by  his  side.  Not  long  after,  a  black  s|)eck  became  visible 
on  the   prairie,  full  two  miles  otf.     It  grew  larger  and 


larger  ;  it  assumed  the  form  of  a  man  and  horse  ;  and 
soon  we  could  discern  a  naked  Indian,  careering  at  full 
gallop  towards  us.  When  within  a  furlong  he  wheeled 
his  horse  in  a  wide  circle,  and  made  him  describe  vari- 
ous mystic  figures  upon  the  ])rairie  ;  Henry  immediately 
compelled    "Five  Hundred   l)(jllar"'    to  execute    similar 


evolution!' 


It  As-  Old  Smoke's  villau'e,"  said  he,  inter- 


l>reting  these  signals  ;  "  didn't  I  say  so  ?" 

As  the  Indian  approached  we  stopped  to  wait  for  him, 
when  suddenly  he  vanished,  sinking,  as  it  were,  into  the 


■;! 


:.  P 


#|l 


I   4 


m 


i 


!  i 


88 


THE    ORKfJON    TIIAII,. 


i 


eurtli.  TTc  Iwid  coino  upon  oiio  of  the  dcoj)  i-avincs  tliat 
(ivcrvwlicrL'  iiiicrscct  these  priiiries.  In  nii  iiistiiiit  the 
rough  liciid  of  his  horse  strelehed  upwiird  from  the  etlLje, 
and  the  riih-r  and  steed  came  scranihlinu' out,  and  honnch-d 
u\)  to  ns  ;  a  siKhlen  Jerk  of  the  rein  lironulit  tlie  wild 
[»iintin,u'  horse  to  a  lull  stoj).  Then  followed  tlm  nei'dlnl 
i'orniality  of  shakintr  hands.  1  foru'et  our  visitor's  name. 
Ho  was  a  yoimir  fallow,  of  no  note  in  his  nation;  yet  in 
his  jierson  and  e(|uipments  he  was  a  ji'ood  speeimen  of  a 
Daheotah  warrior  in  his  ordinary  travellinii;  dress.  Ijiko 
most  of  liis  peopl(\  he  was  ncnirly  six  feet  hiuh  ;  lithely 
and  ^n-aeefnlly,  yet  stronuly  jtroportioned ;  and  with  a 
skin  sinuulai'ly  clear  and  delicate.  He  wore  no  |)aint;; 
his  licad  was  hare  ;  and  liis  lonui;  hair  was  n;;ithere(l  in  a 
clump  heliind,  to  the  toj)  of  which  was  attached  ti'ans- 
versely,  hoth  hy  way  of  ornament  and  of  talisman,  the 
mystic  wliistlc,  made  of  tlie  win_i!;-l)one  of  the  war-ea<rlc, 
and  endowed  with  various  maii'ic  virtues.  From  the  back 
of  his  liead  descended  a  hne  of  ghtterinii'  hrass  plates, 
ta})ering  from  the  size  of  a  dou])l()on  to  that  of  a  half- 
dime,  a  cnmhrons  ornament,  in  high  vogue  among  the 
Dalicotahs,  and  for  which  thev  nav  the  traders  a  most 
extravagant  price  ;  his  eliest  and  arms  were  naked,  the 
buffalo  robe,  worn  over  tliem  when  at  rest,  liad  fallen 
about  his  waist,  and  was  confined  there  l)y  a  l)elt.  This, 
with  the  gay  moccasins  on  his  feet,  comjileted  liis  attire. 
For  arms  he  carried  a  (piiver  of  dog-skin  at  his  back,  and 
a  rude  but  ])Owerful  bow  in  his  hand.  His  horse  liad  no 
bridle  ;  a  cord  ol'  liair,  lashed  around  Ins  jaw,  sei'ved  in 
place  of  one.  The  saddle  was  made  of  wood  covered 
with  raw  liide,  and  both  ])omnicl  and  cantlo  rose  jjcrjien- 
diculai'ly  full  eighteen  inches,  so  tliat  the  warrior  was 
wedged  tirmly  in  his  seat,  whence  nothing  could  dislodge 
liini  but  the  bursting  of  the  girths. 


TAKPsO     rRF.Nfll    M'AVK. 


89 


that 
the 

•ilu'c, 

wil.l 

lillUO. 

ft  in 
of  a 
liikc 
it  holy 
vith  a 
paint ; 
1   ill  a 
trans- 
Ill,  the 
•-ea<^lc, 
\{i  back 
)\aU>s, 
a  halt- 
no;  the 
I   most 
c<l,  the 
lallen 
This, 
alt ire. 
k,  and 
lad  no 
v(mI  in 
overed 
)crpcn- 
|or  was 
lislodge 


AdvaiM'iiiu'  with  oiir  new  coiiipanioii.  we  (ound  iikm'c  oI' 
his  jicojilc,  seated  in  a  eiicle  on  the  top  of  a  hill  :  whih'  a 
ru(h'  processii»n   eaine  stra'juiinL!:  down  the   neiuhljorin;;; 
lidljow,  men,  women,  and  ehihh'eii.  with  hors(>s  (h'aii'U'in,!^ 
the   lodu'e-jioies  Itehind    them.      Ail    that    nioi'niii<r,  ns  we 
niovi'd  lbi-w;iiil.  tiiil   savau'es  were  ^talkiiiii;  sih'ntly  ahont 
ns.     At  noon  we  i-eaehed  llnrse  Creek.     The    m.iin   l>ody 
{)['   the    liuhaiis    liad    aiTived   hel'ore  ns.     On   the  i'ai'ther 
l»ank  stood  a    hii'u'e  un<l  stronir  man.  neaily  nakeii.  liold- 
inu"  a   whit«'  horsi;  hy  a  h)n,u'  cord,  and   eyinu"   ns  as  we 
approaclied.      This   was   the   ehiel",   wlioin    Henry   ealh'd 
"  Ohl  Smoke."     Just  behind  liim,  his  yonn<rest  and  favor- 
ite s(piaw  sat   astride  a  line  mule,  covered   with  i-apari- 
sons  of   wliitened   skins,  <^arnishcd  with   bine   and  white 
heads,  and   IVinued  witli   little   ornaments   of  metal   that 
tinkled  witli  everv  movement  of  the  animal.     The   irirl 
had  a  li<iht  (dear  complexion,  enlivened  by  a  spot  of  ver- 
milion on  each  cheek;  slie   smile*!,  not  to  sav  urinned, 
upon  ns,  showing;  two  uleamin^  rows  of  white  teeth.     In 
iier  hand  she  carried  the  tall   lance  of  lier  umdiivalrons 
lord,   llutterinj>:   with   feathers;    his    round   white    shield 
liung  at  the  side  of  her  mule  ;  and  his  pipe  was  sluui:^  at 
her  back,     ller  dress  was   a  tunic  of   deer-skin,  made 
iieautifuUy  white  by  means  of  a  sjiecies  of  clay  found  on 
the  prairie,  ornamented  with  beads,  arranged  in   fiirures 
more  gay  than  tasteful,  and  with  long  fringes  at  all  the 
seams.     Not  far  from  the  chief  stood  a  group  of  stately 
fiuures,  their  white  buffalo-robes  thrown  over  their  shonl- 
(lers,  gazing  coldly  upon  ns  ;  and  in  the  rear,  for  several 
acres,  the  gronnd  was  covered  with  a  temporary  encam])- 
nient.    Warriors,  women,  and  children  swarmed  like  bees  ; 
hundreds  of  dogs,  of  all  sizes  and   colors,  ran  restlessly 
about  ;  and,  close  at  hand,  the  wide  shallow  stream  was 
alive  with  boys,  girls,  and  young  squaws,  splashing,  scream- 


I 


i\  iil 


M 


pf  I 


1 

I 


90 


THE    OUKUON    TRAIL. 


1 ; 


iiiff,  ami  liiii^Miin;;  in  tlio  wiitor.  At  tho  siiino  tiiiu^  a  loiij^ 
train  of  cini^rmits  witii  tlicir  heavy  wagons  whs  ciossin^ 
tlic  ('i'<'('k,  ami  (IrajjLiiiiiLj:  on  in  slow  |»ro(M'ssion  liy  llio 
ciK'aniiinicnt  of  (lu;  |M'o|»lt!  whom  (liry  and  their  (h'seemi- 
ants,  in  the  space;  ol'  a  centmy,  are  to  sweep  from  tii(3 
face  of  the  earth. 

The  encampment  itself  was  merely  a  temporary  ono 
<lniin}j:  the  heat  of  the  day.  None  of  the  lodj^Ts  wero 
pitched;  hnt  their  heavy  leather  coverings,  and  the  lon<^ 
jioles  nsed  to  snpport  them,  were  scattere(l  cveiT where, 
amonj::  weapons,  domestic  ntensils,  and  the  rnde  harness 
of  nudes  and  horses.  The  s<puiws  of  each  lazy  warrior 
had  made  him  a  shelter  from  the  smu  liy  stretching;  a  lew 
huffalo-robes,  or  the  corner  of  a  lodu'e-eovcsrini;,  npon 
poles;  and  here  he  sat  in  the  shade,  with  a  favorite  yonn^ 
s(inaw,  perhajis,  at  his  side,  ^litteiinji  with  all  imaginable 
trinkets.  JJefore  him  stood  the  insignia  of  his  rank  as  a 
warrior,  his  white  sliiidd  of  hulldude,  his  medicine-bai;, 
his  how  and  (piivei-,  his  lance  and  his  pipe,  raised  aloft 
on  a  ti'ipod  of  |ioles.  Except  the  dogs,  the  most  active 
and  noisy  tenants  of  the  camp  were  the  old  women,  ugly 
as  Machelh's  wit(dies,  with  hair  streaming  loosi;  in  the 
wind,  and  nothing  hnt  the  tattered  fragment  of  an  ohl 
huffalo-rohc  to  hide  tlieir  shrivelled  limbs.  The  day  of 
their  favoritism  passed  two  gcnei-ations  ago  ;  now,  tlie 
licaviest  labors  of  tlic  camp  devolved  upon  them  ;  they 
must  liarness  the  horses,  pitch  the  lodges,  dress  the 
buHalo-robes,  and  bring  in  meat  for  the  liunters.  With 
the  cracked  voices  of  these  hags,  the  clamor  of  dogs,  the 
shouting  and  laughing  of  children  and  girls,  and  the  list- 
less tranquillity  of  the  warriors,  the  whole  scene  had  an 
ellect  too  lively  and  ])ictures(|uc  to  be  forgotten. 

We  stopj)ed  not  far  from  the  Indian  camp,  and  having 
invited  some  of  the  chiefs  and  warriors  to  dinner,  placed 


i 


TAKINO     rili;N(  II     MAVK. 


<)l 


illol't 

(!tivG 

11  the 
old 
ay  of 
sv,  the 

they 
a   tlie 

With 
i's,  the 
le  list- 
ad  an 


laving 


hcfdic  ihi'iii  a  repast  of  hiscuit  and  colVtM'.  Squatted  in  a 
half  circle  on  tlie  jiroiiml,  Ihey  mdoii  disposed  of  it.  As 
we  rode  forwaril  oir  the  afternoon  journey,  several  of  our 
late  quests  accompanied  us.  Aniouo-  the  rest  was  a 
hloate<l  savaue,  of  more  than  three  hundred  pounds' 
wei^dit,  ehristeiie(l  Li'  Cnr/mn,  in  c()usideralion  of  his 
preposterous  dimensions,  and  certain  correspoudiim'  traits 
of  his  character.  ''  'I'he  I  lo<i'"  hestrode  a  little  while  pony, 
scarcely  ahle  to  heal'  up  under  the  enormous  l)urden, 
llioii;:h,  hy  way  of  kee|)ln<::  up  the  necessary  stimulus,  the 
rider  ke)»t  hoth  feet  in  constant  motion,  playiiiiT  alter- 
nately auaiust  his  rihs.  The  old  man  was  not  a  chief; 
he  never  had  amhition  eiioujili  to  liecome  one;  he  was 
not  a  warrior  nor  {i  huiilei',  for  he  was  too  fat  and  lazy; 
hut  he  was  tlie  richest  man  in  the  village.  IJiclies  amonj^ 
the  |)ah(M»talis  consist  in  horses,  and  of  these  "  Tiio 
Hoi-"  had  accumulated  more  than  thirty.  Jle  had 
already  ten  times  as  many  as  he  wanted,  yet  still  his 
a])petite  for  liors(.'S  was  insatial)le.  Trotting"  up  to  me,  ho 
shook  me  hy  tin;  hand,  and  gave  me  to  understand  that 
he  was  my  d<'Voted  friend  ;  then  he  hegaii  a  seri(!s  of 
siiiiis  and  <:'esticulation,  his  oily  countenance  radiant 
with  smiles,  and  his  little  eyes  peepin<!;  out  with  a  cunning 
twinkle  from  hetween  the  masses  of  flesh  that  almost 
ohscured  them.  Knowinj''  nothing  at  that  time  of  tho 
signdauguage  of  the  Indians,  1  could  only  guess  at  his 
meaning.     So  1  called  on  Henry  to  explain  it. 

"  The  I  log,"  it  seems,  was  anxious  to  C(jiiclude  a  mat- 
rimonial hargain,  and  iiarter  one  of  his  daughters  for  my 
horse.  These  overture.-'  1  (diose  to  reject;  at  which  ''Tho 
Hog,"  still  laughing  with  undiminished  good  humor, 
gathered  his  rolie  ahout  his  shoulders,  and  rode  away. 

Whore  we  encanii)ed  that  night,  an  arm  (jf  the  Platto 
ran  between  high  blulls ;  it  was  turbid  and  swift  as  here- 


'll 


I 


)■  '1 


1 

i 

1 

r 

f  i 

r  y; 

l" 

S  i 

S  K 

1   ■ 

'i 

!■ 

1-^ 

111 


s 


II H 


N'i 


1 


I    ii 


h 


92 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


toforo,  lint  trees  were  LM'owiiiir  on  it,,  cnmiMin*::  l)n,nks, 
and  there  ^v:ls  a  nook  of  u'rass  l)ct\vocn  the  water  and  tlic 
liill.  .lust  liel'ore  entcrinir  tliis  place,  we  saw  tlie  emi- 
grants cncanipinir  two  or  three  miles  distant  on  the 
ritiht  :  while  the  whole  Indian  rahhle  were  jtourinu'  down 
the  neiuhhorinti'  hill  in  ho])e  ol'  the  same  sort  ol"  enter- 
tainment which  they  had  experienced  IVom  ns.  In  the 
savauc  landscape  heCore  our  eamj),  nothing  bnt  the  rnsh- 
ing  of  the  Platte  broke  the  silence.  Thronuh  the  rau'ired 
boniLihs  of  the  trees,  dilai)idated  and  half  dead,  we  saw 
the  sun  setting  in  crimson  behind  the  peaks  of  the  Black 
Hills  ;  the  restless  bosom  oi'  the  river  was  suffused  with 
red  ;  our  white  tent  was  tinged  with  it,  and  the  sterile 
bluffs,  up  to  the  rocks  that  crowned  them,  i)artook  of  the 
same  fiery  hue.  It  soon  ])assed  away;  no  light  remained 
bnt  that  IVom  our  fii'e,  blazing  high  among  the  dusky 
trees  and  bushes,  while  we  lay  around  it  wrapped  in  our 
blankets,  smokinii;  and  conversinu'  through  iialf  the  night. 
We  crossed  a  sun-scorched  })lain  on  the  next  morning; 
the  line  of  old  cotton-wood  trees  that  fringed  the  baidv  of 
the  Platte  forming  its  extreme  verge.  Nestled  close  be- 
neath them,  we  could  discern  in  the  distance  something 
like  a  building.  As  we  came  nearer,  it  assumed  form 
and  dimensions,  and  jjroved  to  be  a  rough  structure  of 
logs.  It  was  a  little  trading  fort,  lielonging  to  two  private 
traders;  an.d  originally  intended,  like  all  the  forts  of  the 
country,  to  form  a  hollow  square,  with  rooms  for  lodging 
and  storage  opening  upon  the  area  within.  Only  two 
sides  of  it  had  been  completed  ;  the  jjlace  was  now  as 
ill-fitted  for  the  j)uri)oses  of  defence  as  any  of  those 
little  log-houses,  which  upon  our  constantly-shifting  fron- 
tier have  been  so  often  successfully  held  against  over- 
whelming odds  of  Indians.  Two  lodges  were  pitched 
close  to  the  fort ;  the  sun  beat  scorching  upon  the  logs ; 


ii ,. 


form 
•c  of 
•ivatc 
If  the 
|lging 

two 
hv  as 

those 
I  fron- 
lovcr- 

tchcd 

logs ; 


TAKING  FRENCH  LEAVE. 


93 


no  liviiitr  tiling  was  stirring  except  one  old  s(|nuw,  who 
thrust  her  round  head  from  the  opening  of  the  Jiearest 
lodge,  and  three  or  four  stout  young  ))Uppies,  who  were 
])eQping  with  looks  of  eagei'  inipiiry  IVoni  under  the  cover- 
ing. In  a  moment  a  door  opened,  and  a  little,  swarthy, 
black-eyed  Fi'enchman  came  out.  His  dress  was  rather 
singular;  his  hlaek  curling  hair  was  parted  in  the  middle 
of  his  head,  and  fell  below  his  shoulders  ;  he  wore  a  tight 
frock  of  smoked  deer-skin,  gayly  ornamented  with  ligures 
worked  in  dyed  i)orcu[)ine-(iuills.  His  moccasins  and 
leggins  were  also  gaudily  adorneil  in  the  same  manner; 
and  the  latter  had  in  addition  a  line  of  hjug  tVinges, 
reaching  down  the  seams.  The  small  frame  of  Richard, 
for  by  this  name  Henry  made  him  known  to  us,  was  in 
the  highest  degree  athletic  and  vigorous,  'i'hei-e  was  no 
superfluity,  and  indeed  there  seldom  is  among  the  white 
men  of  this  country,  but  every  limb  was  compact  and 
hard  ;  every  sinew  had  its  full  tone  and  elasticity,  and 
the  whole  man  ^vore  an  air  of  mingled  hardihood 
and   buoyancy. 

Richard  committed  our  horses  to  a  Xavaho  slave,  a 
mean-looking  fellow,  taken  prisoner  on  the  Mexican  fron- 
tier ;  and,  relieving  us  of  our  rifles  with  ready  politeness, 
led  the  way  into  the  principal  apartment  of  his  establish- 
ment. This  was  a  room  ten  feet  s(iuare.  The  walls  and 
floor  were  of  black  mud,  and  the  roof  of  rough  timber; 
there  was  a  huge  lirei»lace  made  of  four  flat  rocks,  picked 


up 


)  on  the  nrairie.     An  Indian  bow  and  otter-skin  quiver 


several  gaudy  articles  of  Rocky  Mountain  finery,  an  Indian 
medicine-bag,  and  a  ])i[)e  and  tol>acco-pouch,  garnished 
the  walls,  and  rifles  rested  in  a  corner.  'J'hei'c  was  no 
furniture  cxcei)t  a  sort  <jf  rough  settle,  covered  with  buf- 
falo-robes, upon  which  lolled  a  tall  half-breed,  with  his 
hair  glued  in  masses  upon  each  temple,  and   saturated 


\        .   Si 


ri 


;.'  'si 


Iff 


i  ii 


i  1 


Hi 


;l  1 


94 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


with  vermilion.  Two  or  three  more  "mountain  men" 
sat  cross-l(',<i<red  on  tlie  floor.  Tiieir  attire  was  not  un- 
like lliat  ol'  Ricliard  liimself ;  but  the  most  striking  figui-e 
of  the  grou]»  was  a  naked  Indian  boy  of  sixteen,  with  a 
handsome  face,  and  light,  active  proportions,  who  sat  in 
an  easy  postui-e  in  the  corner  neai  ;he  door.  Not  one  of 
Ids  limbs  moved  the  breadth  of  a  hair;  his  eve  was  lixed 
,  innuovaljly,  not  on  any  jterson  j)resent,  but,  as  it  appeared, 
on  the  j)ro)ecting  corner  of  the  fireplace  op])Osite  to  him. 

Oh  the  prairie  the  custom  of  smoking  with  iViends  is 
seldom  omitted,  whether  among  Indians  or  whites.  The 
pipe,  therefore,  was  taken  from  the  wall,  and  its  red  bowl 
crammed  with  the  tobacco  and  i<h<mgms<ha,  mixed  in  suit- 
able ))roi)ortions.  Then  it  passed  round  tlie  circle,  each 
man  inhaling  a  few  whiffs  and  handing  it  to  his  neighbor. 
Having  spent  half  an  hour  iiere,  we  took  our  leave  ;  first 
inviting  our  new  friends  to  drink  a  cup  of  coffee  with  us 
at  our  camp  a  mile  farther  up  the  river. 

By  this  time  we  had  grown  rather  shabby  ;  our  clothes 
had  burst  into  rags  and  tatters  ;  and,  what  was  worse,  we 
had  little  means  of  renovation.  Fort  Laramie  was  but 
seven  miles  before  us.  Being  averse  to  ai)i)caring  in 
such  a  })light  among  any  society  that  could  boast  an 
ap{)roximati()n  to  the  civilized,  we  stopped  ])y  the  river  to 
make  our  toilet  in  the  best  way  we  could.  Wc  hung  up 
small  looking-glasses  against  the  trees  and  shaved,  an 
operation  neglected  for  six  weeks;  we  performed  our 
ablutions  in  the  Platte,  though  the  utility  of  such  a  ))r(> 
ceeding  was  questionable,  the  water  looking  exactly  like 
a  cu})  of  chocolate,  and  the  banks  consisting  of  the  softest 
and  richest  yellow  mud,  so  that  we  were  obliged,  as  a 
preliminary,  io  build  a  causeway  of  branches  and  twigs. 
Having  also  put  on  radiant  moccasins,  procured  frt)m  a 
squaw  of  RiclKir(''s  establishment,  and  made  wdiat  oilier 


TAKING  FRENCH  LEAVE. 


95 


improvements  our  narrow  circumstances  allowed,  we  took 
our  seats  on  the  ti;rass  with  a  I'eelinir  of  greatly  increased 
respectahility,  to  await  the  arrival  of  our  guests.  They 
came;  the  banijuet  was  concluded,  and  the  i»ij)e  smoked, 
llidding  them  adieu,  we  turned  our  horses'  heads  towards 
the  fort. 

An  hour  elapsed.  The  barren  hills  closed  across  our 
front,  and  we  could  see  no  farther;  until,  having  snr- 
mountedthem,  a  rapid  stream  a))peared  at  the  foot  of  the 
descent,  running  into  the  Platte  ;  beyond  was  a  green 
meadow,  dotted  with  bushes,  and  in  the  midst  of  these, 
at  the  j)oint  where  the  two  rivers  joined,  were  the  low 
clay  walls  of  a  fort.  This  was  not  Fort  Laramie,  but  an- 
other post,  of  less  recent  date,  which  having  sunk  before 
its  successful  competitor,  was  now  deserted  and  ruinous. 
A  moment  after,  the  hills  seeming  to  draw  apart  as  we 
advanced,  disclosed  Fort  Laramie  itself,  its  high  bastions 
and  perpendicular  walls  of  chi^'  crowning  an  eminence  on 
the  left  beyond  the  stream,  while  behind  stretched  a  line  of 
arid  and  desolate  ridges,  and  behind  these  again,  towering 
seven  thousand  feet  aloft,  rose  the  grim  Black  Hills. 

We  tried  to  ford  Laramie  Creek  at  a  ))oint  nearly  op- 
posite the  fort,  bat  the  stream,  swollen  with  rains,  was 
too  ra})id.  AVe  jiassed  up  along  its  bank  to  find  a  better 
crossing  i)lace.  Afcn  gathered  on  the  wall  to  look  at  us. 
"  There's  Bordeaux  !  "  called  ITenrv,  his  face  brightening 
as  he  recognized  his  acquaintance;  ''him  there  with  the 
sjy-glass  ;  and  there's  old  Vaskiss,  and  Tucker,  and 
May;  and,  by  George!  there's  Simoneau."  This  Sini- 
oncau  was  Henry's  fast  friend,  and  the  only  man  in  the 
country  who  could  rival  him  in  hunting. 

We  soon  found  a  ford,  llenry  led  the  way,  the  pony 
app;-oaching  the  baidv  with  a  countenance  of  cool  indil'ler- 
ence,  bracing  his  feet  and   sliding  into  the  stream  with 


(■!! 


m 


t:. 


l^lifi 


i 


1 1 


j7,-.?r" 


96 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


tlic  most  uiuuovimI  c()mi)()surc.  Wc  followed  ;  tlie  water 
boiled  against  our  saddles,  but  our  horses  bore  us  easily 
through,  'riic  unlbrtunate  little  mules  were  near  going 
down  with  the  eurrcut,  cart  and  all  ;  and  we  watched 
them  with  some  solicitude  scrambling  over  the  loose  round 
stones  at  the  bottom,  and  bracing  stoutly  against  the 
sti-eam.  All  landed  safely  at  last;  we  crossed  a  little 
plain,  descended  a  hollow,  and,  riding  up  a  steep  bank, 
found  ourselves  before  the  gateway  of  Fort  Laramie,  under 
the  impending  blockliouse  erected  above  it  to  defend  the 
entrance. 


i      I 


CHAPTER    IX. 


m 
■V 

:  >  ill 


sci«:n?:s  at   fout   lauamie. 

T  OOIvlNG  back,  after  the  ex))iratioii  of  a  year,  ii])on 
-*— '  Fort  Ijaraniic  and  its  inmates,  they  seem  less  like 
a  reality  than  like  some  faneifnl  picture  of  the  olden 
time  ;  so  different  was  the  scene  from  any  which  this 
tamer  side  of  the  world  can  present.  Tall  Indians,  en- 
veloped in  their  white  buflialo-robes,  were  striding  across 
the  area  or  reclinin";  at  full  len<>th  on  the  low  roofs  of  the 
building's  which  enclosed  it.  Numerous  sipuiws,  gayly 
bedizened,  sat  grouped  in  front  of  the  rooms  they  occu- 
pied ;  their  mongrel  oifspring,  restless  and  vociferous, 
rambled  in  every  direction  through  the  fort;  and  the  tra[)- 
pers,  traders,  and  oujages  of  the  establishment  were  busy 
at  their  labor  or  their  amusements. 

We  were  met  at  the  gate,  but  by  no  means  cordially 
welcomed.  Indeed,  we  seemed  objects  of  some  distrust 
and  sus()icion,  until  Henry  Chalillon  explained  that  we 
were  not  traders,  and  we,  in  confirmation,  handed  to  the 
hdurijrolx  a  letter  of  introduction  from  his  principals, 
lie  took  it,  turned  it  upside  down,  and  tried  harvl  to  read 
it  :  l)ut  his  literary  attainments  not  l)eing  adequate  to  tlie 
l;isk,  he  applied  for  relief  to  the  clerk,  a  sleek,  smiling 
Frenchman,  named  Monthalon.  The  letter  read,  Boi'- 
ficaux  (_the  huur(jeois)  seemed  gradually  to  awaken  to  a 
sense  of  what  was  expected  of  him.  Though  not  deficient 
in  liosj)itable  intentions,  he  was  wholly  unaccustomed  to 

7 


A    w 


■^^fffr 


[ 

4                  ' 

1 

1  'f 

1    '! 

1 

f  f 


i  I 


98 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


act  as  master  of  ceremonies.  Diseardini::  all  formalities 
of  recejttioii,  he  did  not  honor  us  with  a  sinde  word,  but 
walked  swiftly  across  the  area,  while  we  followed  in  some 
admiration  to  a  railing  and  a  (liiiht  of  steps  oj)j)osite  the 
entrance.  He  siuned  to  us  that  we  had  better  fasten  our 
horses  to  the  railing";  then  he  walked  up  the  steps,  tramped 
alont^  a  rude  l)al('ony,  and,  kicking'  open  a  door,  displayed 
a  large  room,  rather  more  elaborately  liirnishcd  '.ban  a 
barn.  For  fui'niture  it  had  a  rough  bedste.id,but  no  bed  ; 
two  chairs,  a  chest  of  drawers,  a  tin  pail  to  hold  water, 
and  a  board  to  cut  tobacco  upon.  A  l)rass  crucifix  hung 
on  the  wall,  and  close  at  hand  a  recent  seal)),  with  hair 
full  a  yard  long,  was  suspendcil  from  a  nail.  1  shall  again 
have  occasion  to  mention  this  disnuil  trophy,  its  history 
being  connected  with  that  of  our  sul)se(pi('iit  jjroccedings. 
This  ai»artment,  the  best  in  Fort  Laramii;,  was  that 
usually  occupied  by  the  legitimate  h(iur<jci>ln^  rai)in,  in 
whose  al)sence  the  command  devolved  upon  I>or<leaux. 
The  latter,  a  stout,  bluff  little  fellow,  nmch  inllatcd  by  a 
sense  of  his  new  authority,  began  to  roar  for  buffalo- robes. 
These  being  brought  and  spread  upon  the  floor,  formed 
our  beds;  nuich  lietter  ones  than  we  had  of  late  l)een 
accustonuMl  to.  Our  arrangements  made,  we  stepped  out 
to  the  balcony  to  take  a  more  leisurely  survey  of  the  long 
looked-for  haven. at  which  we  had  arrived  at  last.  ]>encath 
us  was  the  s(|uare  area  surrounded  l)y  little  rooms,  or 
rather  eells,  which  opened  upon  it.  These  were  devoted 
to  various  j)urposes,  but  served  chiefly  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  men  employed  at  the  fort,  or  of  the  erpially 
numerous  s(piaws  whom  they  were  allowed  to  maintain 
in  it.  ()p|)Osite  to  us  rose  the  blockhouse  above  the  gate- 
way; it  was  adorned  with  the  figm'O  of  a  horse  at  full 
speed,  daubed  upon  the  boards  with  red  ])aint.  and  exhib- 
iting a  degree  of  skill  which  might  rival  that  dis})layed  by 


I 


ilities 
1,  but 
some 
to  the 
Ml  our 
uuped 
phiycd 
luin  a 
o  bed  ; 
water, 

th  hair 
U  aiiaiu 
history 
>edin;j:s. 
as  that 
[\\)'\n,  iu 
H'dcaux. 
cd  by  a 
o-robcs. 
formed 
to  becu 
)|,('d  out 
ho  long 
Viicath 
oins,  or 
devoted 
couuuo- 
equally 
lauitaiu 
|ho  ^'ato- 
at  full 
1  I'xhi))- 
ayod  by 


SCENES    AT    FORT    LARAMIE. 


99 


m. 


tlic  Indians  in  executing  simihir  designs  upon  tlieir  robes 
and  lodges.  A  busy  scene  was  enacting  in  the  area. 
TIh!  wagons  of  Vaskiss,  an  okl  trader,  were  aliout  tt>  sot 
(Hit  for  a  remote  jiost  in  the  mountains,  and  the  Canadians 
were  going  throngh  their  preparations  with  all  possible 
bustle,  while  here  and  there  an  Indian  stood  loolving  on 
with  iiui)erturhahle  gravity. 

Fort  Laramii'  is  one  of  the  posts  established  by  the 
'•  American  Fnr  (Jompany,"  which  well-nigh  monopolizes 
the  Indian  trade  of  this  region.  Here  its  olheials  rule 
with  an  al)soluto  sway  ;  the  arm  of  the  United  States  has 
little  force;  for  when  we  were  there,  the  extreme  outposts 
of  her  troo))s  were  about  seven  hundred  miles  to  the  east- 
ward. The  little  fort  is  built  of  bricks  dried  in  the  sun, 
and  externally  is  of  an  obh^ng  form,  with  l)astions  of 
clav,  iu  the  form  of  ordinary  blockhouses,  at  two  of  the 
corners.  The  walls  ai'O  about  (ifteen  feet  high,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  slender  j)alisadc.  The  roofs  of  the  apart- 
ments within,  which  arc  built  close  against  the  walls, 
serve  the  ]>ur])ose  of  a  banquette.  Within,  the  fort  is 
divided  by  a  partition:  on  one  side  is  the  scpiaro  area, 
surrounded  by  the  store-rooms,  offices,  and  apartments 
of  the  inmates  ;  on  the  other  is  the  corra/.  a  narrow  j)lace, 
encompassed  by  the  high  clay  walls,  where  at  night,  or  in 
])resence  of  dangerous  Indians,  the  liorses  and  nudes  of 
the  fort  are  crowded  for  safe  keeping.  'I'lie  main  entrance 
has  two  gates,  with  au  arched  passage  inter\ening.  A 
little  sipiare  window,  high  al)ove  the  ground,  opens  later- 
ally from  an  adjoining  chamber  into  this  |)assage:  so  that 
when  the  inner  gate  is  closed  and  harried,  a  pei'son  with- 
out inav  still  hold  connuunication  with  those  within, 
through  this  narrow  aperture.  This  obviates  the  neces- 
sity of  admitting  suspiciinis  Indians,  for  purj)Oses  of 
tradintr,  into  the  bodv  of  the  fort;   for  when  danucr  is 


ill 
II 


-  I  ^!5 


■ 


•  Wt ! 


#>• 


\\l' 


100 


THE    OIIEGON     TRAIL. 


appri'lii'iidcil.  tlu'  inner  giito  is  sluit  fust,  and  all  traffic 
is  cnn-iod  on  by  means  of  the  window.  Tliis  j)rceantion, 
thonjih  nte'cssary  at  some  of  the  Company's  j)osts,  is 
seldom  resorted  to  at  Fort  Laramie  ;  where,  thoni^h  men 
are  friMpiently  killed  in  the  nei^hliorjiood,  no  apprehen- 
sions are  felt  of  any  general  designs  of  hostility  from 
the  Indians. 

AVe  did  ntjt  long  enjoy  our  new  (piarters  undisturbed. 
The  door  was  silently  pushed  oi)en,  and  two  eyeballs  and 
a  visage  as  black  as  night  looked  in  upon  us;  then  a  red 
arm  and  slioidder  intruded  themselves,  and  a  tall  Indian, 
gliding  in.  shook  us  by  the  hand,  grunted  his  salutation, 
and  sat  down  on  the  iloor.  Others  followed,  with  laces 
of  the  natural  hue,  and  letting  fall  their  heavy  robes  from 
their  shoulders,  took  their  seats,  (juite  at  ease,  in  a  semi- 
circle before  us.  The  pipe  was  now  to  be  lighted  and 
passed  fiom  one  to  another;  and  this  was  the  oidy  enter- 
tainment that  at  ])resent  they  expected  from  us.  These 
visitors  were  fathers,  brothers,  or  other  i-elatives  of  the 
S(juaws  in  the  fort,  where  they  were  jx'rmitted  to  remain, 
loitering  about  in  perfect  idleness.  iVll  those  wlio  smoked 
with  us  were  men  of  standing  and  repute.  Two  or  three 
others  dropj)ed  in  also;  young  fellows  who  neitlier  by 
their  years  nor  their  exploits  were  entitled  to  rank  with 
the  olil  men  and  warriors,  and  who,  aliashed  in  the  j)res- 
ence  of  their  superiors,  stood  aloof,  never  withdrawing 
their  eyes  from  us.  Their  cheeks  were  adorned  with 
vermilion,  their  ears  with  i)endants  of  shell,  and  their 
necks  with  beads.  Never  yet  having  signalized  them- 
selves as  hunters,  or  performed  the  honoral)le  exploit  of 
killing  a  man,  they  were  held  in  slight  esteem,  and  were 
ditVident  and  bashful  in  pro})ortion.  Certain  formidable 
inconveniences  attended  this  influx  of  visitors.  They 
were  bent  on  inspecting  every  thing  in  the  room ;    our 


IralTic 
utu)n, 
sts,  irt 
li  lueu 
rchcn- 
r  IVom 

(irbcd. 

Us  uikI 

I  u  ret  I 

Imlian, 

itatioii, 

Ih  laces 

les  IVom 

a  semi- 
ted  and 

iy  enter- 
riieso 

^4  of  the 
veuiain, 
smoked 
or  three 
ther  by 
uk  with 
lie  \)res- 
d  rawing 
ed  with 
id  tlieir 
d  thcm- 
^ploit  of 
id  w^erc 
niidable 
.     They 
m;   our 


SCENES    AT    FORT    LARAMIE. 


101 


equipments  and  our  dross  alike  underwent  tlieir  scrutiny  : 
I'or  thotiuli  the  eontrnry  has  been  asserted,  few  liciiiL^s 
have  more  curiosity  tlian  Indians  in  repird  to  sulijc^cts 
within  their  ordinary  ran<re  of  thouiilit.  As  to  other 
matters,  indeed.  th(>y  seem  utterly  indiflerent.  Tlicy  will 
not  ti'onble  themselves  to  in(|uii'e  into  whnt  tlicy  cannot 
comprehend,  but  are  (piitc  contented  to  place  their  hands 
over  their  mouths  in  token  of  wonder,  and  exclaim  that 
it  is  "•  g'reat  medicine."  Willi  this  comprehensive  solu- 
tion, an  Indian  never  is  at  a  loss,  lie  never  launches 
into  speculation  and  conjecture  ;  his  reason  moves  in  its 
beaten  track.  Ilis  soul  is  dormant ;  and  no  exertions  of 
the  missionaries,  Jesuit  or  Puritan,  of  the  old  woild  or 
of  the  new,  have  as  yet  availed  to  arouse  it. 

As  we  were  lookinjr,  at  sunset,  from  the  wall,  upon  the 
desolate  plains  that  surround  the  fort,  we  observed  a 
cluster  of  strange  objects,  like  scaffolds,  risinii"  in  the  dis- 
tance against  the  red  western  sky.  They  bore  aloft  some 
singular-looking  burdens;  and  at  their  foot  glimmered 
something  white,  like  bones.  This  was  the  place  of  sepul- 
ture of  some  Dahcotah  chiefs,  whose  remains  their  jieoplo 
arc  fond  of  jtlacing  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort,  in  the  hope 
that  they  may  thus  be  protected  from  violation  at  the 
hands  of  their  enemies.  Yet  it  has  happened  more  than 
once,  and  quite  recently,  that  war  parties  of  the  Ciow 
Indians,  ranging  through  the  country,  have  thrown  the 
iiodicsfrom  the  scatfolds,  and  broken  them  to  j)ieces,  amid 
the  yells  of  the  Dahcotah,  who  remained  ])ent  uj)  in  the 
fort,  too  few  to  defend  the  honored  relics  from  insult. 
The  white  ol)jects  upon  the  ground  were  buOalo  skulls, 
arranged  in  the  mystic  circle,  commonly  seen  at  Indian 
places  of  sejnilture  upon  the  prairie. 

We  soon  discovered,  in  the  twilight,  a  band  of  fifty  or 
sixty  horses  api)roaching  the  fort.     These  were  the  an- 


i 


iii  i 


iMii*' 


UYl 


TliE    OIIKGON    TUAIL. 


■if 


'1! 


iiuals  lidon^iii;^  lo  tlu;  estiil)lisliiuc'iit  ;  who,  liaviii^  Ih'CU 
sunt  out  lo  Iced,  iimlci'  the  cure  of  armed  nunrds,  in  the 
meadows  IhIow,  wore  now  hein^j;  di'lven  into  the  corntl 
lor  I  lie  ni^ht.  A  gate  opeiied  into  tliis  incdosure:  by  tho 
side  ol"  it  stood  uwv,  ol"  the  guards,  an  ohl  (!anadian,  witli 
gray  hiishy  eyebrows,  and  a  (U'agoon-pistol  stuck  into  Ids 
beh  ;  whih'  his  eonu'ado,  mounted  on  horseback,  his  rillo 
hiid  across  the  saddle  in  I'ront,  and  liis  long  hair  blowing 
before  his  swarthy  face,  rode  at  tlio  rear  of  the  disorderly 
troop,  nrgiiig  them  up  the  ascent.  In  *  moment  tho 
narrow  corral  was  thronged  with  the  half-wild  horses, 
kicking,  biting,  and  crowding  restlessly  together. 

'i'lie  discordant  jingling  of  a  bell,  rung  by  a  Canadian 
in  the  ai'ea.  summoned  us  to  supper.  The  I'cpast  was 
served  on  a  rough  table  in  one  of  the  lower  a])artments 
of  the  fort,  and  consisted  of  cakes  of  bread  and  dried 
buffalo  meat  —  an  excellent  thing  for  strengthening  the 
teeth.  At  this  meal  were  seated  the  bonri/cois  and  supe- 
rior dignitaries  of  the  establishment,  among  whom  Henry 
Chatillon  was  worthily  included.  No  sooner  was  it 
linishcd,  than  the  tabic  was  sj)read  a  second  time  (tho 
luxury  of  bread  being  now,  however,  omitted),  for  the 
benefit  of  certain  hunters  and  trapjiers  of  an  inferior 
standing  ;  while  ^'ic  ordinary  Canadian  cni/af/es  were  I'e- 
galcd  on  dried  meat  in  one  of  their  lodging  rooms.  F>y 
way  of  illustrating  the  domestic  economy  of  Fort  Laramie, 
it  may  not  be  amiss  to  introduce  in  this  place  a  story  cur- 
rent among  the  men  when  we  were  there. 

There  was  an  old  man  named  Pierre,  whose  duty  it  was 
to  bring  the  meat  from  the  store-room  for  the  men.  Old 
Pierre,  in  the  kindness  of  his  heart,  used  to  select  the 
fattest  and  the  best  pieces  for  his  companions.  This  did 
not  long  escape  the  keen-eyed  bourgeois,  who  was  greatly 
disturbed  at  such  improvidence,  and  cast  about  for  some 


^1 J 


SCKNIIS    AT    rOKT    I-ARAMIF.. 


10:3 


been 
n  tho 
corral 
)y  tho 
,  with 
lo  hirt 
s  ritlo 
owing 
nlcrly 
jit  tho 

llOl'SCS, 

lUKliau 

ist  was 

•tmonts 

1  dried 

ing  the 

[id  sn  1  te- 
ll eniy 
was    it 

|nc  Ctl\c 
l\)i-  the 
inferior 
,-cre  re- 

s.    By 
aramie, 
ory  cur- 
it  was 
II.     Old 
lect  the 
This  did 
greatly 
)r  some 


means  to  stoj»  it.  At  hist  lie  lilt  on  a  plan  that  exactly 
snited  him.  At  the  side;  of  the  nu'ul-i'ooni.  and  si'|iai'ati'd 
IVoni  it  l>y  a  elay  partition,  was  another  ajiarlincnt,  nscd 
l\)V  the  st(ira<j;('  <»('  lurs.  It  had  no  eoninnmication  with 
the  t'oit,  I'xeept  thron^h  a  stpiare  hole  in  the  partition; 
and  of  I'onrsc  it  was  pcrfeetly  dark.  Une  evcninj^"  tho 
/•uiin/i'iix,  watehin<r  lor  u  njonicnt  when  no  one  olisorved 
liini,  dodged  iido  the  nicat-rooni,  rlanihercd  through  tho 
hole,  and  ensconeed  hiniscdf  anioni;'  the  furs  and  ladlalo- 
rolies.  Soon  after,  old  I'ierre  eanie  in  with  his  lantern; 
and,  nudtering  to  hinisidf,  began  to  pnll  over  the  Itahss 
of  meat,  and  select  the  best  pieees,  as  nsnal.  Ihit  snd- 
denly  a  hollow  and  sepnlehrul  voiee  proceeded  from  tho 
inner  room:  "  Pierre,  Pierre  !  jjct  that  fat  meat  alone. 
Take  nothing  but  lean."  Pierre  drojtped  his  lantern,  and 
bolted  out  ii.io  the  fort,  screanung,  in  an  agony  of  terror, 
that  the  (U'vil  was  in  the  store-room;  bid  tripping  on  the 
threshold,  he  pitched  over  upon  the  gravel,  and  lay  sense- 
less, stunned  by  the  fall.  The  Canadians  ran  out  to  tho 
rescue.  Some  lifted  the  unlucky  Pierre ;  and  others, 
making  an  extempore  crucifix  of  two  sticks,  were  j)ro- 
ceeding  to  attack  the  devil  in  his  stronghold,  when  tho 
buiu'i/rois,  with  a  crestfallen  countenance,  appeared  at 
tiie  door.  To  add  to  his  mortification,  la;  was  obliged  to 
explain  the  whole  stratagem  to  Pierre,  in  order  to  bring 
him  to  his  senses. 

We  were  sitting,  on  the  following  morning,  in  tho 
passage-way  between  the  gates,  conversing  with  the  traders 
Vaskiss  and  May.  These  two  men,  together  with  our 
sleek  friend,  the  clerk  Monthalon,  were,  1  believe,  tho 
only  })ersons  then  in  the  fort  who  could  read  and  write. 
May  was  telling  a  curious  story  about  the  traveller  Catlin, 
when  an  ugly,  diminutive  Indian,  wretchedly  mounted, 
came  up  at  a  gallop,  and  rode  by  us  into  the  fort.     On 


|i    ill' 


m 

fl. 

1    H 
1 

81 

M    illil 


m  I- 


104 


TFIE    OIirciON    TRAIL. 


l)oiii(r  r|ii('sti<ino<l,  ho  said  flint  Rnioko'H  villnjjn  wa><  closo 
n,(  liiiMil.  Aci'oi'diiitrly  only  a  W'w  miimlcs  claiisrd  lidoro 
flic  lulls  Itcyoiid  the  liver  were  coviM'txl  with  u  disoiMJcily 
swiiim  nl"  savaucH,  on  horschiick  and  on  loot.  May  (in- 
ishcd  his  story  ;  and  l>y  thai  time  the  whole  army  had 
deseendeij  to  Fiiiraniie  Ci'cek,  and  liej'iin  to  ci'ohs  it  in  a 
mass.  1  walked  down  to  the  hank.  Tiu' stream  is  wide, 
and  was  then  hetween  three  and  I'onr  leet  deep,  with  u 
very  swift  eiu'rent.  For  several  ro(ls  th(!  water  was  alivo 
with  dons,  horses,  and  Indians.  The  lonu  poles  usecl  in 
jiitchint!;  the  lod<:es  are  carried  hy  the  horses,  fastened 
hy  the  heavier  end,  two  or  three  on  each  side,  to  a  rude 
sort  of  pack-saddle,  while  the  other  end  draus  (>n  the 
ground.  Al»out  a  foot  hehind  the  horse,  a  kind  of  largo 
hasket  or  ]iannier  is  snspende*!  hetween  the  poUjs,  and 
firndy  lashed  in  its  place.  On  the  hack  of  the  horse 
ai"e  piled  various  articles  of  luggage  ;  the  hasket  also  is 
well  Idled  with  domestic  utensils,  or,  (|uite  as  oftt-n,  with 
a  littei-  of  puppies,  a  hrood  of  small  children,  or  a  super- 
annuated old  man.  Nnml>ers  of  these  curious  vehicles, 
train('((uj\  or,  as  the  (.'anadians  called  them,  tmiuinj.,  were 
now  splashing  together  through  the  stream.  Among 
them  swam  countless  dogs,  often  l)urdened  with  miniature 
tntiiwau.r ;  and  dashing  forward  on  horschack  through 
the  throng  came  the  warriors,  the  slender  figure  of  some 
lynx-eved  hov  clingiiui"  fast  hehind  them.  The  women 
sat  perched  on  the  pack-saddles,  adding  not  a  little  to  the 
load  of  the  already  overi)urdeiicd  horses.  The  confusion 
was  prodigious.  The  dogs  yelled  and  howled  in  chorus  ; 
the  puppies  in  the  tniinoaux  set  up  a  dismal  whine  as  the 
water  invaded  their  comfortable  retreat ;  the  little  black- 
eyed  children,  from  one  year  of  age  upward,  clung  fast 
with  both  hands  to  the  edge  of  their  basket,  and  looked 
over  in  alarm  at  the  water  rushing  so  near  them,  sputter- 


SCI'.NKS    AT    lOUr     I.AUAMIi;. 


in: 


rdi'i'ly 
iiy  i'ln- 
y  luitl 
it  in  a 
<  \vi(U', 
witli  a 
s  nlivn 
ihimI  ill 

\St(Ml(Ml 

ii  riulo 

(Ml  tlif 
1)1'  liirjro 
cs,  and 
(!  horse 
t  also  is 

n,  with 
11  siqu'r- 

chicU'S, 

(.l\  NVCl-O 

Among 
iuiaturc 
jthrough 
)['  some 
women 
e  to  the 
infusion 
•honis  ; 
3  as  the 
;  hlack- 
Img  fast 
looked 
sputter- 


ing nnd  iu;il<ing  wry  nioiifhH  aa  it  splashecl  n^miiist  their 
fiii'Crt.  Some  oftht'  (h>'j:s,  cnciiinlicretl  hy  their  load,  were 
earried  down  l»y  the  enrrent,  y<d|>inif  piteously  ;  and  the 
old  squaws  would  lush  into  th(>  water,  seize  their  I'avoriteH 
hy  the  nei'k,  and  drag  them  out.  As  eai'h  horse  gaine(l 
the  hank,  he  seramhled  nj»  as  Ik^  eould.  Stray  horses 
nnd  colts  came  among  the  rest,  olten  Wreaking  away  at 
full  s|io«'d  through  the  crowd,  followed  liy  the  old  hags, 
Hereaming  after  their  fashion  on  all  occasions  of  excite- 
ment. Iluxom  young  squaws,  hlooming  in  all  the  idmrms 
of  vermilion,  stood  here  and  there  on  the  hank,  holding 
aloft  their  master's  lance,  as  a  signal  to  colled  the  scat- 
tered portions  of  his  liousehold.  In  a  few  moments  the 
ci'owd  melted  away  ;  each  family,  with  its  horses  and 
ei|uipage,  tiling  off  to  the  plain  at  the  rear  of  the  fort  ; 
and  here,  in  the  s|)aee  of  half  an  hour,  arose  sixty  or 
seventy  of  their  tapering  lodges.  Their  hoi'si-s  were 
feeding  hy  hundreds  over  the  surrounding  prairie,  and 
their  dogs  were  roaming  everywhere.  The  foil  was  full 
of  warriors,  and  the  children  were  whooping  and  yelling 
incessantly  under  the  walls. 

These  new-comers  were  scarcely  arrived,  when  Bor- 
deaux ran  across  the  fort,  shouting  to  his  s(piaw  to  l)ring 
him  his  s])y-glass.  The  ohedient  Marie,  tlu;  very  niod(d 
of  a  s([naw,  produced  the  instrument,  and  Bordeaux 
hurried  with  it  to  the  wall.  Pointing  it  eastwar.!.  hi; 
ex(daimed,  with  an  oath,  that  the  families  were  coming. 
IJut  a  few  moments  elaj)se<l  heforc  the  heavy  caravan  of 
the  emitrrant  wau'ons  could  he  seen,  steadilv  a<lvanciim 
from  the  hills.  They  gained  the  river,  and,  without  turn- 
ing or  pausing,  plunged  in,  passed  through,  and  slowly 
ascending  the  opposing  liank,  kept  directly  on  their  way 
hy  the  fort  and  the  Indian  village,  until,  gaining  a  spot  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  they  wheeled  into  a  circle.     For 


'•m 


106 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


11     <i 


W^ 


liM 


some  time  our  traiuiuillify  Avas  inulisturbcd.  Tlie  emi- 
grants were  prei)ariiig' tlicir  eii('anii»meiit ;  hut  no  sooner 
was  this  iU'cnm{)lishod,  than  Fort  Laramie  was  taken  by 
storm.  A  crowd  of  hroad-i)rinuned  hats,  thin  visages, 
and  staring  eyes,  ai)j)eared  suddenly  at  the  gate.  Tall, 
awkward  men,  in  brown  homosj)un  ;  women,  with  cadav- 
erous faces  and  long  lank  figures,  came  thronging  in 
together,  and,  as  if  insj)ired  by  the  very  demon  of  curios- 
ity, ransacked  every  nook  and  corner  of  the  fort.  Dis- 
mayed at  this  invasion,  we  withdrew  in  all  speed  to  our 
chamber,  vainly  hoping  tluit  it  might  prove  a  sanctuary. 
The  emigrants  prosecuted  their  investigations  with  untir- 
ing vigor.  They  penetrated  the  rooms,  or  rather  dens, 
iidiabited  by  the  astonished  squaws.  Resolved  to  search 
every  mystery  to  the  bottom,  they  explored  the  apart- 
ments of  the  men,  and  even  that  of  Marie  and  the  hour- 
ijcois.  At  last  a  numerous  deputation  ap))eared  at  our 
door,  but  found  no  encouragement  to  remain. 

Having  at  length  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they  next 
proceeded  to  business.  The  men  occupied  themselves  in 
])rocuring  sujtplies  for  their  onward  journey  ;  either  buy- 
ing them,  or  giving  in  exchange  superfluous  articles  of 
their  own. 

The  emigrants  felt  a  violent  ])rejudice  against  the 
French  Indians,  as  they  called  the  trap])ers  and  traders. 
They  thought,  and  with  some  reason,  that  these  men  bore 
them  no  good-will.  Many  of  them  were  firmly  persuaded 
that  the  French  were  instigating  the  Indians  to  attack 
and  cut  them  off.  On  visiting  the  encamj)ment  we  were 
at  once  struck  with  the  extraordinary  perplexity  and 
indecision  that  })revailed  among  them.  They  seemed  like 
men  totally  out  of  their  element;  bewildered  and  amazed, 
like  a  troop  of  schoolboys  lost  in  the  woods.  It  was 
impossible  to  be  long  among  them  without  being  con- 


cmi- 
ooiicr 
cu  by 
sages, 

Tall, 
cadav- 
ng  in 
curios- 
Dis- 
to  our 
ituary. 

iiiitir- 

•  dens, 

search 

apai't- 

le  bour- 

at  our 

y  next 
Ives  in 
er  buy- 
cles  of 

ist   the 

iradcrs. 

!n  bore 

Isuadcd 

attack 
re  Ave  re 
[y    and 

icd  like 
jmazcd. 

It  was 

I  SI  con- 


SCENES    AT    FORT    LARAMIE. 


107 


scions  of  the  bokl  spirit  with  wliicli  most  of  tlicm  were 
animated.  I'»ul  the  forest  is  the  liome  of  tlie  backwoods- 
man. On  the  remote  prairie  lie  is  totally  at  a  loss,  lie 
differs  as  nuieli  from  the  genuine  ''  mountain-man"  as  a 
Canadian  voyageur,  paddling  his  canoe  on  the  rapids  of 
the  Ottawa,  diffi'rs  i'rom  an  American  sailor  among  the 
storms  of  Cape;  Horn.  Still  my  com))anion  and  I  were 
somewhat  at  a  loss  to  account  for  this  perturbed  state  of 
mind.  It  conld  not  be  cowardice:  these  men  wei'c  of  the 
same  stock  with  the  volunteers  of  Monterey  and  Bucna 
A'ista.  Yet,  for  the  most  part,  they  were  the  rudest  and 
most  ignorant  of  the  frontier  population  ;  they  knew 
absolutely  nothing  of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants; 
they  had  already  experienced  much  misfortune,  and 
a)ti)rehended  more  ;  they  had  seen  nothing  of  mankind, 
and  had  never  {»nt  their  own  resources  to  the  test. 

A  full  shave  of  susj)icion  fell  ii))on  us.  ]]cing  strangers, 
we  were  looked  u])on  as  enemies.  Having  occasion  for  a 
supply  of  lead  and  a  few  other  necessary  articles,  we  used 
to  go  over  to  the  emigrant  camps  to  obtain  them.  After 
some  hesitation,  some  dubious  glances,  and  fumbling  of  the 
hands  in  the  pockets,  the  terms  would  be  agreed  u{)on, 
the  jirice  tendered,  and  the  emigrant  would  go  off  to  l)ring 
the  article  in  question.  After  waiting  until  our  ])atiencc 
gave  ont,  we  would  go  in  search  of  him,  and  find  liim 
scatiMl  on  the  tongue  of  his  wagon. 

"  Well,  stranger,"  he  would  observe,  as  he  saw  ns  ap- 
proach, '*  1  reckon  I  won't  trade." 

Some  friend  of  his  had  ibllowed  him  from  the  scene  of 
the  bargain,  and  whisjiered  in  his  ear  that  clearly  we  meant 
to  cheat  him,  and  he  had  better  have  nothing  to  do  with  us. 

This  timorous  mood  of  the  emigrants  was  doubly  un- 
fortunate, as  it  exposed  them  to  real  danger.  Assume,  in 
the  jirc'scncc  of  Indians,  a  bold  bearing,  self-conlident  yet 


;  ;t 


«■■■  ; 


111 


'i 


ri! 


i 


^i 


1^ 


ill 


108 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


!f  i; 


vigilant,  and  yon  will  find  tlicni  tolerably  safe  neighbors. 
IJnt  yonr  safety  depends  on  the  rcs|)ect  and  fear  yon  are 
aide  to  inspire.  Jf  yon  betray  timidity  or  indecision,  you 
convert  thcni  from  Hint  nionieid  into  insidions  and  dan- 
gerous enemies.  The  Dahcotah  saw  clearly  enough  the 
perlurl)ation  of  the  emigrants,  and  instantly  availed  them- 
selves of  it.  They  became  extremely  insolent  and  exact- 
ing in  their  demands.  It  has  become  an  established 
custom  with  them  to  go  to  the  camp  of  every  party,  as  it 
arrives  in  succession  at  the  Ibrt,  and  demand  a  feast. 
Smoke's  village  had  come  with  this  express  design,  hav- 
ing nuidc  several  days' Journey  with  no  other  object  than 
that  of  enjoying  a  cup  of  coffee  and  two  or  three  biscuit, 
^o  the  "  feast"  was  denumded,  and  the  emigrants  dared 
not  refuse  it. 

One  evening,  aliout  sunset,  the  village  was  deserted. 
Wc  met  old  men,  warriors.  s(|uaws,  and  children  in  gay 
attire.  trooj)ing  off  to  the  encampment,  with  faces  of  an- 
ticipation ;  and,  arriving  here,  tliey  seated  tliemselves  in 
a  semicircle.  Smoke  occupied  the  centre,  with  his  war- 
riors on  either  hand  ;  the  voung  men  and  bovs  came  next, 
and  the  s(iuaws  and  children  formed  the  horns  of  the 
crescent.  The  biscuit  and  coffee  wei'e  promptly  des- 
patclied,  the  emigrants  staring  open-mouthed  at  their 
savage  guests.  With  eacli  emigrant  i>arty  that  arrived 
at  Fort  Laramie  this  scene  was  renewed  ;  and  everv  day 
the  Indians  grew  more  rapacious  and  presumptuous.  One 
evening  they  broke  in  pieces,  out  of  mere  wantonness,  the 
cups  from  which  they  had  been  feasted  ;  and  tliis  so  ex- 
as})erated  the  emigrants,  that  many  of  them  seized  their 
rifles  and  could  scarcely  be  restrained  from  firing  on  the 
insolent  mob  of  Indians.  Before  wc  left  the  country  this 
dangerous  sjiirit  on  the  ])art  of  the  D-ahcotah  had  mounted 
to  a  yet  higher  pitch.     They  began  openly  to  threaten  the 


g^aJB 


f 


SCENES    AT    FORT    LARAMIE. 


109 


'if  n 


I 


m 


Ml 


libors. 
oil  arc 
111,  you 
d  daii- 
igh  the 
i  thcm- 
exact- 
1  dished 
y,  as  it 
L  feast. 
11,  hav- 
et  than 
biscuit, 
s  dared 

csevted. 
in  gay 
IS  of  aii- 
.^Ives  in 
lis  war- 
lie  next, 
of  the 
ly  des- 
\\  their 
arrived 
icrv  day 
,s.    One 
CSS,  the 
so  ex- 
d  their 
on  the 
ry  this 
ounted 
ten  the 


emigrants  witli  destruction,  and  actually  (ircd  upon  one  or 
two  parties  of  thcui.  A  military  force  and  military  hiw 
arc  urgently  called  foi'  in  that  perilous  region  ;  and  ludcss 
troojjs  arc  speedily  slationcd  at  Fort  Laiamic,  or  else- 
where in  Ihc  neighltorhood,  both  emigiants  and  other 
travellers  will  lie  exposed  to  most  imminent  risks. 

The  Ogillallah,  the  ]>rule,  and  the  other  western  bands 
of  the  Dahcotah  or  Sit)ux,  arc  thorough  savages,  un- 
changed by  any  contact  with  civilization.  Not  one  of 
them  can  speak  a  Euro])ean  tongue,  or  has  ever  visited  an 
American  settlement.  Until  within  a  year  or  two,  when 
the  emigrants  began  to  pass  through  their  country  on  the 
way  to  Oregon,  they  had  seen  no  whites,  except  the  few 
emph)yed  about  tlie  Fur  Company's  ])osts.  They  thought 
them  a  wise  })eople,  inferior  only  to  themselves,  living  in 
leather  lodges,  like  their  own,  and  subsisting  on  buffalo. 
But  when  the  swarm  oi'  JL')ir<(ska,  with  their  oxen  and 
wagons,  began  to  invade  them,  their  astonishment  was 
unliounded.  They  could  scarcely  believe  that  the  earth 
contained  such  a  multitude  of  white  men.  Their  wonder 
is  now  giving  way  to  indignation  ;  and  the  result,  unless 
vigilantly  guarded  against,  may  be  lamentable  in  the  ex- 
treme. 

But  to  glance  at  the  interior  of  a  lodge.  Shaw  and  I 
used  often  to  visit  them.  Indeed  we  spent  most  of  our 
evenings  in  the  Indian  village,  Shaw's  assumption  of  the 
medical  character  giving  us  a  fair  ])rctext.  As  a  sanijde 
of  the  rest  I  will  describe  one  of  tliesc  visits.  The  sun 
had  just  set,  and  the  hoi'ses  were  driven  into  the  corral. 
The  Prairie  Cock,  a  noted  beau,  came  in  at  the  gate 
with  a  bevy  of  young  girls,  with  whom  he  begun  a  dance 
ill  the  area,  leading  them  round  and  round  in  a  circle, 
while  he  jerked  up  from  his  chest  a  succession  of  monot- 
onous sounds,  to  which  they  kept  time  in  a  rueful  chant. 


m 


m 


m 


4     sImj 

vm 


d 


'illl 

'I! 


ii  i 


110 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


Outside  the  gate  boys  and  younp?  mon  were  idly  frolicking ; 
and  close  by,  looking  grimly  upon  them,  stood  a  warrior 
in  his  robe,  with  his  lace  painted  jet-black,  in  token  that 
he  had  lately  taken  a  Pawnee  scalp.  Passing  these,  the 
tall  dark  lodges  rose  between  us  and  the  red  western  sky. 
We  rcjiaired  at  once  to  the  lodge  of  Old  Smoke  himself. 
It  was  by  no  means  better  than  the  others  ;  indeed,  it  was 
rather  shabby ;  for  in  this  democratic  community  the  chief 
never  assumes  superior  state.  Smoke  sat  cross-legged  on 
a  butfalo-rohe,  and  his  grunt  of  salutation  as  we  entered 
w\as  umisually  cordial,  out  of  respect  no  doubt  to  Shaw's 
medical  character.  Seated  around  the  lodge  were  several 
squaws,  and  an  abundance  of  children.  The  complaint 
of  Shaw's  ])atients  was,  for  the  most  i)art,  a  severe  inflam- 
mation of  the  eyes,  occasioned  by  exposure  to  the  sun,  a 
S|)ecies  of  disorder  which  he  treated  with  some  success. 
He  had  brought  with  him  a  homoeopathic  medicine-chest, 
and  was,  I  presume,  the  first  who  introduced  that  harm- 
less system  of  treatment  among  the  Ouillallah.  No  sooner 
had  a  robe  been  spread  at  the  head  of  the  lodge  foi-  our 
accommodation,  and  we  had  seated  ourselves  upon  it, 
than  a  ])atient  made  her  appearance  :  the  chief's  daughter 
herself,  who,  to  do  her  justice,  was  the  best-looking  girl 
in  the  village.  Being  on  excellent  terms  with  the  physi- 
cian, she  })laced  herself  readily  under  his  hands,  and  sub- 
mitted with  a  good  grace  to  his  applications,  laughing  in 
his  face  during  the  whole  process,  for  a  s{pia\v  hardly 
knows  how  to  smile.  This  case  despatched,  another  of 
a  dilferent  kind  succeeded.  A  hideous,  emaciated  old  wo- 
man sat  in  the  darkest  corner  of  the  lodge,  rocking  to  and 
fro  with  pain,  and  hiding  her  eyes  from  the  light  l>y  press- 
ing the  palms  of  both  hands  against  her  face.  At  Smoke's 
connnand  she  came  forward,  very  unwillingly,  and  ex- 
liibited  a  pair  of  eyes  that  had  nearly  disapi)earcd   from 


>l 


■I 


SCENES    AT    FORT    LARAMIE. 


Ill 


king ; 
arrior 

I  that 
,c,  the 

II  sky. 
iiisolf. 
it  was 
3  chief 
o'cd  on 
lite  red 
•thaw's 
several 
nphiint 
iiifiam- 

siin,  a 
;ucccss. 
c-chest, 
harm- 
sooner 
'or  our 
\)on   it, 
uitilitor 
|n;j:  girl 
|)hy3i- 
jid  sub- 
hinp;  in 
hardly 
her  of 
old  wo- 
to  and 
I'  ]ircss- 
Inioke's 
nd  ex- 
ll  from 


1 


excess  of  inflammation.  No  sooner  had  the  doctor  fastened 
Ills  grip  upon  lier,  than  slie  set  up  a  dismal  moaning,  and 
writhed  so  in  his  grasp  that  lie  lost  all  ))atience;  hut  licing 
rcsolv('(l  to  carry  his  j)uint,  he  succeeded  at  last  in  apply- 
ing his  favorite  remedies. 

^  it  is  strange,"  he  said,  when  the  ojieration  was  lin- 
ished,  "  that  I  forgot  to  bring  any  Spanish  Hies  with  me  ; 
we  must  have  something  here  to  answer  for  a  counter- 
irritant." 

Ho,  in  the  absence  of  better,  he  seized  upon  a  red-hot 
brand  from  the  fire,  and  clapped  it  against  the  temple  of 
the  old  s(pia\v,  who  set  uji  an  unearthly  howl,  at  which  the 
rest  of  the  family  broke  into  a  laugh. 

During  these  medical  operations  Smoke's  eldest  squaw 
entered  the  lodge,  with  a  mallet  in  her  hand,  the  stone 
head  of  which.  {)recisely  like  those  sometimes  jdoughed 
up  in  the  fields  of  New  England,  was  made  fast  to  the 
hiindle  l)y  a  covering  of  raw  hide.  1  had  observed  some 
time  before  a  litter  of  well-grown  black  puppies,  comfort- 
ably nestled  among  some  buffalo-robes  at  one  side  ;  but 
this  new-comer  speedily  disturbed  their  enjoyment ;  for 
seizing  one  of  them  by  the  hind  j)aw,  she  dragged  him 
out,  and  carrying  him  to  the  entrance  of  the  lodge,  ham- 
mered him  on  the  head  till  she  killed  him.  Conscious  to 
what  this  })re])arati()n  tended,  I  looked  through  a  hole  in 
the  back  of  the  lodge  to  see  the  next  steps  of  the  j)i'ocess. 
The  squaw,  holding  the  ])n])py  by  the  legs,  was  swinging 
him  to  and  fro  through  the  blaze  of  a  fire,  until  the  haii- 
was  singed  olf.  This  done,  she  unsheathed  her  knife  ami 
cut  him  into  small  pieces,  which  she  droi)i)ed  into  a  kettle 


to  boil.  In  a  few  moments  a  large  wooden  dish  was  set 
before  us,  filled  with  this  delicate  jtreparation.  A  dog- 
feast  is  the  greatest  compliment  a  Dahcotah  can  ofler  to 
his  guest;  and,  knowing  that  to  refuse  eating  would  be  an 


'I 


11/2 


TIJE    OUiXiON    'lUAIL. 


\\k 


affmut,  wc  attacked  thu  little  dog,  and  devoured  him 
before  the  eyes  of  his  luieoiiscious  parent.  Hnioke  in  the 
mean  time  was  ])rei)aring  his  great  pipe.  It  was  lighted 
when  wc  had  linished  our  repast,  and  we  jjassed  it  from 
one  to  another  till  the  howl  was  empty.  'J'his  done,  we 
took  our  leave  without  farther  ceremony,  knoc;ked  at  the 
gate  of  the  fort,  and  after  making  ourselves  known,  were 
admitted. 


w 
li 

1" 
ill 

th 


L  bim 
in  the 
i<ihte(i 
.  IVom 
nc,  wc 
at  the 
1,  were 


CHAPTER  X. 


THE      W  A  11      PARTI  E  S. 


'T^lIE  summer  of  1840  was  a  season  of  warlike  excitc- 
-*•  mciit  among  all  the  western  l)ands  of  the  Dalieotah. 
In  184")  they  eneountered  great  reverses.  Many  war 
jiarties  liad  been  sent  out;  some  of  them  bad  been  eut 
off,  and  others  bad  returned  broken  and  disheartened;  so 
that  the  whole  nation  was  in  mourning.  Among  the  rest, 
ten  warriors  bad  gone  to  the  Hnake  eountry,  led  hy  the 
son  of  a  [»rominent  Ogillallah  ebief,  ealled  The  Whiilwind. 
In  })assing  over  Laramie  Plains  they  eneountered  a  supe- 
rior nunruer  of  their  enemies,  were  surrounded,  and  killed 
to  a  man.  Having  {)erformed  this  exploit,  the  Siuikes 
became  alarmed,  dreading  the  resentment  of  the  Dabeotab, 
and  they  hastened  therefore  to  signify  their  wish  for  peace 
\)y  sending  the  scalp  of  the  slain  partisan,  with  a  small 
)»arcel  of  tobacco  attached,  to  his  tribesmen  and  relations. 
They  had  enijjloycd  old  Vaskiss,  the  trader,  as  their  mes- 
senger, and  the  scalp  was  the  same  that  bung  in  our 
room  at  the  fort.  But  The  Whirlwind  ])roved  inexorable. 
Though  his  character  hardly  corresponds  with  his  name, 
li(^  is  nevertheless  an  Indian,  and  hates  the  Snakes  with  his 
whole  soul.  Long  before  the  scalp  arrived,  he  had  made 
his  preparations  for  revenge.  lie  sent  messengers  with 
presents  and  tobacco  to  all  the  Daheotah  within  three 
hundred  miles,  proposing  a  grand  combination  to  chastise 
the  Snakes,  and  naming  a  ])lace  and  time  of  rendezvous. 

8 


':! 


^Niii 


n 


\- 


114 


Tin:  ouixjoN  trail. 


Tlic  i»liiii  \v!is  roadily  iuliiptctl,  niid  iit  tliis  iiiomciil  iiiiiny 
villii.ircs,  ])i'(»l)!il(ly  ('iultr!U'iiii;'  in  llic  whole  Unc  or  six 
thousiind  souls,  wci'C  slowly  d'ecpiiiu"  owv  tlif  jiiiiiiics 
and  tcMidiiii;' toward  tlio  conniion  ciMitrc  at  "La  Hoiitr's 
canij),"  on  the  I'lalte.  Hen;  their  waiiike  rites  were  to 
1)G  celebrated  with  moro  tlian  ordinary  solemnity,  and  a 
tlionsand  warriors,  as  it  was  said,  were  to  set  out  lor 
the  enemy's  eountry.  The  characteristic  residt  ol'  this 
prejtaration  will  appear  in  th(!  se([uel. 

1  was  iireatly  rejoiced  to  liear  ot"  it.  1  liad  come  into 
tlie  count rv  t-hieflv  with  a  view  of  ohservint''  the  Jndian 
character.  To  accomplish  my  ])urposc  it  was  jiecessary 
to  live  in  the  midst  of  tliem.  and  become,  as  it  wei-e,  one 
of  them.  1  proposed  to  join  a  villau'e,  and  mak(!  myself 
an  inmate  of  one  of  their  lodues ;  and  hencefoi'wai'd  this 
narrative,  so  far  as  1  am  concerned,  will  be  cliielly  a  record 
of  the  i)ro<^rcss  of  tliis  desijjn,  and  the  unexjiected  impedi- 
ments that  opposed  it. 

We  resolved  on  no  account  to  miss  the  I'cMidezvous  at 
"La  Bonte's  camp,"  Our  plan  was  to  leave  Deslauriers 
at  the  fort,  in  charire  of  our  e(iuipa«2:e  and  the  better  ])art 
of  our  horses,  while  we  took  with  us  nothinu'  but  our 
weapons  and  the  worst  animals  we  had.  Jn  all  j)roba- 
bility.  jealousies  and  quarrels  would  arise  anionu"  so  many 
hordes  of  fierce  impulsive  savages,  conirreu'ated  together 
under  no  connnon  head,  and  many  of  them  strangers 
from  remote  prairies  and  mountains.  We  were  bound  in 
common  prudence  to  be  cautious  how  we  excited  any  feel- 
ing of  cupidity.  This  was  our  j)lan  :  l)ut  unhappily  we 
"were  not  destined  to  visit  ''  La  IJonte's  camp"  in  this 
manner,  for  one  morning  a  young  Indian  came  to  the 
fort  and  brought  us  evil  tidings.  The  new-comer  was  an 
arrant  dandy.  His  ugly  face  was  painted  with  vermilion; 
on  his  head  fluttered  the   tail  of  a  prairie-cock  (a  large 


0 

ti 
e 
a: 


',.1  : 


TIIK    WAIl    TAUTIES. 


115 


,1) 

■''., 
(iill 


innny 
»r  six. 
riiirics 
iouto's 
ci'c  to 
ami   ii 
)Ut    r«)i' 
ol'  this 

nc  into 

Imlian 
•ccssiuy 
rrc.  one 

niyscU' 
iirtl  this 
a  rc('<Ji'(l 
.  iuipedi- 

^'A'ons  at 
lauricrs 
ter  ])iu't 
l)Ut   our 
I  pvoba- 
so  many 
toiii'etlior 
t  rangers 
)()IUh1  in 
any  IVel- 
jipily  we 
in  this 
to  the 
was  an 
rniilion; 
a  large 


species  of  |ih('nsant.  not  fonnd.  iis  1  have  lieanl.  eastward 
oi'  tlie  luteUy  Monntidns)  ;  in  his  ears  wei'e  hnnu'  peii- 
diiiits  of  sliell.  and  a  llannnu"  red  hhinkel  was  \vi'a|i|ied 
ai'dniid  him.  He  eiirried  a  (h'agoon-s\v(»r(l  in  his  hand, 
solely  I'nr  disiilay,  since  tlie  knife,  tlio  ari'ow.  an.l  tlie  ride 
are  tlie  arhiters  (tf  cNcry  |)i'airie  light;  hut  as  iionnein 
this  coiintiT  goes  ahroad  nnarmcd,  tla.'  dandy  carried  a. 
how  and  arrows  in  an  otter-skin  (|uiver  at  his  l)ack.  In 
this  guise,  and  hestriding  his  yellow  horse  with  an  aii-  of 
exti'eme  diginty,  "The  Jforse,"  lor  that  was  his  name, 
roile  in  at  the  gate,  turning  neither  to  the  right  no:-  the 
left,  hut  casting  glances  askance  at  the  gi-oups  of  s(piaws 
who,  with  their  mongrel  jirogeny,  were  sitting  m  the  sun 
hefore  their  doors.  The  evil  tidings  hrouuht  hy  ''  'I'hc 
Iloi'se  "  were  oC  the  Ibllowing  imp(U't;  The  s(iuaw  of 
Hemy  Chatillon,  a  woman  with  whom  he  had  l)een  con- 
nected tor  years  hy  the  strongest  ties  whitdi  in  that  coun- 
try exist  between  the  sexes,  was  dangerously  ill.  She 
iuid  her  children  were  in  tlic  village  of 'J'he  Whirlwind,  at 
the  distance  of  a  few  days'  journey.  Henry  was  anxious 
to  see  the  woman  before  she  died,  and  provide  ibi-  the 
safety  and  su}»j)ort  of  his  children,  of  whom  he  was  ex- 
tremely fond.  To  liave  refused  him  this  would  ha\(' 
been  iuhnmanitv.  We  altandoned  our  i)lan  of  ioininir 
Smoke's  village,  and  [jrocccding  with  it  to  tla,'  I'cnde/- 
vous,  and  determined  to  meet  The  Whirlwind,  and  go  in 
his  company. 

I  had  been  slightly  ill  for  several  weeks,  but  on  the 
third  night  after  reaching  Fort  Lai'amie  a  violent  jiain 
awoke  me,  and  I  found  myself  attacked  liy  the  same  dis- 
order that  occasioned  such  heavy  losses  to  the  army  on 
the  Rio  Grande.  In  a  day  and  a  half  I  M'as  reduced  to 
extreme  weakness,  so  that  I  could  not  walk  without  pain 
and  effort.     Having  no  medical  adviser,  nor  any  choice 


■M 


nil 


rV. 


M 
I'l: 


IK 


I    '   [\ 


'-"H 


'■V'  I     11 


'  •    I  i 


;'l' 


IK) 


THE    OllEOON    TRAIL. 


;      I 


of  diet,  T  rcsolvod  to  throw  iiiysclf  upon  ProvidiMico  for 
locovcrv,  iisiiin-,  without  r('«i'!ird  to  tho  disorder,  iiiiy  por- 
tion of  sirciiiith  that  miiiht  rciuaiM  to  iim;.  So  on  tho 
twentieth  ol'.lnne  wc  set  out  IVoni  Fort  liaraniie  to  meet 
The  Whirlwind's  viUauc.  Tlioujiii  aided  hy  the  hiiih- 
howecl  ••  nioiuitain-saddh!,"  I  eouhl  s(;arcely  keep  my  seat 
on  hoi'sel)aek.  IJelore  W(!  h,'I't  the  tort  wo  liired  another 
nuin,  a  lon^-haired  Canadian,  named  Kaymond,  with  u, 
laeo  like  an  owl's,  contrast inj;  oddly  cuonuh  with  Des- 
lauriers's  mercurial  countenance.  This  was  not  the  oidy 
I'cinforcemeut  to  our  party.  A  vaurant  Indian  trader, 
named  Rcynal.  Joined  us,  tojietlicr  with  his  S(|uaw,  Mar- 
^•ot,  and  her  two  nephews,  otu'  di-udy  IVieiid,  "Tho 
Horse,"  and  his  youn,i;vr  hrothei', '' The  Hail  Storm." 
'IMms  accompanied,  wo  hetook  ourselves  to  tlic  prairio, 
leaving  tho  h<'aten  trail,  and  j)assin,ii,'  over  tiit;  desolate 
hills  that  Hank  tho  valley  of  Laramie  Crock.  In  all, 
Indians  and  whites,  wo  c(junted  eight  men  and  one 
wonuui. 

Jievnal,  the  trader,  tho  imaue  of  sleek  and  selfish  y"nn- 
placoncy,  carried  "Tho  Horse's"  dragoon-sword  in  his 
liand,  didighting  apparently  in  this  useless  ]»arado  ;  for, 
iVom  spending  halt"  his  liCo  among  Indians,  ho  had  caught 
not  only  their  hahits  hut  their  ideas.  jMargot,  a  female 
animal  of  moi-e  than  two  hundred  pounds'  weight,  was 
couched  in  the  l>askot  of  a  trauica ft,  i^xwh  as  1  have  hoforo 
descrili(Ml  :  hcsidcs  her  ponderous  hulk,  various  domestic 
utensil>  were  attached  to  tho  vehicle,  and  she  led  hy  a 
trail-rope  a  jiackhorse,  which  carried  the  covering  of 
Reyual's  lodge.  Deslauriers  walked  !)riskly  hy  the  side 
of  the  cart,  and  IJaymond  came  liohind,  swearing  at  tho 
spare  luirses  which  it  was  his  husinoss  to  drive.  Tho 
restless  young  Indians,  their  quivers  at  their  hacks  and 
their  hows  in  thcii'  hands,  gallo})cd  over  tho  hills,  often 


^ 


Tnn  \vAi{  rAKTirs. 


117 


nc;o  for 
ny  por- 
ou  tho 

()     llKM't, 

I!   hiii.li- 

\\y  st'iit 

anotlun* 

,  with  u 

\h    Drs- 

tlic  only 
trad*'!-, 

iw,  Mar- 

l,    -The 

Storm." 
l)raii'ie, 
(Icsohitc 
lu   all, 

auu    one 

Tish  v'oni- 
d  in  hi^ 
luie  ;   lor, 
1(1  cauiiht 
la  fcuialc 
.gilt,  was 
^c  he tore 
lonicstic 
lied  hy  a 
|'rin<2;    of 
the  side 
[u"  at  the 
■e.     The 
lu'Us  and 
Is,  ol'tcn 


ptar<in<r  a  wdP  or  an  antelope  from  the  thick  "growth  of 
\vild-sa^'e  hnshes.  Sjiaw  and  1  uei'e  in  Ueepini;  with  tin; 
rest  of  the  iMKJc  cavalcade,  havini;'  in  the  failnre  of  other 
elothin<r  adoptetl  the  hnckskin  attire  of  the  trappers. 
Jienry  Chatillon  rode  in  advance  of  the  whole,  'riiiis  wo 
jiassed  hill  alter  hill  and  hollow  after  hollow,  a  conntry 
ai'id,  hrokeii,  and  so  ]iarelied  hy  the  snn  tliat  nniit'  of  the 
jilants  familiar  to  oui-  more  favore(l  soil  wouM  llourish 
upon  it,  thonjih  thei'e  weic  midlitndes  of  strange  niediei- 
lial  herhs,  moi'e  especially  the  ahsinth,  whiidi  covered 
every  declivity,  while  cacti  were  hanginj;  like  reptiles  at 
tlie  edges  of  every  I'avine.  At  length  wo  ascende(l  a  high 
hill,  oiu'  horses  treading  npon  pehhles  (jf  Hint,  agate,  and 
rough  jasper,  until,  gaining  the  top,  wc  looked  down  on 
the  wild  hottoms  of  Laramie  Ci'eok,  Avhich  far  helow  us 
wound  like  a  writhing  snake  from  side  to  sidi'  of  the 
narrow  interval,  amid  a  growth  of  sliattered  cotton-wood 
and  ash  trees,  fjines  of  tall  cliffs,  white  as  chalk,  shut 
in  this  green  strip  of  woods  and  meadow-land,  into  which 
we  descended  and  encamped  for  the  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  passed  a  wide  gi'assy  plain  hy  the  river;  Ihei'C 
was  a  grove  in  front,  and  heneath  its  shadows  the  luins 
of  an  old  trading  fort  of  logs.  The  gi'uve  hluomed  with 
myriads  of  wild  roses,  with  their  sweet  peifume  fraught 
with   recollections   of  liomi .     As  we  enier<ied   IVom  the 


ti'ces,  a  I'attlei^mike,  as 


laru' 


:e  iis  a  man's  arm.  ami  more 


than  four  feet  lonu",  lav  coiled  on  a  I'ock,  liercelv  rattlinir 


and  liissim:'  at  us:  a  u'rav  hai-e,  twice 


as 


arii'e  as 


those 


of  New  England,  leaped  Uj)  from  the  tall  fei'us  :  curlew 
flow  screaming o\er  our  heads,  and  a  host  of  liltl(>  prairic- 
tlogs  sat  yelj)ing  at  us  at  the  mouths  of  theii-  huri'ows  on 
the  dry  plain  heyond.  Suddenly  an  antelope  leaped  up 
from  the  wild-sage  hushes,  gazed  eagerly  at  us,  and  then, 
erecting  his  white  tail,  stretched  away  like  a  greyhound. 


I'k 


M 


!        f 


I    ' 


u 


m 


118 


THE    Oni:CJON    TRAIL. 


Tlic  two  Iiidiaii  hoys  fiiuinl  ii  white  wolf,  iis  Inr^^o  as  a 
I'air.  ill  a  Imllow,  and,  ;ii\iii^'  u  wliaip  yell,  lliry  j:all<>|«('(l 
nflcr  liiiii :  luit  iIm;  wolf  Icaiiol  into  tlu;  stream  and  swam 
across.  'riicii  came  tlic  crack  of  a  liilc,  the  Imllct. 
wliistiinu'  lianiilcssly  over  his  licad,  as  he  sciamhh'd  ii|» 
the  sleep  dechvity,  rattrni«;'  down  stones  and  earth  into 
tlie  water  lielow.  AdvancinjH"  a  litlh*,  w«'  l»eliehl,  on  the 
lUrther  hank  ol'  the  stream,  a  spectach'  not  common  even 
in  that  icnion  ;  lor,  emer^injj;  IVom  amon<2;  tiic  tn-es,  a 
lierd  of  some  two  hundred  elk  came  out  ii|ion  the  meadow, 
their  aiith'is  chitterin^  as  tliey  walked  I'orward  in  a  den.-e 
throiii!'.  Seeing  us,  they  hroke  into  a  run,  rushiii;;'  across 
tlie  opening'  and  disappearinj;  ainonji;  tlie  trees  and  scat- 
tered uroves.  On  oni-  left  was  a  harren  ja'airio,  stretcliin!^ 
to  the  hori/on  :  on  our  riizht,  a  deep  jj;ull',  with  Laramie 
Creek  at  tlie  hottom.  We  iound  ourselves  at  leuuth  at 
the  {'{\<j:r  of  a  steep  descent;  a  narrow  valley,  with  loiii^ 
I'ank  urass  and  scattered  trees  strelcliiiiji,'  helbre  us  for  a 
mile  or  more  alonu"  the  course  of  the  stream.  Keaeliini^ 
the  I'arther  end.  we  stopped  aud  encamped.  A  huiie  old 
cotton-wood  lre(,' spread  its  hi'anches  horizontally  over  our 
tent,  iiaramie  Creek,  circling-  hel'orc  our  "••mp,  half 
inclosed  us;  it  swept  along-  the  bottom  of  a  line  of  tall 
white  (dills  that  looked  down  on  us  from  the  farther  hank. 
'^rher(>  wei"(!  dense  copses  on  our  right ;  the  cliffs,  too, 
were  half  hidden  by  laishcs,  though  heliind  us  a  few 
cotton- wood  ti'ces,  dotting  the  green  ))rairie,  alone  im- 
peded the  view,  and  friend  or  enemy  could  he  discerned 
in  that  direction  at  a  mile's  distance.  Here  we  resolved 
to  I'cmain  and  await  the  arrival  of  Tlie  AVhirlwind,  who 
would  certainly  ]iass  this  way  in  his  ])rogress  towards  La 
Jjonte's  camp.  To  go  in  search  of  him  was  not  exped- 
ient. l)oth  on  account  of  the  broken  and  impractical)le 
nature  of  the  country,  and  the  uncertainty  of  his  position 


I 


1  ■ ,  :r 


;  as  ft 

sNvaiii 

Imllft 
led  up 
ill  into 
oil  tlu) 
n  even 
iriM's,  ii 

I'lUloNV, 

;  uerosrt 
id  Ht'tit- 
ctcliiug 
jaramio 

Mliitll  lit 

th  lon.L!; 

lus  lor  ii 
•iu'irmt^ 
iijjc  old 

),  half 
of  tall 
•r  bank. 
Ts,  too, 
a  f('\v 
)no  ini- 
scerncd 

■('SolV(!d 

id,  who 

ai'ds  La 

expcd- 

■tioaido 


Iposit 


ion 


'JMK    WAU    I'AUriKM. 


11!) 


and    nio\  cnicnls  ;  licsidrs.  onr  liorx's  wcrr  almost    worn 
out,  and   1  was  in  no  condition  lo  tiaNcl.      We  had  <^'ood 


prass. 


l/OOl 


i    water,   tolciahlf   lish   from   the  stream,  and 


jilcnty  of  small   i^amc.  suidi  as  antr!o|it'  and  (N-er,  though 


Ilo  hul'fitlo 


TI 


n-rc  was  onr    lilllc  drawhuck   to  onr  salis- 


fa»'ti<tn:  a  certain  extensive  tract  of  inishes  and  dried 
^rass.  Jn>t  hehind  us,  which  it  was  l»y  no  means  advisahh; 
to  eiil>'r,  since  it  shelterccl  a  numerous  hrood  ^\\'  raltle- 
.snakes.  Menrv  <  "hatillon  auain  di'sjiatclied  "  The  Hoi'se'' 
to  tiie  \illa,U('.  witii  u  messa^^e  to  his  s(|iiaw  that  slit;  and 
her  relatives  should  leave  the  rest  and  iiu.>h  on  as  rapidly 
as  jiossilile  to  onr  camp. 

Our  daily  routine  soon  hecanie  as  reu'ulai'  as  that,  <)!'  a 
well-ordered  household.  Tht^  weather-heaten  old  treo 
was  in  the  centre;  oiu"  rilies  ueuerallv  rested  auainst  its 


vast   trunk, 


and 


our   saddles   were 


liinu'  on 


In;  u'l'o 


mid 


around  it  ;  its  distoiicil  roots  wore  so  twisted  as  to  form 
one  or  two  convenient  arm-chairs,  wlieie  we  C(juld  sit  in 
the  shade  and  reail  or  smoke;  hut  meal-times  hecame,  on 
the  whole,  the  most  intei'cst iuii'  hours  of  the  da),  and  a 
houniiriil  provision  was  made  lor  them.     An  antelope  oi- a 


leer  iisiia 


iiy 


swuim"  IVom  a  honiih,  aia 


ham 


iciies  were  sus- 


))ende(l  apiiiist  the  trunk.  That  cam]>  is  datzueireotyped 
on  my  menioi-y  :  the  old  tree,  the  white  lent,  with  Shaw 
sleeping'  in  the  shadow  of  it,  and  lleynars  misei'ahle  lod^'o 
close  hy  tlu"  hank  of  the  stream,  it  was  a  wi'et(died  oven- 
shaped  strnclure,  made  of  iK'urimed  and  tattered  hul'liilo- 
liides  stretched  ovei'  a  frame  of  poles  ;  one  side  was  oiicn. 


'P 


and  at  the  side  of  the  openiu,u-  liun^'  the  p(jwder-horn  and 
hullet-])ou(di  of  the  owner,  to.uether  with  his  loii^'  red  jiijie, 
and  a  rich   (pii\ei'  of  otter-skin,  with  a  how  and  ai'i'ows  ; 


or  ]\evna 


an 


India 


11  ill  nil 


)st  thinu's  hut  color,  chose  to 


hunt  hnffalo  with  these  primitive  weapons.      Jn  the  dark- 
ness of  this    cavern-like    habitation  mit'ht   he   discerned 


i:.|  ;i 


Iji 


I'll 


i 


I         i! 


120 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


]Ma(liuiu;  Miirt^ot,  her  ovcrprowii  bulk  stowed  away  among 
her  doniesi  ic  iuii)leiiieMts,  I'urs,  ru))es,  blankets,  and  ))ainied 
cases  ofi-aw  liide,  in  whicli  diied  meat  is  kept.  Here  slic 
sat  from  sunrise  to  sunset,  an  impersonation  of  gluttony 
and  laziness,  while  her  affeetionate  j)roj)rietor  was  smok- 
inji;,  or  begi:inu"  petty  gilts  from  us,  or  telling  lies  eoncein- 
ing  his  own  achievements,  or  pereluinec  engaged  in  the 
more  profitable  oecu[)ation  ol"  cooking  some  preparation 
oi"  prairie  delicacies.  Reynal  was  an  adept  at  this  work  ; 
he  and  Deslanriers  have  joined  forces,  and  are  hard  at 
work  together  over  the  fire,  while  Raymond  spreads,  l)y 
way  of  table-cloth,  a  bufliilo-hide  carefully  whit(Mied  with 
pipe-clay,  on  the  grass  before  the  tent.  Here  he  arranges 
the  teacups  and  plates;  and  then,  creeping  on  all  fours, 
like  a  dog,  thrusts  his  head  in  at  the  opening  of  the  tent. 
For  a  moment  we  see  his  round  owlish  eyes  I'olling  wildly, 
as  if  the  iik'a  he  came  to  comnnniicate  had  suddenly  es- 
caped him;  then  collecting  his  scattered  thoughts,  as  if 
by  an  elfoi't,  he  informs  us  that  su[)i)er  is  ready,  and  in- 
stantly withdraws. 

When  sunset  came,  and  at  that  hour  the  wild  and  des- 
olate scene  would  assume  a  new  as]H'ct,  the  horses  were 
driven  in.  'i'liey  had  been  grazing  all  day  in  the  neighbor- 
ing meadow,  but  now  they  were  picketed  close  about  the 
camp.  As  the  jirairie  tlarkened  we  sat  and  conversed 
around  the  fire,  until,  becoming  drowsy,  we  s))read  our 
saddles  on  the  ground,  wrapjicd  our  blankets  around  us, 
and  lay  down.  AVe  lU'ver  placed  a  guard,  having  by  this 
time  biHMune  too  indolent  ;  but  Henry  Chat illon  folded  his 
loaded  riile  in  the  same  blanket  with  himself,  observing 
ihat  he  always  took  it  to  bed  with  him  when  he  'canij)ed 
in  that  ])lace.  Henry  was  too  ])old  a  man  to  use  such  a 
pii'caution  without  good  cause.  We  had  a  hint  now  and 
then  that  our  situation  was   none  of  the  safest;  several 


u 


clcs- 
werc 
hbor- 
it  the 
lu'slmI 
I  our 

I  us, 
y  this 
ed  his 


luipod 
uch  a 
\v  and 
cvcral 


TME    WAR    r.VRTIES. 


1-21 


Crow  Avar-partics  were  known  to  be  in  the  vicinity,  and 
one  oi'  thcni.  that  passed  liei'C  some  time  bctbre,  liad 
peeled  the  bark  from  a  neighboring  tree,  and  en.ii'ravcd 
upon  tlie  white  wood  certain  liierotilypliics,  to  siu'nify  that 
tliey  had  invaded  the  territories  of  their  enemies,  the 
Daiicotah,  and  set  them  at  defiance.  One  mornini;'  a  tluck 
mist  covered  the  whole  country.  Shaw  and  Henry  went 
out  to  ride,  and  soon  came  back  with  a  startling'  piece  of 
intelligence;  they  had  found  within  riOe-sliot  of  our  camp 
the  recent  trail  of  about  thirty  horsemen.  Th(\v  could 
not  be  whites,  and  tliey  could  not  be  Dalicotali,  since  we 
knew  no  sucli  parties  to  ])e  in  tlic  neighborhood  ;  there- 
fore thev  must  be  (-rows.  Tliaidvs  to  tliat  friendly  mist, 
we  bad  escaped  a  hard  battle  ;  they  would  iuevitaldy  have 
attacked  us  and  our  Indian  companions  had  they  seen  our 
camp.  Whatever  doubts  we  might  have  entertained,  were 
removed  a  day  or  two  al'ter,  by  two  or  three  Dahcotali, 
who  came  to  us  with  an  account  of  liaving  hidden  in  a 
ravine  on  that  very  morning,  from  whence  they  saw  and 
counted  the  Cn  ws  ;  they  said  that  they  followed  them, 
carel'idly  keeping  out  of  sight,  as  they  passed  up  Ciuig- 
water;  that  here  the  Crows  discovered  live  dead  bodies 
of  Dahcotah,  ])laced  according  to  custom  in  trees,  and 
flinging  them  to  the  ground,  held  their  guns  against  them 
and  blew  them  to  atoms. 

If  our  camp  vere  not  altogether  safe,  still  it  was  com- 
fortable enough  ;  at  least  it  was  so  to  Shaw,  for  1  was 
tormented  with  illness  and  vexed  by  the  delay  in  the  ac- 
complishment of  my  designs,  "When  a  respite  in  my  dis- 
order gave  me  some  returning  strength,  1  rodi;  out  w(dl 
armed  ujton  the  ))rairie.  or  l)athed  with  Shaw  in  the  stream, 
or  waged  a  })etty  warfare  with  the  iuhaliitants  of  a  ncigh- 
boriuii"  )ii':urie-dog  village.  Around  our  fire  at  niuht  we 
em})loyed  ourselves  in  inveighing  a^'ainst  the  fickleness 


.it 


jli 


'n 


a  il 


'm 


'if 


■'I       '■'• 


|M 


1 1 


i;    ' 

• 

1 , 

!!  lii 

1 

122 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


and  inconstancy  of  Indians,  and  cxocratinuj  The  Wliiil- 
wind  and  all  his  crew.  At  last  the  thing  grew  insulTer- 
al)le. 

''To-morrow  morning,''  said  I,  "  I  will  start  for  tho 
fort,  and  see  if  \  can  hear  any  news  there."  Late  that 
ev('i'':.g,  when  the  (ire  had  sunk  low,  and  all  the  camp 
wei'e  asleep,  a  loud  cry  sounded  IVom  the  darkness. 
Henry  leaped  np,  recognized  the  voice,  rej)lied  to  it,  and 
our  dandy  I'ricnd,  "  'J'he  Horse,"  roile  in  among  us,  just 
returned  from  his  mission  to  the  village.  ife  coolly 
})icketed  his  mare,  without  saying  a  woi-d,  sat  down  hy 
the  fire  and  hegan  to  eat,  but  his  imperturhahle  }»hiloso})hy 
was  too  much  for  our  patience.  AV'here  was  the  village  ? 
—  about  fifty  miles  south  of  us  ;  it  was  moving  slowly,  and 
would  not  arrive  in  less  than  a  week.  And  where  was 
Henry's  s(piaw  ?  —  coming  as  fast  as  she  could  with  Mahto- 
Tatonka,  and  the  rest  of  her  brothers,  but  she  would 
never  reach  us,  for  she  was  dying,  and  asking  every  mo- 
ment for  Henry.  Heni'y's  manly  face  became  clouded 
and  downcast;  he  said  that  if  we  were  willing  he  would 
go  in  the  morning  to  find  her,  at  which  Shaw  (jflijrcd  to 
accom})any  him. 

We  sachlled  onr  horses  t^t  sunrise.  Ileynal  protested 
vehemently  against  Ijcing  left  alone,  with  nobody  but  tho 
two  Canadians  and  the  young  Indians,  when  enemies  were 
in  the  neighiiorhood.  Disregarding  his  coni'plainis,  wo 
left  him,  and,  coming  to  the  mouth  of  Chugwater,  sej»a- 
:  -led,  Shaw  and  Henry  tni-ning  to  the  right,  up  the  bank 
of  the  stream,  while  1  made  for  the  fort. 

'J'akiug  leave  for  a  while  of  my  friend  and  the  unfortu- 
nate s(i!'.aw,  1  will  relate  by  way  of  episode  what  I  saw  and 
did  at  Foit  I^iaramie.  It  was  not  more  than  cigliteen  miles 
distaid,  and  1  reached  it  in  thi'ee  hours.  A  shrivelled 
little  ligui'e,  wrapi)ed  from  head  to  fo(jt  in  a  dingy  white 


THE    WAR    PARTIES. 


123 


Canadian  capote,  stood  in  the  gateway,  liulding  by  a  cord 
of  huU-hitlc  a  shaggy  wild-horse,  which  he  luid  hildy 
cai  ;:ht.  llis  shai'p  prominent  leaturcs.  and  his  keen 
snais.e-like  eyes,  hxjked  ont  IVuni  licnciilh  the  sliadowy 
hood  of  the  eap(.)te,  which  was  drawn  ovei'  liis  head  like 
the  cowl  ol'  a  ('apnchin  I'riar.  IJis  face  was  like  an  old 
piece  of  leather,  and  his  month  sjiread  fr(.ni  car  (o  car. 
Extending  his  long  wiry  hand,  he  welcome  I  me  with 
Something  more  coi'dial  than  the  ordinary  ci  Id  salnte  of 
ail  Indian,  i'or  we  were  excellent;  friends,  ^Vv  had  made 
an  exchange  of  hoi'ses  to  onr  mntnal  advantage;  and 
Paul,  thinking  himself  well  treated,  had  declared  eveiT- 
where  that  the  white  man  had  a  good  heart.  IJe  was  a 
Dahcotah  from  the  Missonri,  a  reputed  son  of  the  half- 
breed  interpreter,  Piei're  l)ori(jn,  so  (ji'teii  mentioned  in 
li'ving's  "Astoria."  lie  said  that  he  was  going  to  Rich- 
ard's ti'adiim-honsc  to  sell  his  horse  to  some  emigi'ants, 
who  were  encamped  there,  and  asked  me  to  go  with  him. 
We  furde(l  the   stream   tou'ether,  Paul  drauging   his  wild 


charu'e 


l)ehind  him. 


s  we  [)assed  over  the  sandy  jjlams 


hevond.  he  urew  comnnnucative. 


Paul 


was  a  cosmoj 


ol- 


itan  in  his  wav  ;  he  had   been  to   the  settlements  of  the 


J  ' 


whites,  and  \isitcd  in  jieace  and  war  most  of  the  tribes 
within  the  range  of  a  thousand  nules.  Jle  spoke  a  jargon 
of  Pi'cnch  and  another  of  Knglish,  yet  ncNcrtheless  he 
was  ;i  tliorough  Indian  ;  and  as  lie  told  of  the  bloody 
deeds  of  his  own  people  against  their  enemies,  iiis  little 
eyes  would  glitter  with  a  fierce  lustre.  Ih,'  told  how  the 
Dahcotah  exterminated  a  village  of  the  llohays  on  the 
Upper  Missouri,  slaughtering  men.  women,  and  children; 
and  how,  in  overwhelming  force,  they  cut  oil"  sixteen  of 
the  hrave  Pelawares,  who  fonuht  like  wolves  to  the  lasL 


amid  tlie  tlironu"  of  their  eneniie 


11 


e  told  me  also  an- 


other storv,  which  1  did  not  believe  until  1  had  hear<l  it 


In 


I.;     ? 


m 


I 


■m 


-  ■  r  . 

!  ■ 

■.  i 

i 

^, 

■t; 

;■! 

( 

^' 

1 

tH 


12^ 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


fit 


confirmed    from  so  many  independent  sources  that  my 
skepticism  was  almost  overcome. 

Six  years  ago,  a  fellow  named  Jim  Beckworth,  a  mon- 
grel of  French,  American,  and  negro  blood,  was  trading 
for  the  Fur  Company,  in  a  large  village  of  the  Crows.  Jim 
Bcckworth  was  last  summer  at  St.  Louis.  Ife  is  a  I'ufiiari 
of  the  worst  stamp;  bloody  and  treacherous,  without 
honor  or  honesty  ;  such  at  least  is  the  character  he  bears 
U))on  the  ])rairic.  Yet  in  his  case  the  standard  rules  of 
character  fail,  for  though  he  will  stab  a  man  in  his  sleep, 
he  will  also  perform  most  desperate  acts  of  daring ; 
such,  for  instance,  as  the  following:  While  he  was  in 
the  Crow  village,  a  Llackfoot  war-party,  between  thirty 
and  fortv  in  number,  came  stealing  throuuh  the  conn- 
trv,  killing  stragirlers  and  carrving  off  horses.  The 
Crow  warriors  got  upon  their  trail  and  i)ressed  them  so 
closely  that  they  could  not  esca})c,  at  which  the  Black- 
feet,  throwing  uj)  a  semi-circular  breastwork  of  logs  at 
the  foot  of  a  precipice,  coolly  awaited  their  aj^proach. 
The  logs  and  sticks,  piled  four  or  five  feet  high,  protected 
them  in  front.  The  Crows  might  have  swejjt  over  the 
breastwork  and  exterminated  their  enemies  ;  but  though 
outnumbering  them  tenfold,  they  did  not  dream  of  storm- 
ing the  little  fortification.  Such  a  proceeding  would  be 
altogether  repugnant  to  their  notions  of  warfare.  Whoop- 
ing and  yelling,  and  jumj)ing  from  side  to  side  like  devils 
incarnate,  they  showered  bullets  and  arrows  upon  the 
logs ;  not  a  JJlackfoot  was  hurt,  but  several  Crows,  in 
S])ite  of  their  leaping  and  dodging,  were  shot  down.  In 
this  childisli  manner,  the  fight  went  on  for  an  hour  or 
two.  Now  and  then  a  Crow  warrior  in  an  ecstasy  of 
valor  and  vainulorv  would  scream  ibrth  his  war-song, 
boast  himself  the  bravest  and  greatest  of  mankind, 
grasp  his  hatchet,  rush  up,  strike  it  upon  the  brcistwork, 


THE    WAR    PARTIES. 


125 


and  tlien  as  he  retreated  to  liis  companions,  fall  dead 
under  a  slu)\v(n"  of  arrows ;  yet  no  eonihincd  attack  was 
made.  T\w.  Hlackfect  reniaiiuMl  secure  in  tlieii'  intrench- 
ment.     At  hist  Jim  lieckwortli   lost  patience. 

"You  are  all  fools  and  old  women,"  he  said  to  the 
Crows  ;  '•  come  with  me,  if  any  of  you  are  brave  enough, 
and  1  will  show  you  how  to  fight." 

He  threw  off  his  trapper's  frock  of  l)uckskin  and 
stripped  himself  naked,  like  the  Indians  themselves,  lie 
left  his  rifle  on.  the  ground,  took  in  his  hand  a  small  light 
hatchet,  and  ran  over  the  prairie  to  the  right,  concealed 
by  a  hollow  from  the  eyes  of  the  Blackfeet.  Then  clinil)- 
ing  u})  the  rocks,  he  gained  the  toj)  of  the  ])recij)ice  behind 
them.  Forty  or  i'\['\y  young  Crow  warriors  followed  him. 
V>y  tlie  cries  and  whoops  that  rose  from  below  he  knew 
that  the  Blackfeet  were  just  beneath  him  ;  and  rumiing 
forward  he  leajjcd  down  the  rock  into  the  midst  of  them. 
As  he  fell  he  caught  one  by  the  long  loose  hair,  and 
dragging  him  down  tomahawked  him ;  then  grasping 
another  by  the  !)elt  at  his  waist,  he  struck  him  also  a 
stunning  bloH%  nnd,  gaining  his  feet,  shouted  the  Crow 
war-cry.  lie  swung  his  hatchet  so  fiercely  around  him, 
that  the  astonished  Blackfeet  bore  back  and  gave  him 
room.  lie  might,  had  he  chosen,  have  lea})ed  over  the 
breastwork  and  esca{)ed  ;  l)ut  this  was  not  necessary,  for 
with  devilish  yells  the  Crow  warriors  came  dro]tj»ing  in 
quick  succession  over  the  rock  among  their  enemies.  The 
main  body  of  the  Crows,  too,  answc'cd  the  cry  from  the 
front,  and  rushed  up  simultaneously.  The  convulsive 
stmggle  within  the  l)reastw(n'k  was  frightful ;  for  an  in- 
stant the  Blackfeet  fought  and  yelled  like  })ent-uj)  ligers; 
but  the  butchery  was  soon.  comi)lete,  and  the  mangled 
bodies  lay  j)iled  together  under  the  precipice.  Not  a 
Blacklbot  made  his  escape. 


■llil 


■ 'iiiii: 


f'W 


!'\i 


•■h: 


m 

V.'' 

--r-r-tr- 

12() 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


!  i 


!.( 


As  Paul  niiislicd  liis  story  wo  en  mo  in  siulit  of  Ricli- 
ard's  Foi't,  a  disorderly  crowd  of  lucii  around  it,  and  an 
cniijiran.t  canij)  u  littlo  in  i'ront. 

"  Now,  Paul,"  said  I,  "  wlioro  are  your  ^linnicongcw 
lod«^vs  'i " 

'"Not  conio  vot,"  said  Paul:  "mavl'O  come  to-morrow." 

I'wo  larjio  vilhiLTOs  of  a  liand  of  Dahcotah  liad  come 
three  hundred  miles  from  the  Missouri,  to  join  in  the  war, 
and  they  were  expected  to  reach  Richard's  that  morninu". 
There  was  as  yet  no  siirn  of  their  approach;  so  i)ushin<5 
throu<^'li  a  noisy,  drunken  crowd,  1  entered  an  apai'tment 
of  loii's  and  mud,  the  largest  in  the  fort:  it  was  lull  of 
men  of  various  races  and  complexions,  all  more  or  less 
drunk.  A  company  of  California  emigrants,  it  seemed, 
had  made  the  discovery  at  this  late  day  that  they  had 
encumltered  themselves  with  too  many  supplies  for  their 
journey.  A  ]»art,  therefore,  they  had  thrown  away,  or  sold 
at  great  loss  to  the  traders  ;  l)ut  had  determined  to  get  rid 
of  their  very  copious  stock  of  Missoui'i  whiskey,  hy  driidv- 
ing  it  on  the  spot.  Here  -were  maudlin  s(piaws  stretched 
on  piles  of  l)uffalo-rol)es :  squalid  ]\rexicans,  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows;  Indians  sedately  diunk;  long-haired 
Canadians  and  trappers,  and  American  backwoodsmen  in 
brown  homes]mn,  the  well-beloved  ])istol  and  bowie-knife 
disj)layed  openly  at  their  sides.  In  the  middle  of  the 
room  a  tall,  lank  man.  with  a  dingy  l)roa(lcloth  coat,  was 
liaranguing  the  company  in  the  style  of  the  stump  orator. 
With  one  hand  he  sawed  the  air,  and  ^vith  the  other 
clutched  lirmly  a  brow^n  jug  of  whiskey,  which  he  applied 
every  moment  to  his  lips,  forgetting  that  he  had  drained 
the  contents  long  ago.  Richard  formally  introduced  me 
to  this  i)ersonage,  who  was  no  less  a  man  than  Colonel 
R —  -,  once  the  leader  of  the  party.  Instantly  the  Colo- 
nel seizing  me,  in  the  absence  of  buttons,  by  the  leather 


TIIF.    WAR    TAh'TIKS. 


V21 


friiiL'Ts  of  niv  frock,  hotrnii  to  (Icfinc  liis  jiosition.  His 
nicii.  lie  said,  liiul  niuliiiicd  and  deposed  him  ;  l»iit  still 
lie  exercised  o\-er  tluMU  the  inlhieiieo  of  a  superior  mind  ; 
in  all  lint  tlie  name  he  was  yet  their  chief.  As  the  Colo- 
nel spoke,  1  looked  round  un  (he  wild  assemhla<ic,  and 
could  not  help  thiid<ing  that  ho  was  Itut  ill  litted  to  con- 
duct such  men  across  the  deserts  to  California.  Con- 
si)icuous  among  the  rest  stood  three  tall  youni:;  nicn, 
tirandsons  of  Daniel  Hoone.  Thcv  had  clearlv  inheritetl 
the  adventurous  character  of  that  prince  of  ])ionecrs;  hut 
1  saw  no  signs  of  the  (jui'jt  and  tranquil  si)irlt  that  so 
remarkahly  distinguished  him. 

Fearful  was  the  '"ate  that,  months  after,  overtook  some 
of  the  niemhers  of  that  party.  General  Kearney,  on  his 
late  return  from  Califoriua,  Itrought  hack  their  story. 
They  were  interrupted  hy  the  deep  snows  among  the 
mountains,  and,  maddened  hy  cold  and  hunger,  fed  upon 
each  other's  flesh  ! 

1  got  tired  of  the  confusion.  "  Come,  Paul,"  said  I, 
"  we  will  he  off."  Paul  sat  in  the  sun,  under  the  wall 
of  the  fort.  He  jumped  up,  mounted,  and  we  rode 
towards  Fort  Laramie.  When  we  reached  it.  a  man 
came  out  of  the  gate  with  a  pack  at  his  hack  :\\u\  a  rifle 
on  his  shoulder;  others  were  gathering  ahout  him,  shak- 
inii'  liim  hv  the  liand,  as  if  takinir  leave.  1  thouuht  it  a 
strange  thing  that  a  man  should  set  out  alone  and  on 
foot  for  the  prairie.  1  soon  got  an  explanation.  IVr- 
rault — this,  if  1  recollect  riuht,  was  the  Canailian's 
name  —  had  ([uarrellcd  with  the  houri/coly,  nud  the  fort 
was  too  hot  to  hold  him.  Bordeaux,  inflated  with  his 
transient  authority,  had  aljused  him.  and  received  a  hlow 
in  return.  The  men  then  sprang  at  each  other,  and 
grappled  in  the  middle  of  the  fort.  Bordeaux  was  down 
in  an  instant,  at  the  mercy  of  the  incensed  Canadian  ; 


ii 


i 

I- 


L 


Il 


128 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


had  not  an  old  Indian,  tlio  l>rotlior  of  his  scjuaw,  seized 
liohl  of  liis  iinla^onist,  it  woukl  have  Tared  ill  with  him. 
Perrault  hroke  loose  IVom  the  old  Indian,  an<l  both  the 
white  men  ran  to  their  rooms  for  their  <iinis  ;  hut  when 
Bordeaux,  looking  from  his  door,  saw  the  Canadian,  gun 
in  hand,  standing'  in  the  area  and  caHinjj;  on  him  to  como 
out  and  n,ght,  his  heart  faih  '  him  ;  he  chose  to  remain 
where  he  was.  In  vain  the  old  Indian,  seandali/ed  hy 
his  brother-in-law's  cowardice,  called  upon  him  to  <^o  to 
the  jirairie  and  fifiht  it  out  in  the  white  man's  manner; 
and  JJordeanx's  own  sqnaw,  ef|ually  incensed,  .screamed 
to  her  lord  and  master  that  he  was  a  doi^  and  an  old 
woman.  It  all  availed  nothin<j;.  Hordeaux's  j)rudenco 
got  the  better  of  his  valor,  and  he  would  not  stir.  Per- 
rault stood  showering  o])probrious  epithets  at  the  recreant 
b'nn-(fc'uis,i\\\,  growing  tired  of  this,  he  made  np  a  j)ack  of 
dried  meat,  and,  slinging  it  at  his  liack,  set  out  alone  for 
Fort  Pierre,  on  the  Missouri,  a  distance  of  three  hundred 
miles,  over  a  desert  country,  full  of  hostile  Indians. 

1  remained  in  the  fort  that  night.  ]n  the  morning,  as 
I  was  coming  out  from  breakfast,  talking  with  a  trader 
named  ^fcCluskey,  I  saw  a  strange  Indian  leaning  against 
the  side  of  the  gate.  He  was  a  tall,  strong  man,  with 
heavy  features. 

"Who  is  he?"  I  asked. 

"  That's  The  Whirlwind,"  said  McClnskey.  "  He  is 
the  fellow  that  made  all  this  stir  al)ont  the  war.  It's 
always  the  way  with  the  Sioux  ;  they  never  stop  cutting 
each  other's  throats  ;  it's  all  they  are  fit  for;  instead  of 
sitting  in  their  lodges,  and  getting  roOcs  to  trade  with  ns 
in  the  winter.  If  this  war  goes  on,  we'll  make  a  poor 
trade  of  it  next  season,  I  reckon." 

And  this  was  the  oi)inion  of  all  the  traders,  wlio  were 
vehemently  opposed  to  the  Avar,  from  the  injury  that  it 


TIIK     WAU     I'AUTIKS. 


V29 


must  occusiou  l(»  ilicir  iiitciH  sis.  The  Whirlwind  left  liis 
villauo  IIk'  tiny  liclurc  to  iiijiUo  u  visit  lo  tlir  I'ort.  His 
wiirlikc  iinloi"  lunl  aWiitcd  not  ii  little  since  lie  lii'st  con- 
ceived the  desiuii  ol'  Mveniiing  his  son's  death.  'I'he  lont^ 
and  complicated  preparations  lor  the  expedition  were  too 
nnich  lor  his  Tudvle  disposition.  That  niorninii;  Hordeanx 
fiisteiied  upon  iiini,  made  him  pi'esents,  and  told  him  that 
if  he  went  to  war  lie  would  destroy  his  horses  ami  kill  no 
hul'lido  to  trade  with  the  white  men  ;  in  short,  that  he  was 
a  tool  to  thiidv  of  such  a  thinii'.  and  had  hetter  make  up 
his  mind  to  sit  ([uietly  in  his  lodu'e  and  smoke  his  pijx^, 
like  a  wise  man.  'J'hc  Whirlwind's  ])Ui'i)()se  was  evidently 
shaken  ;  he  had  hecome  tired,  like  a  child,  of  his  lavorito 
jilaii.  Hordeaux  exult in^ly  preelicted  that  lie  would  not 
go  to  war.  My  philanthropy  was  no  match  I'or  my  curi- 
osity, and  i  wa  ■;  vexed  at  the  possibility  tliat  al'ter  all  I 
niiuht  lose  the  rare  op[)ortunity  of  scein,i>;  the  cerenu)nios 
of  war.  The  Whirlwind,  however,  liad  merely  thrown 
the  lirehrand  ;  the  conllagration  was  hecome  general.  All 
the  western  hands  of  the  Dahcotah  Avere  hent  on  war ; 
and,  as  I  heard  IVom  Mct.'luskey,  six  large  villages  were  al- 
ready gathered  on  a  little  .stream,  Ibrty  miles  distant,  and 
were  daily  calling  to  the  Great  Spirit  to  aid  them  in  their 
enterprise.  McCluskey  had  just  left  them,  and  repre- 
sented them  as  on  their  way  to  La  Bonte's  camp,  which 
they  would  leacli  in  a  week,  inih'ss  fJic//  shou/d  learn  that 
l/irrc  /('i-rc  no  bv.ffalu  then'.  1  did  not  like  this  condition, 
for  i)uflalo  this  season  Avere  rare  in  the  neighborhood. 
There  were  also  the  two  Minnicongt'w  villages  that  1  men- 
tioned before;  hut  about  noon,  an  Indian  came  from 
Richard's  Fort  with  the  news  that  they  were  (juarrelling, 
l)reaking  uj),  and  dispersing.  So  much  for  the  whiskey  of 
the  emigrants  !     Finding  themselves  unable  to  drink   the 

whole,  they  had  sold  the  residue  to  these  Indians,  and  it 

9 


1 
■\\ 

\\\ 

m 


m 


1  U  !•    1 


il 


i!^ 


V\  ■ 


¥M 


I 


i  \ 


130 


Tin:    ORKGOiN    TRAIL. 


hi 


I  li 


nocdcil  no  proplict  lo  foretell  flie  result  ;  u  spark  di'oppcd 
into  a  po\V(!('i'-Miii,u;aziiu>  would  not  iuive  produccid  ii  (piieker 
etl'eet.  Instautly  the  old  jealousies  and  I'ivalrirs  and 
Kuiotliered  f'cud^  that  exist  in  an  Indian  villau'e  lu'oke  out. 
into  Curious  (piarr(  Is.  'IMiey  lorti'ol  the  warlike  entfi'|)rise 
that  had  already  brought  thi'Ui  three  hundred  miles.  They 
seemed  like  uuuoverued  chil<h'en  inllamecl  with  the  liei'cest 
passions  of  men.  Several  of  them  were  stahhed  in  the 
drunken  tunndt;  and  in  tin;  nu)i'nin,ti'  they  seatteicd  and 
moved  hack  towards  the  Missouri  in  small  ))arties.  I 
feared  that,  after  all,  the  loUL'^-projected  meetinu;'  and  the 
ceremonies  that  were  to  atteiul  it  miuht  never  take  plaec, 
and  1  should  hjse  so  admiralde  an  opportunity  of  seeiuj^ 
the  Indian  imder  his  most  fearful  and  eharactei'i.Mic  as- 
pect; liowevcr,  in  forej^'oinu;  this,!  sho)d<l  avoid  a  very 
fair  ])rol)altility  of  heinu'  plunderetl  and  stripped,  and  it 
might  be,  stabbed  or  shot  into  the  bargain.  Consoling 
myself  with  this  reflect  ion,  1  prepared  to  carry  the  news, 
such  as  it  was,  to  the  canij). 

I  caught  my  horse,  and  to  my  vexation  found  that  he 
had  lost  a  shoe  and  broken  his  hoof  against  the  rocks. 
Horses  are  shod  at  Fort  Laramie  at  the  moderate  rate 
of  three  dollars  a  foot;  so  I  tied  Ilendrick  to  a  beam  in 
the  corral,  and  summoned  Roubidou,  the  blacksmith. 
Roubidon,  with  the  hoof  between  his  knees,  was  at  work 
with  hammer  and  lilo,  and  1  was  inspecting  the  process, 
when  a  strange  voice  addressed  mo. 

"Two  more  gone  under  I  Well,  there's  more  of  us 
left  yet.  Here's  (lingras  and  me  off  to  the  mountains 
to-morrow.  Our  turn  will  come  next,  I  sn)^))0sc.  It's  a 
hard  life,  anyhow  I  " 

I  looked  up  and  saw  a  man,  not  much  more  tlian  five 
feet  high,  but  of  very  square  and  strong  proportions.  In 
appearance  he  was  particularly  dingy  ;  for  his  old  buck- 


.  I  Ml  IP 


iiifkcr 

s     llMtl 

ki'  out^ 
iTpriso 
.   They 

I'llTCt'St 

in   tlu; 
I'll  imd 

iiid  the 
(•  place, 
r  seoinjj; 
i.^iic  as- 
a    very 
1,  and  it 
onsolini!; 
\o  news, 

that  he 
u'  I'ockri. 
•iitc;  rate 
ln'ani  in 

ksniith. 

at  work 

process, 

Ire   of  us 
lountains 
It's  a 

Ihan  five 
Ions.  \n 
lid  buck- 


Tirr  WAR  rAiiTirs. 


i:]l 


skin  frock  was  black  and  i)ohslicd  with  lime  and  jrroaso. 
and  his  licll,  knife,  |)ouch,  and  itowdcr-liorn  jippcarcd  td 
have  seen  the  ronjihcst  sei'vicc.  The  lii-sl  joint  of  each 
foot  was  entirely  u'one,  havin<r  he -n  fro/en  oil"  sescral 
wintei's  liefore,  and  his  moccasins  were  cni'lailed  in  pro- 
j)orti(»n.  Ifis  whole  appearance  ami  ei|nipnient  hespoke 
the  "  free  trapper."  lie  had  a  ronnd  rnddy  face,  ;ini- 
inate(l  with  a  spirit  of  carelessness  and  u'ayely  not  at  all 
in  accoi-dance  with  the  words  h(>  had  jnst  spoken. 

'•'Two  more  gone,'"  said  1;  "  what  do  yon  mean  hy 
tliat?" 

"Oh,  the  Arapahocs  have  jnst  killed  two  of  ns  in  the 
mountains.  Old  Ihdl-Tail  has  come  to  tell  us.  They 
stahlied  one  behind  his  back,  and  shot  the  other  with  his 
own  rifle.  That's  the  way  ^vo  live  here!  1  mean  to  <2,ive 
up  ti'appinui:  after  this  year.  My  squaw  says  she  wants  ji 
pai.'ing  horse  and  some  red  ribbons:  I'll  make  enouuh 
heaver  to  get  them  for  her,  and  then  I'm  done  I  Til  go 
below  and  live  on  a  farm." 

"  Y(mr  bones  will  dry  on  the  prairie,  T?oulean  I  "  said 
another  trapper,  who  was  standing  by  ;  a  strong,  brutal- 
looking  fellow,  with  a  face  as  surly  as  a  bull-dog's. 

iloidean  only  laughed,  and  began  to  hum  a  tune  and 
shuffle  a  dance  on  his  stumps  of  feet. 

"  You'll  sec  us,  before  long,  passing  up  your  way,"  said 
the  other  man. 

'•Well,"  said  I,  "stop  and  take  a  cup  of  coIIIm'  with 
us;"  and,  as  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon,  I  pre[)ared  to 
leave  the  fort  at  once. 

As  I  rode  out,  a  train  of  emigi-ant  wagons  was  ))assing 
across  the  stream.  "  Whar  arc  ye  g'oin',  stranger?" 
Thus  I  was  saluted  by  two  or  three  voices  at  once. 

"  About  eighteen  miles  up  the  creek." 

"  It's  mighty  late  to  be  going  that  far  !  Make  haste, 
ye'd  better,  and  keep  a  bright  look-out  for  Indians !  " 


m 


m 


I  1 
■  I  ; 

'       1 ; 


132 


Tin;    OUlKiON      I  KAIL 


I  III 


III  : 


I    I 


I  tlioii'ilit  llic  udvifc  t(M»  iruod  to  lio  iic^dccfrd.  Ki)i"(lini; 
tlic  sirciiiii,  1  luissrd  :il  ii  niiind  hot  over  lli<'  |iliiiis  licyoiid. 
lliit  ••  till'  iiinic  linsic,  tlu'  worse  speed."  I  provctl  tin; 
truth  (»r  tlir  |iro\eil»  l»y  the  time  1  i-esielied  the  hills  thico 
miles  IVom  the  fort.  The  trail  was  faintly  marked,  and, 
ridinu"  I'oruard  with  more  ra|>idity  tlian  caution,  1  lost 
si^lil  of  it.  I  l;('|(t  on  in  a  direet  line,  jiiiided  Ity  Ijaramio 
(Jreek,  which  1  could  see  at  intei-vals  dai'kly  j^listeninu'  in 
the  e\eniM;i'  snii,  at  the;  lt(jttom  of  the  woody  <iull'  on  my 
riuht.  Hall' an  hour  hefore  sunset  I  cauK!  u|»on  itshanks. 
There  was  «<omethin,u;  exeitinjjj  in  the  wild  solitude  of  the 
place.  .\n  antelop(!  spranjj;  suddenly  from  the;  siiuc- 
huslies  hel'oi'e  m<'.  As  lu;  leaped  ^n-acelully  not  thii'ty 
yards  iiefitre  my  horse,  I  fired,  and  instantly  h<!  spun 
round  and  fell.  Quite  sure;  of  him,  1  walked  my  ho''so 
towards  him.  leisurely  reloadin*;"  my  rille,  when,  to  my 
sin-prise  he  spranj;'  np  and  ti'otted  i-apidly  away  on  three 
le^s.  into  the  dark  lecesses  of  the  hills,  whithei"  1  had  no 
time  to  follow.  Ton  minutes  after,  1  was  jiassint;'  aloni^' 
the  hottom  of  a  deep  valley,  and,  ehaneinji,"  to  look  hehind 
me,  1  saw  in  the  dim  \'\\i}\\  that  somethinji,'  was  followinj^. 
Supposinu'  it  to  he  a  wolf,  1  slid  from  my  seat  and  sat 
down  liehind  my  horse  to  shoot  it  ;  hut  as  it  came  up,  1  saw 
))y  its  motions  that  it  was  anothei- antelope.  It  a|)j)roached 
within  a  hundi'ed  yards,  arched  its  neck. and  uazed  intently. 
I  levelled  at  the  white  Spot  on  its  chest,  and  was  ahout  to 
lire,  when  it  started  off,  ran  first  to  one  side  and  then  to  the 
other,  like  a  vessel  tacking  auainst  the  wind,  and  at  last 
stretched  away  at  full  sjiced.  Then  it  stopped  again,  looked 
curiously  liehind  it,  and  trotted  up  as  Ixdore  ;  hut  not  so 
holdly,  for  it  soon  |)aused  and  stood  ga/ing  at  me.  1 
ftred  ;  it  leaped  upwai'd  and  fell  upon  its  tracks.  Measur- 
ing the  distance.  I  found  it  two  hundred  and  four  j)aces. 
When  1  stood  hy  his  side,  the  antelope  turned  his  ex[)iring 


III 


CI 


m^i 


Tin;  WAR  I'Aurir.s. 


ll]3 


cyo  upward.  It  was  liko  a  liciiutifiil  woiiinu's,  daik  ;iii(I 
briiiiit.  "  Fdiliiiialc  lliat  I  am  in  a  imriT,"  lliotmlit  I  ;  "  I 
uiiiilit  lie  tidiililcd  with  remorse,  it'  1  had  time  I'or  it.'' 

Ciittiiiu'  the  animal  up.  not  in  the  most  skillul  Mianiicr, 
I  \\\\u*i  the  meat  at  the  hack  of  my  saddle,  and  rode  on 
ajiiiin.  The  hills  (I  e(»uld  not  rememlier  one  oj'  them) 
closeil  around  me.  ''  It  is  too  late,"  tlii)u;^ht  I.  "  to  ^n» 
forward.  I  will  stay  here  to-niuht,  and  look  for  the  path 
in  the  morninir."  Asa  last  elloit,  howe\er.  I  ascended  u 
lii}.di  hill,  I'rom  which,  i(»  my  <:"reat  satislaction,  I  coidd  sec 
Laramie  (-reek  stretchiuL''  hei'ore  me.  twist inu'  IVom  >ide  to 
side  amid  rati'^'ed  patches  of  timher;  and  lai-  oil",  tdosc 
lieiieath  tlie  shadows  of  the;  trees,  the  ruins  ol"  the  old 
tradinir-forl  were  visihle.  1  reach -d  them  at  twiliuht.  it 
was  far  from  pleasant,  in  that  uncertain  lij:ht.to  he  push- 
inif  through  the  dense  trees  and  hushes  of  the  i:'rove 
beyond.  J  listeiu'd  anxiously  for  the  foot-fall  of  man 
or  i)east.  Nothint>'  was  stirrinjjj  hut  one  harndess  hrowii 
liird.  chii'|)in<i;  amouL^  the  hranehes.  I  was  iilad  when  I 
^'ained  tin*  open  piaiiie  once  more,  where  1  could  see  if 
any  thinj^  approached.  When  I  came  to  the  month  of 
Cluiu'water,  it  was  totally  dui'k.  Sla(d<eniii!i-  the  icins.  1 
let  my  horse  take  his  own  course.  He  trott<'(i  on  with 
nnerrinu;  instinct,  and  l»y  nine  o'chtck  was  scramldin<i:; 
down  the  steep  descent  into  the  meadows  whei-e  we  were 
cncampetl.  While  f  was  h)okin<j:  in  \ain  for  the  liuht  of 
the  lire.  I lendi'ick,  with  keener  perceptions,  e-ave  a  loud 
neigh,  which  was  immediately  answei'ed  hy  another  neiuh 
from  the  distance.  In  a  moment  I  was  hailed  from  the 
(lai-kness  hy  the  voice  of  Reynal,  who  had  come  out,  i-itle 
in  hand,  to  see  who  was  a])proaching. 

lie,  with  his  squaw,  the  two  Canadians  and  the  Indian 
hoys,  were  the  sole  inmates  of  the  camp,  Shaw  and  ifenry 
Cluitillon  being  still  absent.     At  noon  of  the   following 


(i!      ! 


I!' 


Ill 


rv^ 


!  I 


|!  I 


\u 


THE    OBTXiOIS     TRAIL 


day  tlicv  ciiiiic  l.Mck,  iluir  burses  l()()kin<jj  none  tlio  better 
tor  tbc  jouiiicy.  Iknry  secnuHl  dejected.  Tbe  woman 
was  dead,  anil  bis  ebildreu  iiiiist  beiieei'orward  be  exposed, 
vvitbout  a  ]irt)teetor,  to  tbe  liardsbips  and  vieissiludes  of 
Incban  lile.  I']ven  in  tlie  midst  of  bis  <;rier  lie  bad  not 
ibi'gotten  Ids  atl:>'.-liment  to  bis  buunjeolx,  Ibr  be  bad  j)ro- 
cured  amoni^'  bis  Indian  relatives  two  be:vntit"ully  orna- 
mented l)ul"lab>-robes,  wbieb  be  spread  on  tbe  ground  as  a 
present  to  us. 

Sbaw  Uiibted  Ills  pipe,  and  tobl  me  in  a  few  words  tbo 
liistory  of  bis  journey.  Wbi'u  I  went  to  tbe  I'ort  tbey 
kilt  me,  as  I  mentioned,  at  tbe  moutli  of  Cbn^iwater. 
Tbey  I'oUoved  tbe  eourse  of  tb.e  li'tle  stream  all  day, 
iraversing  a  desobite  and  barren  eountry.  Several  times 
tbey  came  upon  tbe  tVesb  traces  of  a  large  war-jjart),  tbo 
same,  no  doul)t,  from  Avbom  we  bad  so  narrov.ly  escaped 
an  attack.  At  an  bour  before  sunjct,  witbout  encijuiiter- 
ing  a  buman  ieing  by  tbe  way,  tbey  came  upon  tbe  lodges 
of  tbe  s(piaw  i  rul  bcr  brotbers,  wbo,  in  eomj)liance  with 
lleniy's  message,  bad  left  tbe  Indian  village,  in  order  to 
join  u.v  at  our  eanij).  Tbe  lodges  were  already  pitebed, 
live  in  number,  by  tbe  side  of  tbe  stream.  Tbe  woman 
lay  in  one  of  them,  reduced  to  a  mere  skeleton,  h'ov 
some  time  sbe  bad  been  unable  to  move  or  speak. 
Indeed,  nolbing  bad  kept  ber  alive  but  tbe  bope  of  see- 
ing  llein-y,  to  wbom  sbe  Avas  strongly  and  laitbrully 
attacbed.  Xo  sooner  did  be  enter  tbe  lodge  tban  sbe 
revived,  and  conversed  witb  liim  tbe  greater  })art  of  tbe 
nigbt.  Early  in  tbe  morning  sbe  was  lifted  into  a  tnii- 
neau.  and  tbe  wbole  [)arty  set  out  towards  our  camp. 
Tbere  were  l)ut  five  warriors ;  tbe  rest  were  women  and 
cbildreii.  Tbc^  wbole  were  in  great  alarm  at  tbe  prox- 
imity of  tbe  Crow  war-party,  wbo  would  certainly  bavo 
killed   them    witb(jut   mercy   had   tbey  met.     Tbey  had 


a 
ii 
a 
u 


citcr 
)inaii 
used, 
us  ol' 
d  not 
1  })ro- 
oriui- 
A  as  a 

Is  the 
b  they 
water. 
.1  day, 
times 
t>,  the 
iscapod 
oviuter- 
lodji'es 
Nvith 
It-v  to 
)it('hv'd, 
Nvonum 
b'oi- 
I  peak, 
of  see- 
Ihrully 
lan  she 
of  the 
a  trai- 
cavni). 
cii  and 
c  prox- 
lly  liave 
ley  had 


^c 


Tilt:    WAR    PARTIES. 


135 


advanced  only  a  mile  or  two,  when  they  discerned  a 
Jiorscmaii,  tar  ot't',  on  the  edge  of  the  horizon.  They  all 
.slopped,  gathering  together  in  the  greatest  anxiety,  from 
which  ihev  ditl  not  j'ecover  until  long  after  the  horseman 
disappeared  ;  then  they  set  out  again.  JJenry  was  riding 
with  Shaw  a  few  rods  in  advance  of  the  Indians,  when 
^hihto-Tatonka,  a  younger  brother  of  the  woman,  hastily 
called  after  them.  Turning  biick,  they  found  all  the  In- 
dians crowded  ar(,>und  the  tiuthwau  in  which  the  woman 
was  lying.  They  reached  her  just  in  time  to  hear  the 
death-iattle  in  her  throat,  in  a  moment  she  lay  dead  in 
the  l)asket  of  the  vehicle.  A  complete  stillness  suc- 
ceeded; then  the  Indians  raised  in  concert  their  cri(3s  of 
lamentation  over  the  corpse,  and  among  them  Shaw 
clearly  distinguished  those  straiige  sounds  resembling  the 
word  •'  Ilalleluyah,"  which,  together  with  some  other  acci- 
dental coincidences,  has  given  rise  to  the  absurd  notion 
that  the  Indians  are  descended  from  the  ten  lost  tribes  of 
lsra(d. 

The  Indian  usage  required  that  Henry,  as  well  as  the 
other  relatives  of  the  woman,  should  make  valuable  pres- 
ents, to  be  placed  l)y  the  side  of  the  body  at  its  last  rest- 
ing-[»lace.  Leaving  the  Indians,  he  and  Shaw  set  out  for 
the  camp,  and  reached  it,  as  we  have  seen,  by  hard  push- 
ing, at  about  n(jon.  Ifaving  obtained  the  necessary 
articles,  they  immediately  returned.  It  was  very  late 
and  quite  dark  when  they  again  reached  the  lodges. 
They  wei'e  all  placed  in  a  deejt  hollow  among  dreary 
hills.  Four  of  them  were  just  visible  througii  the  glo(jni. 
but  the  lilth  and  largest  was  illumined  by  the  blaze  of 
a  lire  within,  glowing  through  the  half-transparent  cover- 
ing of  raw  liidcs.  There  was  a  perfect  stillness  as  they 
approached.     The  lodges  seemed  without  a  tenant.     Not 

ere  was  somethinji'  awful 


§ 


fl'l 


v 


;  .»  if 


,.i{i 


'O   ' 


m 


i!l 


''i 


fil 


13() 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


in  tlic  scene.  They  rode  up  tc  the  entrance  of  tl)e  h)dgo, 
and  there  wtis  no  sound  but  the  tramp  ol"  their  horses. 
A  s(iua\v  came  out  and  took  chai'ge  of  the  animals,  witli- 
out  si)caking  a  word.  Ent(u'ing',  they  found  the  lodge 
crowded  with  Indians;  a  fire  was  hurning  in  the  midst, 
and  the  mourners  encircled  it  in  a  triple  row.  Roi/ni  was 
made  for  the  new-comers  at  the  head  of  the  lodge,  a  I'ohe 
spread  for  them  to  sit  u[)on,and  a  pij)e  lighted  and  handed 
to  them  in  ])erfect  silence.  Thus  they  jiassed  the  greater 
j)art  of  the  night.  At  times  the  lire  would  sid)sidc  into  a 
lieaj*  of  eml)ers,  until  the  dark  figures  seated  around  it 
were  scarcely  visible  ;  then  a  squaw  woidd  drop  upon  it  a 
piece  of  buffalo-fat,  and  a  bright  llame  instantly  spring- 
ing up,  woidd  rc'veal  the  crowd  of  wild  faces,  motionless 
as  bronze.  The  silen"e  (;ontinu','d  unbroken.  It  was  a 
relief  to  Shaw  when  daylight  returned  and  lu;  could  es- 
cape from  this  house  of  mourning.  lie  and  IFeniy  pre- 
pared to  return  homeward;  first,  however,  they  jjlaced 
the  presents  they  had  brought  near  the  body  of  the 
squaw,  which,  gaudily  attired,  remained  in  a  sittiiig  pos- 
ture in  one  of  the  lodges.  A  fine  horse  was  picketed  not 
far  off,  destined  to  be  killed  that  morning  for  the  service 
of  her  sjjirit  :  Ibr  the  wonum  was  lame,  and  could  not 
travel  on  loot  over  the  dismal  }»rairies  to  tlu'  villiigcs  of 
the  dead.  Food,  too,  was  provided,  and  household  imple- 
ments, for  her  use  upon  this  last  journey. 

Henry  left  her  to  the  care  of  her  I'elatives,  and  came 
immediately  with  Shaw  to  the  canq).  It  was  some  time 
before  he  enlii'ely  recovered  from  his  dejection. 


•    i       I    'H       I 


CHAPTER  XI. 


SCENKS    AT    TlIK    CAMP. 


73  EYXAL  licanl  guns  fired  one  day,  at  the  distance  of 
■'-^  a  mile  or  two  from  tlie  camp,  lie  irrcw  nervous 
instantly.  Visions  of  Crow  war-parties  liegan  to  liaunt 
his  imauination  ;  and  when  we  returned  (for  av(,'  were  all 
absent),  he  renewed  his  complaints  about  being  left  alone 
with  the  Canadians  and  the  sc^uaw.  The  day  ai'ter,  the 
cause  of  the  alarm  appeared.  Four  trapjjcrs,  called 
Morin,  Saraphiii,  Rouleau,  and  Gingras.  came  to  our 
camp  and  joined  us.  They  it  was  who  fired  the  gims  and 
disturbed  the  dreams  of  our  confederate  Reynal.  They 
soon  encamped  Ijy  our  side.  Their  rifles,  dingy  and  bat- 
tered with  hard  service,  rested  witii  ours  against  tlu;  old 
tree  ;  their  strong  rude  saddles,  their  buffalo-robes,  their 
ti'a})S,  and  the  few  rough  and  simj)le  articles  of  their  travel- 
ling eijuipntcnt  were  piled  near  our  tent.  Their  mcjuntain- 
horses  were  turned  to  u'raze  in  the  meadow  nmong  our 
own  ;  and  the  men  themselves,  no  less  rough  and  hardy, 
used  to  lie  half  the  day  in  the  shade  of  our  tree,  lolling 
on  the  grass,  lazilv  smokinsr,  and  tellinir  stories  of  their 
adventures  ;  and  1  defy  the  annals  of  chivalry  to  I'uiiiish 
the  record  of  a  life  more  wild  and  perilous  than  that  of  a 
Rocky  Mountain  trapper. 

With  this  efhcient  reinforcement  the  agitation  of  Rey- 
naVs  nerves  subsided.  We  began  to  conceive  a  sort  of 
attachment  to  our  old  camping  ground  ;  yet  it  was  time 


1. 


"11 

'  ilk  B 


^^,,.,- 


^Iii 


Ni 


138 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


'     M' 


I'il;     .'t    ' 


to  change  our  (luarlcrs,  since  remaining  too  long  on  one 
spot  nujst  lead  to  unpleasant  results,  not  to  be  borne 
unless  in  case  of  dire  necessity.  The  grass  no  longer 
presented  a  smooth  surface  of  turf;  it  was  trampled  into 
nnid  and  ehiy.  So  we  removed  to  another  old  tree,  larger 
}('t,  that  grew  by  the  side  (jf  tlie  river  a  furl(jiig  distant. 
Its  trunk  was  full  six  lectin  diameter  ;  on  one  side  it  was 
marked  by  a  party  of  Indians  with  various  inexplicable 
hieroglyphics,  commemorating  some  warlike  enterprise, 
and  aloft  among  the  branches  were  the  renuiins  of  a 
scalfbld,  where  dead  bodies  had  once  been  deposited,  after 
the  Indian  manner. 

"  There  comes  IJuU-Bear,''  said  Henry  Chatillon,  as  wo 
sat  on  the  grass  at  dinner.  Looking  up,  we  saw  several 
horsemen  coming  over  the  neighl)oring  hill,  and  in  a 
moment  four  stately  young  men  rode  up  and  dismounted. 
One  of  them  was  JJull-lJeai',  or  Mahto-Tatonka,  a  coni- 
])Ound  name  which  he  inlierited  from  his  father,  the  ])rin- 
cipal  chief  in  the  Ogillallah  band.  One  of  his  brothers 
and  two  other  y(-)ung  men  accompanied  him.  AVe  shook 
hands  with  tlie  visitors,  and  when  we  had  finished  our 
meal  —  for  this  is  the  ai»proved  manner  of  entertaining 
Indians,  even  the  best  of  them  —  we  handed  to  each  a 
tin  cup  of  coffee  and  a  biscuit,  at  which  they  ejaculated 
from  the  bottom  of  their  throats,  "  How !  how  !  "  a  mono- 
syllable l)y  which  an  Indinn  contrives  to  ex})rcss  half  the 
emotions  of  which  he  is  suscei)tible.  Then  we  lighted 
the  pipe,  and  passed  it  to  them  as  tliey  squatted  on  the 
ground. 

'^  Where  is  the  village?" 

'■There,"   said    Mahto-Tatonka,    pointing    southward; 


u 


it  will 


come  in  two  days. 


Will  they  go  to  the  war 
Yes." 


? " 


f 


■i^ 


k4 


m 


k 


^-3. 


SCENES     AT    THE     CAMT. 


i;39 


No  man  is  a  })liilantliroi)ist  on  llie  })raiiit>.  Wo  wel- 
comed this  news  cordially,  and  con«iratulated  oui'selves 
that  Bordeaux's  interested  et'tbrts  to  divert  The  Whirlwind 
from  his  eonuenial  vocation  of  hloodshed  had  failed  of 
success,  and  that  ikj  further  obstacles  would  interj)ose 
between  us,  and  our  plan  of  repairing  to  the  rendezvous 
at  La  Jjonte's  camp. 

For  that  and  several  succeeding  days,  Mahto-Tatonka 
and  his  friends  lemained  our  guests.  They  devoured 
the  relics  of  our  meals;  they  filled  the  pipe  for  us,  and 
also  heli)ed  us  to  smoke  it.  Sometimes  they  stretched 
themselves  side  by  side  in  the  shade,  indulging  in  railery 
and  etpiivocal  jokes,  ill  becoming  the  dignity  of  brave  and 
asj)iring  wari'iors,  such  as  two  of  them  in  reality  were. 

Two  days  dragged  away,  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
third  we  hoped  confidently  to  see  the  Indian  village.  It 
did  not  come  ;  so  we  rode  out  to  look  for  it.  In  place  of 
the  eight  hundred  Indians  we  expected,  we  met  one  soli- 
tary savage  riding  towards  us  over  the  i)raii'ie,  who  told 
us  that  the  Indians  liad  changed  their  ])lan,  and  would 
not  come  within  three  days.  Taking  along  willi  us  this 
messenger  of  evil  titlings,  we  retraced  our  footsteps  U) 
the  camp,  amusing  ourselves  l)y  the  way  witli  execrating 
Indian  inconstancy.  When  we  came  in  sight  of  our  little 
white  tent  under  the  big  tree,  we  saw  that  it  no  hjnger 
stood  alone.  A  huge  old  lodge  was  erected  by  its  side, 
discolored  by  rain  and  storms,  rotten  with  age,  with  the 
uncouth  ligui'cs  of  horses  and  men  and  outstretched  hands 
that  were  painted  upon  it,  well  nigh  obliterated.  The 
long  poles  which  sup[)orted  tliis  scpuilid  habitation  thrust 
themselves  rakishly  out  from  its  pointed  toj),  and  over  its 
entrance  were  suspended  a  ''  medicine-pipe"'  and  vari(nis 
other  inii)lements  of  the  nuigic  art.  While  we  were  yet 
at  a  distance,  we  observed  a  greatly  increased  population 


<|l||j| 


if 


Mil 


L'    W 


'^  :|i 


I,  i 


140 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


^;i 


!ii 


of  various  colors  and  (linioiisions,  swarming  about  our 
quiet  cncanijiuicnt.  Moi'iii,  the  trapjicr,  liaviii^-  l)Con 
absent  for  a  day  or  two,  bad  returned,  it  seemed,  bringing 
all  bis  family  witb  bim.  lie  bad  taken  to  bimself  a  wife, 
f(ji'  wboni  be  bad  paid  tbe  establisbed  i)riee  of  one  borse. 
Tbis  looks  ebeap  at  first  sigbt,  but  in  trnib  tbe  piu'cbase 
of  a  s(piaw  is  a  transaction  wbieb  no  man  sbould  enter 
into  w'itbout  mature  deliberation,  since  it  involves  not 
oidy  tbe  jjayment  of  tbe  price,  but  tbe  burden  of  feeding 
and  sup](orting  a  raj)acious  borde  of  tlu;  bride's  relatives, 
wbo  bold  tbemselves  entitled  to  feed  upon  tbe  indiscreet 
wbite  man.  Tbey  gatber  about  liini  like  leecbes,  and 
di'ain  bim  of  all  be  lias. 

Morin  bad  not  made  an  aristocratic  matcb.  His  bride's 
relatives  occupied  but  a  contemptible  ])Osition  in  Ogillallah 
society  ;  for  among  tbese  democrats  of  tbe  i)rairie,  as 
among  otbers  more  civili/ed,  tliere  arc  virtual  distinctions 
of  rank  and  place.  Morin's  partner  was  not  tbe  most 
beautiful  of  ber  sex,  and  be  bad  tbe  bad  taste  to  array  licr 
in  an  old  calico  y-own,  bouubt  from  an  cmiii'rant  woman, 
instead  of  tbe  neat  tunic  of  wdiitened  deer-skin  usually 
worn  by  tbe  squaws.  Tbe  moving  spirit  of  tlic  cstab- 
lisbment  was  an  old  bag  of  eiulitv.  Ilinnan  imat>ination 
never  conceived  bobgoblin  or  witcb  more  ugly  tlian  slie. 
You  could  count  all  ber  ribs  tbrougb  tbe  wrinkles  of  ber 
leatbery  skin.  Tier  witbered  face  more  resembled  an  old 
skull  tban  tbe  countenance  of  a  lixing  being,  even  to  tbe 
lioUow,  darkened  sockets,  at  tbe  bottom  of  wbieb  glitt(>red 
her  little  black  eves.  Her  arms  bad  dwindled  into  notb- 
ing  but  wlii})-cord  and  wire.  Her  liair,  balf  black,  lialf 
gray,  bung  in  total  neglect  nearly  to  tbe  ground,  and  her 
sole  garment  consisted  of  tbe  remnant  of  a  discarded 
buflido-robe  tied  round  bor  waist  witb  a  string  of  bide. 
Yet  tbe  old  s(piaw's  meagre   anatomy   was  wonderfully 


■  ( ■)  'hi  t 


Mii: 


\.,:il 


:.  ilj    i 


f  li 


SCENES    AT    THE    CAMP. 


141 


sti'oiitr.  ''^Ih'  jiitclicil  tlu>  l()(lt;'c,  i)acked  tlie  liors(>s.  and 
(lid  the  liiirdcst  laltor  ol"  the  camp.  From  luoi'iun^'  till 
iiiulit  she  hiisllcd  ahoiittlio  lodii'o,  screamiiiji;  like  a  scrcccli- 
owl  when  any  tiling"  dis|»leas(Ml  lier.  Her  l)i()lher,  a  "  mcd- 
icine-maii,"'  or  niiiuiciaii,  was  tM{ually  gaunt  and  sinewy 
with  licrselt".  His  month  spread  IVoni  car  to  ear,  and  his 
appetite,  as  we  liad  oeeasion  to  learn,  was  ravenous  in 
}»roportion.  The  other  inmates  ol"  the  lodge  were  ayonuL^ 
l)rid(!  and  bridegroom,  the  hitter  one  of  those  idle,  good- 
for-nothing  fellows  who  infest  an  Indian  village  as  w(dl  as 
more  civilized  communities.  Jle  was  lit  neither  for  hunt- 
ing nor  war,  as  one  might  see  from  tlie  stolid  unmeaning 
expression  of  his  IVu^e.  The  haj)py  pair  luid  just  entered 
uj)oii  the  lu)neymoon.  They  would  strotcli  a  huffalo-rohc 
upon  poles,  to  }>rotect  tlieu)  from  the  rays  of  tlie  sun,  and 
spreading  under  it  a  couch  of  furs,  would  sit  affectionately 
side  bv  side  I'or  half  tlie  dav,  though  1  could  not  discover 
that  much  conversation  passed  l)etween  them.  Prohahly 
they  liad  nothing  to  say  ;  for  an  Indian's  supply  of  topics 
for  conversation  is  far  from  being  coj>ious.  There  were 
half  a  dozen  children,  too,  jilaying  and  whooping  about 
the  camp,  shooting"  birds  with  little  bows  and  ari'ows,  or 
making  miniature  lodges  of  sticks,  as  children  of  a  dif- 
ferent complexion  build  houses  of  blocks. 

A  day  passed,  and  Indians  began  rapidly  to  come  in. 
Parties  of  two,  three,  or  more  would  ride  up  and  silently 
seat  themselves  on  the  grass.  The  fourth  day  came  at 
last,  when  aliout  noon  horsemen  appeai'ed  in  view  on  the 
sunnnii  of  the  neighboi'ing  ridge.  JJehind  followed  a  wild 
procession,  hui'iying  in  haste  and  dis(jrder  down  the  hill 
and  over  the  plain  below  ;  horses. nudes,  and  dogs;  heav- 
ily-burdened traincaux^  mounted  warriors,  sipuiws  walking 
amid  the  throng,  and  a  host  of  children.  For  a  full  half- 
hour  they  continued  to  pour  down;  and  keeping  directly 


4 


I       r'ti 


142 


THE    ORKGON    TIIAIL. 


Ill 


to  the  lioiid  of  llic  strciLin,  williiri  ;i  fiirloiifi-  of  us,  tlioy 
soon  iisscniltlcd  tlici'c,  a  dark  and  conl'iiscd  tlironn'.  until, 
as  if  l»y  mairic,  a  liiiiidivd  and  lil'ty  tall  lodiics  s|)ran^'  up. 
The  lonely  plain  was  traiisloi'incd  info  the  site  ol"  a  swarii'i- 
in<^'  cncanipnKiit.  Countless  Iioi'ses  were  soon  uraziiii^ 
f)V'T  (lie  meadows  around  us,  and  llie  prairio  was 
animated  hy  i-estlcss  litiures  earcci'ini'"  <>n  lioi-sehaek,  or 
KL'(uitely  stalking  in  their  long  white  roUes.  The  Whirl- 
wind was  coino  at  last.  One  .|Ut'slion  yet  i'ojnain(Ml  to  ho 
answered:  "  Wili  he  v.)  to  the  war  in  order  that  we,  witli 
so  respectahle  an  escort,  may  pass  over  to  the  soniewliat 
perilous  I'endezvous  at  La  IJontd's  camp?'' 

This  still  remained  in  douht.  Charaelerisiic  indecision 
perplexed  their  councils.  Indians  .an not  act  in  lar<re 
hotlies.  Thonu'h  their  oojecl  he  of  the  highest  i.npor- 
tancc,  they  cannot  comhine  to  attain  it  hy  .6  series  of  con- 
nected efl()i'ts.  Kino-  Phdip,  Pontiac,  and  Tecumseh,  all 
fell  this  to  their  cost.  The  Ojz'illallah  once  had  a  war- 
chiei  wIhj  could  control  them  ;  hut  he  was  dead,  and  now 
they  were  left  to  the  sway  of  their  own  unsteady  im- 
pulses. 

As  this  Indian  Yillau-o  and  its  inhahitants  will  hold  a 
prominent  j)lacc  in  the  rest  of  the  story.  ]ierhaj»s  it  may 
not  be  amiss  to  glance  for  an  instant  at  the  savage  peojde 
of  which  they  form  apart.  The  Dahcotah  or  Sioux  ia!)'j:e 
over  a  vast  territory,  from  the  I'ivcr  St,  Peter  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  They  arc  divided  into  fMi'veral  inde]>;Mident 
hands,  united  under  no  central  government,  and  acknrwl- 
cdti'ing  no  common  head.  The  same  lanauaire,  usai-es,  and 
superstitions  form  the  sole  hond  hetween  them.  Thev 
do  not  unite  even  in  their  wars.  The  hsuids  of  the  cast 
fight  the  Ohjihwas  on  the  Upper  Lakes  ;  those  of  tlic  west 
make  incessant  war  upon  tlie  Snake  Indians  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains.     As  the  Avhole  people  is  divlued  into  hands, 


I 


srENi:s    \T   Tiir;    camt. 


11:3 


so  cncli  l>nii(l  is  divldod  into  villntrcs.  I''a('li  villiiuc  lius  a 
chicr,  who  is  honored  mid  oliovcd  oulv  so  far  as  Ids  per- 
soiial  (|ualili('s  may  coniinaiid  ivsjtocl  and  toar.  Sonic- 
liinos  lie  is  a  nicro  nominal  rlucr:  somotimrs  Ids  antlioi'ijy 
is  little  slioi't  of  alisolnte,  aiul  Ids  lame  and  inflnoneo  reach 
beyond  his  own  villau'e,  so  that  the  wh(de  l»and  to  which 
he  lielongs  is  ready  to  aeknowleil^e  him  as  their  head. 
This  was,  a  lew  years  sinc(\  the  case  with  the  Ou'illallali. 
(/ouraii'e,  address,  and  enterprise  may  i-aise  any  wai'rior 
to  the  hiiihest  lnuior,  espe'v^ially  il'  he  he  the  son  of  a  loi'- 
nicr  chieC,  or  a  memi)cr  of  a  numerous  landly.  to  support 
him  and  avenue  his  (piarrels  ;  hut  when  he  has  reacluMJ 
the  (li<i'nity  of  chief,  and  the  old  men  and  warri(U's,  i)y  a 
peculiar  cercMuony,  have  formally  installed  him,  let  it  not 
he  ima<rined  that  he  assumes  any  of  the  outward  siiiiis  of 
rank  and  lionor.  Ife  know  too  well  on  liow  frail  a  temiro 
he  holds  his  station.  He  must  conciliate  his  uncci'tain 
suhjccts.     Many  a  man  in  the  village  lives  hettei-,  owns 


more  sq 


uaws  and  more  horses,  and  liocs  better  clad  than 


he.  fiike  the  'IVutonic  cldefs  of  old,  he  int^'ratiates  him- 
self with  his  young  men  by  making  them  ]»rescnts,  there- 
l»y  often  impoverishing  himself.  If  lie  fails  to  gain  their 
favor,  they  will   set  his  authority  at  .laught,   and   may 


•th 


at 


'ut ;  for  the 


of  li 


y  mome 

liave  j)rovided  no  means  of  enforcing  his  authority.  Veiy 
seldom  does  it  happen,  at  least  among  these  western  bands, 
that  a  chief  attains  to  nmch  [)0wer,  unless  he  is  the  heail 
of  a  numerous  family.  Frequently  the  village  is  pi-inci- 
pally  made  up  of  his  relatives  and  descendants,  and  the 
wandering  community  assumes  much  of  the  patriarchal 
character. 

I'he  western  Dalu'otah  have  no  fixed  halutations. 
Iltniting  and  fighting,  they  wander  incessantly,  through 
summer  and  winter,     .^ome  follow  the  herds  of  buffalo 


1    f   i 


111 


;i 


141 


Tin;    ()IU:(i()N    TRAIL. 


m 


I    '1, 


^||i       :;,,ti     I' 

'I  'I ; 


over  llic  waste  of  |»rairi(! ;  others  traverse  the  IJhick  Hills, 
thronging',  on  horsehack  and  oii  loot,  throiiu'h  the  dark 
fiuifs  jiiid  soiiila'e  g'or^'es,  and  cinei'^'i,!^  at  last  upon  the 
"  I'aiks,"  those  heautii'id  hut  ii..,.st  pci'ilous  huutlug- 
gi'ounds.  'I'lic  hidValo  supplies  them  uilh  the  u«'cessai"ies 
of  life;  with  haliilatious,  loud,  elolhinji,  heds,  and  fuel; 
strings  for  their  hows,  glue,  thread,  cordage,  trail-ropes 


Inr   (heir   horses,  eoverinu's   for  tl  'ir   sadd 


les,  vesse 


Is  t 


o 


h(»ld  water,  hoats  to  ci'oss  streams,  aud  the  means  oi"  jiui'- 
eliasing  all  that  they  want  from  the  traders.  When  the 
hidlalo  are  extiiu't,  they  t(»o  nuist  dwindle  away. 

War  is  the  hreath  of  their  nostrils.  Against  most  of 
the  neighboring  tribes  they  cherish  a  rancorous  hatred, 
transmittcsd  from  father  to  son,  and  inlhimed  by  constant 
aggression  and  retaliation.  Many  times  a  year,  in  every 
village,  the  (Jreat  Spirit  is  called  upon,  fasts  are  made, 
tli(!  war-j)ara<le  is  celebrated,  and  the  wan-iors  go  out  by 
hiindfuls  at  a  time  against  the  enemy.  This  fierce  spirit 
awakens  their  most  eager  aspirations,  and  calls  forth  their 
greatest  energies.  It  is  cliielly  this  that  saves  them  from 
lethai'gy  and  utter  abasement.  Without  its  jiowerful 
stimidus  they  wt)uld  l)e  like  the  unwarlike  tribes  beyond 
tlu!  mountains,  scattered  among  the  caves  and  rocks  like 
beasts,  and  living  on  roots  and  re})tiles.  These  latter 
liave  little  of  humanity  except  the  iorm  ;  but  the  proud 
and  ambitious  Dahcotah  warrior  can  sometimes  l)oast 
heroic  virtues.  It  is  seldom  that  distinction  and  inlluenco 
are  attained  among  them  by  any  other  ct»urse  than  that 
of  arms.  Their  su[)crstition,  however,  sometimes  gives 
great  }>ower  to  those  among  them  who  [)retend  to  the 
character  of  magicians ;  and  their  oratoi's,  such  as  they 
are,  have  their  share  of  honor. 

But  to  return.  Look  into  our  tent,  or  enter,  if  you  can 
bear  the  stifling  smoke  and  the  close  air.     There,  wedged 


tiiii' 


s('i;m;.s   at   tiii:   ca.mi*. 


U.) 


dose  t(><i(,'tli('r,  yon    will   sec   a   circle  oi'   stitiil    waiiiors, 
jtassiiin;  tlic  iiipc  aiiMiiid, /)(»kiii<i',  Iclliii;;'  sturics,  ;iiul   luak- 


iiiU'  tliciuschcs  iiit'iiv  iillci'  then-  riisliioii. 


W" 


('  were  also 


iiilt'Htc 


lylitllc   co|)|MT-ci»l(»i'c([   naked   Imys  and   snakt;- 


eyi'd  fi'ifls.     They  wonld  come  up  to  us,  nmtlL'rin;^  certiiin 
words,  which   iieinu'  intei'|»reted  conscyed   the  concise  in- 


vitation, •*  Come  iind   cat. 


'J'lien  \vc  would  lise,  cursinir 


the  pertinacity  of  hahcotali  hospitality,  which  allowed 
si'iircely  Jill  liour  of  rest  hetwceu  sun  and  sun.  ami  to 
which  we  were  hound  to  do  honor,  nidess  we  wouM  ol'lcnd 


our  eiitei'tainers. 


This  neeessilv  was  particularly  hur- 
(U'usome  to  luc,  as  1  was  scarcely  al»le  to  walk,  IVoni  the 
.'lli'cts  oC  illness,  and  was  poorly  (pudified  to  dispose  ol' 
twenty    ncals   a   day.       So  honnteous   an   entertainment 


looks    like  ail   oiit<inshinii"  ot"    <i'oo(l-wil 


Hit,  doiihtli'ss. 


hair  at  least  of  our  kind  hosts,  had  lliev  met  us  alono  and 
unarmed  on  the  ])rairie,  woiiM  have  rolihed  us  of  our 
horses,  and    perhaps  have   hestv)wed   an  arrow   upw:.  us 


hesKies. 


() 


ne  moi'iuni;  we  were  suninio 


ned    to   the   lodu'c   of  an 


old   man,  the  Nestor  of  his  tr 


W 


e    loUlK 


1    1 


tini 


half 


sitlinu',  half  rc.'clininu',  on  a  pile  of  hullalo-roix's  ;  his  hjug 
liiiir.  Jet-lilack,  though  he  had  sei-ii  some  eiuhty  winters, 
liuiiu' on  either  side  of  Ills  thin  features.  His  gaunt  hut 
symmetrical  frame  did  not  more  clearly  exhihit  the  wreck 
1)1'  hv-u'one  strenu'th,  than  did  his  dark,  wastetl  features. 


St  11 


priunineiit  and  commanding,  hear  the  stanij)  of  men- 
tal energies.     Opposite  the  jiatriarch  was  his  nephew,  the 
yt)uiig  aspirant  Mahto-Tatonka  :  and  besides  these,  there 
were  one  oi-  two  women  in  the  lodge. 
The  old  man's  story  is  peculiar,  and    illustrative  of  a 


superstition 


that 


dl 


prevads  in  lull  lorce  among  many  ot  the 


Indian    trihes.     lie   was  one  of  a    powerful   family,  re- 
nowned for  warlike  ex})loits.     When  a  very  young  man, 


10 


(•' 


H'l 

I 


■I'iiif 


I 


140 


THE    OKlidON    Til  AIL. 


! 


lie  siilmiiitcd  io  llic  siiijiiiliii'  rile  to  wliicli  iiiosl  of  llic 
tfiltc  Sllhjcct  lll(MllS('l\«'S  Im'I'oic  I'lltcl-illU'  U|i(ill  lilr.  lie 
j»n;iit('(l  liis  face  Itliick  ;  llicii  scckiipj;  out  a  caNrin  in  a 
H('(|iK'strr(M|  |iarl  of  the  Mlack  Hills,  Ik-  lay  lor  ,sc\cral 
days,  lastiiMj;.  and  [d'ayiiiu;  <•>  llic  spii'lts.  In  llic  (jicinns 
and  \  isidiis  prddiiccd  liv  his  wciikciKMJ  and  excited  state, 
he  l:incic(|,  like  all  Indians,  that  he  saw  snpernalni'al 
revelations.  A^ain  and  a<^ain  the  I'onnol'  an  anlehipc 
uppeared  liel'ore  him.  The  antelojie  is  the  uraeefnl  peace- 
spirit  of  the  Oii'illallah  ;  hut  seldom  is  it  that  such  a  ^(Mitle 
visitor  presents  itself  dnrinji'  th(^  initiatory  lasts  of  their 
youiiji:  men.  The  tei'i-ihle  ;:rizzly  heai",  the  divinity  ol" 
war,  usually  appears  to  lire  them  with  martial  ardoi-  and 
thirst  ior  i-enown.  At  lenii;th  the  {mt(dope  spoke.  it 
told  the  youn^'  dreamer  that  he  was  not  to  follow  the 
path  of  war;  that  a  life  of  peace  and  traiapiillity  was 
markeil  out  for  him  ;  that  thenceforward  Ik;  was  to  <j;uide 
the  people  hy  liis  eouns(ds.  and  protect  them  from  the 
evils  of  theii'  own  feuds  and  dissensions.  Olhei's  w(M'<'  to 
gain  renown  hy  lluhtinu'  the  enemy;  hut  greatness  of  a 
diflerenl  kind  was  in  store  for  him. 

The  visions  helield  during  the  period  of  tliis  fast  usually 
determine  the  whole  course  of  tlie  dreamer's  life.  From 
tliat  lime.  FiC  IJorgne,  which  was  the  only  name  hy  whi(di 
we  knew  him.  ahandonedall  thoughts  of  wai',  and  devoted 
liiniself  to  the  lal)ors  of  j)eace.  He  told  liis  vision  to  the 
people.  They  honored  his  conniiission  and  respected  him 
in  his  novel  capacity. 

A  far  ditfei-cnt  mail  was  his  l)rother,  Mahto-Tatonkn. 
who  had  left  his  name,  his  features,  and  many  of  his  qual- 
ities, to  his  son.  Jle  was  the  fatlicr  of  Henry  Chatillon's 
squaw,  a  circumstance  which  proved  of  some  advantag(! 
to  us,  as  it  secured  the  friendship  of  a  family  perhaps  the 
most  noted  and  influential  in  the  whole  Ogillallah  hand. 


Sn 


II.' 

Ill  :i 
criil 
■iin\rt 
till*', 

tUTill 

n'ivco- 

LlMltli! 

tlicir 
ity  of 
r  and 
).      It 

y  was 
n   tlu' 

(.)•(«    to 
S  ol'   1» 

iisimlly 
From 
whifli 

K'Volt'tl 

o  \\\v 
icil  him 

l\tonkn. 
is  (|ual- 
Itillou'^ 

h»ntag(! 
ps  tlio 

li  bauel. 


SCF.NKS    AT    Till'     (WW. 


117 


Miilito-Tntonka,  in  liis  way,  was  iv  lioro.  No  chirr  could 
vio  with  liiiii  ill  wai'liko  renown,  or  in  jxtwcr  osci-  his 
pcdjilc.      Mc  liail  a  I'cai'lcss  spirit,  and  an  ini|iclnoiis  and  in- 


llcxjlilc  resolution.      Mis  will  was  la 


w 


J! 


e  was  politic  a 


nd 


saiiiicious.  and  with  true  Indian  eral't.  always  heriicnded 
the  whites,  kiiowiim'  that  he  niitihl  thus  reap  ui'eat,  ail- 
vaiita<j:es  for  hinisell'  and  his  adherents.  W'lieii  he  liad 
resolved  on  any  course  of  conduct,  he  would  pay  to  the  war- 
riors the  coniplinient  of  calliiiL;'  them  to<jether  to  delilieralo 
Upon  it,  and  when  their  dehates  were  over,  (piietly  slate  his 
own  opinion,  which  no  one  ever  disjiuted.  It  liireij  hard. 
^vith  those  who  ineuri'cd  ]iisdispl(>asure.  lie  would  strike? 
them  or  stall  them  on  the  s|)ol  ;  and  this  act,  which  if  at- 
tempted liy  any  other  chief  would  have  cost  him  his  Tdc, 
the  awe  inspii'cd  hy  his  name  onaltled  him  to  repeat  ai!ain 
and  airain  with  impunity.  In  u  connnnnity  where,  from 
inunemorial  time,  no  man  lias  acknowledued  any  law  hut 
his  own  will,  Mahto-Tatonka  raiscMl  himself  to  power 
little  short  of  des|)otie.  Jlis  career  came  at  last  to  an 
end.  He  had  a  host  of  enennes  ]iatiently  hidini;'  their 
time;  and  ourold  friend  Smoke  in  jiarticiilar.  together 
with  all  his  kinsmen,  hated  him  cordially.  Smoke  sat 
o\u'  day  in  his  loduc,  in  the  midst  of  his  own  vilhe^e.  when 
^hdito-Tatonka  entered  it  alone,  and  approaching-  the 
(IweUint":  of  his  enemy,  challenu'ed  him  in  a  loud  \oice  to 
come  out,  and  liuht.  Smoke  woidd  not  move.  At  this, 
Malito-Tatonka  jiroclaimed  him  a  coward  and  an  old 
woman,  and,  stridin<r  to  the  entrance  of  the  loduc,  stahlied 
the  chief's  best  horse,  which  was  picketed  tliere.  Smoke 
was  daunted,  and  even  this  insult  failed  to  hrin;:'  him  out. 
Mahto-Tatonka  moved  hanohtily  away  ;  all  made  way  for 
him  ;  hut  his  honr  of  reckoning:  was  near. 


One  hot  da  v.  live  or  six  years  aii" 


Smol 


(>,  numerous  lodues  of 
e's  kinsmen  were   uatliered  about  some  of  the  Fur 


\\ 


!il 


'i 


;.M!if;t| 


V  5 !      I: 


148 


THE    OKllGON    lllAIL. 


I*'      .:' 


.V     i;     I 


I   '.li     1, 


Coiiijiaiiy's  men,  wlio  wore  tratl'iiu'  in  various  articles  with 
them,  wliiskcy  ani()n<^'  the  rest.  Malito-Tatonka  wa:^  also 
there  willi  a  few  of  liis  ])e()itle.  As  he  lay  in  his  own 
hxlge,  a  IVay  arose  between  his  adherents  and  the  kins- 
men of  hi^;  enemy.  The  war-whoo{)  was  raise<l,  l)ullets 
and  anows  he<2;an  to  fly,  and  ihe  camp  was  in  conliision. 
The  chief  sj)rang  up,  and  rushing  in  a  fury  from  the  lodge 
shoutecl  to  th(;  combatants  on  both  sides  to  cease.  In- 
stantly—  ibr  the  attack  was  })reconcerted  —  came  the  re- 
ports of  two  or  three  guns,  and  the  twanging  of  a  dozen 
bows,  and  the  savage  hero,  mortally  wounded,  ])itched 
forward  headlong  to  the  ground.  Rouleau  was  ])resent, 
and  told  me  the  i)articulars.  The  tnmnlt  became  general, 
and  was  not  (juelled  until  several  had  iallen  on  both  sides. 
When  we  wei'c  in  the  country  the  feud  l)etween  the  two 
families  was  still  rankling. 

Thus  tlird  ^hdito-Tatonka ;  but  he  left  beliind  him  a 
goodly  army  of  descendants,  to  perpetuate  his  renown  and 
avenge  his  late.  Besides  daughters,  he  had  thirty  sons, 
a  number  wlii('h  need  not  stagger  the  credulity  of  those 
acquainted  with  Indian  usages  and  practices.  We  saw 
many  of  them,  all  marked  by  the  same  dark  complexion, 
and  the  same  ])eculiar  cast  tU'  I'eatures.  Of  these,  our 
visitor,  young  ^lahto-Tatonka,  was  the  eldest,  and  some 
reported  him  as  likely  to  succeed  to  his  father's  lionors. 
Though  he  appeared  not  more  than  twenty-one  years  old, 
lie  had  oftener  struck  the  enemy,  and  stolen  more  horses 
and  more  squaws,  than  any  vounu'  man  in  the  villaw. 
Ilorse-stealing  is  well  known  as  an  avenue  to  distinction 
o:i  tlie  jirairies,  and  the  other  kind  of  depredation  is  es- 
teemed e(|ually  meritorious.  Not  that  the  act  can  confer 
fame  IVom  its  own  intrinsic  uierits.  Any  one  can  steal  a 
squaw,  and  if  he  chooses  afterwards  to  make  an  adequate 
present  to  her  rightful   proprietor,  the  easy  husband  for 


(■   ir%:- 


M 


n  tind 

sons, 

tlit.so 
'e  saw 
lexion, 
;e,  our 
sonic 
jonoi'S. 

irs  oKl, 
llioi'ses 

illa(2;o. 
Inetion 
is  es- 

cont'cr 

steal  a 
llcqnate 

Lud  ibr 


SCENES    AT    THE    CAMP. 


U9 


the  most  part  rests  content,  liis  vengeance  falls  asleep, 
and  all  danu'er  from  that  quarter  is  averted.  Yet  this  is 
regarded  as  a  }»itit'ul  and  mean-spirited  transaction.  The 
danger  is  averted,  hut  the  glory  of  the  achievement  also 
is  lost.  ^lahto-Tatonka  ]»roeecde(l  after  a  more  dashing 
fashion.  Out  of  several  dozen  squaws  whom  he  had  stolen, 
lie  could  hoast  that  he  had  never  })aid  for  oiie,  Imt  sua[>- 
])iug  his  lingers  in  the  face  of  the  injured  husliand,  had 
defied  the  extreuiity  of  his  indignation,  and  no  one  yet 
had  dared  to  lay  the  finger  of  violence  upon  him.  He  was 
following  close  in  the  footstejis  of  his  father.  The  young 
men  and  the  young  scpiaws,  each  in  their  way,  admired  him. 
The  former  would  always  follow  him  to  war,  and  he  was 
esteemed  to  have  an  unrivalled  charm  in  the  eyes  of  the 
latter.  Perhaps  his  im|)unity  may  excite  some  wonder. 
An  arrow  shot  from  a  ravine,  ov  a  stah  given  in.  the  dark, 
require  no  great  valor,  and  are  especially  suited  to  the 
Indian  genius;  but  Mahto-Tatonka  had  a  strong  jirotec- 
tion.  It  was  not  alone  his  courage  and  audacious  will 
that  enabled  him  to  career  so  dashingly  among  his  com- 
peers. His  enemies  did  not  forget  that  he  was  one  of 
thirty  warlike  brethren,  all  growing  uj)  to  manhood. 
Should  they  wreak  their  anger  upon  liim,  many  keen  eyes 
would  be  ever  upon  them,  and  many  fierce  hearts  thirst 
for  their  blood.  The  avenger  would  dog  their  footsteps 
everywhere.  To  kill  ^lahto-Tatonka  would  be  an  act  of 
suicide. 

Though  he  found  such  favor  in  the  eyes  of  the  fair,  he 
was  no  dandy.  He  was  indifferent  to  the  gaudy  trappings 
and  ornaments  of  his  comj)anions,  and  was  content  to  rest 
his  chances  of  success  ujton  his  own  warlike  merits.  He 
never  arrayed  himself  in  gaudy  blanket  and  glittering 
necklaces,  but  left  his  statue-like  form,  limbed  like  an 
Apollo  of  bronze,  to  win  its  way  to  favor.     Ills  voice  was 


Mi 
HI:? 


1  f  .* 

!     ,1 


1 


I\'\ 


\\ 


:i,  •'^■•'Ft' 


I't 


150 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


,1  -i/ 


!ii 


i     ! 


singularly  di^op  and  strong,  and  sounded  from  his  chest 
lik(3  the  dec})  i;<.<cs  of  an  organ.  Yet  after  all,  he  was 
but  an  Indian.  See  him  as  lie  lies  there  in  the  sun  heforc 
our  tent,  kicking  his  heels  in  the  air  and  cracking  jokes 
with  his  l)r()thcr.  l)(jes  he  look  like  a  hero  ?  See  him 
now  in  ihe  hour  of  ids  glory,  when  at  sunset  the  whole 
village  cnij)tics  itself  to  hehold  him,  for  to-morrow  their 
favorite  young  ])artisan  goes  out  against  the  enemy.  His 
head-dress  is  adorned  with  a  crest  of  the  war-eagle's 
feathers,  rising  in  a  waving  ridue  above  his  brow,  and 
sweeping  far  behind  him.  His  round  white  shield  hangs 
at  his  breast,  with  feathers  radiating  from  tlu;  centre  like 
a  star.  His  (piiver  is  at  his  back  ;  his  tall  lance  in  liis 
hand,  the  iron  ])oint  Hashing  against  the  deidining  sun, 
while  the  long  scalp-locks  of  his  enemies  flutter  from  the 
shaft.  Thus,  gorgeous  as  a  champion  in  jtanoply,  he  rides 
round  and  round  within  the  great  circle  of  lodges,  bahinc- 
ing  with  a  graceful  buoyancy  to  the  fi'ce  movements  of  his 
war-h(»rse,  while  with  a  sedate  brow  he  sings  his  song  to 
the  (li'cat  Spirit.  Young  rival  warriors  look  askance  at 
liim  ;  vermilion-cheeked  girls  gaze  in  admiration  ;  boys 
whoop  and  scream  in  a  thrill  of  delight,  and  old  women 
yell  forth  his  name  and  i)roclaim  his  praises  from  lodge 
to  lodge. 

Mahto-Ta tonka  was  the  l)est  of  all  our  Indian  friends. 
Hour  after  hour,  and  day  after  day,  when  swarms  of  sav- 
ages of  every  age,  sex,  and  degree  beset  our  camp,  he 
would  lie  in  our  tent,  his  lynx-eye  ever  oj)en  to  guard  our 
property  from  i)illage. 

The  Whirlwind  invited  us  one  day  to  his  lodge.  The 
feast  was  finished  and  the  ])ipc  liegan  to  circulate.  It 
was  a  I'emarkably  large  and  line  one,  and  I  expressed 
admiration  of  it. 

^  If  the  Meneaska  likes  the  pipe,"  asked  The  Whirlwind, 
"  why  does  he  not  keep  it  ?  " 


I      !  -ii 


SCENES    AT    THE    CAMP. 


151 


Sucli  a  pipe  niuoiig  the  Ogillallali  is  valued  at  the  {)rico 
of  a  horse.  The  liil't  seemed  woi'tliy  of  a  eliiertain  and  a 
w airior ;  but  The  Wliirlwiiid's  generosity  rose  t(j  no  sueh 
piU'h.  lie  gave  nie  the  pipe,  eonlidently  expecting  that 
1  in  return  would  make  him  a  present  ol'  etpuil  or  supe- 
rior vahie.  Tliis  is  tlie  impHed  condition  ot"  every  gilt 
among  the  Indians,  and  shtjuld  it  not  he  coni])lied  witli, 
the  jiiesent  is  usually  reclaimed.  So  1  arranged  ujjon  a 
gaudy  calico  haudkerchiet'  an  assortment  of  vermilion, 
tol)acco,  kni\es,  and  gunj)0\vdcr,  and  sunnnoning  tlic 
ehief  to  camp,  assui'cd  him  of  my  friendship,  and  begged 
his  acc('i)tance  of  a  slight  token  of  it.  lijaculating 
Hull'!  /low!  lie  folded  up  the  offerings  and  withdrew  to 
his  lodge. 

Late  one  afternoon  a  i)arty  of  Indians  on  horseback 
came  suddenly  in  sight  IVom  behind  some  clumps  of 
hushes  that  lined  the  bank  of  the  stream,  leading  with 
tlicm  a  nude,  on  whose  back  was  a  wretched  negro,  sus- 
tained in  his  seat  by  the  high  i)ommel  and  cantle  of  the 
hulian  saddle.  His  cheeks  were  shrunken  in  the  hollow 
of  his  jaws  ;  his  eyes  were  unnaturally  dilated,  and  his 
li[)S  shrivelled  and  drawn  back  from  his  teeth  like  those 
I  if  a  corpse.  When  they  brought  him  before  our  tent, 
and  lifted  him  from  the  saddle,  he  could  not  walk  or 
stand,  but  crawled  a  short  distance,  and  with  a  look  of 
utter  miseiy  sat  down  on  the  grass.  All  the  children 
and  women  came  })Ouring  out  of  the  lodges,  and  with 
screams  and  cries  made  a  circle  al)out  him,  while  he  sal. 
supporting  himself  with  his  hands,  and  looking  from  sid(>, 
to  side  with  a  vacant  stare.  The  wretch  was  starving  to 
death.  For  thirty-three  days  he  had  wandered  alone  on 
llie  prairie,  without  weai)on  of  any  kind  ;  without  shoes, 
moccasins,  or  any  other  clothing  than  an  old  jacket  and 
trousci's  ;  without  intelligence  to  guide  his  course,  or  any 


ili 

1 

\l. 
1'' 

III 

if 

1 

'*t 

si 

^.,.^^t^   k.  ^U' 


152 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


Ill' 


knowlcdtro  of  llic  productions  of  tlic  i)rairio.  All  this 
time  lie  liiul  subsistcfj  on  crickets  iiiid  lizards,  wild 
onions,  and  three  ouus  which  he  found   in  the  nest  of  a 


pi 


aii'ie-dove.       lie   had    not    seen    a    hiinian   hein 


lie- 

Avildered  in  the  houndless.  hopeless  desert,  that  stretcluMl 
around  him.  lu;  had  walked  on  in  despair,  till  he  could 
walk  no  longer,  and  then  crawleil  on  his  knees,  till  the 
hone  was  laid  hare,  lie  (diosc  the  niuht  for  t  rave  Hi  1112;, 
Ivinu'  down  hy  dav  to  sleep  in  the  u'lariiiu'  sun,  always 
dreaminu',  as  he  said,  of  the  hrotli  and  corn-cake  he  used 
to  eat  under  his  old  master's  shed  in  3Iissouri.  Every 
man  in  the  eam[»,  liolh  whiter  and  red.  was  astonishetl  at 
his  escape  not  only  from  starvation  hut  from  the  tiriz/dy 
hears,  which  ahound  in  that  neiuhljorhood,  and  the  wolves 
wliiidi  howled  around  him  every  niuht. 

Reynal  receirnized  him  the  moment  the  Indians  hrought 
him  in.  He  had  run  awav  from  his  master  alxiut  a  vear 
before  and  Joined  the  party  of  Ricliard,  who  was  then 
leavinti'  the  frontier  for  the  mountains,  lie  had  lived 
with  Kichard  until,  at  the  end  of  Mav.  he  with  Revnal 


and  sevei'al  other  men  went  out  in  search  oi'  some  str 
horses,  when  he  was  sepai'ated  from  the  rest  in  a  stor 


m. 


and  had  never  heen  heard  of  to  this  time, 


jiowiim 


us 


inexperience  and  helplessness,  no  one  dreamed  that  he 
could  still  he  livinu'.  The  Indians  had  found  him  lying 
exhausted  on  llu'  i^round. 


As  he   sat  there,  with   the   Indians  gazing  silently  ( 


)n 


him.  his  hau'ti'ai'd  face  and  ulazed  eve  were  disuustinji'  to 
look  upon,  heslauriers  made  him  a  howl  of  griud,  Ijut 
he  sullered  it  to  remain  untasted  before  him.  At  length 
he  languidly  raised  the  spoon  to  his  lips;  again  he  did 
so,  and  again  ;  and  then  his  apjietite  seemed  suddenly 
inflamed  into  madness,  for  he  seized  the  bowl,  swallowed 
all  its  contents  in  a  few  seconds,  and  eagerly  demanded 


1   ■]*,!. 


SCKNES     AT    THE    CAMP. 


153 


mcfit.  This  we  I'ofuscd,  tclliiiu'  liini  to  wait,  until  iiioni- 
inu' ;  l)ut  lie  bcu'ii'ctl  so  cuu'ci'lv  that  we  uave  liiiii  a  siiuiU 
piece,  which  he  devoui-cd,  tearing  it  like  a  doo-.  He  said 
lie  uitist  have  more.  We  told  him  that  his  lifii'  was  iii 
danger  if  he  ate  so  inmiudcratcdy  at  first,  lie  assented, 
and  said  he  knew  he  was  a  fool  to  do  so,  hut  he  nuist 
have  meat.  This  we  absolutely  refused,  to  the  great 
indignation  of  the  senseless  s(|naws.  who.  when  we  were 
not  watehinijr  him,  would  slvlv  lirinu'  drieil  meat  and 
pommes  b/auches,  and  i)laec  them  on  the  gi'ound  by  his 
side.  Still  this  was  not  enough  for  him.  When  it  grew 
dark  he  contrived  to  ereej)  away  between  tlie  legs  of  the 
horses  and  crawd  over  to  the  Indian  camp.  Here  ]\v  fed 
to  his  heart's  content,  and  was  brought  bai'k  again  in  the 
morning,  when  Gingras,  the  traj)iier,  put  him  on  horse- 
back and  carried  him  to  the  fort.  Fie  managed  to 
survive  the  effects  of  his  greediness.  Though  slightly 
deranged  when  we  left  this  part  of  the  country,  he  was 
otherwise  in  tolerable  health,  and  expressed  his  firm  con- 
viction that  nothing  could  ever  kill  him. 

When  the  sun  was  yet  an  hour  high,  it  was  a  gay 
scene  in  the  village.  The  Avarriors  stalked  sedately 
among  the  lodges,  or  along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  or 
walked  out  to  visit  the  bands  of  horses  that  were  feeding 
over  the  prairie.  Half  the  population  deserted  the  close 
and  heated  lodges  and  betook  themselves  to  the  water; 
and  here  vou  miu'ht  sec  bovs  and  girls,  and  vounii'  S(|uaws, 
splashing,  swimming,  and  diving,  beneath  the  afternoon 
sun,  with  merry  screams  and  laughter.  Ihit  when  the 
sun  was  resting  above  the  broken  jteaks.  and  the  pui'ple 
mountains  threw' their  shadows  for  miles  over  the  i)i"airie  ; 
when  our  old  tree  basked  peacefully  in  the  horizontal 
rays,  and  the  swelling  ])lains  and  scattered  groves  were 
softened  into  a  tran(iuil  beauty, —  then  the  scene  around 


m 


';!  i 


n 


154 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I'  II' 


,i     .1 


I 


our  lent  was  wortliy  of  a  Salvator.  Savage  figiu'os,  with 
(luivci's  at  tliL'ir  backs,  and  guns,  lances,  or  tonialiawks 
in  their  liauds,  sut  on  horseback,  motionless  as  statues, 
their  arms  crossed  on  their  breasts  and  their  eves  lixed 
in  a  steady  vuiwavering  gaze  upon  us.  Others  stood 
erect,  wi'appcd  from  head  to  loot  in  their  h)ng  white 
I'olies  oC  bul'I'alo-hide.  Others  sat  together  on  the  grass, 
holding  tlu'ii"  sluiggy  liorses  by  a  rope,  with  tb.eir  dark 
busts  exposed  to  view  as  they  suflered  their  rolics  to  I'all 
from  tiicir  shoulders.  Others  again  stood  carelessly  among 
the  throng,  with  nothing  to  conceal  the  matchless  symme- 
try ol'  their  I'orms.  Thei'C  was  one  in  particulai,  a  I'ero- 
cious  I'ellow,  named  The  Mad  Woll",  who,  with  the  bow  in 
his  hand  and  the  ([uiver  at  his  back,  nught  have  seemed, 
but  for  his  lace,  the  Pythian  Apollo  himsell'.  Such  a 
figure  rose  liel'ore  the  imagination  of  West,  when  on  lirst 
seeing  the  Belvedere  in  the  Vatican,  he  exclaimed,  "  By 
God,  a  ^h)ha\vk  !  " 

When  the  prairie  grew  dark,  the  horses  were  driven  in 
and  secured  near  the  camp,  and  the  ci'owd  began  to  melt 
away.  Fires  gleamed  around,  duskily  revealing  the  rough 
trajipers  and  the  graceful  Indians.  One  of  the  families 
near  us  was  always  gathered  about  a  bright  lire  that 
lighted  up  the  interior  of  their  lodge.  AVithered,  witch- 
like hags  flitted  around  the  blaze  ;  and  here  for  hour  after 
hour  sat  a  circle  of  children  and  young  girls,  laugliing 
and  talking,  their  round  merry  faces  glowing  in  the  ruddy 
light.  We  could  hear  the  monotonous  notes  of  the  drum 
from  the  Indian  cam)),  with  the  chant  of  the  war-song, 
deadened  in  the  distance,  and  the  long  chorus  of  (}uaver- 
iug  yi'Us,  where  the  war-dance  was  going  on  in  the 
largest  lodge.  For  several  nights,  too,  we  heard  wild  and 
mournful  cries,  rising  and  dying  awa^;  like  the  melan- 
choly voice  of  a  wolf.     They  came  from  the  sisters  and 


I      I  •:, 


SCENES    AT    THE    CAMP. 


loj 


female  relatives  oi'  Malito-Tatoiika,  \\\u)  were  gashing 
their  limbs  with  knives,  ami  hevvailiiiji,"  the  death  ul' 
Ifciirv  Chatillon's  S([ua\v.  '1Mh3  hour  would  orow  late 
het'oi'e  all  W(  !it  to  rest  iu  (jur  cam|).  Then,  whiK;  the 
embers  of  the  lii'es  u'hnved  dimly,  the  men  lay  stretehed 
in  their  l)hinkets  on  the;  ground,  and  nothing  could  bo 
heai'd  but  the  restless  motions  ol"  the  crowded  horses. 

i  recall  these  scenes  with  a  mixed  leeliiig  (d"  pleasure 
and  })ain.  At  this  time,  1  was  so  reduced  \>y  illness  tliat 
i  could  seldom  walk  without  reeling  like  a  druid;en  man, 
and  when  1  rose  Irom  my  seat  upon  the  ground  liie  luud- 
sca])e  snddenly  grew  dim  bei'ore  my  eyes,  \\u',  trees  and 
lodges  seemed  to  sway  to  and  lio,  and  the  prairi'i  to  rise 
and  fall  like  the  swells  oi'  the  ocean.  Such  a  state  of 
things  is  not  enviable  anywhere.  In  a  country  whei-e  a 
man's  life  may  at  any  moment  depend  on  tin;  st length  oi' 
his  arm,  or  it  may  l)c  on  the  activity  of  his  legs,  it  is 
more  ))artieularly  ineonvenient.  Nor  is  sleeping  on  damp 
ground,  with  an  occasional  drenching  IVom  a  shower,  very 
beneficial  in  such  eases.  1  sometimes  sullered  tlu;  ex- 
tremity of  exhaustion,  and  was  in  a  tolerably  fair  way 
of  atoning  for  my  love  of  the  prairie,  by  resting  there 
for  ever. 

1  tried  repose  and  a  very  sparing  diet.  For  a  long 
time,  with  exemj)lary  patience,  1  lounged  about  the  camp, 
or  at  the  utmost  staggered  over  to  the  Indian  villnge,and 
walkeil  faint  and  dizzy  among  the  lodges.  It  would  not 
do  ;  and  i  lietliought  me  of  starvation.  During  live  days 
I  sustained  life  on  one  small  biscuit  a  diiy.  At  tin;  end 
of  that  time  1  was  weaker  than  before,  l)nt  the  disoi-der 
seemed  shaken  in  its  stronghold,  and  very  gradually  1 
began  to  rcsmne  a  less  rigid  diet. 

I  used  to  lie  languid  and  dreamy  before  our  tent,  mus- 
ing on  the  past  and  the  future,  and  when  m(jst  overcome 


i  t; 


I  III 


ir 


■■ihiaatui];  j2^  ^■■■^-ii 


150 


TKl'    OIUXJON     TRAIL. 


willi  liissiliulo,  my  eyes  turned  always  towards  tlic  distant 
Jilaclc  Hills,  'riu'i'c  is  a  spirit  dl"  cnciLiy  in  mountains, 
and  tliey  impart  it;  to  all  who  aopi-oacli  them.  .Vt  that 
time  1  did  not  know  how  many  dai'k  snpcfstitions  and 
gloomy  l('jj;('nds  are  associated  with  the  l>laek  Hills  in  the 
M'inds  (»r  the  Indians,  '  't  I  '"  ''  a>  ea^vr  desire  to  pene- 
trate their  hi«  !(Mi  io.>  .■.  aii  i  explore  the  chasms 
and  ]»rccii)ices,  black  ton*  u!.-  ud  silent  forests  that  1 
fancied  were  concealed  there. 


Jill 


;'') 


V 


.'■*■;:■ 


1. 


CIIAlTFJi   XII. 


II,L-H('K, 


m 


A 


CAXAI)1A\  cnino  fi-oiii  Fort  Laraniio,  und  hroiiulit 
!i  curious  ])i('('('  of  iiit('lli;j.('ucc.  A  trnpjicr,  IVcsli 
from  the  luounliiius,  had  liccoiuc  cnuiiioiircd  ol' a  Missouri 
damsel  licloniiinu'  to  ;i  Tamil v  wlio  vvitli  other  omiiiTaiits 
liad  hceu  for  some  (hiys  encamped  in  the  ncinhhorhood  of 
th  fort.  If  bravery  l)e  the  most  jjoteut  charm  to  win  thi 
favor  of  tlie  fair,  then  no  wooer  couhl  l)e  mor(!  irresistildc 
tlian  a  Rocky  Mountain  tra]>|)(M'.  Intlie  pi'esent  instance, 
Ihe  suit  was  not  urueil  in  vain.  The  lovers  concerted  a 
scheme,  which  they  ])rocce(led  to  cari-y  into  elTect  with  all 
])ossil)lc  despatch.  The  emi^'rant  i)arty  left  the  foi't,  and 
on  the  next  niuht  hut  one  cncam})ed  as  usual,  and  |»laccd 
a  u'uard.  A  little  after  midniuht,  the  enamoured  trapper 
drew  near,  mounted  on  a  strong  liorse,  and  leading  an- 
other l)y  the  liridle.  Fastening  both  animals  to  a  ti'ee,he 
stealthily  moved  towards  the  wagons,  as  if  he  were  aj)- 
proaching  a  band  of  bulfalo.  Eluding  the  vigilance  of  the 
guard,  who  were  probably  half  asleep,  he  met  his  mistress 
by  app(»intment  at  the  outskirts  of  the  camp,  mounted 
her  on  Ins  spare  horse,  and  made  olf  with  her  through 
the  darkness.  The  sccjuel  of  the  adventure  did  not  reacli 
our  ears,  and  we  never  leaiMieil  how  the  imprudent  fail" 
one  liked  an  Indian  lodge  for  a  dwelling,  and  a  reckless 
trapper  for  a  bridegi'oom. 

At  lenLi'th  The  Whirlwind  and  his  warriors  determined 


m. 


vW 


:>  iM.m 


u  |.1 


m 


V)H 


TIIK    ORKGON    TRAIL. 


r  I 


to  move.  ''I'licy  had  rosolvcd  iiflcr  iill  lln'ir  |)i'<'|)araf ions 
n(»(  t(»  </()  1(»  tlic  i('ii(l('/\()iis  at  L;i  l)()iit(''s  ciitMi),  liiit  to 
))ass  Ihi'ouiili  the  Illack  Hills  and  spend  a  Irw  weeks  in 
Innitinu"  tlie  linllal')  on  the  oilier  sid<'.  nntil  they  had  killed 
cnonLili  to  Inrnish  tlieiii  with  a  stock  of  piovisions  and 
with  hides  to  nndvc  their  lodj^'cs  for  the  next  season. 
This  done,  they  wero  t(»  send  ont  a  small  independent 
"war-party  auiunst  the  enemy.  Their  (inal  determination 
j)la('ed  ns  in  some  emliari'assmcnt.  Shonld  we  go  to  Fia 
IJonte's  camp,  it  was  not  inijiossiiile  that  the  other  \  ilhiu'cs 
wonhl  prove  as  vacillatinir  as  The  Whirlwind's,  and  that  no 
assemhly  wliatever  wonld  take  place.  Onr  old  companion 
Reynal  had  conceived  a  likinjr  for  ns,  or  rather  for  onr  l»is- 
cnit  and  colTee.  and  for  the  occasional  small  presents  which 
wc  made  him.  lie  was  very  anxlons  that  we  slionld  <ro 
with  the  vilhiL^e  wliicli  lie  himself  inteiide(l  to  follow. 
Jle  was  cei'tain  that  no  Indians  wonld  meet  at  the  rendez- 


vous, and  said,  moreover,  that  it  wonld  he  easv  to  conv 


("Y 


onr  cart  and  ha.ii'u'aire  throiiLrh  the  lUack  Hills.  \\v  knew, 
liowever,  nothinjj;  of  the  matter.  Neither  he  iKirany  white 
man  with  us  had  ever  seen  the  dinicnlt  and  oliscurc  defiles 
thronuh  which  the  Indians  intended  to  make  their  way.  I 
passed  them  afterwards,  and  had  much  ado  to  foi'C(^  my  dis- 
tressed hoi'se  {iloii<rtlie  narrow  ravines,  and  throniiludiasnis 
where  davliuht  conld  scarcclv  iicnetrate.  Onr  cart  niiulit 
as  easily  have  been  driven  over  the  summit  of  Pike's 
Peak.  Ihit  of  this  w(>  were  iiiiiorant ;  and  in  view  of  the 
difTiculties  and  uncertainties  df  an  attemj»t  to  visit  the 
rendezvous,  we  recalled  the  old  proverh,  ahont  "■  A  bird 
in  the  hand."'  and  decided  to  follow  the  village. 

Both  camj)s,  the  Indians'  and  our  own.  broke  up  on  the 
morning  of  the  first  of  July.  I  was  so  weak  that  the  aid 
of  a  spoonful  of  whiskey,  swallowed  at  short  intervals, 
alone  enabled  me  to  sit  my  horse  through  the  short  jour- 


-If 


ILL-LLTK. 


l.-il) 


ncy 

mill' 


of  lliiil  (Ifiv.     For  li!iir  .'I   mile  licforo  us  .'iiid  liiiU'  a 


iiiairic    was  covered 


ar  am 


1  wi.l 


e  W 


the  moving'  llinmu'  of  savauvs.  'I'Im>  haiMcii,  lirokeii  |  la  n 
stretehcil  away  to  the  riulil  and  left,  ami  far  in  front  ri»H! 
the  preeipitous  ridu'c  of  the  VA-.wk  Hills.  We  |in.slied 
I'orward  to  the  head  of  the  scattered  eohuuii,  passin'j," 
l»iirdene(|  fr(ilnc(ni.i\  heavily  laden  pack-horses,  waunt  old 
women  on  foot.  ;i!iy  yoniiL''  s(piaws  on  hoi'sehatdc,  restless 
children  running'  amoni^'  the  crowd.  r)ld  men  s  idinu' alonii; 
in  their  white  iaiffalo-rohes,  and  <i'roups  of  youn,n'  warriors 
moimteil  on  their  l)esf  horses.  Henry  ('hatillon.  lookini;' 
backward  over  the  distant  |H'aii-ie,  ex(daime(l  suddenly 
that  a  horseman  was  approaching,  and  in  truth  we  could 
Just  discern  u  small  Mack  speck  slowly  moNimi'  over  the 
face  of  a  distant  swell,  like  a  fly  creeping  on  a  wall.  It 
rapidly  grow  larger  as  it  approached. 


"  White  man,   1  l/lieve, 


salt 


1  II 


enrv 


look  how  he 


ride.  Indian  never  ride  tliat  way.  Yes;  he  got  rifle  on 
the  saddle  hcfore  him." 

The  hoi'seman  disa})i)eured  in  a  hollow  of  the  j»rairie, 
hut  wo  soon  saw  him  again,  and  as  he  came  I'idii  ;••  at  a 
galloj)  towards  us  through  the  crowd  of  Indians,  his  long 
liair  streaming  in  the  wind  behind  him,  we  recognized  tin; 
ruddy  face  and  old  buckskin  frock  of  Gingi-as  the  trapper. 
He  was  just  arrived  from  Fort  Laramie,  and  said  he  had 
a  message  for  us.  A  trader  named  J>ison(>tte,  one  of 
Henry's  fiionds,  had  lately  come  from  the  sottlenuMits, 
Jind  inteiul(Ml  to  go  with  a  ]iarty  of  men  to  I^a  IJonttVs 
camp,  whore,  as  (Jingras  assured   us,  ten  or  twelve  vil- 

onotte 

desired  that  wo  would  cross  over  and  meet  him  thei<', 
and  jiromised  that  his  men  should  )(rot(>ct  oui-  horses  and 
baggage  while  we  went  among  the  Indians.  Shaw  and  1 
stopj)od  our  horses,  held  a  council,  and  in  an  (^vil  hour 
resolved  to  go. 


lages  of   Imlians   would  certainly   assemble 


Bis 


li 


W 


IGO 


TIIK    ()UL(J()N    TIIAIL. 


V     :'l 


I    '  !   ■;_     I 


For  lli«'  rest  of  tliiit  (liiy  our  I'oiirso  ami  llnil  of  tlio 
JiuUans  Wits  llic  auiuc.  In  less  timii  an  lioiii-  we  caiia;  to 
wlicrc  the  lii^ili  ItMiTcii  |»i;iiri('  h-riniiiatecl,  .sinking  down 
lil>i*n|)lly  in  steep  ilescent  ;  and  standinji'  on  tla;  ver^c  \V(5 
Haw  lielow  us  a  ^'reat  meadow.  Lar;inii«i  Creek  lionndcd  it 
on  the  left,  sweepinu"  alon;:,"  in  the  shiidow  of  the  heij^iits, 
and  iiassinuwith  its  shallow  and  ni[»i<l  cniTent  jnst  lieneath 
us.  We  silt  on  horsehaek,  waitin<i'  and  looking"  on,  while 
the  whole  savai-c!  array  went  poni'ini;'  hy,  liinryiii,^"  down 
the  declivity  and  spivadin^'  over  the  nx  adow  helow.  In 
a  few  moments  the  plain  was  swarming'  with  the  movini^ 
mnltilnde,  some  jnst  visihie,  like  specks  in  the  distiinee, 
others  still  hasteninj;'  hy  itnd  fording'  the  stri'iim  in  hnstio 
and  eonfnsion.  On  the  ed^'e  of  tlu!  heights  sat  a  ^ronp 
of  the  elde-r  warriors,  u'ravely  smoking'  and  lookinj:;  with 
unmoved  faces  on  the  wild  and  strikinu,'  spectacle. 

rp  went  the  lodj^es  in  a  ciride  on  tlie  margin  of  the 
stream.  For  the  sake  of  (piict  we  jtitehed  onr  tent  among 
some  trees  half  a  mile  distant.  \ii  thealh'riioon  we  wer(! 
in  the  villau'e.  The  day  was  a  uloi'ious  one,  and  the  whole 
camp  seemed  lively  and  animated  in  sympathy.  (Jronps 
of  children  and  yonnu'  ,Liii'ls  were  lauuhiiiu'  uayly  outside 
the  lodu'cs.  The  shields,  the  lances,  and  the  hows  were 
renioNcd  IVom  the  tall  tripods  on  which  they  usually  hun 
before  the  dwellinu's  of  their  owners.     The  warriors  were 


«» 


moi 


iiitinu'  their  horses,  and  one   hv  one  ridiu";  a 


w 


ay  over 


the  prairie  toward  the  nei^hhoring  hills. 

Shaw  and  1  sat  o\\  the  grass  near  the  lodge  of  Reynal. 
An  old   woman,  with   true   Indian  hosj)itality,  i)rought  a 


bowl    of    boiled   Ncnison    and    olaccd    it    belbre    u^ 


AV 


anmscMl  ourselves  with  watching  a  few  young  S(iuaws  who 
\vere  i)laying  together  and  t-hasing  each  other  in  and  out 


of  oi 


U!  ot   the 


lodu'es. 


Middeidv  the  wild  vcdl  of  the  war- 


whooj)  came  pealing  from  the  hills.     A  crowd  of  horisc- 


'li^' 


iii' 


111 


i'vual. 

I 'J  111    IV 

Is  who 

III  out 
I'  wtu- 
Ihorse- 


II.I.-I.ICK. 


IGl 


iiK'ii  ii|i|H'!irc(l.  ni^liiii'^  down  their  sides,  iiiid  riding'  iit  lull 
speed  (uuards  the  villiiu'e,  ejieh  wiu'riitr's  h)i);;'  liiiir  liyiii.i; 
heliiiid  liiiii  ill  llio  wind  liko  a  ship's  streumer.  As  lliey 
np|>n>!li  lieil,  tlic  enih'-.ised  (hl'oilj^  llSSJIlled  il  re;:tdar  order, 
niid  eMleriiiiL''  (wo  liy  two,  they  cirehMl  round  tho  iireti  lit 
full  ^'iillop.  eiieli  warrior  sinuiii^'  his  war-son^  as  he  rode. 
Some  ot"  their  dresses  were  superli.  They  wore  crests 
of  feathers,  and  <doso  tuuies  of  antelope  skins,  frin^'e(l 
with  the  sealp-loeivs  of  tluMi'  enemies;  many  of  their 
shields,  too,  fluttered  with  the  wiir-eau'le's  feathers.  All 
had  hows  and  arrows  at  their  hacks;  some  carrie(|  lon>^ 
lances,  and  a  few  were  armed  with  guns.  The  Whito 
Shield,  their  pai'tisan,  rode  in  uoi-geons  attire  at  their 
head,  mounted  on  a  hlack-and-white  hoise.  Mahto- 
Tatonka  and  his  hrothers  took  no  part  in  this  pai'ade, 
for  they  were  in  m(nirnin<i'  for  their  sister,  and  were  all 
sitting'  in  their  lodu(>s,  their  hodies  liedauhed  from  head  to 
loot  with  white  (day,  and  a  lock  of  hair  cut  fi'oni  the  foi'c- 
heail  of  each. 

The  warriors  rode  three  times  round  the  village;  and 
as  cjich  noted  ehampion  passed,  the  old  women  would 
scream  out  his  name,  to  honor  his  hravery,  and  excite  tho 
cnuilation  of  the  younger  warriors.  Little  ni'chins,  not 
two  years  old,  followed  the  warlike  ])ageant  with  glitter- 
ing eyes,  and  gazed  with  eager  admiration  at  the  heroes 
of  their  t lihc. 

The  procession  rode  out  of  the  village  as  it  liad  entered 
it.  and  in  half  an  li..nr  all  the  warriors  had  returned 
again,  dropping  quietly  iji,  singly  or  in  parties  of  two  or 
three. 

The  parade  over,  wc  wTrc  entertained  Avith  an  episode 

of  Indian  domestic  life.     A  vicious-looking  squaw,  heside 

herself  with  rage,  was  berating  her  sjtousc,  who,  with  a 

look  uf  total  unconcern,  sat  crossdejrucd  in  the  middle  of 

11 


m 


I 


II  i 


fll 


-eo^ 


t      :  i!  '   ;  I  ■ 


i':  :J- 


162 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


Ill  ,i\ 


111 


Ml 


li 


liis  1()(1,L^(\  siiiokinir  lus  pipe  in  silence.  At  leiiti'tli.  niiiil- 
deiied  l>y  his  coolness,  slie  made  a  rnsh  id,  the  l()d<i'e,  sci/.('(l 
tlie  })oles  whieli  snitjioi'lcd  if,  and  1nt:-,u'ed  ut  llieni.  one 
after  tlie  other,  till  she  lironulit  down  the  whole  strneture, 
])olcs,  hides,  and  all,  elatterinu'  on  his  head,  bnryinu'  him 
in  ^.he  wi'eek  of  his  hahitation.  lie  pushed  aside  the 
liides  with  his  liand,  and  presently  his  head  emerged,  like 
a  turtle's  from  its  shell.  Still  he  sat  smoking  sedately  as 
before,  a  wieked  glitter  in  his  eyes  alone  betraying  the 
])ent-uj»  storm  within.  The  s([uaw,  scolding  all  the  while, 
proceeded  to  saddle  her  horse,  bestride  him,  and  canter 
out  of  the  camp,  intending,  as  it  seemed,  to  return  to  her 
father's  lodge,  wherever  that  might  be.  The  warrior,  who 
had  not  deigned  even  to  look  at  licr,  now  coolly  arose, 
disengaged  himself  from  the  ruins,  tied  a  cord  of  hair  by 
way  of  bridle  round  the  jaw  of  his  buffalo-horse,  broke  a 
stout  cudgel,  about  four  feet  long,  from  the  but-end  of  a 
lodge-])ole,  mounted,  and  galloped  majestically  over  the 
f»rairie  to  discipline  his  offending  helpmeet. 

As  the  sun  rose  next  moi-ning  we  hxjked  across  the 
meadov,  and  coidd  see  the  lodges  levelled  and  the  Indians 
gath;.-ring  together  in  preparation  to  leave  the  camp. 
Their  course  lay  to  the  westward.  We  turned  towards 
the  north  with  our  three  men,  the  four  trappers  following 
us,  with  the  Indian  fannlv  of  ^Forin.  We  travelled  until 
night,  and  encamped  among  some  trees  by  the  side  of  a 
little  brook,  where  during  the  whole  of  the  next  day  we 
lay  waiting  for  IJisonette  ;  but  no  Bisonette  ajipeared. 
Here  two  of  our  trap})er  friends  left  us,  and  set  out  I'or 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  On  the  secoml  morning,  despair- 
ing of  l)isonette's  arrival,  we  resumed  our  journey, 
traversing  a  forlorn  and  dreary  monotony  of  sun-scorched 
l)l.ains,  where  no  living  thing  ai)i)eared  save  here  and 
there  an  antelope  flying  before  us  like  the  wind.     When 


jdirt- 


ILL-LUCK. 


1  Cu] 


noon  cnnio  wo  saw  nn  nnwontod  and  wclcoinc  siulil  :  a 
line  ^Towtli  of  trees,  marking"  tlic  eoursc  of  a  little 
stream  eallecl  ITorseNlioe  Creek.  'I'hey  stood  wide  asun- 
der, spreading  a  tliiek  eano])}'  of  leaves  al)o\('  a  surl'aec 
(if  rieh,  tall  grass.  The  sti-eani  ran  swiftly,  as  idcar  as 
crystal,  through  the  hosoni  of  the  wood,  spai-kling  over 
its  lied  of  whitt!  sand,  and  darkeidng  again  a;^  it  entered 
a  deep  cavern  of  foliage.  1  was  thoroughly  exhausted, 
and  Hung  myself  on  the  ground,  scarcely  aide  to  move. 

In  the  morning,  as  glorious  a  sun  rose  upon  us  as  ever 
animated  that  wilderness.  We  advanced,  and  soon  were 
surrounded  l»y  tall  hare  hills,  overspread  from  top  to  hot- 
tom  with  prickly-pears  and  other  cacti,  that  seemed  like 
clinii'intr  I'eutiles.  A  plain,  flat  and  hard,  with  scarcelv 
the  vestige  of  grass,  lay  heforc  us,  and  a  line  of  tall  mis- 
shapen trees  hounded  the  onward  \'w\v.  There  was  no 
sight  or  sound  of  man  or  beast,  or  any  liviuu'  thing, 
although  behind  those  trees  was  the  h)ng-looke(l-for  jilace 
of  rendezvous,  where  we  hoped  to  have  found  the  Indians 
conu'reo-ated  bv  thousands.  We  looked  and  listened  anx- 
iously.  AVe  imshed  forward  with  onr  best  speed,  and 
forced  onr  horses  through  the  trees.  There  were  co))ses 
of  some  extent  bevond,  with  a  scant v  stream  creeping 
among  them;  and  as  wc  pressed  through  the  yielding 
liranchcs,  deer  sprang  up  to  the  right  and  left.  At  length 
we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  prairie  beyond,  emerged  upc»n 
it,  and  saw,  not  a  plain  covered  with  encampments  and 
swarming  with  life,  but  avast  unbroken  desert  stret(diing 
away  before  us  league  upon  league,  without  hush  or  tree, 
or  anv  thing  that  had  life.  Wc  drew  rein  and  uave  to  the 
winds  our  sentiments  concerning  the  whole  alioii'jinal 
race  of  America.  Our  journey  was  worse  than  vain. 
For  myself.  I  was  vexed  beyond  measure  ;  as  I  w(dl  knew 
that  a  slight  aggravation  of   my  disorder  wovdd   render 


;■  I' 


III 


;:  i 


-J——     ^  "•  'l^^l^ 


■'■*■'' -■•""'■•lltUffil'T'l — 


4 


164 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


if' 


m 


tills  false  stop  iiTCvocf\l)lc,  and  make  it  im))Osslblc  to  ac- 
conijilish  erfeclually  the  ulijcct  wliieli  had  led  me  an  ardu- 
ous journey  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  miles. 

And  where  were  the  Indians?  They  were  mustered 
in  great  numbers  at  a  sjMjt  about  twenty  miles  distant, 
where  at  that  very  moment  they  were  daneing  their  war 
danees.  The  scarcity  of  butlalo  in  the  vicinity  of  La 
Bontc's  camp,  which  would  render  their  sup})ly  of  ju'ovi- 
sions  scanty  and  ])rccarious,  had  probably  j)revented  them 
from  assembling  there;  but  of  all  this  we  knew  nothing 
until  some  weeks  after. 

Shaw  lashed  his  horse  and  galloped  forward.  I,  though 
much  more  vexed  than  he,  was  not  strong  enough  to  adopt 
this  convenient  vent  to  my  feelings ;  so  I  followed  at  a 
quiet  pace.  We  rode  up  to  a  solitary  old  tree,  which 
seemed  the  only  place  tit  for  encampment.  Half  its 
branches  were  dead,  and  the  rest  were  so  scantily  fur- 
nished with  leaves  that  they  cast  but  a  meagre  and 
wretched  shade.  We  threw  down  our  saddles  in  the 
stri})  of  shadow  cast  by  the  old  twisted  trunk,  and  sat 
down  upon  them.  In  silent  indignation  we  remained 
smoking  for  an  hour  or  more,  shifting  our  saddles  with 
the  shifting  shadow,  for  the  sun  was  intolerably  hot. 


I  ,i;5.' 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


A 


r  last  wc  hud  reached  La  Buntc's  camp,  towards 
which  our  eyes  had  turned  so  long'.  Of  all  weary 
hiiurs,  those  that  passed  between  noon  antl  sunset  of  that 
day  may  hear  away  the  palm  of  exquisite  discomfort.  1 
lay  und(!r  the  tree  reflecting  on  wliat  course  'to  pursue, 
wiitching  the  shadows  which  seemed  never  to  move,  and 
M'hich  seemed  fixed  in.  the  si^y,  and  hoping 
to   see  the  men   and   horses  of  Bisonette 


the 


every 


sun 
moment 


eineru'ing  from  the  woods.  Shaw  and  Henry  had  ridden 
out  on  a  scouting  expedition,  and  did  not  return  till  the 
sun  was  setting.  There  was  notlung  very  cheering  in 
tlieir  faces  or  in  the  news  they  brought. 

'••  We  have  been  ten  miles  from  here,"  said  Shaw.  '"  We 
clinilied  tlie  higliest  ijutte  we  could  find,  and  could  not 
see  a  butfalo  or  an  Indian;  nothing  but  prairie  for  twenty 


inih's  ai 


ound 


us. 


Henry's  hors(3  was  disabled   bv  chim- 


lici'ing  u])  and  down  the  sides  of  ravines,  and  Sliaw's  was 
greatly  fatigued. 

Al'tt'r  sujiper  that  evening:,  as  we  sat  around  tlie  fire,  I 
]iroposed  to  Shaw  to  wait  one  (hiy  longer,  in  liopcs  of 
I!iM)iu'tle's  arrival,  and   if  lie   should  not   come,  to  send 


Desl; 


uiriers  w 


111  the  cart  and  baii'u'aii'e  1 


lacK 


to  Foit  Lara- 


mie, while  we  ourselves  loll  )wed  The  Whirlwind's  village, 
and  attempted  to  overtake  't  as  it  passed  the  mountains. 
Shaw,  not  having  tlie  samj  motive  for  luintiim'  Indians 


ii 


1(){3 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


!      I 

.1* 


iluil  i  liiul.  was  averse  to  the  plan;  I  tlierefore  resolved 
to  jio  alone.  This  design  I  adopted  very  iniwilliiigiy,  for 
I  knew  tliat  in  the  jn'osent  state  of  my  health  (he  atlenipt 
wonld  lie  painful  and  hazardous.  1  hoped  that  Bisonette 
would  a|)p('ar  in  the  eourse  of  the  folhjwing  day,  and 
bring  us  son.e  information  by  whieh  to  direet  our  course, 
thus  enabling  me  to  accomplish  my  purpose  by  means 
less  object  i(.)nal)Ie. 

The  rifle  i)f  Henry  Chatillon  was  necessary  for  the  sub- 
sistence of  the  ])artyin  my  absence;  so  I  called  Raymond, 
and  ordered  him  to  pi'epare  to  set  (jut  with  me.  Ray- 
mond rolled  his  eyes  vacantly  alxjut,  Init  at  length,  having 
succeeded  in  grappling  with  the  idea,  he  withdrew  to  his 
bed  under  the  i;art.  He  was  a  lieavy-moulded  lei  low, 
with  a  bruad  face,  expressing  impenetrable  stupidity  and 
entire  self-confidence.  As  for  his  good  qualities,  he  had 
a  sort  of  stubborn  fidelity,  an  insensibility  to  danger,  and 
a  kind  of  instinct  or  sagacity,  which  sometimes  led  him 
I'ight,  where  better  heads  than  liis  were  at  a  loss.  ]]e- 
sides  this,  lie  knew  very  well  how  to  handle  a  rilic  and 
pi(;ket  a  horse. 

Through  the  following  day  the  sun  glared  down  upon 
us  with  a  pitiless,  penetrating  heat.  Tiie  distant  blue 
j>rairie  seemed  quivering  under  it.  The  lodge  of  our 
Indian  associates  parched  in  the  burning  rays,  and  our 
rifles,  as  they  leaned  against  the  tree,  "were  too  hot  for 
the  touch.  'J'herc  was  a  dead  silence  through  our  camp, 
broken  oidy  by  the  hum  of  gnats  and  mosquitoes.  Tiie 
men,  resting  their  foreheads  on  their  arms,  were  sleej)ing 
iiiii'or  the  cart.  The  Indians  kept  close  within  their 
lodge,  e\<'ept  ibe  newly-mari'ied  ])air,  who  were  seated 
tog"thef  .inder  an  awning  of  bufiiilo-robes,  and  the  old 
c/-i«jiti>jt ,  N>  !i:>,  with  hi;'i  hard,  cnniciated  face  and  gaunt 
i'il/>,  wx>  jiidieo  aloft  like  a  turkey-buzzard,  among  the 


HUNTING     INDIANS. 


107 


f 


)  his 
llow, 
,-  and 
}  bad 
',  and 
[  him 

r,o- 

aiid 


caiup, 
The 
•epiiiir 
Iheii- 
J  seated 
Ihc  old 
o-a\int 
lug  the 


(Iciul  liranclics  (»r  mu  old  t  ice,  loiistantly  on  the  lookout 
IbreiK-niies.     We  diuod,  aiul  liieu  Sluiw  saildlcd  his  horse. 

"  1  will  I'ide  hack,"  said  he,  ''  to  Horseshoe  Creek, 
and  sec  i!"  IJisoiu'lte  is  thei'C." 

'•  1  would  Lio  with  you,"  I  answered,  "hut  I  must 
reserve  all  the  strcniiMh  1  have." 

The  aricruoo!!  dragji'ed  away  at  hist.  I  occupied 
niyst'U'iii  cleaning  my  rille  and  pistols,  and  nuiking  other 
pir[(ara1ions  for  the  jonrney.  It  was  late  lielore  I 
1    luvself  in   mv  hlanket,  and   lav  <lo\vn   lor  the 


w  raiioei 


night,  with  my  head  on  my  saddle.  Shaw  had  not 
I'efunieil,  hut  this  gave  us  no  uneasiness,  for  we  sup[)oscd 
that  he  had  luUen  in  with  l>isonette,  and  was  spendinj^ 
the  night  with  him.  For  a  day  or  two  })ast  1  had  gained 
in  strength  and  health,  hut  ahout  midnight  an  attack  of 
pain  awoke  me,  and  for  some  hours  1  could  not  sleep. 
The  moon  ^\as  ([uivering  on  the  ))road  hi'cast  (jf  the 
Platte;  nothing  could  he  heard  except  those  low  inex- 
]ilicah!e  sounds,  like  whisperings  and  footsteps,  which  no 
one  who  has  spent  the  night  alone  amid  deserts  and 
I'oi'csts  will  he  at  a  loss  to  understand.  As  I  was  falling 
asleep,  a  familiar  voice,  shouting  from  the  distance, 
awoke  me  again.  A  rapid  step  ai)proached  the  camp, 
and  Shaw  on  foot,  with  his  gun  in  his  hand,  hastily 
entered. 


Where's  your  horse  ?  "  said  I,  raising  myself  on  my 


dhow 


Lost 


t  ?' 


sai( 


1  SI 


law. 


a 


Wl 


,ere  s 


Desl 


auriers 


9  " 


"  There,"  1    re[)lied,  pointing  to  a  confused  mass  of 
blankets  and  huffalo-rohes. 

Shaw  touched  them  with  the   butt  of  his  gun,  and   up 


siii'auu' 


our  faithful  Canadian. 


Come,   Deslauriers  ;    stir    u})   the  fire,  and    get    ni 


soniethinii'  to  eat 


'5 


O 


illiW 


1G8 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


m 


!       I 


"  Wliorc'.s  Bisoiicttc  ?  "  fiskcd  I. 


u 


The    Lord    knows;    there's    nobody    at    irorscslioe 


Crcok." 

Sliaw  lifid  ^'one  l)fick  to  tlio  spot  where  we  had  eiicani])cd 
two  days  l)elbre,  and  llnding  notliintr  tlicre  hut  the  ashes  of 
our  fires, he  had  tu'(l  his  horse  to  the  tree  whih-  he  hath'Ml 
in  the  stream.  Sonietliinu,'  startled  his  horse,',  whidi 
broke  loose,  and  lor  two  hours  Shaw  trie(l  in  vain  to 
cateh  him.     Sunset  approached,  and   it  was  twelve   miles 


t 


o  eamp. 


o   he  abandoned   tluj  attenuit,  and   set    out  on 


loot  to  join  us.     The  ,u"reater  part    of  his   perilous   and 


sol! 


dl 


iiarv   waiK    was  lu    uarKness 


11 


IS   moeeasins    were 


^volll  to  tatters  and  his  feet  severely  lacerated,  lie  sat, 
down  to  eat,  however,  the  usual  eipianimity  ol"  his  tem- 
i)er  not  at  all  disturbed  bv  his  misfortune,  and  mv  last 
recollection  belore  laUinu'  aslec})  was  oi"  Shaw,  seated 
crossdegged  before  the  fire,  smoking  his  pipe. 


tl 


When   I  awoke  a.;  lin  thei'e  was  a  fresh  damp  snudl  i 

Ith 


n 


le  air,  a  gray  twilight  involved  the  prairie,  and  above  its 
eastern  verge  was  a  streak  of  cold  red  sky.  J  called  to 
the  men.  and  in  a  moment  a  lire  was  blazing  bi'ightly  in 
the  dim  morning  light,  .;nd  breakfast  was  getting  ready. 
We  sat  down  together  on  the  grass,  to  the  last  civilized 
meal  which  Haynumd  and  J  were  destined  to  "Ujoy  for 
some  time. 

"  Now  bring  in  the  horses." 

!My  little  mare    Pauline  was  soon  standing  by  the  fire. 


SI 


k^ne   was    a 


tlee 


liardv,  and 


U'entl 


e   ammi 


chrislene( 


I 


after  Paul  Dijrion,  from  whom  1  had  ])ro(;ured  her  in 
exchange  for  Pontiac.  She  did  not  look  as  if  e(pn])ped 
for  a  morning  pleasure-ride.  In  front  of  the  black, 
high-bowed  mountain-saddle  were  fastened  holsters,  v,  iili 
l.eavy  pistols.  A  pair  of  saddle-bags,  a  Idanket  tightly 
1  )lle(l,  a   small    parcel   of    Indian  i)resents  tied  up  in  a 


ii 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


IGi) 


lire. 

tolled 

'1-  ill 


DIK'M 


|)UU'K, 

ihlly 
in  a 


buffalo-skin,  a  leatlioi-  ]n\<^  of  Hour,  and  a  smaller  one  of 
tea,  were  all  secured  behind,  and  a  long  trail-nvpc  was 
wound   round  her  neck.     Ravniond   had  a  stroni;,'  l)lack 


mule,  iNiuipped   in  a  sinular  m;imi( 


Wi-  L'rammed  our 


|)0\vdei'-horns  to  the  throat,  and  mounle(l. 

'•1   will    meet  you   at   Fort    Laramie    on    the   first  of 
AuLiiist,"  said  I  to  Shiiw.  ' 

"That   is,"  h(     rcpruMi, '' if  we  don't  meet    belbre  that. 


1  think  1  shall  fi  How  after  vou  in  ;i  dii\'  or  t\v 


u. 


Th 


s  ni  lael  ne  attemote 


dl 


nut  NS'oiiul  liHve  sueeee( 


led  if 


he  had  not  eneoimtered  ob'stuelcs  aiiainst  whieh  his  reso- 


lut 


e  s|iirit  was  ol'  no  av 


ail.      Two  (lavs  after  1  left  him  he 


sent  Deslauriers  to  the  I'ort  with  the  cai't  and  ba,i>'!A'a<i'e, 
and  set  out  I'oi  the  mouiitain>  with  Henry  Chatillon  :  but 
a  tremendous  thunder-storm  had  delutzed  the  prairie,  "".<{ 
nearly  ol)literated  not  only  our  trail  but  that  of  the  \  a- 
dians  themselves.  They  encam[ied  at  the  l)ase  of  the 
mountains,  at  a  loss  in  what  direction  to  go.  In  the 
niornin,u'  Shaw  Ibimd  himself  poisoned  liy  the  plant  known 


•Olson  ivv 


in  such  a  manner  that  it  was  imnossilde 


fur  him  to  travel.  So  they  turned  back  reluctantly  toward 
Fort  Laramie.  Shaw  lay  seriously  ill  for  a  week,  and  re- 
mained at  tlu"  fort  till  1  reioined  him  some  time  alter. 


'J' 


o   return  to   mv  own   s 


torv.     Ravniond   und  1  shook 


hands  with  our  friends,  roile  out  upon  the  ]>raii'ie,  and, 
clamlierimi'  the  sandv  hollows  elianiielle(l  in  the  sides  of 
the  hills,  gained  the  high  plains  abo\c.  If  a  curse  had 
been  proiKJUnced  upon  the  land,  it  could  not  liaxc  worn 
an  aspect  more  ibrhn'ii.  I'liere  were  abrupt  broken  hills, 
deep  hollows,  and  wide  [dains  :  liut  all  alike  glared  with  an 

limi'    sun.     'I'lie 
coimtrv.  as  if  narc.hed  bv  the  heat,  was  cracked  into  inmi- 


iiisupportable    whiteness    under    the  luiri 


me 


•abl 


e  lissures  and  ravines,  that  not  a 


littl 


e  imiieOeii  our 


progress.     Their   steep    sides    were  white  and  raw,  and 


itii:' 


170 


TiiK   ()Ri:gon  trail. 


m 

i 

4 


ulonu'  tliu  hottoiu  \V(!  scNcrul  liiui's  discovered  the  ln'tjiid 
tracks  ul'  the  j^riz/Iy  hear,  nowhere  more  uhuiidaiit  lliaii 
in  tliis  I'eo-ioii,  The  ridges  ol'  the  hills  ,sere  liard  as  rock, 
and  slreun  with  ])el)hles  of  llini  and  coarse  I'cd  Jasper; 
looking  Ironi  them,  tJiere  was  nothing  to  relieve  the  desert 
unil'oi'nnly,  save  here  ami  there  a  pine-tree  clinging  at  the 
edge  of  a  ravine,  and  stretching  its  rongh,  shaggy  arms 
into  lii'-  scorching  air.  Its  resinons  odoi's  recalled  the 
pine-clad  monntains  of  New  England,  and,  goaded  as  1  was 
with  a  moi'liid  thirst,!  thonght  with  a  longing  desire  on  the 
crystal  ti'easure  poured  in  such  wastel'id  prolusion  I'roni 
our  thousand  hills.  I  heard,  in  I'ani'y,  the  ])liinging  and 
gurgling  of  waters  among  the  shaded  rocks,  and  saw  them 
gleaming  dark  and  still  far  down  amid  the  ci'cvices,  the 
cold  drops  ti'iekliiig  from  the  long  green  hkjsscs. 

When  noon  came  we  found  a  little  stream,  with  a  few 
trees  and  hushes  ;  and  here  we  rested  for  an  hour.  Then 
we  travelled  on,  guided  by  the  sun,  until,  just  before 
sunset,  we  reached  another  stream,  called  Hitter  Cotton- 
wood Creek.  V  thick  growth  of  hushes  and  old  storm- 
beaten  trees  grew  at  intervals  along  its  bank.  Near  the 
foot  of  one  of  the  trees  we  flung  down  our  saddles,  and 
hobbling  our  horses,  turned  them  loose  to  feed.  The 
little  stream  was  clear  and  swift,  and  ran  musically  over 
its  white  sands.  Small  water-birds  were  s[»lashing  in 
the  shallows,  and  lilling  the  air  with  cries  and  flutter- 
bigs.  The  sun  was  just  sinking  among  gold  and  crimson 
clouds  behind  Mount  Lara  nie.  I  lav  upon  a  log  bv  the 
margin  of  the  water,  and  watched  the  restless  motions  ol 
the  little  lish  in  a  deep  still  nook  below.  Strange  to  say, 
i  seemed  to  have  gained  strength  since  the  moi-ning,  and 
almost  felt  a  sense  of  returning  health. 

We  built  our  (ire.     Night  came,  and  the  wolves  began 
to  howl.     One  deep  voice  began,  answered  in  awful  rc- 


!T 


iMMi 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


171 


sponsos  fruiii  liills,  ))hi"ms,  and  woods.  Siudi  sounds  do 
not  distnrl)  one's  .slt'c|)  upon  the  pi'airie.  We  pii'ki'toil 
the  iiKiic  and  the  undo,  and  (lid  not  awake  until  davlitilit. 


TI 


icn  we  ti 


■n( 


'd   tlicni  loose,  still   liol)l»l('(l,  to  I'ccd  I'or  uii 


liuiu'  licloic  stai'iiiiu'.  Wi!  were  <j,vttin,ii'  I'cady  our  hi'cak- 
liist  when  Ixayniond  saw  an  antclopf  hull'  a  mile  distant, 
and  said  he  would  ,i;(j  and  shoot  it. 

"  ^'onr  liusiness,"  said  1,  "•  is  to  look  al'terthe  animals. 
I  am  too  weak  to  do  nmeh,  if  any  thinu' happens  to  theiu, 
and  yon  must  keep  within  siuht  ol'the  eamp." 


U;t\nion( 


oi'onused 


aiu 


1   set 


out    with    his  rifle   in 


his 


hand.  The  mare  and  the  nude  had  crossed  the  stream, 
and  wci'e  feeding'  amonu'  the  long  grass  on  the  other  side, 
much  tormented  hy  the  attacks  ol"  large  greendicaded  Hies. 
As  1  watcdieil  them,  1  saw  them  g(j  down  into  a  hollow, 
and  as  several  minutes  elapsed  without  theii-  reappearing, 
1  waded  through  the  stream  to  look  al'lei-  theiu.  To  my 
vexation  and  alarm  1  diseovere(l  them  at  a  great  distance, 
galloping  away  at  lull  speed,  rauline  in  advance,  witli 
her  hohltles  l)roken,  and  the  nude;,  still  lettered,  Ibllowing 
with  awkwai'd  leaps.  J  fired  my  rifle  and  shouted  to  re- 
call Kavmond.  In  a  moment  he  came  running  ihrouii,!! 
the  sti'cam,  with  a  red  handkerchicd'  bound  round  his  head. 
1  poiided  t(j  the  I'ugitives,  and  ordered  him  to  pursue  them. 
Muttering  a  ''  Sacre,"  hetwecn  his  teeth,  he  set  out  at  full 
speed,  still  swinging  his  rille  in  his  hand.  I  walked  up 
to  the  top  of  a  hill,  and,  looking  away  over  the  prairie, 
cnidd  distinguish  the  runaways,  still  at  i'uU  gallop.  Re- 
turning to  tin;  fii'C,  1  sat  down  at  the  loot  of  a  tree. 
Wearily  and  anxiously  hour  after  hour  i)assed  away.  The 
loose  liark  dangling  from  the  truni;  hcdiind  me  Happed  to 
and  fro  in  the  wind,  and  the  mosiputoes  kept  up  their 
drowsy  hum;  hut  other  than  this  there  was  no  sight  nor 
sound  of  life  throughout  the  burning  landscape.     The  sun 


(t: 


§ 


ii  n  <  I    II 


I  il 


I  ,  I 


■I*-! 


i  lu 


>-v> 


li 


17-2 


Tin;    ()UK(;()N    THAU, 


rose  higluT  and  higher,  uiidl  I  knew  that  it  iiiiist  l»c  noon. 
It  sccnit'd  sriiiccly  possihh"  that  the  animals  could  lie  ic- 
c'ovcif(|.  It' they  uci'c  not,  my  sitnal ion  was  one  oi' mtioiis 
diflicnhy.  .  Shaw,  when  I  h'I'l  liim.  hiid  drcjdcd  lomovc 
thai  morning,  tml  whilhcr  he  had  not  dclciininrd.  To 
look  for  him  wonid  Ix' a  sain  iitt('m|il.  Im»i'I  liariiniic  was 
I'oi'ly  mih>s  distant,  and  I  could  not  walk  a  mile  withoul. 
great  ('l'l()rt.  Not  then  Inning  learneil  llie  |iliilo,^o)iliy  of 
yielding  to  dis|iro|iortioiiatc  olistacles.  1  resohed,  eomo 
Avhat  would,  to  eontinue  th(!  imrsnit  ol'lhe  Indians.  Only 
one  piiin  occurred  to  me;  this  was,  to  send  IJaymond  lo 
the  fori  with  an  order  lor  more  horses,  while  I  remaineil 
on  till'  spot,  awaiting  his  return,  which  misiht  take  plaei; 
^vill^m  three  days.  Hid  lo  remain  slalioiuiry  and  alono 
for  three  days,  in  a  conidry  lull  of  dangvrons  Indians, 
"was  not  the  most  llattering  of  prosjiects;  ami,  pro!  raeted 
as  mv  Indian  hunt  nnist  lie  l»v  sucli  dela\',  it  was  not  easy 
to  foretell  its  lesult.  l\('\(»l\ing  these  matters,  1  grew 
liungry  ;  and  as  om-  slo(d<  of  pro\isi(Uis,  except  four  or 
five  j)Ounds  of  lloui',  was  hy  this  time  exhausted,  1  left  the 
camp  to  see  what  game  I  could  find.  Nothing  eonld  ho 
seen  exeej)!  foui'  or  live  large  curlews  wheeling  o\('r  my 
head,  and  now  and  then  alighting  ujion  the  prairie.  I 
shot  two  of  them,  and  was  alioid  returning,  when  a  start- 
ling sight  caught  my  eye.  A  small,  dark  oliject,  like  a 
Inujian  head,  suddenly  api)Cared,  and  vanishe(l  among  tlic 
thick  hushes  along  the  stream  helow.  In  that  couidry 
cverv  straim'er  is  a  suspected  enemv  :  and  I  threw  forward 
the  muzzle  ol'  my  rille.  In  a  momeid  the  hushes  were  vio- 
lently shaken,  two  heads,  hut  not  human  heads,  protruded, 
and  to  my  great  j(ty  I  recoginzed  the  downcast,  disconso- 
late couideiiance  of  the  l)hu'k  nuile  and  the  \('llow  visau'o 
of  ranline.  Raymond  came  upon  the  nnile,  pale  and 
haggard,  complaiinug  of  a  liery  jtain  in  his  chest.     1  took 


.■inAivt 


Ill  NIINCi     INDIANS. 


173 


rliiii'iii' of  the  iiiiiiiiiils  while  lie  kiicrlcd  dowii  liy  the  s'\iU\ 
{)['  Ihf  sti'i'iiin  to  (hiiiL  lie  hinl  kcjil,  the  niiiiiw.'iys  in 
siiilil  ;is  r.'ir  ;is  the  Sidi'  l''oik  ol'  liiinmiii"  ('icck,ii  dis- 
liiiici'  *<\'  iiKdc  thiiii  ten  Hides;  and  licic  with  ure;d  dilli- 
cidty  he  had  .-.iiceeeih'd  in  catehinu  theni.  I  saw  that  ho 
was  iinarnieil,  and  asked  him  what  he  had  dune  with  his 
I'ille.      It  h:id  eneinnliei'ed  him   in  his  pin'sint,  and  he  liad 


h'i)|i|i('d  il  (HI  t  he  prau'ie 


lhiid< 


inu'   that    he    eonhl 


it 


on  liis  retinii  ;  hiit,  in  this  he  had  failed.  The  h)ss  mi;i;hl 
pnne  a  \ery  serions  oni;.  i  was  too  nnich  re/iuieed,  how- 
e\('r.  at  the  recoNcry  ol"  the  animals,  and  at  the  lidelity 
of  l{a,ym()nd,  who  niiiiht  easily  have  des(;rl('(l  with  tin  in, 
to  think  nuieh  al»ont  it  ;  and  having'  made  some  tea  lor 
him  in  a  tin  \<'ssel  whiidi  \\v  had  hroiiLiht  with  ns,  I  told 
him  that  1  wonld  uInc  him  two  honis  lor  I'cstiiijj,-  heloro 
we  set  ont  a;iain.  He  hail  eaten  nothinjj,'  that  day;  hnt 
having"  no  appetite,  he  lay  down  inini('(liatcly  to  sleep.  1 
j)i(;k('ted  the  animals  amoii^  the  hest  ^rass  that  I  eonhl 
liiid.  and  made  liies  of  jireeii  wood  to  protcet  them  i'roiu 
the  Hies;  then  sitting'  down  a,i>;!iin  hy  tlie  ti'ce,  1  watehe(l 
the  slow  movements  of  the  sun,  ;j,'i'ndging  eveiy  Jiiomeiit 
that  passed. 

The  time  I  had  mentioned  expired,  and  1  awoki;  Itay- 
moiid.  W(.'  saddleil  and  set  out  aii'ain,  hut  (irst  w(!  went 
in  seareli  of  the  lost  i'ille,  and  in  the  course  of  an  hour 
wei'e  lorlnnate  (Miouuli  to  find  it.  Then  wo  turned  west- 
ward, and  moved  over  the  hills  and  hollows  at  a  slow  pace 
towards  the  Illaek  Hills.  The  heat  no  loiiucr  tormenled 
us,  lor  a  eloud  was  hcforc  tlic  sun.  The  air  grew  fresh  and 
cool,  the  distant  mouutaiiis  frowned  more  uloomilv,  there 


.'  ? 


w 


as  a  low  mutteriiiL!;  of  thunder,  and  dense  hlack  masses 
of  cloud  rose  heavily  hehiud  the  hrokeii  jieaks.  At  first 
they  were  fringed  with  silver  hy  the  afternoon  sun  ;  hut 
soon  thick  blackness  overspread  the  sky,  and  the  desert 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


C/j 


h] 


174 


THE    OREfJON    TRAIL 


111 


around  us  was  wrapped  in  trlooni.  'riicrc  was  an  awful 
suhliniity  in  tlu;  hoarse  inurniurinu'  of  llic  thunder,  and 
tlie  sonihre  sliadows  lliat  involved  the  niounlains  and  thi; 
])lain.  The  storm  broke  witli  a  ziii'/air  hlindiiuj:  llasli,  a 
terrific  crash  of  tlnnider,  and  a  hurricane  that  liowled 
over  the  jirairie,  (hisiiiiiix  Hoods  of  water  ajzainst  us. 
Raymond  looked  ahout  him  and  cm-sed  the  merciless  ele- 
nieids.  There  seemed  no  shelter  near,  but  we  discerned 
at  length  a  deep  ravine  gashed  in  the  level  prairie.  an<l  saw 
half-way  (h)wn  its  side  an  old  pine-tree,  wliose  rough  hori- 
zontal boughs  formed  a  sort  of  pent-house  against  the 
tempest.  We  found  a  practicable  jiassage,  led  our  ani- 
mals down,  and  fastened  them  to  large  loose  stones  at  the 
bottom  ;  tlien  climbing  up,  we  drew  our  blankets  over  our 
heads,  and  crouched  close  beiu'ath  the  old  tree.  Perhaps 
I  was  no  comj)etent  judge  of  time,  but  it  seemed  to  me 
that  we  were  sitting  there  a  full  hour,  while  around  us 
poured  a  deluge  of  rain,  through  whicli  tlie  rocks  on 
the  oj)positc  side  of  the  gulf  were  barely  visible.  The 
first  burst  of  the  tempest  soon  subsided,  ])ut  the  rain 
poured  in  steady  torrents.  At  length  Raymond  grew  im- 
patient, and  scrambling  out  of  the  ravine,  gaiiicd  the  level 
prairie  above. 

"  What  does  the  weather  look  like  ?  "  asked  I,  from  my 
seat  under  the  tree. 

"  It  looks  bad,"  he  answered  :  "  dark  all  round  ;  "  and 
again  he  descended  and  sat  down  by  my  side.  Some  ten 
minutes  elapsed. 

"  Go  up  again,"  said  I,  "  and  take  another  look  ;  "  and 
he  clambered  up  the  precipice.     "  Well,  how  is  it  ?  " 

"  Just  the  same,  only  I  sec  one  little  bright  s})ot  over 
the  top  of  the  mountain." 

The  rain  by  this  time  had  begun  to  abate  ;  and  going 
down  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  wc  loosened  the  ani- 


Ill  NTING    INDIANS. 


175 


iiials,  wlio  wore  stiinding  up  to  tlieii*  knoos  in  water. 
Lcadiiiii'  tliciii  up  the  rocky  throat  of  the  inviiie,  we 
rciiclied  the  pUiiii  above.  All  around  ns  was  oliscurity  ; 
liut  the  hi-itiht  spot  a1)0vc  tlie  nionntains  utow  wider  and 
ruddier,  until  at  length  the  (douds  drew  apart,  and  a  Hood 
of  sunlteanis  poured  down,  streaming  along  the  preeij)ices, 
an(^  involving  them  in  a  thin  blue  haze,  as  soft  as  that 
which  wraps  the  Apennines  on  an  evening  in  s])ring. 
Rapidly  the  clouds  were  broken  and  scattered,  like  I'outed 
legions  of  evil  S{)irits.  The  ]»lain  lay  basking  in  sun- 
beams around  us  ;  a  rainbow  arched  the  desert  from 
north  to  south,  and  far  in  front  a  line  of  woods  seemed 
inviting  us  to  refreshment  and  repose.  When  we  reached 
them,  they  were  glistening  with  prismatic  dew-dro])s,  and 
enlivened  by  the  songs  and  flutterings  of  birds.  Strange 
winged  insects,  beiumd)ed  by  the  rain,  were  clinging  to  the 
leaves  and  the  bark  of  the  trees. 

Raymond  kindled  a  fire  with  great  difficulty.  The 
animals  turned  eagerly  to  feed  on  the  soft  rich  grass, 
while  I,  wrapping  myself  in  my  blanket,  lay  down  and 
gazed  on  the  evening  landscape.  The  mountains,  wdiose 
stern  features  had  frowned  ujion  us  so  gloomily,  seemed 
lighted  up  with  a  benignant  smile,  and  the  gicen  waving 
undulations  of  the  })lain  Avere  gladdened  with  warm 
sunshine.  Wet,  ill,  and  wearied  as  I  was,  my  heart  gi'ew 
lighter  at  the  view,  and  1  drew  from  it  an  augury  of 
good. 

When  morning  came,  Raymond  awoke,  coughing  vio- 
lently, though  I  had  apparently  received  no  injury.  We 
mounted,  crossed  the  little  stream,  ]iushed  through  th(i 
trees,  and  began  our  journey  over  the  plain  beyond.  And 
now,  as  we  rode  slowly  along,  we  looked  anxiously  on 
every  hand  for  traces  of  the  Indians,  not  doubting  that 
the  village  had  passed  somewhere  in  that  vicinity ;  but 


m 


If'i' 


■ "  ;i  }i 


•IS,! 

1    !■(' 


,H 


170 


THE    OREGON     TRAIL. 


flic  scanty  slirivcllcMl  grass  wus  not  more  tlian  tlircc  or 
lour  indies  lii.uli,  ami  tlic  ground  was  so  lianl  lliat  a 
host  niiiilit  liavc  niarclicfl  over  it  and  left  scai'ocly  a 
traco  of  its  passag'c.  U|)  hill  and  down  hill,  and  clam- 
bering tlirongh  ravines,  we  conlinned  onr  jonrney.  As 
we  wen;  passing  the  foot  of  a  liill,  1  saw  Raymond, 
wlio  was  some  rods  in  advance,  suddenly  jerk  tlici  i-eiiis 
of  his  nnde,  slide  iVom  his  seat,  and  run  in  a  crouch- 
ing jioslure  up  a  hollow;  then  in  an  instant  I  heard 
the  sharp  crack  of  his  rifle.  \  wounded  antelope  came 
running  on  three  legs  over  the  hill.  I  laslied  J'aulinc 
and  made  after  him.  My  fleet  little  marc  soon  brought 
me  hy  his  side,  and,  alter  lea])ing  and  hounding  for  a 
few  moments  in  vain,  he  stood  still,  as  if  despairing 
of  escape.  His  glistening  eyes  tm-ned  u\)  towards  my 
face  with  so  piteous  a  look,  that  it  was  with  feelings 
of  infinite  compmiction  that  I  shot  him  through  the 
head  with  a  pistol.  Raymond  skinned  and  cut  him  up, 
and  we  hung  the  fore-(iuarters  to  our  saddles,  nmch  re- 
joiceil  that  our  exhausted  stock  of  provisions  was  re- 
newed in  such  good  time. 

daining  the  top  of  a  hill,  we  could  see  along  the 
cloudy  verge  of  tlie  prairie  liefore  us  the  lines  of  trees 
and  shadowy  groves,  that  marked  the  course  of  Laramie 
Creek.  Rcforc  noon  avc  reached  its  hanks,  and  began 
anxiously  to  search  them  for  f()ot))rints  of  the  Indians. 
We  followed  the  stream  for  several  miles,  now  on  the 
shore  and  now  wading  in  the  water,  scrutinizing  every 
sand-bar  and  every  muddy  bank.  So  long  was  the 
search,  that  we  began  to  fear  tlua;  we  had  left  the  trail 
undiscovered  behind  us.  At  length  I  heard  Raymond 
shouting,  and  saw  him  jump  from  his  mule  to  examine 
some  object  nnder  the  shelving  bank.  1  rode  up  to  his 
side.     It   was   the   imj)ression  of  an   Indian   moccasin. 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


177 


Eiicoiirnji'od  hv  tliis,  wo  conlimied  our  scaich  lill  at   last 


some  appearances  on  a  so 


I't  siir 


ace  ol  cailli  not    lar  ir()ni 


the  shore  atl I'actcd  my  eve  ;  and  u'oinu' to  examine  them 
1  t'oun<l  lialC  a  do/en  tracks,  some  made  l>y  men  and 
some  l»y  (diihhen.  .Inst  tlicn  Raymond  ohsei'ved  across 
the  stream  the  month  ol"  a  Wrook.  entering  it  from  the 
south,  lie  I'ordcil  the;  water,  roch:  in  at  the  opening,  and 
in  a  moment  1  heard  him  shouting  again  ;  so  1  i)assed 
over  and/|oiiu'd  him.  The  hrook  had  a  hroad  sandy  hed, 
along  which  the  water  trickletl  in  a  scanty  stream;  and 
on  either  hank  the  hushes  were  so  close  that  the  view 
was  completely  intcrcepti'd.  1  found  Raymond  stooping 
over  the  footprints  of  tliree  or  four  horses.     Proceeding, 


w 


e  found   those  of  a  man,  then  those  of  a  cliild,  the 


a 


those  of  more  horses  ;  till  at  last  the  hushes  on  each  hank 
weic  heaten  down  and  l)roken,  and  tlio  sand  )»longhed  up 
with  a  nndtitndeof  lootsteps,  and  scored  across  with  the 
fiu'rows  made  iiy  the  lodge-poles  that  had  heeu  dragg(Ml 
through.  It  was  now  certain  that  we  had  found  the  trail. 
1  pushed  through  the  hushes,  and  at  a  little  distance  on 
the  prairie  heyond  found  the  ashes  of  a  liundred  and  IM'ty 
lodge-!ires,  with  hones  and  jiiet'csof  hnlfalo-ro])es  scattcivd 
ahout,  and  the  pickets  to  which  liorses  had  heen  tied,  still 
standing  in  the  ground.  l']latcd  hy  our  success,  we  se- 
lected a  convenient  tree,  and,  turning  the  animals  loose, 
prepared  to  nudvC  a  meal  iVom  the  haunch  of  the  anteloi)C. 
Hardship  and  exposure  had  thriven  with  me  wonder- 
fully. 1  had  gained  hotli  health  and  strength  since 
leaviuu'  La  IJonte's  cami).  Ravmond  and  1  dined  to- 
gether,  in  high  spirits;  for  we  rashly  presumed  that 
having  found  one  end  of  the  trail  we  should  have  little 
difliculty  in  reaching  the  other.  But  when  the  animals 
were  led  in,  we  found  that  our  ill-luck  had  not  ceased  to 

follow  us.     As  1  was  saddling  Pauline,  1  saw  that  her  eye 

12 


i^i'ii 


■*  i 


iJli 


%i 


N 


i 

■ .  i ,  ■.  ■ 

■ 

^9i'  ^''. 

1 

ij:|; 

i 

'\-^  ■ 

i,  :; 

•■(    '"V"' 


178 


Tin:    OREGON    TRAIL. 


Ilk 


was  (lull  ns  \viu\,  and  the  line  of  licr  yellow  coal  visihly 
(iarkciHMJ.  1  jtlaccd  my  foot  in  the  stiiriip  to  hkmiuI, 
when  she  slaii'^ci'ed  and  I'ell  Hat,  on  her  side.  (Jaininy; 
her  leet  with  an  elTort,  she  stood  hy  the  lii'e  witli  a  di'(jo|)- 
in^  head.  Whether  she  had  l)een  iiitten  l»y  a  snake,  or 
jioisoned  liy  sonu;  noxious  plant,  or  attaeked  liy  a  sudden 
disorder,  it  was  hard  to  say  ;  hut  at  all  events,  her  sick- 
ness was  suHieiently  ill-timed  and  unfortunate.  1  suc- 
ceeded in  a  second  attempt  to  mount  her.  and  with  u  slow 
pace  we  moved  forward  on  the  trail  of  the  Indians.  It 
led  II.S  up  a  hill  and  over  a  dreary  j)lain  ;  and  heiv,  to  our 
great  mortilication,  the  traces  almost  disappeared,  for  the 
ground  was  hard  as  adamant;  and  if  its  llinty  surface 
had  ever  letaiued  the  dint  of  a  hoof,  the  marks  had  lieen 
washed  away  by  the  delude  of  yesterday.  An  Indian 
village,  in  its  disoi'derly  nuirch,  is  scattered  over  the 
])rairie  often  to  the  width  of  half  a  mile;  so  that  its 
trail  is  nowhere  clcarlv  marked,  and  the  task  of  follow- 
ing  it  is  made  douhlv  wearisome  and  diOicult.  J>v  good 
fortune,  many  lai'ge  ant-hills,  a  yard  or  more  in  diameter, 
were  scattered  over  the  plain,  and  these  were  iVeijuently 
broken  hy  the  footprints  of  men  and  horses,  and  marked 
by  traces  of  the  lodge-j)oles.  The  succulent  leaves  of  the 
prickly-pear,  bruised  IVom  the  same  causes,  also  hel[)ed 
to  guide  us  :  so,  inch  by  inch,  we  moved  along.  Ol'ten 
we  lost  the  trail  altogether,  and  then  found  it  again  ;  but 
late  in  the  afternoon  we  were  totally  at  fault.  We  sto(jd 
alone,  without  a  clew  to  guide  us.  The  l)roken  plain  ex- 
j)anded  for  league  after  league  around  us,  and  in  front 
the  long  dark  riduc  of  mountains  stretched  from  north  to 
south.  Mount  Laramie,  a  little  on  our  right,  towered 
high  above  the  rest,  and  from  a  dark  vallev  just  bevond 
one  of  its  lower  declivities,  we  discerned  volumes  of  white 
smoke  rising  slowly. 


,il)ly 
nut, 
niu'^ 
•oop- 
0,  or 
dtk'U 
s"u:k- 
suc- 
slow 
..     It 
()  our 
ui"  the 
m-race 
I  Ween 
Indian 
iiv  the 
hat  its 
Ibllow- 


HINTING    INDIANS. 


17!) 


"  T   tliink,"  said    Havniond,  "so 


mo 


tl 


icro. 


Perl 


lilpS   Ave    IliK 


I  hett 


ei-  u-(». 


Iiidiim> 
\\u\   thi 


must 


lie 


s  |iliin  was 


not  liiilitly  to  lie  adopted,  and  we  determiMeil  still  to  con- 
timie  our  se{*reli  after  the  lost  trail.  Oiii-  uood  stars 
prompted  us  to  this  deeisioii,  loi-  we  al'terwaiMl  had  icasoti 
to  lielieve,  IVoni  inlormation  triven  us  hy  the  Indians, 
tliat  the  smoke  was  raised  as  a  deeoy  liy  a  Cr 
nartv. 


ow  war- 


EvenintJ:  was  comimr  on,  and  there  was  no  wood    or 


water  nearer  than  the  loot  of  the  mountain? 


thitl 


ler 


we  tni'iUMl,  directing:  our  course  towar<ls  the  jioint  where 
Laramie  Creek  issues  upon  the  prairie.  When  we  reached 
it,  the  liare  tops  of  the  mountains  were  still  liriulit  with 
sunshine.     The  little  river  was  ltr(>akin<r,  with  an  anirrv 


cu 


rrent,  from  its  dark  prise 


prison. 


Tl 


lerc  was  somcthmu'  in 


the  close  vicinitv  of  the  mountains  and  the  loud  snruin<jr 
of  the  rapids,  wonderfully  cheering  and  exhilaiatiiiir. 
TluM'O  was  a  grass-plot  by  the  I'iver  bank,  surronnded 
by  low  ridges,  which  would  ofTectually  screen  us  and  our 
lire  from  the  sight  of  wandering  Indians.  Here,  among 
the  grass,  I  oliserved  numerous  circles  of  larg(^  stones, 
traces  of  a  Daheotah  winter  encampment.  We  lay  down, 
and  did  not  awake  till  the  sun  was  uj).  A  hirge  rock 
projected  from  the  shore,  and  behind  it  the  deep  water 
was  slowly  eddying  r(Hind  and  round.  The  temptation 
was  irresistible.  I  threw  off  my  eh)thes,  leape(l  in.  suf- 
fered myself  to  be  borne  once  round  with  the  current, 
and  then,  seizing  the  strong  root  of  a  water-i>laMt,  drew 
myself  to  the  shore.  Tlie  etTect  was  so  relrcsliing.  that 
I  mistook  it  for  returning  health.  But  scarcely  were  we 
mounted  and  on  our  wav,  before  the  momentarv  <j;low 
passed.  Again  I  hung  as  usual  in  my  scat,  scarcely  able 
to  hold  mvself  erect. 


Look 


iv  vonuer 


V 


sai 


d   Ri 


ivmonc 


a 


you 


see    tliat   l)iy: 


i| 


1,1 


!  '  '!■ 


-Ml 

;        I        it*'' 


M' 


III 


I  :    :  t. 


i---'HM 


^i;!!: 


180 


THE    OllLCiON    TRAIL. 


In 


hollow  thorc;  the  Indiiiiis  must  have  gone  tliai  way,  if 
they  wonl  anywluTo  about  horc." 

We  rcaeiuMl  the  gap,  which  was  like  a  deep  notdi  cut 
into  the  niouiitain-i'idge,  and  lu'rc  we  soon  found  an  ant- 
hill furrowed  with  the  mark  of  a  lo(lge-j)ole.  This  was 
quite  cuouuh  ;  there  could  he  no  douht,  now.  Aw  we  rode 
on,  the  o])eniu;j:  growing  narrower,  the  Indians  had  l)e(Mi 
eompelN'd  t(j  march  in  closer  order,  and  the  traces  he- 
came  numerous  and  distinct.  The  gap  t<M'niinated  in  a 
rocky  gateway,  leading  into  a  rough  an<l  steep  defde, 
between  two  precipitous  mountains.  Here  grass  and 
weeds  were  bruised  to  fragments  by  the  throng  that  had 
j)assed  through.  Wt;  moved  slowly  over  the  rocks,  up 
tiie  passage  ;  and  in  this  toilsome  manner  advanced  for 
an  hoiu'  or  two,  bare  precipices,  hundreds  of  fc'ct  high, 
shooting  up  on  either  hand.  Raymon<l.  with  his  hai'dy 
nude,  was  :•  few  rods  Itel'ore  me,  when  w('  came  to  the 
foot  of  an  ascent  steeper  than  the  rest,  an<l  which  I 
trusted  might  prove  the  highest  i)oint  of  the  defde.  Pau- 
line strained  upward  for  a  i'iiw  yards,  moaning  and  stum- 
bling, and  then  came  to  a  dead  stoj),  unable  to  proceed 
further.  1  dismounted,  and  attempte<l  to  lead  her  ;  but 
my  own  exhausted  strength  soon  gave  out ;  so  1  loosened 
the  ti'iiil-rope  from  her  neck,  and  tying  it  round  my  arm, 
crawled  uj)  on  my  hands  and  knees.  I  gained  the  top, 
totally  spent,  the  sweat-drops  trickling  from  my  forehead. 
Pauline  stood  like  a  statue  l)y  my  side,  her  shadow  falling 
uj)on  the  scorching  rock  ;  and  in  this  shade,  for  there 
was  no  other,  1  lav  for  some  time,  scarcely  able  to  move  a 
limb.  All  around,  the  black  crags,  sharp  as  needles  at 
the  toj),  stood  l)aking  in  the  sun,  without  tree  or  bush 
or  blade  of  grass  to  cover  their  nakedness.  The  whole 
scene  seemed  parched  with  a  pitiless,  insufferable  heat. 

After  a  while  I  could  mount  again,  and  we  moved  on, 


Ill  NTINti    INDIANS. 


181 


dcscf'iuliiij^  ilic  (Icfilo  on  its  wcst^'ni  sitlc.  Tlicn:'  was 
SDinctliiiiji'  ridiculous  in  (Ik-  situation.  M;iu  and  liorsc 
were  hL'l[)k'ss  aliivt'.  I'auliue  and  1  could  neitiu'r  light 
nor  run. 

Raymond's  sa(|ill(>-^'irtli  slipjicd  ;  aiul  while  1  |irocc('dcd 
he  stopped  to  repair  the  mischicr.  J  cani(»  to  the  top  of 
[I  little  deidivity,  where  a  welccjUK'  siuht  greeted  my  eye; 
a  nook  of  I'resli  j^recn  gi'ass  nestled  anioni:'  the  (dill's, 
sunny  clumps  of  hushes  on  one  side,  and  shandy  <dd 
jiino-trecs  leanin<r  IVom  the  rocks  on  the  other.  A  sIiimU, 
lamiliar  voice  saluted  me,  and  recalled  me  to  diiys  of 
hovhood  ;  that  of  the  insect  called  the  "•  locust"  l»v  Sow 
Kuuland  schoolhoys,  which  was  clinginji'  among  tlie  heated 
houghs  of  the  old  pine-trees.  Then,  too,  as  I  passed  tlic 
liushes,  the  low  sound  of  falling  water  reached  my  ear. 
raulinc  turned  of  her  own  accord,  and  pushing  tlirough 
the  houghs,  we  found  a  hlack  rock,  overarched  hy  the  cool 
green  canopy.  An  icy  stream  was  pouring  from  its  side 
into  a  wide  hasin  of  white  sand,  whence  it  had  no  visihlc 
outlet,  hut  filtered  through  into  the  soil  helow.  While  I 
filled  a  tin  cup  at  the  spring,  Pauline  was  eagerly  plung- 
ing her  head  deep  in  the  pool.  Other  visitors  had  l)e(!n 
there  heforc  us.  All  around  in  the  soft  soil  wer(>  the 
footprints  of  elk,  deer,  and  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep; 
and  the  grizzly  hear  too  liad  left  the  recent  prints  of  his 
Itroad  foot,  with  its  frightful  array  of  claws.  Among 
these  mountains  was  his  home. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  spring  we  found  a  little  grassy 
l)luin,  encircled  hy  the  mountains,  and  marked,  to  our 
great  joy,  with  all  the  traces  of  an  Indian  camp,  ilay- 
niond's  practised  eye  detected  certain  signs,  hy  which  he 
recognized  the  spot  where  Reynal's  lodge  had  lieen  pitched 
and  his  horses  j)icketed.  I  approaclicd,  and  stood  look- 
ing at  the  })lace.     Reynal  and  I  had,  1  helieve,  hardly  a 


n 


\i 


:  , ,    1 

'     1      ' 

t    '  . 

^' 

i. 


If 


III 


^h 


iiU 


Mil'., 


m 


K' 


18-i 


THE  ouiKioN    riiAir,. 


Ill 


lit 


fecliii'^'  ill  (•(tiiiiuMii.  iiiid  it  ixTiilcxcd  mo  ii  ^ood  deal  lo 
undrrstiiiid  why  I  should  look  with  so  iimch  iiilcrcst  on 
tilt'  iislics  (»r  his  lire,  wiit'ii  hctwccn  him  and  mo  tlicro 
was  no  olhci'  Wond  of  sym|ialhy  than  the  sUmdcr  and  \)V(i- 


carions  one  ol   a  UindrcMl  i-acc 


n  lial 


an   lionr  tiom  tins  \V(!  wore  ivn)  o 


fiv 


.r  tl 

1. 


10  iiKJun- 


ind 


tanis.  I  hero  was  a  plain  hoh)ro  us,  totally  barron  a 
iiiicUly  peopled  in  many  parts  with  prairioHJous,  who  sat 
at  the  months  of  tlieii"  huri'ows  and  ycdped  at  iis  as  wo 
passed,  'i'lio'  plain,  as  wo  thouuiit,  was  alioiit  six  miles 
■wid(! ;  hut  it  eost  us  two  hours  to  eross  it.  Tiien  another 
inountain-ranjit;  roso  bol'oro  us.  From  tho  doiiso  ImisIk's  that 
clothed  tho  steojis  for  a  tliousand  loot  sliot  up  Idack  oraj^s, 
all  leaning'  ono  way,  and  shattered  hy  storms  and  thunder 
into  urim  and  throutoning  shapes.  As  wo  entoriMl  a  nar- 
row |)assaLio  on  tho  trail  of  tho  Indians,  thoy  impoudod 
fright I'l illy  above  our  lieads. 

Our  course  was  tlir()u<j,h  tliick  woods,  in  tho  shade;  and 
sunliiilit  of  overhan^'iuii,'  bou;;hs.  As  W(;  wound  from  sido 
to  sido  of  tlu.'  passage,  to  avoid  its  ol»stru(;tions,  we  could 
800  at  intervals,  throuj^h  tho  foliage,  tlu;  awt'ul  forms  of 
tiio  gigantic  clills,  that  seemed  to  lioni  us  in  on  tho  right 
and  on  the  left,  liol'ore  and  behind. 

In  an  open  sjiaco,  fenced  in  l)y  liigli  rocks,  stood  two 
Indian  forts,  of  a  S(jnar(!  form,  rudely  ])uilt  of  sticks  and 
logs,  'f  hey  were  somewhat  ruinous,  having  jjrobably  boon 
constru(,'te(l  the  voar  l)eforo.  Each  might  have  contained 
about  twenty  men.  IVrhaps  in  tliis  gloomy  spot  some 
party  had  been  beset  i  v  enemies,  and  those  scowling  rocks 
and  blasted  trees  might  not  long  since  liavo  looked  down 
on  a  conflict,  nnelironicled  and  unknown.  Yet  if  any 
traces  of  bloodshed  remained  they  were  hidden  by  tf.c 
bushes  and  tall  raidc  weeds. 

Gradually  the  mountains  drew  apart,  and  the  })assagc 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


1K5 


cxpniKlcd  into  ;i  |iliiiii,  wlicru  ji^L'^ain  \\v  [\ni\u\  truces  of  uii 
Ii;(|i:iii  ('lu'iinipinciit.  'riuTf  wci-c  Irt'cs  iiiid  Itiislics  just 
Ik'Ioi'c  us,  jind  we  sl(»|i|ic(l  licic  for  :iu  Imui's  rest  and  rc- 
IVcsliinciit.  When  uc  had  liuislicd  oiii-  nicnl,  IJayMKtMd 
stiuck  liic.  ami,  litililiuu:  his  \>'\\>*\  sat  down  at  the  loot  of 


I  tree  to  SMiokc 


1' 


or  souic  tunc 


I    ol 


iscrv(  i| 


liiiii 


lu: 


awiiv    with    a   lace   of   unusual    solcniuitv 


T\ 


K'M 


(Ullil 

slowly 

tidviiii:'  the  |ti|i(!  IVoHi  his  li|is,  iio  looked  up  and  I'ciuai'kcd 
that  we  had  lutlri-  not  i^o  any  farlhor. 


W 


i\'  not 


iis 


kcd  1, 


lie  said  that  the  i'(Miutrv  was  lieconio  vory  dnn^rorouH, 
that  we  were  euterinu'  the  ranuo  of  the  Snakes,  Aia|iaho(»s, 
and  (Iros-veiitro  iJlackl'eet,  and  that  if  any  of  their  wan- 
deiinu'  imrties  should  meet  us,  it  would  cost  us  our  lives  ; 
hut  he  added  with  hlunt  fidelity,  that  he  would  ^o  anywhere 
1  wished.  I  told  him  to  hrinu' up  the  animals,  and  moinit- 
iui;'  them  w(^  proceeded  ajzain.  1  couless  that,  as  wo 
moved  forward,  the  prospect  seemed  hut  a  doulitful  one. 
1  would  have  jiiveii  tlio  world  for  my  ordinary  elasticity 
of  hody  and  mind,  autl  for  a  horse  of  such  strength  and 
spii'it  as  the  journey  required. 

Closer  and  closer  the  rocks  gathered  round  us,  urowing 
taller  and  steeper,  and  i)ressing  more  and  more  upon  our 
path.  We  entered  at  length  a  delih;  which,  in  its  way, 
1  never  have  seen  rivalled.  The  mountain  was  ci'acked 
from  top  to  liottom,  and  we  were  creeping  alonu'  the  liot- 
loni  of  the  fissure,  in  dampness  and  gloom,  with  the  clink 
of  hoofs  on  the  loose  shingly  rocks,  and  the  hoarse  nuir- 
nuu'ing  of  a  petulant  hrook  which  kept  us  company. 
Sometimes  the  water,  foaming  among  the  stones,  over- 
spread the  whole  narrow  passage  ;  sometimes,  withdraw- 
ing to  one  side,  it  gave  us  room  to  pass  dry-shod.  Looking 
up,  we  ciHild  see  a  narrow  ribhon  of  l^right  hlue  sky  he- 
Iwecn  the   dark   edges  of  the   opjjosing  cliffs.     This  did 


I   : 


ii 


I 


iii 


[1 


• 

;/■ 

.  ^  p 

i 

' :  n». 

;  \  .  ;■ 

ir 

IHt 


Tin:  oinxioN    iiiAiL. 


not  last  l(»ii^'.  'I'Ik'  passaj^o  soon  \vi<I<'iii<I,  and  siiiihcains 
loiiiul  tlicir  way  down,  llasliiiii;'  ujmmi  the  hIarU  waters. 
'JMic  (U'lilc  would  spread  to  many  rods  in  width  ;  Imslies, 
trees,  and  (lowers  would  sju'int;'  liy  tiio  sidt-  of  llie  lirnok; 
the  elills  would  lie  leatliere(|  with  slirnldiery,  liial,  clunu' 
in  every  crevice,  and  IVingeil  with  trees,  that  urew  aion^' 
their  sunnv  ('(lues.  'I'lien  we  wouhl  lie  nioviny,"  auain  in 
darlvuess.  'I'he  |tassa!:('  seemed  ul»out  I'our  miles  loni:, 
and  hel'ore  we  reached  the  end  ol'  i(,  llie  unshod  liool's  of 
our  animals  wei'e  Wroken,  and  tlanr  le^s  cut  l»y  the  sharp 
Btones.  Issuin;,^  I'rom  the  mountain  we  I'ound  anothei- 
plain.  All  around  it  stood  u  cirtdc  of  precipices,  that 
seenietl  the  impei'sonation  ol' Silence  and  Solitude.  Ilert! 
tt'iain  the  Imlians  had  encampe(l,as  well  they  mi^ht,  after 
jiassiiiLr  with  their  women,  children,  and  horses,  throiiuh 
the  u'ulf  hehind  us.  in  one  dav  we  had  madi;  a  iourncv 
\vhi(di  it  had  cost  them  three  to  accomplish. 

The  oidv  outlet  to  this  amphitheatre  lav  (jvcr  a  hill 
Rome  two  lmndrc(l  ['vvt  hiuli,  Uj>  which  we  moved  with 
dilVicidty.  Lookiiiii'  from  the  top,  we  saw  that  at  last  we 
were  free  of  the  mountains.  The  jirairie  spread  hel'ore 
us,  hut  so  wild  and  hroken  that  the  view  was  everywhere 
obstructed.  Far  on  our  left  (»ne  tall  hill  swelled  up 
against  the  sky,  on  the  smooth,  pale-u'reen  surface  of 
which  i'our  slowly  nujvinti'  Wlack  specks  wei'c  discernihie. 
They  were  e\i(lenlly  huffalo,  and  we  hailed  the  sight  as  a 
good  augury  ;  for  wliei'e  the  liuflido  wei'c,  thci'e  tin;  In- 
dians would  proliahly  he  found.  We  hoped  on  that,  veiy 
niglit  to  reach  the  village.  We  wei'c  anxious  to  do  so  for 
a  double  reason,  wishing  to  bring  our  journey  to  an  end, 
and  knowing  moi'cover  that  though  to  entei-  the  village  in 
broad  daylight  would  be  perfectly  safe,  yet  to  encamp  in 
i',s  vicinitv  would  be  dangerous.  Hut  as  we  rode  on,  the 
sun  Avas  sinkinu",  and  soon  was  within  half  an  hour   of 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


18; 


tlio  liorizon.  Wo  iiscondrd  n  liill  imd  looked  iilioul  us  for 
(I  spot  for  our  cuciiuiiiUK'Ut.  'I'lic  pi'jiiric  was  like  a  jur- 
liuli'ul  ocrau,  suddt'uly  couiicalrd  when  its  waves  were  al 
tlie  liiuliest,  aud  it  lay  lialf  in  liiilit  and  lialf  in  shadow, 
as  the  rich  sunshine,  yellow  as  <jol(l,  was  ponrin-j'  over  it. 


Tl 


le   roULill    hushes 


ol    II 


le  Wild   sau'e  were  i^rowinu'  everv- 


wliei'e,  its  dull  pale-^reen  overspreading'  hill  ami  lii»llow. 
^'et  a  little  way  hel'ore  \\s,  a  hriiiht  NcrdanI  line  ol"  urass 
was  windinti'  alonu'  the  plain,  and  hei'c  and  there  tlu-ouuh- 
out  its  course  tiiisteueil  pools  ol"  water.  W'v  ufnl  dnwn 
to  it,  kiuille(l  a  lire,  and  turnecl  our  hoi'ses  loose  to  \'v{'i\. 
It  was  a  little  triekliiuj;  hrook,  that  lor  some  vards  on 
either  side  tin-uetl  the  harivn  prairie  into  fei-tility.  and 
here  and  ther*'  it  spread  into  deep  pools,  wheie  the  lieav- 
ers  had  dannned  it  up. 

We  |)laeed  our  last  reniaininir  jiieee  of  antelope  hefoi'c! 
a  scanty  lire,  nioui'nfuUy  rellectinu'  on  our  exhausted  stock 
of  provisions.  Just  then  a  lai'u(5  j^ray  hare,  peculiar  to 
these  jirairies,  came  jumpiiiu'  alon;^',  and  seated  himself 
within  lil'tv  vards  to  look  at  us.  1  thouuhtlesslv  i-aised 
my  rill(!  to  shoot  him,  hut  i^iymond  called  out  to  me  not 
to  lire  for  fear  the  I'cjiorl  should  reach  the  eai's  of  the 
Jiuliaus.  That  ni<iht  for  the  first  time  wc  considered  that 
the  daiiii'er  to  which  we  wen;  exposed  was  of  a  somewhat 
serious  character  ;  and  to  those  who  are  uiuu'(piainted 
with  Indians,  it  may  seem  strange  that  our  chief  appre- 
hensions arose  from  the  snp|)osed  proximity  of  the  people 
whom  we  intende(l  to  visit.  Had  any  sti'a^'ulin|Lr  party  of 
these  faithful  friends  caught  siuht  of  us  from  the  hill-lo]>, 
they  would  prohabiy  have  returned  in  the  ni^iit  to  ]»lun- 


Icr  us 


of 


our  horses,  an( 


1  perl 


lans  ol  our  scalps. 


Ihit  th 


jirairie  is    nnfavoral)le  to  nei'vonsness ;    and   I   presume; 
that  neither  Raymond  nor  I  thought  twice  of  the   matter 


that 


I 


111' 


cvennm", 


i-  I 


186 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


1^.  f 


For  cijiht  hours  pillowed  on  our  saddles,  we  lay  in- 
sensible as  logs.  Paulimrs  yellow  head  was  strctehed 
over  nic  when  1  awoke.  1  rose  and  examined  her.  Her 
I'eet  were  l)rnised  and  swollen  by  the  aeeidents  of  yester- 
day, but.  her  eye  was  biiuhter,  her  motions  livelier,  and 
her  mysterious  malady  had  visibly  abated.  AVe  moved 
on.  ho])in<^  within  an  hour  to  eome  in  siuht  of  the  Indian 
village  ;  but  again  disappointment  awaited  us.  The  trail 
disajjpeared  upon  a  liard  and  stony  j)lain.  llaymond  and  1 
rode  IVom  side  to  side,  serutinizing  every  yard  of  ground, 
until  at  length  I  'Vnind  traces  of  the  lodge-polos,  by  tic 
side  of  a  ridge  of  roeks.  A\'e  began  again  to  follow 
them. 

"■  What  is  that  black  spot  out  there  on  the  prairie  ? '' 
"  It  looks  like  a  dead  buffalo,"  answei'cd  Raymond. 
We  rode  to  it,  and  found  it  to  be  the  huge  carcass  of 
a  bull  killed  by  the  hunters  as  they  had  passed.     Tangled 
hair  and  scraj)S  of  hide  were  scatten  d  on  all  sides,  ibr 
the  wolves  had  made  merry  over  it,  and  hollowed  out  the 
entire   carcass.     It  was   covered  with   mvriads  of  larue 
black  criekets,  and  I'roni  its  appearance  nuist  have  lain 
there  four  or  five  days.     The  sight  was  a  disheartening 
one,  and  I  observed  to  Raymond  that  the  Indians  might 
still  be  fifty  or  sixty  miles  oil'.     But  he  shook  his  head, 
and  replied  that  they  dared  not  go  so  far  for  fear  of  their 
enemies,  the  Snakes. 

Soon  after  this  we  lost  the  trail  again,  and  ascended  a 
neighboring  ridge,  totally  at  a  loss.  Before  us  lay  a 
})lain  perfectly  Hat,  spieading  on  the  right  and  left,  without 
apparent  limit,  and  bounded  in  front  by  a  long  broken  line 
of  hills,  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant.  All  was  open  and  ex- 
}»osed  to  view,  yet  not  a  buffalo  nor  an  Indian  was  visible. 
"Do  you  see  that?"  said  Raymond:  '' now  \,g  had 
better  turn  round." 


HUNTING    INDIANS. 


187 


But  as  Rnynioiid's  LourtjcutH  t'lK^uglit  otherwise,  we  de- 
sceiuled  the  hill  uud  l)egaii  .o  eross  the  phiiii.  We  had 
come  HO  I'ai'.  tliat  neither  Pauline's  linil)s  nor  luy  own 
c(juld  caii'V  me  haek  to  Fort  Laramie.  I  eonsidei'ed  that 
the  lilies  ol'  expedieney  and  inelination  tallied  exactly, 
and  that  the  most  pi'iident  eijurse  was  to  keep  forward. 
The  ground  immediately  around  us  was  thiekly  strewn 
with  the  skulls  and  hones  ol"  hulialo,  i'or  here  a  yeai'  or 
two  helore  the  Indians  had  made  a  "  surround  ;  "  yet  no 
living  game  was  in  sight.  At  length  an  imtclopc  sj)rai:g 
up  and  gazed  at  us.  We  fired  together,  and  both  mi.-,sed, 
although  the  animal  stood,  a  lair  nmrk,  within  eighty 
yards.  This  ill-success  might  perha])s  he  charged  to  om* 
own  eagerness,  i'or  by  this  time  we  had  no  provisions 
left  except  a  little  Hour.  We  could  see  several  })ools  of 
water,  glistening  in  the  distance.  As  ^ve  ai)j)roached, 
wolves  and  antelo[)es  bounded  away  through  the  tall 
grass  around  them,  and  Hocks  of  large  white  ])lover  Hew 
screaming  over  their  surface.  Having  failed  of  the  ante- 
lope, Raymond  tried  his  hand  at  the  birds,  with  the  same 
ill-success.  The  water  also  disappointed  us.  Its  nuirgin 
was  so  mired  by  the  crowd  of  buflido  that  our  timorous 
animals  were  afraid  to  ap))roach.  So  we  turned  away 
and  moved  towards  the  hills.  The  rank  grass,  where  it 
was  not  trampled  down  by  the  buHalo,  fairly  swept  our 
horses'  necks. 

Again  we  found  the  same  execrable  l)arren  jtrairie 
ulTering  no  clew  by  which  to  guide  our  way.  As  we  drew 
near  the  hills,  an  o{)ening  apjicared,  through  which  the 
Indians  nuist  have  gone  if  they  had  passed  that  way  at 
all.  Slowly  we  began  to  ascend  it.  1  felt  the  incxst 
dreary  forel)odings  of  ill-success,  when  on  looking  round 
I  could  discover  neither  dent  of  hoof,  nor  foot})rlnt,  nor 
trace  of  lodge-})ole,  though  the  passage  was  encumbered 


(i 


\i 


lili  ;l 


i".  i   I 


jl  t*  s'i  '.J 


188 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


by  tlio  skulls  of  bufftilo.  Wc  heard  tliuiiJcr  muttering  ; 
another  storm  was  eoming  on. 

As  we  giiincd  tlie  to})  of  the  gap,  tlic  prospect  beyond 
began  to  disclose  itself.  First,  we  saw  a  long  dai'k  11  lu; 
of  ragg(>d  clouds  upOn  the  I'orizon,  wliile  above  them  rose 
the  {)eaks  of  the  Medicine-IJow  range,  the  vanguard  of 
tlie  Rocky  Mountains;  then  little  by  little  the  jilaiii  canie 
into  view,  a  vast  green  uniformity,  ibrlorn  and  tenantless, 
though  Laramie  Creek  glistened  in  a  waving  line  over  its 
surface,  without  a  bush  or  a  tree  upon  its  baidcs.  As  yet, 
the  round  ])rojecting  shoulder  of  a  hill  interce})ted  a  part 
of  the  view.  1  rode  in  advance,  when  suddeidy  1  could 
distinguish  a  few  dark  spots  on  the  jirairie,  along  the 
bank  of  the  stream. 

"  Buffalo  !  "  said  I. 

"  Horses,  bv  God  !  "  exclaimed  Ravmond,  lashin<''  his 
mule  forward  as  he  spoke.  ^lorc  and  more  of  the  ])lain 
disclosed  itself,  and  more  and  more  horses  aj^peared, 
scattered  along  the  river  bank,  or  feeding  in  ])ands  over 
the  prairie.  Then,  standing  in  a  circle  by  the  stream, 
swarming  with  their  savage  inhabitants,  we  saw,  a  mile 
or  more  off,  the  tall  lodges  of  the  Ogillallah.  Never  did 
the  heart  of  wanderer  more  gladden  at  the  sight  of  home 
than  did  mine  at  the  sight  of  that  Indian  camp. 


i '  Mili 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


t  . 

II 

1 

:i 

THE   or.  I  Ll  ALLAH    VILLAGE. 


nPIJL^  is  liardly  the  place  lor  portraying  the  mental 
-*-  leatures  of  the  Indians.  The  same  picture,  slightly 
changed  in  shade  and  coloring,  W(nild  serve  witli  very  few 
cxce[)tions  lor  all  the  tribes  north  of  the  Mexican  terri- 
tories. l)Ut  with  this  similarity  in  their  modes  of  thought, 
the  tribes  of  ihe  lake  and  ocean  shores,  of  the  forests 
and  of  the  ])lains,  differ  greatly  in  their  manner  of  life. 
Having  been  domesticated  for  several  weeks  unKjng  one 
of  the  wildest  of  the  hordes  that  roam  over  the  remote 
prairies,  I  had  unusual  o])portunities  of  observing  them, 
and  flatter  myself  that  a  sketch  of  the  scenes  that  i)assed 
daily  before  my  eyes  may  not  be  devoid  of  interest. 
They  were  thorough  savages.  Neither  their  manners  nor 
their  iileas  were  in  the  slightest  degree  modified  by  con- 
tact with  civilization.  They  knew  nothing  of  the  power 
and  real  character  of  tlie  white  men,  and  their  ehildreii 
would  scream  in  terror  when  they  saw  me.  Their  relig- 
ion, superstitions,  and  j)rejudices  were  the  same  handed 
down  to  them  from  immemorial  time.  They  fought  with 
the  weapons  that  their  fathers  fought  with,  and  wore  the 
same  garments  of  skins.  They  wei'C  living  representa- 
tives of  the  "  stone  age;*'  for  though  their  lances  and 
arrows  were  tipped  with  iron  procured  from  the  traders, 
they  still  used  the  rude  stone  mallet  of  the  })rimcval 
world. 


N?fi« 


h  ' 


(   .1 


(I   ^ 


ill' 


III  I 


190 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


Croat  clinuircs  arc  at  liaiid  in  lliat  i-cuioii.  Willi  the 
stream  of  (Muiurntioii  to  Orouon  au'.l  (yalifoniia,  tlic  huCralo 
will  (hviiullc  away,  and  the  larfrc  wandcrinjr  coinimuiitios 
who  (lepciul  on  them  for  support  nuist  lie  hroken  and 
scaltcicd.  'I'lic  Indians  will  soon  lie  aliased  liy  whiskey 
and  overawed  Iiy  military  jiosts ;  so  ihat  within  a  I'cw 
veai's  the  ti'aveller  mav  i)ass  in  tolerahh'  securitv  throu<!h 
their  eoimtry.  Its  danger  and  its  charm  will  have  disap- 
jicared  together. 

As  soon  as  Raymond  and  I  discovered  tlio  village  from 
tlic  gaj)  in  the  hills,  wc  were  seen  in  our  turn  :  keen  eyes 
were  constantly  on  the  watch.  As  we  rode  down  upon 
the  ]ilain,  the  side  of  the  vilhige  nearest  us  was  darkened 
with  a  crowd  of  naked  figures.  Several  men  came  tor- 
ward  to  meet  us.  I  could  distinguish  among  them  the 
green  lilanket  of  the  Frenchman  Keynal.  When  we  came 
U]i  the  ceremony  of  shaking  hands  had  to  he  gone  through 
in  due  form,  and  then  all  were  eager  to  know  what  had 
liccome  of  the  rest  of  my  jiarty.  I  satisfied  them  on  this 
point,  and  wc  all  moved  together  towards  the  village. 

"-  You've  missed  it,"  said  Kevnal ;  ''  if  vouM  heeii  licrc 
dav  licfore  vcstcrdav,  vou'd  have  found  the  whole  ])rairic 
over  yonder  Mack  with  Imftiilo  as  far  as  you  could  see. 
There  were  no  cows,  though;  nothing  hut  hulls.  Wc 
made  a  'surround'  every  day  till  yesterday.  Sec  the 
village  there;  don't  that  look  like  good  living?" 

\n  fact  I  could  see,  even  at  that  distance,  long  cords 
stretched  from  lodge  to  lodge,  over  which  the  meat,  cut 
by  the  squaws  into  thin  sheets,  was  hanging  to  dry  in  tlic 
sun.  I  noticed  too  that  the  village  was  somewhat  small- 
er than  when  1  had  last  seen  it,  and  I  asked  Eeynal  the 
cause,  lie  said  that  old  Le  l>orgne  had  felt  too  weak  to 
pass  over  the  mountains,  and  so  had  remained  behind 
with  all  his  relations,  includintr  ^lahto-Tatouka  and  his 


THE    OGILLALLAII    VII.LACiK. 


1J)1 


brothers.     Tlic  Wliirlwiiul    too   liad    Ix'cii    iiiiwilliiiu-   to 


come   so 


fill 


iteciHiso 


as 


U( 


cvnal    said 


he    was    a 


iVaid. 


Only  half  a  dozen  lodges  liad  adlicivd  lo  liiiu,  llie  inaiii 
body  of  llio  viUau-e  sctliiiij;  llicir  cliiefs  aiitliority  at 
nauulit,  and  taking  the  course  most  agrcealde  to  their 
incHnations. 

"  What  chiefs  are  there  in  the  vilhiue  now?"  asked  I. 

"Well,"  said  Reynal,  "  there's  old  Red-Water,  and  tlic 
Ea.irle-Feather,  und  the  Bitr  Crow,  and  the  Mad  Wolf,  and 
The    Panther,  and  the   White-Shield,   and  —  what's    his 


name 


the  half-breed  Shienne. 


J>y  this  time  we  were  close  to  the  village,  and  1  oli- 
scrved  that  while  t'le  <ri'eatei"  jtart  of  the  lodges  wei-e  very 
largo  and  neat  in  their  a]>)»caranee,  there  was  at  one  side 
a  cluster  of  squalid,  niiseral)le  huts.  1  looked  towards 
them,  and  made  some  remark  al)out  their  wretched  a})- 
pcarancc.     J]ut  I  was  touching  upon  delicate  ground. 

"My  scjuaw's  relations  live  in  those  lodges."  said  Rey- 
nal, very  warmly  ;  "  and  there  isn't  a  better  set  in  tho 
whole  village." 

"  Arc  there  any  chiefs  among  them  ?  " 

"  Chiefs  ?  "  said  Reynal ;  "  yes,  plenty 

"  What  arc  their  names  ?  " 

"Their  names?  Whv,  there's  the  Arrow-IIead.  If 
he  isn't  a  chief  ho  ought  to  bo  one.  And  there's  the 
Ilail-Siorm.     He's  nothing  but  al)ov,  to  be  sure  ;  but  Ji 


I  " 


'n 


V.  s 


bound  to  1)0  a  chief  one  of  these  days." 

Just  then  wo  passed  between  two  of  the  lodges,  and 
entered  the  groat  area  of  the  village.  Superb,  naked  fig- 
ures stood  silontlv  gazinu*  on  us. 

Where's  the  T5ad  Wound's  lodiro?"  said  I  to  Revnal. 


c; 


u 


Tl 


lore  vou'vo  mis 


>sed  it  a^rain  I     The   iJad  Wound  \i 


away  with  The  Whirlwind.     If  you  could  have  found  him 
hero,  and  gone  to  live  in  his  lodge,  he  would  have  treated 


I    • 


11 


■t'! 


\\  1 


"i  f 


I  !  It  !■  1. 


•■ 

<( 

w 


192 


THE    OllKOON    TRAIL. 


you  bettor  tlian  any  man  in  tlin  villairo.  But  tliorc's  tlio 
J>i^  Crow's  1()(1^(;  yonder,  next  to  old  Red-Waler's.  He's 
a  <!:ood  Indian  I'or  tlu!  wliites,  and  1  advise  you  to  go  and 
live  witli  him." 

"  Are  tliere  many  squaws  and  cliildren  in  his  h)(lge  ?  " 
said  1. 

"  No  ;  only  one  squaw  and  two  or  tln-ec  children.  lie 
keeps  the  rest  in  a  separate  lodge  by  themselves." 

So,  still  lollowcd  by  a  crowd  of  Jndians,  Raymond  and 
I  rode  up  to  the  entrance  of  the  Dig  Crow's  lodge.  A 
sipiaw  came  out  immediately  and  took  our  horses.  I  jmt 
aside  the  leather  flaj)  that  covered  the  low  opening,  and 
ato()])ing,  entered  the  P>ig  Crow's  dwelling.  There;  1  could 
see  the  chief  in  the  dim  light,  seated  at  one  side,  on  a  pile 
of  l)u(Ialo-robes.  He  greeted  me  with  a  guttural  "•  Jiow, 
coh\I"  1  requested  Reynal  io  tell  him  that  Raymond 
and  I  were  come  to  live  with  him.  Tlu;  Rig  Crow  gave 
another  low  exclamation.  The  amiomieement  may  seem 
intrusive,  but,  in  fact,  every  Indian  in  the  village  would 
have  deenuMl  himself  honored  that  white  men  sliould  give 
such  i)reference  to  his  hospitality. 

The  sepiaw  s|)read  a  l)uffalo-robe  for  us  in  tlie  guest's 
place  at  the  head  of  the  lodge.  Our  saddles  were  brought 
in,  and  scarcely  were  we  seated  u))on  them  before  the 
place  was  thronged  with  Indians,  crowding  in  to  sec  us. 
The  Rig  Crow  })roduced  his  jiipe  and  filled  it  with  the 
mixture  of  tobacco  and  shotif/Ka.^ha,  or  red  willow  bark. 
Round  and  round  it  passed,  and  a  lively  conversation  went 
forward.  Meariwhile  a  S(]uaw  placed  before  the  two  guests 
a  wooden  bowl  of  boiled  buffalo-meat ;  but  unhap|)ily  this 
was  not  the  only  ))anquet  destined  to  be  inflicted  on  us. 
One  after  another,  boys  and  young  S(puiws  thrust  their 
heads  in  at  the  ojiening,  to  invite  us  to  various  feasts  in 
different  parts  of  the  village.     For  half  an  hour  or  more 


s  the 
lie's 
)  and 


go?" 


,     lie 

(1  and 
;c.     A 

I  jUlt 

(T,  and 
I  could 
I  a  pile 

'  How, 

yniond 
w  jjave 
y  scorn 
would 
Id  uive 


THE    OGILLALLAII    VILLAGE. 


11)3 


wc  were  actively  enj::ajrod  in  passiiii;'  from  lodj^c  to  lod^'o, 
lastinjr  in  each  of  the  howl  of  meat  set  before  us,  and 
inlialiiijj;  a  whill"  or  two  IVom  our  entertainer's  pipe.  A 
tliunder-stoi'm  tliat  had  l»een  threat<'nin<^  for  some  time 
now  hetian  in  jiood  earnest.  We  crossed  over  to  Rey- 
ual's  lod<i(',  tliouii'li  it  liardly  deservcMl  the  name,  for  it 
consisted  only  of  a  few  old  huflido-njhes,  suj)ported  on 
poles,  and  was  (piite  open  on  one  side.  Here  we  sat  down, 
and  the  Indians  ji-athercd  round  us. 

"  What  is  it,"  said  1,  "  that  makes  the  thunder  ?" 

"  It's  my  belief,"  said  Reynal,  "  that  it's  a  big  stone 
rolling  over  the  sky." 

'•  A'cry  likely,"'  1  rc[)licd  ;  "  but  I  want  to  know  what 
the  Indians  think  about  it." 

So  he  interpreted  my  (picstion,  which  produced  some 
debate.  There  Avas  a  difference  of  opinion.  At  last  old 
Meiic-Seela,  or  Re<l-Watcr,  who  sat  by  himself  at  one 
side,  looked  uj)  with  his  withered  face,  and  said  he  had 
iiUvavs  known  what  the  thunder  was.  It  was  a  u'reat 
Itlark  bird  ;  and  once  he  had  seen  it,  in  a  dream,  swoop- 
ing down  from  the  Rlack  Hills,  with  its  loud  roaring 
wings  ;  and  when  it  happed  them  over  a  lake,  they  struck 
lightning  from  the  water. 

'•  The  thunder  is  bad,"  said  another  old  man,  who  sat 
nniflled  in  his  butlalo-robe ;  ''  he  killed  my  brother  last 
sunnner." 

Reynal,  at  my  request,  asked  for  an  explanation  ;  but 
the  old  man  remained  doggedly  silent,  and  would  not 
look  up.  Some  time  after,  I  learned  how  the  a^'cident 
occurred.  The  man  who  was  killed  belonged  to  an  asso- 
ciation which,  among  other.mystic  functions,  claimed  the 
exclusive  j)Ower  and  privilege  of  lighting  the  thunder. 
Whenever  a  storm  which  tlicy  wished  to  avert  was  threat- 
ening, the  thunder-lighters  would  take  their  bows  and 

13 


1  fll  Bh 

I 
'1          1  i 

■'       j^ 

'    i!;ir 


I  ■  I  ■ 


I        J 


if  I 


194 


Tin:    OR  KG  ON    TRAIL. 


'■  i 


ill 


l!l  ! 


arrows,  flicir  ^•ims,  tlicir  iiinLnc  <li"uiii,  ninl  a  sort  of 
^vllisll(^  iiiiidc  out  ol*  the  \viii^''-lKmo  of  the  uai'-cii'jlc,  and, 
tluis  ('(|iii|»|KMl.  iMiii  out  and  lii'c  at  the  rlsinu'  (doiid,  \vlioo|>- 
ill,L^  y('llillL^  whistliiiir,  and  healiiifi;  tlicir  (liMini,to  IViulitrn 
it  down  aLiniii.  One  aftcM-noon,  a  lioavy  black  cloud  was 
coniinu'  np,  and  tlicy  rcj>aircd  to  tlio  top  of  a  liill,  wlicic 
tlicy  lii'ouulit  all  their  inajjjic!  artillery  into  j)lay  a<rainst  it. 
]»nt  the  undaunted  thinider,  refusin<r  to  he  tei'rilied, 
darted  out  a  liritiht  Hash,  which  struck  one  ol"  the  j)arty 
dead  as  he  was  in  the  very  act  of  sluikinti'  his  iouu'  ii-on- 
poiutcd  lance  auainst  it.  The  rest  scattered  and  ran  yellin^^ 
in  an  ecstasy  of  su))erstitious  teri-or  hack  to  theii"  lodii'es. 
The  lodii'e  of  my  liost  Kouii'ra  Tonira,  or  the  liijx  Crow, 
presented  a  picturesque  spectacle  that  evening.  A  score 
or  more  of  Indians  were  seated  around  it  in  a  circle,  their 
dark  naked  forms  just  visible  \)y  the  dull  lijiht  of  the 
smoulderinir  lli'e  in  the  middle.  The  pijie  ulowed  bri<2;htly 
in  the  o-h)om  as  it  ])assed  from  liand  to  hand.  Then  a 
squaw  woidd  drop  a  })iecc  of  buffalo-fat  on  the  didl  em- 
bers. Instantly  a  briiiht  flame  would  leap  uj),  dartinji'  its 
lif^ht  to  tlie  very  apex  of  the  tall  conical  structui'e,  where 
the  tops  of  the  slender  poles  that  sup))orted  the  coverinj^ 
of  hide  were  tiathered  toirether.  It  <j,ilded  the  features 
of  the  Indians,  as  with  animated  jrestures  they  sat  around 
it,  tellinji'  their  endless  stories  of  war  and  hnntinu'.  and 
disiilaved   rude   u'arments  of  skins  that  hunsx  around  the 

it.'*  ' 

lodue  :  the  ])0W,  quiver,  and  lance,  suspended  over  the 
restinu-place  of  the  chief,  and  the  rifles  and  powder-horns 
of  the  two  white  truests.  For  a  moment  all  would  be 
briii'ht  as  day:  then  the  flames  would  die  out;  fitful 
flashes  from  the  eml)ers  Avould  illumine  the  lodue,  and 
then  leave  it  in  darkness.  Then  the  lij^'ht  would  wholly 
fade,  and  the  lodge  and  all  w^ithin  it  be  involved  again  in 
obscurity. 


THE    Or.II.T.AILAH    VIT,I,Af:E. 


195 


As  I  left  ilio  l(»(l,L'"o  next  moniiii^,  I  wns  siiliifod  l>y 
liowliiiii;  iiiul  yolpiii^  iill  around  the  vilhiiic.  .'iiid  liiill"  i(s 
ciiniiic  popidiition  rushed  forth  to  (he  iillack.  I'.ciiii:'  as 
('o\vai'(llv  as  thcv  wci'o  (damorous,  tlicv  kept  jiiinitiiiir 
alioul  nic  at  the  distance  of  a  lew  yards,  only  one  litth^ 
eiM',  aliout  ten  inches  hjtiii',  liavinii"  spirit  enon«:h  to  make 
a  (hrect  ass.anlt".  He  dashed  vahantly  at  the  leather  tass(d 
which  ill  tlie  Dahcotah  I'ashion  was  ti-ailinii'  lichind  \\\{\ 
jieel  ol"  my  moccasin,  and  kept  his  hold.  liiowliuL;'  and 
snarlinir  all  the  while,  thon<^h  cveiy  step  1  made  almost 
jerked  him  over  on  his  hack.  As  1  knew  that  the  eyes 
ol"  the  whole  villati'c  wei'c  on  the  watch  to  see  il"  1  showed 
any  si<in  of  fear,  1  walked  forward  without  lookint:'  to  the 
ii;iht  or  left,  surrounded  wherever  I  went  hy  this  ma^:ic 
circle  of  dotrs.  When  \  came  to  KeynaTs  loduc  I  sat 
down  hy  it,  on  whi(di  the  dotrs  disj)ersed  trrowlinir  to  their 
respective  quarters.  Oidy  one  larire  white  one  remained, 
nnmintr  ahout  heforc  me  and  showinj]^  his  teeth.  1  called 
liini.  hut  he  oidy  ,<,n"ov,ded  the  more.  I  looked  at  him 
well.  He  was  fat  and  ^leek ;  just  such  a  dot:'  as  1  wanted. 
"My  friend,"  thought  I,  ''you  shall  ]»ay  for  this  I  1  will 
have  you  eaten  this  very  morninjz;!  " 

1  intended  that  day  to  uivc  the  Indians  a  feast,  hy  way 
of  couveyinsr  a  favorahle  impression  of  my  chai'acter  and 
ditiiiity  ;  and  a  white  dou'  is  the  dish  Avhicdi  the  customs 
of  the  Dahcotali  prescriho  for  all  occasions  of  foi  niality 
and  impoi'tance.  1  consulted  Reynal :  he  soon  discovered 
that  an  ohl  woman  in  the  next  lod<re  was  owner  of  the 
white  (\o<x.  I  took  a  g'audy  cotton  handkerchief,  and, 
hiyintr  it  on  tlic  irround.  arrauf^ed  some  vermilion,  heads, 
and  other  trinkets  upou  it.  Then  the  old  squaw  was  sum- 
moned. 1  poiuted  to  the  do<^  and  to  the  handkeichicf. 
She  crave  a  scream  of  deliuht,  snatched  up  the  prize,  and 
vanished  with  it  into  her  lodge.     For  a  few  more  trifles, 


i 


1 


Wi 


'■■^  ,; 


)'  ?l! 


Nllii 


■  t  il  ; 


I 


VJ{j 


TiiL  oui:gon  trail. 


Ilir 


I  ('M'Z!it''('<l  llic  services  of  two  oilier  Siiuaws,  eaeli  of  wliom 
took  llic  wliito  (lojr  by  one  of  lii«  juinvs,  and  led  iuni  uwiiy 
heliind  iIk;  loducs.  Jhivinj^  killed  him  tliey  tlir(!\v  Iiini 
into  a  lire  to  sinj^e  ;  then  elio|i|)ed  him  np  and  pnt  him 
into  two  hir;i(!  kettles  to  boil.  Meanwhile  1  told  Kiiymoiul 
to  fry  in  ludl'alo  fat  what  little  Hour  we  had  lel't,  and  also 
to  make  a  kettle  of  tea  as  an  additioiuil  luxury. 

The  Hig'  Crow's  sijuaw  was  briskly  at  work  swecpini; 
out  the  lodjie  for  the  approaehin<i;  fe.-tivity.  1  eonfidcd 
to  my  host  himself  the  task  of  inviting  the  guests,  think- 
ing that  1  might  thereby  shift  from  my  own  shoulders  the 
odiinn  of  negleet  and  oversight. 

When  feasting  is  in  (juestion,  one  hour  of  the  day  serves 
an  Indian  as  well  as  another.  My  entertainment  came  oil" 
at  al)out  eleven  o'clock.  At  that  hour,  Reynal  and  Hay- 
niond  walked  at-ross  the  area  of  the  village,  to  the  admi- 
ration of  the  inhabitants,  cai'rying  the  two  kettles  of  dog 
meat  slung  on  a  pole  between  them.  These  they  j)laced 
in  the  centre  of  the  lodge,  and  then  went  back  for  the 
bread  and  the  tea.  Meanwliile  1  had  put  on  a  pair  of 
brilliant  moccasins,  and  substituted  for  my  old  buck-skin 
frock  a  coat  which  1  had  brought  with  me  in  view  of  such 
public  o  casions.  1  also  made  careful  use  of  the  razor, 
an  o])eration  which  no  man  will  neglect  who  desires  to 
gain  the  gootl  opinion  of  Indians.  Thus  attired,  I  seated 
myself  between  Reynal  and  Raymond  at  the  head  of  the 
lodge.  Only  a  few  minutes  elapsed  before  all  the  guests 
had  come  in  and  were  seated  on  the  ground,  ^vedged  to- 
gether in  a  close  circle.  Each  brought  with  him  a  wooden 
bowl  to  hold  his  share  of  the  repast.  When  all  were 
assembled,  two  of  the  officials  called,  "soldiers"  by  the 
white  men.  came  forward  with  ladles  made  of  the  horn 
of  the  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  and  began  to  distriljute  the 
feast,  assigning  a  double  share  to  the  old  men  and  chiefs. 


! 


THE    OGILLALLAH    Vn.LAOF,. 


197 


'      4 


The  (lojr  vanished  witli  astonisliinjjf  ccUM'ity,  and  eueh 
^nicst  tiinied  his  disli  bottdiu  upward  to  show  that  all  wum 
jioiic.  Then  the  hread  was  distriladed  in  its  turn,  and 
linally  the  tea.  As  the  "  soldiers "  ))oured  it  out  into  the 
same  wooden  liowls  that  had  served  lor  (he  substantial 
|iai'l  of  the  meal,  1  thonjiht  it  had  a  particularly  curious 
and  uninviting  color. 

"Oh,"  said  iJcynal,  "there  was  not  tea  enouuh,  so  I 
stirred  some  soot,  in  the  kettle,  to  make  it   look  stroni:." 

Foitunatelv  an  Indian's  palate  is  not  vcrv  discriminat- 
iiiu'.  The  tea  was  well  sweetened,  and  that  was  all  thev 
cared  ("or. 

Now,  the  feast  be  in*?  over,  the  time  for  speech-niakinfi; 
was  come.  The  JJi^  Crow  produced  a  tlat  |)iece  of  wood 
on  wliieh  he  cut  up  tobacco  and  shoiif/Kasha,  and  mixed 
tliem  in  due  ]iroportions.  The  pipes  were  filled  and 
]<assed  from  hand  to  hand  around  the  company.  Then 
1  be^ran  my  speech,  each  sentence  bein<j:  intcrpietcd  by 
lleyiuil  as  I  went  on,  and  echoed  by  tlie  whole  audience 
Avith  the  usual  exclamations  of  assent  and  ajjproval.  As 
nearly  as  1  can  recollect,  it  was  as  follows:  — 

"1  had  come,"  I  told  them,  "from  a  country  so  far 
distant,  that  at  the  rate  they  travel,  they  could  not  reach 
it  in  a  year." 

"How!  how!" 

"  There  the  Meneaska  were  more  numerous  than  the 
blades  of  orass  on  the  prairie.  The  squaws  were  far  more 
beautiful  than  any  they  had  ever  seen,  and  all  the  men 
were  Itrave  warriors." 

"How!  how!  how!" 

I  was  assailed  by  twinjres  of  conscience  as  I  uttered 
these  last  words.  But  1  recovered  myself  and  began 
again. 

"  While  I  was  living  in  the   Meneaska  lodges,  I  had 


ill 


It 


Bid  i! 


Hi 


l!)H 


THi;    OHEGON    TRAIL. 


IiciiimI  i.rilic  O^illalliili,  liow  ^Tcut  iiikI  hruvo  ii  iintioii  they 
were,  liow  tiK'y  loved  tlic  wliih's,  mid  how  well  ihcy  could 
hunt  the  Itiil'lldo  and  strike  thuir  tMiemics.  I  resolved  to 
come  :ii>d  see  if  all  that  1  hoard  was  true." 


ii 


ow 


MOW 


liow 


how 


!  " 


'*  As  1  jiad  come  on  liorseitaek  throiijih  the  moimtaiiis, 
I  iiad  heoii  aide  to  h'riii^  them  only  a  very  few  presents.  ' 


ow 


t    V 


"11 

"  iJut  1  had  enoniih  tohacco  to  give  them  all  a  small 
|)i(u,'e.  'I'hey  miiilit  smoke  it  and  see  how  mn(di  better  it 
was  than  the  tobacco  which  they  g'ot  from  the  traders." 

'•  Now!   howl  how  :" 

"  1  had  ph.'iity  of  |>owder,  lead,  knives,  and  toliacco  at 
Kort  Laramie.  Tlu-se  1  was  anxious  to  give  them,  and 
if  any  of  them  should  come  to  the  fort  before  1  went  away, 
1  would  make  them  handsome  |>resents 


'J 


How  !  how  I  how  I  how 


I  " 


Raymond  then  cut  up  and  distributed  among  them  two 
or  three  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  old  Mene-Seela  began  to 
nuike  a  rej»ly.  It  was  long,  but  the  following  was  the 
pith  of  it. 

"  lie  had  always  loved  tlu;  whites.  'I'hey  were;  the 
wisest  people  on  earth,  lie  believed  they  could  do  any 
thing,  and  In;  was  always  glad  when  any  of  them  came  to 
live  in  the  Ogillallah  lodges.  It  was  true  1  had  not  nuide 
them  many  presents,  but  the  reason  of  it  was  j)lain.  Jt 
wa.s  clear  that  J  liked  them,  or  1  never  should  have  come 
so  far  to  (ind  their  village." 

Several  other  speeches  of  similar  import  followed,  and 
then  this  moi'e  serious  matter  being  disposed  of,  there  was 
an  interval  of  smoking,  laughing,  and  conversation.  Old 
Mene-Seela  suddenly  interrupted  it  with  a  loud  v(jice  :  — 

"  \ow  is  a  good  time,"  he  said,  "  when  all  ihe  old  men 
and  chiefs  are  here  together,  to  decide  what  the  people 


Till:    (XilLi.Ai.l.Ml    Vil.i..V(ii:. 


li)i) 


sliiill  i|i>.  \\'(>  caiiic  (iv(  r  the  luoiiiitiiiiiM  lo  iiiuk<>  mii' 
loilucs  for  lu'Xt  year.  Our  dM  ones  urt3  ^'ood  Inr  nuiliiny;; 
they  lire  rultcii  uidI  \V(»rii  out.  Mill  we  liav«-  lit'cii  (lisii|H 
|Hiiiilcil.  \\'t>  liiivc  killcil  Itiirialii-liiiUs  ciioiii^li,  Init  wu 
have  luuiid  no  hcids  of  cows,  and  the  skins  of  liiill.s  uro 
too  thick  and  Iii-unv  I'or  our  s([uaws  to  make  lod;;('.s  of. 
Tlicic  must  lie  plenty  ol'  cows  al»ont  the  Medicine  Dow 
Mountain.  We  on;;lit  to  ^o  tlitnv.  To  lie  sure  it  is  far- 
ther weslwai'(|  than  we  have  e\cr  heeii  lietoi'e,and  |»erha|is 
the  Snakes  will  attack  us,  I'or  those  linntin;j,-^rounds 
helon,u'  to  them.  IJut  we  nnist  have  nt;w  lodjics  at  any 
rate;  our  old  ones  will  not  servo  lor  another  year.  Wo 
ouiilit  not  to  lie  afraid  of  tlu;  Snakes.  Our  warriors  ai'o 
hravo,  and  they  are  all  ready  for  wai-.  Ilesides,  we  havo 
three  white  men  with  their  rifles  to  lielp  us." 

'i'liis  speech  produced  a  ^ood  deal  of  debate.  As  Rey- 
iial  did  not  interpret  what  was  said,  i  could  only  juil,i;o 
i)['  the  meanini;'  hy  tho  features  and  gestures  of  the 
speakers.  At  tin,'  end  of  it  however  the  greater  number 
seemed  tu  ha\'e  fallen  in  with  Mene-Seela's  opinion.  A 
short  silence  followed,  and  then  the  old  man  struck  up  a 
discordant  chant,  which  I  was  told  was  a  sung  uf  thanks 
for  the  entertainment  1  had  given  them. 

"  Now,"  said  he,  "let  us  go  and  give  the  white  men  u 
chance  to  breathe." 

So  the  (Company  all  dispersed  into  the  o|»en  air,  and  for 
some  time  the  old  chief  was  walking  round  the  village, 
singing  his  song  in  praise  uf  the  feast,  after  the  custom 
of  the  nation. 

At  last  the  day  drew  to  a  close,  and  as  the  smi  went 
down  the  horses  came  trooping  from  the  surrounding 
plains  to  be  picketed  before  the  dwellings  of  their  respec- 
tive masters.  Suun  within  the  great  circle  of  lodges  ap- 
|»cared  anuther  concentric  circle  of  restless  horses;  and 


y 


(» 


f  ■ 

I    ! 


IjIBtKftii  r  T'l r  11  iiinii  mil 


200 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


ta.?'- 


i*  ' 


here  and  (lioro  fires  glowed  and  flickered  amid  ilie  gloom, 
on  the  dusky  figures  around  them.  I  went  over  and  sat 
hy  the  hnlge  of  Reynal.  The  Kaglc-Feather,  who  was  a 
son  of  ]\IeiH'-Seehi,  and  hrother  of  my  host  the  Big  Crow, 
was  seated  there  already,  and  1  ask(>d  him  if  tlu;  villasic 
would  move  in  the  morning.  He  shook  his  head,  and 
said  that  nobody  could  tell,  lor  since  old  Mahlo-Tatoiika 
had  died,  the  people  had  been  like  children  that  did  not 
know  their  own  minds.  Thev  were  no  belter  than  a  liodv 
without  a  head.  So  1,  as  well  as  the  Indians  themselves, 
fell  asleep  that  night  without  knowing  whether  we  should 
set  out  in  the  morning  towards  the  country  of  the  Snakes. 
At  dayltreidv  however,  as  1  was  coming  n\)  IVom  the 
river  after  my  morning's  ablutions,  1  saw  that  a  move- 
ment was  contemplated.  Some  of  the  hedges  were  I'c- 
duced  to  nothing  but  bare  skeletons  of  poles;  the  leather 
covering  of  others  was  flapping  in  the  wind  as  the  sipiaws 
pulleil  it  oif.  One  or  two  chiefs  of  note  had  resolved,  it 
seemed,  on  moving;  and  so  having  set  their  stpiaws 
at  work,  the  examj)le  was  followed  by  the  rest  ol  the 
villau'e.  One  bv  one  the  lodues  were  sinkinti"  down  in 
raj)id  succession.  a,nd  where  the  gr?at  circle  of  the  village 
had  been  only  a  few  moments  before,  nothing  now  I'c- 
mainod  but  a  ring  of  horses  and  Indians,  crowded  in 
confusion  together.  'J'he  ruins  of  the  lodges  were  spi'(>ad 
over  the  ground,  together  with  kettles,  stone  mallets, 
great  ladles  of  horn,  buffalo-robes,  and  cases  of  painted 
hide,  filled  with  dried  meat.  Squaws  bustled  al)out  in 
busy  preparation,  the  old  hags  screaming  to  one  another 
at  the  stretch  of  their  leathern  lungs.  The  shaggy  horses 
were  ])atiently  standing  while  the  lodge-poles  were  lashed 
to  tiieir  sides,  and  the  baggage  piled  upon  their  barks. 
The  dous,  with  tonuues  lollinir  out,  lav  lazilv  nantinu',  and 

C  l  I  •  t  I  > 

waiting  for  the  time  of  departure.     Each  wari'ior  sat  on 


1 

III  IB  WWi 

■  11     9«  n^ 

•p 

III  IIImI 

H 

Ril  II  '  ) 

THE    OGILLALLAII    VILLAGE. 


201 


the  ground  by  (lie  decayiiiii;  emluTs  of  his  fire,  unmoved 
amid  the  (.'onrusion,  hoUliiig"  in  his  hand  the  lung  trail- 
roj)e  of  liis  horse. 

As  their  ))re|)arations  were  eompleted,  eaeh  family 
moved  oft'  the  ground.  The  erowd  was  rapidly  melting 
away.  1  could  sec  them  crossing  the  river,  and  jiassing 
in  (|uiek  succession  along  tli(>  prolile  of  the  liill  on  the 
I'arthei'  side.  When  all  were  gone,  1  mounted  and  set  out 
alter  them,  followed  hy  Raymond,  and,  as  we  gained  the 
smunuc,  the  whole  village  came  in  view  at  once,  sti-ag- 
gling  away  for  a  mile  or  more  over  the  barren  j)lains  before 
us.  Everywhere  glittered  the  iron  jwints  of  lances.  The 
sun  never  shone  ujton  a  more  strange  array.  Here  were 
the  heavy-huleu  ])ack-horses,  some  wretched  old  woman 
leading  them,  and  two  or  three  children  clinging  to  their 
backs.  Here  were  nudes  or  ])onies  covered  from  head  to 
tail  with  gaudy  trappings,  and  mounted  by  some  gay 
young  squaw,  grinning  bashfulness  and  pleasure  as  the 
Meneaska  looked  at  her.  Boys  with  miniature  bows  and 
arrows  wandered  over  the  ])lains,  little  naked  childr(Mi  ran 
along  on  foot,  and  numberless  dogs  scampered  among  the 
feet  of  the  horses.  The  young  braves,  gaudy  with  })aint 
and  feathers,  rode  in  grouj)S  among  the  crowd,  often  gal- 
l(/ping,  two  or  three  at  once  along  the  line,  to  try  the 
speed  of  their  horses.  Here  and  there  you  might  see 
a  rank  of  sturdy  ])cdestrians  stalking  along  in  theii'  white 
buffalo-robes.  These  were  the  dignitaries  of  the  village, 
the  old  men  and  warriors,  to  whose  age  and  exix'ricnce 
that  wandering  denioci'acy  viehled  a  silent  deference. 
With  the  rough  ])rairie  and  the  brcjken  hills  I'or  its  baidc- 
ground,  the  restless  scene  was  striking  and  )iictures(pie 
beyond  description.  Days  and  weeks  made  me  familiar 
with  it,  but  never  impaired  its  ellect  \i\Hm  my  fancy. 

As  we  moved  on,  the  broken  colunui  grew  yet  more 


if 


I   i; 


II  ■ 


w 


%■ 


202 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


scattered  and  disorderly,  until,  as  we  aj)|)roaclicd  the  foot 
oC  a  hill,  1  saw  the  old  men  hel'oi'e  nu'utioned  seating' 
Ihcniselves  in  a  line  u|ion  the  ground,  in  advance  of  the 
whole.  They  lighted  a  i)i|te  and  sat  smoking,  laughing, 
and  telling  stories,  while  the  ))eoj»le,  stopping  as  they 
succ('ssiv(dy  came  up,  were  soon  gathered  in  a  crowd 
hehind  them.  'JMien  the*  old  men  rose,  drew  their  hufl'alo- 
I'ohes  over  th(!ir  shoulders,  and  strode  on  as  liefore. 
(Gaining  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  tbund  a  steep  dcidivity 
before  us.  There  was  not  a  minute's  pause.  The  whole 
descendetl  in  a  mass,  amid  dust  and  (M)nfusion.  Tho 
horses  braced  their  feet  as  they  slid  d(nvn,  women  and 
children  screamed,  dogs  yelped  as  they  were  trodden  upon, 
while  stones  and  earth  went  rolling  to  the  bottom.  In 
a  few  moments  1  could  see  the  villaue  from  the  summit, 


spi'eading  again  far  and  wide  over  the  ])lain  l)elow. 

At  our  encampment  that  afternoon  1  was  attacked 
anew  l)y  my  old  disorder.  \\\  half  an  hour  tlu'  strength 
that  1  had  been  gaining  lor  a  week  past  had  vanished 
again,  and  1  became  like  a  man  in  a  di'eam.  Ihit  at 
sunset  1  lay  down  in  the  Big  Crow's  lodge  and  slejjt, 
totally  unconscious  till  the  morning.  The  first  thing 
that  awakened  me  was  a  hoarse  ilap})ing  over  my  head, 
and  a  sialden  light  that  poured  in  upon  me.     The  camp 


Wi 


s  iireaKuig  up,  anu  the  siiuaws  were  moving  tlie  cover- 
ing from  the  lodge.  1  arose  and  shook  off  my  blanket 
with   the   feeling  of   ))erfect  health;  but   scarcely  had   i 


aiiied    mv  feet  when  a   sense  of 


my 


hidol 


ess  condition 


w 


as    once   more   forced  upon  me,   and   1    found    myself 
scarcely  able  to  stand.      Raymond  had  brought  up   I'aul- 


ine  and 


he  mule 


a  IK 


I  1  St( 


oopetl  to  raise  my  s 


iuld.U 


[•oin 
i'ou 


the  ground.     !My  strength  was  une(|ual  to  the  task. 

nuist  saddle  her,"  said    1  to   Raymond,  as   1  sat  down 

again  on  a  pile   of   buftalo-robes.     lie  did  so,  and  with 


THE    OGILLALLAII    VILLAGE. 


203 


a  paiiiful  oftoi't  1   iiiountcLl.     As   wo   weru    pussing  over 
a   great    plain,    surrounded    by    long    bi'oken    ridges,    I 
rode  slowly    in   advanee    ol"    the    Indians  with    thoughts 
that  wandered    far  i'njui  the  time  and  the  plaee.      Sud- 
denly the  sky  darkened,  and   thunder  hegan  to  nuitter. 
Clouds  were   rising    over  the  hills,   as  dark  as  the  lirst 
lorchodings  of   an  approaehing  ealaniity  ;  and  in  a  mo- 
ment   all    around  was  wrap])cd    in    shadow,       1    hjc^ked 
behind.     The    Indians   had  stopj)ed   to    prepare   tor   tho 
approaching    storm,    and    tlu;    dense    mass    i^t    savages 
stretched  iar  to  the  right  and  lel't.     Since  the  lirst  at- 
tack of  njy  disorder  the  criects  of   rain    up(jn    me    had 
usually  been  hijurious  in  the  extreme.     1  had  no  strength 
to  Sparc,  having  at  that  mom<>nt  scarcely  enough  to  k(!ep 
my  seat  on  horseback.    Then,  for  the  lirst  time,  it  pressed 
upon  me  as  a  strong  prol)al)ility  that  I  ndght  never  leave 
those  deserts.    ''Well,"  thought  I  to  myself.  "  the  prairie 
makes  (juick  and  sharp  work.     IJctter  to  die  here,  in  the 
saddle  to  the  last,  than  to  stifle  in  the  hot  air  of  a  sick 
chamber;  and  a  thousand  times  better  than  to  drag  out 
life,  as  many  have  done,  in  the  helpless  inaction  of  linger- 
ing disease."     So,  drawing  the  bui]alo-rol)e  on  which  I 
sat,  over  my  head,  1  waited  till  the  storm  should  come. 
Jt  broke  at  last  with  a  sudden  burst  of  fury,  and  passing 
away  as  ra})idly  as  it  came,  left  the  sky  clear  again,     ^ly 
retiections  st'rved  me  no  other  pui'pose  than  to  look  back 
upon  as  a  })iece  of  curi(jus  expei'ience  ;  for  th(3  rain  did 
not  produce  the;  ill  effects  that  I  had  expected.      We  en- 
cam})ed  within  an  hour.     Having  no  c'hange  of  clothes,  I 
contrived   to   Ixjrrow   a  curious  kiiul  of  substitute;  from 
Keynal  ;  and  this  done,  1  went  home,  that  is,  to  the  l>ig 
Crow's  lodge,  to  make  the  entire  transfer  that  was  neces- 
sary.   Half  a  dozen  S(|uaws  wen;  in  the  lodge,  and  one  of 
them  taking  my  arm  held  it  against  her  own,  while  a  gcn- 


>ji 


f 


i 

I'll 


p. 


I ;  i 


lit; 


W 


204 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


f  i, 


li;  7.   (I  _  ■ 

t     . 

t 
■t 

1 

r  !   : 
I    1 

m\ 


cral  ]au<ili  and  scream  of  admiration  was  raised  at  the 
contrast  in  llie  color  of  (lie  skin. 

Onr  encamjinient  that  afternoon  was  not  far  from  a  spnr 
of  tlie  IMack  Hills,  whose  ridtics,  l»i-istlin.u'  with  fir  trees, 
rose  IVom  the  jdains  a  m\]v.  or  two  on  our  riuht.  'J'hat 
they  mi^ht  move  more  rapidly  towards  their  proixjsed 
huntinu-Lironnds,  the  Indians  determined  to  leave  at  this 
place  their  stock  of  dried  meat  and  other  snperflnous 
articles.  Some  left  even  their  lodues,  and  contented 
themselves  with  carryintr  a  i'vw  hides  to  make  a  shelter 
from  the  sun  and  rain.  Half  the  inhal>itants  set  out 
in  the  afternoon,  with  loaded  pack-horses,  towards  the 
mountains.  Here  they  sus})en(led  the  dried  meat  upon 
trees,  where  the  wolves  and  <rrizzly  hears  coidd  not  g'ct 
at  it.  All  returned  at  evening-.  Some  of  the  yomiLT  men 
declared  tliat  they  liad  heard  the  I'eports  of  <iuns  among 
tlie  mountains  to  the  eastward,  and  nuvny  surnuses  were 
thrown  out  as  to  the  origin  of  th(>se  sounds.  For  my 
part.  1  was  in  hopes  that  Shaw  and  Henry  Chatillon  were 
coming  to  join  us.  I  little  sus))ected  that  at  that  very 
moment  my  unlu(;ky  comrade  was  lying  on  a  huffalo-rol)e 
at  Fort  Laramie,  fevered  with  ivy  jjoison,  and  solacing  his 
woes  with  toha(;co  and  Shaksjieare. 

As  Ave  moved  over  the  ])lains  on  the  next  morning, 
several  young  men  rode  ahout  the  country  as  scouts  ;  and 
at  length  v»e  began  to  see  them  occasionally  on  the  toi)S 
of  tlu^  hills,  shaking  their  rohes  as  a  signal  that  they  saw 
hulTalo.  Soon  after,  some  i>ulls  came  in  sight.  Jlorse- 
men  darted  away  in  jtnrsuit,  and  we  could  see  from  the 
distance  that  one  or  two  of  the  buffalo  were  killed.  Ray- 
mond suddenly  became  inspired, 

''This  is  the  country  for  m(> ! "  he  said;  "  if  I  could 
only  carry  the  buffalo  that  are  killed  liere  every  month 
down  to  St.  Louis,  Fd  make  my  fortune  in  one  winter. 


ij>n 


THE    OGILLALI.AH    VILLAGE. 


205 


I'd  ffrow  as  ricli  as  old  I*a])iii.  or  Mackenzie  eitlicr.  I 
call  this  llic  poor  man's  market.  When  I'm  hnn<i'ry,  I've 
only  ^'ot  to  take  my  rille  and  uo  ont  and  jict  hcttcr  meat 
than  the  rich  I'olks  down  helow  can  ^et,  with  all  their 
money.  Vou  won't  catch  ine  living  in  St.  Lunis  another 
winter." 

"No,"  said  Reynal,  "  you  had  hetter  say  that,  after 
you  and  your  Sj)anish  woman  almost  stai'ved  to  deatli 
there.  What  a  fool  you  were  ever  to  take  her  to  the 
settlements  I  '' 

'•  Your  Spaiush  woman':*"  said  I ;  '"  I  never  heard  of 
her  before.     Are  you  married  to  her?" 

''  No,"  answered  Raymond,  '*  the  priests  don't  marry 
their  women,  and  why  should  1  marry  mine  ?" 

This  honoralile  mention  of  the  Mexican  clergy  intro- 
duced the  subject  of  religion,  and  I  found  that  my  two 
associates,  in  connnon  with  other  white  men  in  that  coun- 
try, were  as  indifterent  to  their  future  welfare  as  men 
whose  lives  are  in  constant  peril  are  apt  to  be.  Raymond 
had  never  heard  of  the  Pope.  A  certain  bishop,  who 
lived  at  Taos  or  at  Santa  Fe.  embodied  his  lofiiest  idea  of 
an  ecclesiastical  dignitary.  Reynal  ol)served  that  a  priest 
had  been  at  Fort  Laramie  two  years  ago,  on  his  way  to 
the  Nez  Perce  mission,  and  that  he  had  confessed  all 
the  men  there,  and  given  them  absoluti(jn.  ''  1  got  a 
good  clearing  out  myself,  that  time,'' said  Reynal, '•  and 
I  reckon  that  will  do  for  me  till  1  go  down  to  the  settle- 
ments au'ain." 

Here  he  interruj)ted  himself  with  an  oath,  and  ex- 
claimed: '■'■Look!  look  I  The  '■Panther'  is  running 
an  antelope  !  *' 

The  l*anther.  on  his  black-and-white  horse,  one  of  the 
best  in  the  village,  came  at  full  speed  over  the  hill  in  hot 
}Rirsuit  of  an  antelo})e,  that  darted  away  like  lightning 


4 


!  K  I- 


J-  i 


.  '^'1 


206 


THE    OREGON    Til  A 1 1,. 


;i  ■1' 


boforo  liim.  Tlio  ntfciupf  wiis  iniido  in  mci'o  spoi't  aiul 
lirii\;i(l(),  lor  Ncry  few  iirc  tlic  lioi'scs  tlint  ;'!iii  for  a  iiio- 
mciit  ooni|»('(('  ill  swil'tiicss  with  this  little  nniiniil.  Tlic 
ant('lo|io  I'aii  (lown  tlio  liill  townrds  tlic  luiiiii  Itody  of  tlic 


IlKJ 


ians,  wlio  ■wci-e  luovinti'  over  tlio  phiin   ltd 


ow 


SI 


larp 


yolls  wci'c  ti'ivcii,  and  liorsonion  Liallo|i('d  out  to  iiit(>i'('oj)t 
Ills  tli^dit".  At  this  lie  tiii'iUMJ  sharply  to  tho  Icl't,  and 
sconrcd  away  with  sncli  s)){'0(l  that  he  distancdl  all  liis 
piii'snors,  ovon  tho  vanntod  horso  of  'J'lic  I'anthor  hinisolf. 
A  few  monionts  after,  avo  witnessed  a  more  sciious  sport. 
A  shaiiiry  huffalo-hnll  honnded  ont  from  a  neiiihhorinir 
lioUow,  and  close  heliind  him  cnme  a  slender  Indinn  hoy. 
ridinir  withont  stirrnps  or  saddle,  and  hishinir  his  entrer 
little  liorse  to  full  spee(l,  Yard  aftei*  yard  he  di'ew  closei- 
to  his  li'iu'nntic  victim,  thonu'h  the  hull,  with  his  shoi-t  toil 
erect  and  his  tontrnc  lollintr  out  a  foot  from  his  fonminj^' 
jaws,  was  straining-  his  unwieldy  streiifrth  to  the  utmost. 
A  moment  more,  and  tlie  hoy  wns  close  iilonn'side.  }i 
was  our  friend  the  Hail-Storm.  He  dropjied  the  rein  on 
his  horse's  neck,  and  jerked  an  ariow  like  lightning  from 
the  quiver  at  his  shoulder. 

"  I  tell  you,"  said  Keynal,  "  that  in  a  year's  time  that 
hoy  will  uiatch  the  l)est  hunter  in  the  villnge.  Thei-e,  he 
lias  given  it  to  liimi  —  nnd  there  goes  another  I  Y 
feel  well,  now.  old  l)ull,  don't  von,  with  two  nri 


on 


ows 


luc 


m  anothei 


oth 


t 


I 


I  fear 

Yes,  jum]i  at 


le- 


in  your  lights!     There,  he  has  given  hi 

how  the  Ilail-Storm  yells  when  he  shoots 

him  :  try  it  again,  old  fellow  I     You  may  juni})  all  day  1 

fore  you  get  your  horns  into  that  pony!'' 

The  linll  sprang  again  and  ngain  at  his  nssailant,  hut 
the  horse  kept  dodging  with  wonderful  celei'ity.  At  length 
the  hull  followed  up  his  attack  with  a  furious  rush,  and  the 
Ilail-Storm  Avas  put  to  flight,  the  shaggy  uionster  follow- 
ing close  liehind.     The  lioy  clung  in  his  scat  like  a  leech. 


THE    OC;iI,T, ALLAH    VirJ^AOK. 


'201 


anrl  socuro  in  llio  spood  of  liis  lilllo  ])niiy,  lookcii  round 
l()\var(ls  ns  iiml  lannlKMl,  In  :i  nioniont  he  was  iiu'iiin 
nl()ni::si(l('  jlic  Imll  who  was  now  (li'i\('n  lo  dcsiicration. 
His  oyclmlls  olni'cd  tlirouiih  liis  tan.ulcil  nianc  and  tlic 
lilood  (lew  (Voni  liis  nioulli  and  nostrils.  Tlius.  sliil  liat- 
llinu"  with  ('a(di  other,  llic  two  cncniios  (lisa[)|)('a,i'('d  over 
tho  hill. 

Many  of  the  Indians  rode  at  fnll  <ralloj)  towards  tlic 
spot.  Wv  (ollowcd  at  a  more  moderate  pace,  and  soon 
saw  the  hnll  lyiim'  dead  on  tho  side  of  the  hill.  The 
Indians  were  u'athered  around  him.  and  several  kiuves 
were  ali'cady  at  work.  IMiese  little  instruments  were 
plied  with  sueli  wonderful  address,  that  the  twisted  sinews 
were  eiit  a])art,  tho  ])onderous  honos  fell  asunder  as  if  liy 
niaii'ie,  and  in  a  moment  tho  vast  carcass  was  rcMluccil  to 
a  heap  of  bloody  ruins.  The  snrroundinir  Lironp  of 
savaircs  offered  no  verv  attractive  spectacle  to  a  civilized 
eyo.  Some  wore  crackinir  the  hntre  thiu'h-hones  and  de- 
vouring the  marrow  within  ;  others  were  cutting;  away 
]»ieces  of  tho  liver,  and  other  ap))rovod  morsels, and  swal- 
lowint)::  them  on  the  spot  with  the  appetite  of  wolves. 
The  (aces  of  most  of  them,  besmeared  with  blood  from 
ear  to  ear.  looked  irrim  and  horrible  enou,u;h.  My  friend 
the  White  Shield  proffered  me  a  marrow-bone,  soskiliully 
laid  open,  that  all  the  rich  substance  within  was  exposed 
to  view  at  once.  Another  Indian  held  out  a  lai'ge  pi('('(! 
of  the  delicate  lining  of  tho  paunch  ;  but  these  coui't(>iins 
offerinii's  I  betru'od  leave  to  decline.  I  noticed  one  lit  lie 
boy  who  was  wvy  busy  Avith  his  knife  about  the  jaws  and 
throat  of  the  l)ul"falo,  from  which  he  extracted  some 
morsel  of  ))ecnliar  delicacy.  It  is  but  fail-  to  say.  thsU 
oidy  certain  ))arts  of  the  animal  are  considered  eligible  in 
these  extempore  banquets. 

We  encamped  that  night,  and  marched  westward  through 


■ 


'!i 


- 


h 

1 

1 

1 

f'tl 

T 

f' 

>     '■]: 


m 


c     , 


j      11 


208 


THK    OREGON    TRAIL. 


\<  '■ 


the  greater  part  of  the  f()llo\vlji<2;  day.  On  the  next  nioni- 
iiig'  we  a^iiiii  resumed  our  journey.  It  was  llie  seven- 
teenth of  Julv,  unU'ss  mv  note-book  niish'ads  me.  At 
noon  w(.'  stopped  )ty  some  pools  of  rain-watei*,  and  in  the 
afternoon  apiin  set  forward.  Tliis  double  movement  was 
contrary  to  the  usual  practiee  of  the  Indians,  hut  all  were 
very  anxious  to  reacdi  the  hunting-;j;round,  kill  the  neces- 
sary numlier  of  hullalo,  and  retreat  as  soon  as  possible 
from  the  dangerous  nei«;hborhood.  I  pass  by  for  the  pre- 
sent some  curious  incidents  that  occurred  durinti:  these 
marches  and  encami)ments.  Late  in  the  afternoon'  of 
the  last-mentioned  day  we  came  upon  the  banks  of  a  little 
sandy  stream,  of  which  the  Indians  could  not  tell  the 
name;  for  they  were  very  ill  ac(piainted  with  that  ])art 
of  the  country.  So  ])arched  and  arid  were  the  prairies 
around,  that  they  could  not  su))ply  <rrass  enough  for  the 
horses  to  feed  u})on,  and  we  were  comi)elled  to  move  far- 
ther and  farther  up  the  stream  in  search  of  gi'ound  for 
encampment.  The  country  was  nmeh  wilder  than  before. 
The  plains  were  gashed  with  ravines  and  broken  into 
hollows  and  steep  declivities,  which  flanked  our  course, 
as,  in  long  scattered  array,  the  Indians  advanced  up  the 
side  of  the  stream.  Mene-Seela  consulted  an  extraordi- 
nary oracle  to  instruct  him  where  the  bulfalo  were  to  be 
found.  When  he  wnth  the  other  chiefs  sat  down  on  the 
grass  to  smoke  and  converse,  as  they  olten  did  during  the 
march,  the  old  man  picked  up  one  of  those  enormous 
black  and  green  crickets,  which  the  Dahcotah  call  l)y  a 
name  that  signifies  "They  who  point  out  the  buffalo.'" 
The  "  Root-Diggers,"  a  wretched  tribe  beyond  the  moun- 
tains, turn  tliem  to  good  account  by  making  them  into  a 
sort  of  soup,  pronounced  l)y  certain  unscrui>ulous  trap- 
pers to  l»e  extremely  rich.  Holding  the  bloated  insect 
respectfully  between  his  fingers  and  thumb,  the  old  Indian 


ni^Hi 


lu  by  a 
itraio." 
moiin- 
iiito  a 
IS  trap- 
insect 
llndiau 


Till,    OLIILLALLAll    VILLAGE. 


*2()9 


Iddkcd  iittt'inivcly  at  him  and  iiKiuirod,  '• 'IVil  u\>\  my 
lalhcr.  wlici'o  must  wc  \n>  lo-morrow  to  lind  the  bnllido'.''" 
Tiic  cricket  twisted  ai)ont  his  h)n,<;-  horns  in  evident  eni- 
harrassment.  At  hist  lie  pointed,  or  seemetl  to  point, 
them  westward.  Mene-Seehi.  dn)]»i)in^'  lum  tiontlyon  the 
Lirass,  hiniihed  willi  ureat  ulee,  and  said  that  il'  we  went 
that  way  in  the  morning  wo  siionhl  he  sure  to  kill  plenty 
of  u'ame. 

Towards  evening  we  came  u\)on  a  fresh  green  meadow, 
traversed  hy  the  stream,  and  decjhset  among  tail  sterile 
liluil's.  'rill-  Indians  descended  its  steep  hank  ;  and  as  1 
was  at  the  rear,  i  was  one  of  the  last  to  reach  this  j)oint. 
Lances  were  glittering,  feathers  ilnttering,  and  the  water 
helow  me  was  crowded  with  men  ami  horses  jiassing 
tlirou'ili.  while  the  meadow  hevond  swarmed  with  the 
j'estUss  crowd  of  Indians.  The  sun  was  just  setting, 
and  ]ionrcd  its  softened  liglit  u})on  them  through  an 
opening  in  the  hills. 

1  remarked  to  Reynal,that  at  last  we  had  found  a  good 
'camping-ground. 

''  Oh,  it's  very  good,"  replied  he,  ironically,  "•  es))ecially 
if  theie  is  a  Snake  war-party  about,  and  they  take  it  into 
tlieir  heads  to  sho(jt  down  at  us  from  the  top  of  these 
hills,  it's  no  })lan  of  mine,  'camping  in  such  a  hole  as 
this." 

The  Indians  also  seemed  anxious.  Jligh  up  on  the 
top  of  the  tallest  Iduff,  cons])icuous  in  the  bright  ev(!n- 
iiig  sunlight,  sat  a  naked  warrior  on  horseba(d\,  look- 
iii;j  artjund  over  the  neighboring  countiy  ;  and  Raymond 
inlil  me  that  many  of  the  young  men  had  gone  out  in  dif- 
ferent directions  as  scouts. 

The  .shadows  had  reached  to  the  very  summit  of  the 
bluffs  before  the  lodges  were  erected,  and  the  village  re- 
duced   again  to   quiet  and  order.     A  cry  vvas  suddenly 

14 


i'i|||:|i 


'ii! 


210 


THE    ORKGON   TRAIL. 


I 


ilti' 


I    •  ! 


raised,  and  iiicii,  woiiicii,  niid  cliildrcn  cnmo  running  oiit 
with   aniniiilcMl    lact's,    and    looivcd    ca^j'Tly   lliroiigh    llio 
o|)(Miiiiu-  in  llic  liills  l>y  wliicli  tlio  stream  entered    IVoni 
the  wesi  \\ar(l.     1  could  disceiii  afar  oil'  some  dark,  lu'avy 
masses,  passing  over  the  sides  of  a  low   hill.     They  dis- 
a[i|)eare(l,  and  then  others  followed.     Thest^   wei'e  lianils 
of   litdt'alo-eows.      The    hunting-ground    was    rea(:he(l    m 
hist,   and    eseiy    thing    promised    well    for   the   mori'ow's 
chase.       l>(ing  luligned  and    exluiusted,    I    lay  down    in 
Kongra-Tonga's  lodge,  when  Raymond  thiust  in  his  head, 
and  called  upon   n»e   to   come  and  see  some  s|»ort.      A 
numher  of   Indians  were;  gatlieretj,  laughing,   along    the 
line  of  lodges  on  the  western  siile  of  the  village,  and  at 
some   distance,   I  could   ))lainly  see   in  the  twilight    two 
hug(^   lilack  monsters  stalking,  heavily  and  solemnly,  di- 
rectly towards  ns.      They  were  hnrfalo-hnlls.     The  wind 
blew  from  them  to  the  village,  and  such  was  tlieir  hlind- 
ncs..  and  stupidity,  that  they  were  advancing  upon   the 
enemy  without  the  least   consciousness  of   his  pi-esencc 
Raymond  told  mc  that  two  young  men  had  hidden   them- 
selves with  guns  in  a  ravine  ahout  twenty  yards  in  front 
of  us.     The  two  hidls  walked  slowly  on,  heavily  swing- 
ing  from  side    to    side    in   tlieir  jx'culiar   gait  of  stupid 
dignity.      They  aj)proa(;hed  within  four  or  live  rods  of 
the  ravine  where   the  Indians  lay  in  ambush.      Ileri'  at 
last  they  seem(>d   conscious  that  something  was  wrong, 
for  they  both  stoi)|K'd  and   stood  perfectly  still,  without 
looking  either  to  the  right  or  to   the  left.     Nothing  of 
them  was  to   he  seen  hut  two  l)lack  masses  of  shaggy 
mane,  witli  horns,  eyes,  and  nose  in  the  centre,  and  a 
[)air  (.f  lioofs  visible  at  the  ])ottom.     At  last  the  more  in- 
teUiti:cnt  of  them  seemed  to  have  concluded  that   it  was 
time    t)   retire.     Very   slowly,  and   with    an   air   of  the 
gravest  and  most  majestic  deliberation,  he  began  to  turn 


ii 


TIIK    CXMLLALLAII    VILLACJF,. 


211 


round,  as  If  he  were  rcvolviii}?  on  u  pivot.  Ijitllc  l>y  litlle 
liis  w'^ly  brown  sldv,  was  cxi-oscd  to  view.  A  while  smoke 
spriinjj,'  out,  as  it  wore  from  tlic  ^jjrouiid  ;  a  sharp  report 
euiuc  with  it.  Tlie  old  liidl  pivo  a  very  uudiiiiiilied 
Jump,  and  jraUoped  (AT.  At  this  his  e(tmrade  wIieeU;d 
aliout  with  (•oiisideral)le  expi'dition.  'l\\r  other  liidiau 
shot  at  him  IVom  (he  laviue,  and  then  both  tlie  hulls  ran 
away  at  full  speed,  while  half  the  juvenile  population  of 
the  villa<;'e  raised  a  ycdl  and  I'an  after  them.  The  (irst 
hull  soon  stopped,  and  while  the  crowd  stood  lookinji;  at 
him  at  a  respeetful  distance,  hci  rc'cled  and  rolled  over  on 
his  side.  The  other,  wounded  in  a  less  vital  part,  gal- 
lojK'd  away  to  the  liills  and  escaped. 

in  iiaif  an  hour  it  was  totally  dark.  I  lay  down  to 
sleep,  and  ill  as  I  was,  there  was  sonuithiii^'  very  ani- 
niatinfj;  in  the  prosj)ect  of  the  <i;eneral  hunt  that  was  to 
take  place  on  the  morrow. 


p. 


i 


li| 


»■    I! 


CUAITER   XV. 


THE    HUNTING    CAMP. 


T  ()N(i  hclbro  ilayl)rt'ak  tlic  Indians  l)r()ko  uj)  IIkmi-  camp. 
"■-^  The  women  of  Mcne-SceUi'.s  lodge  were  as  usual 
amonu:  the  first  lliat  were  ready  for  departure,  an<l  1 
found  the  old  nuui  himsell"  sitting'  by  the  eml)ers  of  the 
decayed  lire,  over  which  !»e  was  warming'  his  withered 
fingers,  iis  the  morning  was  very  chill  and  damp.  Tlio 
prej)arations  for  moving  were  oven  more  confused  and  dis- 
orderly than  usual.  While;  some  families  were  leaving  the 
ground  the  lodges  of  oth.ers  were  still  standing  untouched. 
At  this  old  Mcne-Seela  grew  impatient,  and  walking  out  to 
the  middle  of  the  village,  he  stood  with  his  r<il»e  wrapjicd 
close  around  him,  and  harangued  the  people  in  a  loud, 
sharp  voice.  Now,  he  said,  when  they  w(!rc  on  un 
enemy's  hunting-grounds,  was  not  the  time  to  hehave 
like  children  ;  they  ought  to  l)c  more  active  and  united 
than  ever.  His  sj)ecch  had  some  elTect.  The  delin(|uents 
took  down  their  lodges  and  loaded  their  ))ack-liorses ; 
and  when  the  sun  rose,  the  last  of  the  men.  women,  and 
childi'cn  had  left  the  deserted  camp. 

This  movement  was  made  merely  for  the  purpose  of 
finding  a  better  and  safer  ])osition.  Ho  we  advanced  only 
(hr(M^  or  four  miles  up  the  little  stream,  when  each  family 
assumed  its  relative  jtlaco  in  tlic  great  ring  of  tlie  village, 
and  the  squaws  set  actively  at  work  in  pr(>pai'ing  the 
camp.     But  not  a  single  warrior   dismounted  from   his 


Tirr:   in  ntino  cami'. 


'2\:] 


Ikh'sc.       All   (111"    iiicM    lliat    morniiiij;  were    luoiiiilctl    on 
iiircrior  niiiiMtils,  lr;i(liii<r  their  best   horses  liv  ii  eonl.  <»f 


Cdiiliiliiiy;    lliein   li»   the   cure   of   hovi 


I 


II    slii; 


ill 


iirlies 


(r 


thcv  hc'Tiiii  t(»  leave  ihc  uroMml  and  riile  riiiiidiv  awav 
<)\('i'  the  iilaiiis  to  the  westward.  1  had  tiiken  no  IocmI, 
and  not  li('iii<j!;  at  all  anihitioiis  of  larthei'  ahsliiienee,  I 
went  into  my  host's  lody'e,  which  his  scpiaws  had  set  up 
with  womlciiMl  dcspatcli.  and  sat  down  in  the  centre,  ns 
ii  gentle  hint  that,  I  was  hungry.  A  wooden  i)owl  was 
soon  SL't  hcforc  me,  (Hied  with  the  nutritious  |»re|iara,li(ui 
of  dried  meat,  eaUed />f'//<////(vnHiy  th(!  northern  voyavci'><. 
and  uuiHtM  hy  the  J)ahe(ttah.  'I'akin^  a  haiidl'iil  to  break 
my  fast  u|>on,  I  left  the  lodue  .just  in  time  to  see  the  last 
liaiid  ofhunterrt  disappear  over  the  ridu'e  of  the  neinhixtrin^ 
liill.  I  mounted  I'auline  and  galloped  in  pursuit,  ridin 
rullier  hy  the  halanee  than  hy  any  muscular  stren^ith  that 
remained  to  me.  From  the  top  of  the  hill  I  could  over- 
look a  widt!  extent  of  desolate  prairie,  over  which,  far 
and  near,  little  parties  of  naked  horsemen  were  rapidly 
jtassin^'.  J  soon  eamc  nj»  to  tlie  nearest,  and  we  liad  not 
ridden  a  mile  before  all  were  auiteil  into  one  lai\Li(>  and 
c(tnuta(!t  hodv.  All  was  haste  and  eairerness.  Each 
hunter  wliipped  on  his  liorse,  as  if  anxious  to  lie  the  first 
to  rea(di  the  ^ame.  In  siudi  movements  amonu"  the  In- 
dians this  is  alwavs  more  or  less  the  case:  hut  it  was 
csj)ecially  so  in  the  ])resent  instance,  lieeaiise  the  head 
chief  of  the  villa<:;c  was  absent,  and  tliere  were  iuit  few 
Idiers,"  a  soil  of  Indian  police,  who  amon^'  their 
other  functions  usually  assume  the  direction  of  a  luii'liilo 
hunt.  No  man  turned  to  the  ritilit  hand  or  to  the  left. 
We  rode  at  a  swift  canter  straight  forward,  up  hill  and 
down  liill,  and  througli  the  stilT,  obstinate  growth  of  the 
endless  wild -sage  bushes.  For  an  hour  and  a  half  the 
same  red  shoulders,  the  same  long  black  hair  rose  and 


so 


If 


'  \\ 


■\ 


'f 'V 


2U 


THE  ori:go>'  trail. 


Ill' 


li 


■''  I 


fell  with  tlie  motion  of  tlic  horses  before  me.  Very  little 
was  said,  tliough  once  I  observed  an  old  man  severely 
reproving  Raymond  for  having  left  his  ritle  behind  him, 
when  there  was  some  })roba))ility  of  encountering  an 
enemy  before  the  day  was  over.  As  we  gallojjed  across 
a  ))lain  thickly  set  with  sage  bushes,  the  foremost  riders 
vanished  suddenly  from  sight,  as  if  diving  into  the  earth. 
T):  i  arid  soil  was  cracked  into  a  deep  ravine.  Down 
we  all  went  m  succession  and  galloped  in  a  line  along 
the  bottom,  until  we  found  a  point  where,  one  by  one, 
(lie  horses  could  scramlde  out.  Soon  after,  we  came 
uj)on  a  wide  shallow  stream,  and  as  we  rode  swiftly  over 
the  hard  sand-bods  and  through  the  thin  sheets  of  rij)- 
l)ling  water,  many  of  the  savage  horsemen  threw  them- 
selves to  the  ground,  knelt  on  the  sand,  snatched  a  hasty 
draught,  and  leai)ing  back  again  to  their  seats,  gallo{)ed 
on  as  before. 

Meanwhile  scouts  kept  in  advance  of  the  party ;  and 
now  we  began  to  see  them  on  the  ridges  of  the  hills,  wav- 
ing their  robes  in  token  that  buffalo  were  visible.  These 
however  proved  to  be  nothing  more  than  old  straggling 
bulls,  feeding  npon  the  neighboring  })lains,  who  would 
stare  for  a  moment  at  the  hostile  array  and  then  gallop 
clumsily  off.  At  length  we  could  discern  several  of  these 
scouts  making  their  signals  to  us  at  once  ;  no  longer  wav- 
ing their  robes  boldly  from  the  top  of  the  hill,  but  standing 
lower  down,  so  that  they  could  not  be  seen  from  the  plains 
beyond.  Game  worth  ])ursuing  had  evidently  been  dis- 
covered. The  excited  Indians  now  urged  forward  their 
tired  horses  even  more  rapidly  than  before.  Pauline,  who 
was  still  sick  and  jaded,  began  to  groan  heavily  ;  and  her 
vellow  sides  were  darkened  with  sweat.  As  we  were 
crowding  together  over  a  lower  intervening  lull,  1  heard 
lleynal  and  Raymond  shouting  to  me  from  the  left;  and, 


.;;.'* 


"'ii'^ 


Tin:    HUNTING    CAMP. 


215 


lonkiiit!:  in  that  direction,  I  saw  tliem  ridinji,"  away  behind 
a  parlv  of  abont  twenty  niean-lookinu'  Indians.  These 
were  the  relatives  of  Reynal's  sijnaw,  Martiot.  who,  not 
wishing"  to  take  j)art  in  tlie  general  Innil,  were  riding 
towards  a  distant  liollow,  wliere  they  saw  a  small  band 
of  bnl'falo  whieli  they  meant  to  appropriate  to  them- 
selves. I  answered  to  the  call  by  ordering  Haymond  to 
tnrn  back  and  follow  me.  lie  reluctantly  obeyed,  Ihongh 
lleynal,  who  luid  relied  on  his  assistance  in  skinning,  cut- 
ting u|),  and  carrying  to  camp  the  buf't'alo  that  he  and  his 
])arty  should  kill,  loudly  protested,  and  declared  that  we 
should  sec  no  sport  it"  we  went  with  the  rest  of  the  Indians. 
Followed  by  Raymond,  I  pursued  the  main  body  of  hunters, 
while  Reynal,  in  a  great  rage,  whipped  Ids  horse  over  the 
hill  after  his  ragamufhn  relatives.  The  Indians,  still 
about  a  hundred  in  mimber,  galloped  in  a  dense  body  at 
some  distance  in  advance,  a  cloud  of  dust  ilying  in  the 
wind  behind  them.  I  could  not  overtake  them  until  they 
had  stop[)ed  on  the  side  of  the  hill  wliere  the  scouts  were 
stand irg.  Here  each  hunter  sprang  in  haste  from  the 
tired  animal  he  had  ridden,  and  leaped  upon  the  fresh 
horse  he  had  brought  with  him.  There  was  not  a  saddle 
or  a  bridle  in  the  whole  ])arty.  A  piece  of  buffalo-robe, 
girthed  over  the  liorse's  back,  served  in  the  ])lace  of  the 
(ine.  and  a  cord  of  twisted  hair,  lashed  round  his  lower 
jaw.  answered  for  the  other.  Eagle  feathers  dangled  from 
cMMT  mane  and  tail,  as  marks  of  courage  and  speed.  As 
for  the  rider,  he  wore  no  other  clothing  tiian  a  light  cinc- 
ture at  his  waist,  and  a  jiair  of  moccasins.  He  liad  a 
iicavy  whi|).  with  a  handle  of  solid  elk-horn,  and  a  lash 
of  knotted  bull-hide,  fastened  to  his  wrist  by  a  band.  His 
bow  was  in  his  hand,  and  his  quiver  of  otter  or  [lanther 
skin  liung  at  his  shoulder.  Thus  eijuipjicd,  some  thirty 
of  the  hunters  galloped  away  towards  the  left,  in  order  to 


i"  fc. 


'Illl 


at: 


216 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


PI   ' 


ti 


liif 


Jiiakc  n  circuit  under  cover  of  the  hills,  that  Ihe  huffalo 
mi^iif  lie  assailiMl  on  lioth  sides  at  once.  The  rest  im- 
[»atiently  waited  until  tinu!  enouLi'h  had  elajjsed  I'or  tiicir 
com])anions  to  reach  the  required  j)osition.  'J'lieii  ridln;>' 
uf»\vai'd  in  a  body,  we  ^"ained  the  rid<i"e  ol'tlie  liill.  and  Inr 
the  first  time  came  in  si^iit  of  the  l)uiralo  on  the  plain 
beyond. 

They  were  a  band  of  cows,  four  or  five  hundr(Ml  in 
number,  crowded  together  neai'  the  bank  of  a  wide  stream 
that  was  soaking  across  the  sand-beds  of  the  valley. 
This  valley  was  a  large  circular  basin,  sun-scorched  and 
broken,  scantily  covered  with  herbage,  and  surrounded 
with  high  barren  hills,  from  an  opening  in  which  we  could 
sec  our  allies  gallo[)lng  out  U[ion  the  plain.  The  wind 
blew  from  that  direction.  The  buffalo,  aware  of  their  a{> 
proach,  had  beu'un  to  move,  thouuh  verv  slowlv  and  in  a 
conn)act  mass.  I  have  no  farther  recollection  of  seeing 
the  game  until  we  were  in  the  midst  of  them,  for  as  we 
rode  down  the  hill  other  objects  engrossed  my  attention. 
Numerous  old  bulls  were  scattered  over  the  j)lain.  and  un- 
gallantly  deserting  their  charge  at  our  approach  Ijegan  to 
wade  and  }tlunge  through  the  quicksands  of  the  stream, 
and  gallo])  away  towards  the  hills.  One  old  veteran  was 
straggling  behind  the  rest,  with  one  of  his  fore-legs,  which 
had  been  broken  by  some  accident,  dangling  alxjut  use- 
lessly. His  ap{)earance  as  he  went  shambling  along  on 
three  legs,  was  so  ludicrous  that  1  could  m)t  helj)  j)ausing 
for  a  moment  to  look  at  him.  As  I  came  near,  lit;  would 
try  to  rush  upon  me,  nearly  throwing  himself  down  at  ev- 
ery awkward  attempt.  Looking  uj),  I  saw  the  whole  body 
of  Indians  full  an  hundred  yards  in  advance.  1  lashed 
Pauline  in  j)ursuit  and  reached  tluMii  just  in  time;  for,  at 
that  moment,  each  hunter,  as  if  by  a  connnoD  impulse, 
violently  struck  his  horse,  each  horse  sprang  forward,  and. 


vi 


THE    HUNTING    CAMP. 


217 


scattering:  in  tlio  cliarge  in  order  to  assail  tlio  entire  lici'd 
at  once,  we  all  rnslied  lieadlonti"  uijon  the  buffalo.  Wo 
were  anionii;  tlieni  in  an  instant.  Amid  the  trampling 
and  llie  ycdls  1  could  sec  Iheir  dark  fiiiures  running  liillier 
and  thitlier  through  clouds  of  dust,  and  Ihe  horsemen 
darting  in  })ursuit.  AVhilc  we  were  charging  on  one  side, 
our  companions  attacked  the  bewildered  and  panic-stricken 
herd  on  the  other.  The  u|)r()ar  and  jonfusion  lasted  Imt 
a  moment,  'i'he  dust  cleared  away,  ind  the  Imffido  could 
1)0  seen  scattering  as  iVom  a  commo  i  centre,  flying  over 
the  plain  singly,  or  in  long  files  and  small  comjjact  bodies, 
while  behind  them  followed  the  Indians,'  riding  at  furious 
speed,  and  yelling  as  they  launched  arrow  after  arrow  into 
their  sides.  The  carcasses  were  strewn  thickly  over  the 
ground.  Here  and  there  stood  wounded  but^'alo,  their 
bleeding  sides  feathered  with  arrows;  and  as  I  rode  l)y 
them  their  eyes  would  glare,  they  would  bristle  like  gi- 
gantic cats,  and  feel)ly  attempt  to  rush  up  and  gore  my 
horse. 

I  left  camp  that  morning  with  a  philosophic  resolution. 
Neither  1  nor  my  horse  were  at  that  time  fit  for  such 
sport,  and  1  had  determined  to  remain  a  quiel  spectator  ; 
but  amid  the  rush  of  horses  and  buffalo,  the  uproar  ami 
the  dust,  I  found  it  impossible  to  sit  still ;  and  as  four  or 
five  liuffalo  ran  ])ast  me  in  a  line,  I  lashed  Paulin(>  in  [»ur- 
snit.  We  went  jdunging  through  the  water  and  the  (jiLck- 
sands,  and  clambering  the  bank,  chased  them  through 
the  wild- sage  bushes  that  covered  the  rising  ground  be- 
yond. But  neither  her  native  spirit  nor  the  blows  of  tho 
knotted  bull-hide  could  supply  the  place  of  poor  Pauline's 
exhausted  strengtii.  We  could  not  gain  an  inch  upon  tlio 
fugitives.  At  last,  liowever.  they  came  full  upon  a  ravine 
too  wide  to  leap  over;  and  as  this  com|)elled  them  to 
turn  abruptly  to  the  left,  I  contrived  to  get  within  t  mi  or 


:P 


b: 


218 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


twelve  yards  of  tlic  hindmost.  At  this  slio  laced  ahont, 
bristled  iiii<;i'ily,  and  made  a  show  of  eharg'ing.  1  shot  at 
luT,  and  hit  her  somewhere  in  the  neck.  Down  she 
luniltled  into  the  ravine,  whither  her  companions  had 
descended  before  her.  I  saw  their  dark  hacks  appeai'ing 
and  (lisa[)pearing  as  they  gallo{)ed  along  the  !)ottom  ;  then, 
one  by  one,  they  scrambled  out  on  tlie  other  side,  and 
ran  off  as  before,  the  wounded  animal  following  with  the 
rest. 

Turning  l)ack,  I  saw  Haymond  coming  on  liis  black 
nude  to  meet  me ;  and  as  we  rode  over  the  field  together, 
we  counted  scores  of  carcasses  lying  on  tlie  plain,  in  the 
ravines,  and  on  the  sandy  bed  of  the  stream.  Far  away 
in  the  distance,  horsemen  and  buffalo  were  still  scouring 
along,  with  clouds  of  dust  rising  behind  them  ;  and  over 
the  sides  of  the  hills  long  files  of  the  frightened  animals 
were  rapidly  ascending.  The  hunters  began  to  return. 
The  boys,  ^vho  had  held  the  horses  liehind  the  hill,  made 
their  appearance,  and  the  work  of  flaying  and  cutting  up 
began  in  earnest  all  over  the  field.  1  noticed  my  host 
Koiigra-Tonga  beyond  the  stream.  Just  alighting  by  the 
side  of  a  cow  wdiich  he  liad  killed.  Riding  up  to  him,  I 
found  him  in  the  act  of  drawing  out  an  arrow,  which, 
with  the  exception  of  the  notch  at  the  end,  had  entirely 
disappeared  in  the  animal.  I  asked  him  to  give  it  to  me, 
and  1  still  retain  it  as  a  proof,  though  by  no  means  the 
most  striking  one  that  could  be  oflered,  of  the  force  and 
dexterity  with  which  the  Indians  discharu'e  their  arrows. 

The  hides  and  meat  were  ])iled  upon  the  horses,  and 
the  hunters  l)egan  to  leave  the  ground.  Raymond  and  I, 
too,  getting  tired  of  the  scene,  set  out  for  the  village, 
riding  straight  across  the  intervening  desert.  There  was 
no  path,  and  as  far  as  I  could  see,  no  landmarks  sufficient 
to  guide  us ;  but  Raymond  seemed  to  have  an  instinctive 


I'[ 


THE    HUNTING    CAMP. 


219 


pcrcoption  of  the  ])oint  on  the  horizon  towards  wliicli  wc 
ought  to  direct  onr  course.  Anleloj)0  were  bounding-  on 
nil  sides,  and  as  is  always  the  ease  in  the  ])resence  of 
Wuffalo,  they  seemed  to  have  lost  their  natui'al  shyness. 
JJands  of  them  would  run  lightly  up  the  rocky  declivities, 
and  stand  gazing  down  upon  us  from  tlie  summit.  At 
length  we  could  distinguish  the  tall  white  rocks  and  the  oUl 
])ine-trees  that,  as  we  well  remembered,  were  just  above 
the  site  of  the  encampment.  Still  we  could  sec  nothing  of 
the  camp  itself,  until,  mounting  a  grassy  hill,  we  saw  tlie 
circle  of  1  xlges,  dingy  with  storms  and  smoke,  stantling  on 
the  plain  at  onr  feet. 

I  entered  the  lodge  of  my  host.  Ilis  sipiaw  instantly 
])rought  me  food  and  watei',  and  spread  a  buffalo-rol)e  i'or 
me  to  lie  upon  ;  and  being  nmch  fatigued  I  lay  down  and 
fell  asleep.  In  about  an  hour,  the  entrance  of  Kongra- 
Tonga,  with  his  arms  smeared  with  lilood  to  the  elbows, 
awoke  me  ;  lie  sat  down  in  liis  usual  scat,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  lodge.  Ilis  sfpiaw  gave  him  a  vessel  of  water  for 
washing,  set  before  liim  a  bowl  of  boiled  meat,  and,  as  ho 
v»as  eating,  pulled  off  his  liloody  moccasins  and  placed 
IVesh  ones  on  his  u'ct ;  then  outstretching  his  limbs,  my 
host  composed  himself  to  sleep. 

And  now  the  hunters,  two  or  three  at  a  time,  came 
rapidly  in,  and  each  consigning  his  horses  to  the  scjuaws, 
entered  his  lodge  witli  the  air  of  a  man  whose  day's  work 
was  done.  The  sipiaws  flung  down  tlie  load  from  the 
liurdened  horses,  and  vast  piles  of  meat  and  hides  were 
soon  uathered  before  evcrv  lodu'e.  IJv  this  time  it  was 
darkening  fast,  and  tlie  whole  villiige  was  illumined  by 
the  glare  of  Hres.  All  the  s(piaws  and  children  were 
gathered  about  the  ])iles  of  meat,  exjiloring  them  in  search 
of  the  diiinti  \-^t  poi'tions.  J^omc  of  these  they  roasted  on 
sticks  before  the  tires,  but  often  they  dis[)enscd  witli  this 


'! ::  ■< 


'»;:  M 


p^l.~^ 


220 


THE    OREGON     TIIAIE. 


n 


i!    > 


snporfliious  operation.  Late  into  tlie  night  tlic  fires  wore 
still  glowlnu'  upon  the  <rroups  of  Icasters  engaged  in  tliis 
savage  banquet  around  them. 

Several  hunters  sat  down  by  the  fire  in  Kongra-Tonga's 
huluo  to  talk  over  <lie  dav's  exploits.  Among  tlie  rest, 
Meue-Seela  came  in.  Though  lie  nuist  have  seen  full 
eighty  winters,  lie  had  taken  an  active  share  in  the  day's 
sport.  IJe  l)oasted  that  he  had  killed  two  cows  that  morn- 
ing, and  would  have  kill(Ml  a  third  if  the  dust  had  not 
blinded  liim  so  that  he  had  to  drop  his  bow  and  arrows 
and  ])ress  both  hands  against  his  eyes  to  stop  the  ])ain. 
The  firedight  fell  ujion  his  wriidvled  face  and  shrivelled 
figure  as  he  sat  telling  his  story  with  such  ininntable 
gesticulation  that  every  man  in  the  lodge  broke  into  a 
laugh. 

Old  Mene-Seela  was  one  of  the  few  Indians  in  the  vil- 
lage with  whom  I  would  have  trusted  myself  alone  with- 
out suspicion,  and  the  oidy  one  from  whom  I  should  have 
received  a  gift  or  a  service  without  the  certainty  that  it 
proceeded  from  an  interested  motive.  He  was  a  great 
friend  to  the  whites.  Jle  liked  to  be  in  their  society,  and 
was  very  vdn  of  the  favors  he  had  received  from  them. 
He  told  me  one  aftei'uoon.  as  we  were  sitting  togetlier  in 
his  son's  lodge,  that  he  considered  the  l)eaver  and  the 
whites  the  Avisest  people  on  earth  ;  indeed,  he  was  con- 
vinced they  v>'ere  the  same;  and  an  incident  which  had 
hajijiened  to  him  long  l)efore  had  assured  him  of  this. 
?o  he  began  the  following  story,  and  as  the  i)ipe  passed  in  ' 
turn  to  him,  Reymd  availed  himself  v)f  these  interruptions 
to  translate  what  had  ])rcceded.  r>ut  the  old  man  ac- 
com])anied  his  words  with  such  admirable  iiantomimc  that 
translation  was  hardly  necessary. 

lie  said  that  when  he  was  very  young,  and  had  never  yet 
seen  a  white  man,  he  an<l  three  or  four  of  his  companions 


U\ 


THE     HUNTING    CAMP. 


were  out  on  a  lictivcr  hunt,  and  he  crawled  nilo  a  hir;j.e 
heavei-loilne,  to  sec  what  was  there.  Sunietuues  lie  crept 
on  his  lumds  and  knees,  sometimes  he  was  ohliged  to 
swim,  and  sometimes  to  He  Hat  on  his  lace  and  di'a<^ 
himself  along.  In  this  way  he  crawled  a  great  distance 
under  ground.  It  was  very  dark,  cold,  and  close,  so  that 
at  last  he  was  almost  sul'Ibcated,  and  tell  int(j  a  swoon. 
^\'hen  he  began  to  recover,  lu?  could  just  distinguish  the 
voices  of  his  comi)anions  outside,  who  had  given  him  up 
for  lost,  and  were  singing  his  death-song.  At  first  ho 
could  see  nothing,  hut  soon  discei'ned  something  white 
before  him,  and  at  length  ])lainly  distinguished  three  peo- 
l)lc,  cntirel ,  while,  one  man  and  two  women,  silting  ti 
the  edge  of  a  black  po#l  of  water,  lie  became  alarmed, 
and  thouglit  it  high  time  to  retreat.  Having  succeeded, 
after  great  troul)le,  in  reaching  daylight  again,  he  went  to 
th(!  s]>ot  ilirectly  above  the  ])ool  of  water  where  he  had 
seen  the  three  mysteri'ous  l)eings.  Here  he  l)eat  a  hole  with 
his  war-club  in  the  ground,  and  sat  down  to  watch.  In 
a  moment  the  nose  of  an  old  male  beaver  appeared  at  the 
opening.  ^lene-Seela  instantly  seized  him  and  dragged 
him  uj),  when  two  other  beavers,  l)oth  females,  thrust 
out  their  heads,  and  these  he  served  in  the  same  way. 
''  These,"  said  the  old  man,  concluding  his  story,  for  which 
he  was  probal)ly  indebted  to  a  dream,  ''  nuist  have  Ijeen 
llic  three  white  people  whom  1  saw  sitting  at  the  edge  of 
the  water." 

Menc-Seela  was  the  grand  depositary  of  the  legends  and 
traditions  of  the  village.  1  succeeded,  how(!ver,  in  getting 
from  him  only  a  few  fragments.  Like' all  Indians,  he  was 
excessively  su|)erstitious,  and  continually  saw  some  I'ca- 
son  for  withholding  his  stories.  "It  is  a  bad  thing,"  he 
would  say, '•  to  tell  the  tales  in  summer,  ^'^tay  with  us 
till   next  winter,  and  1  will  tell  you  every  thing  i  know  ; 


^  M 


222 


THE    ORKCiON    TRAIL. 


but  now  our  war-parties  arc  goine^  out,  and  our  young 
men  will  he  killed  if  1  8it  down  to  tell  stories  before  the 
frost  Ijegins." 

i>ut  to  leave  tliis  digression.  We  remained  en(!am|ied 
on  this  sjK)t  five  days,  during  three  of  wliieh  Ihe  hunters 
were  at  work  incessantly,  and  immense  (luantitics  of  meat 
aiul  hides  were  In^ught  in.  (Jreat  alarm,  howevei-,  pre- 
vailed in  the  village.  All  were  on  the  alert.  The  young 
men  ranged  the  country  as  scouts,  and  the  old  men  paid 
careful  attention  to  omens  and  prodigies,  and  esjuMMally 
to  their  dreams.  In  order  to  convey  to  the  enemy  ( who, 
if  they  were  in  the  neighborhood,  nuist  inevitably  have 
known  of  our  ])resenee)  the  imj)ression  that  we  were  con- 
stantly on  the  watch,  piles  of  sticks  and  stones  wei'e 
erected  on  all  tlie  surrounding  hills,  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  appear  at  a  distance  like  sentinels.  Often,  even  to  this 
lionr,  that  scene  will  rise  before  my  mind  like  a  "isible 
reality;  the  tall  white  rocks;  the  old  pine-trees  on  their 
summits  ;  the  sandv  stream  that  ran  along  their  bases 
and  half  encircled  the  village  ;  and  the  wild-sage  V)ushes, 
with  their  dull  green  hue  and  their  medicinal  odor,  that 
covered  all  the  neighboring  declivities.  Hour  after  hour 
the  squaws  would  pass  and  repass  with  their  vessels  of 
water  between  the  stream  and  the  lodges.  For  the  most 
part,  no  one  was  to  be  seen  in  the  camp  but  women  and 
child  ;en,  two  or  three  su})erannuated  old  men,  and  a  i'ew 
lazy  and  worthless  young  ones.  These,  together  with  the 
dogs,  now  grown  fat  and  good-natured  with  the  abundance 
in  the  camp,  were  its  only  tenants.  Still  it  })resented  a 
busy  and  bustling  scene.  In  all  quarters  the  meat,  hung 
on  cords  of  hide,  was  drying  in  the  sun,  and  around  the 
lodges,  the  squaws,  young  and  old,  were  laboring  on  the 
fresh  hides  stretched  upon  the  ground,  scra{)ing  the  hair 
from  one  side  and  the  still  adhering  flesh  from  the  othei', 


Tin;     HINTING    CAMP. 


223 


and  ruUltiiiu^  iud)  tliom  \ho  brains  of  the  bulTalo,  in  order 
to  ivndor  tlicni  soft  and  |iliant,. 

In  nicrey  to  myself  and  my  horse,  1  ditl  not  ^o  ontwitli 
the  lumters  aftci"  the  (list  (hiy.  Of  hile,  liowcvcr,  1  had 
been  piining'  strcn.uth  raj)idly,  as  was  always  the  case  npon 
every  resjjite  of  my  disorder.  I  was  soon  al>l(!  to  alk 
with  ease.  Raymond  and  I  wonld  go  ont  njion  the  neiuli- 
boring-  prairies  to  shoot  antelope,  or  sometimes  to  iis.-ail 
stratiiiling  bnffalo,  on  foot  ;  an  attempt  in  wliich  we  met 
with  rather  indifli'rcnt  snceess.  As  1  eame  ont  of  Konu'ra- 
Tonga's  lodge  one  morning.  Reynal  called  to  me  from  tlu! 
()[)j)Osite  side  of  the  village,  and  asked  me  over  to  break- 
fast. The  breakfast  was  a  snbstantial  one.  It  consisted 
of  the  rich,  jniey  humi)-ribs  of  a  fat  cow;  a  repast  abs  )- 
lately  unrivalled  in  its  way.  It  was  roasting  before  the 
fire  impaled  npon  a  stout  stick,  which  Reynal  took  up 
and  planted  in  the  ground  before  his  lodge  ;  when  he, 
with  Raymond  and  myself,  taking  our  seats  around  it, 
unsheathed  our  knives  and  assailed  it  with  good  will.  \\i 
sj)ite  of  all  medical  experience,  this  solid  fare,  without 
bread  or  salt,  seemed  to  agree  with  me  admirably. 

"  We  shall  have  strangers  here  before  night,"  said 
lleynal. 

"  IIow  do  you  know  that  ?  "  I  asked. 

"  I  dreamed  so.  I  am  as  good  at  dreaming  as  an  In- 
dian. There's  the  llail-Storm ;  he  dreamed  the  same 
thing,  and  he  and  his  crony,  The  Rabbit,  have  gone  out 
on  discovery." 

1  laughed  at  Reynal  for  his  credulity,  went  over  to  my 
host's  lodge,  took  down  my  rifle,  walked  out  a  mile  or  two 
on  the  prairie,  saw  an  old  bull  standing  alone,  crawled 
up  a  ravine,  shot  him.  and  saw  him  esea)»e.  'J'hen,  ex- 
hausted and  rather  ill-humored,  I  walked  I'ack  to  tlu; 
village.     Ry  a  strange  coincidence,  Reynal's  prediction 


■•If 

1 


901 


THE    01li:c;{)N    TUAIL. 


liad  lii'cii  vcrilk'd ;  for  tlio  first  pcisoiis  whom  I  siiw  v  lm'o 
tlic  tun  tiai>|KM'.s,  Jl(jiil(.'iiu  and  Sara|)liiii,  cniuiim'  lo  iiujot 
inc.  'i'liL'su  iiicMi,  as  tliu  reader  may  |M)s>ilily  recuUeut, 
liud  Icl't  our  party  about  a  Ibrtiii^lit  helort'.  Tliey  had 
hoL'ii  ti'a|)|)hi^*  amoii,t!;  the  lUack  IJills,  and  were;  now  on 
Iheii-  way  to  tlie  Jlocky  Mountains,  intendin<:'  in  a  (hiy  (jr 
two  to  set  out  I'oi'  thci  nei}2,l» boring  Medicine  IJow.  They 
wei'e  not  the  most  elegant  or  relined  of  eompanions,  yet 
they  nuide  a  veiy  \veh;ome  addition  to  the  limited  soeitity 
of  the  villaue.  For  th(!  rest  ol'  that  dav  we  lav  smokiui; 
and  talking  in  J{e}  nal's  lodge.  This  indeed  was  no  better 
than  a  hut,  made  ol"  hides  streti;hed  on  poles,  and  entirely 
optMi  in  (Vont.  It  was  well  earpt'ted  witb.  soft  butl'alo 
robes.  and  here  we  remained,  sheltered  iVom  the  sun,  sur- 
rounded by  the  domestic  utensils  of  Mailame  Margot's 
household.  All  was  (juiet  in  the  village.  Though  the 
hunters  had  not  gone  out  that  day,  they  lay  sleeping  i 
th(;ir  lodges,  and  most  of  the  WMjmeu  were  silently  e 


n 


n- 


aged  ill  their  heavy  tasks.     A  few  young  men  were  play- 

of  ball  in  the  area  ai'  the  vilheje  ;  and 


iiiti' 


ut  a  li 


izy  game 


when  they  became  tired,  some  giils  supplied  their  place 

t.     At  a  little  distance,  amoim' 


w 


ith  a  more  boisterous  spor 


the  lodges,  some   children  and  half-grown   s(piaws   were 
playfully  tossing  one  ol' their  number  in  a  buiTalo-robe,  an 


exact  counterpart  of  the    ancient    pastime    froi 


m    wiucii 


Sancho   Pan/a  suffered  so   much.      Farther  out  on  the 
])raii'ie,  a  host  of  little  naked  boys  were  roaming  about. 


engaged  m  various  rough  games,  or  pursuing  birds  a 


IK 


ground-squirrels  with  their  bows  and  arrows;  and  woe  to 
the  unha{)py  little  animals  that  Tell  into  their  merciless. 


torture-lovinji"  hands. 


A   squaw  Irom 


[he  nexL  lodue,  a 


notable  housewife,  named  Weah  Washtay,  or  the  (Jood 
Woman,  brought  us  a  large  bowl  of  //v^s•//a,  and  went  into 
an  ecstasy  of  delight  when  I  i)resented  her  with  a  green 


Tin:    III  NTINCi     <'AMl'. 


glass  i'iii<i,-,  siicli  us  I  iisuiilly  won,'  with  ii  viuw  to  similar 
occasions. 

The  SUM  Weill  down.  Mini  liaH'  the  sky  was  nlosvinjr 
liery  I'ed,  iX'(le('t(Ml  on  tlie  littio  sli'eiiin  as  it  woiiml  away 
iinu^n^  llie  saji'c-laislies.  Some  youni;'  men  left  the  \ii- 
hiu't',  and  soon  returned,  (h'iviiiu'  in  bel'orc  thcni  nil  tho 
horses,  hm:drc(ls  in  immher,  and  of  every  size,  a<i'e,  and 
color.  The  luuitei's  came  out,  and  each  secni'iiiii"  thoso 
that  heh)n<i(Ml  to  him,  oxanniu'd  their  condition,  and  tied 
them  last  hy  lout;'  cords  to  stakes  driven  in  IVont  of  his 
lo(l,ii'e.  It  was  half  an  hour  het'ore  the  hustle  sul)sided 
and  tran(|uiUity  was  restored  auain.  I>y  this  time  it  was 
nearly  dark.  Kettles  were  hunu-  over  the  lires,  anamd 
which  the  S(|ua.ws  were  gathered  with  their  children, 
lauiihin^'  and  talking'  meri'ily.  A  circle  of  a  dirtlu'ent 
kind  was  lurmed  in  the  centre  of  tlu^  village.  This  was 
composed  of  the  ohl  men  and  warriors  of  repute,  who  sat 
together  with  their  white  ituffalorohes  drawn  close  around 
their  shoulders;  and  as  the  pij)e  passed  IVom  hand  to 
hand,  their  conversation  had  not  a  pai'ticle  of  the  gravity 
and  reserve  nsually  asci'ibed  to  Indians.  1  sat  down  with 
them  as  usual.  1  had  in  my  liand  half  a  dozen  scpiihs 
and  serpents,  which  1  had  made  one  ilay  when  encamped 
upon  Laramie  Creek,  with  gunpowder  and  charcoal,  and 
the  leaves  of  "  Fremont's  Exj)edition,"'  rolled  round  a 
stout  lead-pencil.  1  waited  till  1  could  get  hold  of  the 
huge   j)iece  of  burning  hois-de-vo  he   which   the   Indians 


K( 


pt    by  them    on   the  gronnd   for  lighting  tluMr  pipe 


With  this  1  lighted  all  the  fireworks  at  once,  and  tossed 
them  whizzing  and  sputtering  into  the  air,  over  the  heads 
iif  the  company.  They  all  jumped  up  and  ran  (jif  with 
yelps  of  astonishment  and  consternation.  Alu-r  a  mo- 
ment or  two,  they  ventured  to  come  back  one  by  one, 
and  some  of  the  boldest,  i)icking  up  the  cases  of  burnt 

15 


•    !  I 


r   ^  " 


2'2i) 


TIIL   ORIXJON    TllAIL. 


Ill' 


y»n|H'r,  cx.'imiiKMl  llicm  with  c'lfjcM*  curiosily  lo  discovci' 
tlicir  iiiyslcriniis  sccitL  Vv*)\\i  tliiif,  lime  lorwurd  1  en- 
joyed   Lireiil    i'e|iiile   iis   ii    "  rn'e-liiedieilie." 

The  e;iiii|i  Wiis  (illed  with  the  low  hiiiii  of  eheeiTid 
voices.  There  wei'e  other  soiiiids,  howcvei".  of  u  dilTereiil 
kiinl  :  I'oi'  I'loni  m  hiiu'e  lodge,  lighted  up  like  a  gi^jiiitic 
liiiitei'ii  liy  the  hhiziiiu"  (iie  within,  ciiiuo  ji  ehoriis  oi"  dis- 
iniil  dies  jiiid  wniliiiins,  loii;j;  drawn  out,  like  the  howlini:' 
of  wolves,  iiiid  a  woinaii,  aliiiost  iiake(l,  was  eroiu'hiiei 
cli>se  outside,  ervinu'  violent Iv,  and  •iashiiu'"  her  leus  with 
a  knife  till  they  weic  eo\'ered  with  Mood.  Just  a  yeai" 
Ijciore.  a  younu'  man  helongiuL;'  to  this  I'annly  li;id  heeu 
slain  hy  the  enemy,  and  his  r(datives  \ver(!  thus  lameiit- 
inu"  his  loss.  Still  other  sounds  uii<2]it  he  heard;  loud 
cai'iiest  ei'ies  ol'len  repented  IVom  amid  thu  ^loom,  at  ii 
(listan('(>  lieyond  the  villajie.  They  j)roccedo(l  from  some 
younj:'  men  who,  hein^'  ahout  to  set  out  in  a  few  days  on 
a  war-party,  were  standing-  at  the  top  of  a  hill,  calliiiir 
on  1h(>  (Ji'eat  Spirit  to  aid  them  in  their  entei'|)rise. 
AVIiile  I  was  listcnini:'.  l?ouleau,  with  a  laugh  on  his  e:i re- 
less  face,  callcil  lo  m(>  and  dii'(M;ted  mv  attention  to 
another  (luni'ter.  In  front  of  the  lodj^'o  wliere  Weak 
Washtay  lived,  another  s(|uaw  was  standinji',  anurily  scold- 
iiifi;  an  (dil  yellow  dou'.  who  lay  on  the  g'round  with  his 
noso  rostinu'  hetween  his  paws,  and  his  eyes  turned 
8loo))ily  up  to  her  face,  as  if  pretending  to  give  respect- 
ful attention,  hut  resolved  to  fall  asleep  as  soon  as  it  was 
all  over. 

"  You  ought  to  1)C  ashamed  of  yourself!"  said  tlie  old 
■woman.  "  1  have  fed  you  well,  and  taken  care  of  you 
ever  since  3'ou  were  small  and  hlind,  and  could  only  crawl 
ahout  and  s(iueal  a  little,  instead  of  howlinu'  as  vou  do 
now.  AVhen  yon  grew  old,  I  said  you  were  a  good  dog. 
You  were  strong  and  gentle  when  the  load  was  jnit  un 


Tin;     IITNTINC     (AMP. 


007 


Vdiir  linck,  !iii(l  yoii  ii('\rr  r;iii  iiiiioiii:"  llif  I'ti't  of  tlic 
lioi'scs  ulirii  uc  wci't'  :ill  1  i:i\clliim'  tuLicllicr  (i\cr  tlic 
|tiiiiri('.  Hut  yiMi  liinl  u  lunl  IkmiI  I  Wliciicvrr  a  rnldiit 
iiiiii|tc(l  out  i>r  the  Idislics,  you  wci'c  ahviiys  llic  lirsl  to 
iim  nl'lcr  him  iiinl  lend  awny  all  \\\v  otiicr  doLis  licliiiid 
yitii.  ^'(»ii  oiijilit  lo  liaNc  Uiiowii  lliat  il  was  Ncry  ilaii'jcr- 
oiis  l«t  act,  so.  NVIicii  you  liad  iiol  far  out  ou  llic  piaiiic, 
aud  no  oMf  \\a;.  iicai'  to  li('l|iy(ai,  [lorhaps  si  wolf  would 
}\u\\\)  out  of  tliC!  ravine;  and  then  what  eoidd  ynu  do? 
^'ou  wctnld  (M'riainly  havo  lieeii  kiUeil,  loi-  no  (h)ir  fiin 
liulit  well  with  a  load  on  his  Itack.  Oidv  three  davs  atio 
you  ran  ofl'  in  that  way,  and  turne(|  dver  the  hau'  of 
wooden  pins  with  whieh  I  used  to  I'astcn  up  I  he  front  of 
lh(^  lod,u(!.  Ijook  up  tliorc,  and  you  will  see  that  it  is  all 
lla|»])in,u'  open.  And  now  to-night  you  liaxc  stolen  a  urt-at 
piece  of  lat  meat  wliieli  was  roastinjj^  before  tin;  lire  for 
my  cliildren.     1  tell  you,  you  have  a  had  heart,  and  you 


nms 


td 


le 


I  " 


So  sayinix,  the  squaw  went  into  the  hjduv,  and  coniinji!; 
out  with  a  large  st(jne  mallet,  killed  the  unfortunate  du<^ 
at  one  hlow.  This  speedi  is  worthy  of  notice,  as  illus- 
trating a  curious  chai'ucteristic  of  the  Indians,  who  as- 
cribe intelligence  and  a  jujwer  of  understanding  speech 
to  the  inferior  animals  ;' to  whom,  indce(l,  according  to 
many  of  tlicir  traditions,  they  are  liidced  in  close  alVinity  ; 
and  they  even  chiim  the  honor  of  a  lineal  descent  fr(jm 
hears,  wolves,  deer,  or  tortoises. 

As  it  grew  late,  I  Avalkcd  across  the  village  to  the 
lodge  of  my  host,  Kongra-Tonga.  As  I  enteivd  I  siiw 
him,  hv  the  hlazc  of  the  lire  in  the  middle,  recliniuLi'  half 


asleep  in  his  usual  })lace.  His  couch  was  l»y  no  means 
an  uncomfortable  one.  It  consisted  of  Ijuffalo-i-obes,  laid 
together  011  the  ground,  and  a  pillow  made  of  whitened 
deer-skin,   stul'led    with    feathers   and   ornamented   with 


m 


.il 


fl 


il 


I       \l 


f^.il 


lii  I 


228 


THi:    ORKUON    TRAIL. 


111  ii 


hciicU:.  At  Lis  l)ju'k  was  a  lij^lit  framework  of  i)olos  and 
slender  i  eds,  against  wlucli  he  could  lean  with  ease 
wiien  in  a  sitting-  posture;  and  at  the  toj)  of  it,  just 
ahove  liis  head,  hung  his  bow  and  quiver.  J  lis  squaw,  a 
laugh in'j;,  Itroad-faced  woman,  apjtarently  had  not  yet 
eomj)Kted  her  domestic  arrangements,  for  she  was  bus- 
tling about  the  lodge,  pulling  over  the  utensils  and  the 
bales  of  (hied  meat  that  were  ranged  carefully  around  it. 
Unhappily,  she  and  her  })artner  were  not  the  only  tenants 

of  the  dwelling  ;  for  half  a  dozen  children  were  scattered 

* 
about,  sleeping  in  every  imaginable  ))osture.     j\Iy  saddle 

was  in  its  place  at  the  head  of  the  lodge,  and  buffalo- 
i\)be  was  spread  on  the  gri  uud  before  it.  Wrapping  my- 
self in  my  blanket,  1  lay  down  ;  but  had  I  not  been 
extremely  fatigued,  the  noise  in  the  next  lodge  would 
have  }treven(ed  my  sleei)ing.  There  was  the  monotonous 
thumi)ing  ol'  the  Indian  drum,  mixed  ^\ith  occasional 
sharp  yells,  and  a  chorus  chanted  by  twenty  voices.  A 
gi'aiid  scene  of  gnmbling  was  going  forward  with  all  the 
apj)r(>priate  forniidities.  The  jilayers  were  staking  on  tlie 
chances  of  the  game  their  ornaments,  their  Ium-scs,  <iiid 
as  the  excitement  rose,  their  garments,  and  even  their 
"weapons;  foi- desi)erate  gambling  is  not  confined  to  the 
hells  of  Paris.  The  men  of  the  ]>lains  and  forests  no 
less  resort  to  it  as  a  relief  to  the  tedious  monotony  of 
their  lives,  which  alternate  between  fierce  excitement  and 
listless  inaction,  i  fell  asleep  with  the  dull  notes  of  tlio 
drum  still  sounding  on  my  ear ;  but  these  orgies  lasted 
without  intermission  till  daylight.  I  was  soon  awakened 
by  one  of  the  children  crawling  over  me,  while  another 
larger  one  was  tugging  at  my  blanket  and  nestling  him- 
self in  a  very  disagreeable  j)roximity.  I  immediately  re- 
pelled these  advances  by  punching  the  heads  of  these 
miniature  savages  with  a  short  stick  which  I  always  kept 


i 

1  i 
i   ■ 

THE    HUNTING    CAMP. 


090 

•V  -W  1/ 


by  mc  for  the  jmrposo  ;  and  as  sleepiuL!;  half  tlio  day  and 
eatiii*^  much  more  than  is  good  I'oi'  thcni  makes  them 
extremely  restless,  this  operation  nsnally  had  to  be  ic- 
])eate(l  four  or  live  times  in  the  eonrse  of  the  niuht.  My 
host  himself  nas  the  anthor  of  another  t'ormidalile  annoy- 
ance. All  these  Indians,  and  he  amonu'  the  rest,  think 
themselves  liound  to  th(3  constant  perlnrmanee  of  certain 
acts  as  the  condition  on  which  tlieir  success  in  life  de- 
))en(ls,  whether  in  war,  love,  huntintr,  or  any  otlier  eni- 
jiloyiuent.  These  ''medicines,"  as  they  are  called,  which 
ai'c  usually  connnnnicated  in  dreams,  are  often  ahsurd 
cnouuh.  Some  Indians  will  strike  the  butt  of  the  pipe 
atrainst  the  ground  every  time  they  smoke;  othei's  will 
insist  that  every  thing  they  say  shall  he  interpreted  hy 
contraries;  and  Shaw  once  met  an  old  man  who  con- 
ceived that  all  would  he  lost  unless  he  compelled  eveiy 
white  man  he  met  to  drink  a  howl  of  cold  >vater.  My 
host  was  particularly  unfortunate  in  his  aliotment.  Tho 
spirits  had  told  him  in  a  dream  that  he  nnist  sing  a  cer- 
tain song  in  the  middle  of  every  night:  and  regularly  at 
about  twelve^  o'clock  his  d'smal  monotonous  chanting 
would  awaken  me,  and  1  would  see  him  seated  bolt  up- 
riglit  on  his  couch,  going  throiigh  his  dolorous  perlbrm- 
iince  with  a  most  bnsiiu^ss-like  air.  There  were  other 
voices  of  the  night,  still  more  inharmonious.  Twice  (  i' 
till  ice,  between  sunset  and  dawn,  all  the  dogs  in  the  vil- 
lage, and  there  were  hundreds  of  them,  would  bay  and 
yelp  in  chorus:  a  hon'.ble  clamor,  n'sembling  no  souik! 
iliat  J  liave  ever  heard,  except  perhaps  the  IVightful  howl- 
ing of  wolves  that  we  nsed  sometimes  to  hear,  long  after- 
ward, when  descending  the  Arkansas  on  the  trail  of 
(Jcncral  Kearney's  army.  This  canine  uproar  is,  if  possi- 
l>le.  more  discordant  than  that  of  the  wolves.  Ifeard  at 
a  distance  slowly  rising  on  the  night,  it  has  a  strange 


230 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


1. 
1 

^ 

uiioai'tlily  cricct,  and  would  fearfully  haunt  the  dreams  of 
a  nervous  hiau  ;  but  when  you  ai'e  sleeping  in  tlic  midst 
of  it,  the  <riu  Is  outrageous.  One  long,  loud  howl  begins 
it,  Mud  '»()ice  after  vjice  takes  uj)  the  sound,  till  it  passes 
around  the  wliole  cireumference  of  the  viHage,  and  the 
air  is  filled  with  eonfused  and  diseordant  erics,  at  onec 
lieree  and  mournful.  It  lasts  a  f e  v  moments,  and  then 
dies  away  into  silence. 

Moi'iiing  came,  and  Kongra-Tonga,  mounting  his  horse, 
rode  out  with  the  hunters.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  glance 
at  liini  for  an  instant  in  his  character  of  husband  and 
father.  Uoth  he  and  his  sipiaw,  like  most  other  Indians, 
were  very  fond  of  their  children,  whom  they  indulged  to 
excess,  and  never  punished,  except  in  extreme  cases, 
when  they  would  throw  a  bowl  of  cold  water  over  them. 
Their  oHsprmg  became  sufliciently  undutiful  and  dis- 
obedient under  this  system  of  education,  which  tends  riot 
a  little  to  foster  that  wild  idea  of  lil)erty  and  utter  intol- 
erance of  restraint  which  lie  at  the  foundation  of  the 
Indian  character,  it  would  be  hard  to  lind  a  fonder 
father  than  Kongra-Tonga.  There  was  one  urchin  in 
particular,  rather  less  than  two  feet  high,  to  whom  he 
was  exceedingly  attached;  and  sometimes  S])reading  a 
buffalo-robe  in  the  lodge,  he  would  seat  himself  ujion  it, 
place  his  small  favorite  upright  before  him,  and  chant  in 
a  low  tone  some  of  the  words  used  as  an  accom])animent 
to  the  war-dance.  The  little  fellow,  who  could  just  man- 
age to  balance  himself  by  stretching  out  both  arms, 
would  lift  his  feet  and  turn  slowly  round  and  round  in 
time  to  his  father's  music,  while  my  host  would  laugh 
with  delight,  and  look  smiling  up  into  my  face  to  see 
if  I  were  admiring  this  })rec(.)cious  performance  of  his 
offs[)ring.  In  his  ca{)acity  of  husband  he  was  less  tender. 
The  s(pKiw  who  lived  in  the  lodge  with  him  had  been  his 


.i 


THE     HUNTING    CAMP. 


231 


partner  for  many  years.  She  took  j^ood  care  of  his 
chihireu  and  liis  huiisehohl  concerns.  Ifc  liked  her  well 
enough, and  as  far  as  I  could  see,  they  neveiMjuarrelled;  l»ut 
his  warmer  affections  were  reserved  for  younger  and  more 
recent  favorites.  Of  these  he  had  at  })resent  only  one, 
avIkj  lived  in  a  lodge  a})art  from  his  own.  One  day  while 
in  tliis  cam}),  he  became  displeased  with  her,  pushed  her 
out,  threw  after  her  her  ornaments,  dresses,  and  every 
thing  she  liad,  and  told  her  to  go  home  to  her  father. 
Having  consunnnated  this  summary  divorce,  for  whieli  ho 
could  show  good  reasons,  he  came  back,  si-ated  himself 
in  his  usual  place,  and  began  to  smoke  with  an  air  of  the 
utmost  tranquillity  and  self-satisfaction. 

1  was  sitting  in  the  lodge  with  him  on  that  very  after- 
nooji.  when  I  felt  some  curiosity  to  learn  the  histoiy  of 
the  numerous  scars  that  a]ij)eared  on  his  nakeel  body.  Of 
some  of  them,  however,  1  did  not  venture  to  iufpiire,  for 
I  already  uuilerstood  their  oi'igin.  Each  of  his  arms  was 
marked  as  if  deeply  gashed  with  a  knife  at  regular  inter- 
vals, and  there  were  other  sears  also,  of  a  dilfei'ent  eiiar- 
acter,  on  his  back  and  on  either  breast.  They  were  the 
traces  of  the  toi'tures  which  these  Indians,  in  common 
with  a  few  other  tribes,  inilict  upon  themselves  at  certain 
seasons;  in  part,  it  may  be,  to  gain  tlic  glory  of  courage 
and  endurance,  lint  chiefly  as  an  act  of  self-sat-rilicc  to 
secure  the  favor  of  the  si)irits.  The  scars  upon  the  breast 
and  back  were  produced  by  running  through  the  llesh 
strong  splints  of  wood,  to  which  heavy  buffalo-skulls  are 
fastened  by  coi'<ls  of  hide,  and  the  wretch  runs  forward 
with  all  his  strength,  assisted  by  two  eomi);iiiions,  who 
take  hold  of  each  arm,  until  the  llesh  tears  ajiart  and 
the  skulls  are  left  behind.  Others  of  Kongi'a-Tonga's 
scars  were  the  result  of  accidents  ;  but  he  had  many  re- 
ceived in  war.     lie  was  one  of  the  most  noted  warriors  in 


r--'i 


^^ 


23-2 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I!H 


the  \  illiiue.  Ill  tlic  course  of  his  life  he  had  shihi,  as  lie 
boasted  to  me,  fourteen  ineu ;  and  ilioutili,  like  other  In- 
dians, he  w  as  a  braggart  and  liar,  yet  in  this  statement 
common  rcjjort  b(jre  him  out.  JJeing  liattered  by  my 
in(|niri('s,  li(!  told  me  tale  after  tale,  true  or  false,  of  his 
warlike  exploits  ;  and  there  was  one  among  the  rest  illus- 
trating" the  worst  features  of  Indian  character  too  well  for 
me  to  omit  it.  Pointing  out  of  the  oiiening  of  the  lodge 
towards  the  Medicine  Uow  Mountain,  not  many  miles  dis- 
tant, he  said  that  he  was  there  a  few  summers  ago  with  a 
\var-i)arty  of  his  young  men.  Here  they  found  two  Snake 
Indians,  liunfing.  They  shot  one  of  them  wdtli  ai'iows. 
and  chased  the  other  uj)  the  side  of  the  mountain  till  they 
surrounded  him,  and  Kongra-Tonga  himseli,  jiimiiiiig  for- 
ward among  the  trees,  seized  him  by  the  arm.  Two  of 
his  young  men  then  ran  up  and  ludd  him  fast  while  he 
scalped  liini  alive.  They  then  built  a  great  (Ire,  and  cut- 
ting the  tendons  of  their  captive's  wrists  and  feet,  threw 
him  in,  and  held  him  down  with  long  poles  until  he  was 
burnt  to  death.  He  garnished  his  story  wdth  descri})tive 
particulars  much  too  revolting  to  mention.  I J  is  features 
were  remarkaltly  mild  and  open,  without  the  fierceness 
of  expression  common  among  these  Indians  ;  and  as  he 
detailed  these  devilish  cruelties,  he  lookeil  u[)into  my  i'ace 
with  the  air  of  earnest  simplicity  which  a  little  child 
would  wear  in  relating  to  its  mother  some  anecdcjte  of  its 
youthful  experience. 

Old  ^rene-Seela's  lodge  could  offer  another  illustration 
of  the  ferocity  of  lii(li;in  wari'are.  A  bright-eyed  active 
little  boy  was  living  there  who  had  belonged  to  a  village 
of  the  (Iros-Vent  I'c  nUu^kfeet,  a  small  but  bloody  ami 
treacherous  hand,  in  close  alliance  with  the  Arapahoes, 
About  a  year  liet'ore.  KoiiLn'a-'J'onga  and  a  partv  of  war- 
riors  had   found    aliout  twenty  lodges  of  these   Indians 


THE    HUNTING    CAMP. 


233 


iijion  the  ]»lains  a  little  to  tlio  eastward  of  our  present 
caiuji ;  and  surroundinu  tlicni  in  the  nitilit,  tliey  hutcliered 
men,  women,  and  eliildreii,  prescrvinu'  oidy  tliis  littl(>  hoy 
alive.  IFc  was  a<h)pt('d  into  the  old  man's  family,  and 
was  now  fast  heeominu'  idontilicd  with  the  (),Liillallah  (diil- 
(Iren,  amon,i!'  whom  he  minu'led  on  etpial  terms.  There 
was  also  a  (h'ow  wari'ior  in  the  villaii'e,  a  man  of  <:ii2antic 
statni'(!  and  most  synuneti'ical  pi'oportions.  Ilavinu' hcen 
taken  prisoner  many  years  heforc  and  adopted  Wy  a  s(piaw 
in  place  of  a  son  whom  she  had  lost,  he  had  foriiotlen  his 
old  nationality,  and  was  now  both  in  act  and  inclination 
an  Ogillallah. 

It  will  he  rememhercd  that  the  scheme  of  the  grand 
war-party  against  the  Snake  and  Crow  Indians  originated 
in  this  village  ;  and  though  this  i»lan  had  fallen  to  the 
ground,  the  cmhers  of  martial  ardor  continued  to  glow. 
Eleven  young  men  had  prepared  to  go  out  against  the 
enemy,  and  the  fourth  day  of  our  stay  in  this  camp  was 
lixed  uj)on  for  their  dei)arturc.  At  the  head  of  this  party 
was  a  well-huilt,  active  little  Indian,  called  the  White 
Shield,  whom  1  had  always  noticed  for  the  neatness  of  his 
dress  and  appearance.  His  lodge  too,  though  not  a  large 
one,  was  the  best  in  the  village,  his  stpiaw  was  one  of  the 
])rcttiest,  and  altogether  his  dwelling  was  the  model  of  an 
Ogillallah  domestic  establishment.  I  was  often  a  visitor 
there,  for  the  White  Shield  l)eing  rather  partial  to  white 
men  used  to  invite  me  to  c(Uitinual  feasts  at  all  honrs  of 
the  day.  Once,  when  lln;  substantial  j.'art  of  the  enter- 
tainment was  o\er,  and  he  and  1  wei'c  seated  cross-legged 
on  a  Iniffalo-robe  smoking  together  very  amicably,  he  took 
down  his  warlike  e(juipments,  which  were  hanging  around 
the  lodge,  and  disi)laye(l  them  with  givat  pi'lde  and  self- 
importance.  Amonu'  the  rest  was  a  superb  liead-dress  of 
feathers.     Taking  this  from  its  case,  he  put  it  on  and 


:;(j 


2U 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


II  :  :< 


I  III 


slood  boforo  mc,  ])Oi"fcdly  conscious  of  tlie  gallant  air 
Avliicli  it  gave  io  liis  dai'k  lace  and  his  viuorous  gTacel'uI 
lignrc.  lie  told  nio  thai  upon  it  woiv  ihc  l!eatli('i's  of  three 
war-eagles,  e{inal  in  value  to  the  same  number  of  good 
horses.  He  took  up  also  a  shield  gayly  painleil  and  hung 
with  feathers.  The  efleet^  of  these  barbaric  ornaments 
was  admii'able.  His  quivin'  ^vas  made  of  the  sjiotted  skin 
of  a  small  jianthcr,  common  among  the  IJlaek  Hills,  from 
which  the  tail  and  distended  claws  were  still  allowed  to 
hang.  The  White  Shield  concluded  his  entertainment  in 
a  nninner  characteristic  of  an  Indian.  lie  beuued  of  mc 
a  little  })0wder  and  Indl,  for  he  had  a  gun  as  well  as  a  l)0\v 
and  arrows ;  but  this  1  was  obliged  to  refuse,  because  I 
had  scarcely  enough  for  my  own  use.  !!laking  him,  how- 
ever, a  }»arting  [U'cscnt  of  a  i)aper  of  vermilion,  1  left  him 
quite  contented. 

On  the  next  morning  the  White  Shield  took  cold,  and 
was  attacked  with  an  inllammation  of  the  throat.  Im- 
mediately he  seemed  to  lose  all  s])irit,  and  though  before 
no  wari'ior  in  the  village  had  boriu;  himself  more  jiroudly, 
he  now  moped  about  from  loilge  to  lodge  with  a  forlorn 
and  dejected  air.  At  length  he  sat  down,  close  wrapped 
in  his  robe,  before  the  lodge.'  of  lleynal,  l)ut  when  he  i'ouiid 
that  neither  he  nor  I  knew  how  to  relieve  him,  he  arose 
and  stalked  over  to  one  of  the  medicine-men  of  the  village. 
This  old  impostor  thum[)ed  him  for  some  time  with  both 
lists,  howled  and  yelped  over  him,  and  beat  a  drum  close 
to  his  eai"  to  expel  the  evil  spirit.  Tliis  treatment  failing 
of  tlie  desired  cfiect.  the  White  Sliiehl  withdrew  to  his 
own  lodge,  where  he  lay  disconsolate  lor  scnne  hours. 
Making  his  appearance  once  more  in  the  afternoon,  he 
again  took  his  scat  on  the  ground  before  Reyiial's  lodge, 
lujlding  his  throat  with  his  hand.  For  some  time  he  sat 
silent  with  his  eyes  fixed  mournfully  on  the  ground.  At 
last  lie  began  to  speak  in  a  low  tone. 


THE    HUNTING     CAMP. 


235 


"lama  brave  man,"  he  !<aid  ;  "all  the  young  men 
til  ink  me  a  urcat  wai'rior.  and  ten  of  them  arc  ready  to  go 
"with  me  to  the  war.  1  will  go  and  show  them  the  enemy. 
Last  sunnncr  lln;  Snakes  killed  my  hrothor.  I  eannot 
live  unless  1  revenge  his  deatli.  To-niu:row  we  will  set 
out  and  I  will  take  their  sealps." 

The  White  Shield,  as  he  expressed  this  resolution, 
seemed  to  have  lust  all  the  aeeustomed  lire  and  spirit 
of  his  look,  and  hung  his  head  as  it'  in  a  lit  of  despund- 
cney. 

As  I  was  sitting  that  evening  at  one  of  the  lircs,  I  saw 
him  arrayed  in  his  splendid  war-dress,  his  eheeks  painted 
with  vermilion,  leading  his  favorite  war-horse  to  the  front 
of  his  lodge.  He  mounted  and  rode  round  the  village, 
singiim'  his  war-sung  in  a  loud  hoarse  voiee  amid  the  shrill 

o        o  o 

aeclamations  uf  the  women.  Then  dismounting,  he  re- 
mained I'm"  some  minutes  })rostratc  Ujtun  the  ground,  as 
if  in  an  act  of  supplication.  On  the  following  morning  I 
looked  in  vain  for  the  departure  of  the  warriors.  All 
was  (piiet  in  the  village  until  late  in  the  forenoon,  when 
the  White  Shield  came  and  seated  himself  in  his  old  i)lacG 
before  us.  Reynal  asked  him  why  he  had  not  gone  out 
to  llnd  the  encmv  ? 


a 


I  cannot  go,"  he  answereil   in   a  dejected   voice. 


a 


have  given  my  war-arrows  to  the  ^leneaska.'" 

"  You  have  only  given  him  two  of  your   arrows,"  said 
Reynal.      "  If    you   ask   him,   he    will    give    them    bi.ck 


agam. 


For  some  time  the  WHiite  Shield  said  nothing.  At  last 
he  spoke  in  a  gloomy  tone, — 

"One  of  my  yt)ung  men  has  had  bad  di'eams.  The 
S})irits  of  the  dead  came  and  thrciv  stones  at  him  in  his 
slec[)." 

If  such  a  dream  had  actually  taken  place  it  might  have 


:.ff^!i 


ik      MM 

1  m 

it 

■  111 

iiitt 

■ 

236 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I 


!    t 


brokon  up  tins  or  any  otlior  war-party,  hut  both  Tlcynal 
and  I  \V('r(!  conviiK'ed  at  llic  time  tliat  it  was  a  nu'rc 
lahrication  to  excuse  his   remaining  at  home. 

'J'he  White  Shield  was  a  warrior  of  noted  ])rowess. 
VciT  ju'ohahly.  he  wouhl  have  received  a  mortal  wound 
^vithout  the  show  of  jiiiin,  and  endured  without  flinching 
the  worst  tortures  that  an  enemy  could  inllict  upon  him. 
'J'hc  whole  j)ower  ol'  an  l;:dian's  nature  would  be  sum- 
moned to  encounter  such  a  ti'ial  ;  every  influence  oC  his 
education  from  childhood  would  have  prepared  liim  for 
it ;  the  eausi.  of  his  sulf'ering  woidil  have  been  visihly  and 
palpably  before  him,  and  his  s})irit  would  rise  to  set  his 
enemy  at  defiance,  and  gain  the  highest  glory  of  a  warrior 
by  meeting  di'ath  witli  fortitude.  lint  when  he  feels  him- 
self attacked  by  a  mysterious  e^'il,  before  whose  assaults 
his  manhood  is  wasted,  and  his  strength  drained  away, 
when  he  c.^n  see  no  enemy  to  resist  and  defy,  the  boldest 
warrior  falls  i»rostrate  at  once.  He  believes  that  a  bad 
S})irit  has  taken  possession  of  him,  or  that  he  is  the  victim 
of  some  charm.  When  sulU'ring  from  a  protracted  dis- 
order, an  Indian  will  often  aliandon  himself  to  his  su[)- 
poscd  destiny,  pine  away  and  die,  the  victim  of  his  own 
imagination.  'JMic  same  cfTcct  will  often  follow  a  series 
of  calamities,  or  a  long  run  of  ill-luck,  and  India 'is  have 
been  known  to  ride  into  the  midst  of  an  enemy's  camp, 
or  attack  a  grizzly  bear  single-handed,  to  get  rid  of  a  life 
supi)osed  to  lie  under  the  doom  of  fate. 

Thus  after  all  his  f;''.sting,  dreaming,  and  calling  upon 
the  Great  S})irit,  the  White  Shield's  war-party  came  to 
nought. 


CIIAPTKR   XVI. 


I 


Till-:     TUAI'l'KUS. 


X  spoiikinj;  of  tlio  IiHliaiis,  I  liavo  almost  forji'otfon  two 
hold  ;i(lventni'L'rs  of  iUiotluM"  race,  tlie  trnitftcrs  Koii- 
leau  and  Sariiidiiii.  'J'hesc  nicii  were  bent  on  a  ha/ard- 
oiis  eiilcrprist',  Tlicy  Avere  on  their  way  to  tlu;  country 
ran<i'C'd  l)y  tlic  Arapaliocs,  a  day's  journey  west  of  our 
camp.  Tliese  Ara))alioes,  of  whom  Shaw  and  I  al'lerwards 
fell  in  witli  a  large  number,  are  ferocious  savages,  who  of 
late  had  declared  themselves  enemies  to  the  whites,  and 
threatened  death  to  the  first  who  should  venture  within 
their  territory.  The  occasion  of  the  declaration  was  as 
folhjws  :  — 

I'l  the  preceding  spring,  1845,  Col.  Kearney  left  I-'"'ort 
Leavenworth  with  several  com{)aniesof  dragoons,  marched 
to  Fort  Laramie,  ])asscd  along  the  foot  of  tlie  mountains  to 
Bent's  Fort,  and  then,  turning  eastward  again,  returned 
to  the  point  whence  lie  set  out.  While  at  Fort  Laramie, 
he  sent  a  jiart  of  his  command  as  far  westward  as  Sweet- 
water, while  he  himself  remained  at  the  fort,  and  de- 
spatched messnges  to  the  surrounding  Lidians  to  meet 
him  there  in  council.  'J'hen  for  the  first  time  the  tribes 
of  that  vicinity  saw  the  white  warriors,  and,  as  miglit 
have  been  expected,  they  were  lost  in  astonishment  at 
tlieir  regular  order,  their  gay  attire,  the  completeness  of 
their  martial  e(iuii)ment,  and  the  si/.e  and  strength  of  their 
horses.     Among  the  rest,  the  Arapahoes  came  in  consider- 


2']H 


Tin:  ORKGON  TitArr,. 


I  III 


al)l('  luiinlicrs  fo  <1i(.'  foi-t.  Tlicv  Imd  liitoly  committcfl 
iiuiucroiis  nmrdcrs,  and  Cul.  IvcariKiy  tln'calciUMl  that  if 
tliey  killed  any  nioro  wliil*.  iiicn  lie  would  liirii  loose  his 
(Ifa^nions  upon  tliein,  uu(\  aiiiiiliilah;  tlirir  iialioii.  In 
llie  cvcniii}:;,  U)  add  clUH't  to  liis  spfccli,  he  ordered  a 
howit/"!'  to  be  liriMl  and  a  rockel  (o  lie  llir(»uii  ii|».  Many 
of  111  Aiapalioes  lell  (lal  on  the  ^ronnd,  while  others  ran 
away  scrcaniinii'  with  an  r/enient  and  terror.  On  the  lol- 
l()win<^  day  they  withdnnv  to  iheir  mountains,  (lonfoundiMl 
at  the  njtpcarancc  oC  tho  drajioons,  at  thcii"  hi^'  unn  which 
went,  oil'  twice  at  one  shot,  and  the  fieiy  niessenu'er  which 
tlicy  had  sent  up  to  the  (Ireat  Spirit.  For  many  moiiths 
tlioy  I'emained  (pnet,  and  did  no  I'artlier  mischief.  At 
Icnj^'th,  just  hcforc!  we  came  into  IIk;  country,  oik;  oI"  them, 
by  ail  aet  of  the  hasest  ti'eaehery.  killed  two  whit(!  men, 
Boot  and  May.  who  were  trappinu"  amonu;  the  mountains. 
For  this  act  it  was  impossible  to  discover  a  moti\'e.  It 
Rccmed  to  spi-ing  from  one  of  tliose  inexplicable  impulses 
wliicli  often  jiossess  Indians,  and  which  ap|)ear  to  be  mei'e 
outbreaks  of  native  feroeity.  No  sooner  was  the  murder 
committed  than  the  wliohj  tribe  wei'e  in  consternation. 
They  exjieeted  every  day  that  the  avenu'int^  drati'oons 
wouUI  come,  little  thinkinu'  that  a  desert  of  inne  hundre(l 
miles  lay  lielween  them  and  their  enemy.  A  laru-e  depu- 
tation of  them  (;ame  to  Fort  Laramie,  brin<i:in^  a  valuable 
])rescnt  of  hoi'ses,  in  atonement.  'JMicsc  Bordeaux  I'efused 
to  accept.  They  then  asked  if  he  would  lie  satisfied  with 
their  delivering'  up  the  murderer  himself;  but  lie  decliiKMl 
this  olTer  also.  The  Arapahoes  went  back  more  teri-ified 
than  ever.  Weeks  passed  away,  and  still  no  drau'oons 
a])peared.  A  result  followed  which  those  best  ac(piainted 
with  Indians  had  predicted.  They  imagined  that  fear 
had  prevented  Bordeaux  from  aece]»ting  their  gifts,  and 
that  they  had  nothhig  to  apjirehend  from  the  vengeance  of 


'I'lir,    Tl!  MM'KUS. 


'2'M) 


llic  wliilrs.  FnuM  Icrroi"  tlx'y  I'osc  in  Ihc  Iicitilit  ol"  inso- 
lence. Tliey  culled  llie  wliile  men  citwiiiiU  Jiml  <»lil 
women  ;  sind  :i  iVienilly  I)iili('o(;ili  cnme  lo  l''ni't  liUi'Mniio 
with  I  lie  re|)(iit  tli;it  tliey  were  delei'iuiiiod  lo  Uill  the  first 
wliile  dni;'  lliey  could  liiy  hands  on. 

Hud  II  mililiiry  oHicef,  with  snituhle  powers,  liceii  stii- 
tione(|  iit  I''oi't  iiiii'iimie:  had  he  accepted  the  oiler  of  tho 
Ai'apahoes  to  deliver  up  the  nnu'derer,  and  ordere(|  him 
to  lie  led  out  a  lid  shot,  in  presence  of  his  I  ri  he,  they  won  Id 
have  heen  aweil  into  tran(piillily,  ami  nuu'lidanuci' a  verted  ; 
liiit  now  the  neinhhorjiood  of  the  Medicine  l>o\v  ^h(l^ltaill 
was  perilous  in  tlii'  extreme.  Old  iMenc-Seela,  a.  tr'iio 
(Viend  ol"  the  whites,  and  many  othei'  of  the  Indians, 
•i'athei'od  ahoiit  the  two  trappers,  and  vainly  endea\dred  to 
turn  tliem  I'roni  th(;ir  ))urpose;  hut  Honlcauand  Saraphiii 
only  laiiLihed  at  the  danucr.  On  the  niorninu'  precedin*^ 
that  on  wlii(di  they  were  to  h'ave  tho  camp,  we  could  all 
see  faint  w  liito  columns  of  smoke  rising  against  th(?  dark 

Scouts  were  sent  out  immedi- 


hasc  of  the  Medicine  ii.iw. 
ately.  and  re|»orted  that  these  j)rocee(led  from  an  Arapalioe 
camp,  ahaudoned  only  a  few  hours  hefoi'e.  Still  the  two 
trapjjcrs  continued  theii*  ])repai'ations  for  depart ui(>. 

Saraiihiu  was  a  tall,  |)owerful  fellow,  with  a  sullen  and 
sinister  countenance.  His  I'ifle  had  very  jiroliahly  drawn 
other  hlood  than  that  of  hidlido  or  Indians.  Rouleau  had 
a  hroad  ruddy  face,  marked  with  as  few  traces  of  tlu,>i!i;lit 
or  care  as  a  child's.  His  tigure  was  square  and  stronu;, 
hut  the  lirst  joints  of  Itotli  his  feet  wore  frozen  off,  and 
his  horse  had  hdely  thrown  and  trampled  upon  him,  hy 
which  he  had  heen  severcdy  injured  in  the  chest.  Ihit 
iiothintr  could  suhdue  his  gayety.  He  went  all  day  roll- 
ing ahout  the  camp  on  his  stumps  of  feet,  talking,  singing, 
and  frolicking  with  the  Indian  women.  Rouleau  had  an 
unlucky  partiality  for  squaws,    lie  always  liad  one,  whom 


'f^^;i 


bill 


210 


THE    OIlIKiON    TK.MI- 


lio  must  needs  lu'di/cn  witli  IicjkIs,  lihhons,  nnd  nil  tlic 
(iiiciy  (»r  iiii  liidiuii  wiiiMlrohc  ;  and  tlioiiuh  lie  wuh  olilip'd 
to  leave  her  lieliiiid  liiiii  diii-iiiu;  liis  e.\])e(liti()ns,  iliis  lui/,- 
ai'doiis  necessity  did  not  at  all  trouldo  hiiu,  lor  liis  dis- 
jiosition  was  the  I'everso  of  Jealous.  If  at  any  time  he 
had  not  lavished  the  whole  of  the  [)recarions  profits 
of  his  V(u;iition  uj)on  his  dark  favorite,  he  devoted  the 
rest  to  feasting'  his  comrades.  If  li(|Uoi'  was  not  to  he 
had  —  and  this  was  usually  the  case  —  st ronti' coffee  would 
lie  suhstitnted.  As  the  men  of  that  re^'ion  are  hy  no 
means  renjarkahle  for  providence  or  self-restraint,  what- 
ever was  set  hefore  them  on  these  oc(!asions,  however  ex- 
travau'ant  in  price  or  enormous  in  (piantity,  was  sur(>  to 
he  disposed  of  at  one  sitting'.  liikc  other  trajipers.  Rou- 
leau's life  was  one  of  contrast  and  variety.  It  was  only 
at  certain  seasons,  and  for  a  limited  time;,  that  he  was 
absent  on  his  expeditions.  For  the,'  rest  of  the;  year  lie 
would  loun.Li'e  aljout  the  fort,  or  encamp  with  liis  friends  in 
its  vicinity, liuntin|Li',  or  enjoying  all  the  luxury  of  inaction  ; 
hut  when  once  in  |)ursuit  of  the  heaver,  he  was  involved 
in  extreme  privations  and  perils.  Hand  ajid  foot,  eye 
and  ear,  must  he  always  alert.  Fi-cipiently  he  must  con- 
tent himself  with  dev()uriii<i'  liis  evenin<i'  meal  uncooked, 
lest  the  li<i,lit  of  his  lire  should  attract  the  eyes  of  some 
wanderiuL!;  Indian;  and  sometimes  having'  made  his  rude 
repast,  he  must  leave  his  lire  still  hla/.ing,  and  withdraw 
to  a  distance  under  cover  of  the  darkness,  that  his  disap- 
})ointe(l  enemy,  drawn  thither  l»y  the  li,ti,'ht,  may  find  his 
victim  lione,  and  Ije  unable  to  trace  his  footsteps  in  the 
jrloom.  This  is  the  life  led  hy  scores  of  men  amon<>-  the 
llocky  Mountains.  1  once  met  a  ti-n|)|)er  wliose  breast 
was  marked  with  the  scars  of  six  bullets  and  arrows, 
one  of  his  arms  broken  by  a  shot  and  one  of  his  knees 
shattered  ;  yet  still,  with  the  mettle  of  New  England, 


tin;   tu a I'im; Its. 


•J  11 


\\ 


lit'iicc   lir  IkkI  coiiic,  lu-  coiitiiiucil  to  rollinv  liis  iicriloiis 


calliiiU'. 


Oil  (lir  last  (lay  of  our  slay  in  lliis  ciunp,  llic  IrapixTH 
svcri'  ready  lor  (l('|iartiir(!.  Wlicii  in  tin;  IJlack  J I  ills  llicy 
had  caii'-lil  sovcii  beiivcrs,  uiid  (liry  now  WM  Ihoir  skins 
ill  (•liarj:(!  of  Ilcyiial,  to  he  k('|tt  iiiilil  their  roturii.  Their 
stroiij^,  j,^aiiiit,  horses  were  CMiiii|i|ied  with  rusty  Spanish 
hits,  and  rude  Mexiean  saddles,  to  which  wooden  stir- 
I'lips  \ver(!  attaeh(.'d,  whih;  a  hutlalo-rohe  was  rolled  up  ho- 
hiiid,  and  a  Inindlo  of  heaver-traps  slnni;'  at  the  pommel. 
These,  to;;ether  with  their  rilles,  knives,  j)owder-liorns 
and  hulIet-poiK'hes,  Hint  and  steel  and  a  tin  cup,  com- 
|»()sed  their  whole  t  lavellinii,-  e(piipment.  They  shook 
hamls  with  us,  and  rod(!  auay;  Saraphin,  with  his  }:,rini 
countenance,  was  in  advam-e  ;  hut  Itouleau,  (•lamlterin<; 


\r,',\y\y  into  his  seat,  kicked  his  horse's  siiles,  llourished  his 
wliij),  and  trotted  briskly  over  the  |)rairie,  trolling'  forth  u 
Canadian  song  at  tlie  top  of  his  Noice.  Iveynal  looked 
after  theui  with  liis  face  of  hrutal  sellishness. 

"  Well,"  ho  said,  "  if  they  are  killeil,  1  shall  have  tho 
heaver.  They'll  fetch  me  fifty  dollars  at  the  fort,  any- 
how." 

This  was  the  last  I  saw  of  them. 

We  had  heen  live  days  in  the  huntiiiLi-camp,  and  the 
meat,  which  all  this  time  had  himu'  dryinu'  in  tin?  sun,  was 
now  lit  for  transportation.  Dufliilo-hides  also  had  heeu 
procured  iii  suflicient  (plant it ies  for  makinjj;  the  next 
season's  lo(if>'es  ;  but  it  remained  to  provide  the  lont?  poles 
on  which  they  were  to  he  suppoiied.  'J'liese  were  only  to 
be  had  anion;,!;  the  tall  spruce  woods  of  the  IJlack  Jlills,  and 
in  that  direction  therefore  oiir  next  move  was  to  be  made. 
Amid  the  <ieiieral  abundance  which  during  this  time  had 
jn'cvailed  in  the  camp,  there  were  no  instances  of  indi- 
vidual ])rivation  ;  for  although  the  hide  and  the  tongue  of 

IC 


m. 


•ir: 


242 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


tlio  bufTalo  l)eli)n<^  by  oxcluslvc  riglit  to  tlio  liuiitor  wlio 
lias  killed  it,  yet  any  one  else  is  c({iially  entitled  to  liclp 
liiiuself  iVoni  tlic  rest  of  the  careass.  Thus  tlie  weak,  the 
aged,  and  even  tlic  indolent  come  in  for  a  share  of  the 
sjjoils,  and  many  a  helpless  old  woman,  who  would  other- 
wise i>erish  from  starvation,  is  sustained  in  al)undanee. 

On  the  twenty-fd'th  of  July,  late  in  the  afternoon,  the 
cam) I  broke  up,  with  the  usual  tumult  and  confusion,  and 
we  all  moved  once  more,  on  horseback  and  on  foot,  over 
the  ])lains.  We  advanced  however  but  a  few  iniles.  The 
old  men,  who  during  the  whole  march  had  been  stonily 
striding  along  on  foot  in  front  of  the  people,  now  seated 
themselves  in  a  circle  on  the  ground,  while  the  families, 
erecting  their  lodges  in  tl\e  })rescribed  oxler  arouiul  them, 
formed  the  usual  great  circle  of  the  camj);  meanwliilc 
these  village  patriarchs  sat  smoking  and  talking.  I 
thi'ew  my  bridle  to  Raymond,  and  sat  down  as  usual  along 
with  them.  There  was  none  of  that  reserve  and  appar- 
ent dignity  which  an  Indian  always  assumes  when  in 
council,  or  in  the  ])resence  of  white  men  whom  he  dis- 
trusts. The  jiarty,  on  the  contrary,  was  an  extremely 
merry  one,  and  as  in  a  social  circle  of  a  quite  different 
character,  "  if  there  was  not  mucli  wit,  there  was  at  least  a 
great  deal  of  laughter." 

When  the  first  ]»i])e  was  smoked  out,  I  rose  and  with- 
drew to  the  lodge  of  my  host.  Here  I  was  stooping,  in 
the  act  of  taking  off  my  }mwder-horn  and  Inillet-pouch, 
when  suddenly,  and  close  at  hand,  pealing  loud  and  shrill, 
and  in  right  good  earnest,  came  the  terrific  yell  of  the 
war-whooj).  Kongra-Tonga's  srpiaw  snatched  up  her 
youngest  child,  and  ran  out  of  the  lodge.  I  followed, 
and  found  the  whole  village  in  confusion,  resounding  with 
cries  and  yells.  The  circle  of  old  men  in  the  centre  had 
vanished.     The  warriors,  with  glittering  eyes,  came  dart- 


THE  TRArrEiis. 


243 


111 


<>'. 


W( 


capons  in  liand,  out  of  the  1 


0\V    OJlOlllll'i'S    o 


f  ilie 


lodges,  and  running  with  Avihl  yells  towards  the  I'arlher 
end  of  the  village.  Advancing  a  few  rods  in  that  direc- 
tion, I  saw  a  erowd  in  furious  agitation.  Just  then  1  dis- 
tinguished the  voices  of  Raymond  and  Rcynal,  shouting 
to  me  from  a  distance,  and  looking  Ijack,  1  saw  the  latter 
with  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  standing  on  the  farther  l>ank 
of  Jt  little  stream  that  ran  along  the  outskirts  of  the  camp. 
lie  \\'as  calling  to  Raymond  and  me  to  come  over  and 
join  liim,  and  Raymond,  with  his  usual  deliherate  gait  and 
stolid  countenance,  was  nlreadv  movinu'  in  that  direction. 


This  was  clearlv  the  wisest  course,  unlc 


SS   we   WISlKM 


Ito 


involve  ourselves  in  the  fray;  so  1  turned  to  go,  hut  Just 
then  a  pair  of  eyes,  gleaming  like  a  snake's,  and  an  aged 
familiar  countenance  was  thrust  from  the  opening  of  a 
neighl)oring  lodge,  and  out  holted  old  Mene-Sccla,  full  of 
fight,  clutciiing  his  how  and  arrows  in  one  hand  and  his 
knife  in  the  other.  At  tliat  instant  he  tri[»ped  and  fell 
sj)rawling  on  his  face,  while  his  weapons  tlcw  scattering 
in  every  direction.  The  women  with  loud  screams  were 
hurrying  with  their  children  in  their  arms  to  place  thein 
out  of  danger,  and  I  observed  some  hastening  to  prevent 
mischief,  hy  carrying  away  all  the  weapons  they  could  lay 
hands  on.  On  a  rising  ground  close  to  the  camp  stood  a 
line  of  old  women  singing  a  mediciiie-soug  to  allay  the 
tiunult.  As  1  api)roached  the  side  of  the  hrook,  I  heard 
gun-shots  beliind  me.  and  turning  hack  saw  that  the  crowd 
had  separated  into  two  long  lines  of  naked  warriors  con- 
fronting each  other  at  a  respectful  distance,  and  yelling 
and  jumping  about  to  dodge  tlui  shot  of  tiicir  adversa- 
ries, while  they  discharged  bullets  and  arrows  against 
each  other.  At  the  same  time  certain  sharp,  humming 
sounds  in  the  air  over  my  head,  like  the;  flight  of  beetles 
on  a  summer  eveniim*  warned  me  that  the  danuer  was 


i  A 


w 


i 


2U 


Tllli     OREGON    TRAIL. 


not  wliolly  confined  to  the  immediate  scene  of  the  fray. 
So  wadinj^  llirougli  the  brook,  1  joined  lleynal  and  11  ly- 
mond,  and  we  sat  down  on  tlic  grass,  in  the  posture  of 
an  aimed  ncutrahty,  to  watch  the  result. 

nnjtjjily  it  may  be  for  ourselves,  though  contrary  to  our 
exjiet'tation,  the  disturbance  was  quelled  almost  as  soon 
as  it  began.  When  1  looked  again,  the  combatants  were 
once  more  mingled  together  in  a  mass.  Though  yells 
sounded  occasionally  from  the  throng,  the  firing  had  en- 
tirely ceased,  and  I  observed  five  or  six  persons  moving 
busily  about,  as  if  acting  the  part  of  peace-makers.  One 
of  the  village  heralds  or  criers  proclaimed  in  a  loud  voice 
something  which  my  two  companions  were  too  much  en- 
grossed in  their  own  observations,  to  translate  for  me. 
The  crowd  began  to  dis})erse,  though  many  a  deep-set 
black  eye  still  glittered  with  an  umiatuial  lustre,  as  the 
warriors  slowly  withdrew  to  their  lodges.  This  fortunate 
suppression  of  the  disturbance  was  owing  to  a  few  of  the 
old  men,  less  pugnacious  than  Mene-Seela,  who  boldly  ran 
in  between  the  coml)atants,  and  aided  by  some  of  the 
"  soldiers,"  or  Indian  police,  succeeded  in  elfecting  their 
oltject. 

It  seemed  very  strange  to  me  that  although  many  ar- 
rows and  bullets  were  discharged,  no  one  was  mortally 
hurt,  and  I  could  only  account  for  this  by  the  fact  that 
both  the  marksman  and  the  object  of  his  aim  were  leaping 
about  incessantly.  By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  villngers 
had  joined  in  the  fray,  for  although  there  were  not  more 
than  a  dozen  guns  in  the  whole  camp,  I  heard  at  least 
eight  or  ten  shots  fired. 

Ln  a  quarter  of  an  hour  all  was  comparatively  quiet. 
A  gronp  of  warriors  was  again  seated  in  the  middle  of 
the  village,  but  this  time  I  did  not  venture  to  join  them, 
because  1  could  see   that  the  i)ipe,  contrary  to  the  usual 


THE    TRAPPERS. 


245 


order,  was  jiassing  from  the  left  hand  to  tlie  riglit  around 
tlic  circle  ;  a  sure  sign  that  a  "nicdicinc-smokc  "  of  recon- 
ciliation was  going  forward,  and  that  a  white  man  would 
be  an  intruder.  AVhcn  1  iigain  entered  the  still  agitated 
canij)  it  was  nearly  dark,  and  mournful  cri(\s,  howls,  and 
wailings  resounded  from  many  female  voices.  Whether 
tlicse  had  any  connection  with  the  late  disturbance,  or 
were  merely  lamentations  for  relatives  slain  in  some 
former  war  expeditions,  I  could  not  distinctly  ascertain. 

To  inquire  too  closely  into  the  cause  of  the  quarrel  was 
l>y  no  means  prudent,  and  it  was  not  until  some  time  after 
that  I  discovered  what  had  given  rise  to  it.  Among  the 
Dahcotah  there  are  many  associations  or  fraternities, 
superstitious,  warlike,  or  social.  Among  them  was  one 
called  "The  Arrow-Breakers,"  now  in  great  measure  dis- 
l)anded  and  dis))ersed.  In  the  village  there  were  however 
four  men  belonging  to  it,  distinguished  by  the  peculiar 
arrangement  of  their  hair,  which  rose  in  a  high  bristling 
mass  above  their  foreheads,  adding  greatly  to  their  ap- 
jKirent  height,  and  giving  them  a  most  ferocious  api)ear- 
ance.  The  princi|)al  among  them  was  the  Mad  Wolf,  a 
warrior  of  remarkable  size  and  strength,  great  courage, 
and  the  fierceness  of  a  demon.  I  had  always  looked  u{)on 
him  as  the  most  dangerous  man  in  the  village  ;  and  though 
he  often  invited  me  to  feasts,  I  never  entered  his  lodge 
unarmed.  The  Mad  Wolf  had  taken  a  fancy  to  a  line 
horse  belonging  to  another  Indian,  called  the  Tall  IJear; 
and  anxious  to  ^^ci  the  animal  into  his  possession,  ho 
made  the  owner  a  present  of  another  horse  nearly  eipial 
in  value.  According  to  the  customs  of  the  Dahcotah,  the 
acceptance  of  this  gift  involved  a  sort  of  obligation  to 
nud^e  a  return;  and  the  Tall  IJear  well  understood  that 
the  other  had  his  favorite  buffalo-horse  in  view.  lie  how- 
ever accepted  the  })rcsent  without  a  word  of  thanks,  and 


246 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


ih 


having  ])ickcted  the  horse  before  his  lodge,  sufiercd  day 
after  (Uiy  <o  pass  without  making  the  expected  return. 
The  Mad  Wolf  grew  impatient ;  and  at  last,  seeing  that 
his  l)ounty  was  not  likely  to  produce  the  desired  result, 
he  resolved  to  reclaim  it.  So  this  evening,  as  soon  as 
the  village  was  encamped,  he  went  to  tlie  lodge  of  the 
Tall  IJcar,  seized  upon  the  horse  he  had  given  him,  and 
led  him  away.  At  this  the  Tall  Bear  broke  into  one  of 
those  fits  of  sullen  rage  not  uncommon  among  Indians, 
ran  up  to  Ihc  unfortunate  horse,  and  gave  him  three  mor- 
tal stal)s  willi  his  knife.  Quick  as  lightning  the  Mad 
Wolf  drew  his  bow  to  its  utmost  tension,  and  held  the 
arrow  (piivering  close  to  the  breast  of  his  adversary.  The 
Tall  Bear,  as  the  Indians  who  were  near  him  said,  stood 
with  his  bloody  knife  in  his  hand,  facing  the  assailant 
witli  the  utmost  calmness.  Some  of  his  friends  and  rela- 
tives, seeing  his  danger,  ran  liastily  to  his  assistance. 
The  remaining  three  Arrow-Breakers,  on  the  other  liand, 
came  to  the  aid  of  their  associate.  Their  IViends  joined 
them,  the  war-cry  was  raised,  and  tlie  tumult  became 
general. 

The  '•  soldiers,"  who  lent  their  timely  aid  in  putting  it 
down,  are  the  most  important  executive  functionaries  in 
an  Indian  village.  The  office  is  one  of  considerable  lionor, 
being  confided  oidy  to  men  of  courage  and  repute.  They 
derive  their  authority  from  the  old  men  and  chief  war- 
riors of  the  village,  who  elect  tliem  in  councils  occasionally 
convened  for  the  ])urj)ose,  and  thus  can  exercise  a  degree 
of  authority  which  no  one  else  in  the  village  would  dare 
to  assume.  While  very  few  Ogillallah  chiefs  could  venture 
without  risk  (jf  their  lives  to  strike  or  lay  liaiids  u}»on  tlie 
meanest  of  their  ])eople,  the  "'  soldiers."  in  the  discharge 
of  their  apiiroi)riate  functions,  have  full  license  to  make 
use  of  these  and  similar  acts  of  coercion. 


C II  APT  Ell    XVII. 

* 

THE   BLACK   HILLS. 

"\T  TE  travelled  eastward  I'-.-  two  days,  and  then  the 
^  '  gloomy  ridges  of  the  JJlack  Hills  rose  up  l}el'ore 
us.  The  viihiu'e  passed  along  for  some  miles  beneath 
their  declivities,  trailing  out  to  a  great  length  over  the 
arid  })rairie,  or  win<ling  among  small  detached  hills  of 
distorted  shapes.  Turning  sharply  to  the  lei't,  we  entered 
a  wide  delile  of  the  mountains,  down  the  bottom  oi'  which 
a  brook  came  winding,  lined  with  tall  gi'ass  and  dense 
copses,  amid  ^vhich  wei'C  hidden  many  beaver  dams  and 
lodges.  We  ])assed  along  between  two  lines  of  high  pre- 
cipices and  rocks  })iled  in  disorder  one  upon  another,  with 
scarcely  a  tree,  a  bush,  or  a  clunij)  of  grass.  The  restless 
Indian  bovs  wandered  alonu'  their  edu'es  an<l  clambered 
Uj)  and  down  their  rugged  sides,  and  sometimes  a  group 
of  them  would  stand  on  tiie  verge  of  a  clilf  and  look  down 
on  the  procession  as  it  ))assed  beneath.  As  we  advanced, 
the  passage  grew  more  narrow  ;  then  it  suddenly  expand-cd 
into  a  round  grassy  meadow,  completely  encomj)assed  by 
mountains  ;  and  here  the  families  st(_)pped  as  they  came 
up  in  turn,  and  the  camp  rose  like  magic. 

The  lodges  were  hardly  pitched  when,  with  their  usual 
precipitation,  the  Indians  set  al)Out  accomplishing  the 
object  that  had  brought  them  there  ;  that  is,  ol)taining 
poles  for  their  new  lodges.  Half  the  population,  men, 
Women,  and  boys,  mounted  their  horses  and  set  out  for 


248 


THE    OREOON    TRAIL. 


Ill' 


tlio  depths  of  ilio  mouniains.  It  was  a  strange  caval- 
cade, as  they  rode  at  lull  gallop  over  tlie  shingly  i-ocks 
and  into  the  dark  ojiening  of  tlic  defile  l)eyond.  We 
passed  between  precipices,  sharp  and  si)lintering  at  the 
toj)S,  their  sides  beetling  over  the  defile  or  descending  in 
abrupt  declivities,  bristling  with  fir-trees.  On  our  left 
thev  rose  close  to  ns  like  a  wall,  but  on  the  riuht  a  windiu"!; 
brook  with  a  narrow  strij)  of  marshy  soil  intervened. 
The  stream  was  clogged  with  oil  beaver-dams,  and  spread 
frequently  into  wide  pools.  There  were  thick  bushes  and 
many  dead  and  blasted  trees  along  its  course,  though  fre- 
quently nothing  remained  but  stumps  cut  close  to  the 
ground  by  the  beaver,  and  marked  with  the  sharp  chisel- 
like teeth  of  those  indefatigal)le  laborers.  Sometimes 
we  dived  among  trees,  and  then  emerged  upon  o})en 
spots,  over  which,  Indian-like,  all  galloped  at  full  sj)eed. 
As  Pauline  bounded  over  the  rocks  I  felt  her  saddle-girth 
sli{)ping,  and  alighted  to  draw  it  tighter;  when  tin;  whole 
calvacade  swept  past  uw  in  a  UKunent,  the  women  with 
their  gaudy  ornaments  tinkling  as  they  rode,  the  men 
whooping,  laughing,  and  lashing  forward  their  horses. 
Two  black-tail('(l  deer  bounded  away  among  the  rocks  ; 
Raymond  shot  at  them  from  horseback  ;  the  sharp  rej)ort 
of  his  rifle  was  answered  by  another  equally  sharp  from 
tlie  opposing  cliffs,  and  then  the  echoes,  leaping  in  rapid 
succession  from  side  to  side,  died  away  rattling  far  amid 
the  mountains. 

After  having  ridden  in  this  manner  six  or  eight  miles, 
the  scene  eluinged,  and  all  the  declivities  were  covered 
with  forests  of  tall,  slender  spruce-trees.  The  Indians 
began  to  fall  off  to  the  right  and  left,  dispersing  with 
their  hatchets  and  knives  to  cut  the  })oles  which  they  had 
come  to  seek.  1  was  soon  '"ft  almost  alone  ;  but  in  the 
stillness  of  those  lonely  mountains,  the  stroke  of  hatchets 


THE    BLACK    HILLS. 


249 


and  ilic  sound  of  voices  migiit  be  heard  from  far  and 
near. 

Reynal,  who  imitated  tlie  Indians  in  tlicir  lial)its  as  well 
as  the  worst  features  of  their  character,  liad  IcilkMl  huflalo 
enouti'h  to  make  a  lodu'e  for  liimself  and  liis  squaw,  and 
now  he  was  ciiuer  to  i^'et  the  poles  necessary  to  ct)m|)lete 
it.  He  asked  me  to  let  Raymond  <i;()  with  him,  and  assist 
in  the  woi'k.  1  assented,  and  the  two  ukmi  immediately 
entered  the  thickest  part  of  the  wood.  llavin.L','  left  my 
hors(!  in  Raymond's  keeping',  1  bcLran  to  climb  tiie  moun- 
tain. 1  was  weak  and  weary,  and  made  slow  pi"o<;ress, 
often  ))ausin!j:  to  rest,  but  after  an  lujur,  I  gained  a  heiuht 
whence  the  little  valley  out  of  which  I  had  climi)ed 
seemed  like  a  deep,  dark  gulf,  though  the  inaccessible 
peak  of  the  mountain  was  still  towering  to  a  nuu;h 
greater  distance  above.  Objects  familiar  from  childhood 
surrounded  me  ;  crags  and  rocks,  a  black  and  sullen 
brook  that  gurgled  with  a  hollow  voice  deep  among  the 
crevices,  a  wood  of  mossy  distorted  trees  and  ])rostrate 
trunks  ilung  down  bv  atic  and  storms,  scattered  among 
the  rocks,  or  damming  the  foaming  Avaters  of  the  brook. 

^\'ild  as  they  were,  these  mountains  were  thickly  peo- 
pled. As  I  climbed  farther,  1  Ibund  the  broad  dusty  paths 
made  by  the  elk,  as  they  hied  across  the  mountain  side. 
Tlie  grass  on  all  the  terraces  was  trampled  down  by 
deer ;  there  were  numerous  tracks  of  wolves,  and  in 
some  of  the  rougher  and  more  {)recipitous  parts  of  the 
ascent,  I  found  ibot-))rints  dilferent  from  any  that  I  had 
ever  seen,  and  which  1  took  to  be  those  of  the  Rocky 
Alountain  sheep.  1  sat  down  upon  a  roek  ;  there  was  a 
perfect  stillness.  No  wind  was  stirring,  and  not  even 
an  insect  could  be  heard.  I  rememl)ered  the  danger  of 
becoming  lost  in  such  a  ))lace,  and  fixed  my  eye  uj)on 
one  of  the  tallest  pinnacles  of  the  opi)Osite   mountain. 


^^TTFpp 

''   i :  ' 

}^t  II 


T' 


250 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I 


It  rose  sheer  iipriglit  from  the  woods  l»el(j\v,  and,  ])y  an 
cxtraordiimry  IVcak  of  natui'o,  sustained  aloft  on  its  very 
sunnnit  a  lart;e  loose  rock.  Sucli  a  landmark  could  never 
be  mistaken,  and  feeling  onc(;  more  secure,  1  liegan  again 
to  move  forward.  X  white  wolf  jumped  uj)  from  among 
some  l)ush<s,  and  oa)  3d  clumsily  away ;  but  he  slopped 
lor  i;  or'>  .  ...  I  jn  icd  back  his  keen  eye  and  grim 
bristling  rui-  .'  longed  to  take  his  scalp  and  carry  it 

back  with  me.  ,i  a  t"  iliv  of  the  J]la(dc  J 1  ills,  but  befoi'C 
1  c(juld  fire,  be  was  gone  among  the  rocks.  .Soon  after  I 
heard  a  rustling  sound,  with  a  cracking  of  twigs  at  a 
little  distance,  and  saw  moving  above  the  tall  bushes  the 
branching  antlers  of  an  elk.  1  was  in  the  midst  of  a 
hunter's    paradise. 

Such  are  the  iilack  Hills,  as  I  found  them  in  duly; 
but  they  wear  a  diffei'ent  garb  when  winter  sets  in,  when 
the  broad  boughs  of  the  fir  trees  are  bent  to  the  ground 
by  the  load  of  snow,  and  the  dark  mountains  are  white 
with  it.  At  that  season  i..o  trapjiers,  returned  from  their 
autumn  expetlitions,  often  build  their  cabins  in  the  midst 
of  these  solitudes,  and  livi;  in  abundance  and  luxury  on 
the  game  that  hari'ors  there.  1  hav(3  heard  them  tell, 
how  with  their  tawny  mistresses,  and  perhaps  a  i'ew 
young  Jndian  com})anions,  they  had  spent  months  in  total 
seclusion.  They  would  dig  pitfalls,  and  set  traps  for  the 
white  wolves,  sables,  and  martens,  and  though  through 
the  whole  night  the  awful  chorus  of  the  wolves  would 
resound  from  tlu;  fn>/en  mountains  around  them,  yet 
within  their  massive  walls  of  logs  thev  would  lie  in  care- 
less  ease  before  the  Idazing  lire,  and  in  the  morning  shoot 
the  elk  and  deer  from  their  very  door. 


II  ^i! 


CiJAPTKK    XVllI. 


A    MOUNTAIN     HUNT. 


T 


HE  ciinp  was  full  of  the  newly-cut  Ljiiiie-ixjles ; 
some,  already  preijaicd,  were  staeked  togelj-  .,  • ''ute 
and  glisteninji",  to  dry  and  harden  in  the  su'i;  <■  .-rs 
were  lying  on  the  ground,  and  the  squaws,  the  .  \  s,  and 
even  some  of  the  warriors,  were  busily  at  \.v.r.'  <  eeling 
off  the  bark  and  ])aring  them  with  their  knives  to  the 
])roj)er  dimensions.  Must  (A'  the  hiiles  ob.  i'  1  at  the 
last  eamp  were  dressed  and  serapcid  thin  enough  for  use, 
and  manv  of  the  S(|uaws  were  enuaued  in  fitting  them 
together  and  sewing  them  with  sinews,  to  I'orm  tho 
coverinus  for  the  lodues.  Men  were  wandering  among 
the  bushes  that  lined  the  brook  along  the  mai'gin  of  the 
eam[»,  cutting  sticks  of  red  willow,  or  shoii(/t<a)iha,  tho 
l)ark  of  which,  mixed  with  t<jiiai'co,  they  use  for  smok- 
ing.    Keynal's  sipiaw  was  hai'd  at  work  with    her    awl 


\nd  Ituffiilo  sinews  upon 


her  1< 


nliic,  while  her  proj)rietor. 


having  just  finished  an  enormous  breakfast  of  meat,  was 
smoking  a  social  ])ipe  with  Raymond  and  myself.  He 
proposed  at  length  that  we  should  go  out  on  a  hunt. 
'"  Go  to  the  Big  Crow's  lodge,"  said  he,  '•  and  get  your 
rifle.     I'll  bet  the  gi'ay  Wyandot  jxuiy  against  jour  mare 


that 


we 


start  an  elk  or  a  bhick-hiiled  deei',  or 


likely 


as 


not,  a  big-hoi-n  before  we  are  two  miles  out  of  camp.  I'll 
take  my  squaw's  old  yellow  horse;  you  can't  whip  her 
more  than  four  miles  an  hour,  but  she  is  as  g(Jod  for  the 
mountains  as  a  mule." 


;   t 


"Wn'^ 


I  ■    ! 


<6-  ■ 


'V 


li." 


:i 


I , 


i>  I 


252 


Tin;    OKF.CJON    TRAIL. 


I  mounted  the  lilack  inulo  wliicli  llaynKHid  usuallv 
rode.  Slie  was  a  ))()\verrul  animal,  gciillf  and  managc- 
ahle  enough  by  nature;  but  of  late  lier  temper  had 
been  soured  Ity  misfortune.  About  a  weelc  ijel'oi'c,  1  had 
chanced  to  otlend  some  one  of  tiic  Indians,  who  out  of 
revenge  went  secretly  into  tlie  meadow  anil  gave  lu'r  a 
severe  stab  in  the  haunch  with  liis  knife.  Tiie  wound, 
tliough  ])artially  heali'd,  still  galled  her  extremely,  and 
made  her  even  more  perverse  and  obstinate  than  the  rest 
of  her  species. 

The  morning  was  a  glorious  one,  and  I  was  in  better 
health  than  1  had  been  al  any  time  for  the  last  two 
months.  We  left  the  little  valley  and  ascended  a  rocky 
hollow  in  the  mountain.  Very  soon  we  were  out  of  sight 
of  the  camp,  and  of  every  living  thing,  man,  beast,  bird, 
or  insect.  1  had  never  before,  except  on  foot,  })assed 
over  such  execrable  ground,  and  I  desire  never  to  repeat 
the  experiment.  The  Idack  nude  grew  indignant,  and 
even  the  redoubtable  yellow  horse  stumbled  every  mo- 
ment, and  kejjt  groaning  to  himself  as  he  cut  his  feet 
and  legs  among  the  sharj)  rocks. 

It  was  a  scene  of  silence  and  desolation.  Little  was 
visible  except  beetling  crags  and  the  bare  shingly  sides 
of  the  mountains,  relieved  by  scarcely  a  trace  of  vegeta- 
tion. At  length,  however,  we  came  upon  a  forest  tract, 
and  had  no  sooner  d(uie  so  than  we  heartily  wished  our- 
selves back  among  the  rocks  again  ;  for  we  were  on  a 
steep  descent,  among  trees  so  thick  that  we  could  see 
scarcely  a  rod  in  any  direction. 

If  one  is  anxious  to  place  himself  in  a  situation  where 
the  hazardous  and  the  ludicrous  are  cond)ined  in  about 
ecpial  proportions,  let  him  get  upon  a  vicious  mule,  with 
a  snafllc  bit,  and  try  to  drive  her  through  the  woods 
down  a  slope  of  forty-live  degrees.     Let  him  have  a  long 


/    !      "11 


A    IIOUNTVIN    :iuNT. 


253 


rifle,  a  Ixickskin  frock  with  loim'  IVi4i!''»'s,  and  a  head  of 


h)iiL''  1 


laiiv 


Th 


hut 


K'so  laitcr  aiipciKMij^i'S  will  ho  can 


II  h 


iiiht 


every 


nionuMit  and  twitched  awav  in  small  portions  hv  the 
twi«»:s,  wliich  will  also  whij*  him  smartly  iici'oss  the  face, 
while  tlu;  laiue  hranchos  above  thnm|)  him  on  the  head. 
His  mnlc,  if  she  1)C  a  trne  one,  will  alternately  stop  short 
and  dive  violently  forward,  and  his  positions  \\\nm  her 
hack  will  he  somewhat  diversili('(l.  At  onc^  time  he  will 
clasp  her  aflijctionately,  to  iivoi('  the  blow  of  a  houji,ii 
overhead  ;  al  another,  he  will  throw  himself  hack  aud 
lling'  his  kne(!  forward  against  lier  neck,  to  keep  it  from 
heing  crushed  between  the  rongh  bark  of  a  tree  and  the 
ribs  of  tlie  animal.  Reynal  was  cursing  incessantly  (iur- 
ing  the  whole  way  down.  Neither  of  us  had  tlie  re- 
motest idea  whore  wo  were  going;  and  though  1  have 
seen  rough  riding,  I  shall  always  retain  an  evil  recollec- 
tion of  thiit  five  minutes'  scramble. 

At  last  we  left  our  troubles  behind  us,  emerging  into 
the  channel  of  a  brook  that  circded  along  the  i\)ot  of  the 
descent ;  and  here,  turning  joyfully  to  the  left,  we  rode  at 
ease  over  the  white  pel<bl(\s  and  the  rippling  water,  shaded 
from  the  glaring  sun  by  an  overarching  green  trans- 
parency. Those  halcyon  moments  were  of  short  dura- 
tioji.  The  friendly  brook,  turning  sharply  to  one  side, 
went  brawling  and  foaming  down  the  njcky  hill  into  an 
abyss,  which,  as  far  as  we  could  see,  luul  no  bottom  ;  so 
once  more  we  betook  ourselves  to  the  detested  woods. 
Wlieii  next  we  came  out  from  their  shadow  and  sun- 
light, we  found  oUrselves  standing  in  the  broad  glare  of 
day,  on  a  high  jutting  point  of  the  mountain.  Defore  us 
stretched  a  long,  wide,  desert  valley,  winding  away  far 
amid  the  mountains.  Reynal  gazed  intently;  he  began 
to  s})eak  at  last :  — 

"  Many  a  time,  when  I  was  with  the  Indians,  1  have 


..1,  I 


ffl:- 

Ji  ?3 

% 

M 

f  I 

S  i 

1      ♦ 

n 

254 


Tin;  ouixjoN   riiAiL. 


Ikm'm  liimliiiiT  for  jroM  all  tlironirli  tlir  I'hick  I  fills.  'I'Ikto'h 
iiU'iilv  of  it  licrc  :  vmi  iiinv  lie  ccrtiiiii  of  lliat.  I  liavo 
(lr(':iiiic(|  ahdiit  it  lifly  (iiut's,  iiiitl  I  never  dreamed  yet  Imt 
wiiat  it  came  out  true.  Look  over  yonder  at  those  liliielc 
rocks  pilcMl  up  au'ainst  that  other  liiu'  rock.  I)i>u't  it  look 
as  11'  there  uiiuht  lie  somethiuu'  there?  It  wou't  do  I'm-  a 
Mhite  man  to  he  ruuimauiuu'  too  nuieh  aliout  these  moun- 
tains ;  the  Indians  say  they  aro  lull  of  had  spirits  ;  and  I 
hfdievc  niyseir  that  it's  no  uood  luck  to  he  huntiiej,"  ahout 
lioro  after  jrold.  Well,  for  all  that,  I  woidd  like  to  have 
one  of  those  fellows  up  her(>,  from  down  lielow,  to  ji'o 
ahout  with  his  witch-hazel  rod,  and  I'll  etiarantee  that  it 
would  not  he  lonu'  hefore  he  woidd  lii:ht  on  a  <i(>ld-minc. 
Never  mind  :  we'll  let  the  u'old  alone  iorto-(|ay.  Look  at 
those  trees  down  helow  us  in  the  hollow;  we'll  p)  down 
there,  and  1  reckon  we'll  Li'et  a  hlack-tailed  deer." 

l>ut  Reynal's  |>redictions  wei'e  not  veri(ie(l.  We  jjassed 
mountain  after  mountain,  and  vallev  after  vallev;  we  ex- 
jilored  dee|)  ravines;  yet  still,  to  my  eom|ianion's  vexa- 
tion and  evident  surj)rise,  no  j^ame  could  he  found.  iSo, 
in  the  ahsence  of  hetter,  we  resolved  to  u'o  out  on  the 
l)lains  and  look  for  an  antelope.  With  this  view  we  hci^an 
to  pass  down  a  narrow  valley,  the  hottom  of  which  was 
covered  with  the  stiff  wild-saii'e  hushes,  and  marked  with 
deep  paths,  made  hy  the  hnffalo,  who,  for  some  inexjili- 
cahle  reason,  arc  accustomed  to  jtenetrate,  in  their  long 
grave  jtroccssions,  deep  among  the  gorges  of  these  sterile 
mountains. 

lleviial's  eve  ranged  incessantly  amono;  the  rocks  and 
along  the  edges  of  the  jtrecipices,  in  hopes  of  discovering 
the  mountain-sheep  peering  down  npon  us  from  that  giddy 
elevation.  Nothing  was  visihle  for  some  time.  At  length 
we  hoth  detected  something  in  motion  near  the  foot  of  one 
of  the  mountains,  and  a  moment  afterward  a  black-tailed 


A    MolNTAIN     Hl'NT. 


2')  5 


door  shxMl  ti'!i/iim'  III  lis  fnnu  the  lop  ol'  a  I'dfk.iiiid  llicii, 
slowly  liiiiiinu' ii\viiv',(lis!i|i|»o:ii'('(l  hcliiml  il.  In  an  iiislant 
Hcyiial  wiiH  out  ot'  his  siiddli',  and  riinniiii:'  Inwards  llio 
s|Mit.  1,  Ix'intr  tin)  woalv  t(»  Inllnw,  sat  lioldinir  liis  horse 
and  wnilinti' tlio  result.  1  lost  siulil  (d"  liini :  llicn  heard 
Uie  report  ol'  his  rille  deadened  anionu"  the  roeUs,  and 
llnally  saw  him  reapjiear,  with  a  snrly  look,  Ihal  plainly 
l»eli'ayed  his  ill  .success.  A'jaiu  we  luoxcd  j'oi'waril  down 
Ihc  lout;  valley,  when  soon  after  we  cau>e  lull  U|)ou  what 
seenu'd  a  wide  and  very  shallow  ditch,  iiiciusted  at  the 
lioltoui  u  itli  white  clav,  dried  and  cracked  in  the  sun. 
L'nder  this  fair  outside  IteNual's  eye  detecleil  the  siuiis 
of  lui'kint;  mischief.  He  calh'd  to  me  lo  slop,  and  then 
aliuiilinu'.  piid^ed  up  a  slone  and  threw  il  into  the  ditch. 
To  my  ama/emeni  it  fell  with  a  dull  splash,  iireakiny;  at 
once  Ihrouiili  the  thin  crust,  and  spatteriuij,'  round  the  hole 
u  V(dlowish  crenmv  lluid.  into  \vhicl»  it  sank  and  disai)- 
jtcared.  A  slitdc,  live  or  six  feet  ion*;,  lay  on  tlu;  g'round, 
and  with  this  we  sounded  Die  insidious  ahvss  close  to  its 
('(Itio.  Jt  was  just  possihli!  to  touch  the  holtom.  Places 
like  this  are  numerous  among'  tlic  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  buffalo,  in  his  blind  and  heedless  walk,  often  jdnuges 
into  them  unawares.  Down  lie  sinks  ;  one  snoit  of  terror, 
one  convulsive  strugtrle,  and  the  slime  cahnly  flows  above 
Ills  shag'.iry  liead,  the  languid  undulations  of  its  sleek  and 
})lacid  surface  ahjue  betraying  how  the  })Owerful  monster 
writhes  'm  his  death-throes  below. 

We  fon  hI  after  some  trouble  a  ))oint  where  wo  could 
pass  the  abvss,  and  now  the  valley  begiin  to  open  u]>on 
plains  whicii  spread  to  the  horizon  before  us.  On  one 
of  their  distant  swells  we  discerned  three  or  four  black 
specks,  whicli  Reynal  pronounced  to  be  buffalo. 

"  Come,"  said  he,  "  we  must  get  one  of  them.  My 
scpiaw  wants  more  sinews  to  finish  her  lodge  with,  and  I 
want  some  glue  myself." 


;'■  'I 


256 


THE  orl;gon  trail. 


He  iniincdlatoly  put  llic  yellow  horse  to  such  a  gallop 
as  he  was  capal)le  of  cxcciitiiit>;,  while  I  set  spurs  to  the 
mule,  who  soon  I'ar  outran  hor  jtleheiaii  rival.  When  wc 
luul  <2:allo[)ei.l  a  mile  or  more,  a  large  rabbit,  by  ill-luck, 
sprang  up  just  under  the  feet  of  the  mule,  who  bounded 
violently  aside  in  full  career.  Weakened  as  I  was,  I  was 
flung  lbrcil)ly  to  the  ground,  and  my  rifle,  falling  close  to 
my  head,  went  off  with  the  shock.  Its  sharp,  sjjiteful 
report  rang  i'or  some  moments  in  my  ear.  Jjcing  slightly 
stunned,  1  lay  for  an  instant  motionless,  and  Ileynal,  sup- 
posing me  to  be  shot,  rode  up  and  Ix'gan  to  curse  the  nude. 
Hoon  recovering  myself,  1  arose,  i)icked  up  the  rille  and 
anxiously  examined  it.  It  was  badly  injured.  'J'lie  stock 
was  cracked,  and  the  main  screw  broken,  so  that  the  lock 
had  to  be  tied  in  its  ])lacc  with  a  string  ;  yet  happily  it 
was  not  rendered  totally  unserviceable.  I  wiped  it  out, 
reloaded  it,  and  handing  it  to  Rcynal,  who  meanwhile  had 
caught  the  mule  and  led  her  up  to  me,  I  mounted  again. 
No  sooner  liad  I  done  so,  than  the  lu'ute  began  to  rear 
and  plunge  with  extreme  violence  ;  but  being  now  well 
prepared  for  her,  and  free  from  incumbrance,  I  soon  re- 
duced her  to  submissi(jn.  Then  taking  the  rifle  again 
from  Reynal,  we  galloped  forward  as  before. 

Wc  were  now  free  of  the  mountains  and  riding  far  out 
on  the  broad  prairie.  The  buffalo  were  still  some  two 
miles  in  advance  of  us.  When  we  came  near  them,  wo 
stopped  where  a  gentle  swell  of  the  jaain  concealed  us, 
and  while  I  held  his  horse  lleynal  ran  forward  with  his 
rille,  till  1  lost  sight  of  him  beyond  the  rising  ground. 
A  few  minutes  elapsed:  I  heard  the  report  of  his  piece, 
and  saw  the  Ijufialo  running  away,  at  full  speed  on  the 
right ;  immediately  after,  the  iumter  himseh",  unsuccessful 
as  l)efore,  came  up  and  mounted  his  horse  in  excessive 
ill-humor.     He  cursed  the  Jjlack  IJills  and  the   buffalo, 


A    MOUNTAIN    HUNT. 


257 


sworo  iliat  he  was  a  good  liuntcr,  wliii'li  IikIlmmI  was  true, 
and  that  lu-  had  never  been  out  before  among' those  iikjuu- 
taiiis  without  killing  two  or  tliree  deer  ut  least. 

We  now  turned  towards  the  distant  eneanipnient.  As 
we  rode  along,  antelo})e  in  eonsiderabh.'  numbers  were 
living  liglitly  in  all  directions  over  the  plain,  but  not  one 
lit"  thciu  would  stand  and  be  shot  at.  \Vhen  we  reached 
the  foot  of  the  mouidain-ridge  that  lay  iietween  us  and 
the  village,  we  wei'c  too  impatient  to  take  the  smooth  and 
circuitous  route  ;  s(j  turninij;  short  to  the  left,  we  drove 


nab 


our  wearied  animals  upward  among  tiic  rocks,     ^till  more 


del 


mteiopc  were  ii^iping 


aix 


»ut  amonsj,'  these  llintv  hill-sid 


(>S. 


Each  of  us  shot  at  owv,  though   from   a  gi'cat  distance, 
and  each   missed  his  mark.     At  leiiLith   wc  reached  the 


qimniit  of  the    last  rid 


ue. 


Ijookinu"  down   we  saw   tlie 


bustling  i'am{)  in  the  valley  at  our  feet,  and  inglorioiisly 
descended  to  it.  As  we  rode  among  the  loilges,  the 
Indians  lookeil  in  vain  for  the  fresh  meat  that  should 
have  hung  lichind  oui'  saddles,  and  the  stpiaws  uttei'cd 
various  suppressed  ejaculations,  to  the  great  indignation 
of  Rcynal.  Our  mortification  was  increased  when  we 
rode  up  to  his  lodge.  Here  we  saw  his  young  Imliaii 
relative,  the  llail-Storm,  his  light  graceful  llgiire  recliu- 
iiiu'  on   the   ti'round  in  an  easv  attitmle,  while 


w 


;h  I 


lis 


fiiend  The  Rabbit,  who  sat  by  his  side,  he  was  making  an 
aliundant  im'al  from  a  wooden  bowl  ol'  /nisjiri,  wliieh  the 
s(|uav.  had  placcil  l)etweeii  them.  Xeai'  him  lay  the  fresh 
skill  of  a  female  elk,  which  he  had  iiist  killed  among  llu; 
iiioiintains,  only  a  mile  or  two  from  the  camp.  Xo  doubt 
the  boy's  heart  was  elated  with   triumj)h.  but  he  betrayed 


110     S12'U    o 


f   it.      U 
■1 


e  even  seemeii 


total! 


Ulieoiiseloii,- 


oi 


our  approacli,  and   nis   iiaiiilsouK 


I   h 


ace 


bad   all    the    tran- 


(piillity  of  Indian   self-control  ;  a  s(df-control  which   pre- 
vents the  exhibition  of  emotion  without  restraining  the 

17 


258 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


emotion    itself.     It   was    about   two  moiitlis  since  I  had 
known  the  llail-Stonn,  and  witliin  tliat  time  liis  cliarae- 
tcr  had  leniarkahly  developed.     When  1   first  saw  liini, 
he  was  just  cniergint^  from  the  haVtits  and  feelings  of  the 
boy   into   tli(>  amltition  of  the  hunter  and   wari'ior.     Jle 
had  lately  killed  his  first  deer,  and  this  had  exeilcd  his 
aspirations  for  distinction.     Since  that  time  he  had  liccn 
contiinially  in  searcli  of  game,  and  no  young  hunter  in 
the  village  had  bciMi  so  active  or  so  fortunate  as  he.     All 
this  success  had  produced  a  marked  change  in  his  char- 
acter.    As    1  first  remembered  him  he  always  shunned 
the  society  of  the  young  squaws,  and  was  extr(>mely  bash- 
ful and  shee]ush  in  their  presence  ;  but  now,  in  the  con- 
lidencc  of  liis  new  reputation,  he  ])egan   to  assume  the 
airs  and  arts  of  a  man  of  gallantry.     lie  wore  his  red 
blanket    dashingly   over   his   left    shoulder,   painted    his 
cheeks  cvcrv  day  with  vermilion,  and  hunir  iiendants  of 
shells   in  his  ears.     If  I  observed  aright,  he   met  with 
very  good  success  in  his  new  pursuits;    still   the    Hail- 
storm had  much  to  accom]>lish  ])eforc  he  attained  the  full 
standing  of  a  warrior.      (Jallantly  as  he  ]»egan  to  bear 
himself  among  the  women  and  girls,  he  was  still  timid 
and  abashed  in  the  ])resence  of  the  chiefs  and  old  men; 
for  he  had  never  yet  killed  a  man,  or  stricken  the  dead 
body  of  an  enemy  in  ])attle.     I  have  no  doubt  that  the 
handsome,  smooth-faced  boy  burned  with  desire  to  flesh 
his   maiden    scalping-knife,   and    I   would   not    have   en- 
camped alone  with  him  Avithout  watching  his  movements 
with  a  susj)icious  eye. 

His  elder  ])rother,  The  Horse,  was  of  a  different  char- 
acter, lie  was  nothing  but  a  lazy  dandy.  He  knew 
yerv  well  how  to  hunt,  but  preferred  to  live  bv  the  hunt- 
ing  of  others.  He  had  no  appetite  for  distinction,  and 
the  Hail-Storm  already  surpassed  him  in  re])utalion.     lie 


A    MOUNTAIN    HUNT. 


•2)9 


had  a  dark  and  iitrly  face,  and  ])assod  a  LH'oat  jiart  of  liis 
tinu'   in  adoniinu'    it  with   vcrinilion,  and  cont('in)>hitinf»; 


it  hy  means 
iii\('n  him. 


oi 


a  lit 


lOl 


kv\   1 


(xiKinti'-uMass  wliic 


I   had 


As  (or  the  rest  of  the  (hiv.  lie  divide(l   it  h 


twTMMi  eatinu",  sk'e])in,u'.  and  sittinu'  in  tlic  snn  on  the  ont- 


sKie  oi 


a   io(iii'( 


!-•( 


II. 


1 


ei'e    lie   won 


M 


I'emam  tor   hour  alter 


honr,  ai'raye(l    in    all    liis    tinei'y,    with  an   old   (h'ai^i'ooirs 
ord    in  his  liand,  evideiitlv  flattcriiiir  liimsell"  that  he 


sw 


w 


as  the  eentre  of  atti'aetion  to  the  eves  of  the 


surroniK 


1- 


inii'  s(inaws. 


Yet  he  sat  lookintr  straight  forwai'd  with  a 


i'aee  of  the  ntmost  Lrravity,  as  if  Avrapped  in  pi'oluiind 
meditation,  and  it  was  only  hy  the  occasional  sid.doni^ 
ulances  whieli  he  shot  at  his  sn|tj»osed  admirers  that  one 
conld  detect  the  trne  conrso  oi"  his  thonuhts. 

JJoth  he  and  his  hrother  may  rej)resent  classes  in  the 
Indian  comnmnity:  neitlier  should  the  Ilail-Storm's  friend, 
The  Ralihit,  he  passed  hy  withont  notice.  The  Ilail-Storm 
and  he  were  inseparable :  they  ate,  slept,  and  limited 
too'cther,  and  shared  witli  one  another  alnlo^t  all  that 
(hey  ])ossesscd.  If  there  he  any  thing  that  desei\es  to  lie 
called  romantic  in  the  Indian  character,  it  is  to  lie  sonuht 
for  in  friendships  such  as  this,  which  are  common  among 


manv  o 


f  tl 


le  iirairie 


trihcf 


Slowly,  honr  after  honr,  that  weary  aftei'iio(»n  drauued 
awav.  1  lav  in  llevnal's  lodu'e,  overcome  hv  the  listless 
toi'por  that  jiervaded  the  encampment.  The  day's  work 
was    (Inished.  or   if  it  v.'cm'c    not,   the    iniiahitaiils  had   re- 


solved  not   to   (iiiish    it   at  a 
within  the  shelter  of  the  lodu'cs. 


and   were   doziie. 


(piietly 
th 


v  proioiiini  ictiiaruy, 
the  very  spirit  of  indolence,  seemed  to  have  sunk  upon 
the  village.  Now  an<l  then  I  could  hear  the  low  laiiLiliter 
of  some  iriH  irom  within  a  neiuhhoriim"  lodu'c.  or  the  small 
shi'ill  voices  of  ii  few  restless  children,  who  almie  were 
moving  ill  the   deserted  area.      The  spirit  of  the  placo 


2G() 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


iiifc'ctcMl  iiic  :  I  could  not  tliiiik  consccntivoly  ;  I  was  lit 
only  lor  musing  and  reverie,  when  at  last,  like  the  rest,  i 
fell  asleep. 

Wlieu  e\enin*r  came,  and  the  (ires  were  lighted  round 
the  lodges,  a  select  family  circhi  eonveiu.'d  in  the  nelglin 
horhood  111"  ReynaTs  domicile.  It  was  composed  entirely 
(>r  his  s(|ua\v"s  relatives,  a  mean  and  ignoble  elan,  among 
whom  none  \n\\  the  iIail-St(jrm  ludd  I'orth  any  promise  of 
I'utui'e  distinction.  J']\-en  his  prospects  weri;  reiidei'ed  not 
a  little  di!l)io>is  hy  the  chai'acter  ol"  the  I'amily,  less  how- 
ever IVoi.i  any  j)riiiciple  of  aristocratic?  distinction  than 
from  the  want  of  poweiTid  supporters  to  assist  him  in  his 
undertakings,  and  helo  to  avenge  his  (piarrels.  Iiaymoiul 
and  ]  sat  down  along  with  them.  Tliei'i;  were  eight  or 
ten  inen  gathered  around  the  lire,  together  with  about  as 
manv  women,  old  and  young,  some  of  whom  were  tole.r- 
ably  good-looking.  As  the  pipe  ])assed  I'ound  among  the 
men,  a  lively  conversation  went  forward,  more  merry  than 
delicate,  and  at  length  iwo  or  three  of  the  cldci*  women 
(for  the  girls  wei'O  somewhat  diffidcuit  and  bashful)  began 


to  assail  Kavmoiu 


I  witl 


1  vai'ious  pungent  witticisms,    ^oine 


of  the  men  took  part,  and  an  old  s(juaw  concluded  by 
bestowing  on  him  a  ludicrijus  and  indecent  ni(daiame.  at 
which  a  general  laugh  followed  at  his  expense.  Raymond 
grinned  and  giggled,  and  made  several  futih)  attempts  at 
I'epartee.  Knowing  the  impolicy  and  e\'en  danger  of  siif- 
fei-ing  myself  to  l)e  placed  in  a  ludicrous  light  among  the 
Indians.  1  maiutained  a  I'igid  indexible  e(junteiiance,  and 
wholly  escaped  iiieir  sallies. 

in  the  morning  I  found,  to  my  great  disgust,  that  the 
camp  was  to  retain  its  position  for  anothei'  day.  1  dr(Nidcd 
its  languor  and  monotony,  and,  to  escape  it,  set  out  to  e\- 
j/lor*'  the  surrou  '(ling  mountains.  I  was  accompanied  by 
a  fail  II, il  iVii'tid,  my  rille,  the  only  friend  indeed  on  whose 


A     MOrNTAIN     HUNT. 


2()1 


,vas  lit 
rest,  I 

round 

ntircly 
among 
nisc  of 
r('(l  not 
>s  liow- 
n   tliau 
I  in  his 
lynioiul 
iiiht    or 
)ont   as 
(>   tolc.r- 
)ng  I  ho 
•ry  Ihan 
women 
began 
Some 
(mI  hy 
nu'.  at 
ymoiid 
lilts  at 
of  sui- 
ng the 
e,  and 

lat  the 
•(Mulrd 
it  to  t'X- 

nled  l)y 
n  whose 


]>ron'i]»t  a'^sistancc  in  time  of  troulde  T  coidd  wliolly  rely 


Most   of  llie  Indians   in    the  villaii'o,  it    is   t 


rue 


|irol('sse( 


good-will  towards  the  whites.  Imt  the  cxiioricncc  ot'otlicrs 
ami  mv  own  oliscrvation  hnd  tauuht  nu'  the  extreme  folly 
of  conridence,  and  the  utter  impossihility  of  foreseeing  to 
what  sudden  acts  the  strange  unhridled  im|)ulses  of  an 
Indiiin  may  urge  him.  When  among  this  people  danger 
is  never  so  neai'  as  when  you  are  nnprepai'eil  for  it,  never 
so  I'emote  a,s  when  von  ui'e  armed  and  on  the  alert  to  meet 


it  at  anv  momeii 


t.      Xotl 


WW'S  offers  so  stronu'  a  temi'tation 


to  their  ferocious  instir.cts  as  the  appearance  of  timidity, 
weakness,  or  security. 

Many  deep  and   gloomy  gorges,  choked  with    ti'ees  and 


l)ushes.  openeil  from  the  sides  of  the  hills,  which  wei'e 
shaggy  witii  forests  where\-er  the  rocks  jiermitted  v(>geta- 
ti'  n  to  spring.  A  great  num!)er  of  Indians  were  stalking 
along  the  edges  of  the  woods,  and  hoys  were  whooping 
and  laughing  on  the  mountains,  pi'actising  eye  and  hand, 
and  indulging  their  destructive  propensities  liy  killing 
hirds  and  small  animals  with  their  little  hows  and  arrows. 
There  was  one  glen,  strctehing  up  hetween  steep  (difis  far 
into  the  hosom  of  the  mountain.  I  iiegan  toascci  '1  along 
its  hottoni,  ]»ushing  my  way  onward  iimong  t  rocks, 
ees,  and  hushes  that  ohstructed   it.      A  slem!        thread 


ti 


water  trickled  throuu'h  it.  which  since  issnin 


Iron 


1  the 


heart  of  its  nati\'e  rock  could  scarcely  have  he       warmed 
or  uladdened  hv  a  I'av  of  sunshine.     After  a^l    iiicinir  for 


some 


me 


J 


c(tnceive(|   invs( 


to  he  cut  ire 


one 


)Ut 


coming  to  a  part  of  the  glen  in  a   u'reat   mcasine   iVee  of 
trees  and  undert:rowtli.  J  saw  at  some  distance   the   Mack 


(lers  oi   an   Indian  auKMi-j  i!ie   l)ushes 


di 


head  and  red   shoul 

ahove.     ^riie  reader  need  not  ]»repare  himsidf  for  a  start- 


liiiii' 


idventure.  loi-  I  liave  none  to  relate.     'V\ 


H-  '  ead   and 
shoulders  belonged  to  Mene-^^eela,  my  best  friend  in  the 


!HP 


262 


TIIL    OREGON    TUAIL. 


vilhiu'C.     As  1   luul  iipproiichcd  noiselessly  with   my  moo 
casiiied  IV'et,  tin'  old  inaii  was  (juite  uneoiiscious  of  my 
presence  ;  and  turning  to  a  jtoint  where  1  could  gain  an 
unobstructed  view   ol'  him,  1   saw  him  seated  alone,  im- 
movalilr  as    a  statue,   among  the  rocks  and  trees.      His 
lace  was  turned  upward,  and  his  eyt's  seemed  riveted  on 
a  i)ine-ti"eo  springing  from  a  clell  in  the;  preci[)ice  aboNc. 
Tile  crest  of  tin;  pine  was  swaying  to  and  tVo  in  the  wind, 
and  its  long  limbs  waved  slowly  up  and  down,  as  if  the 
tree  had  lil'e.      Looking  lor  a  while  at  the  old  man,  1  was 
satislied  that  he  was  engaged   in  an  act  ol'    worsliip,  oi- 
j)ray<'r,  oi'  communion  of  some  kind  with  a  su[)eri'atural 
being.     1  longed  to  pLMietrate  his  thoughts,  but  1  eoidd  do 
notliing  lui/ni  than  conjecture   and  sjieculate.      1    knew 
that  ihougli  the  int(dlect  ol'  an  Indian  can  embrace  the 
idea  ol"  an  all-wise,  all-})owerl'ul  Spirit,  the  supreme  Ruler 
of  the  univei'se,  vet  liis  mind  uill  not  alwavs  ascend  into 
comnnmion  with  a  being  that  seems  t(j  him  so  vast,  re- 
mote, ani'  incomprehensible;  and  wlicn  danger  threatens, 
wher.  his  hoj)es  are  broktui,  and  trouble  overshadows  him, 
ho  is  prone  to  turn  I'oi-  reliel'  to  some  inferior  agency,  less 
removed  from  tiie  ordinary  scope  of  liis  faculties.     l\{i 
lias  a  guardian  spirit,  on  whom  lie   relies  for  succoi-  and 
guidance.     To  him  all  nature  is  instinct  ^vith   mystic  in- 
lluencc.     Among  those  mountains  not  a  wild  beast  was 
prowling,  a  bird  singing,  or  a  leaf  fluttering,  that   miglit 
not  tend  to  direct  his  destiny,  or  give  warning  of  what 
was  in  store  for  him  ;  and  he  watches  the  world  of  nature 
around    liim   as   the   astrologer   watches  the   stars.       So 
closely  is  he  linked  with    it,  that  his  guardian  s})irlt,  no 
unsubstantial  creation  of  the  fancy,  is  usually  embodied 
in  the  form  of  some  living  thing:  a  bear,  a  wolf,  an  eagle, 
or  a  serpent  ;  and  Mene-Sccla,  as  lie  gazed  intently  on  the 
old  pine-tree,  might  believe  it  to  iiishrine  the  fancied  guide 
and  protector  of  his  life. 


A    MOUNTAIN     HUNT. 


2G3 


Wliatovcr  was  passing  in  tlio  mind  of  the  old  man,  it 
was  no  ]iart  of  jiood  sense  to  disturb  him.  Silently  retrac- 
ing my  footsteps,  I  descended  the  glrn  nntil  1  came  to  a 
point  where  I  could  climb  the  precipices  that  shut  it  in, 
and  gain  the  side  of  the  mountain.  Looking  u[),  1  saw  a 
tall  peak  rising  among  the  woods.  Something  impelled 
mc  io  climb;  1  had  not  felt  for  many  a  day  such  strength 
and  elasticity  of  limb.  An  hour  and  a  half  of  slow  and 
often  intermitted  lal)or  brcjught  mc;  to  the  very  sunnnit  ; 
ami  emerging  from  the  dark  shadows  of  the  rocks  and 
]iines,  I  stcj'peil  Ibrth  into  the  light,  and  walking  along 
the  sunny  versic  of  a  precipice,  seated  myself  on  its 
extreme  [»oint.  Looking  Itetwecn  the  mountain-pi-aks  to 
the  westwanl,  the  pale  blue  ]jrairie  was  stretching  to  the 
farthest  horizon,  like  a  serene  and  tranipiil  ocean.  The 
surrounding  mountains  were  in  them  iv's  suiliciently 
striking  and  impressive,  but  this  contrast  gave  redoubled, 
effect  to  their  stem  features. 


CriAPTER  XIX. 


PASSAGE   OF   THE   MOUNTAINS. 


till 


'\T  7'iri']X  r  took  leave  of  Shaw  n(  La  noiilc's  cam]),  I 
'  ])roiiiise(l  1o  meet  liiin  at  Fort  fjaraiuic?  on  Wu) 
first  of  August.  The  Indians,  too,  intended  to  pass  the 
monntains  and  move  towards  the  I'ort.  To  do  so  at;  this 
point  was  impossihU',  liecause  thei'c  was  no  ]»assa,i2;e  ;  and 
in  order  t(j  liiid  one  we  were  ohliu'ed  to  go  twelvi;  or  ionr- 
tcen  mih's  southward.  I^ate  in  the  afternoon  tiu;  eamp 
got  in  motion.  I  rod(^  in  company  with  three  or  four 
young'  Indians  at  tlie  rear,  and  tlie  moving  swarm  stretched 
bcfoi'c  jnc.  in  the  ruddy  Hglit  of  sunset,  or  the(h'ep  sliadow 
of  the  mountains,  far  heyond  my  sight.  It  was  an  ill- 
omc  ii'd  spot  tliey  cliose  to  eiu^amp  upon.  Wlien  they 
were  tliere  just  a  year  Ixd'ore,  a  war-party  of  ten  men,  led 
by  The  Whirlwind's  son,  had  gone  out  against  the  enemy, 
and  not  one  had  ever  returned.  This  was  the  immediate 
cause  of  this  seasoifs  warlike  })reparations.  J  was  not  a 
little  astonished,  when  1  came  t(j  the  camp,  at  the  con- 
fusion of  horrible  sounds  with  which  it  was  filled;  howls, 
shrieks,  and  wailings  rose  from  all  the  women  present, 
many  of  whom,  not  content  with  this  exhibition  of  grief 
for  the  loss  of  theii-  friends  and  r(datives,  were  gashing 
their  legs  deeply  with  knives.  A  warrior  iu  the  village, 
who  had  lost  ii  brother  in  the  exj)editioii,  chose  another 
nio(l«>  of  displaying  his  sorrow.  The  Indians,  who  though 
often  rapacious,  are  devoid  of  avai'icc,  will  sometimes, 


rASSAOr,    OF    THE     MOUNTAINS. 


'2( 


)■) 


wluMi  ill  iiioui'iiiiiu'.  or  dii  oilier  soliMuii  occasions.  i:'i\('  awav 
tlic  wludc  (if  their  possessions,  iuul  reduce  themselves  to 
iiakechiess  aiul  want.  Tlie  warrior  in  (|ii('s!ii)n  It'd  liis 
two  hest  horses  into  tiie  niiildle  of  the  viliau'e.  and  uave 
thcni  away  to  his  I'riends  ;  upon  which,  soicjs  ami  accla- 
inations  in  praise  ol' his  generosity  mingled  with  tin;  cries 
of  the  Wdiiicn. 

On  the  next  inorning  we  eiilered  again  anioicj'  the 
mountains.  There  was  nothing  in  their  appcaraiifc  ciiher 
grand  or  picliires(pie.  thoicjli  they  were  (ksi date  to  the  last 
degree,  heing  mere  piles  of  lilack  and  Itroken  rocks,  with- 
out trees  or  vegetation  ol"  any  kind.  As  we  jiassed  among 
them  along  a  wide  \alley.  1  noticed  Raymond  riding  hy 
tlio  side  of  a  young  S(jiiaw,  to  whom  he  was  addressing 
various  compliments.  All  the  old  s(iiiaws  in  the  neiiihlior- 
liood  watched  his  })roceedings  in  great  admiration,  and 
the  girl  herself  would  turn  aside  her  head  and  laugh.  Just 
then  his  mule  thought  proper  to  display  hei'  vicious  pranks, 
and  began  to  rear  and  plunge'  most  furiously.  Raymond 
was  ail  excellent  rider,  and  at  first  he  stuck  fast  in  his 
scat;  l)nt  the  moment  after,  1  saw  the  mule's  hind-legs 
flourishing  in  the  air,  and  my  unlucky  follower  |iit(diing 
head  foremost  oN'cr  hei-  ears,  'i'hei'e  was  a  Imrst  ol' 
screams  and  laughter  from  all  the  women,  in  whiidi  his 
mistress  herself  took  i)art,  and  RaynKJini  was  assailed  hy 
such  a  shower  of  witticisms,  that  he  was  "lad  t(;  ride  for- 


war( 


I  out 


oi  licariiii:". 


Not  long  after,  as  I  rode  near  him.  1  lu'ard  him  shoiil- 
iiig  to  me.  lie  was  pointing  towards  a  detacheil  I'ocky 
hill  that  stood  in  the  ndddle  of  the  \alley  lici'or*'  us,  and 
from  hehind  it  a  long  lile  of  elk  cani(>  out  at  full  s|iee(l 
and  entered  an  opening  in  the  mountain.  They  liad 
scarcely  disappeared,  when  whoops  and  exclainalions 
came    from    fiftv   voices    around    me.      'i'he    voung    men 


yv^ 


2()() 


THE    ()IU:(i()N    TIIAIL 


l('a|tc'(l  (Voin  (licir  horses,  liiiiit;"  down  Uicii'  In-iivy  iiiilViilo- 
rolics,  iiiid  ran  at  I'lill  spccil  (owiirds  lliu  fool  ol'llir  near- 
est nionnlain.  I'cvnal  also  hroke  uwav  al  a  ualloo  in  the 
same  direction.  "  ('onie  on  !  come  on  I"'  he  called  (o  ns. 
''Do  yon  see  Ihal  hand  of  hiu-horn  n|»  yonder 'i'  If  there's 
one  of  llieni.  there's  a  hnndred  I  " 

In  I'acl.  near  the  sninmit  •>!'  the  nionnlain,  I  (.'onld  see 
ii  lai'u'e  junnhei'  of  small  white  olijects,  mdvin;,;,-  I'apidly  np- 
Avai'ds  amonii'  tii(!  itreci|iices,  whih;  others  were  lilinLi  iilon«>' 
its  rocky  profile.  Anxious  to  seethe  sjiort,  I  galloped  for- 
ward, and  entei'inti'  a  jiassa.ti'c  in  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
nseended  amoni;;  the  hjosu  rocks  as  lar  as  luy  horse  could 
carry  me.  ileic  1  fastenc.'d  lier  to  an  old  itine-tree.  At 
thiit  moment  Ivaymond  culled  to  me  from  the  riiiht  that 
another  hand  of  sheep  was  close  at  liand  in  that  diret^tion. 
I  run  up  to  the  top  of  the  ((oeninLi",  which  u'ave  me  a  full 
view  into  the  rocky  <i'oij2,c  heyond  ;  ami  hei'e  1  plainly  saw 
some  fifty  or  sixty  sheep,  almost  within  rille-shot,  clut- 
terinti'  npwurds  amonu;"  the  rocks,  and  endeavoriuLi',  alter 
their  usual  custom,  to  reach  the  hiuhesi  point.  The  nuked 
Indians  hounded  up  liiihtly  in  ))ursuit.  In  u  moment  the 
game  and  luintcrs  disajjpeared.  Nothint;'  could  ho  seen 
or  lieard  hut  the  occasioiuil  rej)ort  of  a  eni^  more  and 
more  distant,  reverheratinj;'  amonu'  the  rocks. 

1  turne(l  to  descend,  and  as  1  did  so,  couhi  sec  tlic  valley 
helow  alive  with  Indians  jiassiuLi'  rajtidly  t]n'ou,u;li  it,  on 
liorschack  and  on  foot.  A  little  further  on,  all  were  stop- 
])ing  us  they  cume  up:  the  camp  was  ])rei)arin,u'  und  the 
lod^U'es  risinji".  1  descended  to  this  sj)ot,  und  soon  alter 
Reynal  and  liaymond  returned.  They  Itore  hetween  them 
a  sheep  whicdi  they  had  pelteil  to  death  with  stones  from 
the  edu'c  of  a  ravine,  alon<2,'  the  hottom  of  wliich  it  was 
attemittinL-'  to  escape.  One  hy  one  the  hunters  came  drop- 
ping in;  yet  sucli  is  the  activity  of  the  Rocky  nionnlain 


PASSAGE    or    Tin;    MOUNTAINS. 


'J67 


.s1m'*'|i,  dial  altlujii^li  sixly  or  seventy  iiicii  were  out  in 
)>iii'suit,  not  nii)i-o  tliiin  liutt'  :i  (l(j/i>n  nnini.ils  were  kille(l. 
Of  these  only  one  was  a  I'lill-^^'rown  male.  He  liiul  a  pair 
of  liorns,  the  diniensions  of  which  were  almost  heyond 
helief.  I  lia\c  seen  amoni;'  the  Indians  ladles  with  haii;' 
liundles,  eii|»al>li^  ol'  conlaining  nioi'e  than  a  tjuai't,  cut,  out 
fi'om  surh  horns. 

Tiu'ou^h  the  whole  of  the  next  morninu'  we  were  mov- 
ing' lorwui'd  amonu'  the  hills,  (hi  the  followiiej  day  the 
lieiuhts  elo>ed  uiouiid  us,  and  the  passaue  of  the  mountains 
heuan  in  earnest.  l>efore  tlu;  vilhe^e  left  its  "eamping- 
grotmd.  1  srt  forward  in  compuMy  with  the  Maule-Feather, 
a  man  of  jiowci'tul  frame,  l)Ut  with  a  had  and  sinister  face. 
His  son,  a  li^ht-limhed  hoy,  i-(/de  with  us,  and  anotiier 
Indian,  ikiukmI  'I'he  Panther,  was  also  of  the  jtai'ty.  Leav- 
inu'  the   \illa"je  <jut  of  siiiht  hehind  us,  we   I'ode  toi:ethur 


ut>  a    rock 


y 


deliU 


Af 


ler   a   while,  howcM'r,  tlu' 


Kauh 


Feather  disco\-ered  in  the  distance  some  appearance  of 
game,  and  sot  off  with  his  son  in  pursuit  of  it,  while  I 
went  forward  with  The  I'anther.  This  was  a  mere  n<nn 
de  i/iwrrf  ;  for,  like  many  Indians,  he  concealed  his  real 
name  out  of  sonn!  supei'stitious  n(Miou.      He  was  a  nohlc- 


ooKiuu'  lelhnv 


As  ho  suffered  his  oruiimenleil  ladlido- 
]'(j1)o  to  fall  in  folds  about  his  loins,  his  stately  and 
graceful  figure  was  fully  displayed  ;  and  wliile  ]n\  sat  his 
horse  in  an  easy  attitude,  the  k 


ng  leathers  of  the  prairie- 


cock  Iluttering  iVom  the  ci'own  of  hi>  head,  ho  seeme(l  tlu^ 
very  model  of  a  wild  j)rairi(!-ridor.     Ho  had  not  the  sanio 


feat 


uri's  wi 


th   those   of  other   Indians.     Tidess   his    fa 


CO 


greatly  holied  liim,  he  was  {'hh'  fi-om  the  jealousy,  suspicion, 
and  malignant  cunning  of  his  people.  For  the  most  part, 
a  civilized  white  man  can  discover  veiw  t\'W  points  of  sym- 
pathy hotween  his  own  nature  and  that  of  an  Indian. 
With  every  disposition  to  do  justice  to  their  good  qual- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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208 


THE    OREGON     TRAIL. 


IM 


'In 


I:  'If 


if 


■\ 


! 


ities,  lie  must  lie  conscious  tliat  an  inipassaldo  ^'ulf  lies 
between  liim  and  liis  red  brethren.  Nay.  so  alien  to  liini- 
seir  do  they  apijcar,  that,  after  breathing!;  the  air  of  the 
jirairie  for  a  lew  months  or  weel<s.  lie  b(\tiins  to  loolc  n])on 
them  as  a  troublesome  and  (hmuerous  species  of  wild  i)east. 
Yet,  in  tlic  countenance  of  The  Panther,  1  gladly  read 
that  tliere  were  at  least  some  points  of  sympathy  between 
liim  and  me.  We  were  excellent  friends,  and  as  we  I'ode 
forward  toiicther  thronuh  rocky  passati'es,  deep  dells,  and 
little  barren  plains,  he  occu|>ied  himself  very  zealously  in 
teachin<i"  me  the  Dahcotah  lan<:ua*re.  After  a  while,  we 
came  to  a  grassy  recess,  where  some  gooseberry-buslies 
were  growing  at  the  fo<jt  of  a  rock  :  and  these  ollered  such 
tem])tation  to  my  companion,  that  he  gave  over  his  in- 
structions, and  stopped  so  long  to  gather  the  fruit,  that 
before  we  were  in  motion  again  the  van  of  the  village 
came  in  view.  An  old  woman  apjjcared,  leading  down 
her  }>ack-horse  among  the  rocks  above.  Savage  after 
savage  followed,  and  the  little  dell  was  soon  crowded 
with  the  throng. 

That  morning's  march  was  one  not  to  be  forgotten. 
It  led  us  through  a  sublime  waste,  a  wilderness  of  moun- 
tains and  pine-forests,  over  which  the  spirit  of  loneliness 
and  silence  seemed  brooding.  Above  and  below,  little 
could  l)e  seen  but  the  same  dark  green  foliage.  It  over- 
spread the  valleys,  and  envelojjed  the  mountains,  from 
the  black  rocks  that  crowned  their  summits  to  the 
streams  that  circled  round  their  base.  1  rodt;  to  the  toj* 
of  a  hill  whence  1  could  look  down  on  the  savage  proces- 
sion as  it  passed  beneath  my  feet,  and.  far  on  the  left, 
could  see  its  thin  and  Ijroken  line,  visible  only  at  inter- 
nals, stretching  away  for  miles  among  the  mountains. 
On  the  farthest  ridge,  horsemen  were  still  descending  like 
mere  sj)ecks  in  the  distance. 


i 
1 

hi 

1 

.1 

1 

t 

t 

i 

PASSAGE    OF    THE    MOUNTAINS. 


269 


I  rcnininod  on  tlic  liill   uiilil  all  had  jtassed,  and  tliou 
dcscondinu'  t'dllDWcd    alter  them.       A  little  t'artlier  on  1 


found  a  \ci'V  small  nieadnw,  set  deeply  anionu'  steep 
mountains  ;  and  here  the  whuh.'  villaue  had  eneamjied. 
The  little  spot  was  crowded  with  the  eonrusetl  and  dis- 
orderly host.      Some  ol"  the  loducs  were  already  set  up,  or 


tl 


le  s(|uaws  perhaps  were  l)usy   in  di'awinn"  tlit;  heavy  ei 


)V- 


en n Lis  o 


r  ski 


n  over 


the  1 


)ar(! 


loies. 


( )thers  were  as  vet 


mere  skeletons,  whiU;  othei's  still.  j»oles,  eoverinu'.  and  all, 
lav  seatteied  in  disorder  on  the  uround  umoii!'-  hulliilo- 
rolics,  hales  of  meat,  domestic  utensils,  liarness,  und 
\veaj)ons.  H([uaws  were  sereamini:;  to  ojie  another,  horses 
rearinu;  and  plunii'intr,  dons  yelping',  tniger  to  he  disl)ur- 
deneil  of  their  loads,  while  the  llutterinjj;"  of  feathers  and 
the  ,<ileani  of  sava.u'e  ornaments  added  liveliness  to  the 
scene.  The  small  children  ran  ahout  amid  the  crowd,  while 
many  of  th.e  hoys  were  seramljlinu"  among'  the  overhang- 
ing rocks,  and  standing  with  their  little  hows  in  their 
hands,  looking  down  upon  the  restless  throng.  Ju  con- 
trast with  the  general  confusion,  a  ciri'le  of  old  men  and 
"warriors  sat  in  the  midst,  smoking  in  profound  indifierenco 
and  traiKpiillity.  The  disorder  at  length  suhsided.  The 
horses  were  driven  awav  to  feed  along  the  adjacent  val- 
ley.  and  the  camp  assumed  an  air  of  listless  repose.  It 
was  scarcelv  i)ast  noon  :   a   vast    white  canopy  of  smoke 


from  a  hurning  forest  to  the  eastward  ovcrhimg  the  place, 
and  iiartiallv  oltscnred  the  lavs  of  tlu;  sun  ;  vet  the  heat 
was  almost  insupportaltle.  The  lodges  stood  crowded 
together  without  order  in  the  narrow  space.  Each  was  a 
hot-house,  within  whi<'h  the  la/,\'  ]iroprietor  lay.  slee[iing. 
The  camp  was  silent  as  death.  Nothing  stirred  except 
now  and  then  an  old  woman  passing  fri^m  lodge  to  lodge. 
The  girls  and  young  men  sat  together  in  gi'oupy.  under 
the  [»ine-trces  u[)on  the  surrounding  heights.     The  dogs 


.1  ■ 


i 


!  m 


I 


^^'i 


'.  I 


h 

270 


THE    OIIECJON    TRAIL. 


lay  j)!iiitiiiir  on  Hk*  unnmd,  too  laiiLniid  cvon  to  ^n'owl  at 
ilic  wliitc  man.  At  the  entrance  of  the  nicadow,  tlifre 
was  a  Cold  sprinu'  anions;  the  i"o(d\s.  ('oin])l('t('ly  oncp- 
sliadowed  liv  tall  ti'ccs  uiid  dense  undertirowtli.  lii  this 
cool  and  shady  retreat  a  mnniier  ol'uii'ls  were  asseniMed, 
sitting'  tou'etlu'r  on  I'oeks  and  fallen  lous.  diseiissinu'  the 
latest  |Lrossi|i  of  tlie  vilhiLic,  oi"  lautiiiinii"  and  throwing; 
water  with  their  hands  at  the  hitrndinu'  Meneaska.  The 
niinntes  se<'niei|  leiiu'theiied  into  lionrs.  1  lav  lor  a  lon<r 
time  under  a  treestndying  the  O^illallah  tonune,  with  tiu; 
aid  of  my  friend  The  Panther.  When  we  were  holh  tired 
of  this,  1  lay  down  liy  the  side  of  a  deep,  clear  pool, 
ft)rmed  l»y  the  water  of  the  sprints  A  shoal  of  little 
fishes  of  ahont  a  ])in"s  length  were  jilayinii'  in  it,  spoi-tinj^ 
tou'cther,  as  it  seemed,  very  amicaldy  :  hut  on  cdoser  ol>- 
scrvation,  1  saw  that  tliey  were  eufxaii'ed  in  cannihal  war- 
fare amouir  themselves.  Now  and  then  one  of  the  smallest 
would  fall  a  victim,  and  immediately  disaj>i)ear  down  the 
maw  of  his  concpieror.  Every  moment,  hcnvevei".  the 
tyrant  of  the  pool,  a  go<i'ule-eyed  monster  al)out  three 
inches  lonir,  would  slowlv  emer<i'e  with  (luiveriuLi'  fins  and 
tail  from  under  the  shelvintr  hank.  The  small  fry  at  this 
would  suspend  their  hostilities,  and  scatter  in  a  jianic  at 
the  appearance  of  overwhelming  force. 

"Soft-hearted  philanthrojiists,"  thought  I,  "  may  sigh 
long  for  their  peaceful  millennium  ;  for,  fVom  minnows 
to  men,  life  is  incessant  war." 

Evening  api)roached  at  last ;  the  crests  of  the  moun- 
tains were  still  hright  in  sunshine,  while  our  deep  glen 
was  comj)letely  shadowed.  1  left  the  camj),  and  climl)ed 
a  neighhoring  hill.  The  sun  was  still  glaring  through  the 
still  pines  on  the  ridge  of  the  western  mountain.  In  a 
moment  he  was  gone,  and,  as  the  landscape  darkened,  I 
turned  again  towards  the  village.     As  1  descended,  the 


PASSAGE    OF    THE    MOUNTAINS. 


•271 


howliiiir  f>r  wolves  mikI  the  biiikiiii;  of  foxos  ('anic  up 
(lilt  (tl"  the  dim  \V(m>(1s  IVoni  far  .iiid  near.  Tlio  oainp  was 
^lowiiiu"  with  a  luultitiidc  of  liri'S,  and  alive  witli  dusky 
naked  liuures,  wliose  tall  shadows  llitteil,  weird  and  uhost- 
like,  among  the  surrounding^  crau's. 

1  found  a  (;ircle  of  smokers  seated  in  their  usual  jilaec  ; 
that  is,  on  the  ti'round  hefore  the  lodnc  of  a  certain  war- 
rior, who  seemed  to  he  u'enerally  known  for  Ids  social 
qualities.  I  sjjt  down  to  smoke  a  jiartinti"  j»i|ie  with  my 
sa\atie  friends.  That  day  was  the  first  of  Aiiuust,  on 
which  I  had  {jronused  to  meet  Shaw  at  Fort  Laramie. 
The  fort  was  less  than  two  days'  journey  distant,  and 
that  my  friend  need  not  sutler  anxiety  on  my  account,  I 
resolved  to  push  forward  as  ra})idly  as  possilih;  to  the  jilaee 
of  meeting.  1  went  to  look  after  the  Hail-Storm,  and 
liaving  found  him,  I  offered  liim  a  handful  of  hawks'- 
liells  and  a  i)aper  of  vermilion,  on  condition  that  he 
would  uuidc  nie  in  the  morning  through  the  mountains. 

The  Ilail-Storm  ejaculated  "  ILno  !  "  and  accepted  the 
grft.  Notldng  more  was  said  on  eitlier  side;  the  matter 
was  settled,  and  I  lay  down  to  sleep  in  Kongra-Tonga's 
lodge. 

Long  hefore  davliu'ht,  Raymond  shook  me  l)y  the 
shoulder. 

"  Every  thing  is  ready,"  he  said. 

I  went  out.  The  morning  was  chill,  damp,  and  da.k  ; 
and  the  whole  camj)  seemed  asleep.  The  Ilail-Storm  sat 
on  horsohack  hefore  the  lodge,  and  my  mare  Pauline  and 
the  nuile  which  Raymond  rode  were  picketed  near  it. 
Wo  saddle<l  and  made  our  other  arrangements  for  the 
journey,  hut  hefore  these  were  com})leted  the  camp  hegan 
to  stir,  and  the  lodu:e-coverini»:s  fluttered  and  rustletl  as 
the  squaws  jjulled  them  down  in  jirepanatioii  for  (h^part- 
ure.     Just   as   the   light   l)egan  to   appear,  we   left   the 


ill' 


Pi' 


J'  •■ 

J'i 

[IS 

lis 
m 


f  .■  <  >. 


THE    OIIECJON    TRAIL. 


jUTouiid,  |i!issiii<r  up  thr()u«2,li  a  uurrow  oponiuj;  amonu;  flio 
rocks  wliicli  led  caslwanl  out  of  the  meadow.  (Jaiiiini^ 
tlie  top  of  this  iJMssati'c,  I  turii('(l  and  sal  lookiiiu'  hack 
upon  llic  camp,  dimly  visililc  in  llu;  ^ray  liglil  of  morn- 
ing'. All  was  alive  with  the  hustle  ol"  preparation.  I 
tiii'ned  away,  luilt'  uiiwilliii<^'  to  take  a  final  leav(>  of  my 
savajre  associates.  We  jjassed  amonsjj  I'ocks  and  pine- 
trees  so  dark,  that  for  a  wiiile  we  could  scarcely  see  oni- 
way.  Th(!  country  in  I'roiit  was  wild  and  l)rokeii,  hall" 
hill,  hair  i»lain,  partly  open  and  j)artly  covered  with  woods 
of  pine  and  oak.  Jiarriers  of  lofty  mountains  cncom- 
])asscd  it  ;  the  woods  were  fresh  and  cool  in  the  early 
morninji',  the  peaks  of  the  mountains  were  wreathe(l  with 
mist,  and  sluu'uish  vai)ors  were  (Mitangled  amon<j:  the 
forests  u[)on  their  sides.  At  leuuth  the  l)lack  ])innacle  of 
the  tallest  mountain  was  ti])ped  with  u'old  by  the  rising 
sun.  The  Hail-Storm,  who  rode  in  front,  gave  a  low  ex- 
clamation. Some  lari!;e  animal  leaped  uj)  Irom  amouL;' 
the  hushes,  and  an  elk,  as  I  thought.  Ids  liorns  thrown 
back  o\('r  his  neck,  darted  past  us  across  the  ojien  space, 
and  bounilt'd  like  a  mad  thiiiii;  awav  amonii'  the  adioinini2: 
})ines.  Raymond  was  soon  out  of  his  saddle,  hut  hcfoic 
he  could  fire,  the  animal  was  full  two  hundred  yards 
distant.  The  ball  struck  its  mark,  though  much  too  low 
for  mortal  effect.  The  elk,  however,  wheeled  in  his  flight, 
and  i;ni  at  full  speed  among  the  trees,  nearly  at  right 
angles  to  his  former  course.  I  fii'ed  and  broke  his  shoul- 
der ;  still  he  moved  on,  limping  down  into  a  neighboring 
Avoody  hollow,  whither  the  young  Indian  followed  and 
killed  him.  AVhen  we  nN'iclicd  the  spot,  we  discovered 
him  to  be  no  elk,  liut  a  l)lack-tailed  deer,  an  animal  nearly 
twice  as  large  as  the  common  deer,  and  (putc  unknown  in 
the  east.  'IMie  reports  of  the  rifles  had  reached  the  ears 
of  the  Indians,  and   several  of  them  came  to  the  s})ot. 


,^5 


PASSACiK    OF    Tin;     MOUNTAINS. 


'2V] 


c  risiu!' 


LcaviiiLi'  the  hide  of  (lie  tlccr  to  the  Ilail-Stdnn,  we  Iiiiiiu'  as 
luiu'li  of  the  meat  as  we  waiitc*!  licliiiid  our  saddles.  Icl't 
the  rest  to  the  Indians,  and  I'csunicd  our  joniaicy.  .Nh'an- 
whilc  the  viUaii'e  was  on  its  way,  and  liad  .li'oiie  so  far 
tluit  to  p't  in  advanee  of  il  was  iui|iossil)le.  We  dii'ecletl 
our  course  so  as  to  sti'ike  its  line  (»f  niai'cli  at  the  nearest 
jioint.  In  a  short  time,  through  the  (hirk  trunks  of  the 
jdnes,  we  eould  see  the  liu'ures  of  the  huhans  as  they 
|)assed.  Onee  more  we  were  amonu"  them.  They  wei'e 
luovinji,'  with  eNcn  more  than  their  usual  preciiiitation, 
crowdt.'d  tojicthei"  in  a  narrow  pass  lielween  rocks  and  oM 
pine-trees.  We  were  on  the  eastern  descent  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  soon  eanic  to  a  ronuh  and  dillicult  delile,  h'ud- 
mg  down  a  very  steejt  declivity.  The  whole  swai'ui 
poured  down  togidlier,  tilling  tlie  rocky  passau'e-way  like 
some  turbulent  mountain-stream.  The  mountains  heloi'e 
us  were  on  fire,  and  had  been  so  for  weeks.  The  view  in 
front  was  oliscured  bv  a  vast  dim  sea  of  smoke,  Avhile 
on  either  hand  rose  the  tall  elitTs,  bearing  aloit  their 
ci'ests  of  ])ines,  and  the  sharp  pinnacles  and  broken 
ridges  of  the  mountains  beyond  were  faintly  tracealile  as 
through  a  veil.  The  scene  in  itself  was  grand  and  im- 
posing, but  with  the  savage  multitude,  the  ai'med  war- 
riors, the  naked  children,  the  gayly  appai'clleil  girls, 
pouring  impetuously  down  the  heights,  it  would  have 
formed  a  nol)le  sul>jeet  for  a  painter,  and  only  the  pen 
of  a  ^^cott  coidd  have  done  it  Justice  in  descri})tion. 

We  }>assed  over  a  l)urnt  tract  where  the  ground  was 
hot  Ijcneath  the  horses'  feet,  and  between  the  bla/ing  sides 
of  two  mountains.  Before  long  we  had  descended  to  a 
softer  region,  where  we  found  a  succession  ol"  little  valleys 
watered  by  a  stream,  along  the  l)orders  of  which  grew 
al)undancc  of  wild  gooseberries  and  currants,  and  the 
children  and  many  of  the  men  straggled  from  the  line  of 

18 


ill 


.41,] 


!    H 


'  Jtwr 


fliflli 


111  ''r 

|i;  ! 


274 


TIIF    OREGON    TIIAIL. 


lunn.'li  to  ^•atliof  flicni  as  wo  passed  nloii^.  nrscciidinfr 
still  liirtlici',  the  view  cliiiiitiod  rajtidly.  'I'lic  Itiiriiiiiu' 
niouiituins  were  licliiiid  us,  and  tlir(Hii!li  llif  opm  \;dlc\s 
in  IVont-  we  cnnld  sec  tlu*  pniii'ic,  strctcliiii;^'  like  iiii  (iccmi 
Ix'yond  the  siulit.  Al'ler  jiassiu*^  tlirou^li  ii  liiir  oj'  trees 
that  skii'tecl  tiic  hntok,  the  Indians  tiled  out  upon  the 
])]ains.  1  was  thirsty  and  knelt  down  iiv  the  little  sticain 
to  drink.  As  I  mounted  again,  1  very  eiirelessly  left  my 
rille  amonu"  the  <irass,  ami  niv  thou«ihts  heinii'  otherwise 
absorhed,  I  rode  lor  sonu;  distance  before  diseovei'inu'  its 
absence.  I  lost  no  time  in  tiu'nin<^  about  and  iiiillo|)inu' 
back  in  st-areh  of  it.  Passinj^  the  line  of  Indians,  1 
watched  every  warrior  as  lie  rode  by  me  at  a  caider.  and 
at  lenutli  discoveicd  my  ritle  in  the  liands  of  one  of  them. 
Avlio,  on  my  ajiproaching  to  claim  it,  inunediatcly  gave  it 
up.  Having  no  other  nunins  of  acknowledging  the  obli- 
gation, T  took  oil"  one  of  my  spurs  and  gave  it  to  him. 
Ifc  was  greatly  delighted,  looking  upon  it  as  a  dis- 
tinguished mark  of  favor,  and  innnediately  held  out  his 
loot  for  me  to  buckle  it  on.  As  soon  as  1  had  done  so,  he 
struck  it  with  all  his  foi'cc  into  the  side  of  his  horse, 
whicli  gave  a  violent  leap.  The  Indian  laughed  and 
..purred  harder  than  before.  At  this  the  horse  shot  away 
like  an  arrow,  amid  the  screams  and  laughter  of  the 
S(juaws,  and  the  ejaculations  of  the  men,  who  exclaimed: 
"  Washtay  I — Good  I  "  at  the  potent  effect  of  my  gift. 
The  Indian  had  no  saddle,  and  nothing  in  place  of  a 
bridle  except  a  leather  string  tied  round  the  horse's  jaw. 
The  animal  was  of  course  wholly  micontrollidle.  and 
stretched  away  at  full  speed  over  the  ]»rairie,  till  he  ond 
Ills  rider  vanished  behind  a  distant  swell.  1  ne\er  saw 
the  man  again,  but  1  i)re»sunie  no  harm  came  to  him.  An 
Indian  on  horsel)ack  lias  more  lives  than  a  cat. 

The  village  encamped  on  the  scorching  j)raine,  close 


TASSACiK    OF    THi:     MOUNTAINS. 


275 


to  llic  fiHtf  (if  tlic  iiiitiiiitaiiis.  Tlic  liciit  \v;i>  iii<>st  intense 
iiiul  itciietl'lltilitl'.  Tlie  eincriliLi's  (if  tlie  IimIl;!  iil!S  were 
I'iiiscd  ji  loot  III'  more  IVnin  the  ui'kiiikI.  in  i>iil<'r  \n  pro- 
curc  some  eireiiliitiiin  of  iiif  :  iuid  IJeynsil  tliduuilit  |if<»|ier 
to  liiy  aside  Ids  triipper's  dress  of  Imekskin  ;ind  assume 
the  very  scanty  costinne  (»f  an  Indiiin.  Thus  elegantly 
attired,  lie  stix'tcheil  himself  in  liis  JDiInc  dn  a  iMitfaio- 
I'olie,  alt^Tuatfdy  cursinjj!;  the  heat  and  |inflinu"  at  the  jiipe 
which  he  and    I    passed   lietweeii   us.     'I'here  w.is   present 


also  a  select    circle    of  Indian  tViends  and    ichitiv 


es. 


A 


small  lioilod  pnppy  was  served  up  as  a,  jtai'tini:'  feast,  to 
which  was  added,  hy  way  of  dessert,  a  wooden  iiowl  of 
goosol terries  IVoni  the  mountains. 

"  fjook  there,"  said  Reynal,  jiointinu  out  of  tlie  openin<^ 
of  his  lodue  ;  'Mlo  vou  see  that  line  of  liuttcs  aliout  lifteen 
miles  off?  Well,  now  do  vou  see  that  farthest  one.  with 
the  white  speck  on  the  face  of  it?  J)o  vou  think  vou 
ever  saw  li  before  ? '' 

"It  looks  to  me,"  said  I,  "like  the  hill  that  we  were 
'camped  under  when  we  were  on  Laramie  Creek,  six  or 
eight 


weeks  a<ro. 


a 


You've  hit  it,"  answered  Ileynal. 


u 


"  Oo    and  hring   in  the    animals,  Raymond,"   said   I; 
we'll  camp  there  to-night,  and  start  for  the  fort   in  the 


?> 


morning 

The  mare  and  the  nnde  W(>re  soon  hefore  the  lodge. 
AVe  saddled  them,  and  in  the  mean  time  a  nundier  of 
Indians  collected  about  ns.  'J'he  virtues  of  Pauline,  iny 
strong,  fleet,  and  hardv  little  mare,  were  well   known   in 

s   were   moulded    uj)on 


cami). 


and   several   of   tlie  visitor 


goo 


d  horses  which  tliev  had  l»rou<iht  me  as  luvse 


nt; 


I 


m 


promptly  declined    their    offers,  since    aecejiting    the 
would  have  involved  the  necessity  of  transferring  Pauline 
into  their  harharous  hands.     We  took  leave  of  Revnal, 


I 


i  ,■  ;■ 


■"   T-T 


'2H\ 


TIIK    OREGON    'lUAlI,. 


;  s 


l)iit  iiui  of  ilic  Imlijiiis,  wlio  aiT  iiccusloiiKMl  to  (lis|i('nse 
^sitll  siiili  >ii|i('rllii()iis  t'crciiKHiics.  licaviiiu'  tin'  ('iim[), 
\\{'  rode  straight  over  tliu  prairie  towards  the  wliilL'-l'acrd 
hliiir,  wliosc  pale  ridj^t'S  swelled  gently  aji'aiiist  the  lioii/oii, 
like  a  (loud.  An  Indian  went  with  ns,  whose  name  I 
I'oriiel.  Ihonuli  tlu!  n^liness  of  his  lace  and  the  ghastly 
width  of  his  month  dwell  vividly  in  my  reeollretion.  'I'lio 
antelope  were  nnmei'ons,  hnt  we  did  n<»l  heed  them. 
We  rode  direetly  towards  onr  destination,  over  the  arid 
plains  and  liarren  hills  ;  until,  late  in  the  afternoon,  halt' 
spent  with  heat,  thirst,  and  latiuiie,  we  saw  a  uladdeninu' 
si;;ht  :  the  lon>i'  liiu'  of  trees  ami  the  deep  gull'  that  mark 
the  Clause  of  Laraniie  Ci'cek.  Tassing  tln'ougli  the 
growth  of  huiic  dilapidated  old  cotton-wood  tiees  that 
hordered  tin;  ereek,  we  rode  across  to  the  other  side. 
The  rapid  and  foaming  waters  wei'e  lilled  witli  lish  play- 
ing an<l  s])lashing  in  the  shallows.  As  we  gained  the 
farther  hank,  our  horses  turned  eagerly  to  drink,  and  we, 
kiH'eling  on  the  sand,  followed  their  example.  We  had 
not  gone  far  hefore  the  scene  liegan  to  grow  familiar. 

"  We  ai'e  u'etting  nej»r  home,  Ilavmond,''  said  1. 

There  stood  the  hig  tree  under  which  we  liad  encampeij 
so  long;  thei'e  were  the  white  cliffs  that  used  to  look 
down  upon  our  tent  when  it  stood  at  the  hend  of  the 
creek:  there  was  the  meadow  in  which  our  horses  had 
gra/.ed  foi'  weeks,  and  a  little  farther  on,  the  prairie-dug 
village  where  1  had  hcgniled  many  a  languid  honr  in 
shootinu'  the  unfortunate  inhabitants. 

'^  We  .-re  going  to  catch  it  now,"  said  Raymond,  turn- 
ing his  liroad  face  up  towards  the  sky. 

Jn  truth  the  cliffs  and  the  meadow,  the  stream  and  the 
groves,  weie  darkening  fast.  Black  masses  of  cloud  were 
swelling  up  in  the  south,  and  the  thunder  was  growling 
ominously. 


^t' 


I'ASSAGi:    OF    THE    MOUNTAINS. 


'277 


'•  Wo  will  'ciiiup  tlii'i'c,"  1  s;ii(l,  iioiiitiiiu'  to  ii  ilt'uso 
u'njvc  of  trees  lower  tjowii  the  slre;uii.  Uiivinniid  iiiid  I 
tiii'iied  towiUMJs  it,  Imt  tlie  lii(li:iii  stopiied  iiiid  cidleil 
eiiiiie>tly  iil'ter  us.  When  we  deiuiiiideil  whiit  w;is  the 
iiiiittei'.  Ill'  siiid.  thid  the  jjhosts  ol'  two  wiiiiiors  wero 
always  ainoiiu'  those  trees,  aim  that  ii'  we  slept  there,  they 
ould  sereiiiu  and   throw  stones  at    ms  all  ni'ilit.  and  per- 


w 


h 


laps   steal   oiir   liorses  lielore   nioriiiiii:'. 


Think 


iiiLi'    It    as 


well  to  hiiiiior  him.  we  lel't  hehiiid  us  the  haunt  of  theso 
extraordinary  uhosts,  and  j)assed  on  towards  ('Imuwater, 
ridiiiu'  at  full  .uallop,  for  the  hii:'  drops  lieLiaii  to  piitter 
down.  Soon  w<'  came  in  siu'ht  ol"  the  puplar  sapliiiu's 
that  ^'rew  alioiit  the  mouth  of  the  little  >tie;iiu.  We 
leaped  to  the  uroiind,  threw  off  oui'  saddles,  turne(l  oiii- 
liorscs  loose,  and  di'awiiiii'  our  knives  lieuiiu  to  .slash 
amonji'  tlic  Imshes  to  cut  twiu's  and  hranches  foi-  inakinj^ 
a  shelter  aiiainst  the  rain.  IkMidinir  down  the  taller 
saplinu's  as  they  ^rew,  we  piled  the  youni:'  shoots  upon 
them,  and  thus  made  a  eunvenient  jieiit-honse  ;  hut  our 


lal 


)or    was    needless 


The    storm    seareelv    touched    \u 


Haifa  mile  on  our  riu'lit  the  rain  was  j)onriiiLr  down  like 
a  eatai'act,  ami  the  thunder  roared  ovei'  the  ]»rairie  like  a 
liattery  of  cannon;  while  we  hy  ,u'ood  fortune  !'ecei\(Ml  only 
a  few  heavy  drops  from  th(»  skirt  of  the  ]tassini:'  cloud. 
The  weather  (deareil  and  the  sun  st^t  gloriously.  Sitting' 
close  under  our  leafy  canopy,  we  proceeded  to  discuss  a 
suhstuntial  meal  (•!'  /r<is)it(  which  Weali-N\'aslitay  had  L'i\en 
mo.  'JMie  Indian  had  hrouu'ht  with  him  his  pipe  and  a 
lia;^'  of  s/i'>Hi/>«is/tii  ;  so  heforo  lyin,u"  ilowii  to  sleep,  we 
sat  for  some  time  smokinu"  toii'cther.  First,  however, 
our  wide-mouthed  friend  had  taken  the  pivcautioii  of 
carefully  examiuiiii;  the  ueiuhhorhood.  lie  re))orted  that 
eiuiit  men,  countinu-  them  on  his  fimivrs.  had  heen  on- 

"...  ^  '_■  t 

camped  there  not  long  l)eforc,  —  Bisonette,  Paul  Dorion, 


t 

: 

i 

1  '■ 

1' 

1 

•i7S 


11  IK  ()iti;(i()N  TUAir<. 


Aiiti)iii<>  lit'  nitii'^c.  Wicliiinlsdii,  and  lour  otiicrs,  wliosc 
iiiiiiirs  lit'  citultl  not  tell.  All  lliis  provcil  stiii:tly  coiTfct. 
I>v  wliat  iiisliiict  lu'  liiiil  lurivctl  ut  siicli  iii-oiiiiilo  coii- 
cliisioiis,  1  iiiii  iitlci'ly  ill  ii  loss  to  disiiic. 

It  WHS  still  tiiiit*'  dark  wlirii  1  awoke  and  calKnl  liay- 
inoud.  The  Indian  was  already  ^'oiiL',  liavinji,"  flioscn  to  ^o 
on  heforc  ns  to  tlu'  tort.  Settin;:;  ont  after  liiin,  \\e  rode 
I'oi"  sonic  time  in  i',oin|tlete  darknt.'ss,  and  when  tlie  .snn  at 
lenu'tli  rose,  ulowinj^  like  a  liei-y  hall  of  eopper,  we  wert; 
within  ten  ndh'sof  the  fort.  At  leiiuth,  fioni  the  snnimit 
of  a  sandy  Idnl'l'  we  eonld  see  Fort,  Laramie,  miles  heforu 
us,  standinu'  liv  tlu'  side  of  tlu;  stream  like  a  little  u'rav 
speck,  in  tlic  midst  of  the  honntlless  desolation.  1  stopjied 
my  horse,  and  sat  foi*  a  momeid,  looking'  down  upon  it. 
It  seemed  to  me  the  very  centre  of  eonUort  and  eivili/a- 
tion.  NVe  were  nut  long-  in  approaching  it,  for  we  roile  at 
speed  the  u'reater  part  of  tlie  way.  Laramie  Creek  still 
intervened  hetween  us  and  the  friendly  walls.  Entering 
the  water  at  the  poiid  where  we  liad  stiiiek  upon  the  hank, 
wc  I'aiscd  our  feci  to  the  satldle  hehind  us,  and  thus  kneel- 
ing as  it  were  on  horsehaek,  passed  dry-shod  through  the 
swift  current.  As  we  rode  up  the  hank,  a  uumherof  men 
appearc(l  in  the  gateway.  Three  of  them  came  forward 
to  meet  us.  In  a  moment  1  distinguished  Shaw;  Jlenry 
Chatillon  followed,  with  his  face  of  manly  simplicity  and 
frankness,  and  Deslauriers  came  last,  with  a  broad  gi'iu 
of  widcome.  The  meeting  was  not  on  either  side  one  of 
mere  ceremony.  For  my  own  i)art,  the  change  was  a 
most  agi'eeahle  one,  I'rom  the  sociedy  of  savages  and  nu'ii 
little  better  than  savages,  to  that  of  my  gallant  and  high- 
mindeil  companion,  and  our  uohle-hearted  guide.  .My 
apjiearauce  was  c(pially  wcdcome  to  Shaw,  who  was  he- 
ginning  to  entertain   some  very  uncomfortable   surmises 


concerumg  me. 


■  rl. 


rAss.\(ii;   or  Tin:   mountains. 


•27!) 


Iloiilcaiix  ^rt'ck'd  iiic  roiMliuUy,  ainl  slioiijod  to  tlio 
cuuk.  'I'liis  riiiK'lioimry  was  a  in'\v  a((|iiisiti(iii.  liuNiiij; 
lalrlv  conic  iVoiii  Foi'l  I'iciTc  with  llic  liadiiiu'  uapuis. 
Wliatf'vcr  skill  lie  niiulit  liavc  UoiistiMJ,  lie  hail  imt  tho 
most  |iroinisiii^'  iiiatciials  to  exercise  it  iiiioii.  lli'  set 
lielui'e  UK'.  houf\er,  ii  lii'eaklast  of  liisciiit,  collce,  ami 
siilt  |M»ik.  It  scemeil  like  a  new  pliase  of  existence,  to 
lie  seated  nure  luoie  on  a  hencll,  with  a  knil'e  iind  t'ol'k,  II 
jilate  iind   te;i(  ii|i.  and   something'  rcscnihlinu  a  taltle  he- 


I'dic  nil 


The  coIUm'  seemed  delicions,  and  the  hrcao  was 


a  nio>t  welcome  nn\elty.  since  lor  thiee  weeks  I  hiid  tasted 
siMi'cely  any  tiling'  hnt  meat,  and  that  lor  1  he  most  part 
withoni  salt.  The  m»'al  also  had  the  I'elish  of  <i'ood  'join- 
jiany.  lor  o|i|)osite  to  nie  sat  Shaw  in  elevant  dishahille. 
Jl'one  is  anxious  thoron<:hly  to  a|t|ireciate  the  valne  of  ii 
conjicnial  eom|ianion,  he  has  only  to  spend  a  lew  weeks 
hy  himself  in  an  O^illallah  villa«i'e.  And  if  he  can  con- 
ti'i\('  to  adil  to  his  seclusion,  a  deltilitating  and  somewhat 
critical  illness,  his  jiereoptions  upon  tiiis  suhjeet  will  bo 
rcndcreil  con>iderahly  more  vivid. 

Siiaw  had  heen  two  or  three  weeks  at  the  fort,  i  found 
him  estalilisheil  in  his  old  (puirters,  a  lai'ue  apartment 
usually  occnpieil  hy  the  altsent  li'uoymi.-^.  In  one  corner 
was  a  sol't  pile  of  exc(dlent  huflido-rohes,  and  here  1  lay 
down.     Shaw  hrought  me  three  hooks. 

••  Here,"  said  he,  •■  is  your  Shakspeare  and  IJyron,  and 
here  is  the  Old  Testament,  which  has  as  nnicli  poetiy  in 
it  as  the  other  two  put  togetlu-r." 

i  chose  the  worst  of  the  three,  and  for  the  ^^I'eater  part 
of  that  day  I  lay  on  tlu'  huflido-rohes,  fairly  rcNclling  in  the 
creations  of  that  resplendent  genius  which  has  achieved 
no  more  signal  triumph  than  that  of  half  heguiling  us  to 
forget  the  unnuinly  character  of  its  j)ossessor. 


m§ 


Il 

ffir 

a    ■ 

i 

x'.y 

; 

( 

i, 

CHAPTER  XX. 


T  III':      L  O  N  !•:  L  Y      J  0  URN  V.  Y . 


y 


■fii-l- 


mi 


Hi; 


o 


N  tlio  (hiy  ()('  my  nrrival  at  Fort  Laramie,  Sluiw  and 
1  were  louiiiiiiio-  on  two  bufi'p.lo-rohes  in  tlic  large 
apartment  liospital-ly  assigned  to  ns  :  Henry  Cliatillon 
also  was  jircscnt,  tmsy  aliont  the  harne.-s  and  wi'aj)ons, 
"whieh  had  lieen  lironulit  into  the  I'oom,  and  two  or  three 


ndians   wn-re   ei'onehinti'  on 


1 

fixed  unwavci'iiiii'  tia/.e 


the  fl 


oor,  evuiu'  ns  wi 


th  til 


cir 


I  1 


ia\e  licen  weil  o 


IT  her 


(',"  sai 


d  SI 


law,  '•  m  all  i-esiiect 


but  one  :  there  is  no  good  i<Jt<itf</><(isJi<(  to  t)e  had  I'or  love 
or  money."' 

I  iiave  him  a  small  leatlier  baa"  eontaininu'  some  of  ex- 
ccllent  ([nality.  which  )  had  bronght  iVom  the  lUack  Hills. 
"Now,  Henry,"  said  he,  "  hand  me  I'apin's  ehopping- 
board,  or  giNc  it  to  that  Indian,  and  let  him  ent  the  mix- 
ture ;  they  niKh'i'stand  it  better  than  any  w  hite  man.'' 

The  Indian,  withont  saying  a  word,  mixeil  the  liark  and 
the  tohaec!)  in  dne  pi'ojiortions,  filled  the  jjipe,  and  Hghted 
it.  'IMns  done,  my  eom|ianion  and  I  ])roeeeded  to  delih- 
erati'  on  onr  I'ntnre  conrse  of  proceeding;  first,  however, 
Shaw  aeipiainted  me  with  some  incidents  whieh  had  oc- 
curred at  the  Tort  dnriiiu'  mv  absence. 

Alioiit  a  wee!':  helbre,  lour  men  had  ai'rived  IVoin 
beyond  the  nionntains:  Sublette.  Reddiek,  and  two 
others.  Just  lielbre  reacliing  the  fort,  they  had  met  a 
large  iiartv  of  Indians,  chieflv  \'oung  men.     All  of  them 


THE    LONELY     JOURNEY. 


281 


liiiw  and 
he  large 
niatillon 
\V('a|ii)iis, 
or  tlii'ce 
itli  tlicir 

I'especls 
[\)V  love 

of  rx- 
<  Hills. 

loiiping- 
ic  inix- 

lan. 

ark  and 
liuiitcd 
()  ddili- 

lowi'ver, 
had  oc- 

d  IVom 
lid  Invo 
il  met  a 
i)f  Ihem 


belonged  to  the  village  of  our  old  iViend  Smoke,  who, 
with  his  whole  hand  of  adherents,  pnd'essed  the  greatest 
friendship  for  the  whites.  The  travellei's  therefore 
aj»}troaclu'il  and  hegan  to  eonverse  without  the  least  sus- 
))i('ion.  Sudilenly,  however,  their  Itridies  were  seized,  and 
thev  were  ordered   to  dismount.     Instead   of  eomplvinir, 


thev    lashed    their    horse; 


an( 


I     l)roke    awav    from    the 


Indians.  As  thev  galloped  off  thev  heard  a  veil  liehind 
them,  with  a  hurst  of  derisive  laughter,  and  the  reports 
of  several  guns.  None  of  tlivni  were  hurt,  though  Rrd- 
diek's  hi'idle-rein  was  eut  hy  a  huUet  within  an  inch  of 
his  hand.  After  this  taste  of  Indian  manners,  they  I'elt 
lor  the  moment  no  disposition  to  eneounter  farthei'  I'isks. 
They  intended  to  pursue  the  route  southward  along  the 
foot  of  the  mountains  to  iJent's  Fort :  and  as  our  plans 
eoineided  with  theirs,  they  proposed  to  join  forees.  Find- 
ing, however,  that  1  did  n(jt  return,  they  grew  impatient 
of  inaetion,  forgot  their  late  (humer,  and  set  out  without 


us,  })rom 


ising  to  wait  our  arrival  at  JJent's  Fort.     Fro 


m 


thenee  we  were  to  make  the  long  jom'uey  to  the  settle- 
ments in  company,  as  the  path  was  not  a  little  dangerous, 
being  infested  by  hostile  Pawnees  and  Camanehes. 

AVe  expected,  on  reaching  IJent's  Fort,  to  find  there 
still  another  reinforcement.  A  young  Kentuekian  had 
come  out  to  the  mountains  with  Russid's  i>arty  of  Califor- 
nia emiu'rants.     One  of  his  chief  objects,  as  he  u'ave  out. 


was  to 


ill 


in 


Indi 


ill) 


an   exploit  winch    lie   altei'wai'ds 


sncceedi'd    in   acliieviiiii:,   mu 


eh  to  the  jeopardy  of  our- 
selves, and  others  who  had  to  pass  through  the  country 
of  the  dead  Pawnee's  enraged  relatives.  Having  become 
disgusted  with  his  emigrant  associates,  he  left  them,  and 
had  some  time  belb'^e  set  out  with  a  jiarty  of  companions 
for  the  heail  of  the  Arkansas.  He  left  us  a  letter,  to  say 
that  he  would  wait  until  we  arrived  at  Pent's  Fort,  and 


■  '.'I 


m 


(Ml ' 


282 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


f! 


!i 


II 


accompany  us  theiico  to  llio  settleiiients,  AVheii  how- 
ever lie  came  to  the  I'ort,  lie  found  there  a  party  ol'  lurty 
men  about  to  make  the  homeward  journey,  and  wisely 
preferred  to  avail  himself  of  so  stronjj;  an  eseort.  Suli- 
lette  and  his  '.ompanions  also  joined  this  company  ;  so 
that  on  reaching  Jjcnt's  Fort,  some  six  weeks  after,  we 
found  ourselves  deserted  hy  our  allies  and  thrown  once 
more  upon  our  own  resources. 

On  the  fourth  of  August,  eai'ly  in  the  afternoon,  we 
bade  a  Ihial  adieu  to  the  hosjjitable  gateway  of  Fort 
Laramie.  Auaiii  Shaw  and  1  were  ridinu'  side  bv  side  on 
the  })rairie.  For  the  first  fifty  miles  we  had  com[)aiiioiis 
with  us:  Trochd,  a  trapper,  and  U(juville,  a  nondescript 
in  the  employ  of  the  Fur  Ccmipany,  who  were  going  to 
join  the  trader  Bisonette  at  his  cncani[)ment  near  the 
head  of  Horse  Creek.  We  rode  only  six  or  eight  miles 
that  afternoon  liefore  we  came  to  a  little  brook  traversing 
the  bari'en  jirairie.  All  along  its  coiirse  grew  copses  of 
young  wild-cherry  trees,  loaded  with  ripe  fruit,  and  almost 
concealing  the  gliding  thread  of  water  with  their  dense 
growth.  Here  we  eneamped  ;  and  being  too  indolent  to 
jiitcli  our  tent,  we  Hung  our  saddles  on  the  ground,  spread 
a  pair  of  biiflalo-robes,  lay  down  nj)on  them,  and  began 
to  smoke.  Meanwhile  Deslauriers  busied  himself  with 
his  frying-pan,  and  Raymond  stood  guard  over  the  band 
of  grazing  horses.  ])eslauriers  had  an  active  assistant  in 
Rouville,  who  professed  great  skill  in  the  culinary  art, 
and,  seizing  upon  a  fork,  began  to  lend  his  aid  in  cooking 
sui)}ter.  Indeed,  according  to  his  own  belief,  Rouville 
was  a  man  of  universal  knowledge,  and  he  lost  no  oppor- 
tunity to  display  his  manifold  accmnplishinents.  He  had 
been  a  circus-rider  at  St.  Louis,  and  once  he  rode  round 
Fort  Laramie  on  his  head,  to  the  utter  bewiUlerment  of 
the  Lidians.     He  was  also  noted  as  the  wit  of  the  fort ; 


Jd 


THE    LONELY    JOURNEY. 


283 


)\vii  uiice 


raversiiu 


and  us  lu3  liad  coiisklt'nil)l(;  Iniinor  and  abnndant  vivacity, 
he  C()ntril)nt('(l  mow  that  niuht  to  the  livoUnoss  of  the 
camp  than  all  tlic  rest  of  the  party  jint  togetlier.  At  one 
instant  iu;  woidd  kneel  hy  Deslani'iei's,  instrnetinu'  him  in 
the  true  method  of  frying  antehjiie-steaks,  then  he  wonld 
come  and  seat  himsell'  at  unr  side,  dilating  npon  the 
ccn-rect  I'ashion  of  braiding  np  a  horse's  tail,  telling 
apocryphal  .-tories  how  he  had  kille(l  a  hnflido-lmll  with  a 
knife,  having  lii'st  cnt  off  his  tail  when  at  full  speed,  or 
relating  whimsical  anecdotes  of  the  l)nur<if'iU  I'apin.  At 
last  he  snat(died  np  a  volume  of  Shakspeare  that  was 
lying  on  the  grass,  and  halted  and  stnmhled  through  a 
line  or  two  to  [)rove  that  Ik;  conld  read,  lie  went 
gamliolling  about  the  camp,  chattering  like  some  frolic- 
some ape;  and  whatever  he  was  doing  at  one  moment, 
the  presumption  was  a  snre  one  that  lu'  would  not  bo 
doing  it  the  next.  His  conijianion  Troche  sat  silently  on 
the  grass,  not  sjieaking  a  word,  l)nt  keeping  a  vigilant  eyo 
on  a  very  ngly  little  Utah  s(piaw,  of  whom  he  was  ex- 
tremely jeahtns. 

On  the  next  day  we  travelled  farther,  crossing  the  wide 
sterile  basin  called  ••  Goche's  Hole."  Towards  night  we 
])ecame  involved  among  ravines  ;  and  being  unal)le  to  find 
water,  onr  journey  was  protracted  to  a  very  late  hour. 
On  the  next  morning  we  had  to  i)ass  a  long  line  of  bluffs, 
whose  raw  sides,  wi'onjdit  upon  liy  raius  and  storms.  wei'C 
of  a  ghastly  whiteness  most  o))pressive  to  the  sight.  As 
we  ascended  a  gap  in  these  hills,  the  way  was  marl\ed  by 
huge  foot-prints,  like  those  of  a  human  giant.  They 
were  the  tracks  of  the  grizzly  i)ear,  of  whicli  we  had  also 
seen  abnndancc  on  the  day  bcfoi'e.  Innnediately  after 
this  we  were  crossing  a  l)arren  jilain,  spi-eadiiig  in  long 
and  gentle  undulations  to  tlu;  horizon.  'JMiough  the  snn 
was  bright,  there  was  a  light  haze   in  the  atmosphere. 


^^'m 


Wm^ 


lij 


284 


THE    ORF.GON    TRAIL. 


Tlic  distant  hills  assumed  strange,  distorted  forms  in  tlie 
mirajre,  and  the  edge  of  the  horizon  was  continually 
changing  its  as]ie(,'t.  Shaw  and  1  were  riding  together, 
and  Henry  Chatillon  was  a  few  rods  before  us,  when  he 
sto))])ed  his  horse  suddenly,  and  turning  round  with  the 
jteculiar  earnest  expression  Avhich  lie  always  wore  when 
excited,  called  us  to  come  forward.  We  galloped  to  his 
side,  llenrv  iiointed  towards  a  black  siu'ck  on  the  li'rav 
swell  of  the  piairie,  ap])arently  about  a  mile  off.  '•  Jt 
nnist  be  a  bear,"  said  he;  '"come,  now  we  shall  all  have 
some  sport.  IJetter  fun  to  fight  him  than  to  fight  an  old 
buffalo-bull     uTi/',lv  bear  so  stront!:  and  smart." 

So  we  all  galloped  forward  together,  ])repare(l  for  a  hard 
fight  ;  for  these  bears,  though  clumsy  in  aj)pearance,  are 
incredilily  fierce  and  active.  The  swell  of  the  jjrairie 
concealed  the  black  obiect  from  our  view.  Immediatelv 
after  it  appeared  again.  ]>ut  now  it  seemed  very  near  to 
us ;  and  as  we  looked  at  it  in  astonishment,  it  suddeidy 
separated  into  two  ])arts,  each  of  which  took  wing  and 
flew  away.  We  stoj)ped  our  horses  and  looked  at  Henry, 
whose  face  exhibited  a  curious  mixture  of  mirth  and 
mortification.  His  eye  had  been  so  completely  deceived 
by  the  j)eculiar  atmosj»hcre,  that  he  had  mistaken  two 
larae  crows  at  the  distance  of  fiftv  rods  for  a  grizzlv  bear 
a  mile  off.  To  the  journey's  end  Henry  never  heard  the 
last  of  the  grizzly  bear  with  wings. 

In  the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  foot  of  a  considerable 
hill.  As  we  ascended  it,  Rouville  began  to  ask  questions 
concerning  our  condition  and  prospects  at  home,  and 
Shaw  was  edifvina:  him  with  an  accomit  of  an  imauinarv 

»-'  c  1,1. 

wife  and  chiM.  to  which  he  listened  with  imjdicit  faith. 
Reaching  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  saw  the  windinus  of 
Horse  Creek  on  the  plains  below  us,  and  a  little  on  the 
left  we  could  distinguish  the  camp  of  Bisonette  among 


THE     LONELY     JOURNEY. 


'285 


tlio  frees  ami  cDpscs  aloiiii"  tlic  courso  of  tlio  stream. 
Rouvillo's  lace  assumed  just  tlieu  a  ludicivtusly  lilank 
expressiou.  We  iM(|uire(l  wliat  was  the  matter  ;  wlieu  it 
appeared  that  IJisouette  had  sent  him  IVom  this  phvce  to 
Fort  Tiaramie  with  the  sole  ohject  of  hriutiiuii'  Itaek  a  sup- 
})ly  of  t()l)a('eo.  Our  rattlebrain  friend,  from  the  time  of 
his  reaeliinu'  the  fort  up  to  the  present  moment,  had  en- 
tirely forn-otten  the  ol)iect  of  his  iourne\',  and  had  ridden 
a  dan;j,erons  humh'ed  miles  for  nothint;'.  Descending'  to 
Horse  Creek,  we  forded  it,  and  on  the  opposite  hank  a 
solitary  Indinn  sat  on  horseback  under  a  tree.  He  said 
nothinii',  but  turned  and  led  the  way  towards  the  camp. 
Bisonette  had  made  choice  of  an  admirable  jxjsition. 
The  stream,  with  its  thick  <irowth  of  trees,  inclosed  on 
three  sides  a  wide  "reen  meadow,  where  about  fortv  Dah- 
cotah  lodues  wore  pitched  in  a  circle,  and  beyond  them  a 
few  lodges  of  the  friendly  Shiennes.  IJisonette  himself 
liveil  in  the  Indian  manner.  Ridinji,'  uj)  to  his  lodue,  we 
founil  him  seated  at  the  head  of  it,  surrouiided  by  various 
aj)pliances  of  comfort  not  common  on  tlu?  praii'io.  His 
squaw  was  near  him,  and  rosy  children  weic  seramliiing 
about  in  printed  calico  ji'owns  ;  Paul  Dorion,  also,  with 
his  leathery  face  and  old  white  capote,  was  seated  in  the 
lodge,  touother  with  Antoine  Lc  Rouoc,  a  half-breed  Paw- 
nee, Sibille,  a  trader,  and  several  other  wliite  men. 

"■  It  will  do  you  no  harm,*'  said  Ijisoncttc,  "  to  stay 
here  with  us  for  a  dav  or  two,  befoi'C  vou  start  for  the 
Pueblo." 

We  accepted  the  invitation,  and  pit(died  our  tent  on  a 
risin<;  ground  al)0ve  the  camp  and  close  to  the  trees. 
Bisonette  soon  invited  us  to  a  feast,  and  we  suflered 
abundance  of  the  same  sort  of  attention  from  his  hKban 
associates.  The  reader  may  possibly  recollect  that  when 
I  joined  the   Indian  village,   beyond    Ihe  Black  Hills,  I 


^i 


m 


n  ;■::  i 


w 

fW 

1 

; 
1  ■ 

\pi. 


!H 


^k. 


286 


THE    OREGON    TRATT- 


fouuil  tlinl  a  few  fimiilitis  wcro  absent,  liaviiiu'  dccliiiod  to 
]iiiss  the  Miounliiiiis  alonii'  with  tlic  rest.  The  Indiiiiis  in 
Disoiielte's  ('iun|i  consisted  of  these  very  I'aiuilies,  and 
nmiiy  of  them  came  to  nie  that  oveninu'  to  iiKpiire  after 
tlieir  rehdives  and  friends.  They  were  not  a  little  morti- 
ThmI  to  learn  that  while  they.  IVoni  their  own  timidity  and 
indolence,  were  almost  in  a  starving'  condition,  the  rest 
of  the  villaue  had  itrcvided  their  lodues  foi-  the  next   sea- 

~  I  i 

son,  laid  in  a  great  stock  of  provisions,  and  were  living 
in  ahnndance.  J]isonette's  companions  had  been  snsiain- 
ing  themselves  for  some  time  on  wild  clieri'ics.  which  the 
scpiaws  j)onnded,  stones  and  all,  and  spread  on  Imflalo- 
rohcs  to  drv  in  the  f^un  :  thev  were  then  eaten  without 
farther  preparation,  or  used  as  an  ingredient  in  various 
delectable  compounds. 

On  the  next  day,  the  camp  was  in  commotion  with  a 
new  arrival.  A  single  Indian  had  come  with  his  family 
from  the  Arkansas.  As  he  j)assed  among  the  lodges,  he 
])ut  on  an  expression  of  unusual  dignity  and  imp(jrtance, 
and  gave  out  that  he  had  brought  great  news  ti>  tell  the 
"whites,  k^oon  after  the  S(iuaws  had  pitched  his  lodge,  he 
scut  his  little  son  to  invite  all  the  white  men,  and  all  the 
more  distinguished  Indians  to  a  feast.  The  guests  arrived 
and  sat  wedged  together,  shoulder  to  shoulder,  within  the 
hot  and  suObcating  lodge.  The  Stabl)er,  for  that  was  our 
entertainer's  name,  had  killed  an  old  buffalo  bull  on  his 
way.  This  veteran's  l)oiled  trijie,  tougher  than  leather, 
formed  the  main  item  of  the  repast.  For  the  rest,  it 
consisted  of  wild  cherries  and  grease  boiled  together  in 
a  large  cop])er  kettle.  The  feast  was  distributed,  and  for 
a  moment  all  was  silent,  strenuous  exertion  ;  then  each 
guest,  though  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  turned  his 
wooden  dish  bottom  ujtwards  to  ])rove  that  lie  had  done 
full  justice  to  his  entertainer's  hospitality.     The  Stabber 


Tlir,     I.ONIII.V     JOUUNEY. 


•JS7 


next  produced  lils  cli()j)j»inj:--l)()ard,  on  wliicli  lie  |ii'('|»!ir('d 
the  mixtiiiT  lor  sinoUinii',  and  lillod  sovfr.il  |ii|it's,  which 
circulated  amouir  the  ci»ni|)any.  This  done  he  scnttMl 
liiniseir  ujUMLiht  on  liis  couch,  and  hcLian  with  nuich  ucs- 
ticulation  to  tell  his  story.  I  will  not  ivpciit  his  chihlish 
jartron.  It  was  so  entan,ii'le(l,  like;  the  u-fcater  piiil  of  ;in 
Indian's  stories,  with  ahsurd  and  cuntrndiclory  details, 
that  it  was  almost  inipossililc  to  disciiu'ati'e  tVoni  it  a  single 
])articl(^  oi'  truth.  All  that  we  could  tiJither  was  the 
lollowint;' :  — 

lie  had  been  on  tlic  Arkansas,  and  tliere  Ik^  had  seen 
six  <rreat  war-])arties  of  whites.  lie  had  nev(M-  liclieved 
before  that  the  whoh;  W(jrld  (;ontain<Ml  half  so  many  wdiite 
men.  They  all  had  larue  horses,  lonu'  knives,  and  short 
ritles,  and  some  of  them  were  dressed  alike  in  tlu!  most 
splendid  war-dresses  he  had  ever  seen.  From  this  aeeomit 
it  was  clear  that  bodies  of  dragoons  and  ])erhaps  also  of 
volunteer  cavalry  had  ]>assed  up  the  Arkansas.  The 
Stabl)er  had  also  seen  a  great  many  of  the  white  lodges 
of  tlie  Meneaska,  drawn  by  their  long-horned  buffalo. 
These  couhl  be  nothing  else  than  covered  ox-wagons  used 
no  doubt  in  transporting  stores  for  the  tro()))S.  Soon 
after  seeing  this,  our  host  had  met  an  Indian  who  had 
lately  come  from  among  the  Camanches,  who  had  told 
him  that  all  the  Mexicans  had  gone  out  to  a  great  buffiilo 
hunt ;  that  the  Americans  hail  hid  themselves  in  a  ravine  ; 
and  that  when  the  Mexicans  had  shot  away  all  their  ar- 
rows, the  Americans  lired  theii-  guns,  raised  their  wai-- 
whoop,  rushed  out,  and  killed  tluMn  all.  AVc  could  oidy 
infer  fnmi  this,  that  wai-  had  been  declared  with  ^Icxico, 
and  a  batth}  fought  in  whii-h  the  Americans  were  victoi-i- 
ous.  When  some  weeks  after,  we  arrived  at  the  Pueblo. 
we  heard  of  ricneral  Kearney's  march  up  the  Arkansas, 
and  of  General  Taylor's  victories  at  Matamoras. 


■I   ! 


■p      {1 


## 


Iv 


f'^ 


288 


THE    ORECJON    TRAIL. 


ti !  I 


i;  (■ 


As  the  sun  was  Roitini^  that  cveninj^  a  crowd  ti'iUliciv,! 
on  the  pliiin  l»y  llie  sidt;  of  our  tent,  to  try  i\w  spciMl  of 
th(!ir  liorscs.     Tlu'sci  were  of  cvi'i'y  sliiipu,  size,  iunl  color. 
Sonic  Clinic  IVoni  California,  some  from  the   Stiites,  sonic 
IVom  amonfj:;  llu'  mountains,  and  sona;  from  tlie  wild  hands 
of  the  prairie.     Tliey  were  of  every  hue,  white,  hlaitk,  red, 
and  j^ray,  or  mottled  and  clouded  with  a  strani^e  variety 
of  colors.     They  all  had  a  wild  and  startlcil   look,  very 
ilifferent  from  the  soltcr  asjxict  of  a  well-lircd  city  steed. 
Those  most  noted  for  swiftness  and  spirit  wcrt;  decorated 
witli  ca^lc  fcalhei's  dan^linu;  from  their  manes  and  tails. 
Fifty  or  sixty  Dahcotali  were  present,  wrappe(l  IVom  head 
to    foot   in  their  heavy   roltes  of  whitenc(l   hid(!.     There 
were  also  a  considcralilc  number  of  the  Shiennes,  maiiv 
(d'  whom  wore  .uaudy  Mexican  jtonclios,  swathed  aroiuid 
theii"  shoulders,  but  leaving  the  riuht  arm  bai'e.     Minuled 
amon^"  the  crowd  of  Indians  was  a  numiier  of  Canadians, 
chielly  in  the  employ  of  iJisonctte;  men,  whose  home  is 
tlie  wihlerncss,  and  who  love  the  canip-Hrc  better  than  the 
domestic  hearth.     They  arc  contented  and  liappy  in  the 
midst  of  hardshi]),  privation,  and  dang'cr.     Their  I'heer- 
fnlness  and  gayety  is  irrepressible,  and  no  pcojde  on  earth 
understand  better  how  "to  dalf  the  world  aside  and  bid 
it  pass."     Besides  these,  were  two  or  three  half-breeds,  a 
race  of  rather  extraordinary  composition,  being  according 
to  the  common  saying  half  Indian,  half  white  man.  and 
half  devil.     Antoine  Le  Rouge  was  the  most  conspicuous 
among  them,  with  his  loose  trousers  and  fluttering  calico 
shirt.     A  handkerchief  was  bound  round  his  head  to  con- 
line  his  black   snaky  hair,  and  his  small   ey<'s   twiuklcMJ 
beneath   it  with   a  mischievous  lustre.      He   had  a   line 
cream-colored  horse,  whose  speed  he  nnist  needs  try  along 
witli  the  rest.      So  he  threw  off  the  rude   higli-peakcd 
saddle,  and  substituting  a  piece  of   butlalo-robe,  leaped 


Tin:    LONELY    JOUIINEY. 


289 


liulilly  into  his  scat.  The  spiicc  was  clcarcil.  the  word 
was  ^iNcii.  and  he  and  liis  Indian  rival  (hiilctl  ont  like 
liiilitninu'  iVdin  anion^  the  ci'owd,  each  sli'ctchinu'  lorwai'd 
over  his  lutrsc's  neck  and  jilyinu'  his  heavy  Indian  whi|) 
with  Miiuht  and  main.  A  nunnent.  and  liolh  were  lost 
ill  the  Lilooni  :  l)nt  Antoine  soon  came  ridintr  l)ack  \  ietoi'i- 
uus,  exnltinuly  ^  ittin^i^"  the  neck  of  his  ([niverinjj,- iind  pant- 
ing" liorse. 

Ahont  midnijiht,  as  1  hiy  asleep,  wra|ipe(l  in  a  hnlTalo- 
rohe  on  the  j;ronnd  hy  the  side  of  onr  cart,  Kaymond 
came  and  woke  me.  Somethinu'  he  said  was  j^'oing  I'or- 
ward  whieli  I  wonld  like  to  see.  liookinu'  down  into  tiio 
camp,  1  saw  on  the  i'arthei'  side;  of  it  a  ^reat  numher  of 
Indians  lialhered  ahont  a  lire,  tlie  hriiiht  <:lare  ol"  which 


m 


iide   them   visihle   throiiuh  the   thick   darkne 


while 


from  the  midst  proceeded  a  loud,  measured  chant  which 
would  hiive  killed  Pauaiuni  (jnt right,  broken  occasionally 
liy  a  hiirst  of  shai'p  yells.  1  gathered  the  njiie  around  me, 
for  the  night  was  cold,  and  walked  down  to  the  si»ot. 
The  dark  tlii'oiig  of  Indians  was  so  dense  that  they  almost 
intercepted  the  liglit  of  the  llame.  As  I  was  |)nshing 
among  them  with  little  ceremony,  a  cliief  intei'posed  him- 
self, and  1  was  given  to  uiiderstaiid  that  a  w  hite  man  must 
not  a|)j)roacli  the  scene  of  their  solemnities  too  closely. 
By  jiassing  round  to  tin;  other  side  where  there  was  a  little 
opening  in  the  crowd,  1  conld  see  clearly  what  was  going 
forward,  without  intruding  my  imhallowed  i)resencG  into 
the  inner  ciride.     Tlii}   societvof  the  '•  Stronu'  Hearts" 


were   enu'aticd    m   one   o 


f    tl 


leir   (huu'es. 


Th 


'tron; 


.Hearts"  are  a  warlike  association,  comprising  men  of 
both  the  Dahcotah  and  Shieiuu!  nations,  and  entirely 
composed,  or  sii]»p(jsed  \o  he  so,  of  young  braves  of  the 
highest  mettle.  Its  fundamental  )iiincii)le  is  tlio  admir- 
able one  of  never   retreating  from  any  enterprise  once 


1    .     ! 


1 1 


I: 


'^f 


i^*  } 


[(( 


200 


TFrr,  our,(;oN  tuaii, 


lioLnm.  All  tlicsc  Iii(iiiiii  iissocintioiis  Iimvc  a  liifi'lMrv 
spirit.  'I'linl  (if  llic  StroiiL;-  llciii'ts  is  niiliodiiMl  in  the 
fox,  ill!  iiiiiiiiii!  wliicli  while  iiicii  wmtld  liiii-illy  li;i\o 
SoliM'tcd  lur  ;i  siiuiiiir  |i(ii'|ins(',  tlimiuli  liis  siilitlc  (•liiiriic- 
Ici- Jiu'iTcs  well  ciKiiiiili  with  an  liidiiiirH  notions  of  what 
is  hoiioi'ahlc  in  warl'arc  The  (hiiicci's  were  cindini:'  round 
and  roMiid  the  (ire.  each  liunic  l>ri,u'litly  illiiiniii('(l  at  one 
iiioincnt  liy  the  yellow  liuht.aml  at  the  next  di'awn  in 
hlaekest  shadow  as  it  passed   hetweeii    the   jjaine    and   the 


Sjteetatoi" 


Tl 


lev  wo 


nld   imitate  with  the  most    Indierou- 


exactness  the  motions  and  voice  of  llieii"  sly  pati-on  the 


iox.       Then    a    startlinu'    ve 


won  III 


he    iincn. 


M; 


niv 


other  warriors  would  leap  into  the  i-inu'.  and  with  i'aces 
ii|)tni'ned  towards  the  stailess  sky,  they  would  all  stamp, 
and  whoop,  and  hnmdish  their  weapons  like  so  many 
frantic  devils. 

We  remained  here  till  the  next  al'ternoon.  ^fy  com- 
panion and  1  with  our  three  attendants  then  set  out  fur 
the  Puehlo,  a  distance  ol'  thi'ee  hundred  nuh's.  and  we 
snppi»sed  the  joui'uey  would  occn|>y  al>out  a  I'ortniulit. 
Hurinu  this  time  we  all  1  ')pe(l  that  we  luiuht  not  meet  a 
siniile  human  heinj;,  lor  should  we  eiieonnter  any,  they 
would  in  all  ])rol>al)ility  he  enemies,  in  whose  eyes  our 
rities  would  he  our  oidy  passj)orts.  For  the  first  two 
davs  nothinu'  worth  mention  in, t:;  took  ])lace.     On  the  third 


iiKtrninir,  however,  an  untoward  incident  occnrred 


W 


were  encami>ed  l>y  the  side  oC  a  little  brook  in  an  exten- 
sive hollow  of  the  plain.  Oeslanriers  was  uj»  lonu'  het'orc 
dayliiiht,  and  lielbre  he  heoan  to  prepare  breakfast  he 
tnrneil  loose  all  the  horses,  as  in  duty  bound.  Ther«>  was 
a  cold  mist  clinjj^ing  close  to  the  uround,  and  l)y  the  time 
the  rest  of  iis  were  awake  the  animals  were  invisible.  It 
was  only  after  a  long  and  anxious  search  that  we  could 
discover  by  their  tracks  the  direction  they  had  taken. 


Tin:   i.oMi.Y  joruNrv 


'JDl 


Tlit'v  liiid  iill  scl  (){]'  Inr  lAirl  liiii-uinic,  lollowiii'r  llif  tniid- 
iiiM'c  of  !i  luiitiiiDiis  (lid  iiiiilr,  iiiwl  tlioiiu'li  iniiiiy  of  llirm 
were  li(»liltl('(l,  tlu'V  Irnvcllcd  three  miles  liet'ore  iheveoiild 
lie  (»ver!;il<eii  Mild  driven  hiiek. 

For  two  or  tlii'ee  diiys,  we  wer(»  |iiissiiiir  oxei-  :iii  Mi'id 
dosoi't.  The  oidy  ve^etntioii  Wiis  m  lew  tufts  of  short 
jiniss.  drie(l  nnd  shiivelleil  hy  the  heiit.  There  was  iilnm- 
daiiee  of  stnniu'o  insects  nnd  I'cptiles.  1 1  uuc  crickets,  hhiek 
and  hottle  ii'reen.  ami  wiiiuloss  <i'i'assho|i|iers  of  the  most 
extr.iva^aiit  dimensions,  Aver<>  tnmlilinu"  aliout  our  Iiorses' 
feet,  and  li/.ards  without  numlier  dartiiiu'  Hke  huhtniny; 
auionii"  the  tid'ts  of  urass.  The  most  ciu-ions  animal,  liow- 
evcr,  was  thai  commoidy  caHecl  the  horned-frojr-  1  cauLiht 
one  of  tliem  and  consinned  him  to  the  caic  df  heshiui'iers, 
who  tied  him  up  in  a  moccasin.  Aliout  a  month  after 
tliis,  1  examined  the  ja-isonor's  condition, and  lindinti'  him 
still  lively  and  active,  I  provided  him  with  a  cane  of 
liuftido-hide,  wlncli  was  hmiu'  np  in  the  cart.  In  this  man- 
ner he  arriv(Ml  safely  at  the  settlements.  Krom  tlieiice  he 
travelled  the  whole  wav  to  IJoston.  packe(l  (doselv  in  a 
trnnk,  heintr  reuah'd  with  fresli  air  reuidai'lv  everv  iiiiiht. 
When  he  I'eached  his  desiu'nation  he  was  deposited  under 
a  iilass  case,  wliei-e  he  sat  for  some  months  in  ^'I'eat  tran- 
(piillity,  alternat(dy  dilating-  and  contract inji'  his  while 
throat  to  tlie  admii'ation  of  his  visitors.  At  lenutli.  one 
morning  ahont  the  middle  of  winter,  he  u'avc  up  tlie  irhost, 
and  lie  now  occupies  a  hottle  of  alcohol  in  t he  At!assiz 
Museum.  Ilis  death  was  attrihuted  to  starvation,  a  very 
jirohahle  conclusion,  since  for  six  months  he  had  taken 
no  food  whatever,  tliouuh  the  sym]»athy  of  his  juveniU^  ad- 
mirers had  tempted  his  palate  with  a  <rrcat  variety  of  del- 
icacies. "We  found  also  animals  of  a  somewhat  laruer 
growth.  The  nnmher  of  prairie-dogs  was  astounding. 
Frequently  the  hard  and  dry  ])lain  was  thickly  covered, 


Ill 


III 


If 


'    4 
I   * 


iHi 


Q\)'2 


THK    OUKCiON     lUAII,. 


for  iiiilcH  to^cllHM",  wltli  tli(!  litllo  inoimds  wliicli  they  luiiko 
at  tlic  iMoiilli  III'  tlicir  hiit'i'ows,  mid  sniull  s(|ii('akiii^^  voices 
y(.'l|M'(l  ;il  lis,  us  \V(.'  puMseU  aloii^".  'I"ln'  noses  (»!'  Ilie  iii- 
liiiltilaiits  wei-ejiisl  visilik>  at  the  inoiitli  of  tlicir  holes.  Inil 
no  sooner  was  their  curiosity  satislit'd  thiin  tlicv  would 
instiiiitiv  vanish.  Sonio  of  tin;  hohlcr  doys — tliou<ili  in 
Wu'i  they  ill*'  no  flop's  at  nil,  hut  litth;  marmots  rather 
sniiiller  tluiii  a  ralihit — would  sit  yelpMi^' at  us  on  the  to|) 
of  their  mounds.  Jerkin^'  tht-ir  tails  ciii|ihiiticiilly  with  ev- 
ery shrill  cry  they  uttered.  Ah  the  danger  drew  nearer 
they  would  wheel  ahoiit,  toss  their  heels  into  tlu;  air,  and 
dive  in  a  t wiiikliii.i;'  into  their  liurrows.  Towards  sunset, 
and  es|)ei'ially  if  rain  was  thicateniuj;',  the  whole  commu- 
nity made  their  appearand.'  ahtjve  ground.  Wo  saw  them 
gathered  in  large  knots  around  the  hiirrow  of  some  favo- 
rite citizen.  There  tliev  would  all  sit  erect,  their  tails 
spread  out  on  the  ground,  and  their  paws  hanging  down 
Ijc'fore  lla'ir  white  hreasts,  chattering  and  s(|in'aking  with 
the  utmost  vivacity  upon  some  topic  of  common  interest, 
while  the  proprietor  (tf  tiie  hurrow  sat  on  tlu;  top  of  his 
mound,  looking  down  with  a  complacent  countenance  on 
the  enjoyment  of  his  guests.  Meanwhile,  othcr.s  ran  ahout 
iVom  liuri'ow  to  hurrow,  as  if  on  some  errand  of  the  last 
imponance  to  their  suhterranean  commonwealth.  'J'he 
snakes  aic  apparently  the  prairie-dog's  worst  enemies;  at 
least  1  think  too  well  of  the  latter  to  suppose  that  they  as- 
sociate on  friendly  terms  with  these  slimy  intruders,  which 
may  he  seen  at  all  times  hasking  among  their  holes,  into 
which  they  always  retreat  when  disturhed.  Small  owls, 
with  wise  and  grave  countenances,  also  make  their  ahodc 
with  the  prairie-dogs',  though  on  what  terms  they  live 
together  1  could  never  ascertain. 

On  the  lifth  day  after  leaving  ]>isonette's  camp,  we  saw, 
late  in  the  afternoon,  what  we  supposed  to  he  a  consider- 


Tin:    i.oM.i.v  joniM'Y. 


2f)3 


luii^h    111 


nlilc  s(n'{un.  Imt  on  npiirniu'liliiir  it,  wr  \\n\\u\  to  our  iiior- 
tificiitioii  iiolliiii^^  Imt  a  <lrv  linl  of  smid,  into  wliicli  tlio 
water  liii<l  sunk  ami  (lisa|i|trai(M|.  We  sf|iai;ilt(|,  sonio 
ridiiiir  ill  one  dirrclioii  ami  siini<>  in  aiiotlici*,  alonu'  its 
roui'so.  Still  we  1(11111(1  lid  traces  ol"  Wiitcr.  iKit  even  so 
niiH'li  as  a  wet  s|Mit  in  the  sand.  The  ojil  ('((lldn-wodd 
trees  that  'jrew  ahmu"  the  l>;iiik,  lamentalily  alaised  hy 
liiilitninu'  and  tempest,  were  withering"  wilh  the  dioiiLiht, 
and  on  the  dead  limhs,  at  the  summit  of  the  tallest,  half 
a  do/en  erows  were  hoarsely  eawin;:",  like  hiids  ol'  evil 
omen.  W<>  liad  no  alternative  hut  to  keep  on.  TheiL' 
was  no  water  nearer  than  the  South  Fork  ol"  the  I'hitte, 
iihoiit  ten  miles  distant.  We  ino\ed  forward.  ant:iv  and 
silent,  over  a  de.sert  as  Hat  as  tlu;  ontspread  ocean. 

The  sky  had  been  ohscnrcMl  since  the  niornin;:'  hy  thin 
mists    and   vapors,   hnt    now   vast    piles  of   clouds    were 


ithei'ed    toiicther   in   the   west. 


Tl 


ley   rose  to  a 


^•reat 


heiiiht  alt()ve  the  horizon,  and  lookiin^'  np  at  them  1  dis- 
tinunishe(l  one  mass  darker  tlnin  the  rest,  and  of  a  pecu- 
liar conical  form.  1  happened  to  look  aLiaiii,  and  still 
could  see  it  as  hefore.  At  some  moments  it  was  dimly 
visihh',  at  others  its  outline  was  sharp  and  distinct  :  hut 
while  the  clouds  aronml  it  were  sliiftinti",  chanuin^'.  and 
dissolvinir  awav.  it  still  towered  aloft  in  the  midst  of  tln-m, 
IixcmI  and  inmiovahli'.  Jt  must,  ihouiilit  l.he  the  siiinmit 
of  a  mountain  ;  and  yet  its  height  stau'iicriMl  me.  Myc(»n- 
clusion  was  rii:ht,  however.  It  was  Lonu's  I'eak.  once 
helieved  to  he  one  of  the  hitihest  of  the  I'ocky  Mounliiin 
cliain,  tliouiih  more  recent  discoveries  have  proNcd  the 
t'ontrary.  'I'he  ihickeninjr  jiloom  soon  hid  it  from  view, 
and  we  never  saw  it  auain,  for  on  the  followinu'  day.  and 
for  some  time  after,  tlie  air  was  so  full  of  mist  tliat  the 
view  of  distant  ohjeets  was  entirely  cut  olT. 

It  grew  very  late.     Turning  from  our  direct  course,  we 


iii 


i    ■  I 


294 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


iiuidc  for  tlie  river  nt  its  nearest  jxjiut,  tliougli  in  tlic  utter 
darkness  it  was  not  easy  to  direct  our  way  with  inucli 
j)recision.  IJayniond  rode  on  one  side  and  lleniy  on  the 
other.  We  heard  eacli  of  tlieni  shoutiuju,'  that  he  had  come 
upon  a  deep  ravine.  We  steered  at  random  between 
Scylhi  and  CharyhiHs,  and  soon  after  became  as  it  seemed 
inextricably  involved  with  deep  chasms  all  around  us, 
while  the  darkness  was  such  that  we  could  not  see  a  rod 
in  any  direction.  AVc  partially  extricated  ourselves  by 
scraml)linti',  cart  and  all,  through  a  shallow  ravine.  We 
came  next  to  a  steep  descent,  d(jwn  which  wo  ])lunged 
without  well  knowing  what  was  at  the  bottom.  There 
was  a  great  cracking  of  sticks  and  diy  twigs.  Over  our 
heads  were  certain  large  shadowy  objects  ;  and  in  front 
something  like  the  faint  gleaming  of  a  dark  sheet  of 
water.  Raymond  ran  his  horse  against  a  tree  ;  Henry 
alighted,  and,  feeling  on  the  ground,  declared  that  there 
was  irrass  cnouuh  for  the  horses.  Before  taking  off  his 
saddle,  each  man  led  liis  own  horses  down  to  the  water 
in  the  best  way  he  could.  Then  picketing  two  or  three 
of  the  evil-disposed,  we  turned  the  rest  loose,  and  lay 
down  among  the  dry  sticks  to  sleep.  In  the  morning  wo 
found  ourselves  close  to  the  South  Fork  of  the  Tlatte.  on 
a  s})ot  surrounded  by  bushes  and  rank  grass.  Compen- 
sating ourselves  with  a  hearty  breakfast,  for  tlie  ill-fare  of 
the  previous  night,  we  set  forward  again  on  our  journey. 
AVhen  only  two  or  three  rods  from  the  camp  1  saw  Hlunv 
sto[»his  mule,  level  his  gun,  and  lire  at  some  object  in  the 
grass.  Deslauriers  next  jumped  forward,  and  began  to 
dance  about,  belal)oring  the  unseen  enemy  with  a  whij). 
Then  he  stooped  down,  and  drew  out  of  the  grass  by  the 
neck  an  enormous  ratth^snake,  with  liis  head  completely 
shattered  by  Shaw's  l)ullet.  As  Deslauriers  held  him  out 
at  arm's  length  with  an  exulting  grin,  his  tail,  which  still 


THE    LONELY    JOURNEY. 


295 


)nimg  wo 


ki'iit  slowly  wi'ithing  iihoiit,  almost  touclicil  the  gi-ouiid ; 
uml  his  liudy  in  the  liirucsl  jiai't  \V!i.s  as  th.ick  as  a  stout 
luan's  arm.  lie  had  I'ourteeii  rattles,  Imi  the  end  ol'  Ins 
tail  was  blunted,  as  il' he  eould  um-e  have  hoasted  of  manv 
more.  From  this  time  till  we  reaehed  the  Pueblo,  we 
kilK'd  at  least  four  or  live  of  tlicsi!  snakes  every  day,  Jfs 
they  lay  eoiled  and  rattling  on  the  hot  sand.  Shaw  was 
the  Saint  I'alriek  of  the  party,  and  whenever  he  killed  a 
snake  he  pulled  off  his  tail  and  stoi'eil  it  away  in  his  bul- 
let-poueh,  which  was  soon  crannned  with  an  edilying  eol- 
leelion  ol"  i-altles,  u'rcat  and  small.     Deslauriers  with  his 


•>  e 


A\ 


hip  also  came  in  I'or  a  share  of  jiraise.  A  day  or  two 
after  this,  he  triumphantly  }»rodueed  a  small  snake  about 
a  span  and  a  halt"  lung,  with  one  infant  rattle  at  the  end 
of  his  tail. 

We  lorded  the  South  Fork  of  the  JMatte  On  its 
fartlier  l)ank  were  the  traees  of  a  very  lai'ge  eani})  of 
Arapahoes.  The  ashes  of  s(juie  three  hundred  fires  were 
visible  among  the  scattered  trees,  together  with  the  re- 
mains of  sweating  lodges,  and  all  the  other  apjairte- 
nanees  of  a  jiernianent  eamj).  The  ]»laee,  however,  had 
been  for  sijiiie  months  deserted.  A  few  miles  fai'ther 
on  we  found  more  recent  signs  of  Indians;  the  trail  of 
two  or  three  lodges,  M'hich  had  evidently  |iassed  tlu."  day 
before  ;  every  footprint  was  perfectly  distinct  in  the  dry, 
dusty  soil.      We  noticed   in   jiarlicniar  the   ivark  of   one 


s    economica 


moccasin.  n|M)n  the  sole  of   which    it 

jirietor  had  placed  a   lai'ge   jiatch.     'I'hese  sigi 


)ro- 


is  !^a\c  lis 


but    little    nneasin 


ess. 


as    til  "    numlier    o 


f   tl 


le    warriors 


At 


noon   we 


scarcely  exceeded  that  of  our  own   party 

rested  under  the  walls  of  a  lariic  fort,  built    in  these  soli 


tudes  some  years  since 


bv  M.  St.   V 


ram. 


It 


was    now 


abandoned  and  fast  lalling  into  ruin.     The  walls  of  un- 
baked   bricks    were   cracked  IVoni  top  to  bottom.      Our 


'I  i 


296 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


i  if 


i 


I 


horses  recoiled  in  terror  from  the  neglected  entrance, 
where  the  heavy  gates  were  torn  from  their  hinges  and 
flung  down.  The  area  within  was  overgrown  with  weeds, 
and  the  long  ranges  of  ai)artnients  oiice  occupied  hy  the 
motley  concourse  of  traders,  Canadians,  and  sijuaws,  wcie 
now  niiseral)ly  dila[)idated.  Twelve  miles  I'arthcr  on,  near 
the  sj)ot  where  we  encamped,  were  the  remains  of  another 
fort,  standing  in  melancholy  desertion  and  neglect. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  we  made;  a  staitling 
discovery.  We  passed  close  by  a  large  desei'ted  encamp- 
ment of  Arapahocs.  There  were  about  lifty  fires  still 
smouldering  on  the  ground,  and  it  was  evident  from  numer- 
ous signs  that  the  Indians  nuist  have  left  the  place  within 
two  hours  of  (MH-  reaching  it.  Their  trail  crossed  our 
own,  at  right  angles,  and  led  in  the  direction  of  a  line  of 
liills,  half  a  mile  on  our  left.  There  were  women  and 
children  in  th.e  l»arty,  which  would  have  greatly  dimin- 
ished the  danu'cr  of  encountering  tlu>m.  Jlenrv  Chatillon 
examined  the  encampment  and  the  trail  with  a  very 
})rofessional  and  business-lilvc  air. 

"  ^^up})osing  we  had  met  them,  Henry  ?  "  said  I. 

"  Why,"  said  he.  "  we  hold  out  our  hands  to  them,  and 
give  them  all  we've  got:  they  take  away  eveiy  thing, 
and  then  1  believe  they  no  kill  us.  Perhaps,"  added  he, 
looking  up  with  a  (piiet  unchanged  face,  "perhaps  we 
no  let  them  rob  us.  Mavbe  before  thev  come  near,  we 
have  a  chance  to  get  into  a  ravine,  or  under  the  bank  of 
the  rivei' :  then,  you  know,  we  fight  them." 

About  noon  on  that  day  v\'c  reached  Cherry  Creek. 
Here  was  a  great  al)undance  of  wild-cherries,  jilums, 
gooseberries,  and  currants.  The  stream,  howtn-er,  like 
most  of  the  others  which  we  passed,  was  diied  up  with 
the  heat,  and  we  had  to  dig  holes  in  the  sand  to  find 
water  for  ourselves  and  our  horses.     Two  davs  after,  we 


_J 


THE    LONELY    JOURNEY, 


297 


iili'aiicc, 


left  the  linnks  of  the  creek,  Avliich  we  had  been  fullowhig 
for  some  time,  and  licuan  to  cross  the  hiiih  divi(liii«r  ridg'e 
Avhieh  separates  the  waters  of  the  Platte  from  tliose  of 
the  Arkansas.  'J'hc  scenery  was  ahouc.'tlier  cluuiucd.  Jn 
]»laec  of  the  burning  plains,  we  pass('(l  through  rough  and 
savauc  silens,  and  anionti'  hills  crowned  with  a  drearv 
growth  of  pines.  We  encamped  among  these  solitudes 
on  the  night  of  the  sixteenth  of  August.  A  temj)est  was 
threateninu".  The  sun  went  tlown  auKJuii"  volumes  of  jet- 
black  cloud.  edg(,'(l  with  a  bloody  red.  But  in  spite  of 
these  })oi'tentons  signs,  we  neglected  to  {»ut  u[)  the  tent, 
and,  being  extremely  fatigued,  lay  down  on  the  ground 
and  fell  aslee|».  'I'lie  storm  broke  about  midnight,  and 
we  pitched  the  tent  amid  darkness  and  confusion.  In  the 
morning  all  was  fair  again,  and  Pike's  Peak,  white  with 
snow,  was  towering  altove  the  wilderness  afar  off. 

We  pushed  through  an  exten>ive  tract  of  pine  woods. 
Large  black-s([uirrels  were  leaping  among  the  branches. 
From  the  farther  edge  of  tliis  forest  we  saw  the  jirairic 
again,  hollowed  out  before  us  into  a  vast  basin,  and  a!)out 
a  mile  in  front  we  could  discern  a  little  black  speck 
moving  upon  its  surface.  It  could  be  nothing  but  a  buf- 
falo. Henry  primed  his  ri tie  afresh  and  galloped  forward. 
To  the  left  of  the  animal  was  a  low  rocky  mound,  of 
M'hich  Henry  availed  himself  in  making  his  aj)pi'oach. 
After  a  short  time  we  heard  the  faint  i-eport  of  the  rilh,'. 
The  bull,  mortally  wounded  from  a  distance  of  nearly 
three  hundred  yards,  rn,n  wildly  round  and  round  in  a 
circle.  Shaw  and  1  then  gallopeil  forward,  ami  jfassing 
him  as  lie  ran,  foannng  with  rage  and  pain,  discharged 
our  pistols  into  his  side.  Once  or  twice  he  rusheij  furi- 
ously ujton  us,  l)ut  his  strength  was  rapidly  exhausted. 
Down  he  fell  on  his  knees.  For  one  instant  he  glai'cd  up 
at  his    enemies,   with    burninu'   eves,   throut-h    his    black 


,.  i 


'f  ir' 


I  f 


298 


THE    OllEUON    TRAIL. 


I>     !  '  i 


i    . 


i               ! 

.i                 i 

i  "          ;    .  ■■  ( 

bk.^  '  ^ 

liiiigled  mauc,  ami  then  rolled  over  on  his  side.  Though 
giuiiit  and  thin,  he  was  larger  and  heavier  than  the 
largest  ox.  Foam  and  l>l(jod  ilcw  together  I'roiu  his  n(js- 
trils  as  he  lay  bellowing  and  pawing  the  ground,  tearing 
up  gi'ass  and  earth  with  his  hool's.  His  sides  rose  and  tell 
like  a  vast  j)air  oi"  bellows,  the  blood  sjtouting  up  in  jets 
I'rom  the  bullet-holes.  Suddenly  his  glaring  eyes  l»eeanic 
like  a  lileless  jelly,  lie  lay  motionless  on  the  ground. 
Jlenry  stoojted  over  him,  and,  making  an  ineision  with  his 
knil'e,  pronouneed  the  meat  too  rank  ajid  tough  lor  use; 
so  disappointt.'d  in  our  hopes  of  an  addition  to  (jui'  stoek 
oi'  jii'ovisions,  we  rode  away  and  left  the  eareass  to  the 
wolves. 

In  the  afternoon  we  saw  the  mountains  rising  like  a 
aijiantic  wall  at  no  great  distance  on  our  riuht.     "  JJes 


b't:>^ 


sauu((<jcs  I  df,s  saiivai/es  !  "  exclaimed  Ueslaiuiers,  looking 
round  with  a  I'rightened  lace,  and  })ointing  with  his  whip 
towards  the  loot  oi'  the  mountains.  In  laet,  we  could  see 
at  a  distance  a  number  of  little  black  specks,  like  horse- 
men in  rapid  motion.  Henry  Chatillon,  with  Shaw  and 
myself,  galloped  towards  them  to  reconnoitre,  when  to 
our  anuisement  we  saw  the  su])posed  Arapahoes  resolved 
into  the  black  tops  of  some  pine-trees  whi(;h  grew  along 
a  ravine.  The  summits  of  these  pines,  just  visible  above 
the  verge  of  tlie  prairie,  aiid  seeming  to  move  as  we  our- 
selves were  advancing,  looked  exactly  like  a  Ihie  of 
liorsemen. 

We  encamj)ed  among  ravines  and  hollows,  through 
which  a  little  brook  was  foaming  angrilv.  Before  sunrise 
in  the  moi'ninu'  the  snow-covered  mountains  were  beauti- 
fully  tinged  with  a  tlelicate  rose  color.  A  noble  spectacle 
awaited  us  as  we  moved  forwai'd.  Six  ov  eight  miles  on 
our  right,  Pike's  Peak  and  his  giant  brethi'en  rose  out  of 
the    level    prairie,  as   if  springing  from  the   bed  of  the 


THE    LONELY     JOURNEY. 


•299 


ocean.  From  tlicir  summits  down  to  tlio  plain  Ik-Ionv 
they  were  involved  in  a  manLh.'  of  tdouds,  in  I'ostloss 
motion,  as  if  m',u('(l  liy  strong  winds.  For  one  instant 
some  snowy  neak,  towering  in  awlnl  solitude,  would  ho 
diselosed  to  view.  As  the  elouds  broke  along  the  moun- 
tain, we  eould  see  the  dreary  forests,  the  tremendous 
preeipiee.>,  the  white  j»atc]ies  of  snow,  the  gulls  and 
chasms  as  i)lii('k  as  night,  all  I'evealed  for  an  instant, 
and  then  disapjtearing  I'roni  the   view. 

On  the  day  after,  we  had  left  the  mountains  at  some 
distant.-e.  A  lilaek  eloud  dcscentled  upon  them,  and  a 
tremendous  explosion  of  thunder  followed,  reverberating 
among  the  preeipiees.  In  a  few  moments  every  thing 
grew  lilaek,  and  the  rain  ))onred  down  like  a  cataract. 
We  got  nnder  an  old  cotton-wood  tree,  which  stood  l)y 
the  side  of  a  stream,  and  waited  there  till  the  raue  of 
the  torrent  had  passed. 

The  (douds  opened  at  the  j)oint  where  they  first  had 
gathered,  and  the  whole  sublime  congregation  of  moun- 
tains was  bathed  at  once  in  warm  sunshine.  They  seemed 
more  like  some  vision  of  eastern  romance  than  like  a 
reality  of  that  wilderness :  all  were  melted  together  into 
a  soft  delicious  blue,  as  voluptuous  as  the  sky  of  Naples 
or  the  transparent  sea  that  washes  the  sunny  cliffj  of 
Capri.  On  the  left  the  sky  was  still  of  an  inky  lilaekness  ; 
but  two  concentric  raini)ows  stood  in  bright  relief  against 
it,  while  far  in  front  the  ragti'cd  elouds  still  streamed 
before  the  wind,  and  the  retreating  thunder  muttered 
angrily. 

Through  that  afternoon  and  the  next  morning  we  were 
passing  down  the  banks  of  the  stream,  called  ''  iJoiling 
J?pring  Creek,"  from  the  boiling  spring  whose  waters 
flow  into  it.  When  we  stopped  at  noon,  we  wci'o  within 
six  or  eight  miles  of  the  Pueblo,     trotting  out  again,  we 


I         .■       !l! 


j.( 


llilil 

lUfli 


300 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


fouiid  l)y  tliG  frcsli  tracks  tlinf  n  horsomnii  had  just  been 
out  to  reconnoitre  us  ;  he  luid  circled  hall"  i-ouiid  Ihecanij), 
aud  tlien  galloped  ba(;k  at  full  speed  Tor  tlic  Puelthj. 
What  made  him  so  shy  of  us  we  could  not  conceive. 
After  an  hour's  ride  we  reached  the  edn'e  of  a  hill,  from 
which  a  welcome  sight  greeted  ns,  The  Arkansas  ran 
alonu'  the  valley  below,  among  woods  and  groves,  and 
closely  nestled  in  the  midst  of  wide  corn-lields  and  green 
meadows,  wliei'c  cattle  were  grazing,  rose  the  low  mud 
walls  of  the  Pueblo. 


Ili 


i  i„i         -     ■ 

j,      ;                                      ;           : 

■l                     '.I 
•  * 

'  .\           :   '     . 
1^        ;HS^  ' 

i 

CHAPTER  XXI 


THE    PUKF'.LO    AND    UHNT  S    FORT. 


"\T  7K  approaclicd  tlio  gate  of  tlie  PiicMo.  It  was  a 
^  '  wri'li'lied  spoc'ics  of  fort,  of  most  primitive  coii- 
striictioii,  lieiiig'  iu)thiii<r  more  tlian  a  large  s(niare  iii- 
closure,  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  nnul,  miserably  cracked 
and  dilapidated.  The  slender  pickets  that  surmounted 
it  were  half  Ijroken  down,  and  the  gate  dangled  on  its 
wooden  liinges  so  loosely,  that  to  ojien  or  shut  it- seemed 
likely  to  fling  it  down  altogether.  Two  or  three  s(iualid 
Mexicans,  with  their  broad  hats,  and  their  vile  faces  over- 
grown with  hair,  were  lounging  about  tlic  bank  of  the 
river  in  front  of  it.  They  disai)peared  as  they  saw  us 
approach  ;  and  as  we  rode  np  to  the  gate,  a  light  active 
little  figure  came  out  to  meet  us.  It  was  our  old  IViend 
Richard.  lie  had  come  from  Fort  Laramie  on  a  ti-ading 
expedition  to  Taos ;  Init  finding  when  he  reached  the 
Pueblo  that  the  war  would  jirevent  his  going  farther,  he 
was  quietly  waiting  till  the  coniiuest  of  the  c(juntry  should 
allow  him  to  proceed,  lie  seemed  to  led  bound  to  do  the 
honors  of  the  })lace.  ^^haking  us  warndy  liy  the  hand,  he 
led  the  way  into  the  area. 

Here  we  saw  his  large  Panta  Fo  wagons  standing  to- 
gether. A  few  s(iuaws  and  Sj)anish  women,  and  a  I'rw 
Mexicans,  as  mean  and  miserable  as  the  place  itself,  were 
lazily  sauntering  about.  Richard  conducted  us  to  the 
state  apartment  of  the  Pueblo,  a  small  nuid  r(j(nn,  very 


30-2 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


i^ll 


ili 


111  i '  • 


.'  i 


'II 


if 


neatly  liiiisliod,  coiisideriivii'  llio  luiitoriiil,  and  t>'nriii.shcd 
\vilii  a  ci'iiciCix,  a  lookiiiu-uiass.  a  pictiii'*^  of  llic  X'irn'iii, 
and  a  I'listy  liorsc-pislol.  'riicrc  were  no  cliaiis.  Imt  in- 
stead of  tlicni  a  nnnil)or  <.)!' chests  and  Uoxcs  raniicd  alionf 
the  room.  There  was  another  room  li(\vond,  less  snni|»tu- 
onsly  decorated,  and  liere  three  or  t'onr  Spiinisli  <iMrls,  one 
of  them  very  pretty,  were  Itakinti;  ea,kes  at  a  mnd  lir(^- 
jthiee  in  the  corner.  They  Itrouulit  out  a  ]>on(dio.  whieli 
tliey  sj)read  ujion  tlie  (looi*  hy  way  of  tahU'-elotli.  A 
siii)|ier,  Mhieli  seemed  to  us  hixnrious,  was  soon  laid  out 
r.pon  it,  and  folded  hul'l'alo-i'ohes  wei'e  jilaced  arouml  it  to 
receive  the  ti'uests.  Two  or  three  Americans  liesides  our- 
selves wei'e  present.  We  sat  down  in  Turkish  lashion, 
and  hegan  to  ask  the  news.  Richard  told  ns  that,  ahout 
three  weeks  hefore.  General  Keai'ney's  army  had  left 
Bent's  Fort  to  march  against  Santa  Fe  ;  that  when  last 
heard  from  they  were  ai)j)r()aching  the  delil(>s  that  led  to 
the  city.  One  of  the  Americans  produced  a  dingy  news- 
pai)er,  containing  an  account  of  the  hattles  of  Palo  Alto 
and  Resaca  de  la  Raima.  While  we  were  discussing 
these  matters,  the  doorwav  was  darkened  hv  a  tall, 
shamhling  fellow,  wlio  stood  with  his  hands  in  his  i)ockets 
taking  a  leisurely  survey  of  the  premises  hefore  he  entered. 
He  wore  brown  homesjnni  trousers,  much  too  shoi-t  for 
his  legs,  and  a  pistol  and  bowie-knife  stuck  in  his  belt. 
His  head  and  one  eye  were  enveloped  in  a  huge  bandage 
of  linen.  Having  com})leted  his-  observations,  he  came 
slouching  in,  and  sat  down  on  a  chest.  Eight  or  ten 
more  of  the  same  stamp  followed,  and  very  coolly  arranir- 
ing  themselves  a1)0ut  the  room,  began  to  stare  at  the 
com|)any.  We  were  i'orcibly  reminded  of  the  Oregon 
emigrants,  though  these  unwelcome  visitors  had  a  certain 
glitter  of  the  eye,  and  a  compression  of  the  li})s,  which 
distinguished  them   from  our  old   acquaintances  of  the 


TiiK  rur.nr.o    and    hknt  s   iout. 


303 


prairie.  'I'licv  licii!\ii  to  cntoolilso  us  at  once.  iii(|iiii'iiiti- 
wliciH'c  we  liail  ('(line,  wliat  we  meant  to  do  next,  and 
M'liat  weie  our  |iros|iects  in  life. 

Tlie  iiKin  \vitl\  (lie  liiindaii'ed  head  had  niel  with  an  un- 
toward iieeident  a  lew  days  helni'e.  He  was  <:'oiuii' <lown 
to  the  river  to  liriiii;'  water,  and  was  jiushinii'  lliroutih  the 
young  willows  which  eoxcred  the  low  i^ioinid  when  he 
came  unawares  ii|Min  a  gri/./ly  hear,  which,  havinir  j'ust 
eat(.'n  a  huitido-hull.  had  hnii  down  to  slee|»  off  the  meal. 
I'lie  hear  I'use  on  his  hind  leus,  ami  gave  the  intiaider 
such  a  hlow  with  his  j)aw  that  he  laid  his  forehead  en- 
tirely hare,  clawed  otftho  front  of  his  scalp,  and  narrowdy 
missed  one  of  his  eyes.  Foi'tumitely  he  was  not  in  a  Ncry 
jtuu'nacious  mood,  lieinu"  surfeited  with  his  late  meal. 
The  num's  companions,  wlio  were  close  hehind,  raised  a 
shout,  and  tlie  hear  walked  away,  crushinu'  down  the 
^villows  in  his  leisurely  retreat. 

These  men  helonged  to  a  party  of  Mormons,  who,  out 
of  a  well-grounded  fear  of  the  other  emigrants,  had  post- 
poned leaving  th(^  settlements  until  all  the  rest  were  gone. 
On  account  of  this  delay,  they  did  not  reach  Foi't  Laianiie 
until  it  was  too  late  to  contimie  theii-  journey  to  Calil'ornia. 
Hearing  that  there  was  good  land  at  the  head  ol'  the 
Arkansas,  they  crossed  over  under  the  guidance  of  IJieh- 
ard,  and  were  now  pi'eparing  to  spend  tin;  winter  at  a 
spot  ahout  half  a  mile  from  the  Pneldo. 

When  we  took  leave  of  Kichai'd  it  was  lu-ar  sunset. 
Passing  out  of  the  gate,  we  could  look  down  the  littl(> 
valley  of  the  Arkansas:  a  heautiful  scene,  and  donhlv  so 
to  our  eyes,  so  long  accustomeil  to  deserts  and  nuanitains. 
Tall  Avoods  line(l  the  I'iver,  with  green  meadows  on  either 
liand  :  and  high  hluffs.  quietly  hasking  in  the  suidight. 
flanked  the  narrow  valley.  A  ^lexiean  on  horsehack 
was  driving  a  herd  of  cattle  towards  the  gate,  and  our 


Ki  J 


:J04 


TlIK    ()Ili;(i()N    TRAIL. 


'  '  I 


lit!', I 


i|'  ! 


I 


ill 


little  white  tent,  wliicli  tin-  iimmi  liinl  pitcluMJ  uiitlrr  a  tree 
ill  tlu!  iiiciidow,  iniide  !i  iilcasiiiii;  fciitnn'  in  tin;  scene. 
When  we  reiiclie(l  it,  we  huiinl  that  IJieliaid  had  sent  a 
^Mexican  to  luinn;  us  an  ahnndant  supply  of  ^vrcw  eoin 
and  \('L!'etal)Ies,  and  inviti!  iis  to  help  oiirsidvi's  to  what- 
ever we  wanted  from  the  fields  around  the  i'liehlo. 

The  iniialiitanis  were  in  daily  a|ipreliension  of  an  in- 
road from  moi'(!  Ibrmiilahle  consnmirs  than  we.  Kverv 
year,  at  the  tinu;  when  the;  corn  Iteiiins  to  ripen,  tlu? 
Arapahoes,  to  iIk^  nnmlier  of  several  thousands,  eoine 
and  encamp  aronnd  the  l*iiel»lo.  The  handfnl  of  white 
men,  who  ai'e  entirely  at  the  mercy  of  this  swaini  of 
Itarharians,  choose  to  make  a  merit  of  necessity;  they 
eome  forward  very  cordially,  shake  them  by  the  hand,  and 
tell  them  that  the  harvest  is  entirely  at  their  disposal. 
The  Arapahoes  take  them  at  their  word,  h(dj)  themselves 
most  lilierally,  and  nsnally  tnrn  their  horses  into  the 
eornlields  afterwards.  They  luive  the  foresight,  however, 
to  leave  enonuh  of  the  crops  untonehed  to  si  rve  as  an 
inducement  for  planting  the  fields  again  for  their  henelit 
in  the  next  sj.ring. 

The  linman  race  in  tliis  part  of  the  world  Is  separated 
into  three  divisions,  arranged  in  the  order  of  their  merits; 
white  men,  Indians,  and  ^Mexicans  ;  to  the  latter  of  whom 
the  honorable  title  of  "  whites  "  is  hy  no  means  conceded. 

In  spite  of  the  warm  snnset  of  that  evening  the  next 
moi'ning  was  a  dreary  and  cheerless  one.  It  raineil 
steadily,  clonds  resting  n|)on  the  very  tree-to})s.  We 
ci'ossed  the  river  to  visit  the  iSIormon  settlement.  As 
we  passed  throngh  the  water,  several  trapi)ers  on  horse- 
back entered  it  from  the  other  side.  Their  bnckskin 
frocks  were  soaked  throngh  by  the  rain,  and  ching  fast  to 
their  limbs  with  a  most  clannny  and  nncomfoi'table  look. 
The  water  was  trickling  down  their  faces,  and  dro})pin 


()• 


Tin:  rri;iii,o  and  hunts   roirr. 


:)().■) 


u  • 


rated 

rits: 

whom 

mKmI. 

next 

a  i  lied 

^Ve 

As 

lorsc- 

k  ski  11 

ast  to 

look. 

.)l)ing 


iVnin  the  ends  <»!'  their  rifles  and  iVmii  tlie  liji|ts  uhii'h 
each  eariietl  at  the  |ioiiiiuel  of  his  saddh'.  Horses  and  all, 
tliey  had  a  diseimMilate  anti  w (M'-heL^one  ap|»earaiiee,  w  lijeh 
we  conld  not  liel|(  laiiiihinu'  at,  luriictting  liow  ol'len  wi; 
ourselves  had  iteen  in  a  similar  pliuht. 

After  hair  an  hour's  ridini:',  we  saw  the  wlnte  wa,i:iiiis 
oC  the  Ah>rni(tns  drawn  up  anionii-  the  trees.  Axes  were 
soundintr.  trees  t'alliui:',  and  loLi-huts  risinu'  aloii";  the  edi^e 
nl'  lli(!  Woods  and  niion  the  adjoininii'  meadow.  iVs  wt; 
eimie  uj),  the  .Mormons  leO  their  work,  seated  themselves 
on  the  timl)er  around  us,  and  ItcLiaii  earnestly  to  discuss 
points  of  theoloLiv,  eom|iiain  of  the  ill-usa,'ie  they  had 
reeeivecl  from  the  "  (lentiles,"  and  sound  a  lamentation 
over  the  loss  of  tl)eir  iireat  temple  of  Xauvoo.  After 
remaininu'  with  them  an  hour  we  i-ode  liaid\  to  our  camp, 
happy  that  the  si'ttlements  had  heeii  deliviu'ed  from  the 
presence  of  such  hlind  ami  desperate  fanatics. 

On  the  foUowinu'  morning'  we  left  tlie  Piiehlo  for  Ijciit's 
Foi't.  The  conduct  of  l?aymond  had  lately  hemi  less 
salisl'actory  than  hefore,  and  we  Jiad  discharu'ed  liini  as 
s(»on  as  we  arrived  at  tlu'  formei'  place  ;  so  that  the  party, 
oursehcs  included,  was  now  reduced  to  four.  There  was 
some  uncertainty  as  to  our  future  course.  The  trail  he- 
tween  Bent's  Fort  and  the  settlements,  a  distance  eom- 
jjiited  at  six  hundred  miles,  was  at  this  time  in  a  dangerous 
stat(! ;  for  since  tlie  passau't'  of  (leiiei-al  Kearney's  army, 
great  nunii)ers  of  hostile  Indians,  chiefly  I'awnees  and 
Cainaiiches,  had  gathered  ahout  some  parts  of  it.  They 
l)Ccanio  soon  after  so  numerous  and  audacious,  that 
scarcely  a  single  jtaiiy.  however  large,  j)assed  Ix^tween 
the  ibrt  and  the  frontier  witliout  some  token  of  their 
hostility.  The  newspapers  of  the  time  sufficiently  dis- 
play this  state   of  tilings.     Many  men  were  killed,  and 

great  iiumliers  of  liorscs  and  mules  carried  off.     Not  long 

•JO 


1 1    •! 


..n 


:]()r. 


Tin:  our,(iON  tuail. 


rIiicc  I  iiK'l  with  !i  voiiiijj:  niiiii,  wlio,  diirinir  llic  iiiilimin, 
cmiic  IVom  Sjiiitii  l''('  ti»  liriit's  l''orl.  wlinr  lir  ruiiiid  ii 
jiiirty  of  scvriity  iiicii,  who  thoiiu'ht  tliciiisclNrs  loo  weak 
to  p)  down  to  the  sctllcmciits  iihtiir,  iiml  were  WMiliip/ 
there  lor  ii  rt'iiilorcriiu'Ml.  'rhoii^ili  this  cNci'ssivc  timidity 
j»r()Vrs  thi'  iuiioi'iilicc  (»!"  the  Mien,  it  lilliy  Jllso  evinee  the 
stato  of  ahiiMi  which  |H't'vaih'(|  in  the  conntry.  Wlien 
we  were  there   in   the    nmiith   ol"  Auiiust.  the  (hiii'j'er  hiid 


not  Ix'conie  so  trrciit 


hei'e  was  nothinu'  wiv  attiaetive 


in  the  iieijililiorhood.  We  snpposed.  moreover,  tiiat  we 
niiiiht  wait  there  liall'  the  winter  withiait  lindiii;!"  anv 
|>arty  to  ^o  down  with  us;  lor  Siihlettc  and  the  others 
wliom  we  had  iclied  npon  had.  as  liicliai'd  told  ns.  ahcady 
h'l't  IJent's  Fort.  Thus  lai-  on  our  ioui'ucv  Fortune  had 
kindly  liclViended  us.  We  resohcd  therefore  to  take  ad- 
vantaii'e  of  her  eracious  mood,  and  tiaistim:'  for  a  contiiui- 
nncc  of  her  finors,  to  set  out  with  Henry  and  neshuu'iei's, 
and  run  the  ;:auntlet  of  tlio  Indians  in  the  best  wav  we 
('((uld. 

]>i'nt's  Foi't  stands  on  tlie  I'iver.  ahout  sovonty-livc  miles 
heh)\v  the  I'uehlo.  At  on  of  the  third  day  we  arrived 
within  tliree  oi-  four  miles  of  it,  ]»iti'lied  our  tent  under  a 
tree,  Inim:'  our  lookinii-|Lilassos  against  its  tiimk.  and  liav- 
inu;  made  oiu-  primitive  toilet,  rode  towards  the  foit.  We 
soon  came  in  siulit  of  it,  for  it  is  visilde  from  a  eonsider- 
ahle  distance,  standinu"  witli  its  hiuh  (dav  walls  in  the 
midst  (d'  the  scondiint''  plains.  It  seemed  as  if  a  swarm 
of  locusts  had  invaded  the  counti'y.  The  iirass  for  miles 
around  was  cropped  (dose  hy  the  horses  of  (Jeneral  Kear- 
ney's soldiery.  When  we  came  to  tlie  fort,  we  found  that 
not  only  had  the  lujrses  eaten  uj)  the  grass,  hut  their 
owners  had  made  way  with  the  stores  of  the  little  trading 
]»ost ;  so  that  we  liad  great  ditliculty  in  })rocuring  the 
few  articles  which  we  required  for  our  homeward  joiu-ney. 


I  in;   rir.uix)  and  hiints   ioui- 


'MY 


iitunin, 
oiiiul  !l 
Ml  \vr;ik 

Nvuitiiiir 
iinidlty 

Wlin, 
tract  ivr 

tllilt     Wf 

in^  any 

i    otlltM'S 

already 
iiin'  liad 
takr  ad- 
coutinu- 
iliuiricrs, 
I  wav  we 

vc  miles 
;  arrived 
under  a 
and  liav- 
.d.      We 
I'oiisider- 
s   in   the 
a  swarm 
)V  miles 
al  Kear- 
nid  tliat 
n1    Iheir 
trading 
iring  the 
journey. 


w 


The  iiriny  was  ufoiic,  the  lile  and  liusljc  iiasscii  away,  and 
the  I'oi't  was  a  scene  of  dull  and  hi/.y  (rani|iiillit\ .  A  I'-w 
iuNalid  ollicci's  and  soldiers  sauntered  almnt  tin'  area. 
v.'hieli  was  (t|i|ii'('ssively  hot  ;  lor  the  ularimr  sun  was  rc- 
Ijeeted  down  Upon  it  iVoni  the  lii'ih  white  walls  around. 
The  |(l"o|ti'ietoi'S  were  ahsent.and  we  were  i'eeei\-ed  l»y  Mi'. 
Holt,  who  had  heen  left  in  eharire  of  tlie  I'ort .  lie  invited 
M.-i  to  dinnei-,  where,  to  our  admiration,  we  lound  a  t;d»le 
laid  with  a  white  cloth,  with  castors  in  the  midille.  and 
chairs  plaecd  around  it.  This  unwonted  rei)a>t  con- 
cliideil.  we   rode   hack  to  our  caniji. 

IJeic,  as  we  lay  sniokinu'  round  the  fire  after  snpner, 
we  saw  thronuh  the  dusk  three  men  approachimi'  I'rom  the 
direction  of  the  i'oi't.  They  rode  u|)  and  seated  theiu- 
selves  near  us  on  the  ^'round.  The  locemost  was  a  tall, 
well-lormed  man.  with  a  lace  and  mannei'  such  as  inspire 
coulidence  at  onei'.  lie  woi'e  a  hroad  hat  of  I'elt,  sloiich- 
inu'  and  tattered,  and  the  rest  of  his  attire  consisted  <•!"  a 
I'rock  and  IcLi'uins  of  huckskin,  ruhlnMl  with  the  yellow- 
clay  found  amonir  the  mountains.  At  the  heel  of  one  of 
his  moecasins  was  laudvled  a  Im^e  iron  s|tur,  with  a  rowel 
live  or  six  indies  in  diameter.  Jlis  horse,  which  stood 
(|uietly  lookin<i'  over  his  head,  hud  a  rude  Mexican  sadille, 
covered  with  a  sliati'tiy  hear-skin,  and  furnished  with  a 
|)air  of  wooden  stirrups  of  preposterous  size.  Th"  iie\t 
man  was  n  spriu'htly.  active  little  fellow.  al)out  Unc  fecf 
and  a  (piarter  hiuli,  hut  very  stronir  and  comjiact.  His 
face  was  swarthy  as  a  Mexican's,  and  covcreil  withaclose, 
curly,  hiack  In-ard.  An  old,  u'reasy,  calico  hanilkerehief 
was  tied  ro4ind  his  head,  and  his  close  huckskin  dress  was 
l>la(dcened  and  polished  hy  ii'rease  and  luird  service.  The 
last  who  came  up  was  a  hir<:'e,  stron<r  man,  dressed  in  the 
coarse  homespun  of  the  IVontiers.  Avho  dra<:'<i,'ed  his  long 
limhs  over  tlie  ground  as  if  he  were  too  lazy  for  the  effort. 


liii. 


308 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I 


w\ 


w^ 


rio  had  a  sleepy  gTay  eye,  a  retreating  cliin,  an  open 
month,  and  a  jirotnKhng  upper  lip,  whicli  gave  him  an 
air  of  ex(pusi1e  indolence  and  helplessness.  lie  was 
ai'nie<l  with  an  old  United  l^tates  yager,  which  redouht- 
ahle  weajion,  though  he  could  never  hit  Ids  mark  witli  it, 
lie  was  accustomed  to  cherish  as  the  very  sovereign  of 
firearms. 

The  first  two  men  ])elonged  to  a  party  who  had  just 
come  from  California,  with  a  large  band  of  horses,  which 
they  had  sold  at  Bent's  Fort.  Munroe,  the  taller  '•'.'  the 
two,  was  from  Iowa.  lie  was  an  excellent  fellow,  open, 
warm-hearted,  and  int(dligent.  Jim  (Uirney,  the  short 
man,  was  a  Boston  sailor,  who  had  come  in  a  trading  ves- 
sel to  (California,  and  taken  the  fancy  to  return  across  the 
continent.  The  journey  had  already  made  him  an  ex- 
pert "  mountain-man,"  and  hu  presented  the  extraordinary 
])henomenou  of  a  sailor  who  understood  how  to  manage  a 
horse.  The  third  of  our  visitors,  named  Ellis,  was  a 
Missourian,  wdio  had  come  out  with  a  party  of  Oivgou 
emigi-ants,  but  having  got  as  far  as  IJridger's  Fort,  he 
had  fallen  home-sick,  or  as  Jim  averred,  love-sick.  He 
tliought  proper  therefore  to  join  the  Califarnia  men,  and 
return  homeward  in  their  com])any. 

They  lunv  requested  that  they  might  unite  with  our 
party,  and  make  the  journey  to  the  settlements  in  com- 
pany with  us.  We  readily  assented,  for  we  liked  the 
ai)pearance  of  the  first  two  men,  and  were  very  glad  to 
gain  so  efTicient  a  reinforcement.  We  told  them  to 
meet  us  on  the  next  evening  at  a  sj)ot  on  the  river  side. 
al)out  six  miles  below  the  fort.  Having  smoked  a  ])ipe 
together,  our  new  allies  left  us,  and  we  lay  down  to 
sleep. 


".  I . 


y  m 


CHAPTER    XXII. 


TI;TK    llOUGK,    TIIK    VOLUNTEER, 

'TPIIE  next  morning,  having  uircctcd  Duslunricrs  to  rc- 
■*•  i)air  witli  his  cart  to  the  })hicc  of  lucoting,  \vc  came 
again  to  the  fort  to  make  some  arrangements  for  tlie 
jonrney.  After  com})leting  these  we  sat  down  under  a 
sort  of  porch,  to  smoke  with  some  Sliienne  Indians  wliom 
we  found  there.  In  a  few  minutes  we  saw  an  exti'aordi- 
nary  little  figure  approach  us  in  a  military  dress.  He 
had  a  small,  round  couutcnance,  garnished  about  the 
eyes  with  the  kind  of  wrinkles  commonly  known  as 
crow's  I'eet,  and  surmounted  by  an  abundant  cro{)  of  red 
curls,  with  a  little  cap  resting  on  the  to])  of  them.  Alto- 
gether, he  had  the  look  of  a  man  more  conversant  with 
mint-juleps  and  oyster  su))pers  than  with  the  hardsliips  of 
jirairio-service.  lie  came  up  to  us  and  entreated  that  we 
would  take  him  home  to  the  settlements,  saying  that  un- 
less he  went  with  us  he  should  have  to  stay  all  winter  at 
the  fort.  We  liked  our  petitioner's  ait|iearancc  so  little, 
that  we  excused  ourselves  from  complying  with  his  rc- 
(picst.  At  this  he  begged  us  so  hard  to  tal<e  jiity  on 
him,  looked  so  disconsolate,  and  told  so  lamentalile  a 
storv,  that  at  last  we  consented,  though  not  without  many 
misgivings. 

The  rugged  Anglo-Saxon  of  our  new  recruit's  real 
name  proved  utterly  unmanageable  on  the  lips  of  our 
French  attendants  ;  and   Henry  Chatillon,  after  various 


t!    -I 


3 10 


THE    OREGON     TRAIL. 


liii^ 


,( 


' '  '    I 

:  I 


ijl^^ 


nnfl 


1!  ; 


I  I 


i  1 


'     ! 


abortive  iitlcmpis  to  pronounce  it,  one  day  coolly  clii-ist- 
ened  him  Tete  Rouge,  in  iionoi'  of  his  red  curls,  lie  liad 
at  dilTercul  limes  heen  clerk  of  a  Mississij)]>i  steamltoat. 
and  agent  in  a  trading  estalilishnu.^nt  at  Nauvoo,  besides 
filling  vai'ious  other  ('ai)acities,  in  all  oi'  which  he  had 
seen  nnich  more  oi'  '••  life  "  than  was  g(jod  lor  him.  In 
the  spring,  thinking  that  a  sununer's  camj)aign  would  he 
an  agreeable  recreation,  he  had  joined  a  company  ol'  St. 
Louis  volunteers. 

'•  Thei-e  wei'e  three  of  us,"  said  Tete  Rouge,  '  me  and 
Bill  Stephens  and  John  Hopkins.  We  thought  we  would 
just  go  out  with  the  army,  and  when  we  had  con(iuered 
the  count  IT,  we  would  get  dischai'ged  and  take  our  ])ay, 
you  know,  and  go  dow^n  to  Mexico.  They  say  th'M-e's 
])lenty  (>f  fun  going  on  there.  Then  we  could  go  back  to 
New  Orleans  by  way  of  Vera  Cruz." 

]>ut  Tete  Rouge,  like  numy  a  stouter  volunteer,  had 
reckoned  without  his  host.  Fighting  ^lexicans  was  a  less 
amusing  occupation  than  he  had  sujjj^osed,  and  his  })lea- 
sure  tri[)  was  disagreeably  interrupted  by  brain  fever, 
which  attacked  him  when  about  half  way  to  Bent's  Fort. 
He  jolted  along  through  the  rest  of  the  journey  in  a 
bau'uage-wagon.  When  thev  came  to  the  fort  he  was 
taken  out  and  left  there,  with  the  rest  of  the  sick.  Bent's 
Fort  does  not  supply  the  best  accommodations  for  an 
invalid.  Tete  Rouge's  sick-chamber  was  a  little  nuul 
room,  where  he  and  a  comijanion,  attacked  by  the  same 
disease,  were  laid  together,  with  nothing  but  a  buffalo 
robe  between  them  .ind  the  ground.  The  assistant- 
surgeon's  deputy  visited  them  once  a  day  and  brought 
them  each  a  huge  dose  of  calomel,  the  only  medicine, 
according  to  his  surviving  victim,  with  which  he  was 
aeiiuainted. 

Tete  Rouge  woke  one  morning,  and  turning  to  his  com- 


Ifi  i       H 


TETE    ROUGE,    THE    VOLUNTEER. 


311 


US  com- 


})iinion  saw  his  eves  fixed  upon  the  beams  aliovo  witli  tlic 
glassy  stare  of  a  dead  man.  At  this  the  unforluiiate  vol- 
unteer lost  his  senses  outright.  In  spite  of  the  doetor, 
however,  he  eventually  recovered;  though  between  the 
brain  fever  and  the  calomel,  his  mind,  origiiuiUy  none  of 
the  strongest,  was  so  much  shaken  that  it  had  not  quite 
recovered  its  balance  when  we  came  to  the  fort.  \n 
spite  of  the  poor  fellow's  tragic  story,  there  was  some- 
thing so  ludicrous  in  his  ai)pearance,  ami  the  whimsical 
conti'asi  lictween  his  mditary  dress  and  his  most  unmili- 
tary  demeanor,  that  we  could  not  help  smiling  at  them. 
We  asked  him  if  he  had  a  gun.  He  said  they  had  taken 
it  from  him  during  his  illness,  and  he  had  not  seen  it 
since  ;  but  '•  jierhaps,"  he  observed,  looking  at  me  with  a 
beseeching  air,  *•  you  will  lend  me  one  of  your  big  pistols 
if  we  should  meet  with  any  hulians."  I  next  iiKpiired  if 
he  had  a  horse  ;  he  declared  he  had  a  magnificent  one, 
and  at  Shaw's  re(piost,  a  Mexican  led  him  in  Ibr  inspec- 
tion, ile  exhibited  the  outline  of  a  good  horse,  but  his 
eyes  were  sunk  in  the  sockets,  and  every  one  of  his  ribs 
could  l)e  counted.  There  were  certain  marks  too  ai)out 
his  shoulders,  which  could  lie  accounti'd  I'or  bv  the  cir- 
cumstancc,  that  during  Tete  Ronge's  illness,  his  compan- 
ions had  seized  upon  the  insulted  charger,  and  harnessed 
liim  to  a  cannon  along  with  the  draft  horses.  To  Tetc 
Rouge's  astonishment  we  reconnnended  him  by  all  nieans 
to  exchange  the  horse,  if  he  could,  for  a  mule.  iAjrtu- 
natcly  the  peo[)le  at  the  fort  were  so  anxious  to  get  rid 
of  him  that  thev  were  willing  to  make  some  sacrifice  to 
effect  the  object,  and  he  succeeded  in  getting  a  tolerable 
muk  in  exchange  for  the  br(jken-down  steed. 

A  man  soon  appeared  at  the  gate,  leading  in  the  nude 
by  a  cord,  which  he  plact'd  in  the  hands  of  Tete  Rouge, 
who.  being  somewhat  afraid  of  his    nevv  acipiisition,  tried 


il; 


m 

I 


;!  > 


tSJtl^ 


loHir 


li  1 1 


!  i 


li 


312 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


various  flattcrios  and  blandislimont.s  to  iiulncc  her  to 
come  Ibrward.  The  mule,  kiiowhig  that  she  was  ex[)ected 
to  advance,  st(>|)|)ed  short  in  conseciuence,  and  stood  last 
as  a  rock,  looking'  straitiht  forward  witli  innnovahle  com- 
])()sure.  ]>eing'  stimuhitcd  l)y  a  blow  from  behind,  she 
consented  to  move,  and  walked  nearly  to  the  other  side 
of  (lie  foi't  before  she  stopped  auain.  liearinu'  the  by- 
standers laug'h,  Tete  Uon<2,'e  ])lucke(l  up  spirit  and  tuu'ucd 
liai'd  at  the  rope.  I'lie  nude  jerked  backward,  spun  her- 
self round,  and  made  a  dash  for  the  tiate.  Tete  llouu'e. 
who  clunu'  nranfully  to  th(;  rope,  went  whiskiii.u'  throuuh 
the  air  for  a  few  rods,  when  he  let  uo  ami  stood  with 
Ills  mouth  o]ien,  starini;'  after  tin,'  mule,  which  galloped 
awavover  the  iirairie.  Slu;  was  soon  canu'ht  and  brouuht 
hack  by  a  Mexican,  who  mounted  a  horse  and  went  in 
pursuit  of  lier  with  his  lasso. 

Ilavinu'  thus  displayed  his  capacities  for  jirairie  travel- 
ling, Tete  Rouge  proceeded  to  supj)ly  himself  with  pi'ovi- 
sions  for  the  jo''rney.  and  with  this  view  apjilied  to  a 
quarter-master's  assistant  who  was  in  the  fort.  This 
official  hiid  a  face  as  sour  as  vinegar,  being  in  a  state  of 
chronic  indignation  because  he  luid  been  left  behind  the 
arniv.  lie  was  as  anxious  as  tlie  rest  to  tret  rid  of  Tete 
llouge.  So,  jtroducing  a  rusty  key,  he  oj)ened  a  low  door 
which  led  to  a  half  subterranean  apartment,  into  which 
the  two  disap.peai'ed  together.  After  some  time  they  came 
out  ngain.  Tete  llouge  greatly  embarrassed  by  a  nndti- 
])lieity  of  jtaper  ])arcels  containing  the  different  articles  of 
his  fortv  (lavs'  rations.  They  were  consiu'ned  to  the  care 
of  Deslauriers,  who  about  that  time  passed  by  with  the  cart 
on  his  way  to  the  appointed  place  of  meeting  with  Mun- 
roe  and  his  comitanions. 

We  next  urged  Tete  Rouge  to  provide  himself,  if  he 
could,  with  a  gun.     He  accordingly  made  earnest  appeals 


TETE  ROUGE,  THE  VOLUNTEER. 


.313 


to  tlio  clmrity  of  variou.s  persons  in  the  fort,  Itnt  totally 
witliout  success,  a  circumstance  wliicli  ditl  not  u'reatly 
distui'l)  ns,  since  in  tlie  event  of  a  skirmish,  lie  would  he 
more  apt  to  do  mischief  to  himself  or  his  friends  than  to 
the  enemy.  AVhen  all  these  arrangements  were  com- 
))leted,  Ave  saddled  our  horses,  and  were  preparing  to 
leave  the  fort,  when  looking  rcjund  we  discovered  that 
our  new  associate  was  in  fresh  trouble.  A  man  was  hold- 
ing the  mule  for  him  in  the  middle  of  the  lurt,  while  he 
tried  to  put  the  saddle  on  her  back,  hut  she  kept  stepjting 
sideways  and  moving  round  and  round  in  a  circle  until 
he  was  almost  in  despair.  It  re(piired  some  assistance 
before  all  his  difticulties  could  be  overcome.  At  length 
he  clambered  into  the  black  war-saddle  on  which  he  was 
to  have  carried  terror  into  the  ranks  of  the  Mexicans. 

"  Get  up,"  said  Tete  Rouge  ;  "  come  now,  go  along,  will 
vou. 

The  mule  walked  deliberately  forward  out  of  the  gate. 
Her  recent  conduct  had  inspired  him  with  so  nuu'h  aw(>, 
that  he  never  dared  to  touch  licr  with  his  whij).  We 
trotted  forward  toward  the  place  of  meeting,  but  before 
we  ii'id  gone  far,  we  sa\\"  that  Tet(.'  Rouge's  nude,  who 
perfectly  understood  her  rider,  had  stopped  and  was  quietly 
grazing  in  spite  of  his  jirotestations,  at  some  distance 
behind.  Po  getting  behind  him,  we  drove  him  and  the 
contumacious  nude  before  us,  until  we  could  see  through 
the  twilight  the  gleaming  of  a  distant  fire.  ]\Iunroe, 
Jim,  and  Ellis  were  lying  around  it  ;  their  saddles,  ]tacks, 
and  wea})ons  were  scattered  about,  and  their  horses 
jiicketed  near  them.  Deslauriers  was  there  too  with  oui- 
little  cart.  Another  fire  was  soon  l)la/.ing.  We  iii\  ite<l 
our  new  allies  to  take  a  cup  of  cotlee  with  us.  When 
both  the  others  had  gone  over  to  their  side  of  the  camp, 
Jim    Gurney   still  stood  by    the  blaze,  pufllng    hard    at 


!'■'.! 


ft 


r) 


11 


ri'i;    v)i{r.ii()N    ru  ui, 


his  liltlc  Itiack  |»i|>i',  :is  sliorl  uml  wciillicr  liralcH   as  Iiim- 

s.-ir. 

••  Well,"    'h'  said,   '*  Iktc    ai'c    ciulit  of  us  ;    we'll  call  il 


lor    llH'lll    t\\t>      iHIOllH'S, 


KM 


is   (»\  (•!■    \  tnivlcr,  and    llial 


new  man  ot"  \(>ui's,  won't  conid  lor  anv  thini:'.  We'll  ^icl 
llironuii  well  enough,  ne\ei-  feai'  lor  tl>al,  nnli'ss  llie  Cani- 
ani'lies  happen  In  i;et  foul  ol"  us." 


n 


(^11  ai"I'i<:k,   XXIII. 


\^ 


INDIAN      ALA  U.MS, 


JV\  Ix'^Mii  our  joiii'iicy  I'oi-  \\\v,  scllIciiKiiils  on  Ok; 
I  wciily-sc^'ciidi  of  August ,  iiiid  (•(•i-l;iiiily  ;i,  iiiofi; 
ni|;"iumiHiii  ciiAiilcadc  iic\cr  wa,s  seen  on  I  ho  hanks  of  I  ho 
llppci'  Afkiinsas.  Of  IIk;  hii-<i(!  and  Ihk!  hoisos  wilh 
vviiich  wo  had  loll  I  Ik;  IVonlioi-  in  I  Ik;  sprin;^',  not  oik;  ro- 
inainod  :  wo  had  snp|)liod  Ihoir  place  with  tho  roii^ih  hicod 
of  Iho'  prairi(^,  as  hai-dy  as  nndos  and  almost,  as  u;ily  ;  wo 
had  also  wilh  ns  a,  nnnihoi-  of  tho  latter  dote.stahh;  animals. 
In  spit  o  of  t  hoi  !•  strength  and  hardihood,  sevoial  of  tho  hand 
woi'o  alroiidy  worn  down  hy  liard  sei'\i(;o  and  liai'd  fare,  and 
as  none  of  them  woin^  shoil,  they  wer(!  fast,  liecomin^  foof- 
soro.  I']voiy  horse  and  nndi'  hail  a  r[)yi\  of  tui.^ted  hnll- 
liido  coiled  ahont.  his  neck,  which  hy  no  means  adijeii  to 
IJK!  hoanty  of  his  appoaraiii-o.  Our  saddles  anil  all  our 
('(|nipnionts  wore;  worn  and  hatlered,  and  our  wea|)ons  had 
bccomo  didl  and  rusty.  The  dress  of  tin;  rid<M's  oori-o- 
spondod  with  the  dila|)idute(l  fui'uitui'o  of  oui'  horses,  and 
ol"  Iho  wliolo  party  nono  mad(!  a  more  disreputahlc  ap- 
pearance than  my  IVi<'nd  and  I.  Shaw  had  lor  an  upp(;r 
garment  an  old  I'od  llannel  shirt,  llyinu'  open  in  IVont.and 
belted  around  him  like  a  frock  ;  whih;  1,  in  ahsence  ol" 
other  clothinu',  was  atiired  in  a  time-worn  suit  oi"  buck- 
skin. 


'O' 


Thus,  hap})y  and  cai'clcss  as  so  many  beti'ii'ars,  wc  erei)t 
slowly  from  day  to  day  along  the  monotonous  banks  of 


i  ( 


i  I 


'  I     i 

M  1 

i    I 


310 


Tin;     OIIEGON     TIIAII,. 


the  Ai'kaiisas.  Tetu  Roiiu'o  gave  constant  trou))lc,  for  lio 
could  lu'vei'  catch  his  mule,  saddle  hci-,  or  indeed  do  any 
thing  (dsc  wiihoitt  assistance.  Every  day  he  had  some 
new  ailnienl,  real  or  iniagiiuiry.  to  complain  of.  At  one 
moment  he  would  be  woe-hegone  and  disconsolate,  and  at 
tlic  U"^  t  he  would  be  visited  with  a  violent  flow  of  spii'its, 
to  whieh  he  could  only  give  vent  by  incessant  laugliing, 
whistling,  and  telling  stories.  When  other  resources 
Tailed,  we  used  to  anuise  ourselves  by  tormenting  him;  a 
fair  compensation  for  the  trouble  he  cost  us.  Tete  Rouge 
rather  enjoyed  being  laughed  at,  for  he  was;  an  odd  coni- 
})ound  of  weakness,  eccentricity,  and  good-nature.  He 
made  a  (igure  worthy  of  a  painter  as  he  paced  along  be- 
fore us,  ))erched  on  the  back  of  his  nude,  and  enveloj»ed 
in  a  huge  bul'iido-i'obo  coat,  which  some  charitable  ])erson 
had  given  Inm  at  the  fort.  '  This  extraordinary  garment, 
which  would  have  contained  two  men  o[  his  size,  he  chose, 
for  some  reason  best  known  to  himself,  to  wear  inside  out, 
and  he  never  took  it  olf,  even  in  the  hottest  weather.  It 
■was  fluttering  all  over  with  seams  and  tatters,  and  the 
hide  was  so  ohl  and  rotten  that  it  broke  out  every  day  in 
a  new  jdace.  Just  at  the  top  of  it  a  large  pile  of  red  curls 
was  visible,  with  his  little  cap  set  jauntily  upon  one  side, 
to  give  him  a  military  air.  His  scat  in  the  saddle  was 
no  less  remarkable  than  his  ])erson  and  Cfjnipment.  H^ 
pressed  one  leg  close  against  his  mule's  side,  and  thrust 
the  other  out  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  His 
trousers  were  decorated  with  a  military  I'cd  stripe,  of 
which  he  was  extremely  vain  ;  but  licing  much  too  short, 
the  whole  length  of  his  l)oots  was  usually  visible  below 
them.  His  blanket,  loosely  rolled  up  into  a  large  bundle, 
dangled  at  the  back  of  his  saddle,  where  he  carried  it  tied 
with  a  string.  Four  or  five  times  a  day  it  would  fall  to 
the  ground.     Every  few  minutes  he  would  diop  his  })ipc. 


irsn 


INDIAN     AI-AIIMS. 


:U1 


liis  knife,  his  Hint  iiml  slccl,  or  a  jtii'ce  of  tohacco,  iiml 
scj'aiuMc  down  lo  pick  tliciii  up.  lii  doiiit)-  this  Ik;  would 
confri\('  <o  ud  in  cwrvlnxlv's  wav  ;  and  as  luosi  of  llu; 
party  were  liy  no  means  roniacUahU;  i'or  a  fastidious  clioioo 
of  lanji'uau'o,  a  stoi'iu  of  anathemas  v  ■  uld  !)(>  showered 
upon  him,  half  in  earnest  and  half  in  jest,  until  Tele 
Uouu'e  would  doelare  that  there  was  no  eond'ort  in  life, 
and   that    he   nevei'  saw   such   fellows   Itefoi'e. 

Oidy  a  day  or  two  after  leavinu'  IJent's  Fort,  Henry 
Chatillon  rode  forward  to  hunt,  and  took  l']llis  alon|j^  with 
liim.  After  they  hail  heen  some  time  aliseid  we  saw  them 
coming  down  the  hill,  driving  three  dragoon-horses,  which 
had  escaped  from  their  owneis  on  the  martdi,  or  perhaps 
had  given  out  and  heen  ahandoned.  One  of  them  was  in 
toleraljle  condition,  hut  the  others  were  nuu-h  emaciateil 
and  severely  hitten  hy  the  wolves.  Reduced  as  they  were, 
wc  carried  two  of  them  to  the  settlements,  and  Henry 
exchanged  the  third  with  the  Arapahoes  for  an  excellent 
mule. 

On  the  day  after,  when  we  had  stopped  to  rest  at  noon, 
a  long  train  of  Santa  Fe  wagons  came  up  and  trailed 
slowly  jtast  us  in  tln-ir  pictures<pie  procession.  They  he- 
longed  to  a  trader  name(l  .AragolTui,  whose  brother,  with 

numlter  of  other  men,  came  and  sat  down  with  us  on 
the  grass.  The  news  they  brought  was  not  of  the 
most  jdensing  omplexion.  According  to  their  accounts, 
the  trail  below  was  in  a  very  dangerous  state.  Th(>y  had 
repeatedly  detected  Indians  })rowling  at  night  around  their 
camps;  and  the  large  party  which  had  left  Bent's  Fort  a 
few  weeks  before  us  had  been  attacked,  and  a  man  named 
Swan,  from  Massachusetts,  had  lieen  kille(l.  His  com- 
])anions  had  bui'ied  the  body.;  ))ut  when  Magofiin  found 
his  grave,  which  was  near  a  place  called  ••  The  Caches," 
the  Indians  had  dug  np  and  scalped  him,  and  the  wolves 


tv 


I  I 


318 


TIIK    ()IlF,(i()N    TWA  1 1, 


I  I 


,. 


!  \  ■  I 


i  I  '  I  ■ 


iHi   l^i 


,11 
11. 


n  ! 


liiid  sli()ck'mi:ly  iniiiiu:lo(l  his  rcniniiis.  As  .'ui  oll'sol  fo 
tliis  iiitcllip'iKM',  they  >r;\vr  iis  llir  wclc  mic  iiilormiitioii 
(li;il  the  liufliilo  wci'c  iiuincrous  at  a  few  (la\s'  ioiinicv 
Im'Iow. 

Oil  I  he  ii(>xl  aftci'iiooM,  as  we  iu<»\(m1  aloiiir  llic  hank  of 
Ihc  I'ivci',  we  saw  the  white  lops  of  wa^'oiis  ou  (he;  horizon. 
It  was  sonic  liniirs  hdorc  we  nict  tluMii,  wIilmi  (hey  iJi-ovud 
t<»  he  a  train  (»!'  rlumsy  ox-wa.u'ons,  qnilc  dirrcicnt  IVoni 
th(^  I'akish  vcliiclcs  of  tlic  Santa  lA''  traders,  and  loaded 
witli  ^'ovcrnnient  stoi'es  Tor  the  troops.  They  all  st()|»|)ed, 
and  tlie  drivers  <rathere(l  around  us  in  a  crowd.  Many 
of  them  Avere  mere  hoys,  I'resh  f'',iii  the  ploiiiih.     Jn  re- 

thev  eonlirnied   all  that  the 


^1 


X'et  to  tlie  state  of  the  tr 


Santa  Fe  men  ha<l  told  us.  In  passinu"  hetween  tlic  Paw- 
nee Fork  and  tlie  Caidies,  their  sentinels  ha<l  (ired  every 
ni'jlit  at  I'eal  or  iinaLi'inary  Indians.  They  said  also  that 
Fwinu',  a  yonni!;  Kentuekian  in  the  party  tliat  had  g'one 
down  hefore  ns,  had  shot  an  Indian  who  was  prowlinji'  at 
eviMiing-  about  the  camp.  Some  of  them  advised  ns  to 
turn  hack,  and  others  to  hasten  forward  as  last  as  we 
could  ;  hut  they  all  seemed  in  such  a  state  of  feverish 
anxiety,  and  so  little  capable  of  cool  jnd<>inent,  that  wo 
attached  sliuht  weiuht  to  what  thev  said,  'i'hev  next  jiavc 
us  a  more  delinite  piece  of  iutelliii'enee :  a  larg'o  villau'cof 
Arai)ahoes  was  encamped  on  the  river  below.  They  rej> 
resented  them  to  be  Iriendly  :  but  some  distinction  was  to 
he  made  hetween  a  party  of  thirty  men,  travelling'  with 
oxen,  which  are  of  no  value  in  an  Indian's  eyes,  and  a 
mere  handful  like  ourselves,  with  a  tempting  band  of 
mules  and  horses. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  looking  along 
the  horizon  before  us,  we  saw  that  at  one  jioint  it  was 
faintly  marked  with  ]iale  indentations,  like  the  teeth  of  a 
saw.     The  distant  lodges  of  the  Arapahoes,  rising   be- 


Mli 


INDIAN      AT,  ARMS. 


8U) 


twccn  us  nml  the  sky,  cniiscd  this  siunuliir  ii|i|t('iirinu*('. 
It  Wiiiitcil  still  t  \v(»  nr  three  l\()iirs  of  sunset  when  weejinie 
(>|)|)(»sit('  ti)eir  ciunp.  There  were  lull  two  liundred  lixjiics 
stMndiiei  in   the   midst  ol'  a  u'rnssv   nieMilow  nt    some  dis- 


tiince  lievttud   ihe  riNcr,  wli 


ile  I 


or   it  mile  iironnd  on  Imlh 


liiiiiks  of  the  Arkiinsiis  were  sentterod  some  lil'leeii  inm- 
(h'od  horses  ;ind  mules,  <ira/,inii'  tou'ether  in  iiands,  oi- 
wandei'inu'  simply  al)out  the  jirairie.  The  whole  were  visi- 
hle  at  once,  for  the  vast  expanse  was  indiroken  hy  hills, 
and  there  was  U(»t  a  tree  or  a  husli  to  intercept  tlie  \  iew. 

l\v\v  and  there  walked  an  Indian,  enuap'(l  in  watehin*^ 
the  horses.  No  sooner  did  we  see  them  than  'iV-te  Houu'o 
hcfrged  Deslauriers  to  stop  the  cart  and  luind  him  his 
military  jacket,  whieli  was  stowed  away  there.  In  this  he 
invested  himself,  havin,<r  for  once  laid  the  old  huH'alo-eoat 
aside,  assumed  a  martial  posture  in  the  saddle,  set  his 
cap  over  his  left  eye  with  an  air  of  deliance,  and  earn(>stly 
entreated  that  somel)ody  would  lend  him  a  uun  oi-  a 
pistol  only  for  half  an  hour.  Deing'  called  ujion  to  explain 
these  proceedings,  Tetc  Rouge  ohserved,  that  he  knew 
from  experience  what  effect  the  ))i*esence  of  a  military 
man  in  his  uniform  always  has  upon  the  mind  of  an 
Indian,  and  he  thought  the  Arapahoes  ought  to  know  that 
there  was  a  soldier  in  the  party. 

^Meeting  Arajiahoes  here  on  the  Arkansas  was  a  vei-y 
diftercnt  thing  fro:ii  meeting  the  same  Indians  among 
their  native  mountidns.  There  was  another  circumstance 
in  our  favor.  (leneral  Kearney  had  seen  them  a  few 
weeks  hefoi'e,  as  he  came  up  the  river  with  his  ai'my.and, 
rcncwiuir  his  threats  of  the  previous  vear.  he  told  them 
that  if  they  ever  again  touched  the  hair  of  a  white  man's 
head  he  would  exterminate  their  nation.  This  jilaeed 
them  for  the  time  in  an  admirable  frame  of  mind,  and 
the  effect  of  his  menaces   had  not   yet  disappeared.     I 


P  a 


\i> 


lit    I 


I!  i 


!i 


'i 


:i'20 


TlIK    OKLIGON    THAU,. 


wlslicil  loscctlic  villiiuc  iiiid  its  iiiliiiliilniils.  We  llioiiulit 
il  hIh<»  <»iir  l»*'>t  |M>licy  to  visit  tlicm  ()|M'iily,  ns  il'  uiisiis- 
jiiridiis  (if  iiiiv  liostilt!  (Icsitiii  ;  uiid  Slmw  Mini  1,  with 
Ilciirv  ('liatilloii,  |)rc'|)ar('(l  to  cross  tlic  lisci-.  T\\{\  ivsf 
of  the  party  iiicanwhih'  moved  forward  as  last  as  they 
conld,  ill  (trdcrto  "jt't  as  far  as  possihlc  from  oiii"  suspicions 
ii(M;iid)ors  hclorc  iiiuld  cainc  on. 

Tlir  Arkaiisiis  at  tliis  point,  and  for  several  Inindrnl 
miles  hclow.  is  nothing;'  l)ut  a  liroad  sand-hcd,  over  wliifh 
glide  a  lew  sciuity  threads  of  water,  now  and  then  expand- 
iiii;  into  wide  shallows.  At  several  places,  dnrinu'  the 
autumn,  tiie  water  sinks  into  the  sand  and  disappears 
altop'ther.  At  this  season,  were  it  not  lor  the  inimei'ous 
quicksands,  the  river  miuht  he  I'orded  almost  iinywher(; 
without  ditlu'idty,  thonuh  its  ehannel  is  ol'len  a  (piarter 
of  a  mile  wide.  Our  horses  jumped  down  the  hnnk.  and 
wadinu'   thronuh  the  water,  or  gallopinji;  I'reely  over  the 


hard 


snnd-iieds,  soon 


reached  the  other  side.      Here,  ns 


we  wei'e  pushing  thi'ough  the  tall  gniss,  we  saw  several 
Indians  not  far  off;  one  of  Ihem  waite(l  until  we  came  up, 
and  stood  for  some  moments  in  perfect  silence  Itefore  us, 
looking  at  us  askance  with  his  little  siiidu'-like  vyoi^. 
lieuiy  explained  liy  signs  what  we  wanted,  iind  the  Indian, 
gathering  his  liulTalo-rohc  ahout  his  sliouldei's,  led  the  way 
towards  the  village  without  sj)eaking  a  word. 

The  language  of  the  Arajiahoes  is  so  dilTicult,  and  its 
])ronunciation  so  harsh  and  guttural,  that  no  white  man, 
it  is  said,  has  ever  liecn  al>l(j  to  master  it.  Kven  Max- 
well, the  trader  who  has  heen  most  among  them,  is  ccjm- 
])elled  to  I'esort  to  the  curious  sign-language  conunon  to 
most  of  the  prairie  trihes.  With  this  sign-language  IJenry 
Chatillon  was  perfectly  acquainted. 

Approaching  the  village,  we  found  the  ground  strewn 
with  piles  of  waste  buffalo-meat  in  incredible  quantities. 


INDFAN     AT.MtMS. 


:]'J1 


'I'lic  ludncs  were  pilclli'il  ill  !l  circli'.  Tlicy  ir^fmlilrd 
tllusc  (if  llic  I  >;ilir(»l;ili  ill  CMTy  lliiliL:'  lilll  clc;!  nlinos. 
I'lissilii:'  licturcli  twn  III"  llii'iii,  wr  ciitcird  tlic  <^\('u\ 
cii'i'iiliii'  ;iri';i  <>t'  iln'  riimit,  iiml  iiisliiiilly  liuiidrcils  uf 
liidiiiiis.  iiii'ii.  Wdiiirii,  iiiid  (diildiTM,  cmiim'  il)>ckii)<>-  oul 
ttl"  tlit'ii'  liJiliitiiliuiis  to  look  id  lis  :  id  llic  miiiic  time,  tlii> 
ditu's  iill  ;ii'(»iiiiil  tli<'  sillii'jc  set  ti|)  ;i  dist'iirdiml  Imyiii'j'. 
()iir  Iiidiiiii  'jiiidc  wiilkcd  towards  llic  loili^c  of  tin"  cliicl". 
Here  \vi'  disin(iiiiit('(l  :  iind  iMiisciiiii'j'  llx-  lniil-ni|irs  iVom 
our  horses'  iiccks.  held  llirm  Inst  'is  we  siit  down  IicIoit 
llic  eld  niiirc.  with  our  rides  hiid  jhtoss  our  hips.  'I'hc 
chiel' ciiiiK'  out  mid  shook  us  liy  the  hiiml.  Me  was  a 
lucaii-hMikiiiii'  IrMow.  very  tall,  thiii-visajuicd,  :iiid  sinewy, 
like  tlic  '  t  ol'  the  nation,  and  with  scarcely  a,  vesti^jc  ot" 
(dolhiui:'.  We  had  not  heeii  seated  a  jnoinent  het'orc  h 
iuulliln<lc  of  Indians  came  crowilint:'  around  its  iVoin  every 
]>arl  of  the  \  illauc  and  we  were  shut  in  hy  a  dense  aall 
of  sava'j'e  faces.  Some  of  our  \i>itors  croiudied  around  us 
on  tlie  u'round  ;  ollicrs  sal  Itchind  them  :  others,  stoop- 
inu:,  looked  over  their  heads:  while  many  more  stood 
behiinl,  ]ieei'in,u'  o\-cr  each  other's  shoulders,  to  p't  a 
view  of  us.      1  lookctl  in  \ain  amont:'  this  throicj'  of  laces 


to.d 


iscover  one  manly  or  u'enei'oiis  expression  :   all  were 


wollish,  sinister,  and  maliiinant,  and  their  complexions, 
as  well  !)s  their  leatui-es,  unlike  those  of  the    Hahcotah, 


\\ 


ere  excecdinuiv  had.      The  clii 


wlio  sa 


t    (d 


ose   1( 


)    !lie 


eidrance.  called  to  a  Sijiiaw  within  the  lo(|<j('.  who  soon 
came  out  and  placed  ii  wooden  howl  ol"  meat  lid'ore  us. 
'J'o  our  surprise,  however,  no  pipe  was  ofli'red.  lia\iiie" 
tasted  of  the  meat  as  a  matter  of  lorm,  1  lieuan  to  open 
a  hnndle  of  presents, —  tohacco,  knives,  vermilion,  and 
other  articles  which  1  had  hrouuht  with  me.  At  this 
there  was  a  ^rin  on  every  eonntenunce  in  the  i'apa<'i()us 
crowd;  their  eyes  began  to  glitter,  and  long  thin  arms 

21 


i  I 


M:       !:!  ; 


i^ji 


illiiii^ 


3-?'2 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


were  eagerly  stretclied  towjmls  us  on  all  sides  to  receive 
the  gil'ls. 

The  Ai'apaliocs  set  great  value  upon  their  shields, 
which  they  transmit  carelully  I'roni  I'alher  to  s(jn.  I 
wished  lo  get  (UK!  of  them  ;  and  displaying  a  large  })ieco 
ol"  scarlet  clotli,  together  with  some  tohacco  and  a  knil'e, 
1  olfi.'red  them  to  any  one  who  would  bring  me  what  1 
wanted.  After  some  delay  a  tolerahle  shield  was  pro- 
duce(h  They  were  very  anxious  to  know  what  we  meant 
to  do  with  it,  and  Henry  told  them  that  we  were  going  to 
fight  their  enemies  the  I'awnees.  This  instantly  pro- 
duced a  visible  imjjression  in  om  favor,  which  was  in- 
creased !)>'  tie  distribution  (/f  the  presents.  Amontr 
these  was  a  large  [)aper  of  awls,  a  gift  ap})ropriate  to  the 
women  ;  and  as  we  were  anxious  to  see  the  beauties  of 
the  Ara]iahoe  village,  Henry  reipiested  that  they  might 
l)e  called  to  receive  them.  A  warrior  gave  a  shout,  as  if 
he  were  calling  a  j»a.ck  of  dogs  t(.)gether.  'Die  squaws, 
young  and  old,  hags  of  eighty  and  girls  of  sixteen,  came 
runnimi:  with  sercams  and  lauu'hter  out  of  the  lodu'cs; 
and  as  the  men  gave  way  for  them,  they  gathered  round 
us  anil  stretclHMJ  out  their  arms,  grinning  with  delight, 
their  native  ugliness  considerably  enhanced  by  the  ex- 
citement of  the  moment. 

^Mounting  our  horses,  which  during  the  whole  inter- 
view we  had  held  close  to  us,  we  prei)ared  to  leave  the 
Arai)ahoes.  The  crowd  fell  back  on  each  side,  and  stood 
looking  on.  When  we  were  half  across  the  camp  an 
idea  occurred  to  us.  The  Pawnees  were  ])robal)ly  in  the 
neighl)orliood  of  the  Caches  ;  we  might  tell  the  Arapa- 
hoes  of  this,  and  instigate  them  to  send  down  a  war-party 
and  cu^^  them  off,  while  we  oui'selves  could  remain  ])ehind 
for  a  while  and  hunt  the  bulfalo.  At  first  thought,  this 
plan  of  setting  our  enemies  to  destroy  one  another  seemed 


INDIAN     ALARMS, 


323 


)  receive 


to  us  a  inastei'-j)io<'o  of  jiolicy  ;  Imt  we  iinnieduitely  rccol- 
leelcd  tluit  slioiikl  we  meet  the  Arjijiaiioe  warriors  on  the 
rivci-  l)('h)w.  thcv  iuiulil  prove  (luitc  as  dangerous  as  the 
i*{;wne('s  themselves.  So  rejecting  our  phin  as  soon  as  it 
jresonled  i1s(.'lt',  we  passed  out  of  the  viUage  on  the 
I'arthei'  si(h'.     We  uru'cd  our  liorses  rapidlv  ihrousi'li  the 


tall 


li'rass.  w 


lii(di   rose  to   their  necks.     Several  Indian^ 


were  walking  through  it  at  a  distance,  their  heads  just 
visihle  aliove  its  waving  surface.  It  hore  a  kind  of  seed, 
as  sw(>et  and  nutritious  as  oats;  and  our  hungry  horses, 
in  S|)ite  of  whip  and  I'cin,  could  not  ri^sist  tlie  temptation 
of  snatching  at  this  unwonteil  luxury  as  we  pa,ssed  along. 
When  ahout  a  mile  from  the  village,  1  turned  and  looked 
hack  over  the  undulating  ocean  of  grass.  The  sun  was 
just  set ;  the  western  sky  was  all  in  a  glow,  and  shar|)ly 
defined  against  it,  on  the  extreme  verge  of  the  plain, 
stood  the  clustered  lodges  of  the  Arajtahoe  canij). 

Reaclii'ig  the  hank  of  the  river,  we  followed  it  for 
some  distance  farther,  until  we  discerned  through  the 
twilight  the  white  covering  of  our  little  cart  on  the  oppo- 
site hank.  When  we  reachetl  it  we  found  a  considerahle 
nmnher  of  Indians  there  hefore  us.  Four  or  five  of  them 
were  seated  in  a  row  upon  the  ground,  looking  like  so 

Tete  Rouire,  in  his  uniform. 


'n'-i 


many  hali-starved  vultures, 
was  holdinii'  a  close  colloiiuv  with  another  hv  the  side  of 
the  cart.  Finding  his  signs  and  gesticulatii)n  of  no  avail, 
iie  tried  to  make  the  Indian  understand  him  l>y  repeating 
English  \>nrds  veiy  loudly  and  distinctly  again  and  again. 
The  Indian  sat  with  his  eye  fixed  steadily  upon  him,  and 
in  spite  of  the  rigid  immol)ility  of  his  features,  it  was 
clear  at  a  glance  that  he  jierfectly  mulerstood  and  despised 
his  military  companion.  Tlic  exhihition  was  more  amus- 
ing than  }iolitic,  and  Tete  Rouge  was  directed  to  linish 


82i 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


M<i 


<>■ 


Avlial  ho  luul  \()  s;iy  ns  soon  as  possildc.  Tims  rebukod. 
lie  (TCI)!  miller  llu- cart  and  sal  down  lliorc  ;  Ilcniy  Clia- 
iiilon  stooped  to  look  at  liini  in  his  retirement,  and  rc- 
inarkeil  in  his  iiniet  luannei-  that  an  Indian  would  kill  ten 
such  men  and  huiLiii  all  the  time. 

One  hy  one  onr  \isitors  arose  and  stalked  away.  As 
the  darkness  thickene(l  ve  wei-e  sainted  hy  dismal  sounds. 
Tiie  wolves  are  ineredilily  munerous  in  this  {)art  of  \\\o 
country,  and  the  olliil  ai'omid  the  Arapahoe  camp  had 
drawn  sneh  nndtitudes  of  them  toiiCther  thaf  several 
liundreds  were  howlin^u"  in  concert  in  our  immodiute 
neitihhorliood.  ^J'here  was  an  island  in  the  rivei",  or 
rather  an  oasis  in  tlu;  midst  of  the  sands,  at  ahont  the 
distance    of    a    unn-shot,    and    here    thev    seemed    to    he 


fathered  in  the  u'reatest  numher: 


A  1 


lorrii) 


le  (1 


iscoru  o 


ow    mourn 


(ul 


Avai 


linti^ 


m 


int!'lcd    with   ferocious  howh 


arose  from  it   incessantly  for  sevei'al  hours  after  sunset. 
We  could   distinctlv  se(.>   the    wolves  I'unninu"  ahout    the 


th 


]tran'ie  witiim  a  lew  rods  oi  our  lire,  or  hountimu'  ovei'  llio 
sand-heds  of  the  river  and  splashing  throusrh  the  water. 
'J'here  was  not  the  sliiihtcst  (lan«rer  from  them,  for  they 
are  the  li'i'eatest  cowards  on  the  pi'airic. 

In  respect  to  the  human  wolves  in  our  neiiLihltorhood. 


AV 


"e   felt   much   less  at    our   ease 


Tl 


lar  nm 


ht 


each    uian 


spread  liis  liufi'alo-rol)e  ujion  the  ji'i-ound  with  his  loaded 
rifle  laid  at  his  side  or  elas])ed  in  his  arms.  Our  horses 
were  )>ieketed  so  close  around  us  that  one  of  themj-e- 
peatedly  ste|»ped  over  me  as  1  lay.  We  were  not  in  the 
hal)it  of  placing'  a  iinard.  hut  every  man  was  anxious  and 
wat(diful  :  there  was  little  sound  sleepiuu'  in  cam]),  and 
some  one  of  the  party  was  on  his  feet  duriuLi'  the  greater 
])art  of  the  nijiht.  For  myself,  1  lay  altei'uately  waking 
and  dozing  until  midnight.     Tctc   Rouge  was   reposing 


INDIAN    ALARMS. 


3-i5 


close  to  lilt'   liver  l)ank,  niul  iibout  this  time,  when  hall' 


tisleep  and  ha 


If 


aw  a 


ke,  1  was  cunscious  that  he  shitted 


liis  position  and  erejit  on  all-lours  under  the  cart,  ^^oou 
after  1  fell  into  a  sound  sleep,  from  whieh  1  was  roused 
by  a  hand  shaking'  me  l)y  the  shoulder.  Lookin<i;  up,  1 
saw  Tete  Hoiiu'e  stooping  over  me  with  a  [)alc  face  and 
dilat 


(Ml  eves. 


\v 


lat 


matter 


sai( 


1  I, 


Tete  Roiiu'e  detdared  that  as  he  lay  on  the  river  hunk, 
somethinu'  eauulit  his  eve  which  excited  ids  susnieioiis. 
So  creepinti,'  under  the  cart  lor  sal'cty's  sake,  lie  sat  there 
ami  watehed,  when  ho  saw  two  Indians,  wrapjx'd  in  white 
robes,  eieep  up  the  bank,  seize  upon  two  horses  and  lead 
them  oiY.  He  looked  so  I'righteiH.'d  and  told  his  story  in 
sueh  a  diseoniieeted  manner  that  i  diil  not  believe  him, 
and  was  unwilling  to  alarm  the  jiarty.  Still  it  might  be 
true,  and  in  that  case  the  matter  I'eipiired  instant  atten- 
tion. So  directing  Tett;  Roiig(,'  to  show  me  whieh  way 
the  Indians  had  gone,  i  took  my  ride,  in  obedienee  to  a 
thoughtless  impulse,  and  left  the  camp.  1  followed  the 
I'iver  bank  for  two  or  three  hundred   vards,  listening  and 


lool 


ciiiji'  anxiouslv  on  everv  side. 


In  tl 


u>  dark   prairie  on 


the  right  1  could  discern  nothing  to  excite  alarm  ;  and  in 
the  dusky  be(l  of  the  river,  a  wolf  was  bounding  along 
in  a  manner  which  no  Indian  could  imitate.  1  returned 
to  the   camp,  and  when  within   sight    of  it.  saw  that  the 


wdiol 


e  party  was  aronset 


diaw  called  out  to  me  that,  ho 


ha<l  counted  the  horses,  and  that  cNcry  one  of  tlicin 
was  in  his  place.  Tele  Ixouge  being  examiiuMl  as  to 
what  he  had  seen,  only  re])eate(l  his  former  story 
with  many  asseverations,  and  insisted  that  two  horses 
were  certainly  carried  off.  At  this  Jim  (Juruey  declared 
that  he  was  cra/.y  ;  Tete   Rouge   indignantly  denied  the 


:lk 


H 


IS'f 


iip 


1'! 


326 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


cliarg'c,  on  wliich  Jiin  appealed  to  us.  As  we  declined  to 
give  our  Judgment  on  so  delicate  a  matler,  the  disjmte 
grew  hot  between  Tete  Rouge  and  liis  accuser,  until  he 
was  directed  to  go  to  bed  and  not  alarm  the  camp  again 
if  he  saw  the  whole  Arujmhoe  village  coming. 


liir 


!^ 


V 


>■!(■ 

i     I 


.'I 


111 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 


THE   CHASE. 


^  I  ^HE  country  before  us  was  now  tlironged  with  l)ulTalo, 
■*-  and  a  sketch  of  the  manner  of  hunting  them  will 
not  be  out  ol"  pUice.  There  are  two  methods  commonly 
practised,  "running"  and  "approaching."  The  chase 
on  horsel>ack,  wliich  goes  by  the  name  of  "  running,"  is 
the  more  violent  and  dashing  mode  of  the  two,  that  is  to 
say,  when  the  buffalo  arc  in  one  of  their  wild  nKJods  ;  for 
otherwise  it  is  tame  enough.  A  practised  and  skilful 
lumter,  well  mounted,  will  sometimes  kill  live  or  six  cows 
in  a  sinule  chase,  loading  liis  gun  auain  and  auain  as  his 
liorse  rushes  through  the  tunudt.  In  attacking  a  small 
band  of  buffalo,  or  in  separating  a  single  animal  from  the 
herd  and  assailing  it  apart  from  the  rest,  there  is  less 
excitement  and  less  danger.  In  fact,  the  animals  are  at 
times  so  stu[)id  and  lethargic  that  there  is  little  sport  in 
killing  them.  AVith  a  bold  and  well-trained  horse  the 
hunter  may  ride  so  close  to  the  buffido  that  as  they  galloj) 
side  by  side  he  may  touch  him  with  his  hand  ;  nor  is  there 
nnicli  danger  in  this  as  long  as  the  buffalo's  strength  and 
breath  continue  unal)ated ;  )>ut  when  he-  becomes  tired 
and  can  no  longer  run  with  ease,  when  his  tonuue  lolls 
out  and  the  foam  flics  from  his  jaws,  then  the  hunter  had 
better  keep  a  more  respectful  distance;  the  distressed 
brute  may  turn  upim  him  at  any  instant;  and  esjiecially 
at  the  moment  when  he  fires  his  gun.     The  horse  then 


I 


:)! 


328 


THE    01U:G0N    IIIAIL. 


IN 


III!    '  ■ 


Im  I 


1!    , 

il    ' 

;   ■     I 

ii-i 

•;  i   1 


IcajKS  aside,  and  tlio  liimtcr  lias  need  of  a  tenacious  seat 
in  the  siiddle,  lor  il"  lie  is  thrown  lo  tiic  tiroiind  tlier(,'  is 
no  lio)»(,'  lor  him.  ^\'ll('n  he  sees  liis  athiek  (Icrcnicd  the 
liulTaio  I'esnnK.'S  his  Ih^iit,  hut  it'  the  shot  is  well  dii-cctcd 
lie  soon  sto|)s;  loi"  a  lew  moments  ]\v,  stands  still,  tiicn 
toilers  and  falls  heavily  ujion  the  prairie. 

'I'lie  chief  diflieulty  in  I'unning"  buffalo,  as  it  seems  to 
me,  is  that  of  loadin,^  the  ,t;un  or  pistol  at,  full  uallop. 
Ahiny  ininters  for  eon\enienee'  sake  c-arry  three  or  four 
hullets  in  tlie  moulli;  tlu;  |)o\vder  is  jioured  down  the 
nnizzle  of  the  pieee,  tin;  bullet  di'opped  in  after  it,  the 
st(.)ck  struck  hard  upon  tlie  j)onHn(d  of  the  saddle,  and 
tlie  work  is  done.  The  danu'er  of  this  is  obvious.  Sh(jul(,l 
the  blow  on  the  ponnnel  fail  to  send  tlu;  bullet  liome,  or 
shouhl  the  hidlet  in  the  act  of  ainunu'.  start  from  its  olace 


le  Diuier  m  uie  act  oi  aunin<i.  siari  irom  us})ia 
and  roll  towards  the  nuizzle,  tlie  gun  would  prolmbly  liurst 
in  dist'hiiruinu'.  Manv  a  shattered  hand  and  XNor.^"  casuiil- 
ties  beside  have  been  the  result  of  such  an  accident.  To 
ob\iate  it,  some  hunters  make  use  of  a,  ramrod,  usually 
Inuig  by  a  strinii;  from  the  neck,  but  this  materially 
increases  the  diflicrJty  of  loadin,u'.  'I'he  bows  and  ai- 
rows  which  the  Indians  use  in  rumnnu'  l)uflalo  have  manv 
advantau'es  over  llrearms,  and  even  white  men  occasionally 
employ  tiiem. 

The  danger  of  the  chase  arises  not  so  nuu-h  from  the 
onset  of  the  wounded  ainmal  as  frijni  the  nature  of  the 
uround  which  the  hunter  nmst  ride  over.  The  pi-airic 
does  not  always  present  a  smooth,  level,  and  uniform  sur- 
face ;  veiy  often  it  is  l»roken  with  hills  and  hollows,  inter- 
sected by  ravines,  and  in  the  remoter  parts  studd(,'d  by 
the  stilt'  wild-saue  bushes.  The  most  forniidal)le  obstruc- 
tions, however,  are  the  burrows  of  wild  animals,  wolves, 
badgers,  and  particularly  })rairie-dogs,  with  whose  holes 
the  ground  for  a  very  great  extent  is  frequently  honey- 


1.    i 


M 


TIIK    CHASE. 


:3-29 


c'oiuIkmI.  Ill  (lie  Mindiicss  of  tlic  chase  tlio  hiiiilcr  nislies 
ovci'  it  iiiicoiiscioiis  ot"  claiiucr  ;  his  lioisc,  at  lull  career, 
thrusts  Ills  \{"^  dv('\)  into  one  <»t"  the  lairrows;  the  hone 
snajis,  the  i'i(K'r  is  hurled  lorwanl  to  the  "ii'ouiid  and  prol)- 
ahly  Icillcd.  Yet  ac;Mdent;>  in  hufrah)  running'  hai)|teii 
less  tVc(|U('ntly  than  one  vvouhl  suppose;  in  the  recklc'ss- 
iiess  of  tlie  chase,  the  hunter  enjoys  all  the  impunity  t)t"  ;i 
drunken    man.    and    niav   riik'   in  safetv  oscr 


uull 


les  aiu 


deeli\  ities.  where,  should  he  attempt  to  pass  in  his  soher 
senses  he  would  inl'allihly  lii'eak  his  neid^. 

The  method  of  '•  approachini:',"  heinu'  practised  ou  foot, 
lias  many  adxantaucs  owv  that  of  "' lanminu' ;  "  in  the 
former,  one  neitlier  breaks  down  his  horse  uor  eiidanu'ers 
liis  own  lil'e  :  he  must  \)v  cool,  eollecte(l,  and  watchful  ; 
nuist  understand  tlu'  Imflalo.  ohsc-rve  the  fcniuri's  of  the 
t'ountrv  and  the  course  of  the  wind,  and  he  well  skilled 
in  usinii'  the  ritle.  The  hul'i'alo  are  strange  animals; 
sometimes  tiiey  arc  so  stupid  and  infatuated  that  a  man 
may  walk  up  to  them  in  full  >\<j:\\\  on  the  open  prairie, 
and  even  shoot  sewral  of  theii*  numher  before  the  rest 
will  thiid;  it  necessary  to  retreat.  At  annthei'  moment 
they  will  he  so  shy  and  waiw,  that  in  ordei'  to  approach 
them  the  utmost  skill,  ex[)erience,  and  judiiinent  are  nec(>s- 
sary.  Kit  ("arson,!  liclieve,  stamls  pre-eminent  in  run- 
ning l)id1alo ;  in  appi'oaching.  no  man  livinn'  can  hear 
away  the  palm  iVom  Henry  Chatillon. 

After  Tete  Rouiiv  had  alarmed  tin"  camp,  no  farther 
disturhance  occurred  dni'ing  the  ni^ht.  'I'he  Arapahoes 
did  not  attt'm|)t  mischief,  or  if  they  did  the  wak(.'fulness 
of  the  party  deterred  them  from  eit'ecting  their  ])ur))ose. 
The  next  day  was  one  of  ac-li\ity  and  excitement,  for 
al)Out  ten  o'clock  the  man  in  advance  shouJed  the  glad- 
dening cr\'  of  liiijjalo^  liuffaln!  and  in  the  hollow  (jf  the 
prairie  just  below  us,  a  band  of  bulls  were  grazing.     The 


f 


|!^ 


3;3() 


THL    DllEGON    TIIAIL 


1  i.i 


tcin|>i!iti()ii  was  irivsistihlo,  and  Shaw  and  1  rode;  down 
iij)()n  tlicni.  Wo  were  liadly  nioiuited  on  oiii-  tra\(dliiiii' 
liorscs,  Imt  \\y  liai'd  hisliin<^  wo  oNcrtook  llicni,  and  Slmw 
runniiiu'  alon^sido  u  l»ull,  shot,  into  him  liuth  halls  of 
his  doni»lo-huri'ollod  ji'nii.  LooUin<i'  round  as  1  tialloprd 
by,  J  saw  the  l»nll  in  his  mortal  Wwy  rnshinu'  ajiain 
and  aiiain  nj)on  liis  anlagonist,  whoso  hors(!  oonstanllv 
loapod  asidi!,  and  avoidod  tlio  onset.  My  ohas(!  was 
moro  ))ro(nu'tod.  hut  at  lonu'th  I  ••an  close  to  the  hull  and 
killed  him  with  my  pistols.  (^ittinti-  olT  the  tails  of 
our  victims  oy  way  of  trophy,  wo  rejoined  the  jiarty  in 
ahout  a  (quarter  of  an  hour  al'lor  we  had  left  it.  Auain 
and  aii'aiu  that  morning  rang  out  the  same  welcome  cry 
•A'  l)iifj'((h>,  I'Ktfdln!  Every  l"ew  moments,  in  the  lu'oad 
meadows  along  1'  o  rivei-.  we  saw  hands  of  hulls,  who, 
raising  theii'  shau'u'v  heads,  would  u'a/e  in  stupid  amaze- 
mout  at  the  approaidiing  hoi'semen.  iiiid  then  hreaking 
into  a  clumsy  gallop,  lilo  off  in  a  long  line  across  the 
trail  in  front,  towards  the  rising  jtrairii'  on  tla;  left.  At 
n,  the   plain    heforo   us  was   aliv(^   with    thous'.'.,(ls   of 


noo 


buffal 


o 


i)iills.  cows,  an( 


1  calves  —  i 


moving  I'apK 


II V  as 


wc  drew  neai':  and  far  off  hoyond  the  river  the  swelling 
prairie  was  darkened  with  them  »(►  tin;  \ory  horizon.  The 
j)arty  was  in  g-ayer  sj>irits  than  evct-.  We  stojtped  for  a 
nooning  near  a  grove  of  tii.'os  hy  the  rixcr. 

"'Tongues  v\n\  hump-rilis  to-morrow,""  aid  Shaw,look- 
iiig  v.'th  coutempt  at  the  \cnisou  steaks  which  Doslauriors 
placed  before  us.  Oui'  meal  linisheil,  w«,'  lay  don'u  to 
sloop.  A  ;;hout  from  Henry  (.Muitillou  ai'oused  us,  and 
wc  saw  him  standing  on  the  cart-wL/el.  strct(diing  his 
tall  fni'ur>'  to  its  full   heiuiit  while   he  looked  towards  the 


P 


r.'MiMo  hevoud 


tl 


i"   ri\"er 


Foil 


owmu"  tlie  (I'rect ion  o!   lus 


eyes,  V.  o   could    c'ea'-ly  distinguish   a    large    dark    oWjoct, 
like  the   black   shadow  of  a  cloud,  j)assing  I'apidly  over 


TIIK    (11  ASK. 


331 


swell  aCtor  swell  (if  tli«'  (ilstant  iiliiiii  ;  Ucliiiid  it  follnwod 
{iiiotlici'  of  siiuiliir  ii|i|H'iiriiii('('  tlioiiuh  siuiillcr,  moving 
more  iiipidly,  mid  drawinir  (doser  and  (doscr  Id  tin'  lirst. 
Jt  was  llic  Inmtcis  ol"  the  Arapahoe  caiiiii  tdiasiim-  a  liaiid 
of  liiiri'alo.  Shaw  and  1  eauuhl  and  saddled  (Uir  best 
Jiorsc'S,  sind  vent  |»hni^in,u'  Ihronuh  sand  and  water  lo  the 
I'arthoi'  hank.  We  were  too  late.  The  hiintei's  had 
already  niin<iled  with  the  herd,  and  the  witik  nf  shiuiihter 
v;as  nearlv  over.  When  we  leacdied  the  uinnnd  we  I'onnd 
it  strewn  far  and  near  with  nnmherless  carcasses,  wl«il(3 
the  remnants  of  the  herd,  scatteicd  in  all  directions,  were 
llyin<ji;  away  in  terror,  and  the  Indians  still  rnshiiiL^  in 
])ursuit.  Many  of  the  hnnters  however  remained  upon 
the  spot,  and  amonj^'  the  rest  was  onr  yesterday's  ac- 
quaijdance,  the  chief  of  the  vilhinc.  lie  had  ali;ihted  by 
the  side  of  a  cow,  into  wlii(di  he  had  shot  five  or  six 
arrows,  and  his  sqnaw.  who  had  foUowcil  him  on  horse- 
back to  the  hunt,  was  living  him  a  draught  of  watei'  from 
a  canteen,  purchased  or  ))lundered  from  some  volunteer 
soldier.  Recrossinu'  the  river,  we  overtook  the  party 
who  were  alreadv  on  their  wav. 


Wc  had  u'oni-  scarcely  a  mile  when  wv  saw  an  imposi 


m 


S[)eetacle.  From  the  ri\'er  l)ank  on  the  riuiit,  away  over 
the  swellin<i"  prairie  on  the  left,  and  in  front  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reacdi,  was  one  vast  host  of  bulTalo.  The  out- 
skirts of  the  herd  wer<'  within  a  quiirter  of  a  mile,  hi 
mau}^  ])ai"ts  they  were  crowded  so  densely  togethei*  that 
in  the  distance  their  I'ounded  backs  presented  a  sui'face 
of  uniform  bla(;kncss ;  but  elsewhere  they  were  moi-c' 
scattered,  and  from  amid  the  multitude  rose  little  columns 
of  dust  where  some  of  them  were  roHinii"  on  the  ground. 
ITero  and  there  a  battle  was  going  forward  among  the 
bulls.  Wc  could  distinctly  see  them  rushing  against  each 
other,  and  hear  the  clattering  of  their  horns  and  their 


t    -J 


:i:J-.> 


Tin;  ()i{i:(i()N  TiiAii, 


^iif- 


III  i  ■  H   '  (  ■ 


|i' 


M  i 


i  I   ! 


i  t 
1 

1 

ILl 

1 

1" 

lioiirsc  Itclldu  iiiu'.     Sliiiw  wiis  ridiiiir  ii(   some  distimcc  in 
iidv.-iiicc,    will    llciiry   ('liiitilloii :    1    saw    him    sto|)    and 


draw  I  he 


'.•all 


KT  covo'inu'  li"«»in  his  ii'nn. 


\V 


nil  siicli  a 


siuht  hdorc  lis.  l)iit  (»iio  thiiiu'  could  he  Ihon^lif  of.  That 
nioniinu  1  had  used  pistols  in  llic  chase,  1  had  now  a 
mind  lo  liT  the  Nirliic  ol"  a  ;iiiii.  Dfslaiii-icrs  had  one, 
tiiid  I  rod"  ii|i  lo  Ihc  side  of  the  carl  ;  tiicrc  he  sal  under 
the  while  covering',  liilini;'  his  piiie  between  his  teeth  and 
Krinniny,'  with  cxcitemeiii. 


Lend 


me  voiir  unn. 


Desh 


uiriers. 


Oni.   Monsieur,  oiii,"  said    Deslaiiriri-s,   Inu'.uinu'  with 


niiiiiil    and   main   to   stop  the   mule,  which   seeiiu'd  ol 
luitelv  hent  on  iKjiin:"  forward.     Tliei 


•>ti- 


I   every  llimu'  lint  his 


moccasins  disai»peared  as   he  crawle(l   into  the  curt  and 
pulled  at  the  iinii  to  Extricate  it. 

"  Is  it  loaded  r'  1  asked. 

"Oni,  l)ien    chariie ;  you'll   kill,   mon  honro-eois ;   yes, 


'on 


;ill  —  ('"est  nil  hon  fnsil. 


1  handed  him  my  rifle  and  rode  forwai'd  to  SI 
''  Are  von  ready  '(  "  he  asked. 


law, 


^ome  on,     saa 


1  1. 


Keep  down    that    hollow,''  said    Henry,  ''and    tl 


leii 


they  won't  see  you  till  you  get  close  to  them." 

The  hollow  was  a  kind  of  \vide  raviiu; ;  it  ran  olilitpiely 
towards  the  Iml'lalo,  and  we  rode  at  a  canter  ah^ng  the 
bottom  until  it  became  too  sliallow  ;  then  we  bent  close 
to  our   horses'  necks,  and,  at   last,  lindiim-  that  it  could 


111''' 


no  loni-er  conceal  ns,  came  out  of  it  and  rode  directly 
towards  the  herd.  It  was  \v!<hin  gunsliot ;  before  its  out- 
skirts, numerous  grizzly  old  bulls  were  scattered,  hold 
guard  oyer  their  females.  They  glared  at  us  in  anger 
and  astonishment,  walked  towards  us  a  tew  yards,  and 
then  turning  slowly  round  retreated  at  a  trot  which  after- 
wards broke  into  a  clumsy  gallop.     In    an   instant  the 


rm;   ciiasf,. 


:}:13 


niiiin  liudy  (Muiilit  the  ;il!irin.  'I'lif  luilliilo  l)t"j;iii  Id  ci'owd 
;i\\!iv  fnnii  tlic  [Miiut  tnwiiitls  which  we  wen-  il|»|»|•n;l('hill^^ 
iiiid  :i  uiip  \\!is  ()|)("ii('(l  ill  llic  si(h'  of  the  herd.  We 
ciitt'i-cd  it,  si  ill  rcsh'Miiiiiiii'  luir  cxcitcil  horses,  l-lscry 
iiisliiiit  the  tiiiiinit  \\;i,s  Ihickciiiim'.  'I'lic  Imilidi).  |ii'fs>iiiu' 
tojicthi-r  ill  iiii'Lic  liodics.  ci'dwdcd  iiway  iVoiii  iis  ini  r\rrv 
hiiiid.  Ill  IVniil  iind  (111  cithrr  si<lo  we  could  sec  dark 
I'oliiniiis  and  luiisses,  liiiir  hidileii  l»y  clouds  of  dust,  I'lish- 
iu!i'  aloiin-  ill  terror  and  conriision,  ami  hi'ar  the  tramp 
and  chittcriiiLi'  of  leu  thousand  hoofs.  That  countless 
inuUilude  of  iiowcrfiil  hniles.  iuuoranl  of  their  own 
strenu'lh.  were  llyiiui'  in  a  panic  I'rotn  the  approach  of  two 
IVelde  horsenicn.     To  remain  (|uiel  lonut-r  was  impos>ii)|e. 

'' Take  that  liand  on  the  U'l't,"'  said  Shaw;  "I'll  lake 
these  in  IVont.'" 

lie  spranii'  olT,  and  1  saw  no  more  of  Jiim.  A  heavy 
Indian  whip  was  I'astonod  hy  a  hand  to  my  wrist  :  I  summ- 
it into  till'  li"  and  lasheil  my  horse's  Hank  with  all  the 
stron.iith  of  my  arm.  Away  slie  darted,  si  retching'  close 
to  the  ,i!'r<»uiid.  1  c(»iild  se<'  nolhimj,'  liiit  a  cloud  of  dust 
hciorc  me.  lnil  I  knew  that  it  coikm  aled  a  hand  of  many 
liundrcfls  of  lnitl'alo.  Jn  a  ni<imenl  1  was  in  the  midst 
of  the  ch)ud,  half  sufibcatcfl  hy  the  dust  and  stiiiiiied  liy 
the  tri.m|>lint:'  of  the  llyiiiu'  herd:  hut  I  was  drunk  witli 
the  chase  and  careil  for  nothiiiLi'  l)Ut  llie  huffalo.  \'ery 
soon  }ci   lonii'  dark    mass   hecame  visilile.  loomiiui'  throiiuii 


t 


the  nust  ;  then  I  could  ilistiuLiiiish  eacli  liulky  carcass, 
the  lioofs  llyini:'  oul  iK'ncath.  Ihc  short  tails  held  riiiiijly 
erect.  In  a  moment  I  was  so  close  thai  I  could  lia\c 
touched  thciu  Avith  my  ^un.  Suddenly,  to  my  ania/e- 
ment,  tlie  lioofs  were  Jerked  upwards,  the  tails  ljourishe(l 
in  the  air,  and  amid  a  cloud  of  dust  the  liuflalo  seemed 
to  sink  into  the  earth  hefore  me.  ()n(>  vivid  impression 
of  that   instant    remains   upon   niy   mind.     I    remember 


m 


:\'M 


tin:    OllKCiON     IllAII, 


lool 


ill  ■! 


! 

liji 

1  , 

'     1 

-  1 

■  1 

1 
1 

1 
) 

1 

i 

! 
.  t 

id, 

\'\\\>i  (Inwii   iijMiii    IIm"   Imcks   of  scvf'nil    luill'alo  < 


dimly 


visililc  tlir<iii;^li  the  dust.  Wv  )i:id  niii  niuiwarcs  u|i(iii 
ii  rii\iii('.  At  thill  iiiuiin'id,  1  was  not  tlio  most  mrcunito 
JiidiiT  (»!'  dr|»ili  Mild  width,  Imt  when  I  pussnl  it,  on  my 
rt'tiini.  I  i'oiiiid  it  alioiit  twelve  li'ct  deep  and  not  (piito 
twice  iis  wide  at  iho  bottom.  It  Wiis  impossililc  to  stop; 
I  would  hiivc  (htiu'  so  j;hidly  if  I  could  ;  so,  liair  slidiiiu', 
half  plimi:iii«i',  down  went-  the  little  mare.  Sho  caiiK! 
down  on  lier  knees  in  the  loose  sand  at  the  liottom  ;  I 
was  pit('he(|  forwai'd  ajiainst  her  neck  and  nearly  thrown 
over  her  head  amonu"  the  hiiffalo,  who  amid  dust  and  eon- 


fusioi 


I  eaiiie  tumoliiiu'  in  all  around 


Tl 


le   mar(^  was  on 


lior  feet,  in  an  instant  and  seramhliim'  like  a  eat  up  tlai 
opposite;  side.  I  thoiiuht  for  a  moment  that  she  would 
have  fallen  hack  and  eriished  mo,  hut  with  a  violent  efl()rt 
sIjc  clamliered  out  and  jiaiuod  the  hard  jirairie  ahovo. 
Olaueinu'  hack  1  saw  the  liiiLi'o  head  of  a  luill  (dinti'in.u'  as 
it  were  hy  the  foi'efeet  at  the  I'duc  of  tlu;  dusty  «iulf.  At 
liMiu'th  J  was  fairly  amon^'  the  hulliilo.  'I'liey  were  less 
densely  crowded  than  hefore,  and  I  conld  see  notliin<2;  hut 
laills,  who  always  run  at  the  icar  of  a  herd  to  j)rotect 
their  females.  As  1  passed  amoiin'  them  they  would 
hjwer  their  heads,  and  turninu'  as  tliev  ran,  try  to  uoro 
my  horso  ;  hut  as  they  were  already  at  full  speed  there 
was  no  force  in  their  onset,  and  as  Pauline  ran  laster 
tlian  they,  they  were  always  tlirown  hehind  her  in  the 
clVort.  I  soon  l)e^'an  to  distinuaiisli  cows  amid  the  thnjuu'. 
One  just  in  front  of  mc  seemed  to  my  likiuu',  and  I  pushed 
close  to   her   side.      l)rop]»ino-  the   reins  J   lired,  holding 


tl 


le   nm 


zzlc   of  the   <iun   within   a  foot    of  her   shoulder 


Quick  as  liuhtning  she  sprang  at  Pauline;  the  little  mare 
dodged  the  attack,  and  1  lost  sight  of  the  wounded  animal 
amid  the  tumult.  Innnediately  after,  1  selected  another, 
and  urging  forward  Pauline,  shot  into  her  both  pistols 


Tin:  cirAsi: 


:}:]: 


n<i'iM<i'  as 


in  siH'ccMMinii.  For  a  while  I  k»'|il  licr  in  \  irw .  Init  In 
nttcni|itiiiu'  lo  loiiil  my  uiiii,  lost  siulil  of  licr  mImi  in  llm 
(■(inrnsion.  r>('lii'vini>'  Ikt  tn  In*  mortally  wnnndnl  nntl 
nnalilc  to  k('f|t  up  with  llu)  licitl,  I  checked  my  lioi'se. 
'I'he  ci'dwd  iiishcd  onwaids.  The  dnsi  and  tnmnll  passecl 
away,  ami  mi  (he  |ii'airie.  far  liehind  ihe  rest.  I  saw  a, 
solitarv  hiilTalii  iiallniiinu'  heavilv.  In  a  moment  1  and 
my  victim  were  running'  side  l»y  side.  .My  lirearms  werii 
all  empty,  ami  1  had  in  my  poiich  nothim:'  hnl  riiU; 
hnllels,  too  lai'iic  lor  the  pistols  and  loo  small  for  tho 
^im.  1  loaded  the  enn,  howe\er.  Imt  as  ol'len  as  I 
levelled  it  to  lire,  the  ladlels  woidd  I'oll  out  of  the  mii/,/lo 
and  the  uiiu  retmned  oidy  a  report  like  a  s(piilt,  as  tho 
powder  harndessly  ex|tloded.  I  rode  in  iVoid  of  the 
hiiiralo  and  t rieil  to  turn  her  haek  ;  hut  her  eve^;  iihu'ed, 
her  mane  hristled,  and,  lowerin<^  her  head,  s-he  rushed  at 
me  with  the  utmost  llerecness  and  activity.  A^ain  and 
auain  I  rode  hol'ore  lier,  ami  {iu,'ain  ami  auaiii  she  repeatcil 


ler 


i'liiiotis    charixt 


lint  little  Pauline  was  in  her 
clement.  Sla;  doilecd  her  enemv  at  everv  rush,  until  at 
length    the    hiil'lido   stood   still,  exhausted    with    her   own 


eltoi 


ts.  h 


K'r  toiiiiiie  lollinii'  IVom  her  jaw.s. 


irulinu  to  a  little  distance,  1  dismounted,  tliinkini;'  to 
gatlier  a  handriil  of  dry  grass  to  serve  the  pm-pose  of 
wadding,  and  load  the  gun  at  my  leisure.  \o  sooner 
were  my  feet  on  the  grouml  than  the  huflido  came  lioiind- 
iug  in  such  a  rage  towards  me  that  I  jumped  \KU'k  again 
into  the  saddle  with  all  possil)l(^  despatch.  After  waiting 
-d  few  minutes  n\orc,  1  made  an  attempt  to  ride  up  and 
stal)  Iter  with  my  knife  ;  hut  Pauline  was  near  heinu'  gored 
in  the  attempt.  At  length,  hethinking  mo  of  tlu^  fringes  at 
the  seams  of  my  huckskin  tr(jusers,  J  jerked  oil'  a  few  of 
them,  and,  reloading  the  gun,  forced  them  down  the  harrel 
to  keep  the  bullet  in  its  place  ;  then  approaching,  1  shot  tho 


U'l 


330 


Tin;    OlUXiON    TRAIL 


pflll 


I 


\\<ui!,(l('(l  liiiCralo  tlinmu'li  iliclioart.  Sinking' to  licr  kncos. 
slic  rolled  o\('r  lifeless  on  the  jUiiirie.  To  iny  iislonisli- 
iiiciit,]  round  thai,  instesid  of  a  cow,  1  liad  heen  slauuiilrr- 
in<»:  a  stout  vcarliiiu'  Imll.  No  lonu'i-r  wonderinu-  at  liis 
ficM-ccncss,  J  o|iene(l  his  tliroat.  and  cultiiiu' out  Ins  toniiuo, 


ti('(l    it    at   the    ha 


Ck     O! 


niv  saddle.     Mv  ndst 


ik»'  was  one 


^\lli(•!l  a  more  cxiierienccd  eye  than  niin<;  miuiit  easily 
make  in  the  dust  and  confusion  of  sucli  a  chase, 

'riien  for  the  fh'st  time  1  liad  leisure  to  look  at  th«> 
scene  around  nie.  Tlie  |)i'airie  in  tVoid  was  darkened 
with  the  ret  re  at  in, IT  nndtitude,  and  on  either  hand  the 
hiil'l'alo  came  lilinu'  up  in  endless  columns  from  the  h)W 
])hiins  upon  the   river.     The  A.rkansas  was  three  or  four 

iles  distant.      1    turned    and    moved   sh)wlv    towards   it. 


m 


A  h 


oni!,'  time   passed   hefore.  far   in   tlie  di.-ta 


nee 


J   distin- 


ti'uislied  the  wliite  coveriim' of  the  cart  and  tlie  little  l)lack 
S])ecks  of  hoisemen  hefoi'c  a.nd  lielund  it.  Drawinii'  near. 
]  recoii'iiized  Shaw's  ek\L>'ant  tunic,  the  red  tlannel  sliirt, 
conspiruous  far  off.  1  overtook  the  party,  and  asked  him 
what  success  lie  had  had.  ile  liad  assailed  a  fat  cow, 
sliot  her  witli  two  hulk  s,  and  mortally  wounded  her. 
]>ut  neither  of  ns  was  j)rei»ared  Ibi'  the  chase  that  after- 
noon, and  Shaw,  like  myself,.had  no  sj^are  Itullcts  in  his 
])Ouch  :  so  he  aiiandoiuMl  the  disahled  animal  to  Jlenry 
Chatillon,  who  followed,  despatched  licr  with  his  riile,  and 
loaded  his  horse  with  the  meat. 

\V(*  encamped  (dose  to  the  river.  The  m"<:ht  was  dark, 
and  as  we  lay  down  we  could  haw.  min<:led  with  the 
liowlings  of  wolves,  the  hoarse  hellowinu"  of  the  buffalo, 
like  the  ocean  heating  upon  a  distant  coast. 


CHAPTER   XXV. 


THE     BUFFALO     C  A  M  P. 


"XJO  one  in  tlic  camp  was  more  active  tlian  Jim  Cur- 
"^  ^  ney,  and  no  one  half  so  lazy  as  Ellis.  J^etwcen 
these  two  there  was  a  great  anti{)athy.  Ellis  never  stirred 
in  the  morning  until  he  was  comjjelled,  but  Jim  was  al- 
wavs  on  his  feet  before  davbreak;  and  this  morning  as 
usual  the  sound  of  his  voice  awakened  the  i)arty. 

'•'•  Get  uj),  you  booliy  I  up  with  you  now,  you're  fit  for 
nothing  but  eating  and  sleeping.  Stop  your  grumbling 
and  come  out  of  that  buli'alo-robe,  or  EH  })ull  it  otT  for 

you." 

Jim's  words  were  interspersed  with  numerous  expletives, 
which  gave  them  great  additional  effect.  Ellis  drawled 
out  something  in  a  nasal  tone  from  among  the  folds  of 
his  buifalo-robe  ;  then  slowly  disengaged  himself,  rose  into 
a  sitting  })Osture,  stretched  his  long  arms,  yawned  hid- 
eously, and,  finally  raising  his  tall  person  erect,  stood 
staring  about  him  to  all  the  four  quarters  of  the  horizon. 
Deslauriers's  lire  was  soon  blazing,  and  the  horses  and 
mules,  loosened  from  their  ]»ickets,  were  feeding  on  the 
'neighboring  meadow.  When  we  sat  down  to  breakfast 
the  i)rairie  was  still  in  tlie  dusky  light  of  morning;  and  as 
the  sun  rose  we  were  mounted  and  on  our  way  again. 

"  A  white  buffalo!"  exclaimed  Munroe. 

''  ril  have  tliat  fellow,"  said  Shaw,  "if  I  run  my  horse 
to  death  after  him." 

22 


338 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I'!  i   .  <    MM 
III  I     I    !       I 


lie  tlirew  tlio  cover  of  his  gun  to  Deslauriers  and  gal- 
loped out  njion  tlic  jirairie. 


'^  Stop,  Mv.  Shaw,  siopl"  called  out  Ilcury  Chatillon, 
"you'll  run  dcnvn  your  horse  for  nothing;  it's  ouly  a 
white  ox." 

jhit  Shaw  was  already  ont  of  hearing.  The  ox,  which 
had  no  douht  strayed  away  from  some  of  the  go\'eruni(Mit 
wagon  trains,  was  standing  heneath  some  low  hills  whidi 
hounded  th(!  plain  in  the  distance.  Not  I'ar  from  him  a 
hand  of  verital)le  hnflalo  hulls  were  grazing;  iiud  starllrd 
at  Shaw's  approach,  they  all  hrokc  into  a  run,  and  went 
scramhling  \\[)  the  hill-sides  to  gain  the  high  juairie  ahove. 
One  of  them  in  his  haste  and  terror  involved  himself  in 
a  fatal  catastrophe.  Along  the  foot  of  the  hills  was  a 
narrow  strip  of  deep  marshy  soil,  into  which  the  iiidl 
plunged  and  hojielessly  entangled  himself.  W'c  all  rode 
to  the  spot.  The  huge  carcass  was  half  sunk  in  the  mud, 
which  ilowed  to  his  very  chin,  and  his  shaggy  mane  was 
outspread  upon  the  surface.  As  we  came  near,  tlie  Imll 
heu'an  io  struu'tile  with   convulsive  strenuth  ;  he  writhed 


to  and  fro.  and  in  the  eneru'v  of  his  friuht  and  d(.'S|icration 


dd  li 


df  f( 


half 


I  moment 

while  the  reluctant  mire  returned  a  sucking  sound  as  he 
strained  to  drag  his  limhs  from  its  tenacious  depths.  We 
stinndated  his  exertions  l)y  getting  hehind  him  and  twist- 
ing liis  tail;  nothing  would  do.  Tliere  was  cleaily  no 
hope  for  him.  After  every  effort  his  heaving  sides  were 
more  deejdy  indicddcd,  and  the  mire  almost  overflowed  his 
nostrils;  he  lay  still  at  length,  and  looking  round  a(  us 
with  a  furious  eye.  seenu'd  to  resign  himself  to  liis  fate. 
Ellis  slowly  dismounted,  and,  levelling  his  hoasted  yager, 
shot  the  old  hull  through  the  heart;  then  la/.ily  clind)rd 
hack  agiiiu  to  his  seat,  j»luming  himself  no  douht  on 
having  actually  killed  a  hufl'alo.     That  day  the  invincihle 


THE    uurrALo  camp. 


8:30 


vnLr'or  drow  lilood  for  tlu>  first  and  last  time  diirliii:-  ilio 
wliolo  journey. 

The  in(»rii!im'  was  a  l)ri,u'lit  and  gay  one,  and  tlic  air  so 
clear  that  on  tlie  f;i,rtliest  liorizon  the  outline  ol"  the  \n\h 
l)lue  jiraii'ie  was  sharply  drawn  against  the  sky.  Shaw 
was  in  tlu,'  mood  I'or  lumting;  lie  rode  in  advance  of  tlic 
])arty,  and  hetbrc  long  we  saw  a  file  of  hulls  gidloping  at 
full  sjjeed  upon  a  green  swell  of  the  prairie  at  some  dis- 
tance in  front.  Shaw  came  scouring  along  Ijehiiid  them, 
arrayed  in  his  red  shirt,  which  looked  very  well  in  the 
distance:  he  gained  fast  on  the  fugitives,  and  as  the  lore- 
most  hull  was  disappearing  hehind  the  summit  of  the 
swell,  we  saw  him  in  the  act  of  assailing  the  hindmost  :  a 
smoke  sjjrang  i'rom  the  nmz/le  of  his  gun  and  lloatcd 
away  l)efore  the  wind  like  a  little  white  cloud  :  the  hull 
turned  upon  him,  and  just  then  the  rising  ground  con- 
cealed them  hoth  from  view. 

We  were  moving  forward  until  ahout  noon,  when  wo 
stopped  hy  the  side  of  the  Arkansas.  At  that  moment 
Shaw  appeared  riding  slowly  down  the  side  of  a  (hstant 
hill:  his  horse  was  tii'e(l  and  jiidcd,  and  when  ho  tlii'cw 
his  saddle  upon  the  ground.  I  ohserved  that  the  tails  of 
two  hulls  were  dangling  behind  it.  No  sooner  were  the 
horses  turned  loose  to  feed  than  Henry,  asking  Munroe 
to  go  with  him,  took  his  ritle  and  walked  quietly  away. 
Shaw,  Tete  R(juge,  and  T  sat  down  liy  the  side  of  tlie  eart 
to  dis(.'uss  tlu!  dinner  which  Deslauriei's  placed  helbre  us, 
and  we  had  scarcely  linishcd  when  wc  saw  Muni'oe  walk- 
ing towards  us  along  the  river  hank.  Henry,  he  said,  had 
killed  four  fat  cows,  and  had  sent  him  back  foi-  lior>es  to 
bring  in  the  meat.  Shaw  took  a  horse  ibr  himself  and 
another  for  ITenry,  and  he  and  ^Mum'oe  left  the  camp  to- 
gether. After  a  short  absence  all  three  of  then  came 
back,  tlieir  hor.«*cs  loaded  with  the  choicest  part,-  of  the 


i.i 


In-:! 


^"iiii 


Hi  !: 


3^0 


THE    ORECiON    TRAIL. 


;i  1    ,:  ' 

I      .1 

i        Ml 

1        1    .   :  I 


meat.  Wc  kept  two  of  the  cows  for  ourselves,  and  gave  the 
others  to  Miiuroe  and  his  companions.  Deslauriers  seated 
himself  on  the  grass  before  tlie  pile  of  meat,  and  worked 
industriously  for  sometime  to  cut  it  into  thin  broad  sheets 
for  drying,  an  art  in  which  he  had  all  the  skill  of  an  In- 
dian squaw.  Long  before  night,  cords  of  raw  hide  were 
stretched  around  the  camj*,  and  the  meat  was  hung  upon 
theni  to  dry  in  the  sunshine  and  })ure  air  of  the  piairie. 
Our  California  com})anions  were  less  successful  at  the 
woi'k  ;  but  they  accomplished  it  after  their  own  fashion, 
and  their  side  of  the  camp  was  soon  garnished  in  the  same 
manner  as  our  own. 

We  meant  to  rcnuiin  at  this  ])lace  long  enough  to  i)re- 
pare  provisions  for  our  Journey  to  the  frontier,  which,  as  we 
supposed,  might  occupy  about  a  month.  Had  the  distan(,'e 
been  twice  a^  great  and  the  party  ten  times  as  large,  the 
ritle  of  Henry  Chatillon  would  have  supplied  meat  enough 
for  the  whole  within  two  days  ;  we  were  obliged  to  remain, 
however,  until  it  should  be  dry  enough  for  transportation  ; 
so  we  pitched  our  tent  and  made  other  arrangements  for 
a  jjcrmanent  camp.  The  Califorina  men,  who  had  no 
such  shelter,  contented  themselves  with  arranging  their 
packs  on  the  grass  around  their  fire.  In  the  mean  time 
Ave  had  nothing  to  do  but  amuse  ourselves.  Our  tent  was 
within  a  rod  of  the  river,  if  the  broad  sand-beds,  with  a 
scanty  stream  of  water  coursing  here  and  there  along 
their  surface,  deserve  to  be  dignified  with  the  name  of 
river.  The  vast  flat  ]»lains  on  either  side  were  almost  on 
a  level  with  the  sand-beds,  and  thev  were  bounded  in  the 
distance  by  low,  monotonous  hills,  parallel  to  the  course 
of  the  stream.  All  was  one  exj)anse  of  grass  ;  there  was 
no  wood  in  view,  exce])t  some  trees  and  stunted  bushes 
upon  two  islands  whicli  rose  from  the  wet   sands  of  the 


river. 


Yet  far  from  being  dull  an  \.  tame,  the  scene  was 


THE    BUFFALO    CAMP. 


341 


often  a  wild  and  aniniatod  one;  for  twice  a  day,  at  snn- 
rise  and  at  noon,  the  liuflido  eanie  issninm;  from  tlie  hills, 
slowly  advanciiiii:  in  their  grave  j)rocessions  to  ih'ink  at 
the  river.  All  our  anuisements  were  to  be  at  tlieir  ex- 
pense. An  old  Ijuffalo  hull  is  a  brute  of  unparalleled  uiili- 
ness.  At  first  siuht  of  him  every  feeling  of  i»ity  vanishes. 
The  cows  are  nnich  smaller  and  of  a  gentler  aj»pearance, 
as  becomes  their  sex.  While  in  this  camp  we  forbore  to 
attack  them,  leavino:  to  Henry  Chatillon,  who  could  better 
judge  their  ([uality,  the  task  of  killing  such  as  we  wanted 
for  use  ;  Itut  against  the  bulls  we  waged  an  unrelenting 
war.  Thousands  of  them  might  be  slaughtert'd  without 
causing  any  detriment  to  the  sj)ecies,  for  theii-  numbers 
greatly  exceed  those  of  the  cows  ;  it  is  the  hides  of  the  lat- 
ter alone  which  are  used  for  the  purposes  of  commerce  and 
for  making  the  lodges  of  the  Indians;  and  the  destruction 
among  them  is  therefore  greatly  disproportionate. 

Our  horses  wei'e  tired,  and  we  now  usuallv  hunted  on 
foot,  AVhile  we  were  lying  on  the  grass  after  dinner, 
smoking,  talking,  or  laughing  at  Tete  Rouge,  oiif  of  us 
would  look  n\)  and  observe,  far  out  on  the  plains  beyond 
the  river,  certain  black  objects  slowly  apj)roa('hing.  Jfe 
would  inhale  a  jtarting  whill"  from  the  pipe,  then  rising 
lazily,  take  his  ritle,  which  leaned  against  the  cai't,  throw 
over  his  shouldei'  the  strap  of  his  ])ou(*h  and  |)ow(ler-horn, 
and  with  his  moccasins  in  his  hand,  walk  across  the  sand 
towards  tlu^  opposite  side  of  the  rivei'.  This  was  very 
easy  ;  for  though  the  sands  were  about  a  (puirter  of  a  mile 
wide,  the  water  was  nowhere  more  than  two  feet  deep.  The 
farther  l)ank  was  about  four  or  five  feet  high,  and  rpiite 
]ierpendicular,  being  cut  away  ]>y  the  water  in  sj)ring. 
Tall  grass  grew  along  its  edge.  Putting  it  aside  with  his 
hand,  and  cautiously  looking  through  it,  the  hunter  can 
discern  the  huge  shaggv  back  of  the  bull  slowlv  swavjng 


j?Ti'^' 


1  ,i  li 


"i!  i 


842 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


to  niul  iVo.  as.  with  liis  clumsy  swin^'ing  gait,  Ik."  ndvaiu'ca 
towards  tli(;  water.  The  hufliih)  liuve  roguhir  paths  l)y 
which  lh('\'  c()iu(>  down  to  (h'iidv.  Sooinu'  at  a  ulaiico 
along  \\lii(di  of  these  his  intended  victim  is  mosing.  the 
hnnti'i-  crouches  under  the  hank  within  lil'teen  or  twenty 
yards,  it  may  he,  of  the  point  where  the  path  enters  the 
ri\('r.  Ilei'c  he  sits  down  (piietly  on  the  saixL  Fjistening 
inteiitis.  Ik'  hears  tlio  iieavv  monotonous  tread  of  the  ao- 
proacliing  l)ull.  The  moment  alter,  he  sees  a  motion 
among  the  long  weeds  and  grass  just  at  the  spot  where 
th(.'  path  is  channelled  through  the  hank.  An  enorin(»ns 
hlack  head  is  thrust  out,  ilie  liorns  just  \  i 
mass    of  tauLileil    mano.      11; 


siiile   amid 


111 


didii 


hlim'jinu'. 


down   comes  the   hul'lalo  u\)on  the  i'i\-er-hed  lielow.      lie 
steps  out  in  lull  sight  u])on  the  samls.     Just 


heiore  nim  a 


runnel  of  water  is  <>lidim>;,  and  he  hends  his  head  to  di'in 


'm 


ow   (lelil)era- 


Yon  may  hear  the  water  as  it  gurgles  downdiis  capacious 
throat.  Jl(>  raises  his  head,  and  the  dro])s  trickle  from 
his  wet  hciu'd.  Ife  stands  with  an  air  of  stupid  aWslrac- 
tion,  unconscious  of  the  lurking  danger.  Noiselessly  the 
Imnter  coid<s  his  I'ifie.  As  he  sits  ujion  the  sand,  his 
knee  is  raised,  an<l  his  elhow  rests  upon  it.  that  he  may 
level  his  heavy  weapon  with  a  steadier  aim.  The  stock 
is  at  his  shoulder  ;  his  eye  ranges  along  the  harrel.  Still 
he  is  in  no  hast(?  to  lire.  The  bull,  with  si 
tion.  begins  his  mai'ch  over  the  samls  to  the  other  side. 
He  ad\ances  his  foreleg,  and  exposes  to  view  a  small 
spot,  denuded  of  hair,  just  behind  the  point  of  his  shoul- 
der; ii})on  this  the  hunter  brings  the  sight  of  his  ritle  to 
bear  ;  lightly  and  didicately  his  finger  ])resses  the  hair- 
ti-igger.  The  spiteful  crack  of  the  rifle  responds  to  his 
touch,  and  instantly  in  the  middle  of  the  bare  sj)ot  a])- 
pears  a  small  red  dot.  The  bufTalo  shivers  ;  death  has 
overtaken  him,  he  cannot  tell  from  whence ;  still  he  does 


\l 


THE    BUFFALO    CAMP. 


SUl 


not 


hut    will 


KS 


u'iivilv   forward,  as   if  noiliinii 


IkkI 


lia|i|i('ii('(|.  Vet  licloi'i'  lie  luis  <^"()ii('  I'ai'  out  upon  IIh'  siukI, 
you  see  liini  stop  ;  he  totters;  his  kuees  bend  uudei-  him, 
aud  his  head  sinks  Ibrwartl  to  the  uTound.  Then  his 
whoh'  vast  hulk  sways  to  one  si(h';  h(>  I'olls  over  on  the 
s;ind,  aud  dies  with  a  seareely  peire]»tilih'  -^tru^'ule. 

Wayhiyiu^'  tlie  hul'i'ulo  in  this  manner,  and  .shoot ini>' 
them  us  they  come  to  water,  is  th.e  easiest  method  of 
lumtini''  tliem.    'J'hev  mavalso  l)e  .'ipproarhed  hv  eiawlini;' 


d  hit 


up  ravines,  or  oeiund  luiis,  oi-  even  over  die  open  jirairie. 
'J'his  is  often  surprisingly  easy;  l)ut  at  other  times  it  I'e- 
(piires  the  utmost  skill  ')t'  the  most  experienced  hunter, 
fleury  Chatillon  was  a  man  t.if  extraordinary  strength 
and  hardihood;  hut  1  have  seen  him  I'eturn  to  eanij) 
(piite  exhausted  with  his  ellorts.  his  limlis  si;ratehed  and 
wounded,  and  his  huekskin  dress  stuck  full  oi'  the  thorns 
of  the  piiekly-jieur,  among  Avhicli  he  had  heen  crawling. 
Sometimes  he  would  lie  flat  ni»oii  liis  face,  and  drag  him- 
si'lf  along  in  tiiis  position  lor  many  rods  together. 

On   the   second   day   of  our  stay   at  this  jdace,  Henry 
cnt  out  lor  ail  afternoon  hunt.     Shaw  and  I  remained 


w 


in  caiii[),  until,  oliserving  some  bulls  ai»proachiiig  the 
water  upon  the  other  side  of  the  river,  we  crossed  over  to 
attack  them.  'I'hey  were  so  near,  however,  that  lieforc 
we  could  get  under  c(jver  of  the  hank  our  apjiearancc  as 
we  walked  over  the  sands  alarmed  them,  'rurning  round 
before  coming  within  gun-shot,  they  began  to  move  olf  to 
the  right  in  a  direction  parallel  to  the  river.  J  (dimbed 
up  the  bank  and  ran  after  them.  They  were  walking 
swiftly,  and  before  I  eould  come  within  gun-shot  distance 
they  slowly  wheeled  al»oiit  and  faced  me.  Htd'oi'e  they 
had  turned  far  enough  to  see  me  1  had  fallen  Hat  on  my 
face.  For  a  moment  they  stood  and  stared  at  the  strange 
object  niioii   the   grass;  then  turning  away,  again  they 


-7T|- 


344 


THE     OREGON    TRAIL. 


I  i 


III 


\  I  '; 


walked  on  as  l)cfurc  ;  and  I,  risinj^'  imniodiatcly,  ran  o,  3 
more  in  pur.snit.  Again  they  wlieeled  ahont,  and  again  I 
fell  j)i'ostrate.  Repeating  this  three  or  i'onr  times,  lejii  .0 
at  length  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  fugitives,  an(i  .s 
I  saw  tlu'ni  turning  again  I  sat  down  ard  levelled  my 
rifle  'I'll  >  one  in  the  (M-idre  was  the  largest  1  liad  ever 
seen.  1  shot  him  beiiind  the  shouldei-.  His  two  eom- 
|"!!iuM:  ran  olf.  I!e  attempted  to  follow,  but  soon  came 
to  a  stann  nd  at  length  lay  down  as  (pnetly  as  an  ox 
ehewing  the  end.  Cautiously  approaching  him,  1  saw  by 
liis  dull  and  jelly-like  eye  that  he  was  dead. 

When  I  began  the  ehase,  the  prairie  was  almost  ten- 
antless;  but  a  great  nndtitude  of  buitido  had  suddenly 
thronged  upon  it,  and  looking  np  1  saw  within  fd'ty  rods 
a  heavy,  dark  eolumn  stretching  to  the  right  and  lel'i  as 
far  as  J  eould  see.  J  walked  towards  them.  ^ly  approach 
did  not  alarm  them  in  the  least.  The  eolumn  itself  con- 
sisted almost  iitirely  ol"  cows  and  calves,  but  a  gi'eat 
many  old  bulls  were  ranging  about  the  prairie  on  its  flank, 
and  as  I  drew  near  they  faced  towards  me  with  such  a 
grim  and  ferocious  look  that  I  thought  it  best  to  j)roceed 
no  farther,  indeed  I  was  already  within  close  ritie-shot 
of  the  column,  and  1  sat  down  on  the  groniul  to  watch 
their  movements.  Sometimes  the  whole  would  stand 
still,  their  heads  all  one  way  ;  then  they  would  trot  for- 
ward, as  if  by  a  connnon  imjadse,  their  hoofs  and  horns 
elatterinu"  together  as  thev  m(*ved.  1  soon  began  to  henr 
at  a  distance  on  the  left  the  sharp  reports  of  a  rifl  ,  again 
and  again  repeated  ;  and  not  long  after,  dull  and  heavy 
sounds  succeeded,  which  I  recognized  as  the  familiar  voice 
of  Shaw's  (loublc-l)arrelled  gun.  When  Henry's  rifle  was 
at  work  there  was  always  meat  to  be  brought  in.     I  went 


back  across  the  river  for  a 


horsa, 


and,  retnrninii',  I'eached 


the  spot  where  the  hunters  were  standing.  The  buffalo  were 


THE    HUFFALO    CAMP. 


345 


visible  on  ilio  distniit  pniiric.  The  liviiifr  Imd  rotrcatc  I 
from  tli(^  }.  ')U1k1,  hut  ton  or  twelve  carcasses  were  scat- 
tered in  various  directions.  Henry,  knife  in  hand,  was 
st«,'!,j/in<j:  over  a  dead  cow,  euttinj:;  away  the  hest  a  id  fat- 
test of  the  meat. 

Wlien  Shaw  hd't  me  he  had  walket]  (h)wn  for  some  dis- 
tance under  tlie  river-ljank  to  hud  iinotlier  Imll.  At 
length  he  saw  the  j»lains  covered  with  the  host  of  huffnlo, 
and  soon  after  heard  the  crack  of  If'  ,  -v's  rifle.  Ascend- 
inti:  the  hank,  he  crawled  through  t!^'  *•  ss,  which  for  a 
rod  or  two  from  the  river  was  ver.  hig.'  and  I'ank.  lie 
liad  not  crawled  I'ar  helore  to  1'  as  •nishment  he  saw 
Henry  standing  erect  u[)on  the  p.-aii",  •,  almost  surrounded 
by  the  builalo.  Henry  was  in  h  •!(  nent.  Quite  uncon- 
scious that  any  one  was  lo(jking  at  him,  lu;  stood  at  the 
full  height  of  his  tall  figure,  one  hand  resting  upon  his 
side,  and  the  other  arm  leaning  carelessly  on  the  nnizzle 
of  his  I'itie.  His  eye  was  ranuing  over  the  sinuular 
assemblaue  around  him.  Now  and  then  he  would  select 
such  a  cow  as  suited  him,  level  his  i-ifle,  and  shoot  her 
dead;  then  (jnietly  reloading,  he  v.'ould  resume  his  for- 
mer position.  The  buffalo  seemed  no  more  to  regard  his 
presence  than  if  he  were  one  of  themselves  ;  tin;  bulls 
were  bellowing  and  butting  at  each  other,  or  rolling  about 
ill  the  dust.  A  group  of  buffalo  would  gather  about  the 
carcass  of  a  dead  cow,  snuffing  at  her  wounds  ;  and  some- 
times thev  would  come  behind  those  that  had  not  vet 
fallen,  and  endeavor  to  jmsh  them  from  the  sj)ot.  Now 
and  then  some  old  bull  would  face  towards  Henry  with  an 
air  of  stui)id  amazement,  but  none  seemed  inclined  to 
attack  or  fly  from  him.  For  some  t'mw  Shaw  lay  among 
the  grass,  looking  in  suri>rise  at  this  extraordinary  sight ; 
at  length  he  crawled  cautiously  forward,  and  sj)oke  in  a 
low  voice  to  Henry,  who  told  him  to  rise  and   come  on. 


:t': 


34() 


TIIK    ()Ui:(iON    TUAir, 


ii 


1 


■I 


Still  the  liuriiilo  sliouol   IK)   siiiii   ol'  Iriii';   lln'V  I'ciUiiiiHMl 


uallicnMl  iihoiit  their  ( 


ilciid 


('illM|)!llll()ll^ 


II 


vuvy  liau  jiIitihIv 


killed 
kiiccli 


!is   luiiiiv  cows 


as  wo  waiiti'(l    lor  use,   and   Sliaw 


'liiiid 


oik;    o 


r  ii 


u!   carcasses, 


dKjt    I 


ive   hulls 


liet'oi'e  the   I'cst  tlioiijilil    it    nccessaiy  to  dis|iei"S(3. 

The   rre(|ueiit    stupidity  iiud   iulatuatioii   ol'  the   huiralo 
seems  the  UKU'c  I'enuu'kaltlc  IVoni  the  contrast   it  olU'rs   to 


their  wilducss  aiKl  wariness  at  othei-  tiuK' 


Ilenrv  knew 


;!ll  their  peeuliaritics  ;  he  had  studied  them  as  a  scholar 
studies  his  hooks,  ami  (leri\('(l  (piitc  as  much  pleasure 
I'rom   tla;  occupation.     The   hiil'lalo  were   a    kind   ol"  coni- 


1 


anions  to  him,  and,  as  Ik;  said,  he  ne\'er  fell    aloiK'  w  he 


they  were  altout  liim,  lie  took  ji'reat  pride  in  his  skill  in 
linntiny:.  lie  was  one  of  tlio  nK)st  modest  of  men:  vet 
in   the  siin|)licity  anil   IVankncss  of  his  character,  it   was 


cleai'   that    he   looked 


ujjon  his    i)ri>-e)uincnc(; 


in  ll 


us   re 


spec!  as  a  thing'  too  palpaldc  and  well-cstal)lished  to  he 
disputed.  Ihit  whatever  may  have  heen  Ids  estimate  of 
his  own  skill,  it  was  rather  lich)W  than  alKni.'  that  which 
others  placeil  upon  it.  '^I'hc  (jnl\'  time  that  1  e\<'r  saw  a 
shade  of  scorn  darken  liis  lace,  was  when  two  \-olunleer 
soldiers,  who  had  just  killed  a  hul'iido  for  the  first  time, 
nnderto(_)k  to  instruct  him  as  to  the  hest  metlnxl  of  '"  ap- 
])roaching."  Henry  always  seemed  to  think  that  he  had 
a  sort  of  ))rescrii)tive  rijilit  to  the  hutlalo,  and  to  look 
upon  them  as  somethinu'  helonu'inu'  to  himself.  Nothing 
rxciti'd  his  indi<j,'nation  so  much  as  an\'  wanton  destruc- 
tion t'ommitted  anK)nii'  tlie  ciiws,  and  in  his  view  shooting 
a  calf  was  a  cardinal  sin. 

lleniy  Chatillon  and  Tetc  Rouge  were  of  the  same 
age;  that  is,  ahout  thirty,  Henry  was  twice  as  large, 
and  ahout  six  times  as  strong  as  Tete  Rouge.  Henry's 
face  was  roughened  hy  winds  and  storms  ;  Tete  Rouge's 
was  bloated  hy  sherry-cohhlers  and  hrandy-toddy.     Henry 


'11II-:  1,1  .  lAi.o  cAMr. 


:]17 


tnlk('(l  ol"  Indiana  iiiitl  ImlTjilo  ;  'I'^lc  IJoii^c  of  tliciitrcs 
aiul  oysti  r-cflliii's.  Ilciiiy  liinl  led  u  lili'  (if  lianlsliip  ami 
[)rlvuli(»ii  ;  Trie  lloiiuc  never  had  a  wliiin  wliiili  lu;  would 
not  <iratily  at  IIk.'  first  uioincnt  lie  was  alilc.  Henry 
ni()i'en\  (•!•  was  the  UKist  disinterested  man  I  ever  saw; 
wliihj  'I'ete  lionne,  ihnnuh  e(inally  u(»i>d-na(ureil  in  his 
way.  eared  lor  nohody  hut  liinisell".  Yet  wc  wouhl  not. 
liavc  h)st  him  on  anv  account  ;  lie  served  llie  purpose  of 
a  jestei-  in  a  I'euchil  easth';  oui-  camp  would  ha\c  lieeu 
lifeless  without  him.  Foi'  the  past  week  he  had  fattened 
in  a  most  amazinu,'  manner:  and.  indeed,  this  was  not  at 
all  surprising',  since  his  a|)petit(;  was  inordinate.  He  was 
eatin,u'  from  morning  till  niuht  ;  half  the  time  he  woidd 
be  at  work  cooking  sona;  private  rejiast  for  himself,  and 
he  ])aid  a  visit  to  the  coflee-pot  eight  or  ten  times  a  day. 
His  rueful  and  disconsolate  face  hecame  jovial  and  ruhi- 
eund,  his  eyes  stood  out  like  a  lohstei-'s,  and  his  spirits, 
which  before  wei'c  sindc  to  the  depths  of  despondency, 
were  now  elated  in  pr(.tportion  ;  all  day  he  was  sinuing, 
whistling,  laughing,  and  telling  stoj-ies.  l»eing  mortally 
afraid  of  dim  <Iurney,  he  kept  (dose  in  the  neighhorhood 


of  our  tent.     As  he  had  seen   an  almnd 


iince 


of  low  fast 


life,  and  had  a  considerable  fund  of  humor,  his  anecdote 


were  ext  I'cmuely  amsing,  espciaally  since  he  never  hesi- 
tated to  place  himself  in  a  ludicrous  ])oiut  of  view,  pro- 
vide(l  he  could  raise   a   lauuh   1»V  doinu'  so.     Tete    Rouge 


n^' 


however,  was  sonu'times  I'ather  troublesome;  he  had  an 
inveteratt!  habit  of  pilfering  ])rovisions  at  all  times  of  the 
day.  Jle  set  I'idit'ule  at  deiianee  ;  and  would  never  lia\(; 
givi'ii  over  his  tricks,  even  if  they  had  drawn  upon  him 
the  scorn  of  the  whole  party.  Now  and  tlum.  indet'd, 
something  worse  than  laughter  fell  to  his  share  ;  on  these 
occasions  he  would  exhihit  much  contrition,  Imt  half  an 
hour  after  we  would  generally  observe  him  stealing  round 


'  'I 


348 


Tin;    OUIXJON    TIIAIL. 


ill^ 


i  I 


. 


t:' 

1^; 


to  tlic  1m»x  lit  the  Itiick  of  llw  carl,  and  slyly  iiiukiii^'  olV 
with  tlic  provisions  wliii'li  Di'shiuricis  lia*!  laid  1,'y  lor 
siippci'.  lie  was  IoikI  of  smoking  ;  Imt  luiviiijr  i»o  toltai'co 
(tf  his  own,  we  used  to  provide  liiiii  with  as  nincli  as  ho 
wanted,  a  small  piece  at  a  time.  At  Ih'st  we  ^ave  liini 
hair  a  pdinid  together  ;  hut  this  experinient  |(r<t\('d  jin 
entire  failure,  for  he  invuriahly  lost  not  oidy  the  tobacco, 
lait  th(!  knife  intrusted  to  him  for  cutting;  it.  and  a  few 
minutes  after  he  woidd  come  to  us  with  many  apologies 
and  heg  for  more. 

Wo  had  been  two  days  at  this  camp,  and  som(>  of  the 
meat  was  nearly  lit  for  transportation,  when  a  storm  camo 
sudtlenly  upon  us.  About  sunset  the  whole  sky  grew  as 
black  as  ink,  and  the  long  grass  at  tin*  lidge  (m'  the  river 
bent  and  rose  mournfully  with  the  first  gusts  of  the  ap- 
]»roacliing  hurricane.  Munroe  and  his  two  companions 
brought  their  guns  and  |)laced  them  nndei-  cover  of  our 
tent.  Having  no  slielter  for  themselves,  they  built  a  lii'O  of 
driftwood  thai  might  have  delied  a  cataract, and,  wrapped 
in  their  bul'liilo-idl)es,  sat  on  the  ground  around  it  to 
bide  th(!  fury  of  the  storm.  Deslauriers  ensconced  him- 
self under  the  cover  of  the  cart.  Shaw  and  1,  together 
with  Henry  and  Tete  llotige,  crow(led  into  the  little  tent ; 
lait  first  of  all  tlu'  dried  meat  was  ])il('d  together,  and 
well  i)rotected  by  l)ul'lalo-robes  )»inned  firmly  to  the  ground. 
About  nine  o'clock  the  storm  broke  amid  absolute  dark- 
ness ;  it  blew  a  gale,  and  torrents  of  rain  roared  over 
the  boundless  expanse  of  open  j)rairie.  Oui-  tent  was 
filled  with  mist  and  sjji-ay  beating  through  the  canvas, 
and  saturating  every  thing  within.  We  could  only  dis- 
tinguish each  other  at  short  intervals  by  tin;  dazzling 
flashes  of  lightning,  wliich  displayed  the  whole  waste 
around  us  with  its  momentary  glare.  We  had  our  fears 
for  the  tent ;  but  for  an  hour  or  two  it  stood  fast,  until 


Tin;    Hl'I'r.M.o    ('AMI'. 


:M9 


nt  Iciitrlli  fill'  ciiji  ;i'!iv(»  way  licloro  a  j'nriotis  blast  :  tlio 
jM)l('  lore  llir(»ii;ili  the  lop,  iiml  in  :iii  iiistiint  we  uoro 
half  suirocalcd  liy  llio  cold  and  dripping'  lolds  nl'  tlio 
canvas,  which  fell  down  upon  ns.  Sci/in;^'  upon  our 
^uiis,  uc  plac(Ml  thnu  erect,  in  oi'dn-  to  lit'l  the  sutnriitud 
cloth  aliove  our  heaijs.  In  this  aerccaliie  .situation,  in- 
volved anions  wet  hlankets  and  hull'alo-i'ohcs,  we  s]ient 
H«'veral  hours  of  llu;  ni^iht,  durinsj."  whii-h  the  storm  would 
not  ahate  for  a  uionient,  hut  jicltcd  down  with  niei'ci- 
less  fury.  Ilcfore  lon^  the  water  gathered  heiicath  us 
in  a  pool  two  oi-  three  inches  deep;  so  that  foi-  a  c<iu- 
siderahlc  part  of  the  niuht    we  wei'c  |)aitiallv   inuucrsed 


in  a  CO 


Id 


l)ath. 


h 


1  s|tite  of  all   thi^ 


T 


cir 


n 


OU'JC  S    lloW 


of  Spirits  (lid  not  fail  him  ;  he  lau,uhe(l,  whistled,  and 
sanu'  in  delhince  of  the  stcu-m,  and  that  nijiht  paid  oil' 
the  long:  arrears  of  ridicule  wliich  he  owed  us.  While 
we    lay    in    silence,   endurinu'    lluj   iniliction    with    what 


philosophy  we  cou 


M 


nui 


ster,  Tote   Hoime,   who   was   in 


r'-' 


toxicatcd   with  animal  spirits,  cracked    jokes  at   our  ex- 
jicnse  hy  the  hour  together.     At   ahoiit   three  o'clock   in 


the  morning,  preferring  "the  tyranny  of  the  open  night" 
to  such  a  wretched  shelter,  we  crawled  out  from  hcn-ath 
the  fallen  canvas.  The  wiiul  had  ahated.  hut  tie  rain 
fell  steadily.  'IMie  (ire  of  the  California  men  still  blazed 
amid  the  darkness,  and  we  joined  them  as  they  sat 
around  it.  AVe  made  readv  some  hot  coffee  hv  way  of 
relVeshiricnt  ;  hut  wheji  some  of  tin;  i»arty  sought  to 
r(>jtlenish'  their  cups,  it  was  found  that  Tete  l^^uge, 
having  disposed  of  his  own  share,  had  jirivately  ab- 
stracted tlie  colU'C-pot  and  drunk  the  I'csl  »;;'  the  con- 
tents  out  of  the   spout. 


In  th(^   morninu',  to  our  ijrreat   iov,  ,ui  uncloude 


uiu 


rose  u{)on  the  prairie.     AVc  jn'esented   .1  rather  lrnigl,ai»lc 
appearance,  for  the  cold  and  clannny  ])uckskin,  saturated 


! 
1 1 


.350 


Tirj;  ouKCioN    trail. 


•\\\'\ 


mm 


■      i'   : 


M 


hi. 

Avitli  Wider,  cliin^'  I'asl  to  our  linilis.  Tlic  litilit  wind  and 
Wiiriu  suiisliiiic  soon  di-icd  it  a<i'aiii,  and  then  we  wore  all 
iiica^cil  in  armor  of  intolci'althj  stifliioss.  Roanun:^'  all 
day  o\('r  the  iJi-airic  and  sho(.)tin_i''  two  or  tlirer  hulls, 
Avere  scarcely  enouuli  to  restore  the  stil'fened  leather  to 
its  usual  pliancy. 

l^esides  Henry  Chatillon,  Sliaw  and  1  were  the  only 
Inuiters  in  the  party,  ^iuin-oe  this  nioruinii'  made  an 
atteiu])!  to  run  a  hull'alo,  hut  liis  hoi-se  eoidd  not  eonie 
up  to  the  ^'auK}.  Shaw  went  out  with  him.  and  heing 
l)etter  mounted  soon  found  himselC  in  the  midst  of  the 
hei'd.  SeeiiiU'  nothinji'  hut  cows  and  calves  around  him, 
he  checked  his  horse.  An  old  hull  canu!  ^allopin^"  on 
the  open  ])i'airie  at  some  distance  hehind,  and  tin'nin<i', 
Shaw  rode  across  his  [tath,  levellinir  his  tiun  as  he  passed, 
and  shootinu'  him  through  the  shoulder  into  the  heart. 

A  great  flock  of  huzzards  was  usually  soaritig  ahout  a 
few  trees  that  stood  on  the  island  just  helow  our  camp. 
Throuuhont  the  whole  of  vesterdiiv  we  had  noticed  an 
eagle  among  them:  to-day  he  w.as  still  there:  and  Tetc 
Routi'e,  declarinii'  that  he  would  kill  the  hird  of  America, 
horrowed  I)eslauriers's  iiun  and  set  out  on  his  unjjatri- 
otic  mission.  As  might  have  been  expected,  tlu^  eagle 
suffered  no  harm  at  his  hands.  He  soon  returned,  say- 
ing titat  he  could  not  lind  him,  hut  had  shot  a  Ituzzard 
instead.  Ikdng  i-ecjuired  to  jn'oduce  the  hird  in  proof  of 
his  assertion,  ho  said  he  ludieved  that  he  was  not  (juite 
dead,  hut  he  must  he  hurt,  from  the  swiftness  with  whicli 
lie  flew  off. 

"  If  you  want,"  said  Tete  Kouge,  "  I'll  go  and  get  one 
of  his  feathers  ;  I  knocked  off  }»lenty  of  them  when  I 
shot  him." 

Just  op])osite  our  camp,  was  another  island  covin-ed 
with   hushes,  sind   l)ehind   it  was  a  deep  i)ool   of  water, 


THE    mi  FALO    CAMP. 


351 


tvered 
water, 


wliile  two  (>i-  jlircc  ('onsi(l(>ral)lG  streams  cciirscil  ()\(>r  Mie 
sand    lint    I'iif  ulT.      1   was    batliiiiij;   at   this    jihicc    in    tlie 


iftrn 


looii    w  iK'ii    a    w 


liiti^    wolf,    laru'cr    than    the    lai'u<'st 


NcwroiiiiiHii.iid  d(t,u',  ran  out  iVoiii  Ixdiiiid  tli'.'  jioint  of  tlu; 
island,  and  uallopcd  leisundy  uwv  the  sand  not  lialt'  a 
stoiie's-throw  distant.  1  couhl  phiinly  sec  his  red  ryes 
and  the  l>i'isth's  alioiit   liis  snout  :  he 


was  an  iiiily  sconn- 
drci,  with  a  Imshy  tail,  a  larp'  head,  and  a  most  rciml- 
si\-e  eoiinteiiancc.  Ilavinu'  neither  rille  to  shoot  nov 
stone  to  |ielt  him  with.  1  was  hxdvinu;  al'ter  some  missile 
i'or  his  iienefit,  when  the  report  of  a  gMin  came  from  the 
eaiii]),  and  the  hall  tlirew  iij)  the  sand  just  hryoiid  him  ; 
at  this  h(!  ^uave  a  sliii'lit  juni]).  and  stretehed  away  so 
swiftly  tliat  he  soon  dwindh.Ml  into  a  mere  speck  on  the 
distant  saiul-heds.  The  mimhcr  of  carcasses  thai  l»y  this 
time  were  lyinii'  ahont  the  iiciuldiorin^'  ))rairie  summoned 
the  wolves  I'rom  every  (piarter  ;  the  s])ot  wliere  Shaw  and 
Henry  had  limited  togetlier  soon  liecamc  their  favorite 
resort,  for  here  ahout  a  dozen  dead  huffalo  were  ferment- 
ing under  the  hot  sun.  1  used  often  to  u'o  oxer  the  river 
and  watclt  them  at  their  meal.  IJy  lying-  under  the  hank 
it  was  easy  to  get  a  i'ull  view  of  them.  'J'liere  were  three 
different  kinds:  the  wliite  wolves  and  the  gi'ay  we'lves, 
both  very  large,  and  liesides  these  the  small  jtrairie 
wolves,  not  much  liigger  than  si»aniels.  'J'liey  would 
howl  and  hglit  in  a  crowd  around  a  single  carcass,  yet 
they  were  so  watchful,  and  their  senses  so  acute,  that  I 
never  was  ahle  to  crawl  within  a  fair  shooting  distance; 
Avhenever  1  attemptiMl  it.  they  would  all  scatter  at  onc(> 
and  glide  silentlv  awav  thronuh  the  tall  uiass.  'J'he  air 
above  this  spot  was  alwavs  full  of  ttP'kev-buz/.ards  or 
black  vultures:  whenever  the  wolves  left  a  carcass  thev 
would  descend  upon  it.  and  cover  it  so  densely  that  a 
rifle  bullet   shot   at   random    among   the   gormandizing 


]l 


^  III 


..ill 


352 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


crowd  would  fjjcncrally  strike  down  two  or  three  of  tliom. 
These  birds  would  often  sail  by  scores  just  al)ove  our 
camp,  their  broad  lilack  wings  seeming  half  trausj)arent 
as  they  expanded  them  against  the  blight  sky.  The 
wolves  and  the  buzzards  thickened  about  us  every  lujur, 
and  two  or  three  eagles  also  came  to  the  feast.  1  killed 
a  Indl  within  rifle-shot  of  the  camp;  that  night  the 
wolves  made  a  fearful  howling  close  at  hand,  and  in  the 
morning  the  carcass  was  completely  hollowed  out  by 
these  voracious  feeders. 

After  remaining  four  days  at  this  camp  we  prepared  to 
leave  it.  AVe  had  for  our  own  |)art  about  live  hundred 
pounds  of  dried  meat,  and  the  Calilornia  men  had  pre- 
pared some  three  hundred  more  ;  this  consisted  of  the 
fattest  and  choicest  parts  of  eight  or  nine  cows,  a  small 
quantity  oidy  being  taken  from  each,  and  the  rest  aban- 
doned to  the  wolves.  The  pack  animals  were  laden,  tlie 
horses  saddled,  and  the  nudes  harnessed  to  the  cart. 
Even  Tete  Rouge  was  ready  at  last,  and  slowly  moving 
from  the  ground,  we  resumed  our  j(jurncy  eastward. 
When  we  had  advanced  about  a  mile,  Shaw  missed  a 
valuable  hunting-knil'e,  and  turned  back  in  search  of  it, 
thinking  that  he  had  left  it  at  tiie  camp.  The  day  was 
dark  and  gloomy.  Tl'C  ashes  of  the  (ires  were  still 
smoking  by  the  river  side;  the  grass  around  them  was 
trami)led  down  by  men  and  horses,  and  strewn  with  all 
the  litter  of  a  camp.  Our  departure  had  been  a  gather- 
ing signal  to  the  birds  and  beasts  of  prey.  Scores  of 
wolves  were  prowling  about  the  smouldering  fires,  while 
multitudes  were  roaming  over  the  neighboring  prairie  ; 
they  all  fled  as  Shaw  api)roached,  some  running  over  the 
sand-beds  and  some  over  the  grassy  plains.  The  vultures 
in  great  clouds  were  soaring  overhead,  and  the  dead  l)ull 
near   the   camp  was  completely  blackened  by  the  flock 


f 


THE    BUFFALO    CAMP. 


353 


tliat  had  alighted  upon  it ;  they  fla[>[»ed  their  broad  wings, 
and  stretched  upwards  their  crested  heads  and  h)ng 
skinny  necks,  tearing  to  remain,  yet  rehictant  to  leave 
their  disgusting  least.  As  he  searched  about  the  lires 
he  saw  the  \V(dves  seated  on  the  liiils  waitiug  I'or  his  de- 
parture. Having  looked  in  vain  I'or  liis  knife,  he  mounted 
again,  and  left  the  wolves  and  the  vultures  to  banquet 
undisturbed. 


'  ;    ♦! 


23 


CIIAITER    XXYT. 


D  ( )  W  N     'J'  1 1  E     A  11  K  A  N  S  A  S. 


'^Mi 


IX   llic  siiiunu'i'  of  1S4<'».  the  wild   and   lonely  b.'inks  of 
the    r|tiM'r   Arkansas    liclicld    Inr   the    lirsl   iinic   the 
Diissau'c  of  an  ai'niv.      Cicncral  Kcarncv,  on  liis  niareli  to 
Santa  I'V.  adopted  ihis  ronte  in  pi'd'civnco  to  the  old  ti-ail 
ol'  the  Cinian'on.      When   we  wci-c  on   tlu'  Arkansas,  the 
main  Ixxly  ol"  tli»'  troops  lia.d   already  passed  on  ;   Priee's 
iMissonri  rcLiinient,  lioweNcr,  was  still   on  its  way,  lia,\ing 
Ici't   the   frontier    nnieh    lalei-   than    th«'    rest  :  and    ahout 
this  time  we  heiz'aii   to   meet  one    or  two  eonipanies  at  a 
time   mo\in2'  alonu'   the    trail.      Xo    nu'ii   evei'  emharked 
upon   a   military  expedition  witli   a    ureatei'  Ionc   foi'  the 
woi'k  before  them  than  the  Missoui'ians  ;  hut  if  diseipliiie 
and    snhordination    are  the  criterion    of  mei'it,  lliey  were 
worthless  soldiers  indeed.      Vet  \\hen  their  exploits  have 
j'unu'  throutih  all  America,  it   would   he    ahsurd   to   deny 
that  they  were  excellent  irrciiular  ti'oops.    'J'heir  \ictoi'ies 
were  gained    in   the   teeth   of  vwvy  estahlished  pi-ecedent 
ol'  warfare  ;   and  were  owinu'  ti>  a  eomhination  of  military 
(pialities   in  the   nu'ii   themselves.      Doniphan's   regiment 
niarclicd  throni^h   Xew  Mexieo  more  like  a  hand  of  free 
companions    than    like    the    paid    soldiers    of   a   modern 
o'overnment.      Wlien   (leneral  Tav'or  complimented  him 
on  !iis  ^  access  at  Sacramento  and  elsewhere,  the  Colonel's 
rejiiv  verv  well    illustrates   tlu'    relations  which   subsisted 
between  the  offieers  and  men  of  his  command. 


\i  . 


iiks  of 
1110  llic 

JUH'll  1o 

lid  trail 
-as,  the 
Price's 
lia\iiiti 
1    altoiit 
ics  at  a 
iliarkcd 
for  the 
soipliiic 
V  wore 
s  have 
deny 
ctoi'ies 
codeut 
lilitary 
iii  1110  lit 
of  Tree 
iiodoni 
.'d  hiiu 
tloiiel's 
ibsisted 


() 


DOWN    THE    ARKANSAS. 


33.5 


"I  don'f  know  any  thing  of  the  niaiunivros.  Tho 
l)0vs  kept  ooniiiiu'  to  iiio.  to  lot  thoin  oliaru'o  :  and  when 
T  saw  a  lidod  o|)|iortunity,  1  told  tlioiii  tlioy  iiiiLiiit  ti'o. 
'riioy  wore  (d'f  like  a  sliot,  and  that's  all  I  know  altont 
it." 

Tho  haokwoods  lawy<'r  was  hcttoi'  fittod  to  conciliate 
the  o'(»od-\\ill  than  to  eoiniiiand  tho  olioilioiioo  of  his  inni. 
'I'horo  wore  many  sorvini:'  iindor  him,  who  holh  from 
o'jaraolor  and  (■(hioatioii  ooiild  hotter  have  hoM  ooiiimaiid 
tiian  ho. 

At  tho  liaftl"'  of  Saoi'anit'iito  his  iVonticrsmeii  foiiuht 
under  every  disadvantage.  The  Mexicans  had  chosen 
tlioi'-  ]»ositioii  ;  they  were  drawn  up  aci'oss  the  \aUey 
that  le(|  to  tlioii'  native  (;ity  ol'  rhihiiahua  :  their  whole 
IVont  was  covoi-od  liy  int  r(Miohnionts  and  defended  by 
})attories,  and  they  outmimlierod  the  iinaders  live  to  one. 
.\n  oaii'le  flew  (jvei'  the  Americans,  and  a  doop  murmur 
rose  aloiiu'  their  lines.  'I'he  eiu'iiiy's  hattoi'ies  opened  ; 
hnig  they  remaiiuMi  under  lire,  hut  when  at  length  tlic 
word  was  given,  they  shouted  and  I'aii  I'orwai'il.  In  one 
of  the  divisions,  wlwii  mid-way  to  the  ciieniy  a  th'nnken 
olTn'or  ordered  a  halt;  the  exasjieraf  i  men  heswated 
to  ol)eV. 

'•  Forward,  lioys  !  "  cried  a  ]ii'ivate  f  i  tho  ranks  :  and 
the  Americans  rushed  like  tigers  upo'  'ho  enemy.  I-'our 
hniidreil  Mexicans  wore  slain  upon  tl  spot,  ami  tho  I'ost 
llo(j.  scattering  ovo)' the  plain  likes'  .p.  The  stamhird-^, 
cannon,  and   Itauuaii'o  woi'(,'  taken,  aul    amoii'^'  the    I'est   a 


M 


aiidii   laden  with  coi'ds.  which  tho   Mex 


cans.  Ill 


the  ful- 


ness of  their  confidence,  had   made    ready   for  tyiioi'  ihe 
.Vnioiicaii  prisoners. 

J)oiiiphairs  \(ihintoors.  who  gained  this  victory.  ])assod 
up  with  the  main  army:  hut  Price's  -  )ldiers.  whom  we 
now  met,  were  men  from  the  same  neighliorhood.  iirocisolv 


I   I 


J 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


I-  i  ' 


simihii-  ih  clmiiU'ter,  innnnci's,  and  ajjpcarance.  One 
nioiiiiiiL;'.  :is  \v(3  wltu  (k'secnding"  upon  a  wide  mcjidow, 
wlicre  \\r  iiiciiiil  lo  ri'sl  lur  an  luiur  <>i'  hvo,  \\v  saw  a 
hody  ol'  liorscnicn  iippi'oaeliinu'  at  a  distance.  In  order 
to  I'mkI  walcr,  we  were  ol)liged  to  turn  aside  to  tin?  fiver 
hanlv.  a  lull  liali'  mih^  from  tlie  trail.  IJei'e  we  pnt  up  a 
kind  ol"  auninu'.  and  spreadins^'  l)ul"ial(>rol)es  on  ih(3  ;^Tonnd 
Shaw  ami  i  sat  down  to  smoke. 

''  We  are  u'oinn'  to  eateh  it  now,"  said  Shaw  ;  "  h)ok  at 
those  fellows  :   there'll  he  no  ])eaee  i'or  ns  here." 

And  in  truth  aliont  hall"  the  volnnteei's  liad  strati'uled 
away  I'l'oni  ihe  line  ol"  march,  and  were  ridinj^'  over  the 
meat  low  t(.)\\ards  ns. 

•'  How  are  yon'.''"  said  the  first  wlio  came  n|).  ali,uhting 
i'l'ijm  his  horse  and  throwinu"  himself  iipou  the  i:ron)id. 
'J'he  rest  followed  close,  and  a  score  of  them  soon  uathoriMl 
aliout  ns.  some  Ivmil''  at  I'nll  leinith  and  some  sittinu'  on 
horseliack.  They  all  helong'cd  to  a  company  raised  in 
St.  lionis,  'J'luM'e  ^vere  sona^  rnnian  faces  amonii:  them, 
an<!  sonir  hauirard  with  deliauchcry  ;  Imt  on  the  whole 
tiioy  were  extremely  u'ood-lookiliu'  men,  superior  heyond 
measure  to  the  ordinary  raidc  and  lilc  of  an  army.  Ex- 
cept that  they  were  hooted  to  the  knees,  they  More  their 
Ix'lts  and  militai'y  trapping's  over  the  ordiiuiry  di'ess  of 
citizens.  Hesides  their  swords  and  holster  pistols,  they 
carrieil  slung  from  their  saddles  the  exeelleid  Spi'inglield 
carliiiies.  loadeil  at  the  hreech.  They  inquired  the  char- 
acter of  our  party,  and  weri'  anxious  to  know  the  {)ros{)ect 
of  killing  iiuffalo,  and  the  chance  that  their  horses  would 
stand  th(\jonrney  to  Santa  Fe.  All  this  was  well  enough, 
hut  a  moment  after  a  wors(>  visitation  canu!  nj)on  us. 


II 


ow 


are  voii.   strangers 'f    whar  are   von    ii'oinu'   and 


\\liar   are  you  from'.'"  said  a  iellow,  who  came  trotMng 
up  w  ith  an  old  straw  hat  on  his  head.     He  was  dressed 


DOWN    THE    ARKANSAS. 


857 


I.      One 

uciulow, 
'  saw  iv 
11  order 
lu!  rixcr 
lilt  \\\\  a 
ground 

'  look  at 

tra^\ul('il 
)V('r  tlic 

di.iililiiig 

uroimd. 

iatluMHMl 

tliiiu'  oil 
aiscd  in 
g  llicni, 
0   whole 

licyontl 
V.  '  lOx- 
)re  tlieir 

Iress  of 
)ls,  lliey 
iii>rKdd 
lie  eliar- 

)rospe(^t 
i-s  would 

enough, 

us. 

iiiu'  and 

trotting 

dressed 


n 


in  the  coarsest  brown  hoinos|tiin  eloth.  His  face  was 
rather  sallt)W  IVoin  fevoixiud-agiio,  and  his  tall  ligurc. 
though  strong  and  sinewy,  had  u  lean  angular  look,  whiclj, 
tcjgether  with  his  l>oorish  seat  on  horsol)aek.  i:a\c  him  an 
iipliearaiice  any  thing  l»ut  graeel'iil.  y\i>vr  of  the  >aine 
stani)>  were  clove  heliind  him.  Their  eoiii|ian\  was  raised 
in  one  of  the  tVontier  eoiinties.  and  wi'  soon  had  aWiindant 
evidence  of  their  nisiic  hreedinu";  Ihey  came  crowding 
round  hy  scores,  ]»nsning  hetwceii  our  lirst  visitors,  and 
staring  at  us  with  iinaliashe(|  faces. 

**  Arc  you  the  cajitaiir.'"  aske(l  one  fellow. 

"  ^Vhat's  your  luisiness  out  here  '.''  "   a^ked  aiiotlier. 

''  ^\  liar  do  yon  live  w  hen  }()irre  to  honic  ?  "  said  a  third. 

"1  rx'ckon  you're  traders,"  surmised  a  fourth:  Mud  to 
crown  the  whole,  one  of  them  'iie  conlidi'iitiallv  to  mv 
side  and  in([uired  in  a  low  voil  •.  What's  youi'  jiarlner's 
name  ?  " 

As  caeli  new  comer  repeated  the  same  ([uestions.  tlie 
nuisance  liecanie  intolei'ahle.  Our  military  \isitors  were 
soon  disgusted  at  the  concise  natuif  of  (»iir  replies,  and 
A\e  could  overhear  tliem  muttering  cui-ses.  ^Vhile  wf  sat 
smoking,  not  in  the  hest  iinaginahle  humor,  '^Fele  Ivoini'e's 
tongue  was  not  idle.  He  ncNcr  foru'ot  his  milifaiy  char- 
acter, ami  during  the  whole  interview  he  was  incessantly 
Imsy  among  liis  fellow-soldiers.  At  length  we  placed 
him  on  the  ground  lu'fore  us.  and  told  him  that  he  mii:ht 
jilay  the  jiart  of  spokesman,  'Pete  Rouge  was  delii^liicii. 
and  we  soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  si'eing  him  ualiliie  at 
such  a  rate  tliat  the  torrent  of  (piestioiis  was  in  a  Lircat 
measure  diverted  from  us.  A  little  while  a!"tei'.  a  camion 
with  four  liorscs  canu;  hniihering  up  iiehind  the  crouij  : 
and  tlic  driver,  who  was  ]ier(died  on  one  of  the  animals, 
stretching  his  neck  so  as  to  look  over  the  rest  ul'the  men. 
called  out,  — 


;}.>s 


I'lIK     OIM'.CON     lUAII, 


'•  W'liiii'  iiic  yoii  iVoin,  and  w  hut's  your  Inisiiicss  ?  " 
'Pile    caplaiii  of  (Hie  tif   llic    cumiiaiiics  was   aiinuii;   oiir 
visilnis.  ili'aw  11  \>y    the   saiin'    ciii'idsily  thai  had    at  I  laiMcd 
his  iiK'ii.      I'idfss  their  lUct's  hdiiMl  them,  imi  ;i  lew  in  the 
cfiiwd  niiulit    with  liTcat    advaiilaiic   \\;[\v    rhaiiucd    iihi 


res 


with  their  eniiiiuaiider 


W 


ell.  men,     said   lie,    la/.ilv   risinti'    innii    llie    urmini 


Ih 


w 


hell'  he  had  lieeil  hillliui  :',  "  it's  Ll'et  I  illiJ,'  hlle.  I  reekoii 
we'd   helier  lie    lli(i\  iim." 

•"  1  shan't  start  yet  anyhow,"  said  one  IrMow,  who  was 
lyiiiLi  halt'  a>h'e|)  with  his  liead  restiiiiz'  on  his  arm. 

••  hon't  lie  in  a  hurry.  Caplain,"'  added  the  lieutenant. 


W 


ell.  has  (■  it  \()iir  own  w  a\-.  wcdl  wait  a  n\  hile  loiiu'er 


replied  the  olisr([nions  eommander. 

At  leii^lh.  how  eNcr.  oiij-  visitors  went  st  raii'<alinii' away 
i\s  they  had  come,  and  we.  to  our  ureal  rcdiel'.  wei'e  left 
alone  auain. 

.No  one  was  nioi'e  relieved  tlian  Deshuiriers  hy  Ihe  de- 
j)artiire  ol'  the  \  iilnnleers  ;  lor  dinner  was  ucllinii'  eolder 
e\ery  moment.  He  spread  a  well-whitened  lniiralo-hide 
upon  the  ura^s.  placed  in  the  middle  the  Juicy  hump  ol' a 
I'al  cow.  ranueil  around  it  the  lin  plates  and  cups,  and 
then  aunoiinced  that  a,ll  was  ready,  Tete  Ixouiic,  with 
his  usual  alacrity  on  such  occasions,  was  the  (irst  to  take 
his  seat.  In  his  rormer  capacity  of  steanihoat  clerk',  he 
had  learned  to  prel'i:;  the  honorary  Mi.^lcr  to  everyhody's 
name,  w  helher  of  high  or  low  deurce  ;  so  Jim  ( Jiirney  was 
Mr.  ( Ini'iiey.  Henry  was  Mr.  Henry,  and  e\en  Deslaiiriei's, 
for  the  lirst    time  in    his  lil'e,  heai'(l  liimsell'  adilressed  as 


y\v.  Heslauriers. 


\'lolent     elimi 


Tl 


lis  did  not  pre\eiit   his  conceiving  a, 


t_\  against  Tote  Rouge,  who,  in  his  i'utile 
tliough  praiseworthy  attempts  to  make  liimselt'  useful, 
used  always  to  inteiineddle  with  cooking  the  dinners. 
Deslauriers's  disposition  knew  no  medium  lietween  smiles 


Ilk 


W'j:  n\\;iy 


DOWN    TIIK    ARKANSAS. 


:i")!) 


:ui*l  siiiisliiiic  iiiid  :i  dou  iii'iulil  Inniiulo  of  u nil  li  :  lie  sii'kI 
iinlhiiiu'  III  Tell'  Ifoiivr,  liiit  Ilis  urmins  nmklcil  in  his 
lilTiisl.  Trli!  Iluii'21'  llilil  lllkcli  liis  idiicc  ;it  iliiiiicr;  il, 
\v;is  Ilis  li;i|i|i",('st  iiiDiiiciil  ;  lie  s;it  ciiv  rli)|ic(|  in  llic  oM 
ItMrrnlo-coiit,  sirrvi's  lin'ncil  n|)  in  |iic|i;iiiiti(»n  Ww  tlir  wnrk, 
iind  Ilis  slioi'l  l(';is  crossed  on  tlic  ui'jiss  licrorc  liini  ;  Ik; 
li;id  II  ('ii|»  of  coriiM'  iiy  his  side  iiiid  his  knil'r  ready  in  his 
h:ind,!iiid    while    he   looked    iipon    llie    I'al    liiinij)  I'ilis,  his 


'eslaiii'iers  sat 


oi'Mosite  to 


eyes  dila,te(|  with  antieipat  ion. 

him,  and  the  rest  of   iis  \\v  this  lime  had  taken  our  seat: 


lo\S      IS 


this,    Deslaiii 


lei's 


^'on    lia\en't.   uiscii    ii.> 


hread    elioinill. 


At  this  I  >eslam'iers'  placid  face  Ih'W  into  a  paroxysm 
of  contoi'lions.  lit;  '.grinned  with  wrath,  eliat  ten'(|.  trestio 
nlated,  and  hurled  forth  a  volley  of  ineohereiil  words  in 
hrokeii  l']njj;li>h  at  the  astonislie(|  Tele  [{oiiuc  it  was 
just  possihle  to  make  out  that  he  was  aeeiisinu'  him  of 
haviniJ,'  stolen  and  eaten  fonr  lar^c  cakes  which  had  heeii 
laid  l»y  for  dinner.  Tcte  IJoiiiie,  conlonniled  at  this  sud- 
den attack,  stareil  at  his  assailant  for  a  moment  in  diimh 
aina/.emen*.  with  month  and  eyes  wide  open.  At  last  ho 
louiid  s|)eech,  anil  pi'otesteil  that  the  accusation  was  rals(!; 
and  that  he  c(Mild  not  concei\e  how  he  had  olli'iided  Mr 
Deshiiiriers.  or  provoked  him  to  use  such  unu'eiitlemanly 
cxpi'cssions.  The  tempest  of  woi'ds  rau'cd  with  >iicli  I'liry 
that  iKjthinu'  else  eonld  he  heard,  lint  Tete  IJoii^e  from 
his  ereater  command  ol'  I"]n^li>h  had  a  manifest  advan- 
tage ovei'  I)eslanri(M's,  who,  after  s]iiitt(,'rinu- ami  grimacing 
for  a  while,  lonnd  his  words  (piitc  inadecjuate  to  the  ex- 
pression of  his  wrath.  Jle  /pimped  np  and  \aiii>hed, 
jerking  out  lietween  his  teeth  one  furious  .sv/r/v'  (iij'<inf  ile 
ijurci' !  a  Canadian  title  (if  honor,  made  douhly  emphatic 
hy  heing  usually  a[iplied  together  with  a  cut  of  the  whip 
to  refractory  mules  and  horses. 


Iff 


iH 


y>^ 


"^" 


nno 


Till"-    OUlKiON    'I'UAIL. 


'  I 


I 


Tlic  next  moriiiiiii'  we  siiw  ;m  olil  Imlliilo  Imll  cscoi'liiin; 
liis  citw  with  (wo  siuiill  ciiKcs  over  tlir  priiiric.  CIdsc 
licliiiid  ciiinc  lour  or  live  lariK-  white  wolves,  siieiikiiij^ 
steiillliily  tlironiili  llie  loiiu"  lue.'ulow-ji'riiss,  niid  Wiilcliiiiy 
foi'  the  luoiueiit  when  one  of  the  children  should  chiiiict^ 
to  hiu  liehind  his  piii'euts.  The  old  hidl  ke|ti  well  ou  his 
ti'iiiird,  :ind  fnced  ;diout  now  and  tlicn  to  keep  the  ju'ow  ling* 
rul'lians  at  a  distance. 

As  we  a|i|troa(die(l  oui"  noonin,t!"-place,  we  saw  fi\('  or  .six 
hulTalo  standin.u'  at  thi'  sunnuit  of  a  tall  hhili'.  'I'rottiii^ 
I'orwai'd  to  the  spot  whei"e  we  meant  to  slop,  1  flunu'  olf 
my  saddle  and  tui'iied  my  horse  loose.  \\\  making'  a  cir- 
cuit under  cover  of  some  I'lsinu'  iii'ound,  I  readied  the 
foot  of  the  lihilf  uini(»ticed,  and  (dinilied  up  its  stec]) 
side.  Lyinu"  under  the  hi-ow  of  tlie  decli\ity,  1  prej)ared 
to  lire  at  tlie  l)urralo.  who  stood  on  the  Hat  surl'ace  ahove, 
not  live  yards  distant.  The  uleaminu'  rifle-hari'el  loNcdlcd 
ov(>r  the  edLiC  I'autiht  their  notice,  and  they  tiirne(l  and 
ran.  (Hose  as  they  were,  it  was  impossilile  to  kill  them 
when  in  tliat  position,  and  stepping'  upon  the  summit,  1 
pursued  tlu-m  onci"  the  Inuli  arid  tahle-land.  It  was  ex- 
tremely ruii'i:('d  and  broken;  a  u'reat  sandy  ravine  was 
channelled  throuuli  it,  witli  smaller  ravines  enleriiiL!,'  on 
cacli  side,  like  ti'ihutary  streams.  Tlie  ladTalo  scattered, 
and  1  soon  h»st  sig'lit  of  most  of  tliem  as  they  scuttled 
away  tlu-ouuh  the  sandy  chasms  ;  a  Itull  and  a  cow  alone 
kept  in  view.  For  a  while  they  ran  ah)nu'  the  edu'e  of  the 
fi'reat  ravine,  appearing  and  disa[)pearin,iL;'  as  they  dived 
into  some  cliasm  and  apiin  omerti'ed  iVom  it.  At  last 
they  stretched  out  npon  the  hroad  prairie,  a  plain  nearly 
flat  and  almost  tlevoiil  of  verdure,  for  every  short  grass- 
blade  was  dried  and  shrivelled  liv  the  u'laring  sun.  Now 
and  then  the  old  bull  would  face  towards  me  ;  ■wlicnevcr 
he  did  so  I  fell  to  the  ground  and  lay  motionless.     In 


':  1 


F^ 


DOWN     THi:     AIIKANSAS. 


lUll 


lliis  iniiiiiK'i-  I  cliiiscd  tliciii  I'm'   filioiit   Juo   miles,  until   ;il 


Iciiulli 


hciinl    III    li'Diit 


(ll'»'|»    lid.'irsc    iK'Houiii 


A 


iiiniiuMit    iit'lrr.  ii    liiuiil    of  jilidiit    ;i    ImiidnMl    Imlls,  liclnrc 

liiddcii  li_\   ;i  x^iiiiiit  swell  of  tlic    plain,  ciimc   mI    diirc   into 

view,     'riie  rii'jitivcs  ran  towards  them.      Inslmd  of  inin- 

^iinir"  willi    tin-   liaiid,  as  I   cxiMM'trd.  Ilicy  passiMJ    directly 

lliroii'jli.  and  eoiit  iiiiied   tlieir  tliulit,      .\t    this    1    Lia\e   ii|> 

the   chase,  crawled    tit   within    liiin-shot    of  the    hulls,  and 

sat  down  oil  the  utomiuI  to  watch  tliem.      My  |ireseii<'e  did 

liol  distnrh  tlieiii    ill    the    least.      'I'hey    were    not     tecdinu', 

I'or  there  was   iiothiiiii'   to   cat  :   hnt    they  seenic(l    to   have 

chosen    the    |i;M'chcd    and   scorchinii'  desert    as  tlieii'|ilay- 

t:roiiiid.       Some    were     pollinii-    on    the     uronnd     amid    a 

chmd   (»r  dust  :  others,  with   a    lioarse    riimhliii'j'    licllow, 

were    hiittinu'    their    lame    heads    toLietlier,    wliile    many 

stfiod  motionless,   as   il"   (|uite   inanimate.       M\ce|it    their 

monstrous    t:rowth    of   taniiled    u'riz/ly    mane,   tliey   liad 

no  hair:   lor  their  old   coat    had   lallen   off  in   the  sprin-j,', 

ami  their  new  one  had  not   as  yet  appeared.     Sometimes 

an   ohl   hull   would   step   l'or\\ar(l.  and   Li'a/e  at    me  with   a 

g'rim  and  stupid  countenance;   tlien  he  would  turn  and 

liutt  liis  next  nciu'lihor  ;  then  lie  would  lie  down   and   roll 

over   in   tlio  dust,  kicdcint:'  his  liools  in   the  air.     When 

satislied  with  tliis  nmnsement.  lie   would  jerk    his  head 

and  slionldors  n])ward.  and  restiim-  on   his   forele'js.  stai'O 

at  me  in  tliis  position,  lialf  Minded  Wy  his  mane,  and   his 

l'a('(>  coNcred  with  dirt;  then  up  he  would  spring'  upon  all 

fours,  shake  his  dusty  sides,  turn   lialf  round,  and    stand 

with  his  heard  touchinu'  the  u'roiiiid.  in  an  attitude  of  pro- 

fonnd  ahstraction.  as  if  r(>flectin!j:'  on  his  ]nierile  conduct. 

'•  You  are  too  uu'ly  to  live,"'  thouti'ht  I  ;   and  aimiici'  at  the 

n<iliest,    1    shot  throe  of   them    in  snccpssion.     'i'he   rest 

wore  not  at  all  discomposed  at  tins  ;  thoy  kept  on  hellow- 

ing,  butting,  and  rolling  on  the  ground  as  before.     Henry 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1^  |2.8 


2.5 


ii^ 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4    1 1.6 

6" 

► 

V] 


<^ 


/}. 


^;. 


7 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


73  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


i/.i 


3(;'2 


THE    ORKGON    TRAIL. 


f  '!  i 


li:^! 


rii 


"!1 


Chatilloii  nlwnys  cautionod  us  to  koop  jiciTcctly  quiet  in 
the  |)ii'S('iic(i  of  a  wouikIlmI  hull'alo,  lor  any  movcnuMit  is 
a|»t  to  cxcilc  liini  to  niak(!  an  attack  ;  so  1  sat  still  upon 


tl 


II'    U' 


•ouiid,  loadiim'  and   lii-inji;  with   as  little  nioti(»n  a^ 


]>ossil)l('.  While  1  was  thus  employed,  a  spectator  niadi; 
liis  appearance:  a  little  antelope  came  runninii'  up  to 
within  lifly  yai'ds ;  and  there  it  stood,  its  slender  neck 
ai'ched,  its  small  horns  thrown  hack,  and  its  larue  dark 
eves  u'azinii'  on  mo  with  a  look  of  oa";er  curiositv.  \ly 
the  side  of  the  sha,<x<i'y  and  l>rutish  monsters  bel'oi'e  me,  it 
seemed  like  some  lovely  yomi<>;  uirl  in  a  ilvn  of  rohhers  or 
a  nest  of  hearded  i»irates.  The  hnri'alo  looked  uuliei-  than 
ever.  "  Ii(M'e  uoes  for  another  of  you,"  thouiiht  J.  fecliiim' 
in  my  pouch  for  a  percussion-cap.  Not  a  })ercussion-cap 
was  there.  My  uood  rUle  was  useless  as  an  old  iron  har. 
One  of  the  wounded  hulls  had  not  yet  fallen,  and  I  waited 
for  some  time,  hoj)iim'  every  moment  that  liis  strenuth 
would  fail  him.  lie  still  stood  fn-m,  looking  grimly  at 
me,  and  disreuarding  Henry's  advice,  I  rose  and  walked 
away.  ^Nfany  of  the  hulls  turned  and  looke<l  at  me,  hut 
the  wounded  hrutc  made  no  attack.  1  sijon  came  up(^ii  a 
deep  ravine  which  would  give  mo  shelter  in  case  of  emer- 
gency; so  1  turned  round  and  threw  a  stone  at  the  hulls. 
Thev  received  it  with  the  utmost  indilference.  Feelintr 
myself  insulted  at  their  refusal  to  he  frightened,  I  swung 
my  hat,  shouted,  and  made  a  show  of  rimning  towards 
them:  at  this  they  crowded  together  and  galloped  off, 
leaving  their  dead  and  wounded  upon  the  field.  As  1 
moved  towards  the  camp  I  saw  the  last  survivor  totter 
and  fall  dead.  ]\ry  s])eed  in  returning  was  wonderfully 
quit'kened  hy  the  reflection  that  the  Pawnees  were  abroad, 
and  that  I  was  defenceless  in  case  of  meeting  with  an 
enemy.  1  saw  no  living  thing,  however,  except  two  or 
three  s(iualid  old  Imlls  scrambling  among  the  sand-hills 


DOWN     THE    ARKANSAS. 


3():3 


that  fliinkctl  tlio  <rvoi\\  i-aviiic.  When  I  ivacliod  cani[)  the 
]»arly  wvw  nearly  ready  l"<>r  tl»e  al'tei'iiooii  move. 

We  cMcaiupcd  that  cveiiint^  at  a  shoit  distance  fVom 
the  river  hank.  Ahont  miihiig'ht,  as  \vv  all  lay  asleep  on 
the  gronnd,  the  man  nearest  to  me,  ucntly  I'eachinti;  out 
his  hand,  touched  my  shoulder,  iuid  eaulioned  me  at  the 
same  time  not  to  move,  it  was  l)riuht  starlight.  Opeii- 
inu'  my  eyes  and  sliuhtly  turniiiiz',  1  siiw  a  hiruc  white 
woll'  mo\in,u'  stealthily  around  the  emhers  of  (^nr  lire, 
with  his  nose  close  to  the  u'ronnd.  DisentiJiuinii'  my  hand 
from  the  hlanket,  I  drew  the  cover  from  my  ritle.  which 
hiy  close  at  my  side  ;  the  motion  alurnuMl  the  wolf,  and 
with  lonu"  leaps  he  houmled  out  of  the  camp.  .Inmj)int^ 
up,  1  fired  after  him,  when  he  was  about  thirty  yards  dis- 
tant ;  the  melancholy  luim  of  the  hullet  sounded  far  away 
throuLih  tlie  niuht.  At  the  sharp  report,  so  snd<lenly 
breaking  upon  the  stillness,  all  the  men  sprang  up. 

''You've  killed  him,"  said  one  of  them. 

'•  Xo  I  haven't,"  said  I ;  "  there  lie  goes,  running  along 
the  river." 

'"  Then  thei'e's  two  of  them.  Don't  you  see  that  one 
Iving  out  vonder  ?  " 

We  went  (»nt  to  it.  and  instead  of  a  dead  white  wolf, 
found  the  Ideached  skull  of  a  bulTalo.  I  had  missed  my 
mark',  and  what  was  worse  had  grossly  violated  a  stand- 
ing law  of  the  prairie.  When  in  a  dangerous  part  of  tiic 
country,  it  is  considered  highly  imprudent  to  fii'e  a  gun 
after  encamping,  lest  the  report  should  reach  the  eais  of 
Indians. 

'J'he  horses  were  saddleil  in  the  morning,  and  the  last 
man  had  lighted  liis  i)ipe  at  the  dying  ashes  ol  the  fire. 
The  beauty  of  the  day  enlivened  us  all.  Even  Ellis  felt 
its  influence,  and  occasionally  mad*'  a  I'cmark  as  we  I'ode 
alonti',  and  Jim  Gurnev  told  endless  stories  of  his  cruis- 


I]()l 


'II IK    OIUXJON    TUAir. 


in<i"s    ill    ilic    riiilcMl    Slalos    scrv 


ice 


Til 


iiirr;il()    were 


aliuiidiinl,  iiiid  !i.t  IciiLilh  ji  laruc  hiiiid  of  tliciii  went  nm- 
iiiiiu'  up  lilt'  liills  on  llic  Icl't. 

'•  Too  <i()()(l  ji,  clinnco  1o  los(>,"  said  Sliinv.  AVr  laslicd  our 
horses  and  ^alloiicd  al'tcrilu'iu.  Shaw  killed  one  with  ciudi 
barrel  of  liis  mun.  1  se]»arated  another  iVoin  ilie  herd 
nnd  shot  him.  The  siiuill  laiUet  of  the  rifle-|tistol  sliik- 
iiiLi'  too  I'ar  hack  did  not  imniediately  take  ei'leet.  and  the 
hull  ran  on  with  unahated  speed.  Auaiii  and  auaiii  1 
snapjied  the  reniainiiii;-  j)istol  at  him.  J  primed  it  alVesh 
three  or  I'onr  times,  and  each  time  it  missed  lire,  lor  the 
touehdiole  was  eloii'ti'ed  np.  Ixetiirniiiu'  it  to  the  holster, 
1  began  to  load  the  empty  ]»istol,  still  galloping  by  the 
side  of  the  bull.  I>y  this  time  he  had  grown  desperate. 
'J'he  foam  th'W  i'rom  his  jaws  and  his  tongue  lolled  out. 
Before  the  jiistol  was  loaded  he  sprang  upon  me,  and 
followeil  up  his  attack  with  a  hirions  rush.  The  only 
alternative  was  to  run  awav  or  lie  killed.    1  took  to  lliiiht. 


and    the    bull,  bristlinj 


wi 


th    fi 


irv 


jnirsued    me    c 


loseb 


The  pistol  was  soon  ready,  and  then  looking  back  1  saw 
his  head  five  (h-  six  yards  behind  my  horse's  tail.  To 
fire  at  it  would  be  useless,  for  a  bullet  flattens  against  the 
adamantine  skull  of  a  buffalo  bull.  Inclining  my  body  to 
the  lel>,  1  turned  my  horse  in  that  direction  as  sharjily 
as  his  speed  would  permit.  The  bull  rushing  blindly  on 
with  great  force  and  weight  did  not  turn  so  quickly.  As 
I  looked  back,  his  neck  and  shoulder  were  ex])osed  to 
view;  and,  turning  in  the  saddle,  1  shot  a  bullet  through 
them  ol)li(iuely  into  his  vitals.  He  gave  over  the  chase 
anil  soon  fell  to  the  groimd.  An  English  tourist  rejire- 
sents  a  situation  like  this  as  one  of  imminent  danger; 
this  is  a  mistake  :  the  bull  never  pursues  long,  and  the 
horse  must  be  wretched  indeed  that  cannot  keep  out  of 
his  way  for  two  or  three  minutes. 


!  M 


DOWN    THK    ARKANSAS. 


3G5 


Wc  wciv  now  como  lo  ii  jcirl  of  llu;  couiilry  wlicrc  wo 
were  1m)iiii(1  in  cojiunon  priKlciicc  lo  us(!  every  possililc 
pi'eciuilioii.  We  inoiiiiled  iiiiard  at.  iiiulit,  eaeli  uiau 
slamliim'  in  liis  Inrn  ;  and  no  <ine  evei-  sle|)t  witlioni 
di'awinL:'  his  lille  close  to  his  siiU;  oi"  t'oldin;^"  it  witli  him 
in  his  hhinkel.  One  niorninu;  our  viLiihinci!  was  stimu- 
hited  hy  liiidinii'  ( raees  of  a  htrtiv  ('amanche  en('ani|iiuent. 
F(trtiniately  t'oi-  us,  liowcNcr,  it  had  heen  ahandoned 
neaiiy  a  weeic.  On  th(^  next  excninji;  wc;  lonnd  the 
ashes  of  a  recent  lire,  whi(di  i:av(^  us  at  the  time  some 
nneasiiiess.  At  U-nuth  we  reaidied  the  Caches,  ji  j)hice 
of  ihinu'crous  I'cpute ;  and  it  had  a  most  (hinucrous 
apjx'ai'ance,  eonsistin"'  ol'  sand-liills  everywhere  Iti'okeu 
hy  ra\ines  and  de<'|»  clnisms.  Jleic  we  I'ound  tlie  grave 
of"  Swan,  killed  at  this  place,  prohal)ly  hy  the  Pawnees, 
two  or  three  weeks  hel'ore.  His  remains,  more  than  once 
violated  hy  the  Indians  and  the  wolves,  were  snlTered  at 
leniith  to  remain  nndisturhed  in  theii-  wild  Imrial-plaee. 

Foi'  several  days  we  met  detached  companies  ol"  i*rice\s 
resiiment.  Horses  would  often  hreak  loose  at  niuht  from 
their  eaniits.  One  afternoon  we  picked  up  three  of  these 
stragglers  (juietly  grazinii,'  along  the  riv(M-.  After  we  came 
to  eamp  that  eveni 


nu' 


05 


J 


im 


( 


lurnev  hroULiht    news   that 


inoi'e  of  them  were  in  sight.  It  was  nearly  dark,  and  a 
eold,  drizzling  rain  had  set  in  ;  hut  we  all  turned  out,  and 
after  an  hour's  el)ase  nine  liorses  were  caught  and  hronght 
in.  One  of  them  was  equipped  with  saddle  and  hridle  ; 
pistols  were  hanging  at  the  i)ommel  of  the  saddle,  a  ear- 
bine  was  slung  at  its  sid(>,  and  a  hlaid^et  rolled  up  behind 
it.  In  the  morning,  as  we  resume(l  our  Journey,  our  cav- 
aleade  presented  a  nnieh  more  imposing  appcaranee  than 
ever  before.  AVe  kept  (in  till  the  afternoon,  when,  far 
beliind,  tlirec  horsemen  a])peared  on  the  horizon.  Com- 
ing on  at    a   hand-galloj),  they    soon    overtook    us,   and 


It 

1 

4 
1 

; 

h  ■ 

;!l' 


W- 


pi  i 

(in 


r^'H 


3G() 


Tin:  oui:(iON   trail. 


claimed  all  tlio  liorscs  as   licloiiuiiifi;  to  tluMusclvos  aiul 
otliri's  of  their  ('(unpany.     Tlioy  wcru  of  course  I'iven  up, 


very  nuu'li  to  tl;e  uiort ideation  of  KUis  and  .'iui  (Juruev 


Our  own  horses  now  showed    siii'us  of  fati<jue.  and 


we 


resolved  to  give  them  half  a  (hiy's  rest.  We  sto|»jKM!  at 
noon  at  a  '••i-assy  spot  hy  the  river.  After  dinner  Shaw 
and  Jlenry  went  out  to  hunt  ;  and  while  the  men  Inunued 
ahout  the  camp,  1  lay  down  to  read  in  the  sluulow  of  the 
.  eai't.  Ijookinti'  up,  I  saw  a  hull  ora/ino;  alone  on  the 
prairie  more  than  a  mile  distant,  and  takin<i:  my  ritle  I 
walked  towards  him.  As  1  came  near,  1  ei-awled  upon 
the  ground  until  I  approached  to  within  a  hundred  yards; 
hei'C  I  sat  down  upon  the  tii'ass  an<l  waited  till  he  should 
turn  himself  into  a  j)roper  jtosition  to  I'Ceeive  his  death- 
wouiul.  ife  was  a  u'rim  old  vetei'an.  His  loves  and  his 
hattles  were  over  for  that  season,  and  now,  u'aunt  and 
war-worn,  he   had  withdrawn  IVom  the  herd  to  u'ra/.e  hv 


11 


e    was 


liimself  and  it'eruit  his  exhausted  strenji'th. 
miserahly  emaciated:  his  mane  was  all  in  tatters:  his 
hide  was  hare  and  rouuh  as  an  elephant's,  and  covered 
with  di-ied  patches  of  the  nuid  in  which  he  liad  heen  wal- 
lowinii".  He  showed  all  his  I'ihs  whenever  he  moved.  He 
lookcMl  like  some  grizzly  old  ruffian  urown  tiray  in  hlood 
and  violence,  aiul  seowlinu"  on  all  the  world  from  liis  mis- 
anthropic seclusion.  The  old  savaire  looked  up  when  I 
first  ap|)roached,  and  pive  me  a  fierce  stare:  then  he  fell 
to  grazing  again  with  an  air  of  contemptuous  indiffereiu'c. 
'I'he  moment  aHer,  as  if  suddenly  recollecting  himstdf,  hr 
thi'ew  u])  his  head,  faced  (juickly  al)Out,  and  to  my  anuize- 
ment  came  at  a  rajtid  ti'ot  directly  towai'ds  me.  I  was 
strongly  impelled  to  get  up  and  rim,  hut  this  would  have 
been  very  dangerous.  Sitting  (piite  still,  I  aimed,  as  lie 
came  on,  at  the  thin  ])art  of  the  skull  ahove  the  nose, 
hoping  that  the  shot  might  have  the  ellect  of  turning  him. 


iii; 


DOWN    Tin:    ARKANSAS. 


M 


)  ( 


After  he  liail  passctl  dvcr  iilioiit    (lii('t'-(|iiiirU'rs  of  tlii'  dis- 


UlMi 


('('  hclwccii  us.  I  WHS  oil  llic  point  ol  liriiiLi",  when,  to 
my  tzii'Mt  Silt isfiU't ion.  he  stopjKMl  short.  1  hml  full  op- 
iiorlunitv  of  stiidvinu'  his  connlunfinee  ;  his  whole  front 
w;is  eoNcred  with  a  h.iijre  muss  of  I'oai'se  malted  Iniir, 
whi<di  liunu'  so  hiw  that  iiothiii'''  hut  his  two  forefeet  were 


visihl 


e    bene 


itl 


I   it 


his  short   thiek   hi»rns    were    hhi:ite(l 


and  s|ilit  to  tlie  very  roots  in  his  various  liattles.  and 
aeross  his  nose  and  I'orehead  were  two  or  three  hir,ii(! 
white  sea,rs,  whicdi  nave  him  a  iirim.  and  at  the  siimu 
time  a  whimsical  appearance.  It  seemed  to  me  that  ho 
stood  there  motionless  for  a  full  quarter  of  an  hour  stiir- 
inu' at  me  throuLih   tlu;  taimled   locks  of  Ids  mane.      JA)r 


my  part.  1  remaineil  as  (|niet  as  lie,  and  looked  (piite  as 
hard.  1  t'elt  ureatly  iiudined  to  come  to  terms  with  him. 
"My  friend."  tlioiiuht  1,  ••  if  you'll  let  me  off.  I'll  let  you 
ft."      At  leiiutli  lie  seeme(l  to  have  ahaiidoiied  anv  hostile 


o 


desiii'ii.  \'ery  slowly  and  delil)erately  he  heuau  to  turn 
about:  little  hy  little  his  side  came  into  view,  all  lie- 
})lastered  with  mud.  It  was  a  temptiuLL'  si^iit.  I  foruot 
my  prudent  intentions,  and  lired  my  rille  ;  a  ]tistol  would 
have  serve(l  at  that  distance.  The  old  hull  spun  round 
like  a  top,  and  tiallopeil  away  over  the  jtrairie.  He  lan 
some  distance,  and  e\('ii  ascended  a  eonsiderat»le  hill,  he- 
fore  he  lav  down  and  died.  After  shootinu'  another  hull 
amonti'  the  hills.  I  went  \y.\ck  to  eamj). 

At  iKtoii,  on  the  fourteenth  of  Septeniher.  a  very  larn'e 
Santa  Fe  caravan  came  up.  The  plain  was  coNcrt'd  with 
the  lonu"  files  of  their  white-topped  waii'ons.the  (dose  Mack 
carria.tivs  in  whitdi  the  traders  travel  and  sleep,  larp; 
droves  (d' mules  and  horses,  and  men  on  iiorsehaek  and  on 
foot.  They  all  stopped  on  the  meadow  near  us.  Our  di- 
minutive cart  and  handful  of  men  made  hut  an  insiLiiiilicant 
fi!j;ure  hv  tlie  side  of  their  wide  and  hustling-  camp.     Tete 


^GH 


Tin:   oiuxioN   trail. 


Rouj^o  wont  to  visit  tliom,  iuul  somi  ciuik'  liiick  witli  halt' 
u  dozen  liisciiit  in  one  liaml,  and  a  Itolllc  ol'  lu'andy  in 
the  olIuT.  1  in(|nii»'(l  where  he  ji'ot  them.  "  Oh,"  said 
Tete  Itoniic,  '•  1  l<no\v  sonu;  ol'tlie  traders.      Dr.  Dohhs  is 


there  hesid 


es. 


1  asla'tl  who  Dr.  Doiihs  niiiilit  h 


One 


ot"  nnr  St.  Loiiis  doetoi's,*"  I'eplieil  Tete  Ivoiiiie.  For  two 
ihivs  nasi  1  had  lieeii  severely  aitael<e(l  hy  ihc^  same  dis- 
or(h'r  which  had  so  iii-eatly  reihieed  my  sti-eni>lli  wlien  at 
the  nionntains  ;  al  this  lime  1  was  sul'leiinij,'  not  a  litth) 
from  pain  and  weakness,  Tete  Ronu'e,  in  answer  to  my 
iiKpiiries.  deidai-e  1  that  Di'.  Dol)i)S  was  a  physician  ol'  llio 
lirst  standing'.  Witliont  at  all  helieyinu'  him,  I  I'esolved 
to  consnlt  this  eminent  practitioner.  Walking'  oyer  to 
the  camp,  I  i'onnd  him  lyin.ii'  sonnd  asleep  undei'  one  of 
the  wa,i2.(nis.      He  oilered  in  his  own  peison  hut  indil'lerent 


evidence  ol  his  skill,  ior  it  Avas  live  months  siiici 


1  had 


seen  so  cadaverous  a  face.  His  hat  had  rallen  otH',  and 
liis  yellow  hair  ^vas  all  in  disorder;  one  ol"  his  arms  su]»- 
])lied  the  place  ol"  a  ])illow  ;  his  trousers  ^ye^G  \vrinkled 
liair  way  up  to  his  knees,  and  he  was  covered  with  little 
hits  of  izrass  and  straw  upon  which  he  liad  rolled  in  his 
uneasy  slumber.  A  Mexican  stood  near,  and  1  made  him 
a  siu'ii  to  touch  the  doctor.  U}>  s})ran<^'  the  learned  Dohhs, 
and  silting  upright  nibbed  liis  eyes  and  looked  about  him 
in  bewilderment.  I  regretted  the  necessity  of  disturbing 
liim,  and  said  I  had  come  to  ask  ])rol'essional  advice. 

'•  Your  system,  sir,  is  in  a  disordered  state,"  said  he, 
solemnly,  alter  a  sliort  examination. 

1  iiKpiired  what  might  be  the  particular  species  of  dis- 
order. 


"  Evidently  a  morbid  action  of  the  liver,"  replied  the 
medical  man  ;  ^'I  will  give  you  a  jirescription." 

Repairing  to  the  back  of  one  of  the  covered  wagons,  he 
scrambled  in  :  for  a  moment  I  could  sec  nt)thing  of  him 


:i!l^ 


DOWN    Tin:    ARKANSAS. 


3GJ) 


■li 


■ 


t 


but  his  hoots.      At  h'liuth  he  |ii'o(hu'('(|  ii  Itox  whieli  hi'  had 


cxtractod  (Voiii  some  dark  ircc 


ss  within,  and,  o|>(Mnii,i:"  it, 


)»i'('scntc'd  me  with  a  I'nhk'd  iiajior.     "What  is  it 
••  Calomel,"  said  the  dctetor. 


salt 


1  1. 


L  nder  the  eireiimstai 


lees 


1 


Wnll 


Id 


ha\('    taken    alniost 


anv  ihimi'.     There  was  not  eno mh  to  d(t  me  mneli  haiin. 


iiid  it 


miii'ht    possihly  do  ^'ood  ;  so  at   canni 


that 


ni 


dil    1 


totik  the  poison  instead  (d' snj»|iei'. 

'I'hal  eamp  is  worthy  of  iiotiee.  'i'h  '  tradi-rs  warned 
us  not  to  Inllow  the  main  trail  alonti'  the  ri\er,  ••  indess," 
as  one  of  them  ohsei'ved.  ''you  want  to  haxc  yonr  throats 
cut  I  "  The  river  ar  this  plaee  makes  a  licnd  ;  and  a 
smaller  trail,  known  as  ••  the  Kid^c-puth."  leads  directly 
aerosstlu'  prairie  IVom  poiid  to  point,  a  distance  oi"  sixty 
or  seN'enty  miles. 

We  I'ollowed  this  trail,  and  after  travelling'  seven  or 
ei.ii'ht  miles  came  to  a  small  stream,  where  we  eneampi-d. 
(_)ur  position  was  not  i'hos(>ii  with  nuich  forethought  or 
militai-y  skill.  'I'he  watei'  was  in  a  deep  hoihtw,  with 
steep,  high  hanks  ;  on  the  grassy  hottoin  of  this  hollow  we 
picketed  our  horses,  while  we  ourscdves  eneampeil  ujion  tlie 
barren  prairie  Just  aliove.  TIk'  opportunity  was  admiraide 
either  for  driving  off  oin*  horses  ov  attacking  us,  Aftei' 
dark,  as  Tete  Rouge  was  sitting  at  supper,  we  ohserveil  him 
])ointing  with  a  face  of  speechless  hoi-roroxer  the  shoulder 
of  Henry,  who  was  opposite  to  him.  Aloof  amid  the  dark- 
n(>ss  appeai'etl  a  gigantic  black  a|)parition,solenndy  swaying 
to  and  fro  as  it  advanced  steadily  upon  us.  Ib'urv.  half 
vexed  and  half  annised,  jumped  uj»,  spread  out  his  arms, 
and  shouted.  The  invader  was  an  old  ItulTalo-bnll.  who, 
with  characteristic  stuimlitv,  was  walkinu'  direct Iv  into 
camj).  It  cost  some  shouting  and  swinging  of  hats  l)efore 
we  could  bring  him  lirst  to  u  halt  and  then  to  a  ra}iid 
retreat. 

2i 


m 


rr^ 


:n() 


Tin;    OKKCION    TI{.\II» 


Tlic  iiKMiii  wiis  full  iiiid  Wii^ilit  ;  Itiit  iis  i]n)  liliirk  clcdids 
cIiusimI  rapidly  mor  it,  wv  wori'  al  oiu;  moniciit  in  ijnlii 
and  al  tiic  next  in  darkness.  As  liio  cvcninu"  advanced, 
a  tliunder-stonn  eanu;  n|»  an<l  slrnidv  nswilli  siicli  violciiee 
that  tlie  tent  wunid  liave  lieen  lilown  ovei'  il'  we  had  not 
intei|t<»sei|  the  eart  to  itreak  the  force  ol'  the  winch  At, 
leniitli  it  snlisided  to  a  steady  rain.  I  hiy  awake  thioiiuh 
neai'ly  the  wliolc;  nij^ht,  hstenini;  to  its  (hdl  |iatter  npon 
the  can\as  ahoxc.  'IMu;  nioistni'e,  which  liUeil  the  teni 
and  ti'iekied  IVoni  esciy  thin^i'  in  it,  did  not  iidd  to  llic 
conil'ort  of  the  sitnation.  Ahont  twelve  o'elocd-c  Shaw- 
went  ont  to  stand  u'narcl  amid  the  rain  and  pittdiy  dai'k- 
ness.  Miinroe  was  also  on  the  ah'rt.  When  ahont  two 
honrs  had  )iass«'d,  Shaw  came  silently  in,  and,  tonching 
Henry,  called  to  him  in  a  low  ((nick  voice  to  eome  out. 
"'  What  is  it  ?"  I  asked.  '•  Indians,!  l)elieve,"  whis))erod 
Shaw  :  -  imt  lie  still ;   I'll  call  you  if  there's  a  finht." 

lie  and  I  ferny  went  out  together.  I  took  the  cover 
frctm  my  i-itle,  jint  a  I'resh  percussion-cap  upon  it,  and 
then,  lieinu'  in  nnich  pain,  lay  down  a<;ain.  In  ahont  live 
mimit(>s  Shaw  returned.  '•  All  I'ight,"  he  said,  as  la;  lay 
down  to  sl(>ej».  Henry  was  now  standing'  guard  in  his 
place.  He  told  me  in  the  morning  the  })articulars  of  the 
alarm.  Munroe's  watchful  eve  liad  discovered  some  dark 
ohjects  down  in  the  hollow,  among  the  horses,  like  men 
crcepinu'  on  all-fours.  Lvinu:  Hat  on  their  faces,  he  and 
Shaw  crawled  to  the  edge  of  the  hank,  and  were  soon  con- 
vinced that  these  dark  ohjects  were  Indians.  Sluuv  silently 
withdi-ew  to  call  Henry,  and  they  all  lay  watching  in  the 
same  jjosition.  Jfenry's  eye  is  one  of  the  hest  on  the 
prairie.  Ug  detected  after  a  while  the  true  nature  of 
the  intruders  ;  they  were  nothing  hut  wolves  creeping 
among  the  horses. 

It  is  very  singular  that,  when  picketed  near  a  camp. 


i  ;    .  ; 

.'  Ml 


DOWN    THE    ARKANSAS. 


ISIOII. 


horsos  scliloni  show  any  IVar  ol'  siu;li  an  iiitn 
wolves  a|.|H'ar  to  have  no  .,(lirr  (»l,j,.,.t  tl,.,„  tlmt  ..f  n 
iii^i;  tlio  fniil-ropcs  <»1"  raw  liidc  l,v  uliidi  ll 


:371 


'I'll 


naw- 


K'  aiimials  are 


secured 


1 


^evt'ial  limes  in   ih,.  course  of  tli,.  journey  my 
»orses(rail-ro|.e   was  l.iltcn    in  two   l.y  these  noelurnal 


visit  oi\s. 


i 


CHAPTER    XX VII. 


li 


T 


TlIK   SKTTLKMKNTS. 


Ill"]  next  (Imv  was  (.'Xtrcnu'lv  liol,  and  wo  rode  IVom 
iiioi'iiiiiu"  <ill  nijrlit  without  scciiiu:  u  troc,  ti  Imsli,  or 
a  drop  of  Wiitcr.  Our  liorsrs  and  nudes  surifcd  nuii-li 
more  tlian  we.  luit  as  sunset  ajiid'oaclicd,  tlicy  |)rick('d  up 
ilu'ir  cars  aud  mended  their  paeo.  Watei-  was  n(»t  I'ar 
oil'.  When  we  eanie  to  the  descent  of  the  liroad  shallow 
valley  where  it  lay.  an  nidooked-i'oi-  siuht  awaiteil  us. 
The  stream  glistened  at  the  bottom,  and  alonu'  its  liaid<s 
were  pitehod  a  nudtitud(3  ol'  tents,  while  hundreds  of  cat- 
tle were  I'eedini:;  over  the'  meadows.  I^odies  ol"  ti'oops, 
both  horse  and  foot,  and  lunj^  trains  of  wauons,  with  men, 
women,  and  children,  were  moving  over  the  opposite  ridge 
and  descending:  the  broad  declivity  bel'ore  us.  These;  were 
the  Mormon  battalion  in  the  service  of  government,  to- 
gether with  a  consideral)le  immber  of  Missouri  Vohni- 
teers.  The  Mormons  were  to  be  paid  off  in  California, 
and  they  were  allowed  to  bring  with  them  their  families 
and  i)roperty.  There  was  something  very  striking  in  the 
half-military,  half-patriarchal  ajtjtearance  of  tliese  armed 
fanatics,  tluis  on  their  way  with  their  wives  and  eliildren, 
to  found,  it  miglit  be,  a  Mormon  em)>ire  in  California. 
"NVe  were  nuich  more  astonished  than  pleased  at  tlie  sight 
before  us.  In  order  to  find  an  unoccupied  cam]»ing- 
ground,  we  were  obliged  to  pass  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up 
the   stream,  and  here  we  were  soon  beset  by  a  swarm  of 


li!' 


Tin;  sktti,i:mknts. 


Mormnns  Mild   Ml.'Soui'iaiiM.     Tlir  ^^lit^ll  Stales  nlViccr  in 

COllllllMlnl  'if  llir    \\l|(il«'  CIIIIM'  ulso  to  visit    IIS.illKl    rciiiiiiiUMl 

sotiK-  tiiiir  !it  our  ('aiii|). 

Ill  llic  inuriiiiiu'  tlir  cinintry  wns  ('((vcrcil  witli  mist. 
We  uriT  iilwiiys  ciirly  fiscrs,  l)iit  iM-forc  we  wri-c  rriidy, 
till'  Nuiccs  i)['  iiK'ii  (li'iviii^'  ill  the  ciittlf  sdimilcd  nil  tu-oMiid 
us.  As  we  passed  idiovc  their  ciiiMp,  we  siiw  tlinmnh  tluj 
oltsciirily  that  tlic  tents  were  I'aliiiiu',  and  tlie  iaiil<s  ra|>- 
idly  I'oiiniii'j  ;  and.  niin,i!;le(|  with  the  cries  of  women  and 
ehildicii.  the  roliim:'  of  tlie  Mormon  drums  and  t'.ie  (dear 
hhist  of  tlieir  trnmiiets  s(ninded  throiiirh  the  mist. 

From   tliat    time    to   the   ionrnev\s  end,  we  met  ahnost 


cverv  dav   lorn:' trains  oi   u'ctvornment  wa'jons. 


lad 


en  w 


ith 


stores  ini'  the  troops,  crawling  at   a  snail's  jiace   towards 
Santa  I'V. 

Tete  l{oup'  had  a  mortal  anti|)athy  to  dan^^'r.  lint  one 
cvoninti"  he  achieved  an  adventure  more  perilous  than  liad 
helallen  any  man  in  the  party.  'I'he  day  alter  we  left  tho 
l?idp'-|iatli  we  encamped  close  to  the  river,  and  at  sunset 
saw  a  t  rain  of  wau'ons  encampinn'  on  the  trail,  ahoiit  threo 
miles  oil'.  Thoniih  we  saw  them  distinctly,  our  little  cart, 
as  it  afterward  pro\«'(l,  entindy  csiiajiod  their  notice.  F()r 
some  days  'I'cte  Uonge  had  hecn  lonu'ing  for  a  dram  of 
whiskey.  So,  resolving  to  inij)rovc  the  present  oppor- 
tunity, he  mounted  his  horse  "  .James,"  whiidi  he  had  oli- 
tained  from  the  volunteers  in  exchange  for  his  muh;,slimg 
his  canteen  oNt-r  his  shoulder,  and  set  out  in  search  of  his 
favorite  liipior.  Some  hours  passed  without  his  returning. 
"We  thought  that  he  was  lost,  or  perhaps  that  some  stray 
Indian  had  snaj»pe(l  him  up.  While  the  rest  fell  asleep  I 
remained  on  guard.  Late  at  night  a  trenudous  voico 
saluted  me  from  the  darkness,  and  Tete  Rouge  and  James 
soon  hecame  visihle,  advancing  towards  the  camp.  'JYde 
Rouge  was  in  nmch  agitation  and  hig  with  imj)ortant  tid- 


i 


i. 


IS 


374 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


ii 


ill 


iiiL^s.  Silfintr  down  on  tlic  sliaft  of  the  cart,  he  told  the 
roUow'nijLi'  story  :  — 

When  lio  U'l't  tlic  cnmp  lie  had  no  idoa,  ho  said,  liow 
late  it  was.  V>y  tlie  time  he  approached  tlie  wagoners  it 
was  jierl'ectly  dark  ;  and  as  lie  saw  them  all  sitting  aronnd 
their  fires  within  the  circle  of  wagons,  their  guns  laid  by 
thcii-  sides,  he  thought  he  might  as  well  give  warning  of 
his  approach,  in  order  to  jtrcvent  a  disagreeahle  mistake. 
J^iising  his  voice  to  the  highest  piteli,  he  screamed  out  in 
[)roloiiged  accents,  "  c<()np  ah"//  !  "  This  eccentric  saluta- 
tion produced  anv  thinLi:  lait  tlie  desired  effect.  Ilearinti; 
such  hitleous  sounds  proceiMling  from  the  outer  darkness, 
the  wagoners  thought  that  tlie  whole  Pawnee  nation  were 
upon  tliem.  Uj)  they  sprang,  wild  with  terror.  Each  man 
snatched  his  gun;  some  stood  1)eliind  tlu^vagons ;  some 
threw  tliems(dves  flat  on  the  ground,  and  in  an  instant 
twenty  cocked  niuskets  were  levelled  full  at  the  liorrified 
Tete  Rouge,  who  just  then  began  to  be  visible  through 
the  gloom. 

'"  Thar  they  come,"  cried  the  master  wagoner;  "fire, 
fire,  shoot  that  leller." 

"•  No,  no  I "  screamed  Tete  Rouge,  in  an  ecstasy  of 
fright;  "don't  fire,  don't ;  Fm  a  friend,  I'm  an  Ameri- 
can citi/en  !  " 

"  You're  a  friend,  be  you,"  cried  a  gruff  voice  from 
the  wagons  ;  ''  then  what  arc  you  yellin'  out  thar  for 
like  a  wild  Injun.     Come  along  up  here  if  you're  a  man." 

'•  Keep  your  guns  ]>'inted  at  him,"  added  the  master 
waii'oner,  ^  mavbe  he's  a  decov,  like." 

Tete  Rouge  in  utter  bewilderment  made  his  approach, 
with  the  gaping  muzzles  of  the  muskets  still  before  his 
eyes,  lie  succeeded  at  last  in  explaining  his  true  charac- 
ter, and  the  Missonrians  admitted  him  into  camp.  He  got 
no   whiskey  ;  but  as  he  represented  himself  as  a  great 


THE    SETTLEMENTS. 


37a 


invalid,  niid  surU'riiiLi-  nnicli   from  coarse  faro,  tl 


lev 


ina(l( 


up  a  (•oulrihiition  for  him  of  rice,  lii.scuil,  and  siiuar  fi 
their 


oni 


own  rations. 
In   the   niornino-  ut   hreakfast.  Tet(>   TJ 


oiiti(^  oiiee  more 


related  this  storv.     We  hai-div  knew  1 


low  nnicji  of  it  t 


o 


helieve.  thongh  after  some  cross-(jnestionin,u-  we  failed 
to  discover  any  flaw  in  the  nai-rative.  Passiun-  hy  the 
wa<i-oner's  cam}),  they  confirmed  Tcte  Route's  ai.-couiit  in 
every  j>articular. 

''1  wouldn't  have  hen  in  that  feller's  place."  said  one 
f  them,  "  for  the  hig-uvst  heap  of  money  in  Missouri." 

A  day  or  two  after,  we  had  an  adventure  of  another 
sort   with   a   party   of  wag'oners.      lienrv  and  I  rode  Ibr- 


0 


lere  was  no   oiol 


n\ 


ward  to  hunt.     After  that   day  tl 
that   we  should   meet   with  huffalo,  and 
to   kill   one,  foi'   a  supply  of  fresh  meat.     'I'l 
wild  that  we  hunted  all  the  mornintz'  in  vain,  hut  at 

1 


l.ilit 


y 


we  were  anxious 


lev   were    so 


noon 


■^aw  a  laru'c  hand  leedinu: 


rees 


w 


as  we  approai'hed  Cow  Creek  we 

near  its  margin.  Cow  Creek  is  densely  lined  with  t 
which  intercept  the  view  heyond,  and  it  runs,  as  we  after- 
ards  found,  at  the  hottom  of  a  deep  trench.  We  a]*- 
jtroached  hy  ridinti-  alonu'  the  hottom  of  a  ravine.  W 
we  were  near  enough,!  held  the  horses  while  IJenrv  crept 
towards  the  bnffiilo.  1  saw  him  take  his  seat  within 
shooting-  distance,  ])repare  his .  rifle,  and  1 
select  his  victim.     The  death 


len 


oi 


ook    ahont    to 
a  fat  cow  seemed  certain, 


wiien   suddenly  a   great   smoke   and  a   rattling   vollev  of 
musketry  rose  from  the  hed  of  the  creek.    A  score 


'  oi  long. 
Vi'vs  and 


legged  Missourians  leaped  out  from  among  the  t 

ran  after  the  huffalo.  who  one  and  all  took  to  their  hceh 


and 


vanished.  These  fellows  had  crawleil  up  the  l)ed  of 
the  creek  to  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  game.  Never 
was  there  a  fairer  chance  for  a  sIk/i.  They  were  good 
marksmen  ;  all   cracked   awav  at   once  and  vet  not  a  hnf- 


i 


i 


m 

•i 
m 

ij 

■'1 

m 


Il 


*N 


370 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


i 


=  •'1 


fulo  fell.  Til  fact  ilic  animal  is  so  tenacious  of  \\{\)  tliai  it 
requires  no  litlle  knowledge  of  anatomy  to  kill  it.  and  it 
is  vciy  seldom  lliat  a  novice  succeeds  in  his  first  attempt 
at  a|)])i'()aching.  The  l»alked  Missourians  were  excessively 
moitilied.  V  ,)ecially  when  Henry  told  them  that  if  tliey 
had  kei»t  (piiet  he  wcndd  have  killed  meat  enough  in  ten 
minutes  to  {'val  their  whole  party.  Our  friends,  who  weie 
at  no  ureal  dista,nce,  hearinu;  the  fusillade,  thought  that 
the  Indians  had  lired  the  volley  for  our  beneli^  Shaw 
canu!  ualloitini::  on  to  reconnoitre  and  learn  if  we  were 
yet  amont!'  the  living. 

At  Cow  ('re<>k  we  found  the  welcome  novelty  of  ripe 
grapes  and  plums,  which  grew  there  in  abundance.  At 
the  Little  Arkansas,  not  much  farther  on,  we  saw  the  last 
buffalo,  a  miserable  old  bull,  roaming  over  the  prairie 
melan(dioly  and  alone. 

From  this  time  forward  the  character  of  the  country 
was  /.'hanging  every  day.  AVe  h.ad  left  behind  us  the 
great  arid  deserts,  meagerlv  covered  l)vthe  tufted  buffalo- 
grass,  with  its  jiale  green  hue,  and  its  short  shrivelled 
hlades.  The  ]»lains  before  us  were  carpeted  with  rich 
herbage  sprinkled  with  flowers.  In  place  of  bufiiilo  wc 
found  plenty  of  ])rairie-hens,  and  bagged  them  by  dozens 
without  leaving  the  trail.  In  three  or  four  days  wc  saw 
before  us  the  forests  and  meadows  of  Council  (irovc.  It 
seemed  like  a  new  sensation  as  we  rode  l)eneath  the  re- 
sounding andies  of  these  noble  woods, —  ash,  oak,  elm, 
ma|)le.  and  hickory,  festooned  with  enormous  grape-vines, 
])ur[)le  with  fruit.  The  shouts  of  our  scattered  party,  and 
now  and  then  the  rejmrt  of  a  ride,  rang  through  the 
breathless  stillness  of  the  forest.  We  rode  out  again  with 
regret  into  the  broad  light  of  the  o|)en  prairie.  Little 
more  than  a  hundred  miles  now  separated  us  from  the 
f'-'^ntier  settlements.     The  whole  intervening  country  was 


THE    S  E'lTL  EM  E  N  TS . 


:377 


a  succession  of  <rro(Mi  pi'aii-ics,  risinu;  in  ]»r(xi(l  swells  and 
relievcil  liv  trees  clusterin*>'  like  an  oasis  around  some 
sprinsr.  or  InlloAvinf;;  the  course  of  a  sti-eani  along'  some 
fertile  hollow.  These  are  Ihe  inairies  of  the  poe*  and 
the  novelist.  We  had  left  danu'er  hchind  us.  XothinijC 
was  to  lie  I'carcd  from  Ihe  Indians  of  this  i-eti'ion,  th(.'  Sacs 
and  Foxes.  Kaiizas  and  ()sau'<'s.  We  had  met  with  rare 
good  I'oi'tuiH'.  Although  for  livt>  months  we  had  l)een 
travelling  with  an  insulTicient  forci,'  througli  a  country 
where  we  were  at  any  moment  liahle  to  depredation,  iu)t 
a  single  animal  harl  heen  stolen  from  us,  and  our  only 
loss  had  l»een  one  ohl  mule  hitlen  to  death  hy  a  rattle- 
snake. Thi'ee  weeks  after  we  ]vache(l  the  IVontier.  the 
Pawnees  and  the  Camanches  l)egan  a  r(\gular  series  of 
hostilities  on  the  Arkansas  trail,  killing  men  and  di'iving 
oft'  horses.  They  attacked,  with(jut  cxcejjtion,  every 
party,  large  or  small,  that  passed  during  the  next  six 
months. 

Diamond  Spring,  Rock  Creek.  Elder  Oi'ove,  and  other 
'camping  places  hcsides,  were  passed  in  ipiick  succi'ssion. 
At  Rock  Creek  we  I'omid  a  train  of  government  ])rovision- 
wagons  under  the  charge  of  an  emaciated  old  man  in  his 
seventv-drst  vear.  Some  restless  American  devil  luxd 
driven  him  into  the  wilderness  at  a  time  of  life  when 
he  should  have  heen  seated  at  his  fireside  with  his 
grandchildren  on  his  knees.  I  am  convinced  that  he 
never  returned  :  he  was  complaining  that  night  of  a 
disease,  the  wasting  effects  of  which  upon  a  younger 
and  stronger  man.  I  myself  had  proved  tVom  sevei'C  ex- 
])erience.  Long  hefore  this  no  douht  the  woh'cs  luive 
howled  their  moonlight  carnival  over  the  old  man's  at- 
temiated  remains. 

Not  long  after  we  came  to  a  small  trail  leading  to  Fort 
Leavenworth,  distant  hut  one  day's  journey.     Tcte  R(jng'3 


m  '" 


11 


:  IS 


'I 


It 


.378 


THE    OREGON    TRAIL. 


ii'i:! 


e 
^ 


lici'o  took  loavc  of  us.  He  was  anxious  to  <j:o  to  tlic  fort 
ill  oi'dcr  to  receive  payment  Ibr  his  valuable  military  ser- 
vices. So  he  and  his  horse  James,  after  an  affectionate 
farewell,  set  out  togctlier,  Avith  what  ])rovisions  they  couUl 
convenient Iv  carrv,  includinu'  a  laruc  \inantitv  of  brown 
sugai'.  On  a  cheerless  rainy  evening  we  came  to  onr  lust 
'camping  uround. 

In  tlic  morning  we  mounted  once   more.     In   spite  of 
the  drearv  rain  of  vesterdav.  thei'c  never  was  a  briuiiter 

c  •/  *• 

autumnal  morning  than  that  on  which  we  returned  to  the 
settlements.  We  were  i)assinu'  throuuh  the  country  of 
the  hair-'ivili/ed  Shawanoes.  It  was  a  beautiful  alterna- 
tion of  fertile  j)lains  and  groves  just  tinged  with  the  hues 
of  autunm,  while  close  beneath  them  nestled  the  log- 
liouses  of  the  Indian  farmers.  Evcrv  held  and  meadow 
bespoke  the  exuberant:  fertility  of  the  soil.  The  maize 
stood  rustling  in  the  wind,  ripe  and  dry,  its  shining  yel- 
low ears  thrust  out  between  the  gajjing  husks.  S(piashes 
and  hnu'c  velli>w  ])un)i>kins  lav  liaskiim'  in  the  sun  in  the 
midst  of  their  V)rowii  and  shrivelled  leaves.  Robins  and 
blackl)irds  flew  about  the  fences,  and  every  thing  be- 
tokened our  near  approach  to  home  and  civilization.  The 
forests  that  border  the  Missouri  soon  rose  before  us,  and 
we  entered  the  wide  tract  of  bushes  which  forms  their 
outskirts.  We  had  passed  the  same  road  on  our  outward 
journey  in  the  spring,  lint  its  as})ect  was  now  totally 
changed.  The  young  wild  ai)i)le-trees.  then  flushed  with 
their  fragrant  blossoms,  were  hung  thickly  with  ruddy 
fruit.  Tall  grass  grew  by  the  roadside  in  place  of  tender 
shoots  just  ])ee}nng  from  the  warm  and  oozy  soil.  The 
vines  were  laden  with  purple  grapes,  and  the  slender 
twigs  of  tlie  swamp  majjle,  then  tasselled  with  their  clus- 
ters of  small  red  flowers,  now  hung  out  a  gorgeous  dis- 
iilav  of  leaves  stained  l»v  the  frost  with  burning  crimson. 


TIIF,    SETTLEMENTS. 


379 


On  fvory  side  wo  sawtolaMisor  niatui'ify  and  decay  wlicro 
all  had  licloi-c  Im'cii  frcsli  witli  opciiiiiu-  life.  AVc  entered 
tlio  forest,  e]ie(.'kered,  as  we  piissed  along.  l)y  the  Itright 
spots  of  sMiiliuht  that  Cell  l)(^tw(>en  the  oiK-ning  houulis. 
On  eithei-  side  I'icli  masses  of  Coliage  almost  extdiuh'd  the 
sun.  though  here  and  there  its  rays  could  Inid  their  wax- 
down,  striking  through  the  hroad  leaves  and  light inu" 
them  with  a  |)ure  transparent  green.  S(piirrels  I)arked 
at  us  from  the  trees:  coveys  of  youn^-  partridu'es  ran 
rustling  over  the  (alien  leaves,  and  the  golden  oriole,  the 
blue-Jay,  and  the  flaming  red-bird  darted  among  the  shail- 
owy  branches.  We  hailed  these  sights  and  sounds  of 
beauty  by  no  means  with  umningh-d  pleasure.  Many 
and  i)owcrful  as  were  the  attractions  of  the  settlements, 
Ave  looked  back  regretfully  to  the  wihh-rness  behind  us. 

At  length  we  saw  the  roof  of  a  white  man's  dwelling 
between  the  opening  trees.  A  lew  moments  after,  wo 
wore  riding  ov(>r  the  miseral)le  log-bridge  that  led  into 
Westport.  Westj)ort  had  beheld  strange  scones,  but  a 
rougher  looking  troop  than  oifrs,  with  our  worn  erpiip- 
monts  and  broken-down  horses,  was  never  seen  even 
there.  We  ])assed  the  well-remembered  tavern,  Boone's 
grocery,  and  old  Yogel's  drani-shop.  and  em-ampod  on  a 
meadow  beyond.  Here  we  were  soon  visited  by  a  number 
of  people  who  came  to  purchase  our  horses  and  e(|nip- 
ments.  This  matter  disposed  of.  we  hired  a  wagon  and 
drove  to  Kanzas  landing.  Here  we  were  again  received 
under  the  hos])itable  roof  of  our  old  IViend  Tolonel  Chick, 
and  seated  under  his  ])orcli  we  looked  down  once  more 
on  the  eddies  of  the  Missouri. 

Deslanriors  made  his  appearance  in  the  morning, 
strangely  transformed  by  a  hat,  a  coat,  and  a  ra/.or.  Ilis 
little  log-house  was  among  the  woods  not  far  oil".  It 
seems  lie  had  meditated  givi'ig  a  ball   in   honor  of  his 


r 


380 


THE    OIJIUION    TRAIL. 


r<'fnrn,  and  liad  ('onsullcd  Henry  ('lialillon,  ns  lo  wlicllicr 
it  wonld  do  to  invite  liis  /ti>iin/i'"is.  Henry  expressi'd  his 
entire  eonviclion  tliat  we  woidd  not  take;  it  iiiniss,  iind  tlie 
invitation  was  now  pi-olliM-ed  accordinuly,  Deslanriers 
addinu:  as  a  special  indneenient  tliat  Antoiiu^  Lajeunesso 
was  to  piiiv  the  li(hlle.  \V(!  tohl  him  we  wonhl  certainlv 
eonie,  Imt  heloi-e  evening  tlie  arrival  ol'  a  steanihoat  IVoni 
Fort  Leavenworth  ]>i'evented  onr  Ix'inj;'  present  at  the 
expected  lestivities.  Deslaniiers  was  on  the  rock  at  tl 
hindinu'-place,  waltinji,'  to  take  lenve  ol'  ns. 


le 


a 


Ad 


len  I   mes   l»onr<;"eois,  adien  .    adieu 


t  '1 


\c   ci'iei 


as 


the  hoat  jmt  oil';  '*  when  yon  u'o  another  time  to  do  Rocky 
Montatiiies  1  will  jj,-o  with  yon:  yes,  1  will  u'o  I  " 

lie  accompanied  (his  assurance  hy  jumpini;'  ahont, 
swinging'  his  hat.  ami  grinning  from  ear  to  e!ir.  As  the 
hoat  ronndetl  ;i  distant  point,  the  last  oKject  that  met  our 
eyes  was  |)eslaui'iers  still  lirting  his  hat  and  skipping 
ahout  the  rock.  We  had  taken  leave  of  Munroe  and  -Jim 
(Inrnev  at  Wostnort,  and  Ifeiirv  Chatillon  went  down  in 
the  hoat  with  ns. 


The  passage  to  St.  Louis  occupiiMl  eight  days,  duri 


nsr 


ahout  a  third  of  which  time  wi'  were  last  aground  on 
sand-hars.  We  ])assed  the  steamer  Anudia  crowded  with 
a  roaring  crew  of  dis))anded  vohniteers,  swearing,  drink- 
intr.  gamhliug,  and  litihting.     At  length  one  evening  we 


reached  the  crowded  levee  of  St.  lioui; 


Rei 


)airing  to 


the  Planters'  House,  we  caused  diligent  seandi  to  he  made 
for  our  trunks,  which  were  at  length  discovered  stowed 
awav  in  the  farthest  corner  of  the  store-room.  In  the 
morning,  transformed  hy  the  magic  of  the  tailor's  art, 
we  hardlv  reeoti;nizcd  each  other. 

On  the  evening  before  our  departure,  ITenry  Chatillon 
came  to  our  rooms  at  the  Planters'  House  to  take  leave 
of  us.     No  one  who  met  him  in  the  streets  of  St.  Louis 


Tin-:  si;ttli:mi;nts. 


381 


would  liavc  (iila-n  liiin  foi-  n   Iniiilcr  (Vesli  IVoiu  tlic  Rocky 
Moiinliiins.      JIc  was  very  iieutly  and  simply  dressed  in  a 


sill 


t  ol"  dark  (doth;  lor  altlionnh  .since  his  sixteenth  year 
he   had    scarcely  hceii  for   a   month    to«iether   anion"-  tJio 


ihodes  of  men,  he  had  u  iiati 


ve  <>(iod   taste  which  al 


w 


ays 


led  him  to 

His    tall    athletic    liniire   with    its    easy  llexihle    motions 


jtay  ureal,  attention  to  his  personal  appearance. 


appeared  to  ad\  anla;i'e  in   his   present  divss  ;  and  his  lii 
lace,  though    roiijrhened    hy  a    thousand    sti 


ic 


at  all  out   of  kee|»inu'  with   it.     JJe   had  seised 


•  ruis,   was   not 
us  with  a 


fulclit 


y  and  zeal  hiyond  all  praise.      We  took  leave  of  1 


mil 


with  re.u-ret  ;  and  unless  his  chaiminn'  features,  as  he  shook 


us  hy  the   hand,  Itelied  him,  the  ieeli 


n^'  on  his   part  was 


no  less  than  on  ours.     Shaw  had  ^iven  him  a  horse  at 
Westport.     My   rilh;,  an   excellent  piece,  whicli   he   had 


always   heen    fond   of   usiii<i',    i 


is   now   in   his   hands,   and 


I)erhaps  at  this   moment   its    sharj)  voice    is  start  1 
echoes  of  the    Rocky  Mountains.      On   tl 


lUiJ 


tl 


le 


le   next  mornint'" 


we  l(!ft  town,  and  aft 


er  a  fortiiiuht  of  railroad 


s,  coaclies. 


and  steamhoats,  saw  once  more  the  familiar  features  of 
home. 


ii  1 


I 

i 


'S     H 


Cambridge:   Press  of  John  Wilson  &  Son. 


